Discussion Topic |
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Sep 27, 2011 - 12:21pm PT
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He also soloed a few longer routes like Direct North Buttress and Ho Chi Minh Trail, both on Middle Cathedral Rock. For the latter he noted on his scorecard that he might have “FA’ed a 4 or 5 pitch variation by accident”.
Honnold also had a day of “scrambling” on Astroman and The Rostrum, soloing the 5.12b Alien finish on the latter route.
I can see him soloing those 12+ and 13 finger cracks. He's a little guy and it's probably hand jams for him. (so why doesn't he free the nose?)
anyway, the DNB? Man, nobody has hands that small
Scary and proud, but you need grace to keep that level of thinness going, crack or face
Peace
Karl
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Sep 27, 2011 - 12:30pm PT
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He better keep a lower profile or he'll kidnapped by the military to be vivisected or at least charge on some covert ops.
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kendall capodice
Trad climber
Southern California
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Sep 27, 2011 - 12:44pm PT
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very impressive.
seems pretty humble too.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Sep 27, 2011 - 12:53pm PT
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"And the hits just keep on coming."
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Sep 27, 2011 - 12:57pm PT
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The Mystery Man came over
An' he said: "I'm outa-site!"
He said, for a nominal service charge,
I could reach nervonna t'nite
If I was ready, willing 'n able
To pay him his regular fee
He would drop all the rest of his pressing affairs
And devote His Attention to me
But I said . . .
Look here brother,
Who you jivin' with that Cosmik Debris?
(Now who you jivin' with that Cosmik Debris?)
Look here brother,
Don't you waste your time on me
The Mystery Man got nervous
An' he fidget around a bit
He reached in the pocket of his Mystery Robe
An' he whipped out a shaving kit
Now, I thought it was a razor
An' a can of foamin' goo
But he told me right then when the top popped open
There was nothin' his box won't do
With the oil of Afro-dytee
An' the dust of the Grand Wazoo
He said:
"You might not believe this, little fella, but it'll cure your Asthma too!"
An' I said . . .
Look here brother,
Who you jivin' with that Cosmik Debris?
(Now what kind of a geroo are you anyway?)
Look here brother,
Don't you waste your time on me
Don't waste yer time . . .
I've got troubles of my own, I said
An' you can't help me out
So take your meditations an' your preparations
An' ram it up yer snout
"BUT I GOT A KRISTL BOL!," he said
An' held it to the light
So I snatched it
All away from him
An' I showed him how to do it right
I wrapped a newspaper 'round my head
So I'd look like I was Deep
I said some Mumbo Jumbos then
An' told him he was goin' to sleep
I robbed his rings
An' pocket watch
An' everything else I found
I had that sucker hypnotized
He couldn't even make a sound
I proceeded to tell him his future then
As long as he was hanging around,
I said
"The price of meat has just gone up
An' yer ol' lady has just gone down . . . "
Look here brother,
Who you jivin' with that Cosmik Debris?
(Now is that a real poncho or is that a Sears poncho?)
Don't you know,
You could make more money as a butcher,
So don't you waste your time on me
(Don't waste it, don't waste your time on me . . . )
Ohm shonty, ohm shonty, ohm shonty-ohm
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2011 - 02:32pm PT
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.....
bump.
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katiebird
climber
yosemite
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Sep 27, 2011 - 02:51pm PT
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umm...Alex is not a little guy and he has man hands for sure.
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jfailing
Trad climber
Lone Pine
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Sep 27, 2011 - 03:01pm PT
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Yeah I was gonna say, I think homey probably has some sizable mitts... not little hands...
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Sep 27, 2011 - 03:02pm PT
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He supposedly met up with Dave Yerian to do the 30th Anniv. climb of Bachar-Yerian several weeks back in Tuolumne. He took Bachar's place in the lead position. Didn't hear the outcome but I'm sure it went smooth.
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Danholio
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Sep 27, 2011 - 03:05pm PT
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He's a little guy
Not true. By climbing standards, at almost 6 feet tall, few would consider him "little".
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Sep 27, 2011 - 03:16pm PT
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think it has not yet happen fluoride
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Sep 27, 2011 - 03:19pm PT
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Maybe little compared to this guy...ha ha...
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James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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Sep 27, 2011 - 03:53pm PT
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It's too bad about the whole fiasco with the sheep and the dildo.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Sep 27, 2011 - 04:56pm PT
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Anyone know when his 60 Minutes profile is going to air?
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Johnny K.
climber
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Sep 27, 2011 - 05:18pm PT
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Question...
Potter and Honnold are the only two to ever solo the alien roof?
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CrackAddict
Trad climber
Joshua Tree
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Sep 27, 2011 - 07:21pm PT
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Cosmic Debris is a thin crack, but a burly one with some rattly fingers. Impressive solo, as was Phoenix. Wonder how he got down?
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Gobi
Trad climber
Orange CA
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Sep 27, 2011 - 07:24pm PT
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I'm pretty sure they're the only two to have only soloed the Alien.
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S.Leeper
Sport climber
Pflugerville, Texas
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Sep 28, 2011 - 07:29pm PT
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he's not of this world!
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Sep 28, 2011 - 07:36pm PT
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Didn't Dean solo the Alien with a parachute? He calles it Free-base.
In no way am I trying to disrespect Dean, but Alex's accomplishment is much more impressive.
Alex is not a little man. He's at least 5'11" & has normal sized hands from what I've seen.
Yeah & how did he get down from Cosmic Debris?
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Scotty E
climber
AB- land of canuck rednecks
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Sep 28, 2011 - 07:59pm PT
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I heard a rumor that Dean free-based upper Freerider (from Heart maybe???). Anyone know the skinny?
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Gene
climber
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Sep 28, 2011 - 08:16pm PT
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Scotty E,
I heard a rumor that Dean free-based upper Freerider (from Heart maybe???). Anyone know the skinny?
Seems On the troll scale, I suspect your post falls into the 1.0 to 1.5 range.
Maybe Dean did do that, but why wouldn't he connect the upper part of Freerider (from the Heart on) with the much easier lower Free Blast portion?
I deleted my post because I sure as hell don't know one way or the other. I am continually amazed by what these guys do. Free solos at this level are beyond my imagination.
Cheers,
g
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Sep 28, 2011 - 08:38pm PT
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He truly is a remarkable climber and seems like a humble guy. I have to say, I worry about him crashing on one of these amazing feats. I remember feeling the invincibility of youth. As I got older life taught me some lessons. I only hope the best for the man.
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Scotty E
climber
AB- land of canuck rednecks
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Sep 28, 2011 - 08:42pm PT
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Freeblast isn't steep enough to deploy a chute in the event of a fall. Or so I was told...
But thanks anyway for knee-jerk skepticism. Nice talkin to ya.
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Gene
climber
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Sep 28, 2011 - 08:50pm PT
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knee-jerk skepticism.
Yep. That's me! TFPU.
g
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Johnny K.
climber
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Sep 28, 2011 - 08:59pm PT
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R&I :Was this one of your best climbing days?
Honnold:
It definitely wasn't one of my best days. I literally climbed 11 minutes the whole day. I warmed up on a bouldering traverse, then did Cosmic, which took like 4 minutes, and then did Heaven, which was about the same. So I mean it was pretty satisfying to do both routes, but it wasn't exactly a full day.
.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Sep 28, 2011 - 10:12pm PT
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I ran into him at the FaceLift on Wednesday night, I'd say he's really fit but not particularly small... cool dude, it will be fun to watch where he takes the sport.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Sep 28, 2011 - 10:19pm PT
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"Two rules for happy living:
"1. Be able to experience anything.
"2. Cause only those things which others are able to experience easily."
in other words, don't be a freak.
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Sep 28, 2011 - 10:37pm PT
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Witness this action man . . . should be an inspiration to each and every one. Transcending the current levels of self imposed human limitation . . . we can all achieve much more than we allow ourselves.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Sep 28, 2011 - 10:59pm PT
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and what an 11 minutes it was. Wow!
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Sep 28, 2011 - 11:01pm PT
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does doing extreme stuff make you happy,
that is the question,
or does it make you feel paranoid?
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Sep 28, 2011 - 11:05pm PT
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Doing extreme stuff makes us feel ALIVE!
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2011 - 12:21am PT
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and what an 11 minutes it was. Wow!
lulz
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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Sep 29, 2011 - 08:19am PT
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Amazing guy!
I often wonder what kind of state the sport will be 100-200 years from know-if we last that long.
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jfailing
Trad climber
Lone Pine
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Sep 29, 2011 - 09:33am PT
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I often wonder what kind of state the sport will be 100-200 years from know-if we last that long.
More than just popular climbs will end up being slick as porcelain. It's starting to happen already...
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Sep 29, 2011 - 10:14am PT
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in your hearts, where fear wishes to govern,
all those whom question Alex's pursuits,
patronize this won reality:
here is a man who is thriving at the upper threshold of his potential.
that is one of the most beautiful accomplishments that i'm aware of.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Sep 29, 2011 - 12:00pm PT
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Is soloing cracks a full number below your redpoint ability all that reckless?
Seems like reactions are more projection that anything.
Few here probably know that an occasional poster on this board soloed the first pitch of Cookie Monster, the Rostrum, Nabisco Wall, and the Beaver recently, to no fanfare whatsoever.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Sep 29, 2011 - 12:23pm PT
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rock climbers are fairly parochial.
cosmic debris and heaven are bold, technical routes. and anyone spending enough time in the death zone is pushing it. but we're talking about a gifted soloist who climbs 5.14 soloing four or five letter grades below his redpoint and several below his onsight level on the sort of terrain he really likes-- short thin cracks on perfect rock in perfect weather.
folks wringing their hands over this better try not to even think about what's happening in serious mountaineering.
the bit of honnold's practice that i find spooky is the bit that edges closest to alpinism, namely the big mixed solos where he's doing stuff like tethering a cam and pushing it ahead of him as he goes. that sort of divided attention is harder for me to grasp. and in the aac mag article, when he writes about using a PAS as a safety cord on some of the bigger solos, he makes it pretty clear that at the time he didn't understand that the thing wasn't actually functional for catching solo falls. of course, having one helps mentally, because it gives you an option of clipping or aiding a move or two if things turn ugly.
still, that sort of thing is the one that most impresses me, and it is the practice (aside from hoping a PAS would catch a fall) that will carry over into alpinism.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Sep 29, 2011 - 01:06pm PT
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Good points all, Kerwin! Yeah and keep hammering on what is actually going on in alpinism these days---everybody wants to have a cow about Alex's ventures on perfect granite but meanwhile "allow" the pure insanity of current cutting edge mountaineering.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 29, 2011 - 01:11pm PT
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everybody wants to have a cow about Alex's ventures on perfect granite but meanwhile "allow" the pure insanity of current cutting edge mountaineering.
Peter, wake up. It's a well-known fact that GOOD climbers don't climb in the mountains. I read that on Supertopo so it must be true.
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jstan
climber
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Sep 29, 2011 - 01:20pm PT
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Why do either of these pursuits fascinate us?
And why do we thus allow ourselves be made complicit?
We really do need to find out.
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MTucker
Ice climber
Arizona
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Sep 29, 2011 - 02:31pm PT
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ECIYAIs soloing cracks a full number below your redpoint ability all that reckless?
Seems like reactions are more projection that anything.
Few here probably know that an occasional poster on this board soloed the first pitch of Cookie Monster, the Rostrum, Nabisco Wall, and the Beaver recently, to no fanfare whatsoever.
Yep, soloing is dangerous. Ask the best of them. Bachar, Osman
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Sep 29, 2011 - 02:37pm PT
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Few here probably know that an occasional poster on this board soloed the first pitch of Cookie Monster, the Rostrum, Nabisco Wall, and the Beaver recently, to no fanfare whatsoever. Could you say his name?
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Sep 29, 2011 - 02:44pm PT
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It is also a well know fact that most alpine "climbers" tend to embellish their stories, while Alex's accomplishments are witnessed by many.
heh.
yeah, all those photoshopped pix of the rupal face. thing's light. no 13a on it anywhere.
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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Sep 29, 2011 - 03:01pm PT
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I'm thinking now as a grandfather.
It seems like I have mellowed out a great amount in the last 5 years. I soloed since 1966 and at least understand the drive to solo; and in all honesty it is quite a rush when done well, (the alternative isn't an option).
Alex is his own man, and obviously, front and center now. I know of a few other notable climbers, when in their youth some 30 years ago, were soloing up to 5.11, without much fanfare up here in New Hampshire. Only a few of the locals here in New Hampshire were even aware of it.
Now these guys are in their late 50's to early 60's and all have kids--not quite teenagers yet.
I look at the pictures of Alex and think of all these guys who made it into old age. I sincerely hope he makes it there too.
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YoungGun
Trad climber
North
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Sep 29, 2011 - 03:19pm PT
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here is a man who is thriving at the upper threshold of his potential.
that is one of the most beautiful accomplishments that i'm aware of.
Well said!!
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Gene
climber
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Sep 29, 2011 - 03:21pm PT
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I hear you steveA. I was just thinking how cool it would be for my future grandkids to meet an older Alex, complete with appropriate paunch and receding hairline, in Yeller Pines at Facelift XV and tip a beer with him. That would be fun.
g
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Sep 29, 2011 - 03:51pm PT
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I don't see why one can't be both impressed and awed by bold hard solos, and be concerned for the health and longevity of Honnold. Put me in that camp.
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Josh Nash
Social climber
riverbank ca
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Sep 29, 2011 - 04:21pm PT
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My noob two cents:
I was climbing a slab 5.9r a few weeks ago. I was completely comfortable leading the route. I brought up my second and we started talking about leading and following and how there really is no difference accept what's in your mind. Really I could have free soloed the route because I didn't take any falls.
I really don't think he's doing anything really dangerous. He knows his abilities. He knows what he can and can't do. If, God forbid, something horrible happens, it will be due to extenuating circumstances and not his inabilities.
I admire the guy for boiling climbing down to it's essence. It is just the human form moving up rock.
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Sep 29, 2011 - 04:47pm PT
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I really don't think he's doing anything really dangerous.
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Josh Nash
Social climber
riverbank ca
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Sep 29, 2011 - 04:54pm PT
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Let me qualify what I mean. Is it dangerous? Yes it is. Is it really dangerous? No. Really dangerous is free soloing with a thunderstorm overhead. Really dangerous is what's being done in the alpine arena. Free soloing a hard route on a beautiful day completely within your abilities is dangerous but not very dangerous.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Sep 29, 2011 - 05:29pm PT
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The 60 Minutes piece is airing this Sunday.
Ken
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Gene
climber
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Sep 29, 2011 - 05:40pm PT
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Who is the color commentator on that 60 Minutes tease?
Sounds very familiar.
g
EDIT: Largo?
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John Butler
Social climber
SLC, Utah
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Sep 29, 2011 - 05:53pm PT
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Who is the color commentator on that 60 Minutes tease?
Sounds very familiar.
JL, I think
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Gene
climber
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Sep 29, 2011 - 06:26pm PT
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Squishy,
I just watched the video you linked.
Damn! Thanks.
g
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Sep 29, 2011 - 06:48pm PT
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I watched Alex solo the Chouinard-Herbert from the Lodge annex parking area with some friends from the guide school. We had telescopes & binoculars & I was amazed at how casual he made it look. I did the C-H years ago & thought it too insecure for people to solo but I was wrong!
Good stuff! I got to make sure I DVR 60 minutes this Sunday!
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James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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Sep 29, 2011 - 07:02pm PT
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Not sure if someone mentioned it already but the 60 minutes thing is Sunday night
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gonzo chemist
climber
Crane Jackson's Fountain St. Theater
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Sep 29, 2011 - 09:40pm PT
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Largo made a great Zappa reference, "crux of the biscuit"
hahahaha, love it...
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Sep 29, 2011 - 10:11pm PT
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He isn't wearing a helmet.
Damnit, I am tired of people not wearing a helmet. Wear can I get one?
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Ben909
Trad climber
toronto
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Sep 29, 2011 - 10:12pm PT
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Josh, while you might be physically capable of climbing that 5.9r your mental state is necessary to reach that physical ability. You aren't necessarily capable of climbing that same route without the mental support afforded by the rope. Maybe you are. Most people aren't able to get past the mortal exposure of soloing all but the most pedestrian grades.
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
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Sep 30, 2011 - 12:09am PT
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But there's nothing that I'm really thinking about. I'm just doing it. - Alex Honnold
Sometimes when you are soloing, you have those moments of anxiety; when you are not totally sure what you have gotten yourself into
100% certainty that you aren't going to fall; that's what keeps you from falling.
It's hard to be completely focused and completely on your game for that long. Basically you can say that when I'm soloing I have some mental armor. You can say I'm in the zone. I have something protecting my head from thinking too much. For whatever reason, on Half Dome, I ran out of whatever armor I had.
I think doubt is the biggest danger in soloing.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Sep 30, 2011 - 02:30am PT
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My own experience with soloing over the years (definitely minimal by comparison) is that you either feel it or you don't - if you do, you just have the surreal sense you'll be fine (with the caveat here we're talking about people who are solid versus shaking their way through a solo - always horrifying...).
Beyond that, from an objective perspective, I believe it's a matter of taking bigger risks, but in a highly constrained risk context. By that I mean after enough mileage and experience you basically can 'shrink' the overall scope of risk down to a manageable [mental / emotional] context and then, by having everything hyper-dialed you can just let go and climb, yet still interject some occasional foreground oversight when necessary.
We can speculate all we want about what has happened in the past, and what the future odds are; but I'm guessing a car accident, cancer, old age, or a big wave all have about even odds with soloing a big wall once you're in that zone.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Sep 30, 2011 - 02:34am PT
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My own experience with soloing over the years (definitely minimal by comparison) is that you either feel it or you don't - if you do, you just have the surreal sense you'll be fine (with the caveat here we're talking about people who are solid versus shaking their way through a solo - always horrifying...).
yup. well said.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 30, 2011 - 02:34am PT
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For what it's worth, I think it silly to try to gauge the achievements of a new generation with the limited perception of an older perspective.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Sep 30, 2011 - 02:37am PT
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as far as I can tell, most soloists die soloing, so I suspect this guy will too
soloing feels secure until that instant where, unexpectedly, you're off
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 30, 2011 - 03:17am PT
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"Between Nothingness and Eternity"
I say go young Honnold, follow your heart. It is easy to criticize his achievements but difficult to understand his motivation. Let him go.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Sep 30, 2011 - 03:26am PT
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most soloists die soloing Derek set the bar high in that category for sure, but Reardon and Dano seem to get wrongly hodge-podged into the same list somehow(?) and we will never know why Bachar fell, but if you compared fatalities in roped climbing with soloing - soloing would come out as way safer I'm sure. It's like car accidents versus plane accidents - there are fewer plane wrecks, but when it happens it's more ugly, catastrophic, and newsworthy.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Sep 30, 2011 - 03:36am PT
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Soloing on good rock at a level you feel comfortable with is probably safer than high altitude mountaineering on trade routes. We're all going to go sometime, many of us for stupid reasons like car crashes or cancer. I think you have to respect people's decisions about how they want to live their lives.
Anybody want more opinions, I have tons of others to share. :-)
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Sep 30, 2011 - 10:10am PT
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as far as I can tell, most soloists die soloing
You must not hang out in the valley too much!
Perhaps some rephrasing is in order...
I think it might be reasonable to say that many or some soloists who solo 5.13 or harder die soloing, but there is NO WAY you can back up your first statement with numbers...
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Sep 30, 2011 - 10:18am PT
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BIOTCH,
Over your lifetime a US resident (based on a 2005 study) has a 1 in 100 chance of dying in a car crash but a 1 in 20000 chance of dying in a plane crash.
kev
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Knuckles
Trad climber
Everett, Wa
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Sep 30, 2011 - 11:26am PT
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BIOTCH- It's semantics perhaps but it seems fair to lump Reardon, Osman and Bachar into the category of guys that died while pushing their envelope. I think they all knew they were playing with fire.
I also don't know how accurate your statement about fatalities in roped climbing vs. soloing is. If you stacked all the roped climbing days vs. the non-roped days you'd likely find a far higher percentage of people died soloing. That is absolutely not to say "most soloists die soloing". I think that's a false statement so on that we agree.
Maybe it was a wave that pulled Reardon off, maybe a broken hold did in Bachar. Regardless they put themselves in these situations repeatedly where there was no margin for error. I'm not complaining about them or Alex doing so or even receiving kudos for it. In fact I think it's amazing and deserves some respect, but I won't be really surprised to log on here one day and see that he died doing it.
A few people have commented as such but I don't see why people feel this intense need to convince other people to see their viewpoint. I think we can all agree that Alex is doing some very high level stuff. Some people think its the coolest thing ever, some people think it's a waste. Guess what? They're both right. Everyone is entitled to their opinion and in this case I don't think there's a "wrong" answer.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Sep 30, 2011 - 11:42am PT
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What is this propensity for people to think they have a right to tell people what to do with their lives?
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cleo
Social climber
Berkeley, CA
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Sep 30, 2011 - 11:58am PT
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Wow, that video on Honnold on Moonlight Buttress is simultaneously beautiful and terrifying. And he's so calm, it's amazing, even joking around.
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gonzo chemist
climber
Crane Jackson's Fountain St. Theater
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Sep 30, 2011 - 12:00pm PT
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Knuckles,
Reardon did NOT die while soloing, and Osman did NOT die while soloing. Those facts seem pertinent to the discussion.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Sep 30, 2011 - 12:03pm PT
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I think it silly to try to gauge the achievements of a new generation with the limited perception of an older perspective.
I think you said that all wrong.
A different perspective is not a limited perspective, especially one born of experience. It is often the young who have the limited perspective.
I too try to identify with the young. But there are saggy ballz around here who try to pretend that they ARE young.
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Gene
climber
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Sep 30, 2011 - 12:28pm PT
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I also heard he is heavy into ABBA.
I was fine about Alex until I read that. Now I fear for him.
g
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Knuckles
Trad climber
Everett, Wa
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Sep 30, 2011 - 12:30pm PT
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Gonzo
You're right. I did go off the original speculation that Reardon was pulled off technical rock rather than flat rock at the base. In the end it doesn't really matter.
All I said beyond that was that they died while pushing their envelope. I think that's a fair statement in each case. Whether it's your fault or Mother Nature's you're still dead and your Mom and loved ones don't care exactly how or why.
You or I might have thought twice and then three times about going that near to the rough seas as Reardon did. I think in his case it was about perception of risk. in that situation one is essentially soloing, even when walking on flat ground. It's wet, slippery rock and there are big waves. Obviously some are bigger than others and that's what got him. The point was he chose to accept the danger that one thing going wrong, whether it's in his control or not might do him in.
For Osman he chose to remove his skill entirely from the equation. Taking that leap takes balls for sure but not skill apart from the rigging involved. He's totally reliant on gear but the total reliance on one thing has the same consequences and limited margin of error as soloing.
Ironically though it could be considered the exact opposite of soloing. He's not relying on himself at all. It seems a common theme amongst soloists is this feeling of being entirely responsible for everything and the hyper awareness that comes from that.
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jstan
climber
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Sep 30, 2011 - 12:35pm PT
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I listened to ABBA for the first time a couple weeks ago. You know what they are? Peter Paul and Mary - with two Marys. Perfectly matched voices. They also choreographed their movements, something Lady Gaga has picked up; but that is a minor point.
The sea off Ireland has very occasional monster waves that are basically solitons. A low probability phenomenon.
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Knuckles
Trad climber
Everett, Wa
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Sep 30, 2011 - 12:45pm PT
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Again I think it's amazing what some of these guys and Alex in particular are doing. Alex even seems to have an humble attitude and respect about it. I think many who meet him and spend time with him would be surprised to find out he does what he does. Some "extreme" guys are very obvious that they are "extreme".
My only gripe in the whole situation is the photoshoot afterwards. I get that these guys get paid for doing these shoots and it helps to advance their sport, career and sponsors but I remember watching Ueli Steck on the Eiger for the first time and feeling sick to my stomach. Not becasue I was afraid for him. Obviously he had sent at that point and was safe. I felt sick because he was re-enacting the ascent as Alex was in the link above. What happens when one of these guys dies for the cameras? I don't think it's wrong that they do it but I feel wrong when I watch it. It feels like the Faces of Death movies that some kid woould sneak in to the slumber party when you were 8. You'd watch two scenes and everyone would feel sick and want to go home.
Reardon died for the cameras. I'm not saying he was a glory hound or anything but the facts of the matter are he died during a photoshoot. I don't think he would've sought out wave-swept cliffside choss for a day of cragging otherwise. I guess I feel guilty that these guys can't just go out and do this stuff but that instead we as a society or culture want to see them doing it. Don't get me wrong. I've watched the Alex link more than once and the Steck on the Eiger was a daily view in our office for weeks. I just still feel dirty.
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Brian
climber
California
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Sep 30, 2011 - 12:59pm PT
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knuckles,
To say Mike died 'as a result of soloing' because a wave took him from a flat, non-technical rock at the base of his last climb is like saying someone who dies in a car crash in Fresno after soloing in Yosemite 'died as a result of soloing'. It's ridiculous. Mike's death was the result of very bad luck, and had nothing to do with his soloing.
Brian
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Sep 30, 2011 - 01:09pm PT
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Cleo: being that the movie is a re-do of the actual solo, he asked the camera crew if they wanted him to act like the route was hard. So, in actuality, Alex appears on screen less perfect than how he actually solos and is doing the business.
Ms55401: Very few soloists die actually soloing. I can only think of Bachar and Hersey---there are more of course but it just is not epidemic in that subset. Soloists of course die from tons of other causes: car crashes, large shorebreak, bungiejumping, broken harness and other equipment failures, suicide, old age & infirmity.
Coz: Go easy on Wayno, it seems he was just quoting his ole fav: Gone With The Wind. Don’t you think?
Pilgrims: what Alex will owe us more so every year is his accounts of these experiences. Being a bright and avid reader, hopefully he will be firing out some great tales in years hence and when he feels he has the perspective right.
For those of you that now are cowering in fear that Alex actually listens to Abba while knoshing with Stannard on Ladyfingers and apple juice and playing farmer with Johno's polypropylene vintage animal toy collection from the sixties, look below. This was the iPod playlist he showed us he had playing for his solo of Moonlight Buttress in 2008:
from: http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08x/rb-honnold-moonlight-playlist
(go to iTunes or similar to hear excerpts)
New Dark Ages Bad Religion
Humanoid Chevelle
F*#k Authority Pennywise
Can't Repeat Offspring
Something Wrong With Me Pennywise
Who's On Your Side Pennywise
Plug In Baby Muse
Sky Is Over Serj Tankian
I Get It Chevelle
Read My Mind The Killers
New Born Muse
The Fad Chevelle
Happy? Mudvayne
Forget To Remember Mudvayne
Tarantula Smashing Pumpkins
Falling Down Atreyu
A Single Second AFI
Empty Walls Serj Tankian
ATWA System Of A Down
He Who Laughs Last AFI
Chop Suey System Of A Down
Prayer Of The Refuge Rise Against
The Good Left Undone Rise Against
Fall Children AFI
Pushing Me Away Linkin Park
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 30, 2011 - 01:35pm PT
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Hey coz, I don't know you or Honnold so what I say really doesn't matter a bit. I could be all wrong. That's ok, this is just a forum. What I meant was that the youth have the luxury of building on the foundations that guys like you started. It's only natural that they should eclipse our standards.
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jstan
climber
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Sep 30, 2011 - 01:53pm PT
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playing farmer with Johno's polypropylene vintage animal toy collection from the sixties
My feelings are injured. My toys were all made of rubber and dated from the thirties. I tried that polypropylene stuff. Just did not work for me.
That an ipod is used at all is worrisome. Very. Technology is being used to override natural protective mechanisms.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 30, 2011 - 02:03pm PT
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I know nothing but that he looks happier in his pictures than you sound on this forum. I hope he finds what he is looking for. I hope you do too.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Sep 30, 2011 - 02:08pm PT
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Well, Johno, apparently you held back on Alex when he visited. But I do understand that your classic set of rubber sheep, cows, horses, pigs, and chickens have to be safely archived now and the poly stand-in set has been the norm chez Stannard for quite a few years now, everyone is saying. But heads-up here, J, as there is going to be a pop quiz on Alex’s iTunes list on Monday, so get listen’. You will find AH’s music tastes right up your alley.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Sep 30, 2011 - 03:26pm PT
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Peter,
Glad Alex isn't listening to ABBA - that's some mess up sh#t...
You know, Bluering was fine until he started with ABBA. It's the gateway band...
Thanks for setting us straight with his playlist!
kev
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 30, 2011 - 03:32pm PT
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I don't care what anyone says.
But if you're free soloing Half Dome, Heaven, Cosmic Debris, Phoenix, Moonlight buttress, etc etc.
You're fuking RAD !!!!!!!
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Dickbob
climber
Westminster Colorado
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Sep 30, 2011 - 03:59pm PT
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Hell yes! A life well lived if you ask me.
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rnevius
Sport climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Sep 30, 2011 - 04:02pm PT
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When will everyone realize that he's doing it for himself, not his sponsors, not for you, not for me, and not for the publicity?
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AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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Sep 30, 2011 - 04:06pm PT
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I don't care what anyone says.
But if you're free soloing Half Dome, Heaven, Cosmic Debris, Phoenix, Moonlight buttress, etc etc.
You're fuking RAD !!!!!!!
Word!!!! Alex is rad….. for me the sad part is the only way I could climb these is with aiders.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Sep 30, 2011 - 04:30pm PT
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Agreed, rnevius. Good question and exhortation!
Hard to understand that anyone would be lead to believe Alex or any other top climber could pull off these achievements while considering what might be on next on the Gong Show, as Alex puts it. It just does not happen. Can't. You can only solo like this when the shiz is coming from way inside your art and power. Period.
edit more: If Alex was climbing from the surface, he would have already been on Freerider unroped; after all he is not the ONLY climber thinking of it and capable of firing it unroped. There is a bunch others and some Euros too. And whoever actually pulls it off.....yikes....will never ever be forgotten. So, if any of our soloists were that shallow, someone would have made the attempt already; who knows what would have happened.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Sep 30, 2011 - 04:45pm PT
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what werner said...
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Sep 30, 2011 - 04:55pm PT
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If you're free-soloing Reed's Direct with a boom box on your one good ear, you're freakin' rad.
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Gene
climber
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Sep 30, 2011 - 04:56pm PT
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If Alex was climbing from the surface, he would have already been on Freerider unroped
Although it certainly hasn't happened, wouldn't it be cool if Alex has aleady done FR? That would explain his constant grin.
g
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Sep 30, 2011 - 04:56pm PT
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Werner, You're rad too.
Ken
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Sep 30, 2011 - 11:14pm PT
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whatever alex ends up free soloing will be awesome to see. it gives me sheer delight to talk to alex about his solo of phoenix, and hear the details of this epic feat. his bifecta of cosmic and heaven in a day just lights up the sky with inspiration. so cool. i can't see how his motivation can be anything but soulfully internal and pure to free solo the things he does. and i'[m glad he has enough smarts to document the solos.
but i also think a lot about john bachar. his other mentors and i were pretty shattered to see him go like that. at a certain point, which i reached awhile ago, it might be time to back off the edgy stuff, and i hope alex and his destiny will see him through to a gray haired future.
i do think alex should keep his hard soloes to crack climbing that he can sink some digits into. when he admits in articles how close the half dome solo was(the 5.12 slab caused him big pause), i just think cranking on a crack would be better than slippery slope stuff.
and by the way, alex did show up to tow dave yerian up the bachar-yearian although i hear they did not finish the route because it got too hot in the sun.
ciao, shipoopoi
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Awesome pic.
Steve: very good observations.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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We spoke on the bridge yesterday.
"So what's new and exciting, Alex?"
"Nothin' really. You?"
"Not much."
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Ahhh what do a bunch of old farts know?
Coz getting onto Honnold for soloing for the correct "reasons" is just as stupid of a question as it was 30 years ago regarding Bachar.
Who cares what motivates someone else? These young turks can't take a piss without someone getting it on camera. Keeps them in free shoes. I feel sorry for them in that regard.
Sender films has a great piece on Honnold in "First Ascent." I was hanging out at a bud's and put it on. Blew my mind. There were a lot of cool things in that video.
He may die tomorrow or he may get run over walking across the street. Who knows when their number is up?
One thing about this place is that everyone is so ooooooolllllldddddd.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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That Moonlight Buttress footage made my feet sweat. The things he's doing are risky, but he seems well aware of that fact.
I have only gone ropeless a few times on some easy stuff, but I have ridden some pretty stupid stuff on my snowboard, some of which I might never repeat. The feeling one gets in that situation is amazing, the level of awareness and rush of adrenaline.
When one chooses to embrace doing such a thing usually they choose to accept the potential outcome. It's not a safe thing, but neither is crossing the road.
Do not try this at home!
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MTucker
Ice climber
Arizona
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COZ: How is climbing a route done in the late 70 or early 80 eclipsing anything, because he climbed it without a rope?
Sounds more like a stunt to me, than pushing any standards.
He should give me ring if he wants to risk his life and make money, he wouldn't be living in his van anymore, that's for sure.
I thought I was a big hater and try to bring peoples accomplishments down but COZ is a big hater too. No wait. Coz is jealous.
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Mike Libecki
climber
the moment of now
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If you mock Honnold you are mocking yourself.
He not only deserves respect and admiration, he has earned it.
You cannot train to do what he does, he is a super human and an absolute inspiration for all of us to climb our best, or to just live life to the fullest in any aspect.
Bowing down to Alex and so psyched to receive his inspiration.
So f&%#ing rad.
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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nice post steve
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Rocky5000
Trad climber
Falls Church, VA
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I’m with Werner – Alex is maximally rad and there is little point in criticizing him. Fear of death is innate to all of us, and it is not something we can remove from our psyche, but through various practices we can sometimes achieve a functional mastery over it. Free soloing is one of these practices. I used to do it semi-regularly for a decade or so, and my experience was exactly as he describes it: first, a total confidence in one’s ability, and knowing the level of it; second, climbing good rock (mostly) in good weather, on routes somewhat below one’s top redpoint level (mine was and is considerably lower than his, but the experience is the same); third, while soloing, disallowing doubt and the exposure from affecting your state of mind. It has to do with being for a while a single-minded person, with very little self-consciousness, and yet fully functional – a weird mode of existence. The attraction of this feeling of mastery is hard to convey. I would walk back to the base afterwards and look up for a while. I would feel that my life is absolutely real, and that the world has true and irreducible beauty, and I’m part of it, for now.
One day I came to a high, fatal crux and my nerve began to crack a little. I waited at a rest for quite a while, knowing I did not want to try downclimbing; eventually I felt stronger and climbed through. But after that I knew it was time to scale it back, taper it off, and live a bit less close to the bone. There’s no dishonor in that. What percentage of soloists die climbing? No way to know – I suspect there may be many like me, who did it utterly alone and without ever telling anyone, because it is so close to the bone. To do it for reasons of ego could be fatal.
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Texplorer
Trad climber
Sacramento
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Eloquent said Rocky.
Much like a Michael Jordon, Haile Gebrselasse, or Pele sometimes an athlete comes along that shines far above anyone else and can perform at a level that even world class athletes revel. Interestingly these people are often not the very best at any one aspect of their respective sports but somehow have the innate ability to put it all together in a unique and spectacular way.
Honnold is a brilliant star. I hope he doesn't burn out too soon but even if he does it cannot change what he is. I feel that for me climbing symbolizes something beyond pulling down on rocks. There is something about it that transcends sheer physical effort. For me, Honnold captures all that I hunger for in climbing. I hope to hear about his ascents for years to come but even if something were to happen to him tomorrow I would have gained greatly from knowing that such a person exists. I feel shivers at the thought of what he is capable. It doesn't matter who films him, if he is paid, or who sponsors him, the end is what he does. To be a part of a community, lifestyle, and world where such people exist is inspiring enough for me.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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DY trained hard for this climb. No way did Dave want to get towed up. Honnold honored his commitment to be there and make it happen. My take, wish I would have helped more in the planning process. Often details can make or break something.....which I learned a little late. Jess sayin',lynne
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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i feel bad, i syphoned
can you please forgive me?
you like Ratt Round and Round anybnody
alex, you want to climb 1000 feet of free solo sandstone,
aquarian valley, only i know the route
call me 530 514 1717
i am after all, dr sprock,
best free climber in the frickin world,
except alex, and bacher, and all the other freaks
ill give you 1 million dollars (inflation)
if you can follow me for one minute (inflation)
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