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Messages 1 - 34 of total 34 in this topic |
IV
climber
tahoe
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 20, 2011 - 04:02pm PT
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So, here's the linkup: section 20, eagle lake buttress, and maggie's west face. An awesome day topping out the longest routes in the area. Ended it coasting via cruiser down from bayview to eagle trailhead and icy cold mirror pond pale ales. We took about 12 hours to finish the tour.
An early approach is necessary.
up first: Section 20
4th class approach pitch
stewie on the 4th pitch
sweet ledge below 4th class leading to summit blocks
After the scramble down from Section 20, crossing the creek and leaving our gear at the base of the slab system leading up to eagle lake buttress helped us to keep an eye for moving over to maggie's. On our way to the Maggiewand, Stewie crossing the creek after simu-soloing the buttress.The traverse pitch on Maggie's west face
Following the "money" 6th pitch
One of the Junipers on top
And...
The road cyclists weren't impressed with our bikes, speed of descent, or attire.
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Aug 20, 2011 - 04:33pm PT
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Nice!
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Aug 20, 2011 - 05:13pm PT
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Section 20 is an awesome route, great pics. What about that knobby wall leading out of the chimney? one of the fun-nest pitches I've ever done.
Those routes are long, but check out Indian rock out of Angora peak area for some real big "stuff" in the Tahoe Basin. Possibilities Galore. and no lines.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Aug 20, 2011 - 05:16pm PT
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That's pretty awesome. Strong work.
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bearbnz
Trad climber
East Side, California
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Aug 20, 2011 - 06:05pm PT
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Big day, thanks for sharing. I've tried to climb Section 20 twice, and neither time could I even find the route going by the description in the old yellow Carville guide.
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Aug 20, 2011 - 06:20pm PT
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Let's knott talk about the" old yellow Carville guide."
Basically you go around the mountain to about 6:30 or 7:00 o'clock and go up a chimney(Loose) then start climbing up and left, a few exit variations pop up at the top depending upon how much more you want.
That hill has some great potential for hundreds of small route,
Back in the late 70's, I saw Bridwell and Jay Smith doing some crazy ice thing about 4 o'clock on that hill.It still scars me today to think about what they were climbing.....
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Aug 20, 2011 - 06:42pm PT
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Sweet TFPU!!!
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IV
climber
tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2011 - 07:52pm PT
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1st pitch after 4th class approach "pitch"
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Aug 20, 2011 - 11:12pm PT
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Great shots.
Looks like an awsome tour. Way to go out there!
Cheers, Brian
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adam d
climber
Los Osos, CA
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Aug 20, 2011 - 11:19pm PT
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Good times moving over stone! (and other stuff)
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Aug 21, 2011 - 12:42am PT
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well mark i only found five pitches over at indian rock,
and its not in the emerald klettergarden anyway!
maggies west face is eight pitches.
heres some shots from yesterday..
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Aug 21, 2011 - 10:59am PT
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Going to the wood shed !!!!
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Aug 21, 2011 - 11:41am PT
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Where is the Plectrum, and how hard is the Letter Box Traverse (variation) on Maggies West Face?
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Aug 21, 2011 - 11:57am PT
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brian, good questions. the plectrum is the high point for section 20.
im trying to find a shot of that for you.
as far as the variation on maggies well it feels about 5.9
it makes the other two 5.9 pitches feel 5.9+
have you been to the rado lately?
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adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
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Aug 21, 2011 - 01:56pm PT
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A cool linkup!! Jaw dropping views all day of Emerald Bay, Eagle Lake and Tahoe far below and beers and coasting on cruiser bikes to finish it up....... What a great day in Tahoe!!!!!!
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Aug 21, 2011 - 11:28pm PT
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Yeah!
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Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
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Aug 22, 2011 - 05:56pm PT
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Awesome!
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Mr_T
Trad climber
Northern California
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Aug 24, 2011 - 11:21pm PT
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Great looking link up! Thanks.
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Aug 24, 2011 - 11:57pm PT
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Anything with the word Trilogy or Link-Up is bound to be a day full of fun. Well Done.
Sounds kinda French. They love them Trilogees!
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213
climber
Where the Froude number often >> 1
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Aug 25, 2011 - 12:30am PT
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Yes!!!!
Way cool.
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Aug 25, 2011 - 10:39am PT
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Thanks for the details Stewie.
Was up at the Rado last weekend. What a place...
Cheers, Brian
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Aug 25, 2011 - 10:45am PT
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Sweet day, well done.
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Llewelyn Moss
Big Wall climber
LZ Loon
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Aug 25, 2011 - 11:08am PT
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yesssssss!!!
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Aug 25, 2011 - 12:39pm PT
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Cheers to that! Well maybe not at this time of day...
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IV
climber
tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2011 - 12:39am PT
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Note: The routes around s20 and maggies have sections of loose rock. Please DO NOT climb underneath other parties... more cleaning...
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Aug 26, 2011 - 12:16pm PT
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yes of course try to never belay directly underneath your leader. pretend your ice climbing.always.
the belays on the west face route on maggies pk are placed so as to protect the belayer from possible missiles. still utmost care is needed.
it gives an extra bit of a dose of the stuff! cheers
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gilly
Mountain climber
Mohawk Valley,Ca
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I say Lads,a proper tick indeed! Cheer-ee-oow..
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clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
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Aug 30, 2012 - 12:43am PT
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Rad!
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dangry
Trad climber
the bay-sierra complex
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Aug 30, 2012 - 02:27am PT
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Wow... What a great day, strong work all around, the link up and trip report.
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