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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 28, 2006 - 09:44pm PT
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Hello all,
I’m looking to gather advice for an attempt on El Cap in 2007. (Last week in Sept)
First, it may seem crazy, but really.. I am the first quad to do any big climbs as far as I know. We worked for ten years to get to the summit of the Chief.
The Chief, Grand Wall...
for more info photos...
verticalchallenge.org
It takes a big crew, but we are getting faster and lighter all the time. So the story is part of a documentary out soon, but it is far from over. Like everyone else here, I have wanted to climb The Captain ever since I saw photos.
Planning has started for this trip, and the obvious questions begin with…
What time of year is best? What route? And how to get down?
So, that is why I am here, looking for advice and support. I have met amazing, solid climbers online who are willing to help, share ideas.
Please do use this tread to help us flesh out a workable plan.
Thanks,
Brad
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Feb 28, 2006 - 09:56pm PT
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Hi, Brad.
Could you explain your basic set up? I looked at your pics, and your rig looked like it was designed to roll up the rock. How do you deal w/ overhanging sections? How much assistance do you take from your partners to make your rig move, and how does that work?
As for descending, I'd bet with the right off-road model(w/ excellent brakes!) and sturdy partners, you could take a wheel chair down the falls trail, although here's a link to a TR of a parapalegic woman's ascent where she was able to get a ride down the east ledges (4th class w/ raps) using a specially designed back pack and a really big guy.
http://climb.mountainzone.com/2000/elcap/html/text.html
Good luck with your plans.
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2006 - 10:03pm PT
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Oh… the system, people have questions how it works…
It is a simple one to one hauling system with a few twists.
The rope goes from the rig, and rigging plate... up to a big pulley at the station, back down to me.. through the rig where I have a cam that locks off. But, because a quad can’t pull his/her full weight, I have my rigger buddy on the rope between me and the pulley, above me to counterbalance my weight. But rather than do the regular ‘hauling’ at the station, he stays close to me walk the rig around as needed.
So the ‘counterweight’ guy jugs to stay just ahead of me. As I pull, he gets pulled down to me.. so he really jugs the route twice! So, we'll swap that guy out few times.Yea, getting help, but I’m pulling pretty dam hard too. I can pop the cam and get out of the system after getting to the station, so then the ‘belay guy’ (we have two grigri’s going.. one the ‘counterweight’ guy and one on me) takes the pulley and back up lines up the fixed line to the next station. So, we just need the leader to keep at least one pitch ahead of us. The team did fix all 12 pitches before hand on the Chief, but we are doing ground up climbing only now!
The ideas for getting down.. I have seen shots of Potter getting a tiny para girl down the ledges on his back, passing knots as he goes… well that is prolly too much for me and crew. Thinking about getting a custom made 3000 foot rope made and just lowering off the top! Sounds crazy I know, but could be on the ground in ten minutes if we are on a route steep enough to avoid any edges… elevator ride from hell!
Ideas?
oh.. Feel free to mock or tell me I should be sticking to the side walks.. I love that!
Brad
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Kristoffer
Big Wall climber
Blue Jay, California
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Feb 28, 2006 - 10:05pm PT
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Arrrr Brad! send that beast!
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2006 - 10:05pm PT
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I know Mark... but he is totally different, but got good ideas and well wishes.
great guy!
brad
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Gene
climber
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Feb 28, 2006 - 10:07pm PT
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You're A5 when A means attitude.
You'll send it.
Godspeed.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Feb 28, 2006 - 10:17pm PT
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Cool! As a fellow Hoser who's always around on El Cap, maybe I can help you out, dude. Let's send it!
But I'm confused - as a quadriplegic, I thought this meant you didn't have the use of all four limbs. Yet you say you are able to do some pulling with your arms, right? How much pulling can you do?
Also, might it be possible to show us a schematic of your hauling system? I'm having a bit of trouble understanding the explanation above. Then again, it might be the beer, eh?
How did you come to be quadriplegic?
Cheers,
Pete
P.S. Just to tell you what a skeptical dumbass I am, when I first saw the post, I thought, what's this, another troll? Because I thought it was spelled "quadra" not "quadri". Geeeeeeeeez. It just sounded too preposterous. Which is, of course, the reason it would be so damn much fun to help you pull it off! Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha!!!
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Kristoffer
Big Wall climber
Blue Jay, California
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Feb 28, 2006 - 10:22pm PT
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Brad im sure we can lower you down the slabs on the east ledges descent on a rigged up skate board or something, if we make some variations to the trail its almost completely all exposed slabs with out any bushes and obstructions.. you should talk to Ammon, he showed me his variation on east ledges decent and it was perfect from what i remember. the only trouble i can see would be the bottom half after the repels...
look at this trooper! Brad your a badass!
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2006 - 10:27pm PT
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srry, I just did something stupid to the website photos..
but here are a few large pics:
pulling..
counter-weight (chris geisler, this guy is a machine/animal)
crew at the station.. (hobey walker keeping ropes in order)
And yes.. "quadriplegic" means loss of function in 4 limbs... so, no hand function, but strong shoulders and pipes.
see: murder ball.. aka quad rugby
any questions.. shoot..
bz
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2006 - 10:33pm PT
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How did you come to be quadriplegic?
car crash.. full bio on my website..
verticalchallenge.org
bz
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
St. Louis
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Feb 28, 2006 - 11:23pm PT
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Any photos of your forearms?
Please advise.
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bringmeshelter
Social climber
la la land
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Feb 28, 2006 - 11:24pm PT
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Brad,
Nice dude, I saw you up on the chief a while back, probably 2003 cause I think the rig was yellow colored. If I'm around I'd be more than willing to help out! This is rad, totally rad! We could haul you without wheels over by ZM area. This is awesome!!! I'd be more than willing to donate my time for this!
Keep it up man!!!
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 28, 2006 - 11:57pm PT
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Why do you do it?
What does it do for you?
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Fluoride
Trad climber
on a rock or mountain out west
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Brad, is that Dave Miller with you on the Chief (blue shirt)??
You might want to get ahold of Ammon, he did a climb on El Cap last fall with Timmy O'Neil and Timmy's brother who is parapalegic. They had some interesting systems going that I'm sure could be of help to you.
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bulgingpuke
Trad climber
cayucos california
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Can i have your autograph....
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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holy cow, that's awesome! sexy rig!
Last time I was in the Valley I saw these guys rappeling off the top of El Cap over the "New Dawn" wall. They were rapping on single 3000 ft line straight to the deck. I believe it took a bit longer then 10 minutes...more like 30. They had to go a perfectly consistant speed as not to melt their single 11mm rope.
As for a lowering system from the summit....I wouldn't be the guy to talk to...but there are a couple fellas around this site who could sure help with beta.
Best of luck to your ascent! Any specific route alternatives on the table yet?
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2006 - 03:56am PT
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zm, or the trip thinking so far...
b
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the Fet
Trad climber
Loomis, CA
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Brad,
I came across your website while I was researching to help a parpaplegic friend climb last year (she had a blast and it was very rewarding for all of us). Great website, great climbs, great attitude!!
We all have strengths and capabilities and when we figure out how to challenge ourselves and then strive to meet those tough goals we get the most fulfillment out of life. That is a lot of what cimbing and life are all about.
You have been able to define your goal. The first quad to climb El Cap. That is awesome. The amount of work it will take to prepare and accomplish that goal is staggering, however from what I've read I believe you will do it. With the goal in sight, now it is time to focus on each task at hand and chip away at your project.
You are an inspiration to all of us. Bravo. I hope you put together a film crew and get some sponsors and I can watch your ascent in a few years.
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ricardo
Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
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ammon should chime in here ..
ammon, cedar, and tim just did space last year with tim's brother who is a paraplegic ..
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jack herer
climber
chico, ca
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shut the f*#k up bulgingpuberty
ya f*#kin dick
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2006 - 04:42pm PT
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On hauling…
Ok.. to be clear, I’m not getting a free ride, but I do have a counterweight guy to make the pulls reasonable.
I’m really thinking about going a lot slower, but doing it all on my own. That means doing a 3 to 1 pulley system which can add lots of friction when the ropes rub on the rock.
As fellow climbers you all must understand the need to move fast for safety, but I have to squash this idea that I’m only getting hauled up the rock.
No forearm pics, but I’ll get you a few of my shoulders and pipes, cause those are the only muscles I got. Getting a lot stronger and have moved up to arm wrestling guys now! (never lost to a woman yet, few came close though).. Stronger than I look, so it is fun to ham it up. Makes for a fun bar bet anyway.
Thoughts?
Free ride jabs?
Few link to other forums on this issue:
7 summits
wheel chair stuff
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Burns
Trad climber
Arlington, VA
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Tear it up Brad. Here's a thought though, have you tried to rig up a geared hand crank system to get your mechanical advantage rather than a 3:1 pulley? Might have to change your workout routine to develop different muscles, and mechanically it may be a challenge. Perhaps you can find a midget with some mechanical aptitude who can ride below your rig in a haul bag and come out to do repairs if you break down. You can have the first quad/midget ascent of, well, anything probably.
But honestly, if you want to do more yourself without the counterweight (and some poor soul jugging 6000+ feet), it seems that a mechanical system could work for you. Go to a bike shop and take a look at a road bike's gears for a while. It might help you come up with some ideas, and it might just be worth it to see the expressions on people's faces when they see a guy in a wheelchair looking quizzicly at a bike.
By the way, I'm planning on doing my first El Cap wall this spring/summer. I'd like to say that you're an inspiriation. But its more like a serious threat to my ego...
Edit: There are a handful of engineer types and other people who are generally handy with that kind of thing on supertaco. Perhaps you can get some design/fabrication assistance from some of them. I'm a mechanical engineer, if I have any good ideas, I'll send them your way.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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If you're prepared to change your gear ratio, it's easy enough to make yourself up a 3:1 or even 5:1 self-lifting ratchet assembly, and here's the thing - you don't need a separate rope and might not need anyone to help pull you if you adjust the ratio accordingly.
You can ascend a regular fixed rope with your own self-contained system. You would probably want it configured with wires and pulleys rather than ropes or perlon so there would be ZERO stretch.
Basically, you've got a T-bar that you pull down on with your arms attached to a long wire and pulley assembly. The top pulley[s] is on an ascender on the rope, and the bottom pulleys are on you [or your chair rig]. You have a separate ascender on you [or your chair rig].
With a 5:1 system, if you pull down say 20" on the T-bar, then you lift 1/5 your total weight [you plus your chair rig] four inches per stroke. You adjust the lifting ratio to what works best for you. If you are lazy like me, you might prefer a higher ratio to give you more pulls of less force, but moving shorter distances with each lift. If you are feeling burly, you might want to decrease the ratio to make harder pulls, but more lift each time. It all depends on how hard and how fast you want to work. What also affects the equation is how much stroke you can get with your arms - for instance, do you get as much pulldown distance as a non-disabled guy? And how hard can you pull down - how does your strength compare?
There would be a helluva lot less clusterf*ck in the rigging, too, without the extra ropes running all over the place, and you could legitimately say that you climbed El Cap completely under your own steam. What does it matter if you take one pull to lift yourself two feet, or three pulls, or five pulls, or even seven pulls? You pull enough times, you get to the summit.
By yourself.
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Burns
Trad climber
Arlington, VA
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and just that fast, PTPP comes up with a better way...
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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I have, like, hauled a lot of beer up El Cap, eh? I believe I have spent 261 nights up there now.
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the Fet
Trad climber
Loomis, CA
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"Free ride jabs?"
I like that one on your website (or maybe linked to a discussion board) where the guy (another quad) called you luggage (thinking your partners were just hauling you up / you weren't doing any work). You seem to have a good sense of humor, or I wouldn't bring it up. But you know how climbers name their haul bags / pigs? Maybe you and/or your rig should have a similar name, e.g. fat bastard, titanic, Boss Hog...
I didn't get the autograph joke above at first, but after it was flamed I got it, pretty funny actually.
I think Pete's got the right idea. Mechanical advantage down on your rig. Steel cable to a come-along? Pete what's the link for your bottom end of the rope haul setup? If it proves impractical though I don't think getting assistance negates your ascent. Just do it in the best style possible.
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2006 - 06:59pm PT
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Oh, hey guys..
All good ideas.. thanks.
There is a guy from Israel that made a rig sorta like mine, but was gear powered. He had Hans and Steve helping rig for him on the nose but had to come down.
We have used many different types of pulley ratios and all the rest. The 1 to 1 with counterweight really is the fastest and most straight forward. We would swap out the counterweight guy a few times, but yea.. he is working hard .
Of course I want to do it totally on my own muscle, but there are trade offs. Like a paraplegic can do that, but is not realistic for a quad. But, we are getting there.
keep em coming guys..
thanks,
brad
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WBraun
climber
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bradzz
I asked this earlier in this thread "Why are you doing this" and "What do you get out of it"?
I really want to know.
It is just my curiosity into human nature, what drives you to do something like this. Please see this as an honest inquiry.
I mean no disrespect to you.
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2006 - 07:22pm PT
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I asked this earlier in this thread "Why are you doing this" and "What do you get out of it"?
Well, what do you get out of climbing?
I climbed hard before my injury and see it as only logical to continue my goals. Sure it is not the same, power and grace enjoyment, but I'm still up there with great friends having an adventue.
guys, ask anything you like...
brad
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2006 - 10:06pm PT
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from donny via myspace
Actually, the rap idea is perfect. I was up there a few years ago when a group of cavers from Alabama/Mississippi rapped the face just east of the Nose, near Mescalito. They had PMI internally splice ropes to give them about 3000 feet. A team hiked up with 3000 feet of 1/4" rope, tossed it and hauled the 3000 foot 11mm rap line. It took 6 guys to carry the rap line to the base! Anyway, they rapped with a rappel bar, starting with 4 bars I believe and adding at least two during the decent. I have some pictures, I'll see if I can scan them and send them to you. The rope cost them about $1500 but I'm sure PMI would donate at least part of that.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Brad,
I like Burns' / Pete's ideas of using a mechanical advantage instead of a counterweight. I'm reminded of Peter Reike's SnowPod that he used to climb Mt. Rainier:
http://www.mobilityeng.com/
If you combine it with a single continuous fixed line in the Dawn Wall area, it seems like a much simpler project than going pitch-to-pitch on some route (less wasted energy in getting clipped into the anchors, lowering out, etc.). It also gives you a straightforward way to get back down (just rap). And, since it's fairly steep there, you could probably ditch the wheels for much of the time when you are just jugging in space, and lighten up the payload. If you like the counterweight system, you could rig that with a single rope at the Dawn Wall, too. And your counterweight can just be a dead weight instead of a guy (no jugging required for the counterweight). Probbably you'd want to have a second rope in place for support crew.
Have fun,
Clint
(incomplete paraplegic)
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2006 - 12:03am PT
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Yea I favor the gears too.. but it takes soo much longer it will be more dangerous. Longer time on wall, carry more sh*t, more chance of storms etc… That puts my crew at greater risk.. you all know the deal.
And there is a guy (not a quad) with a geared rig out there, but it is not a good design for a quad. I have to pull, not peddle.
His name is Felix Slamovics, and you can google him.. here is his design:
so, maybe this first trip will be with a counterweight.. I’m sure I’ll have naysayer regardless, part of the story.
All good thoughts so far, thank you
brad
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WBraun
climber
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Bradzz thanks for your response.
Test all the ideas and you'll come up with a nice solution.
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ryanb
climber
Seattle, WA
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neat rig...
could you just put both bedals on one side ant through free wheel (ratchet off a bike wheel? you'd probably need that and some sort of one way trick too...) in the system to turn the pedalling rig into a pulling rig?
(instead of spinng the pedals you would just pull/push them back and forth along one side of their circular path)
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the Fet
Trad climber
Loomis, CA
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I was thinking about this a lot last night. I can't tell you how cool I think it is.
I had the same thoughts as Clint. If you can ascend a single (or a couple really long) free hanging line it will make things a lot easier (and be belayed pitch by pitch on the nearest route for safety). Is there a spot completely overhanging over in the Zodiac area? (so you're going for 1800' instead of 3000'). Anyone who has hauled can tell you (and with my miniscule experience with a para climbing) free hanging hauling is MUCH easier than dragging on the rock.
As I said earlier, assistance in the haul may need to be part of the game, but here's a picture of a come along (which may mean you could haul yourself):
Oh yeah, one more name for the rig: Brad's Flying Circus ;-)
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Brad writes,
"Of course I want to do it totally on my own muscle, but there are trade offs. Like a paraplegic can do that, but is not realistic for a quad. But, we are getting there."
I do not know enough about your specific handicap, and what your limiting physical conditions are. I certainly get the trade-offs. However why is it not realistic for a quad? I believe it was Archimedes who said, "give me a lever and I can lift the world." It may not have been Archie, but probably one of them old farts in a toga. And apart from the problem of where to place his fulcrum, he is correct.
You can lift yourself, dude, and you can lift yourself plus your chair rig. And you do it by yourself, without the help of anyone else as a "counterweight", thus proving that you don't need anyone else's help to physically climb El Cap. The way you do this is by figuring out the best gear ratio that works for you.
You have written and implied that nothing is impossible, and that you are limited only by your own imagination. I believe that you may have improperly defined "realistic" as evidenced in your statement below.
Brad writes,
"Yea I favor [sic - you spell like a Merrican, eh?] the gears too.. but it takes soo much longer it will be more dangerous. Longer time on wall, carry more sh*t, more chance of storms etc… That puts my crew at greater risk.. you all know the deal."
Of course we all know the deal! I fully get it. When I climb El Cap, I tend to do it more slowly. I climb in Full-On Holiday Mode. It is rare for me to climb El Cap in less than a week, because I don't want to. I'm sometimes up there for two weeks when I'm having fun with a partner I like. Sometimes that partner is me when I'm soloing.
El Cap is a dangerous place - you can get stormed on and die if you are unprepared. That is part of the game. It's not a walk in the park.
I think what you need to reconsider is the amount of time and work you will have to put out in order to make this happen. If it takes me a week of effort to climb El Cap, and I am prepared to risk being caught in storms [and to take the appropriate precautions] then why not you?
Up until now, you have had it easier by using a counterweight person to assist you in your ascent. I do not know how long it takes you to climb a pitch this way. Can you please tell us what is your average length of time to climb a 150-foot pitch using your current lifting system with the assistance of your counterweight hauler? If I had a counterweight hauler, I could climb it faster, too. But I don't, at least for the jugging. Sometimes I put my partner on the other end of the haul line for pulling up the pigs, though!
If you're going to do it on your own, it's going to be harder. WAY harder. You're going to have to lift yourself by yourself. Now, before you go and say, "you have it easy, Pete" in some ways, you're right. I have it hugely easier hauling myself up there when I ascend a fixed rope or clean a pitch. But I also have to haul all my food, water and beer. My microwave oven and TV set are quite heavy, you know. So after I haul my own ass up there, I have to haul a pair of pigs, both of which weigh more than me, and both of which require a 2:1 mechanical advantage hauling system. So I haul myself once, and two pigs two times, that's about a 5:1 hauling ratio for me on a typical wall. Others choose to climb lighter, and I sometimes do, but that is typically what I do when I'm on holidays.
I can't do it in a day. It takes longer. I climb it a foot at a time.
Perhaps what you need to do is to redefine your constraints, and take a closer look at what you can actually do. Engineer-climbers like me can help. If it takes you three hours to ascend a single pitch, so frickin' what? All you have to do is climb two pitches a day! Hell, for me, that's a fast day!
Six hours of work over two pitches a day will get you up El Cap in a week and a bit, a perfectly acceptable time. Surely we can come up with a system with a hauling ratio that will allow you to ascend fifty feet per hour under your own steam, without requiring the assistance of anyone else?
You do want to climb it by yourself, do you not? Voice of Dirty Harry: "Well, do ya? Punk?!"
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the Fet
Trad climber
Loomis, CA
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If a quadriplegic said to any normal person "I'm going to climb El Cap", they'd say "you're crazy, that's impossible."
But you say it to climbers and they say "cool, but can't you do it in a better style?" LOL.
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2006 - 05:29pm PT
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Been there, done that... In the early days I was very adamant about doing it totally on my own, but slowly let go of that.
Guys, it is more pure, but it has issues... ones we could not resolve, but will revisit. Like re-threading the winch and such. Trust me when I say we have been through all the obvious mechanical designs a few times already.
Even on the blue rig I've used a z-drag to up my advantage etc... but as a group we agreed to keep it simple. We have had break downs that stop us dead in our tracks. so, it is an on going process to get it 100% quad powered.
As for pulling power.. I’m stronger on the right arm, but pull about 50-60 pounds per pull. The limiting factor is the hand splints. Even the best designs will put all the pressure on my thumbs.. it fells like doing chin ups in hand cuffs! So, yes, I have strong arms, but zero hand function! There are link on my site to disability sites if you are keen to know more about my injury.
Thanks for all the thoughts thus far, any more route choices and lowering ideas? Need the steepest line we can get to avoid edges on the lower.
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2006 - 12:04am PT
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If a quadriplegic said to any normal person "I'm going to climb El Cap", they'd say "you're crazy, that's impossible."
But you say it to climbers and they say "cool, but can't you do it in a better style?" LOL.
This is sooo ture, made my laugh pretty hard!
Next time I'll speed solo it with out any extra water ok?
bz
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CF
climber
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Here are some photos of Mark Wellmans rig on El Cap.
El Cap
Half Dome
Half Dome
Yow! look at that bolt! Mike Corbett leading on the Wellman Climb, Tis-sa-ack, Half Dome
Wellman jugging, Tis-sa-ack, Half Dome
Mark Wellman's unassisted ski trip over Hwy 120 through Tuolumne Meadows to Crane Flat. This is the Olmstead Point avalanche zone. Wellman fell off the track here, climbed back up with a ice ax and rope, hauled his sled back up, and got going again, all by himself. Very inspirational.
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2006 - 11:08pm PT
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will call him when back from a trip.
but, http://www.fringefilmworks.com/
is doing the chief film.. but mabye get him on elcap crew?
bz
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Mar 14, 2006 - 12:23am PT
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Bradz, cool stuff, keep showing us how it's done. Fascinating Also, maybe compare notes with Schneider about that guy he climbed up there with.
Quadraclimbia?
Quadracapia?
Although I like the Camus quote, how about Becket?
"I can't go on, I'll go on."
or, back to Camus.
"one life is pretty much like any other."
and Lois
Did you quote Camus before the philosophy class?
"Why did you kill the arab?"
"I don't know ... the sun ..."
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Mar 14, 2006 - 01:34am PT
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LEB I like having that background info as well. I don't think it's essential to 'get' someone like Camus, all at once. You read it once and it makes an impression, then you come back to it later and the things you've gone through in your life enhance your appreciation.
Like you meet Mark Wellman and then later the idea of a quad climbing El Cap seems more like a concievible goal.
Whew, I almost got that one back ON Topic.
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the Fet
Trad climber
Loomis, CA
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Mar 14, 2006 - 11:18am PT
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Are you looking for a title or subtitle?
For the Squamish climb?
I like Vertical Challenge as a title. But it could probably be improved on. Something more descriptive (about a quad climbing a big wall)...
Vertically Challenged (the name on production co. website) sounds like a PC film about people with dwarfism. Or maybe even a porn film about midgets (non-PC version).
How 'bout: A Climbing Quadriplegic's Flying Circus
Broken Dreams, New Dreams
Unstoppable
Adversity Overcome (or overthrow, surmounted)
Never give up
What do you call a quadriplegic hanging on a wall? Art!
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Mar 14, 2006 - 11:34am PT
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Dude, you get your ass up El Cap and I'll hike to the top of El Cap and hump you out to Tamarack Flats on my fricking back, I swear to God I will.
JL
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Rhodo-Router
Trad climber
Otto, NC
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Mar 14, 2006 - 11:41am PT
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Who says you have to rap the same way you went up?
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the Fet
Trad climber
Loomis, CA
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Mar 14, 2006 - 02:47pm PT
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"Broken Neck Mountain" Good one B-rad.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Mar 14, 2006 - 03:03pm PT
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What's keeping you from doing this in 06??? Maybe I can help.
JL
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2006 - 03:07pm PT
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I’ll be promoting the Chief climb film, working out and making new lighter gear… and raising money for 07. Want to be paragliding this summer too.. wish we could fly off the top of EL Cap.
Largo.. dam, it be so cool to get you on the team.
More very soon,
brad
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2006 - 09:09pm PT
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I know that paragliding is not legal in the valley.. but…
We were able to chopper off the Chief because it was safer than up rappelling through tree bands and such. We could have done it, but was safer for everyone in the park. That argument was accepted by BC Parks because of the team we had – all solid pro’s that work in the Park.
Yes, you’ll say, if you can’t get down, don’t go up!
But, we can get down, but it would be faster and safer to fly, paraglide off the top. I’m really not going to enjoy getting backed out to the flats, or to get carried down the ledges.
I know Mark was taken out to the flats, but had to have guys clear lots of brush to do it.
Any ideas we have not heard yet? I won’t do anything to piss of the Park Officials and will be sure the film guys are all covered as well.
Thinking, Thinking…
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Gabe
climber
San Clemente, CA
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Mar 16, 2006 - 01:07am PT
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Brad, Nice thread. I've been checking it out for awhile and think you have a very worthy goal! Nice job on the Chief, I still have that on my 'one day' list.
As far as getting off the captain, I bet you could lower off the Zodiac if you could drop a few extra ropes on top. Maybe you and another person lower to keep a nice angle of attack. Sounds fun to me! Good luck with your plans. I hope I get to see ya up there. Gabe
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2006 - 02:49am PT
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srry, my bloody server is down, back up soon.
arg,
brad
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Javier
climber
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Mar 16, 2006 - 03:47am PT
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Hey we lowered a big bunch of bags down Z-M with a bunch of ropes tied together. we had two gri-gris on a couple of big trees so passing knots was no problem. That would be some ride! I would think you'll have enough rope anyway.
Suerte!
-J
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2006 - 01:30pm PT
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soo... zm really is steep enough to not be hitting on the way down, any bad edges?
Been looking at lots of pics and topos, but...
Certainly have enough rope, just wondering if we'd need to break it into two or more lowers?
How far away from the wall did your bags hit at the base? I could drop a rope near the base to get directed to a good landing spot.
Ideally, I’d sooner rap and have control myself, getting lowered sucks. I think I can get a long enough line to avoid passing knots.
ideas?
thanks.
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Javier
Gym climber
Chile
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Mar 16, 2006 - 01:58pm PT
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Ropes and bags were about 100m (as i remember) from the wall in the talus. Wasn't any particular wear on the ropes and we didn't hit anything on the way down as far as I know. I think it would be way too steep to do in more than one go. You'll have some crew at the bottom and you can do a trial run with the bags...
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Javier
Gym climber
Chile
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Mar 16, 2006 - 02:01pm PT
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Rapping would be nicer and safer though, even if you have to pass some knots..
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2006 - 02:43pm PT
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righto...
Hey, got any photos of this?
I was thinking the Trip, but ZM is classic.
thanks
brad
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2006 - 03:05pm PT
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Oh, one other thing.. I need to do this 100% volunteer, the film guys will be paid however.
The idea is that the guys that have helped thus far are all over qualified and deserved to be paid film rigger rates. Two reasons, I could never afford to pay them what they are worth, and I want to climb with friends/partners.. not be someone’s ‘client’. I’m sure you can all understand that.
So, the risk of offending the others -- I just can’t pay one or two locals for their time.
But, I’d like to get well known bad asses involved if possible. If not, I’ll just hang out at the base for some crazy Russians to climb with.
Again, it will be for a film, so yea.. you’d need to try to say something nice about me too.. I know that is a tall order!
You should see the abuse and love CG gives me, dam his sense of humor is… well something.
Tear... you had me at f&ck off..
bz
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the Fet
Trad climber
Loomis, CA
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Mar 16, 2006 - 03:13pm PT
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I'd say play up the sympathy and film permit angles as much as possible and go for the permission to paraglide down. Not only would it be more fun, it will make for killer video.
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Rhodo-Router
Trad climber
Otto, NC
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Mar 16, 2006 - 03:34pm PT
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Seems like with all the loose rock people talk about on the ZM (haven't done it myself) that it might be a poor choice of route to trundle your cart up. The Trip is pretty clean though.
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2006 - 04:18pm PT
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Is the loose rock on the steeper pitches? Would I be touching it if we linked few pitches together to avoid these areas?
Trip looks good too, but needs to be steep enough to be able to rap it without touching, or have ropes rubbing on edges.
bradz
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2006 - 01:17am PT
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just an open question...
who here would not keep climbing after a life changing injury?
I ask because, I needed to put in ten years of work to get quads climbing and there still are not that many takers.. surely a few bad asses have broken their necks before me?
(sorry… para’s and amputees don't even come into same ballpark as quads, but put it into my head that it could be done)
thoughts? or maybe that is something too dread to ponder?
bz
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Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
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Mar 20, 2006 - 01:25am PT
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Once a year those nutty rappeller dudes set up a single line all the way from the top of El Cap to the bottom.
It might be totally cool to work with them on timing. They are always setting records and whatnot...like the fastest rap over a distance, the first tandem rap over a certain distance, etc. They'd probably love to be part of "The First Quad Rap" and get their rig in your video.
Anybody know who those guys are?
-Kate.
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 20, 2006 - 01:33am PT
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Friends of Pete's.
One guy once broke the record for the descent. He didn't look to good at the base.
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2006 - 02:26am PT
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Were did they setup?
Donny has pics!??
bz
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Mar 20, 2006 - 08:22am PT
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Hey brad,
Congrats on making a good life out of what you've got!
I dated a super quad a long time ago, so I kind of know what you go through every day, and my hat is off to you.
I'm a three time cancer survivor myself, current;y getting over the third surgery, and I climbed with a friend who still managed 5.11 as he was beginning to give in to terminal throat cancer, but I think you have us both on determination, daring, and spirit.
I'd offer to go with you, but I'll probably be mostly recovered again by then and just slow you guys down. I also probably whine too much, LOL.
About that autograph thing, I'm guessing you can write a little, as my old GF could, with a velcro contraption to hold the pen.
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the Fet
Trad climber
Loomis, CA
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Mar 20, 2006 - 01:06pm PT
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Hey Brad,
I would keep climbing after an injury, and the good thing is, that after having you as a pioneer, I wouldn't wallow is self pity for years. I'd say if Brad did it, I'll do it too, and not waste any time. And/or use it as inspiration to do other quad firsts. e.g. could a quad become a certified/solo sky diver? or build a cool skiing rig.
I think the reason you don't see quads climbing is the same reason you don't see many people doing rock climbing first ascents. Maybe 1 in 100 people would ever climb. Then 1 in 100 people will be into it enough to put up an FA, so 1 in 10,000 people might put up an FA.
So 1 in 100 people, times the percentage of people who are quads (? maybe 1 in 3000) So 1 in 300,000 people may do it. So there's maybe only 1000 people in the US who would even consider it, they just haven't heard of you yet :-)
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2006 - 08:15pm PT
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Hey, thanks.. was not fishing for complements, just know there are lots of climbers out there that have been injured or sick etc. Blind, amputees and many others.
Glad to hear more stories of people adapting to keep climbing. I wrote in my blog that there is nothing brave or courageous about adapting.. but the is cowardess choosing to not face obvious challenges, vertical or otherwise.
…About that autograph thing, I'm guessing you can write a little, as my old GF could, with a velcro contraption to hold the pen.
Yea, started there, but don’t need that a longer. I just weave the pen through my fingers.
... could a quad become a certified/solo sky diver? or build a cool skiing rig.
Well, I’ve jumped tandom twice. And thinking about a design for a solo rig so I can land.
Is why my summer plans look are at fly BC
Ski thing as been worked out long ago, but is still not easy for quads. need trunk and triceps to really pull that off.
bz
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Ouch!
climber
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Mar 21, 2006 - 08:56pm PT
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"One guy once broke the record for the descent. He didn't look to good at the base."
Werner, was he trying to break a record?
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2006 - 09:11pm PT
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was he injured, or...?
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 22, 2006 - 09:18pm PT
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No he didn't try to break any records. He goofed stetting up his brake bar rappel and shot down 3000 feet on the rope at high speed.
He died .......... oops.
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2006 - 10:16pm PT
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Looks like a wild ride down... better than the ledges in my mind!
Is the south sea's so steap the rope would not need to be anchored at the base?
thnxs
bz
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2006 - 12:40am PT
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Squamish Film Fest...
Our film plays on Saturday!
[url="http://www.verticalchallenge.org/images/misc/filmfest.jpg"][/url]
get Tix at:
The Fringe Cafe
3124 Brdway West
Vancouver, BC V6K2H3
(604) 738-6977
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Jacob
Trad climber
wetodd ville ca
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Jul 22, 2006 - 01:42am PT
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if a blind person can climb elcap and everest then why the hell not a quad!!! go for it and dont let anything get in your way! get the whole thing on film, it will be in my personal library and millions of other climbers as well.
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2006 - 07:09pm PT
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First off… Let me say that having our film in the mix with Croft, Trotter, Bachar and Sharma is very daunting. These guys are well recognized, world class climbers. So, how did I wind up in the same festival? I guess it helps if the event organizer is also the director of film!
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2006 - 09:57pm PT
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Peter's show was great.. Sonny's was inspired! Cobra Crack goes free on gear at 14b/c! Plus Bachar's film too!
great show, visit:
http://www.squamishfilm.com/
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Aug 11, 2006 - 05:20am PT
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Is the south sea's so steap the rope would not need to be anchored at the base?
If you mean anchroing to pull the rope away from the wall...
no. pretty sure not.
It should hang plumb to the deck. I was told (while sitting in the meadow) that the fellas I was watching do it had the rope tied to one of the trees just out from the base of the alcove.
I'd want to be the first one down I think. I guess if you don't go the perfect speed, or stop you could burn the rope...YIKES!
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2006 - 07:12pm PT
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Damn dude how can you even ask that question?.....
You belong..
oh man.. I get some pretty critical 'feedback' from my website. Guys saying I have no biz being up there etc...
Click here to see intro to our film
That's why I was so glad that Croft and Sonny were accepting of the project. Kudos from those guys means allot.
What do you kids think? stick to the sidewalks? would you? I remember watching Mark Wellman in videos thinking I’d do anything to get back on the rocks too!
bz
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Aug 19, 2006 - 06:34pm PT
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Yeah, you'll stick to the sidewalk...after you CRATER! Ar ar ar
IMHO, everyone is a risk or a liability on a wall at some point...some people just get there sooner, is all. If I was a quad headed up on the big stone, I'd make damn sure I had a big pile of warm stuff to burrito up in in case the weather went south.
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Kristoffer
Big Wall climber
Blue Jay, California
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Aug 19, 2006 - 09:56pm PT
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nice brad, looks like its going to be a good film...
so have you decided when and what you going to send?
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2007 - 09:30pm PT
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hello all... and update.
We'll be in the valley last week of sept, into oct if needed. We'll be doing zodiac in a push. If you would like to help, we'll certainly be in need. (might be just carrying a pack, but it all adds up)
Our film is playing again.. this time at vimff.org
It is less climbing and more father son story, but I'll give away the end -- we get to the top after ten years of work.
Elcap film will be more like murderball, but on a big wall.
Kris .. will you still be on ship then?
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Kristoffer
Big Wall climber
Blue Jay, California
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Hey what’s up Brad! Umm I don’t know if im going to be out on the high seas or not at that time, I just got deployed to a new helo squadron so things up in the air for now, but if I can I’ll try and make it there and monkey around with you dudes.
Ohhhhahhh!
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2007 - 11:52pm PT
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Quadriplegic Climbs Website
hi, we will be on CBC Radio on this thursday at about 12:30 - 1 PM PST talking about the film.. tune in if you can.
cheers,
brad
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nvrws
climber
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Feb 15, 2007 - 08:25pm PT
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My god that is a formidable task.. My questions would relate to:
1)skin: how do you prevent breakdown given harnesses etc.
2)Autonomic dysreflexia: seems like an almost forgone conclusion, how do you deal with it.
My assumption is that you are a partial quad with some function. Having said that, I think the best time for an el cap trip would be late spring or early fall. This would avoid the extreme heat which I would think, would lead to significant sci type problems.
good luck and right on!
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2007 - 12:12am PT
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hi...
yup... skin and Autonomic dysreflexia are big issues.. but the rig is just like a regular wheelchair seating system, so.. does not matter if it is 2 feet, or 2000 feet off the deck.
climbing in late sept to avoid heat, exactly.
you must know a quad?
brad
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L
climber
The City of Lost Angels
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Feb 16, 2007 - 03:06pm PT
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Bump for Matt M
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2007 - 05:45pm PT
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matt m?
matt maddaloni?
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kev
climber
CA
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Feb 17, 2007 - 05:15pm PT
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bump - this is climbing related....
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2007 - 12:29am PT
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just a noteworthy email from Kris...
-----------------------------------------
oh yeah, when i was watching your movie something was said about you not being able to sweat, have you looked into adding a small mister to your rig that could feed a constant light spray through out the hot sections of the day.. it get SCORTCHING hot on the Capitan… especially if the route you intend on climbing leads you through some of the black stone up there.
very nice dude. that will be a killer send. man, i have to hand it to you, even when i repel a pitch to go down and clean it i HATE jugging back up to my top anchor and i get to brace my feet against the rock some of the time and it still sucks. but dude, your going to be hanging out in space for the majority of those 16 pitches, all spinning around as the wind blows and what not... that sh#t is creepy and a killer on the elbows, i have one word for you SUFFERING! yeahhh dude, proud!
after talking about all of this free hanging jugging something crossed my mind, you guys must bring a fare amount of chaff padding and maybe even a rescue/rigging pulley, you know the ones that you put on sharp ledges/edges that have a small metal stand that supports a pulley so the rope does not rub on the sharp edge of the rock.
there is nothing scarier that jugging wile your rope rubs up and down on an edge slowly cutting through the mantel and core wile it makes a damn noise like a guitar string.. consider this be for you go if you already haven’t.
cheers.
--------------------------
he is totally right, we use a huge pulley, but still going to make plastic wings on it to help keep it from twisting.
brad
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2007 - 01:46am PT
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Will Play in flagstaffmountainfilms.com fest..
Back to the Wall (Canada, 2006, 22 min)
Showing:
Saturday 10:00 AM, March 10th
Thursday 7:00 PM, March 08th
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Feb 26, 2007 - 03:26pm PT
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Bradzz: "...a rescue/rigging pulley, you know the ones that you put on sharp ledges/edges that have a small metal stand that supports a pulley so the rope does not rub on the sharp edge of the rock."
You mean an 'edge roller'.
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2007 - 08:32pm PT
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not an:
but a bigger framed pulley.. a Prusik Minding Pulley
with some care, the pulley will be almost free hanging from the stations, and away from the rock. The wings help stop it from twisting too. We need the largest diameter we can get tho.. and might make a custom set of wings for the big rescue pulley we have now.
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
El Cap
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Feb 27, 2007 - 02:45am PT
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I just watched your video Brad... sorry it took so long. ;)
I'M IN!! Very inspiring!
It'll be good to see Chris again and climb and meet you guys. You look super strong! You should ditch the metal and wheels, though... haa haa. Light and fast, you are strong!
You should meet my buddy Sean O'Neill.
I hope to help to make your dream come true, brotha.....
Cheers matey!!
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2007 - 10:10pm PT
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Light and fast agreed.. we started out the way the paras can climb.. but the seating has to be more supportive for me to breath and have clean pulls. But, we are cutting weight all the time.
Have been in touch with sean – mostly about getting back down!
End of sept.. will plan for two weeks there.
Thanks, bz
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
El Cap
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Feb 28, 2007 - 03:43pm PT
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Gotcha! The wheels won't be touching the wall 90% of the wall. Are they easily removable?
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Apocalypsenow
Trad climber
Cali
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Feb 28, 2007 - 03:53pm PT
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105 responses! Strange...simple, contact the one expert on this topic Mark Wellman.
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
El Cap
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Feb 28, 2007 - 04:48pm PT
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Yes, Mark is one of the pioneers of climbing El Cap as a handicapped person.
But, every injury has its own set of unique complications. Trust me, this is not as simple as just doing several thousand pull-ups (if you want to call that simple) to get to the top. There is a LOT of factors that you wouldn’t even consider unless you were the handicapped climber.
Mark came out and helped with Sean O’Neill’s ascent last year and let him use some of his gear. Their injuries are more similar to each others and we could adopt some of his techniques, but not all of them.
Each climber is different. I’m looking forward to learning and contributing to your ascent, Brad.
Cheers!
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NickD
climber
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Feb 28, 2007 - 04:56pm PT
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Brad,
Much respect to you . . .
On the BASE side we have a fellow named Russel who's working on his BASE award. He, like you, is an inspiration to a lot of folks . . .
Here's photos and vids of Russel.
http://www.zerop.net/pbase.htm
NickD
BASE 194
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
El Cap
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Feb 28, 2007 - 05:32pm PT
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"But, having worked in the ropes course field for 16 years, I find it all pretty simple."
Tom, you’re joking, right? That is a very elitist comment. Yes, the mechanics is the easy part. Have you ever climbed with a paraplegic? It’s NOT simple! Brad’s ascent will be one of the most complicated ascents in history. No quad has ever attempted such an ascent.
I’m not going into details for privacy reasons but here’s something to think about. The every day “simple” things we do….. is not that “simple” for a para or quad, on the ground. Those not so simple things…. gets magnified when you’re climbing a wall, as you know too well.
No disrespect, it’s just that your comment is very obvious and shows no depth in what is involved in such and undertaking.
BTW - Brad has contacted Mark… but of course.
Nice post Nick!! Yep, these guys deserve HUGE props!!
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Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
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Feb 28, 2007 - 06:20pm PT
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"Simple" things like getting a drink of water or wiping your ass?
I don't see anything simple about what Brad is trying to do.
Way to go Ammon for helping out!
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Apocalypsenow
Trad climber
Cali
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Feb 28, 2007 - 06:27pm PT
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Ammon, I have nothing but respect for you as a climber and a person. But this is not an "elitist comment."
We are all, "physically challenged" (ok, maybe not Bachar or Largo) but all of the rest of us are. It is simply how to overcome these phyical challenges, being you might have a bad knee, or no use or your legs.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 28, 2007 - 06:43pm PT
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I know Brad fairly well. He's a man of great spirit and energy, and I hope he's safe and successful on El Cap in September.
Brad's determined not to allow his disabilities to limit him any more than necessary. That said, for him to safely climb El Cap, he'll need to do things that work for him. Meticulous preparation and precautions are essential - his safety margin is much different. He tried to ascend the Grand Wall at Squamish three or four times before he succeeded, being defeated by equipment problems (mainly weight), and once by great heat. El Cap is three times the scale, or more.
His physiological abilities and needs are different, and there's no big wall manual for quadriplegics, each of whom has unique characteristics. Brad's preparations will probably be an order of magnitude more thorough than those of a typical El Capitan climber.
Edit: I saw the film about Brad's ascent of the Grand Wall at the recent Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival. It's called "Back to the Wall" - well worth watching. It even has some footage of Brad climbing pre-injury.
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
El Cap
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Feb 28, 2007 - 06:56pm PT
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“It is simply how to overcome these phyical challenges, being you might have a bad knee, or no use or your legs.”
You are trivializing his disabilities by making this comparison. Physical challenges have their degree of difficulty. Brad’s is high on the list.
I think the important thing here is not “how” to overcome these physical challenges…. But, that someone with disabilities is willing to TRY to overcome them.
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
El Cap
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Feb 28, 2007 - 07:06pm PT
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Thanks for your post Mighty Hiker... Yep, that was the same film I just saw. Very inspiring stuff. I'm going to watch it again tonight.
Edit- I gave thanks to MH, not for backing me up, but for giving me further insight about Brad. I only know him through emails for the last several years, since he started planning this ascent.
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2007 - 09:02pm PT
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Yes that was covered really early in this thread. I know mark, talked with and met him few times.
The difference between Mark and I is so the core muscles and hand function. Basically apples and oranges.. but we tried to climb the way he does. Look on my website for that video.
Yes.. wheels pop on and off in seconds! And will have them off while free hanging. I’m much faster on free hanging pulling.
bz
(thanks for the support MH!)
NickD.. I'll be in touch, great stuff dude!
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2007 - 09:17pm PT
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Oh.. regarding the film, and different levels of ability.
Well, the first things cut from the film was the part detailing the difference between quads and paras.. it was considered boring. No one really cares about these differences -- they just see two guys in chairs, right?
Same thing for my friend warren -- he has no legs, and people ask him why he has not done Everest! Well, yes people with no feet have been up it – missing both legs above the knee is not the same as a guy missing a foot.
Getting the idea? I started out trying to pick up a bloody fork, and ten years later I want to climb El Cap. So, you might know Mark etc.. but you don’t know what you are talking about.
Ammon.. we’ll be down there in Sept.. and I’ll be in the best shape of my life and the gear be as light as it can be! Be awesome to crack a beer after getting off the Captain!
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
El Cap
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Feb 28, 2007 - 10:44pm PT
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Hey Brad, nice to hear your input, it will be good to have a beer ON The Captain, as well.
I know Tom and don’t think he meant any disrespect to you, or any disabled climber, for that matter. He is a smart man and thinks analytically, we all think differently. That might be why these forums attract us so much.
That’s cool the wheels snap right off. Any drag that can be avoided is good if the winds decide to show up. When you asked me a few years back and you said “’07”, I nearly laughed. I had no idea where I would be, or my schedule. Wow, here we are… in the now!
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Llama
Big Wall climber
Irvine, CA
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A beer on the Cap indeed! Yaharrr... can't wait for this! What an adventure, I'm definitely on board Brad.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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"We are all, "physically challenged" (ok, maybe not Bachar or Largo)"
Actually, John got in a bad car accident earlier this year and I've been busted up so many times I can't remember - not serious like John B. or anything like the quads climbing El Cap (incredible, ain't it), but there are no iron men out there that don't some day hobble down the road.
JL
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2007 - 11:24pm PT
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Hey Largo.. exactly what I was going to add. (can you send me your address, I’d like to send you a dvd for some feedback if you like)
I think most people don’t like to be reminded how easily we can be hurt. Who here doesn’t have a friend or family member with an injury/disability or say cancer? It can be totally random thing, or a freak accident. And when that sh*t goes down, attitude matters!.
Like my buddy Wayne.. if he listened ton dr’s he’d be on wheelz right now -- not climbing ElCap in a push. From my POV he is still pretty dam able bodied, but it his energy and love for climbing that I relate too first.. and the medical issues second.
I could give countless examples for both extremes. I’ve seen guys in rehab just let it all slide and hit the bottle hard. Ammon made the point above, it is the ambition and the effort that is noteworthy.
Enough shameless self promotion? Anyway, thanks for the responses and thoughts everyone
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2007 - 12:12am PT
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Valid form of assent?
I just put up a video from first interview -- some peopple 'get it'.. others not so much.
Chris Bio and video
or
blog
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2007 - 04:42pm PT
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Why no one takes me seriously I’ll never know!
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Wild Bill
climber
Ca
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Apr 11, 2007 - 05:08pm PT
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Hilarious, Brad.
Gotta say You rock!
Looking forward to a full trip report. Sounds like you have generated enough interest that dozens of people are now willing to go to the top and PUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUULLLLLLLLLLLLL you up. There you are, sipping your Mai Tai, you got your newspaper, you're enjoying the view from the Captain.
Think about it, could be sweet.
Bill
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2007 - 08:37pm PT
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Thanks for the words of encouragement.. but clearly you are missing the point. I’m not getting pulled up.. I’m working pretty hard actually.
Watch these, the one with Chris explains a lot.
http://www.youtube.com/bradzdanivsky
Anyway…I’m putting all my energy into this climb, and project … prolly doing more than most climbers do. (accepting more risk, and pushing limits of endurance) So, tonight, girth hitch your wrists and do few chin ups with RELAXED hands. That will give you some idea as to what it is like. After a few pitches it cause bleeding and nerve damage.
So, it is not a free ride and I can prolly beat you weekend warriors at an arm wrestle too. You know who you are.. top roping pussys that blog more than climb.
punk ass blogers that top rope in the gym
I’m getting a bit tired of defend this as a valid way of climbing from my own brethren, so if your going to talk smack – at least be informed.
or am I over reacting?
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reddirt
climber
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Apr 12, 2007 - 12:39am PT
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I think it's awesome that you have the will & ability to do so much.
I was discussing paraplegic athletes w/ my PT the other day & he noted that they have a much higher rate of shoulder injuries, especially degenerative ones.
I hope you continue to climb hard enough to accomplish your goals & soft enough to climb for many decades to come!
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Wild Bill
climber
Ca
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Apr 12, 2007 - 12:45am PT
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Overreacting, but that's cool. You probably get plenty of sh#t for this endeavor from people who don't believe it's 'real' climbing. I've been following this thread for a few months, I'm in your corner.
I was just saying you've inspired so many people, they would do just about anything, including heaving you up so you could kick back and relax. But that's just me projecting MY fantasy on you. Maybe I can join you, and they can haul ME up while I coach and supervise you?
But that wouldn't be 'real' vertical ditch digging, would it?
Cheers,
Bill
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Basilisk
Ice climber
New Hampshire
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Apr 12, 2007 - 07:08pm PT
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"So, tonight, girth hitch your wrists and do few chin ups with RELAXED hands"
This piqued my interest, so of course, I tried it. Maybe it's because I did it with 12mm tape, but it was absolutely absurd. Is this really what you do? If so, what size webbing do you use? The wider the better, I would think.
I tried doing it with with relaxed hands but couldn't really convince my body to do it (I can't say I have much talent in shutting down body parts). When I did try it with relaxed hands it was definitely harder though. It felt like it cut into my wrists a lot more.
Big ups. I can't even imagine the logistics behind all this
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2007 - 12:49am PT
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Good questions..
So, yes.. tiny bit of flexion on the right, grade 3 trisep, and really strong delts and bisceps, and some lats.
Left arm is a mess, and half the functionality. No tri’s, tiny bit of lats. No real wrist extension or flexion. (see cheese youtube video of my workout)
This imbalance causes all kinda of issues, but the pain from pulling is the most limiting. The splints I ware are pretty good, but it still puts all kinds of pressure on the thumbs. It feels like doing chin ups in hand cuffs. Because I can’t make a fist, it is like girth hitched wrist loops, I’m not kidding.
Radical… be great to get more medical people on the team. I’ll have too nurses but no DR.. will have all kinds on emerg stuff handy tho. Please drop me an email from the website to get on the crew list. Thanks.
Bill, sorry to go off on you.. I just get some knuckle heads telling me I have no business being up there and I’m just getting pulled up.
Some get it and really get jacked up to help – cuz they get it. They know they could have been the one to fall asleep at the wheel and be wanting to climb out of their wheelchairs. Guess who else died from falling asleep at the wheel? It can happen to anyone, even the best climbers in the world. People don’t like to be reminded that we can all be hurt. And maybe too chicken sh#t to do the hard work to get back onto the big stone.
Anyway.. thanks for the thoughts.. keep the thread alive, we need your support if we are going to raise the bar for climbers with disabilities.
Cheers,
b
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2007 - 05:21pm PT
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Show the Film in the Valley May 19th?
Hey, as much as I am starting to hate the doc about the Chief climb (seen it a few to maqny times now), we'd like to get a bunch of people together to show it at a pub, or hotel in the valley on the 19th or 20th -- anyone able to make iot?
The idea being to raise some awareness and support for the push end of Sept. (beers on us to anyone interested, will need all the help we can get from the locals)
Getting pumped to just go hang out under elcap for a few days, get scared, show some respect.... have some fun nights away from the city!
Thnxs,
brad
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Brad - People do slideshows, show films and such at a few locations in the valley all the time. I'm not sure who you'd talk to to set that up, but I'm sure someone here knows. Maybe Chicken Skinner (Ken Yager). He can be reached through the YCA at Yager@inreach.com. He's a really nice guy and I bet he can hook you up with the right folks... I think a lot of people would make it out for hte event. I'll come up for it.
Cheers!
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bradzz
Big Wall climber
vancouver canada
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2007 - 02:28am PT
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no one pick up on free beers the invite?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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keep us posted
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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Oct 13, 2007 - 08:17pm PT
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Any updates?
I believe Brad was shooting for September.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Oct 13, 2007 - 10:43pm PT
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hey there bradzz...
say, my friend in san jose, a quad, he came from the upper pennisula, in mich and made his first solo road trip, and as a young teen, against all wishes of fam and friends that said it couldnt or shouldnt be done--course, he "done it"
and has lived alone for near about 20 years... he has deteriorated more, as to shoulders, from such harsh use over the years, so:
he'd tell you to seek your dreams while you can, before you wear out your shoulders :)
for a title for your video showcase (or was it documentary?)
HE WOULD PICK:
So a Quad climbed a rock
(COURSE, that is his sense of humor... as he'd call his own trip: So a Quad Kid Drove Across Counrty)
me, i'd pick:
rocks to roll (instead of rock and roll, as it would encompass the vision of future rocks, as well)
god bless... hope you and your dreams are doing well
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bradthatclimbs
Big Wall climber
vancouver, bc, canada
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Nov 27, 2007 - 10:57pm PT
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Hi, still here...
We camped in the Valley last summer (Chris and Graeme did the Zodiac), pics here:
[url="http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=8112&l=ac0a3&id=689350518"]trip pics[\url]
Gym rigging pics:
And getting ready to do big lower outs on ElCap here:
Thoughts?
brad
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 27, 2007 - 11:06pm PT
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Somehow I think it would be nice to have Brad's ascent happen during the FaceLift in September 2008, if he hasn't already done it by then, and conditions allow.
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bradthatclimbs
Big Wall climber
vancouver, bc, canada
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Nov 28, 2007 - 07:08pm PT
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Humm, usually you guys go crazy for rigging diagrams -- anything about look questionable?
bz
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rhyang
Ice climber
SJC
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Nov 28, 2007 - 07:14pm PT
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I'm rooting for you Brad !
(incomplete C4 tetraplegic as of this past August)
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Nov 29, 2007 - 12:30am PT
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hey there nice to hear your still "out and about" your buisness... i reckon this a bump, in a way, for newest question... thanks for letting us all know how you are... god bless....
sure dont know nothing about diagrams--but i can say this---colors sure HELP keep things clear :)
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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Nov 29, 2007 - 12:29pm PT
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On the second diagram it seems it would be either 2:1 or 3:1 advantage, but it says 1:1 solid lines or 3:1 dashed lines.
On the third diagram you have a rope coming off the rigging plate on the rig to the backup/tension rope. I wonder if you could/should replace that section of rope with a solid 'stabilizing arm' that could bolt on or attach to the rig somehow. You'd have greater leverage to keep the rig from spinning.
e.g. the yellow line
It may also keep the lines farther apart so they don't get tangled up.
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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Nov 29, 2007 - 01:47pm PT
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The new rig looks sweet.
For names:
Air Chair (unfortuneatly this is already a water skiing thing)
Pig Rig (pig like a haul bag)
Smart Cart
Pain Train
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bradthatclimbs
Big Wall climber
vancouver, bc, canada
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Nov 29, 2007 - 07:23pm PT
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Hi, yes.. the way the green tension line attaches to the rigging plate does not show all the details actually.
Will post that soon, but here is the local 2:1 I've been trying out. When the friction gets bad, need to gear down so my wrists don't start bleeding!
brad
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bradthatclimbs
Big Wall climber
vancouver, bc, canada
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Does anyone know how I could get my hands on footage of the infamous dolt cart?
I've seen bits of footage, and would love to compare it to my rig.
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rhyang
Ice climber
SJC
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That looks like a 5:1 mechanical advantage system, if I'm not mistaken (ala crevasse rescue).
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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I wonder if rather than having a 2:1 mechanical advantage system built with rope/pulleys you could use a lever instead.
It would be more efficient since you wouldn't lose energy due to rope stretch and friction. It also might require less resetting, i.e. someone adjusting the ropes every X number of feet on the 2:1 system.
You could possibly adjust the leverage in small increments by sliding the handle along the lever.
One disadvantage may be the potential for repetitive motion injury. A rope allows play so your joints aren't doing the exact same move everytime, while the lever would probably keep everything aligned.
Here's an idea for a simple 2nd class lever. In reality you'd need the distance between the hinge (the fulcrum) and the rope clamp (the load) to be smaller, so you'd have more mechanical advantage than illustrated.
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bradthatclimbs
Big Wall climber
vancouver, bc, canada
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Yes, very cool idea, thanks.
I'm pulling pretty hard these days, but need to have a 2nd gear if needed.
I'll do a drawing of it soon... but, the lever/hinge could be an inverted wall hauler on the rope (on the other side of the minitrax.
thanks,
b
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paganmonkeyboy
climber
mars...it's near nevada...
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"Next time I'll speed solo it with out any extra water ok?"
Brad -
Yer sick. Totally inspiring. Kick ass and take names...
-Tom
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bradthatclimbs
Big Wall climber
vancouver, bc, canada
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so, no wall hauler spring to beat, just the weight of the ti bloc and biener. So, the blue cord just needs a little spring (bungee cord) to have it return after each pull.
kicker is.. remember touching the void? Well, my hands are as bad as when Joe needed to jug the rope. I need to be able to, "change gears", quickly on the route.
getting closer to a solution.
Oh, and yes, that is 5:1 above.
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WBraun
climber
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Stop using that mini-traxion and rope thing, (forgot what it's called),(top piece), for this type of application.
The teeth on them are two sharp. The mini-traxion's pulley wheel is very small and you lose a lot of efficiency.
There's better and safer alternatives for the application you are seeking.
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bradthatclimbs
Big Wall climber
vancouver, bc, canada
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The "ti bloc" teeth you mean? I weight the thing slowly, it does not the rope like it would if you were jugging with it.
the mini-trax is not the pulley -- its just used as a cam there, as the rope passes straight through the rig. So, the pulley diameter is an issue at the station, not on my end.
thoughts?
thanks,
brad
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bradthatclimbs
Big Wall climber
vancouver, bc, canada
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The plan is for May -- but changes on schedules with peoples work. (film crews etc)
Would be good to be there for face lift to meet people in person.
brad
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bradthatclimbs
Big Wall climber
vancouver, bc, canada
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Does anyone have pictures, maps or video of the hike from the summit (zodaic) to the flats?
thanks,
brad
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Ed Koala
Trad climber
Banchory
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Jul 24, 2013 - 08:46am PT
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Was this project completed? I'm starting to look into something similar ...
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Crazy Bat
Sport climber
Birmingham, AL & Seweanee, TN
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Jul 24, 2013 - 05:26pm PT
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I've been told there will be another very very long rope rigged from El Cap next year. PM me and I will see if I can hook you up with them for a teathered rappel.
Sorry I didn't notice the date of the original posting. If anybody else is interested let me know.
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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
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Jul 24, 2013 - 05:49pm PT
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If I remember correctly, they ended up bailing but the system was working... but I could be wrong.
Edit: But, I think he succeeded on The Cheif.
Sending PM, Ed
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So a Quad climbed a rock
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