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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 27, 2011 - 05:01pm PT
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It's another warm day in Vegas! Love it here, even when it's too warm to climb - at least for us softcore types.
Thought it would be cool to start a thread for RR photos, stories and what have you.
In addition - any Tacoites that are coming to the Vegas area, feel free to contact us! My girl and I would love to meet up and climb with you, or at least get together for brews and BS.
I will start it off with this pic that Cosmic took of me, I will add some more later when I dig them up off of my other computer!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 27, 2011 - 07:13pm PT
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Aug 27, 2011 - 07:18pm PT
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In vegas today. Been warm here!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 27, 2011 - 07:21pm PT
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The Hex Files
Cat In The Hat
Olive Oil
takes all types, pad-people head out the Black Velvet Canyon
Crude Boys
Prince of Darkness
Lotta Balls
Solar Slab
Heavy Spider Karma
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Aug 27, 2011 - 07:31pm PT
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I love Red Rocks! Along with Yosemite sans the Meadows, Incredible Hulk, Squamish and Index, one of my favorite venues West of the Rockies.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Aug 27, 2011 - 09:25pm PT
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I went there with Richard Harrison when we were seniors in High School and climbed with Joe Herbst, the original pioneer, and stayed with Joe and his wife Betsy (RIP) in an old trailer. The place was like the end of the world. Only one poor dirt road. Hardly any routes. Did my first long route there and almost perished in a snow storm. It was WILD back then with crap gear and PAs.
Some years later I was there with Lynn Hill and we freed Levitation 29 and were wondering all the way up how odd it was clipping all those bolts. That might be the first large scale sport route (basically a clip and go all the way) on earth. It felt like cheating at the time - but what a novel experience for 1980 (I think).
Richard went back there and cleaned up with Paul Van Batten and Sal. One of my most memorable days was making the on-sight FA of Mt. Wilson with on rope. It turned out to be moderate (5.10b) but there was no getting off it.
Always high adventure at RR.
JL
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Aug 27, 2011 - 09:52pm PT
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For this country anyway, long climbs like the Red Rock routes are something of a rarity, making Red Rock a unique destination for U.S. climbers. I love it and wish my schedule enabled me to get out there just a little later in March or early April; I seem to catch the wintry side of spring when I've been able to visit.
Here is a link to my Super Topo trip report (lots of photos).
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Aug 27, 2011 - 10:25pm PT
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I'm with Rgold, what I love is that when it is total crap weather up here, RR is perfect.
Couple of Epinephrine shots:
Ujahn on the Epi chimneys
Upper area above the Elephants trunk
Interesting wildlife
Bighorn Sheep
Burro on the drive out
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2011 - 11:46pm PT
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Thanks for sharing everyone!
Ed, I love that panorama shot. Awesome!
JL, thanks for chiming in :) I'd love to hear some more stories about you and Lynn climbing here. One of my climbing partners, Wendell Broussard, climbed with you a bit in those days as well I think.
I remember hearing about the snowstorm, but a full account here would be a treat.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Aug 27, 2011 - 11:48pm PT
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Those are great pics and a fine write-up, Rich. Jubilant Song was my first long route and first time I placed a wired nut. Wild to see those shots. That's an intimidating bit pulling up to that big roof and arcing out right.
JL
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2011 - 04:25am PT
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HAHAHHAHAHAAAAA!!!
NICE one Cosmic!!
Here's another nice shot of the area :)
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gary connors
Sport climber
avondale , pa.
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Aug 28, 2011 - 08:33am PT
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gary connors
Sport climber
avondale , pa.
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Aug 28, 2011 - 08:35am PT
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tooth
Trad climber
The Best Place On Earth
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Aug 28, 2011 - 10:38am PT
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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Aug 28, 2011 - 10:50am PT
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I was just climbing in N.H., with George and Joanne Urioste. Hadn't seen them in 43 years! They sure put up some classics out there in RR!
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Aug 28, 2011 - 02:19pm PT
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steveA:
A couple of weeks ago I got a full day in at Cathedral. First time climbing there in about 30 years. It was nothing less than glorious, I had a perfect day.
Driving home I realized how much my western adventures had paled my appreciation for N.E climbing. There is good reason for the plethora of great climbing memories I have from back east.
~~~~~~~~~~
Red Rock is not the ultimate be all/end all...
But you got'a love it!
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Aug 28, 2011 - 02:58pm PT
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First time there for me was 86. My first Desert trip. I was scared to death of rattler snakes but never did get to see one on that trip. Free legal camping up in Black velvet canyon. Did POD with a bar napkin topo that I think Mike kenedy gave is a week or so earlier in CO. What an amazeing route that was at the time for us. Did not even know that all those 1/4" split shaft studs were death bombs in sandstone.. There was this cool piece of angle iron as a roadsign bolted to the rock where POD split from dream Of Wild Turkeys. That was an amazeing week on an amazeing roadtrip.. been back a few times but not able to match the majic of that first trip..
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Sergio Colombo
Mountain climber
Red Rock
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Aug 28, 2011 - 03:51pm PT
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I feel very lucky to live only 10 minutes from Red Rock, I can climb there pretty much anytime and anyday. It is a place that I can never get enough of. Sitting on top of the Calico Hills and admiring the views is simply breathtaking.
I just got back from an early climbing session, 7-11am. It was nice and cool enough. And now it's 110F in town.
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Sergio Colombo
Mountain climber
Red Rock
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Aug 28, 2011 - 09:41pm PT
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Hey Sergio, You should give me a call sometime so we can go climbing.
I think you have my phone number.
I do but I have to dig for it. Send me an email and I'll call you.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Aug 28, 2011 - 11:47pm PT
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Sergio - cool to see that you are getting out to RR as usual! See if you can recognize the guy in these pix...
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Sherri
Trad climber
WA
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Aug 29, 2011 - 02:11am PT
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2011 - 02:35am PT
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Sherri, that's awesome! Thanks for sharing.
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argus
Trad climber
Vegas
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Aug 29, 2011 - 01:24pm PT
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Nice shot Tooth, I've seen at least 4 photo shoots like that in Red Rock. Typically they don't have as many clothes on though.
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Sergio Colombo
Mountain climber
Red Rock
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Aug 29, 2011 - 03:27pm PT
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Sergio - cool to see that you are getting out to RR as usual! See if you can recognize the guy in these pix...
Oh yeah, he does look very familiar......
Still kicking ass as usual.....Can't keep up with him.....
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thedogfather
Trad climber
Somewhere near Red Rocks
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Aug 29, 2011 - 05:36pm PT
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When brassnuts comes to Vegas I get to do the best of the best.
And one of Sergio on The Great Red Book
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Sergio Colombo
Mountain climber
Red Rock
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Aug 29, 2011 - 06:43pm PT
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I forgot about that one, nice shot Dogfather......
Oh sh#t, it sure looks like a long run out though......:)
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thedogfather
Trad climber
Somewhere near Red Rocks
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Aug 30, 2011 - 12:10am PT
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The incomparable phantomfugitive's Red Rock rendition
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Bob Harrington
climber
Bishop, California
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Aug 30, 2011 - 01:25am PT
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That shot of Challenger is great - he looks psyched!
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Aug 30, 2011 - 09:01am PT
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Dreaming of big sandstone routes before I head into cubeland for the day...
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2011 - 08:44pm PT
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Here are a few more - keep up the great shots, all!
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Aug 30, 2011 - 08:55pm PT
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Appreciate this.
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Aug 30, 2011 - 09:06pm PT
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Hey, Cosmic. Maybe in October.
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2011 - 10:59pm PT
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I can appreciate that! We have our fair share of climbers here who look like that.
I have one former partner who used to dance at Crazy Horse, and one current partner who is.....very well endowed thanks to modern medicine.
Gotta love it.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Aug 30, 2011 - 11:03pm PT
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Sergio Colombo
Mountain climber
Red Rock
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Aug 31, 2011 - 12:17am PT
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Appreciate this. How couldn't I?? I want to marry her today.
I can appreciate that! We have our fair share of climbers here who look like that. huh? where? I must have been hanging out with the wrong crowds....
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Red Rockin bump!
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Snorky
Trad climber
Carbondale, CO
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Feb 24, 2012 - 11:27pm PT
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 24, 2012 - 11:32pm PT
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Super place, love it! Camping sucks but at least it's better than Yosemite.
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Snorky
Trad climber
Carbondale, CO
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Feb 24, 2012 - 11:48pm PT
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Agree. Gotta do something about that camping... Someone needs to open a climber's ranch down there in Blue Diamond or nearby. Maybe I'll try to occupy a foreclosed condo in Summerlin.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 24, 2012 - 11:51pm PT
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Yeah... I don't think that approaching grid is going to advance much in the near future.
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MH2
climber
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Feb 25, 2012 - 11:53pm PT
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From a visit in '86 or '87:
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2012 - 06:50pm PT
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Glad to see this thread is still alive!
Totally cool shots everyone! Thanks for sharing.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Feb 28, 2012 - 07:45pm PT
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Sweet Lycra MH2
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Feb 28, 2012 - 10:57pm PT
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Epinephrine has to be my favorite route of all time.
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sensi
climber
vegas
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RED ROCK wide bump
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213
climber
Where the Froude number often >> 1
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Thin to Wyde, stellar from bottom to top!
Wandering out for an afternoon book reading session.
Sendin' it!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Oct 25, 2012 - 03:03pm PT
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Hey Brass, we caught the same boulder! Can't miss it eh? So beautiful.
The camping spot Donini hasn't used....HA!!
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RP3
Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
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Oct 25, 2012 - 03:18pm PT
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Good lord I love that place!
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 26, 2012 - 01:39am PT
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Thanks for the bump all, and the great shots!
Man, I wanna go climbing...this doctor imposed no climbing stuff really sucks. Been keeping really busy with SAR stuff the last few weeks though so that helps make up for it.
Keep up the awesome shots, please!
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telemon01
Trad climber
Montana
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Oct 26, 2012 - 02:17am PT
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Our family really enjoys hanging out at Red Rock
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Nov 21, 2012 - 10:07am PT
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This is part of an email Rick Sylvester posted to me the other day after I mentioned going to visit CosmicCragsman/Tripod--
The reason I love climbing and mountaineering, rock and mountains is that just when you think you've experienced everything, and feel that way even though by then you should know better, you encounter something new. Crystal Crag's top was an example of that.
Another was Dark Secrets, a popular itinerary. Something like 2 or 3 pitches up, following a corner crack but with plentiful face holds, I realized the rock was pure bronze in color. Now I'd experienced the black outer hard, and slippery as ice or glass, veneer on Wingate sandstone before. But bronze! I mean it was like the stuff you dip baby shoes in and hang from your car's rearview mirror.
So if you get on this route you have that to look forward to. And no one had ever mentioned that to me either re. Red Rocks. I don't know if there's more or that route's an anomaly, but enjoy.--RS
After viewing these pix I see what he's seen, I think.
Travis and Christina, have a good holiday. You too Dwain.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Nov 21, 2012 - 11:05am PT
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I have asked this before, but does anyone know about the splitter crack several hundred feet long that is above and a couple hundred feet to the left at the top of Lotta Balls? I can see that it has been climbed, and just curious about the grade and any other info. Looks very tasty, and its not in any of the guidebooks.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Nov 23, 2012 - 02:28pm PT
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Yes, Kick in the Balls, that must be the climb. Thank you. Looks like a great climb, and hearing about the loose blocks, interesting..
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jan 17, 2013 - 01:01pm PT
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Love The Fox.....Warrior this Spring. The only thing RR needs is better camping.
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2013 - 01:17pm PT
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Nice shots WML! Thanks for sharing. Hoping to get out Saturday and resume trad climbing finally. Been on the sidelines too long.
I can't do the hard stuff, but I think Chips N Salsa has my name on it this weekend.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 25, 2013 - 07:51pm PT
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Ahhhhhhhhhhh yes, I love red rocks, a great place to climb on gear & lose all your crack technique. Amenities, weather, bouldering, multipitch, sport, 10 lifetimes of rock. Yep, one of my favorite areas.
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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May 25, 2013 - 08:12pm PT
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Wait, what? you mean there is climbing there?
Who knew?
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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May 25, 2013 - 08:28pm PT
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Sweltering oak choked choss sounds gnar gnar. How many crash pads will it take to climb Mt. Wilson?
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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May 25, 2013 - 08:35pm PT
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So can you set those crash pads up for me?
By the way nice pics WML.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 25, 2013 - 08:53pm PT
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Aha I knew I had one. Topless, beanied & tattooed- yikes you'd think I was bouldering.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Feb 23, 2014 - 02:21pm PT
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Feb 26, 2014 - 08:35pm PT
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Remember the old camping scene?
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Feb 26, 2014 - 08:45pm PT
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One night a humid hot breeze awoke me from a sound slumber.
My eye opened to the view up a burrow's nostril.
my stir startled him.
He brayed.
I did not know that it is possible for the human body to levitate a foot off solid ground while in a completely horizontal position.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Feb 26, 2014 - 08:53pm PT
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The Wilson CG sucked, but the car camping out by Black Velvet was primo,
except for the Burros.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Feb 26, 2014 - 09:03pm PT
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The spot pictured was right off the road, the start of the old road to the Pimple.
In the early to mid 90s, when I was spending time there, it was cool, BLM freeforall. BV camping was sweet, just a little too far from the Gallery :-)
When this spot got the axe it was on to the Gypsum mine. Shitty.
I hadn't been back in years, since all the "improvements". That new campground sucks ass.
Lovell or motel is where it's at, it seems.
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Splater
climber
Grey Matter
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Feb 26, 2014 - 10:49pm PT
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First went there in about 1986 or 87 when we got rained out of Yosemite. The Urioste guide was out, but we only saw a few other climbers. Met the Dean, climbed Chicken Eruptus, watched Jenni doing the splits on some steep nearby crack, did Dream of wild turkeys, slept in a silt-storm at Black Velvet - got covered in fine red dust even inside car. On later trips with a van, we often camped along the old dirt road that went north from the flood control basin, across Charleston from the shooting range. Pre-Summerlin it was open desert. Recently did Jubilant Song & lot's more great routes still to do!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Oct 25, 2014 - 10:56pm PT
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Bump
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Oct 26, 2014 - 02:19am PT
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RIP
.....RH
,.,,,,,,,,BUMP
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Steven Hughes
climber
Rooseville, MT
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Dec 28, 2015 - 02:39pm PT
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kid friendly climbing at red rocks
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Dec 28, 2015 - 06:02pm PT
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Gobi
Trad climber
Orange CA
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Dec 28, 2015 - 06:16pm PT
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I love Red Rocks! I just wrote this a few days ago and thought I'd share it here. Sorry for the poor grammar and spelling.
An epic after work adventure
I had spent the winter living in Las Vegas with my girl friend Taleen. We had a cheap place away from the strip and I had a part time job working at The Red Rock Casino. The job sucked but it was by far the best winter I had ever spent. Red Rocks is a world class climbing destination. It offers some of the tallest sandstone rock climbs around. Many of these climbs involve long approaches and soring faces that take most of the day (or longer) to climb. It’s a desert environment that insures fantastic adventure. This past winter I realized many of these all day climbs could be done a lot quicker if I was willing to climb them alone without a rope. It just so happened my work schedule allowed me to get off at 3pm. That offered a perfect opportunity for epic after work adventure!!!
The day started off pretty normal. I was stacking food shipments in the massive kitchen of the Red Rock Casino trying to figure out what I was going to do after work. If I got out late I would probably do some gym training but if I got out on time I would probably run up a short multi pitch route in one of the canyons. However, it just so happened that on that day the manager let me out an hour early. This was unexpected and I was filled with sudden excitement as I realized that maybe I could do something a bit longer! I walked out into the parking lot and looked out west toward the massive sandstone mountains of Red Rocks. There stood Mount Wilson, the proudest rock face of them all. You can see it from anywhere Vegas, a massive mountain of stone that towers two thousand feet above the desert floor. Pine trees sprout out from the few rock ledges on the face and it holds bits of snow for most of the winter. I glanced at the clock and it showed 2:15. Could I possibly go round trip before it got dark? It was game on!
I raced my car down the desert highway after grabbing some cliff bars at the grocery store. The temps were perfect and there was a pleasant breeze in the air. I pulled the Civic into the dirt lot and threw my shoes and chalk bag into a small pack. The east face of Mount Wilson is massive and I couldn’t help but feel a little intimidated as I set off down the trail. I decided that I would climb Inti Watana and then take the upper part of The Resolution Arête to the summit. It’s certainly one of the longest sandstone climbs in the world. The approach to the base is extremely long and complicated so I maintained a slow jog so as not to waste time getting lost. After an hour of trail jogging and technical gully scrambling I was at the base of the route. Inti Watana goes straight up the center of this massive tower that leans out from the main mountain. It gets steeper and more narrow as the tower sores hundreds of feet up. At the very top its only about 20 feet across and overhangs just slightly. It’s a thousand feet of small juggy crimps. Crack systems pop up here and there but most of the route is face climbing. I hesitated at the base for just a moment and thought that if I was going to bail this was my last chance. Once I started climbing I was committed to the summit. I touched the stone and looked up. After taking a deep breath I was off.
The climbing went super smooth. I didn’t race up the route but rather maintained a steady pace. I would occasionally stop and admire the spectacular exposure the climbing offered and then be off again. The climbing got better and better the higher up I went. On the last hundred feet I could hardly believe where I was. The position was amazing. A cool wind swept up from the base of the mountain and offered a cold but refreshing chill. The air felt colder in the higher elevation. After an hour of climbing I pulled over the top of the tower. The view was incredible and I couldn’t have been more psyched. I was on schedule but certainly not at the top. Hundreds of feet junky terrain guarded the summit. This was the upper portion of The Resolution Arete. The rock was awful and the climbing was very easy to get lost on. I’m pretty sure I was off route almost the entire time. After almost an hour of wondering I was on the summit.
The 360 view was spectacular and it almost felt like I was in the high mountains. The shadows of the massive cliffs stretched far east across the desert floor. The watch showed 6 pm. I was still on schedule. The decent seemed to go on forever and ever. It’s extremely complicated and easy to get lost. It was very quite and I felt completely along amongst the huge cliffs that grew dim in the fading light. By the time I had popped out of First Creek Canyon the sun had almost fully gone down and the moon had come up. It was almost full and it allowed me to walk across the open desert without a headlamp. By 8 o’clock I was back at the car. Five hours round trip. The face of Mount Wilson looked almost like a beautiful painting in the soft moonlight. It was hard to believe I was alone on that thing only a few hours ago. Twenty minutes later I met up with Taleen at Chipotle and we ate massive burritos. That was a day well spent!
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Dec 28, 2015 - 07:23pm PT
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POD
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gumbyKing
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Dec 29, 2015 - 04:57pm PT
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Bump for making me consider Red Rocks instead of skiing for my big March trip.
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toejahm
Trad climber
Chatsworth, CA
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Dec 31, 2015 - 08:49am PT
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Happy New Year!
One of my favorite climbes in RR.
Brass, great photos of Rainbow. For those who haven't seen BrassNuts [TR] on Rainbow Wall it's well worth looking up.
Peace,
KR
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Texplorer
Trad climber
Sacramento
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Oct 24, 2016 - 11:56am PT
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Remembering some great times dancing across virgin crimps . . .
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| Messages 1 - 78 of total 78 in this topic |
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!