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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 14, 2011 - 06:15pm PT
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The 1st of Febuary was just another Beautiful Day in Joshua Tree. I had moved down there from the Valley to spend another Winter in one of my favorite places. I needed to be close to L.A. while I worked on another Book with JL so I got a place in Town and quickly settled in.
My first Roped and Unroped Climbs were done here 40years ago, I love to Boulder and Solo, I've always felt safe and in control in the Desert and this seaon was shaping up to be a good one. I'd been working out quite a bit and felt strong and confindent, the easy stuff just seemed sooo damn fun, so familiar, like an old Friend.
There was to many people around to Solo the Bomber HandCrack that I had intended, so I wandered off and found an easy Climb that I had Soloed twice before this season. I slipped on my Dancing Shoes and started off, a quick mantel and I was at the begining of the Crack. I felt Strong and present, grabbed a hand jam and worked my left foot into the crack.
I reached up for the next jam and realized that this is where the LieBack began, time for a quick dip into my chalkbag, f*#k I'm outta Chalk!! The voice in my head says DOWN CLIMB NOW!!! the voice between my legs says SACK UP!!!! I make another move and stuff my left foot into the crack, one more move and it's a Jug, I put my right foot on a big hold and begin to stand up like a StoneMaster.
SH#T!!! I'm FALLING, I push off with my left arm and look down at the Landing,(I'm Rocketing 20+ into a Rocky Gulley) BANG, i hit the deck and roll it off, I'm ALIVE. . .The Voice in my Head says don't move, This time I listen.
I'm laying still, my hands running up and down my body, checking for damage, my head, no blood, no pain, seems to be okay, my back, doesn't hurt, my legs, scraped but okay, my left foot, good to go, my right foot, sh#t, sh#t, sh#t. Okay, stay Calm, Focus, wiggle your toes, they work, try the Ankle, no go, f*#k me, Time to crawl home. . .
I make it back to my Cave and get on the Phone to Friends, they respond and stop by the Thrift Shop for Crutches, Samms for ice and ibuprofen. My mind (or whats left of it) is racing, no Health Ins and $100Us in the Bank, my Ankle is Swelling and turning Black&Blue. The Denial setts in faster than the Swelling, "dude it's just a bad Sprain, yes you probally have some torn Ligiments and Tendons, they'll heal up things will be okay" but things weren't okay and they still aren't.
I'm working on this Book, I'm about to start on a New Calendar in a couple of Months, so I stay off the Foot, I ice it, I rubb all kinds of good Herbs into it, I wrap it with a Brace, I eat ibuprofen like candy and after one week I can walk again, well it's more like a very painful limp. I wake up in a Cold Sweat at Night Shaking and telling myself It Will Okay, but it isn't. For the first time in my life I am truly deeply afraid.
Two months later it seems to be Healing, still walking with pain and can't even think about Climbing but I'm sure things are getting better. I begin a long roadtrip making StoneNudes, every step brings me pain, every Photo I make is a reminder of my personal agony, I drug myself into deeper denial and the fog rolls in. I finish the Calendar, now comes the wait for the money to come in, I promise myself that I'll see a Doctor asap when I have a coulpe of bucks for the XRays and office vists.
The money starts to come in, it's been over 6months since the Fall. I leave the Valley where I've been hiding out and go to my Mothers in Santa Cruz. The money is soon gone to XRays, Dr's vists, he doen't know whats wrong with my Ankle but the XRays "don't look right" they tell me to see a Specialist a very good Surgeon. At $300per visit the money is gone, but not before he tells me whats up with my Ankle. I broke a small piece of bone off at a Tendon attachment, he said it's like having a broken tooth rolling around in my Ankle.
"I can go in there and take out the chip, you'll be Climbing again in no time" He needs an MRI to see things better. I'm flat broke and beached at Moms. I apply for MediCal, denied, I try MediCruz, denied, I try again, denied, one last time, and lo and behold, as I truly have no money I'm Approved!!!!yes!!!
I make the appointment for the Dr to read my MRI, I'm so happy I almost (wish I could) run to his office. I'm going to be healed, I want to shout it out, I stuck it!!!yea baby. But no, no i didn't stick it, when he looks at the MRI I can see his face, it's not good, not at all. He turns to me, "I'm sorry but you have a Severe Case of Arthritis in the Ankle and it has degraded the Joint, it's quite comom with this injury, the best that I can do for you is to Fuse your Ankle, your Climbing years are over"
I limp home, I want to cry, but I don't, not now, the time for that is past. I have some hard choices to make and I will make them sober and present. I know a few Climbers with Fused Ankles, they Climb a lot harder than me, I will Climb/Dance again.
I've been watching T.V. quite a lot, saw the Repub Debates and was sickened by the crowds reaction to the Question of an uninsured man in a coma, should he be Left to Die? a cheer went up and I felt like throwing up. Nobody deserves that.
I guess what I want to say here is if you hurt yourself and do not have insurence, crawl to an ER and have them fix you, don't be afraid. Yes they will hound you for money for the rest of your life, but at least you'll have a life. And maybe, if you're lucky you'll have a sexy limp, like me. . .Be Safe my Friends and I hope to Solo past you soon, this time going up. . .df
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Sep 14, 2011 - 06:24pm PT
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grim story, good you had yr friends and family to give some support.
best of luck with the fusion
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Fish Finder
Social climber
THE BOTTOM OF MY HEART
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Sep 14, 2011 - 06:31pm PT
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Men never want to go to the Doctor or Hospital until its sometimes to late.
Im sure we lost a few great ones to this stubbornness.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Sep 14, 2011 - 06:32pm PT
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Here's to a quick recovery, Bullwinkle. Very sorry to hear about your injuries.
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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Sep 14, 2011 - 06:38pm PT
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Sooner is better...but I hope their prognostication is too conservative. I've been told I'll never run again - twice. Guess what, they don't always take into account the determination and active recovery factor. I'm betting on you.
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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2011 - 06:38pm PT
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DMT,
I met you the Day you Broke your Ankle, you were siting in a Car in C4 wearing a very stoic face. I thought you had some sort of an Attitude as you didn't say a word to me when we were introduced. When I found out what the deal was I vowed never to Judge a Book by its Cover again, thanks for the kind words. . .df
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flyingkiwi1
Trad climber
Seattle WA
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Sep 14, 2011 - 06:39pm PT
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Hey Dean,
So sorry to hear about your injury and its ongoing consequences. Wishing you the best of energy in moving foward on it and with it.
Ian
PS If you haven't already, you might want to find a way to check out topical ganga for dealing with joint stuff (no pun intended). I know it really works for getting more paddling (in terms of shoulder comfort) out of a surfing session.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Sep 14, 2011 - 06:42pm PT
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best wishes to you Bullwinkle on your recovery... hope to see you speeding past me on the rock again
but also your sentiments are spot on
I cannot imagine how this country got to the point where a crowd of people could express that sort of view, perhaps it's always been there and I haven't seen it... but my heart is sick to think that a part of the voting population would just want to leave that person to die.
Ironically, the same people who would so oppose health care in part because of their unfounded fear of a "death panel" organized themselves into one spontaneously during that debate.
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Sep 14, 2011 - 06:46pm PT
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Glad to hear you're on the mend man. What a treasure to live to climb and breathe another day.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Sep 14, 2011 - 06:52pm PT
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I'm very sorry to read this, Dean.
Can you get a second opinion?
Best of luck however things work out.
If it helps, it is most likely in the case of an injury like yours the ER would just have casted it, given you some pain killers, and recommended that you see a specialist. At least that's the treatment I have had in similar circumstances.
Also, I have been told many times by doctors (most recently a brain surgeon) that my climbing days are over. F*ck that. I continue to love climbing and so will you. Drop me a line via the site email function when you're feeling up to it and we'll go do some easy routes together.
Kris
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Sep 14, 2011 - 06:54pm PT
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best wishes dean.
though your physical beast ails,
your mind and spirit will teach it new life.
you'll remain a master of words and action.
the future is patient. kick it around again when
you get your foot good.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 14, 2011 - 06:57pm PT
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Best to you Dean, a cautionary tale for all. We are about the only industrialized country without some kind of universal health care.
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Sep 14, 2011 - 06:57pm PT
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Sorry to hear about your injury.
Don't listen regarding not climbing. As a motivator to all of us, if Hugh can do it, you can do it.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Sep 14, 2011 - 07:00pm PT
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WOW! Thanks for sharing that. Glad you will be around with your fantastic artwork for many many years...hopefully!
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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2011 - 07:00pm PT
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Silver,
Damn!! yikes. . .I hope they can help your pain, you seem like a good person who doesn't deserve this.
I'm not on ANY painkillers at the present as I don't need that addiction and my level of pain is way lower then yours. I intend to get a second opinion as I do not want the Fusion unless there's no other choice.
Kris, see you in J.T. this season, let's Climb for sure. . .d
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Sep 14, 2011 - 07:13pm PT
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BTW Dean, this isn't the "let me shove my bloated opinion on national healthcare" down everyone's throat but here goes anyway. I own a company and we fully pay for everyone's (kaiser) and I support the idea, but I believe it was a totally F*ed up process Obama allowed to occur. They tossed out a carcass and let all the lobbyists pick at the bones tweeking and changing parts here and there of that bill until I am imagining a national disaster about to happen when the trigger gets fully pulled.
WHAT THEY SHOULD HAVE DONE was to let a group of true experts look at other countries best practices and pitfalls, and designed a system for our country. Then congress could vote yes, or no. Like they did with the base closing commission. Not, "hey, let the big pharma that contributed to my campaign make these changes and then I'll vote yes". Once that got multiplied 250 times, it got ugly to the point that the amount of folks who bothered to read the final bill could most likely be counted on my fingers. It turned into a f*#ked up mess about to occur.
It's a national shame on several levels for many reasons. You should have had medical coverage, we all should, and it's a damned shame.
Wish you the best and good health again.
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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Sep 14, 2011 - 07:18pm PT
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Hard luck. I second the 'second opinion' suggestion.
I've experienced some serious injuries over the years and Western medicine has been wrong about the prognosis' as often as right.
MD's are a lot like weathermen.
Eastern medicine has healed my injuries many times.
I hope you continue to look into alternative healing tecniques.
I think you'll be out enjoying whatever physical activities you want, sooner than later.
Best wishes for a speedy FULL recovery.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Sep 14, 2011 - 07:25pm PT
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Sorry to hear about this Dean. I didn't know. And sorry too to understand how tough it has been for you in other respects, jesus. Hoping for you!
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Norton
Social climber
the Wastelands
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Sep 14, 2011 - 07:27pm PT
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Bullwinkle, it IS true that no one can be "denied" care if you show up at an emergency room, this is Federal law for many years now.
But, if you do not have health insurance then only "emergency" care will be given, and of course the hospital WILL go after you personally for the charges.
So, if you had gone to an emergency room say right away, then they are required to "save your life", and that's about it. They are not required to get you an MRI, not are they required to do any surgery, unless NOT doing the surgery could cause you to die.
However, the good news is that if your personal income is say under about $28K a year, verifiable of course, then you would qualify under Obama's new healthcare plan to receive a "voucher" worth about $80 a month to be applied to a minimum coverage healthcare policy. And depending on the wording of that policy, you could well have been covered for fixing you up right in the beginning.
You are exactly the category of person the new healthcare law is designed to help: those adults who cannot afford, but need coverage.
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neversummer
Trad climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
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Sep 14, 2011 - 07:39pm PT
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Keep your head up...and this doesn't have to be the end to anything.
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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2011 - 07:44pm PT
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Peter,
Thank you, thank all of you.
I didn't tell very many people because that's not who I am. I try and take care of myself and my friends and only take help from my friends when offered.
I make around 10k per year and pay my taxes, I don't have many things and am fine with that I am a Climber/Artist and that's a lot. The Stone and Climbing Comnuinty has given me much more than I've needed to live life, I try and give back to my people.
I've never asked for or wanted anything from our goverment, I feel that those who serve deserve the gov's/our support as they're paying for it with their blood. . .
Edit, I do Feel that Health Care is needed here, something that works for all of us regardless of how much money you do or do not have. . .
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 14, 2011 - 07:46pm PT
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I had a very similar thing happen to me last summer, the same day Scuffy took his spill, a couple days after Karl's accident. Fortunately my case was much less severe than any of you guys.
Eerily similar to Dean's though. Twenty foot groundfall from a familiar, seemingly safe, place (elevator Crack, Vedauwoo)onto a slab of Pre cambrian sherman granite. No health insurance, little $!
I did ice, ibuprofen and ace bandage (thanks Daph!) After a couple weeks I could hobble around for approaches, and climb with a left shoe three sizes larger than the other. A tiny redhaired muse prescribed 8 oz of inversion traction therapy, which helped more than I would have believed.
I've avoided springing the age card, but I'm no spring chicken. Pretty sure Bullwinkle, moose that he is, isn't, either.
For a while I was hobbling up to 5.12 ow's heavily bandaged and in considerable pain, only to put on yet more painful climbing shoes. Interestingly enough, the climbs were distracting enough that I forgot about the pain while on them, and for a while after. Nothing else helped as much.
Now, three months later I'm climbing in whatever of my shoes are called for and running up to ten miles in a run, in five finger shoes. My foot is a differet shape than before and I can feel a faint throb in various positions. I suspect that like my elbows, it will predict oncoming storms. Works for me.
I think I broke a bone above my little toe. I think there was also major dislocation of some sort. The ace bandage, applied two days or so after the injury decreased the swelling by 50% in a few hours. I think it put the pieces back in place. Inverted foot jam traction therapy popped things further into place to a point that I knew I would climb and run again.
But it reinforces what a backward nation we live in as far as health care. In what other so-called developed country would Dean or I have been compelled to take such a do it yourself approach?
At leas the repugs don't have a chance in the next election. Not that that alone will bring the US to the standard of medical care taken for granted in most of the modern world.
One day after,
a few days later,
sometime later, when I knew it would be okay...
Now Fatty, I know it means poorer returns and less profits for you and your clients; and further I realize that you personally, are a more than usually generous individual.... But, can you really make a case for why it is in the voting public's best interest to legislate substandard health care for our country?
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malabarista
Trad climber
Portland, OR
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Sep 14, 2011 - 07:46pm PT
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Bullwinkle, definitely don't listen to the "can't climb" prognosis. I know of several climbers who have been told this and are climbing today. Your situation may be different, or it might not. Drs seem to underestimate the willpower and resilience of climbers.
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Mark Rodell
Trad climber
Bangkok
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Sep 14, 2011 - 07:52pm PT
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Hope you mend quickly, fully. I wish you the best.
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Sep 14, 2011 - 07:55pm PT
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Sorry for the high jack, but I think in the health care debate we need to break it into two issues. One is the cost of the health care. The other is the quality of the healthcare.
My son managed to break his arm, for the second time, this spring. I've yet to tally up all the costs from the ambulance ride, the say in the hospital, x-rays, anesthesia, surgery, and follow up visits. I have no doubt they exceed $20k. We pay about $7k/yr for family coverage, and out of pocket for this event is ~$4k.
I'm both thankful for the quality of the healthcare we have in this country, and that we can afford it. Now the question is, can we retain the quality of healthcare and provide it to everyone? Conversley, perhaps the better question is, how can improve the economy in this country so that everyone can afford healthcare? I'm not paticulary sure that we want to change the system so that our best and brightest no longer seek the medical field.
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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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Sep 14, 2011 - 07:59pm PT
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Couchmaster, How unamerican to suggest that we learn anything from the experience of other counties!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Sep 14, 2011 - 08:02pm PT
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Sorry, Dean. I hope it heals well over time.
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Tobia
Social climber
GA
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Sep 14, 2011 - 08:23pm PT
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As advised earlier get a second opinion. There is definitely more than one way to skin a cat. Orthopedic surgery is like everything else that needs mending; there is always another way and often a better solution.
Even so; fused bones aren't the end of anything except your injury. A pal of mind just had some bones fused after limping around on an ankle the size of a softball for 30 years. It hurt to look at it.
He is as happy as a lamb now and no longer has the scowl of the walking wounded on his face.
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Heyzeus
climber
Hollywood,Ca
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Sep 14, 2011 - 08:27pm PT
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Bullwinkle,
So sorry to hear this, if I was a rich man I would pay for it, but alas, I am a poor one.
Years ago my brother had to go to the ER at Cedars. No insurance, no money. He was there for days, lots of tests. Ended up paying almost nothing. They had some kind of poor people grant thing. I can ask him about it if you like. Might not help you as it was a ER situation. I know your sometimes in these parts.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 14, 2011 - 08:28pm PT
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Haha Dingus. you know me, total wimp. "It's humid, I'm out of shape, hot almost girlfriend can be the ropegun"
fortunately for sods like us though, is that we are accomplished observers. We can deal with what is presented to us, accept and deal with it, and put it in perspective.
Break your ankle in valley backcountry with Fluoride in charge? Excruciating! but you know you're not Doug Scott on the Ogre. She will make sure you survive.
Possible fifth metatarsal fracture? "Stick your foot over your head and crank, weenie"
 yeah in the overall scheme of things this ain't a biggee.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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Sep 14, 2011 - 08:55pm PT
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Dean, just got into internet land......Sorry. If I can do anything let me know. Life, we breathe and do it...a day, today. Peace, Dude. lynne
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Sep 14, 2011 - 09:03pm PT
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Best of luck to you, Bullwinkle.
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Nick
climber
portland, Oregon
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Sep 14, 2011 - 09:14pm PT
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Damn, Dean I am really sorry to hear of your injury. Getting older and being a climber sure is a challenge. Heal well and soon.
Hope we get to rope up agin someday soon.
Nick
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 14, 2011 - 09:53pm PT
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Dean... F#@kn bad.
but not as bad as it might have been.
Mark Powell has a fused ankle, didn't stop him.
Heal up.
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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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Sep 14, 2011 - 09:54pm PT
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Tolman_paul, Can you imagine a society where people become doctors because they are passionate about health care, rather than because they expect to become rich doing it?
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Sep 14, 2011 - 09:56pm PT
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hey there say, bullwinkle.... oh my....
here's to you, as to hope and prayers that things will resolved in some good way for you...
say, norwegian...as to your quote, very NICE solid-anchor type
words for future, when folks are in a rough spot:
best wishes dean.
though your physical beast ails,
your mind and spirit will teach it new life.
you'll remain a master of words and action.
the future is patient. kick it around again when
you get your foot good.
sometimes, when we least expect it, too, bullwinkle, a ray, and a WAY of help, comes our way, even after we may messed things up, or feel that we have...
sending hope you way, and to all those with ankle/foot injuries...
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Sep 14, 2011 - 09:59pm PT
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I've been watching T.V. quite a lot, saw the Repub Debates and was sickened by the crowds reaction to the Question of an uninsured man in a coma, should he be Left to Die? a cheer went up and I felt like throwing up. Nobody deserves that.
With the GOP, the right to life ends at birth.
We've come to this as the tea party and similar political groups have given shelter to the idea of personal selfishness above all things and at the expenses of everyone. Senior Citizens are expected to give up social security so the very richest aren't subjected to an unthinkable minor tax hike. This is not the way to happiness for the country or even the rich.
In case there are other climbers out there making less than 10k a year and with less than 2000 in assets, if you get hurt, you can often apply for county insurance (CMSP or equiv) that might even pay retroactively for your injury expenses if you get it done on time. There's no premium so why not apply now?
I just got back from burning man where somebody's social value comes from what they can share with the greater community, not what they can acquire, out-compete, or Dominate. People stayed in Hot, dusty post-apocolyptic conditions crapping in nasty portapotties but everyone was 10x happier than the average joe in the city.
"The American Way" of dog eat dog leaves the taste of dog in your mouth
peace
Karl
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crusher
climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Sep 14, 2011 - 10:08pm PT
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Dean I'm just glad you didn't smack your head, back or neck - this could have been so much worse. You will climb again, maybe even stronger - think positive!
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
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Sep 14, 2011 - 10:43pm PT
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I know a climber that sleeps in a nasty port-potty and he's very happy...!
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 14, 2011 - 10:51pm PT
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Brock... yes we were... and thin too.
Matt.. THX
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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2011 - 10:54pm PT
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GK,
You do know that two out of the three people in that photo are dead, yikes. . .d
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Sep 14, 2011 - 11:18pm PT
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We live in the most prosperous nation on the planet and we cannot properly care for our citizens . . . universal healthcare should have been instituted in the 1980's.
This is ridiculous!
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Captain...or Skully
climber
or some such
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Sep 14, 2011 - 11:28pm PT
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Yer gonna die fer sure, Dean!
Seriously hope it works out, Bro. Or at least that you and your ankle reach an accommodation.
Positive vibes.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Sep 14, 2011 - 11:33pm PT
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Dean,
Hoping for speedy recovery for you.
I urge everyone to go to stonemasterpress.com and buy copies of Dean's great book, Stonenudes, for yourself and friends. It's the perfect gift and will help out a visionary artist and chronicler of our tribe.
Rick
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Sep 14, 2011 - 11:44pm PT
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I think of my climbing career oscillating between two poles: having health insurance and not (more often the latter). I once had to eat $2,000 in medical bills when uninsured, which of course occurred when I was relatively poor.
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John Moosie
climber
Beautiful California
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Sep 15, 2011 - 12:07am PT
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Hope you get better Bullwinkle!!!
....
It was asked how to pay for national healthcare.
Currently approximately 50 million americans are without healthcare. Based on a population of 300 million,
that is 16.7 percent of Americans.
Also currently most reports say health insurance management cost 10 to 25 percent while medicare's management cost runs about 3 percent.
so if we went to a single payer system like Canada has, we could take the management cost that health insurers currently charge, and apply it towards it towards making certain everyone has health coverage.
If you also consider that most doctors offices have multiple people doing the billing, and that a single payer system would make this much easier, then you could have savings there which could be applied to doctors making more under the current medicare system, since many doctors currently think medicare does not pay enough.
...
Per Fatties question.. how do we decide what level of coverage to give?
We do it the same way medicare currently does, or the same way any health insurance company does.
then, for those who aren't satisfied that enough things are covered under medicare, we allow private insurance to provide enhanced coverage.
The portion of the bill that is covered by medicare, is covered by medicare. If you want anything else, then you have to pay for it.
...
Just my thoughts. Your mileage may vary.
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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 15, 2011 - 12:10am PT
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Wow, I'm truly touched by all of this, this Tribe is AMAZING. I posted as a way to maybe work thur this, to get some advice and I'm getting soooo much more than I even dreamed of.
Who woulda thought that a bunch of DirtBag Climbers have so much Heart and Soul, well I woulda thought that but then I've always been a dreamer. . .df
Edit, nice one RJ, I don't want money, you all have given me the one thing money can't buy. . .Hope
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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Sep 15, 2011 - 01:35am PT
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If that Dr screws up your ability to shoot nekkid women on the rocks, it'll be 4 in the head and one in the ass for him!!!!
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Mimi
climber
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Sep 15, 2011 - 01:46am PT
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Those are some gnarly feet, Jaybro!
Good luck healing up, Dean.
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Gabe
climber
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Sep 15, 2011 - 01:56am PT
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Only a Stone Master could have survived this. Heal well bro! It would have killed a normal guy.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Sep 15, 2011 - 02:09am PT
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Hey Dean
Thanks for sharing... I take your advice to heart. I honestly do. I hope to see you around this season in JT, hopefully climbing... good, positive people will have wonderful experiences, yours is on its way.
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ß Î Ř T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Sep 15, 2011 - 02:25am PT
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I'm sure some of your model shoots would make for great material. I was thinking about the photo(s) taken on the Sherwin Plateau in particular(?). Surely there's a story there somewhere. Would recommend this - if you haven't already ...
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cliffhanger
Trad climber
California
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Sep 15, 2011 - 03:16am PT
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In the US the number of doctors has been restricted, not to insure quality, but to keep prices sky high.
___
Cuba has been renowned as a place for high quality care at prices 1/4 of US.
Here's a wikipedia link to medical tourism:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medical_tourism#Cuba
Cuba
Cuba has been a popular medical tourism destination for more than 40 years. Thousands of patients travel to Cuba, particularly from Latin America and Europe, attracted by the "fine reputation of Cuban doctors, the low prices and nearby beaches on which to recuperate."[58] In 2006, Cuba attracted nearly 20,000 medical tourists.[59]
Medical treatments included joint replacement, cancer treatment, eye surgery, cosmetic surgery and addictions rehabilitation. Costs are about 60 to 80 percent less than US costs.
Cuba has hospitals for Cuban residents and others that focus on serving foreigners and diplomats. In the 2007 American documentary film, Sicko, which criticizes the US healthcare system, producer Michael Moore leads a group of uninsured American patients to Cuba to obtain more affordable medical treatment. Sicko has greatly increased foreigners' interest in Cuban healthcare. A recent Miami Herald story focused on the high quality of health care that Canadian and American medical tourism patients receive in Cuba.[60]
The Cuban government has developed Cuban medical tourism to generate income for the country. Residents of Canada, the UK and most other countries can travel to Cuba without any difficulty, although a tourist visa is generally required. For Americans, however, because of the US trade policy towards Cuba, travelers must either obtain US government approval, or, more frequently, travel to Cuba from Canada, Mexico, the Bahamas, Jamaica or the Dominican Republic. Cuban immigration authorities do not stamp the passports of US visitors so that Americans can keep their travels a private matter.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Sep 15, 2011 - 03:24am PT
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It's a good point, heavily subsidize medical school and Nursing schools, institute single payer and health care for everyone like the rest of the civilized world. There's nothing to say that surgeons need to make thousands a day.
Our current system is obscene. A poor uninsured person is charged 3 times what the insurance company that person with minimal insurance has. The government pays even less.
Medicare has the lowest costs and lowest administration cost compared with private insurance.
Peace
Karl
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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Sep 15, 2011 - 07:51am PT
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Dean,
So sorry to hear this. For what it's worth; I've broken both ankles and one of them took for ever to heal, due to a prior injury. I was seriously thinking of having it fused.
In time it got better. I've got other issues, ( herniated disc and arthritis in multiple places), which are getting worse.
If it WASN'T for climbing to drive me- I would be a basket case!
I got a load of shrapnel in my ankle from Vietnam, and they said that I would never run again. I ran a 5 minute mile at 50 years old- 15 years ago.
Doctors are too used to seeing the average, lazy American.
I take Meloxicam everyday. It's similar to Celebrex, but unfortunately you may have a problem getting it since it is not over the counter. Every case is different and it is hard to know how much pain someone is in.
In any case, I hope things work out for you. Best, Steve
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Sep 15, 2011 - 09:15am PT
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Dean,
Sorry to hear about your accident but I'm glad it wasn't worse. Mark Powell always told me he climbed better with a fused ankle but let's hope it doesn't come to that.
Heal up and send me a couple of calendars. I'll send you the cheque.......
Heal quickly,
Jack R
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Sep 15, 2011 - 10:26am PT
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Dean,
I took a long sliding fall, hit a chicken head with on the ball my right foot and popped my ankle. I pushed my toes up into my shin and blew my ankle out! After surgery I was left with plates, screws and pain. I healed slowly, and then started climbing. After many years of abuse I had more pain than I could now deal with. It seems long the way( almost 20 years of climbing) after the initial injury the abuse and punishment I dished out to my ankle was severe. I had broke the pin in half and now had a partial mend. In constant pain and now unable to even hike I sought out help. One Doctor was able to help. He said I can't make you new, but I can help. So after some arthroscopic and general surgery, which removed the metal, arthritis, bad bone and junk, I was left with a mostly fused ankle with limited range of motion. This time I gave it proper time to heal, and then slowly started climbing again. this was in '01. Since I have been rock climbing, mountaineering, and hiking like there's no tomorrow; because there isn't. Only today. So I make the most of it. after many trips climbing in Peru and hundreds of trips to JT and the Sierra I'm still going, with a fused ankle. I saw
Dr. James Richard Larose
1060 N. 13th Avenue
Upland, CA 91786
(909) 985-2555
Give him a call and see what he can do for you. Perhaps he can recommend you to someone else if needed. He was a miracle worker for me.
You will climb again.
I hope this helps, Dean
TY
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Sep 15, 2011 - 11:41am PT
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I make around 10k per year and pay my taxes,
...and this is just wrong too. That Obama and the democratically controlled house and senate extended the tax cuts for the rich so that they can continue to build assents they don't need at your expense astounds me. What are you going to do about that? Vote republican? Hah!~
Dean, why do you think you fell on something so far in grade below where you should have even worried about. Some of the rest of us free solo on occasion, and it is difficult to write off the great masters who have died soloing. Guys like Dwight Bishop, John Bachar and Derek Hershey. What, or rather why, did that happen?
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MH2
climber
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Sep 15, 2011 - 12:15pm PT
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Bullwinkle,
You did a great job telling your story.
Doctors tend to be conservative when telling you what to expect, so as not to give false hope, and some even seem to feel that a discouraging prognosis will motivate you to prove them wrong.
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Sep 15, 2011 - 12:20pm PT
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Everyone falls,eventually. Broken hold, bee-sting, dirt in your eye, momentary loss of concentration, Ego; the reasons are as many as there are falls. The question is: will it be while you are soloing? As per Dean's narrative. My little voice has served me well: when I listened. I listened a lot closer after my life changing fall, I can assure you. Dean will too.
Respectfully,
TY
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Sep 15, 2011 - 02:14pm PT
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Bullwinkle,
Maybe these things start to happen at our age. I fell on one of the easiest parts of the Royal Arches (where I'd never roped up before) climbing with my daughter six weeks ago. Fortunately, I had more gear than my chalkbag and made it down. I was a bloody mess, but the injury has been reduced now to just a couple of swollen fingers. I hope at least to try the climbing gym in the next day or two; I actually played the piano in public last Sunday, so I'm obviously better.
Hang in there, my friend. There's still plenty of time to get well (or get used to what you can do in a less-than-well condition).
On the political side, the Tea Party reaction to "let them die?" sickens me -- and I'm a conservative Republican. Fortunately, enough Americans disagree with that rot so that, I hope, we'll never be so callous in this country.
By the way, if your medical bills ever get truly overwhelming, I can help you control or eliminate the hounding. Just email me if you ever need that help.
Hope you're better soon.
John
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Sep 15, 2011 - 02:33pm PT
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Help a brother out and bag a cool poster?
I have a limited supply of Stonemaster posters, signed by the greats.
$35 includes shipping.
Yabo poster, 16 X 20, made by Dean:
Send me a check written to Dean Fidelman: I will ship you the poster(s) and forward the check(s) to Dean.
Let me know here in this thread, or via the e-mail function, that you’re going to send your check.
Send checks to:
Roy McClenahan
PO 463
Nederland, CO 80466
I'll need your return address for US Postal Service.
Anything helps, even palliative care: a few poster sales might buy something helpful, like this thing below.
Not for serious injuries, but something to consider for use somewhere along the healing trajectory:
(A very slim brace, built along the compression sock/tights type technology)
I use something like this underneath a more substantial brace on my knees.
http://www.cepcompression.com/ankle-brace.php
Be well Dean.
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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Sep 15, 2011 - 02:51pm PT
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Hey Dean, sorry to hear about the bad break, and ensuing mess. As others have said, get second and if necessary third opinions. If you happen to be out Salt Lake way, I know an ortho surgeon who is a top end climber. I'm sure he would cut you a deal in exchange for a calendar or photo.
More generally this is a great example of one of the problems with our health care system. Incentives in the system are often tilted towards major care rather than early care or preventative care. Maybe the ER doc wouldn't have done anything that would have helped Dean's ultimate outcome. But maybe an immediate cast and some proper rehab would have done the trick. Instead, he (and society helping bear the cost), are faced with at least one MRI, maybe more, possibly a major surgery, and possibly a long-term reduced quality of life for a contributing member of society. Or take a look at a guy who skips a colonoscopy because it costs too much. What could have been an easy polyp removal instead ends up being colon cancer, costing 10s of thousands, and perhaps resulting in death.
Even if we don't go the way of single payer, we need to get better at realizing that goal should be prevention and early treatment, not the newest, coolest, most expensive catastrophic treatments.
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Sep 15, 2011 - 08:39pm PT
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This is such sad news, Dean... However, a good man is hard to keep down! ...wishing the best for a good outcome. Now make sure you get a second/third opinion.
Once again, we have a perfect personal story that highlights the need for universal health care providing reasonable, competent and humane treatment and preventative medicine. How the Repugnacants can justify their stance in these matters while espousing "christian" values remains beyond me.
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 15, 2011 - 08:43pm PT
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The material body is the source of all misery.
There's no escape for the material plan makers.
None ......
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Sep 15, 2011 - 08:50pm PT
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Werner, it might seem odd (to others, but not to you), but that made me smile :)
Not in a cynical way, but in a basic gesture of acceptance of truth, and a choice to be happy anyways. Thanks!
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Sep 15, 2011 - 11:11pm PT
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@Silver, I have had mostly pain free years unless i really abuse it, like a 6 week expedition. Then I am the Ibuprofen king. But it was the answer for me. Once you break an ankle severly, you are never really the same. You adapt and get on with it, there really is no other choice.
TY
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 15, 2011 - 11:54pm PT
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That's funny Riley. I have to look to the right to see that same poster, got the same way...
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James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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Sep 16, 2011 - 12:10am PT
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Dean-
Believe in a full recovery and it will be.
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Sep 16, 2011 - 12:23am PT
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If you are in the Santa Cruz area I would recommend Dr. Nick Abedi...best foot and ankle doc ... comes at from the standpoint of sports medicine and getting it working the best that it can again. Heal well! Susan
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Sep 16, 2011 - 01:04am PT
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Sorry to hear of your misfortunate fall. At our age, soloing is certainly much riskier. Heal well.
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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Sep 16, 2011 - 01:22am PT
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Impressed by this thread, particularly at Bullwinkle's world-view and his approach to coping with this.
Ashamed of our country.
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tarek
climber
berkeley
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Sep 16, 2011 - 09:43am PT
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Dean,
Thanks much for writing this down, which is actually a valuable service for all of us.
Didn't read the thread, but my two cents:
Get the ankle in a bucket of hot water 5x/day, and work the ROM to the limit.
You can ice at the end for pain.
Try that for a month. Most people don't really do rehab as it needs to be done--it seems to me. At your age you need to move the joint through its ROM literally hundreds of x/day.
Think of how 10% improvement will be, then 10 more, etc. Don't forget good nutrition either.
Hang in there.
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Dick Erb
climber
June Lake, CA
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Sep 16, 2011 - 12:19pm PT
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I'm sorry to hear about your injury Dean, and wish you good recovery.
I once broke my elbow and was told I had arthritis to look forward to. Decades later at age 67 I still haven't felt it. A few years ago, at a ski patrol refresher, an orthopedist showed an x-ray of an elbow that looked just like my old x-ray with a compression fracture of the radial head. His comment was that this guy would be taking ibuprofen for the rest of his life. My experience like others related here shows how pessimistic assessments by MDs are very common.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Sep 16, 2011 - 02:08pm PT
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A friend had a bad parapenting accident 17? years ago. He broke his back, pelvis, and snapped his right foot off (only soft tissue attaching it to the rest of his body). His ankle was fused but he still climbs 5.12, though he does not do alpine climbing any more.
The key is to still get out with friends and have fun even though the goals are more modest than 30 years ago.
Perhaps we need a SuperTopo get together for the walking wounded. Only people with arthritis/severe limps need apply. GIMP FEST!!!!
Another comment about health care. Canada's system, though superior to the US, is getting kind of ragged. You will get immediate care for an emergency (ie can't walk) but the waiting list for optional surgery (like a torn shoulder)can be 2 years, by which time the shoulder is toast due to scar tissue.
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