Got in an auto accident. - need advice/input (OT)

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nature

climber
back in Tuscon Aridzona....
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2011 - 05:31pm PT
Well... I get what you are saying.

But I do think this is in the fender bender category.

Our two fenders collided as he was moving past me. He hardly slowed me down and didn't divert my path at all.

Are they going to total a $16K vehicle for a $4K repair job?
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Sep 9, 2011 - 07:14pm PT
You get a wreck title if the damage exceeds a certain amount, and that seriously affects the price or trade in allowed when you resell the car. In Wyoming, the dollar limit that triggers a wreck title is $3000.00 of repairs due to a single collision. I don't know about other states, but CHECK IT OUT FIRST before the repairs start!!
tolman_paul

Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
Sep 9, 2011 - 07:27pm PT
All I can say is in the case of the car I had that should of been totalled, and this was back in ~'92 the estimated value of the car was $10k, repair estimate was $7500, actual repairs came to $8500.

The estimate sounds low, but hard to tell from the pics the extent of the damage from the pics.
nature

climber
back in Tuscon Aridzona....
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2011 - 07:34pm PT
I went through the estimate with the assessor as well as the guys at the body repair shop and it all seems in order.

Their is an aluminum "bumper" in the front and it's not damage at all. So most of the damage is superficial it seems. Lots of plastic parts and some brackets. Lights, etc. A new hood and they might end up just repairing the fender as it's got the smallest little bend in it.

and then it all gets painted.

I did state that I wanted OEM parts - they had me down for after market so thanks for the tip on that!

BDC - I'll ask about if there is a status change in the title. I can see why that would be bad.

Silver - I'll PM my address. Thanks!
Prod

Trad climber
Sep 9, 2011 - 08:17pm PT
I'm not sure if this was said or not. I'm not going to read the entire thread.

The insurance adjustor is not your friend! THE INSURANCE ADJUSTOR IS NOT YOUR FRIEND! These guys are ass holes. their job is to keep money for their company. They will play nice guy when the do the initial inspection. They will ask leading questions trying to get you to devalue your property. They will piump out their mom if it earns them more money.

I'd get an independant adjustor to do a estimate for you. It will be way higher than their adjustors amount and you will most likely get the higher amount.

THE ADJUSTOR IS NOT YOUR FRIEND!!!!

Prod.
Prod

Trad climber
Sep 9, 2011 - 08:20pm PT
they might end up just repairing the fender as it's got the smallest little bend in it.

That is what I am talking about. They should pay you for a new perfect one, then you can make the decision to repair the existion one. When you go to sell the car, a pro will be able to identify the repair and call you on it.

Prod.
James Wilcox

Boulder climber
Santa Barbara
Sep 9, 2011 - 09:29pm PT
I wish insurance co.s and body shops were required to disclose the use of imitation parts, but they're not. They lobbied years ago, on a state by state basis, getting that exemption. Jerks. Good catch on your part.

$4,200 is pretty light these days, so the damage, at least structurally, isn't all that bad.
Heads up, though, silver is a tough color to match. Not impossible-just tough.

Did they give you a car?
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Sep 9, 2011 - 09:29pm PT
Couple points.

Sounds like you got it covered. Go to the best possible body shop, get the OEM parts and let them milk the ins company for it. The adjuster is mostly out of the loop at that point. Deal directly with the shop and make sure they are getting what they need. They deal with adjusters and ins companies for a living, and their gain is yours too.

Make darn sure your frame is still straight. Sounds like it is if the bumper isn't damaged.

If you ever get a car totaled - strip it clean!! Are you f'n kidding?? Junkyard wheels, no stereo, etc - just a hulk of metal with a legal VIN attached. Book value has NOTHING to do with stereos, tires, etc - just year, miles, general overall condition (ie WRECKED!).

Good luck,
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Sep 9, 2011 - 09:36pm PT
Listen to Prod and remember: THE INSURANCE ADJUSTOR IS NOT YOUR FRIEND!!!!

Those bastards are there to do one thing, and that's save money for the insurance company.
Juan Maderita

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Sep 9, 2011 - 09:48pm PT
Yeah, nailed the estimate when I wrote:
My wild guess is $4K to $5K at a dealer or top price body shop. $2500 if you shop around or have connections,

Nature, you are correct when you said, "But I do think this is in the fender bender category."
Don't let these guys scare you about getting it repaired. They are comparing their apples to your orange. It's just sheetmetal and misc. bolt-on parts.

And, I wouldn't be concerned with "repairing the fender as it's got the smallest little bend in it." Another way of looking at it: Your repaired fender will have the factory primer and double the paint!

I'm assuming they penciled the job for a new hood? Insist on a new hood (OEM of course), and don't let them fix your hood. It's buckled/tweaked, in addition to the dent. No way to make that perfect.

Since your insurance company is paying the body shop directly, you can insist that everything is done correctly. The adjuster seems to be playing fair with you. Make sure that any cost overruns will be paid by USAA. The job can't be 100% accurately estimated until disassembly.
Don't sign off on the completed job until you have inspected and are satisfied. Inspect the paint work closely. The hood should be flawless, since you will be looking at it for some time to come. The gaps between sheetmetal should be even, and within factory tolerances.

If there is any doubt in your mind about the completed job, or if you don't feel qualified to inspect, then you could find someone to do an independent inspection of the work. Check the parts order against the estimate. I doubt that USAA would pick up the tab for that, but $50 out-of-pocket might buy peace of mind before signing off on the job.

When paying for repairs, I like to drop by the shop and have wee the work in progress. A good time would be upon disassembly. Again after the sheetmetal is painted and before the plastic parts are bolted on. That way you can see what is going on underneath. You can also look for Toyota OEM stickers on the parts or parts bags. Then, if you were to reject their paint work, the shop would appreciate that final assembly labor only has to be done one time.
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
Sep 9, 2011 - 10:20pm PT
@ Nature - "It was about $16K. $1.2K I put down. the rest was a loan that is 15 months paid off on 5 years."

 When my little yellow car was totaled I don't remember how far off from paid off I was, my insurance paid off the car and I still had a little to put down on my current car, so…

"If it does get totalled I'm wondering what I'm looking at in terms of compensation. I've put $1000 tires on it a week ago. Added air shock supports, a trailer hitch, and a stereo to ipod component. Does that stuff get taken into account when they kelley blue book it or whatever to figure out how much I get compensated?"

 When my car was totaled I had a decent stereo system in it, deck, amp, sub. I pulled everything at the advice of my insurer. I also had a set of rims that I could not pull due to the way the car was taco'd, it torqued the rear right rim as well. I had to mention that to the insurer in order for it to be counted.


"Should I be talking about his stuff in public? I'll delete this ASAP if this isn't a good idea."

 I don't see why not, but then again I'm only a lawyer in 13 states.. just not yours.


"USAA is sending someone out - will call me to schedule tuesday. But I'm thinking I want to have someone look at it before they do. I want to be sure I ask the right questions and don't say anything I shouldn't."

 My understanding (limited as it is) is that their insurer will lowball, yours will highball, but that's all in their hands. That's one of the reasons they pay those lawyers for.


My experience was a little different than most in that I Have a pretty good insurer, at least my incident changed my attitude of my insurance company right quick. It seemed like everything was taken care of by my insurer. And I was back up and running again within a week.

hope this helps in some small way, and I hope you're back on the road quickly
nature

climber
back in Tuscon Aridzona....
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2011 - 10:48pm PT
Did they give you a car?

Yes, monday of this week I was contacted by enterprise asking when they can pick me up.

I get what you are saying prod. But USAA will pay the body shop directly and in full. And when the guy that is doing the work and ordering the parts finds other things needing fixing they will adjust it and bill back to USAA.

They are not even going to try and fix my hood. The fender I can see why they would fix. there's an area an inch long the is bent about 1/8".

As far as the silver goes I'm not worried about that. This is a standard Toyota silver.

I spoke with the body shop guys and he told me about all the computers and lazer systems they use to determine if the frame is OK. He also pointed out the two best insurance companies out there are USAA and State Farm. I have State Farm and I can attest they are good.

I'm reading all this info and taking it in. The one thing I'm mostly worried about at this point is if they change the title status. That is info I would not have considered.

Also, this is going to one of the USAA qualified body shops. USAA warranties all work so if in six months something isn't right I can take it back in, have it fixed, and USAA will get billed directly from the body shop. If I take it to a body shop not on their list I'm on my own after I walk out the door.

I don't want to be involved in the finances. Let them deal with it.

I'll get a "free" AC recharge and a couple minor paint flaws fixed.


I'm assuming they penciled the job for a new hood? Insist on a new hood (OEM of course), and don't let them fix your hood. It's buckled/tweaked, in addition to the dent. No way to make that perfect.


Well, apparently the deal is, and I'll double check, is they will get me a hood from a '06 or newer that has less miles than my rig. Which means it is OEM but not new. I'm going to speak with the guy at the body shop again and triple check on this stuff.
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Sep 9, 2011 - 10:50pm PT
One thing that everyone forgets on these "fender benders" is: INSIST ON A FRONT END ALIGNMENT AS PART OF THE DEAL! You'll lose your tires if this isn't done!
nature

climber
back in Tuscon Aridzona....
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2011 - 10:51pm PT
BDC - that's on the estimate. After what I just dropped it was like the second thing I asked about.

That said, the truck tracks perfectly straight like it always did.
Juan Maderita

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Sep 9, 2011 - 10:54pm PT
Nature,
Sounds like all good news. You know what to look for now. You are asking the right questions and asserting yourself. Probability for a positive outcome >85%. ST came to the rescue once again.
nature

climber
back in Tuscon Aridzona....
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2011 - 10:56pm PT
Make sure that any cost overruns will be paid by USAA. The job can't be 100% accurately estimated until disassembly.

Already sure of that!

And thanks for that advice.

ST came to the rescue once again.

It did. It almost always does! It's why I keep feeding these hungry monkeys raw fish!


You can also look for Toyota OEM stickers on the parts or parts bags.

oooh! an other awesome tid-bit.

The body shop folks seem pretty good. When I stated I wanted OEM they went over my list and said, this isn't OEM, that isn't OEM, and then we went over my options. So it's noted.
Juan Maderita

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Sep 9, 2011 - 11:02pm PT
A used OEM hood is fine. Again, it will have factory primer and double the paint. Make sure they spray the underside thoroughly, so that no old color is showing (hurts resale value). If they can't find a used hood, then you will get a new OEM hood.

Keep some photos of the damage and the invoice for when it comes time to sell your truck. A potential buyer should not be scared off by the minimal damage, properly repaired.

In some states, you have the right to demand OEM parts. Don't know about AZ.

nature, what do you mean the shop said, "...this isn't OEM, that isn't OEM, and then we went over my options." ??
All of the parts should be available from Toyota.
nature

climber
back in Tuscon Aridzona....
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2011 - 11:05pm PT
Yup! Will do.

but honesty, by the time I imagine I'd sell this truck it'll be 3/4's of the way into the ground. It's what I've done to my last two trucks and I expect 10+ good years out of this one. By then all this stuff will be meaningless in terms of resale.
Juan Maderita

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Sep 9, 2011 - 11:09pm PT
In 5 years, your hood and fender paint will likely fade at a different rate than the factory paint. Not much can be done to prevent that. The good news is that a running Toyota truck still has some resale value.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Sep 10, 2011 - 02:15am PT
As I said, USAA is upfront in their dealings - they'll do right by you. Just went through it all with them a couple of weeks ago and it was the same experience you're having.
Messages 61 - 80 of total 93 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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