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wayne burleson
climber
Amherst, MA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 12, 2011 - 07:06pm PT
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Does anyone climb on the buildings at Stanford anymore?
I have many fond memories of climbing there in the 80's, doing long
traverses, swinging over the doors, and doing hairy highballs
where we marked our passage by a chalky handprint on the fascia.
Hard to imagine a more beautiful spot for buildering..
Jim Collins, Coz, Bruce Morris, Elliott and many others spent a lot of
time there...
But I just visited Stanford the other day and stopped by the old
haunts. There was very little chalk? Is it prohibited now?
Or just out of fashion now that there are so many nice gyms nearby?
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Aug 12, 2011 - 07:15pm PT
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Wayne, it's been prohibited in a lot of the areas, like the Quad and the two buildings that flank the Church, for a long time (20 years?). For a while after the general ban, there were two locations that were still "legal", the traverse on what we called "the art building" and another place, I've forgotten now. Bruce M and Clint will have more info. I never go there anymore since the gyms were built.
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Aug 12, 2011 - 07:34pm PT
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Wayne, here's a nostalgic photos for you!
If you are still in town, do you want to join me and Michael at the gym tomorrow? We'll be at PGSF at 10 AM...
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wayne burleson
climber
Amherst, MA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2011 - 07:43pm PT
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Thanks Phyl. I'm back in NY now.
Great photo! You look very strong...
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Aug 12, 2011 - 07:44pm PT
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freedom of the quad!
nice, tx
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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Aug 12, 2011 - 07:56pm PT
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Great shot, Phyl! Building 90 (Philosophy)?
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wayne burleson
climber
Amherst, MA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2011 - 08:02pm PT
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Murcy mentions that it is sandstone...
Any idea of the origin of the stone?
Haven't seen anything like it in Cali...
And then of course, all those classic concrete
problems as well. I remember going up and down
those cracks and liebacks on Business and Engineering
buildings trying to get ready for
Valley routes.
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Aug 12, 2011 - 10:25pm PT
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Murcy, I don't know the name of the building. I'm pretty sure it's the first wall on the left as you enter the quad from Palm drive. Notice all the chalk in the photo? That is one of the reasons the admin finally banned the practice.
Wayne, We live right up the hill from SFO. You can bivy here anytime.
Phyl
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Aug 12, 2011 - 10:29pm PT
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Hoover Tower Direct
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Aug 13, 2011 - 12:16am PT
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We must have had the golden age of Stanford Buildering when I was there in the early 1980's. There were no restrictions on buildering, though we all agreed not to chalk the church. Funny to see that it was verboten in the 60's. Now I have heard that there is no buildering allowed--is that true?
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Aug 13, 2011 - 12:33am PT
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Even in the mid-90s we didn't use chalk (and removed chalk marks). Got booted once at night by a newer security guard, but the older ones didn't care, although one wanted to see student ID at least once. I buildered there a couple months ago with no issues (midday on a weekend), but it could be forbidden now I suppose. Never used chalk, you don't need it on that sandstone (maybe on the art building in really hot weather or for some enduro crimping if your fingers get sweaty).
In the mid-90s they did chase us off the old chem building since it was condemned after the '89 quake...
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Aug 13, 2011 - 12:35am PT
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Hey Wayne, and Deuce - Those were fun times, and there were some hard problems, and high balls BITD. I have a lot of fond memories, and quite a few photos somewhere on the Stanford walls. I think the trend of slapping chalked hand prints on the beams at the top of the highballs to signify an ascent probably didn't help ....
WOO HOO!!
Paul
PS How are you doing Wayne - it has been a few years!!
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Aug 13, 2011 - 12:46am PT
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As I commuted back and forth to Fujitsu in Campbell from Belmont around 1998-2001, I used to stop off at Stanford on the way back & do a mini-bouldering circuit there. I went to the old areas away from the Quad and found I could boulder there undisturbed. No one even looked at me cross-eyed. I think if you don't shove it in the faces of Stanford administration, you can probably walk around the outer perimeter of the campus and do a lot of problems without danger of being chased off. Just my general impression, but things did seem cooler there than they were earlier in the late 80s. No gym on earth is as good as Stanford sandstone for getting your fingers strong for micro-edging on granite. Swear by the place!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 13, 2011 - 01:39am PT
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Bruce, I can remember a few sessions with you at Stanford. You were the one that showed me those stair problems that weren't sandstone. That shite was way pumpy. My left pinky is still stronger than ever. That dude that free climbed the regular route on Half dome used to go there a lot. He sure thought he was hot sh#t. I guess he was.
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Sheik aka JD
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Aug 13, 2011 - 02:44am PT
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Wow. I just took a break from Craig's List surfing; moving to Stanford in September looking for a place to live...
...and I head to SuperTaco to find a Stanford buildering thread. Brilliant!
Can anyone please respond with preferred Stanford buildering circuits, security guard beta, or links with info?
Thanks much.
JD
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Aug 13, 2011 - 02:58am PT
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In the past, the legality varied in cycles - some administrator would notice the climbers, call the police, it would be enforced for awhile and the climbers would disappear. Some months or a year or two later, the police would have forgotten and the climbers would return. Brian bouldered there for decades until his recent injury.
It was always best done "low profile" (evenings or weekends, don't climb past windows w/ people in office, no chalk).
It was a good place to meet, check out, hang out with climbers before the days of gyms and the internet. And it was even lit at night and protected from the occasional rain. I met some good partners there, including John Lockhart and Phyl. And got to soak up some wisdom from the local experienced guys like Charlie Schreck.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Aug 13, 2011 - 03:10am PT
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yea, there were also some good problems on the concrete, too. Jim Collins of course had a circuit which I think was once published in a climbing mag--he linked many of his cutting edge climbs in Eldo with specific problems on Stanford campus (though he wasn't very friendly when I was there, I recall approaching him with a few friends on occasion, and he generally would just run off quickly).
I recall some wild roof problems over by the Science buildings...
Now that I think about it, I do recall some murmurings about the chalk we used back then, but I also recall campus security walking by as we bouldered never saying a word.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Aug 13, 2011 - 01:20pm PT
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Yes, Coz, I remember Elliott doing a high-ball problem on the N. side of the Quad he called "Mr Popper" that was the evilest, nastiest ground-fall thing I ever saw done on rock, artificial or real. I think the high point hand print has never disappeared at the top. Double-compound fracture with life-threatening head injuries? The possibility was there! Cement landings with or without a crash pad are way serious.
Remember the problem up the outside that we TRed up the outside of the Math Tower? That was incredible too!
Or did you do "Mr Popper"? The memories begin to fade . . .
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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Aug 13, 2011 - 10:37pm PT
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The chalk was a serious error.
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wayne burleson
climber
Amherst, MA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2011 - 07:06pm PT
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Nostalgic buildering bump...
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E Robinson
climber
Salinas, CA
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Aug 15, 2011 - 02:33am PT
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In 1986 I was called in to a meeting with the Dean of Student Affairs who institued a ban on every area but the Art Building and the Old Chem Building. I tried to convince him of Stanford's burly mountain sports history and compared Deuce's big wall prowess to John Elway's quarterbacking prowess. Couldn't convince them to cherish the buildering value of the campus though.
I probably have a bunch of digitized shots from the early '80s that I'll try to post when I get a minute.
Wayne, one of these days it would be great to connect.
Bruce, what is that about an injury for Brian...Brian Cox?
Mr. Popper had to have been Coz's problem...always wished I had a pic of him going over some of the bigger arches.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
or some such
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Aug 15, 2011 - 02:36am PT
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good buildering at Stanford. Shhhhh.
Don't tell anyone, eh? It's already illegal. Winnows the sheafs.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Aug 15, 2011 - 02:43am PT
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Hi Elliot-
I think you must have lost them when you compared me to Elway! But thanks for the terrific compliment.
Speaking of Elway, I'd often see him around campus when I was there 1980-1983. I recall one time, late at night when he and an injured defensive lineman were outside the Manzanita dorms repeatedly smashing a golf cart (assigned to the injured lineman) into a tree until it was just a pile of junk. Though it must be said, Elway was quite personable when not drinking.
Cheers!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Aug 15, 2011 - 03:50am PT
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Elliott,
Yes, Brian Cox. A couple of years ago he had a fall on 3rd Pillar of Dana and had a bad ankle fracture. I saw him last summer and he was on his bike but had a pretty noticable limp when walking.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Aug 15, 2011 - 02:46pm PT
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At MY AGE, I know how hard an injury can be. I tripped on a root two years ago out running at Edgewood County Park, did a cannon-ball through the air twenty feet and landed on my left butt. It's taken that whole time for the sciatica to get out of the nerve endings in my IT band. The more I ride my bike the better it gets until now the pain is only intermittent. Healing only takes 6 to 8 weeks, but the pain messages live on in the geriatric central nervous system a heck of a lot longer.
Moral? Don't get injured when you're old and burned out!
Best wishes to Brian Cox on a full, if not so speedy recovery.
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wayne burleson
climber
Amherst, MA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2011 - 04:51pm PT
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Hey Bruce and Brian, Sorry to hear about these injuries.
Hang in there...
Although our relative age difference diminishes as time goes on.
I remember thinking that both of you (in your own ways)
claimed your were older, compared to some of the rest of us,
in the early 80's ;)
And Bruce, can you comment about my note about the Galiber
Contacs upthread? It seems that Fires always get all the credit
for advanced rubber, although you guys did all that magic
on the Apron before they arrived. Maybe this has already been
discussed on some shoe-related thread...
Reminds me of a quote attributed to Dan Michael where he
referred to friction climbing as "rubber religion".
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msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Aug 15, 2011 - 06:26pm PT
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so MANY memories climbing there
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Aug 15, 2011 - 06:43pm PT
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best wishes to Brian. Sorry to hear about his injury
He introduced me to the Stanford buildering.....among other good things.
Fred Glover
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wayne burleson
climber
Amherst, MA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2011 - 06:55pm PT
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On the topic of "interacting with art/architecture via climbing".
I got pulled off a famous Calder sculpture at MIT by the same
freshman physics prof whom I had locked horns with a few years
prior...
We chatted congenially about how one of many ways of appreciating
a work of art was "to climb on it"..
As a perky 20-year-old, I argued, that climbing can be seen as disrepectful vandalism on one end, or as enraptured praise on the other...
Chalk, like all lubricating fluids, complicates the issue...
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Double D
climber
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Aug 16, 2011 - 12:40am PT
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Many fond memories of Stanford bouldering. I took Yabo there for his first time in the 70's and we did a bunch of high-balls directly over the rails on the back of the church. Scary but at least there were easy down climbs established from the windows. Jim Ericson had an amazingly long traverse (by the chemistry bld???).
Took Yabo to the Ross & Wilson bldg in Palo Alto. IMHO that was the thinnest vertical bouldering around the area.
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E Robinson
climber
Salinas, CA
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Aug 16, 2011 - 01:01am PT
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Here is all I could still find of early 1980s Buildering photos -
Hope these bring back a few memories for folks.
E
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wayne burleson
climber
Amherst, MA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2011 - 01:06am PT
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Great photos Elliott! Yikes those were high-ball...!
Anyone heard from Bill Myers?
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E Robinson
climber
Salinas, CA
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Aug 16, 2011 - 02:14am PT
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Was trying to figure out a way to go the Winds with Bill this month, but failed. I need to call him.
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Aug 16, 2011 - 12:35pm PT
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Wonderful photos, Elliot - thanks!
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Weekend Warrior
Trad climber
Palo Alto, CA
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Aug 17, 2011 - 12:06am PT
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George Goodman's Artificial Stone 1899
I started buildering in 1968 and did so every year until 2009 (thanks for the well wishes). In '68, it was illegal, so I went at night or sneaked around on weekends. In '69, SAC got Stanford to agree to an approved list of building climbers to be kept at the police station. I then started climbing in the day. When stopped, I'd say check with HQ, I'm on the list. The patrol soon got tired of asking, so started a ~15 year period of almost hassle-free buildering.
The only incident I remember was in the 1973 or 1974 when some mucky mucky got upset about the chalk in Memorial Court. I thought that this was pure hypocrisy as the chalk from the erasers that were beaten on the outside of the upper windows was much more prominent than the climbers chalk. But, to appease the powers, Roger Gocking and I took a bucket of water and 2 soft bristle brushes and washed the climbing walls.
Some time in the 70s, I was out on the Art Wall. It was getting dark and I was finishing up, when a man walked up, holding a briefcase with FJS on it, and asked me what I was doing. Usually, I was too busy for the inevitably inane questions, gave a brusque reply and continued climbing. But, as I'd just finished, I walked up to him and said "practicing rock climbing". He asked if I climbed in Yosemite. I said that I did. He asked what was going on there. In whatever I said, I mentioned Bridwell, He let on that he'd taught Bridwell to climb. ?! OMG! Frank Sacherer. After my mumbling died down, he was good enough to answer my questions.
Later in the 70s, Jim Collins arrived. While I maintained a low profile, he wasn't publicity shy, once telling me that it got him clients to guide in the summer. Small wonder, then, that he was the lead in a SU Daily article on the subject of buildering in 1978. My how things had changed in a decade. He also started naming routes: "Torture Chamber" (the traverse on the backside of Encina Hall) and, new to me (Eliot), "Psycho Roof Staircase" (the Durand building staircase). A story about each.
Once, Jim stared a speed climbing challenge on Torture Chamber (just the original traverse). He posted a sheet of paper and pencil on the door that led out to the small courtyard at the bottom of the stairs at the right end of the original traverse. In those days, this door was permanently locked. On it, he kept track of his increasing fast times doing the traverse, crossing off the previous best and writing down the new record. If I remember, he got it down to 90 secs or so. I wasn't really interested in his challenge, so I decided to change the game a bit. One day, I did 7 (swimming pool) laps of the extended traverse and wrote it on the paper. While the times got a bit faster, the 7 laps remained until the paper disappeared.
I did the Durand staircase before I met Jim, maybe before he arrived. It was part of my normal workout. I'd do laps: up one side, down the stairs, up the other side, ... One day, a while after I 1st met Jim, I was out doing my usual circuit and ran into Jim. He tagged along, doing the problems I did. We headed over to Durand and started doing laps. After ~6 laps, he dropped out. I did 12, a new PR. This was in the days when Jim was edgy, competitive and making a name for himself, so it was good to yank his chain a bit in the few times that this was possible.
The hay day of buildering was the 80s. It was hard to go out and not see someone or many someones. I thought that Messrs Cosgrove, Robinson, Palais et al were nuts: not only were the buildings much longer horizontally but the price for failure was very close to zero. But the popularity had a price: more chalk and more bodies climbing past office windows. The powers got uneasy and the 1986 meeting was the result. (I don't know if it is true, but I heard that the proverbial straw was some climbers telling the president of the U [Donald Kennedy] to f*#k off). Once, again, chalk was an issue. And, just like the 70s, there was still a lot of eraser chalk and I still thought the powers were hypocrites. For this, I was asked not to attend the meeting (do you remember Eliot?). When the decision was announced, I was prepared to be a good boy -- at least, for awhile -- and climb only on the Old Chem and Art Bldgs. But, then, Stanford had these buildings sandblasted to remove the chalk and, in a few minutes, did more damage to the Art Bldg than 30 years of climbing. I never climbed on either again. It was back to the future: sneaking about and being hassled (from time to time).
Soon, indoor climbing gyms happened, the crowds faded, the powers that be went back to sleep and I returned to climbing without much thought to being accosted. Not that it didn't happen: once in the 90s, I was asked to stop climbing the backside of Encina by 2 Secret Service agents. I never did find out just who was in Encina.
And to answer the question that started this thread: in the last 15 years, the times I saw others buildering can be counted on 1 hand.
Eliot: the picture of you labeled "The mechanical engineering building, maybe?" is really the Old Terman Engineering Bldg (just behind the church -- although it doesn't look like this now...)
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Aug 17, 2011 - 12:16am PT
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Hey Wayne - I see Bill Meyers on occasion here in Boulder. Skied with him a few months back. He's not climbing that much these days - shoulder injuries - but skiing and road biking a ton.
Paul
BTW Cool post Double D. I use to climb with Yabo out at Stanford - always an entertaining time for sure.....
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Aug 17, 2011 - 04:35am PT
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Thanks for posting up, Brian!
7 roundtrips on the Torture Chamber and 12 on the Psycho staircase - trying to match either of those would certainly render permanent injuries in most people, *if* they could somehow hang on. :-)
And I presume you mean the 45-degree diagonal finger rail under the staircase, not simply grabbing the stairs themselves....
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Aug 17, 2011 - 01:41pm PT
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That's a good story, Brian!
Your description of the laps made my forearms get pumped just reading it. Staying on those things for so long was like torture. After "the ban" I got more into doing laps on the art building wall, starting around the corner on the left past the sunken door and going around the backside. Just torture!
What I remember most was how much fun we had. Especially doing those long traverses, in a group, like some scruffy spider conga line. There could be 6 or more of us: Chan, Dan Prows, Michael, me, Joe Shiefman, Charlie Schreck, Chris Shiebold, etc. going around the entire four walls of the building to the left of the church, And Joe would never stopped talking, telling funny stories, almost making me fall off sometimes from laughing.
I think it was around the time of the "ban" that Joe bought his house in Cupertino and built the wall and crack machine in the backyard, and we started going there. Barry B. would finish work at REI and come over to join us sometimes. What was the name of the house in downtown Palo Alto where the guys built their own training set-up? Was it "Waverley Street"? The crew who lived there included Steve Annacone, red-haired Pete, etc. They had a Bachar ladder, crack machine, pull up board etc.
I just looked in my bookcase and found the old write up - 4 pages - detailing all the problems and ratings. It says rev. 11/10/88 and starts out:
"Access: Climbing is legally permitted (chalkless only) on the Art Wall and old Chemistry".
Is this from you Clint? I'll post it if people think it would add historical value and not stir up some trouble.
Phyl
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Aug 17, 2011 - 02:03pm PT
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It was called "Waverly House" and I believe that Elliott Robinson lived there too. The crack machine out back had a variable-width function too. Think Mary M. had a slide show there once of her trip through Colorado and Wyoming. Certainly, a gathering, a bonding spot when I lived in Palo Alto a few blocks away.
Those were the good old days!
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Michelle
Social climber
SH60091
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Aug 17, 2011 - 02:37pm PT
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maybe I'll go on a bike ride today..
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Aug 17, 2011 - 04:51pm PT
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Yes, Phyl, that writeup was something I made. Probably best not to post it.
One of my friends ran into Charlie Schreck at Castle Rock a few weeks ago!
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E Robinson
climber
Salinas, CA
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Aug 18, 2011 - 12:36am PT
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Brian -
Great reading your post, though wish it was in-person. I miss the history lessons on long drives. Too many great memories.
Seven laps on torture chamber sounds genuinely tortuous...damn...just reading about that and the laps on the staircase makes my forearms hurt...wish I could de-pump like the old days just to better imagine those laps.
So what's this about injuries...I'm just starting to climb again and need someone to remind me to think about whether or not I'd follow my path through the brush if I were someone else :-) Seriously though, if you ever have a hankering for a trip a little to the south, give a holler...I still think I have the best home buildering set-up around...modeled on distant memories of Stanford and Tuolumne...all hand splotched on Rapid Set Mortar Mix for 35' off traversing. (Though I do have a bias about its awesomeness.)
E
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wayne burleson
climber
Amherst, MA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2011 - 04:48pm PT
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Great to see so many old friends coming out of the stonework.
Brian, wonderful post! I'd like to hear more about Jim Collins.
Is it the same Jim Collins that writes the Business books?
And Roger, what a piece of work he was..
And yes, it is stretch to complain about climber chalk compared
to sand-blasting. I knew those holds felt different...
Phyl, I love the image of the "scruffy spider conga line"...
This was all after my time... I'd forgot all about Joe S.
What a character! and a double-E to boot...
And I can provide a bit of background on the "Waverly House".
I found a room in that house on a Stanford bulletin board in summer
of 1983. There was a lot of turnover including many climbers.
There was a shed in the back with no heat that Bill Myers lived
in for a while. We had several crack machines including one
that Elliott built that protruded at least 10 feet above the
roof. It was cool to be hand-jamming up into the dark night sky
with nothing around you. Then he adjusted it down to an awful
1 1/8" size that was desperate. Our landlord was a Mr. Kim who
had bought the place for his son when he was a Stanford student.
Mr. Kim did the absolute minimum to keep up the place which was
fine with us. I remember when he paved the front yard to cut
down on landscaping costs.. And yes, Mary M. spent time there too...
Tim Lockhardt re-built the engine of my van in the driveway.
We had a heavy-bag in the back as well.
There were numerous climbers who passed through the place.
I recall nights when we would wander around downtown Palo Alto
climbing on various buildings. There was a really good handcrack
on a bank, which of course, led to problems...
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M3
Social climber
so cal
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Greetings, Wayne, Bruce, Elliot, Bob, Brian, Phyl and all the friends of Waverly House.
Standford Buildering was a special time. Not good with words after so many years. Here is what I remember. more photos on my photo page.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Cool, Mar. Thanks for sharing your photos from back in the day!
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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M3, just sent you a PM thru supertopo mail. Let me know here if you don't see it.
If you are who I think you are I have a great photo of me, you and Clint on top of Phoebus and Demos - which I will not post!!!
xo Phyl
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M3
Social climber
So Cal
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Hi Phyl:
Got it! Just sent you a reply. I just go by Mar now a days. Would love to see your photos! I'm still digging out my slides and scanning. Hoping to find more!
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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"Murcy mentions that it is sandstone...
Any idea of the origin of the stone?
Haven't seen anything like it in Cali..."
I've heard it rumored that the sandstone on the walls at Stanford U. was quarried up at Rattle Snake Rocks up along Sandhill Road adjacent to the Linear Accelerator. Rattle Snake Rocks used to be a local climbing venue, but were closed to climbing and all general public access when the accelerator went into operation. There are some good cracks at Rattle Snake Rocks if I recall. Lots of climbing classes used to be taught there.
Can anyone confirm this?
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E Robinson
climber
Salinas, CA
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Nov 14, 2013 - 01:38am PT
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Hey Mar, nice to catch your post and go through the pics. fun times.
E
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Feb 25, 2014 - 09:35pm PT
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Just had a chance to look at some old scanned slides and found these two denizons of the Stanford bouldering scene.
Bruce you still look exactly the same!
Shoot, the silverlight thing is happening again. It usually fixes itself if I wait a day.
to be continued...
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 25, 2014 - 10:47pm PT
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A few more of Elliott's photos, from another thread:
unknown#1 on doorway - white pants, unknown#2 purple shirt, Bob Palais, Bill Myers, Wendy Hawthorne behind Scott, Scott Cosgrove
Elliott at Durand
Coz
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Feb 26, 2014 - 04:58pm PT
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 26, 2014 - 05:46pm PT
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Cool, Phyl.
That last photo is not the Art Building - it is the Torture Chamber.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 26, 2014 - 05:51pm PT
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Here are all of Mar's photos:
N.B. it is not Bob Palais in the black shorts. Not sure who it is.
Great photos, Mar.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Feb 26, 2014 - 08:44pm PT
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Great thread!
Looks like a few of those characters had some fun at Frost ;-)
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E Robinson
climber
Salinas, CA
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Feb 26, 2014 - 11:42pm PT
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Nice seeing a photo of Charlie Schreck
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 27, 2014 - 01:51am PT
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I think Charlie moved away from the SF Bay area at some point.
In 2011, one of my friends ran into him at Castle Rock.
I don't know if he had moved back, or was just visiting.
I first met Charlie in the Bugaboos in August 1981.
His partner Perry Norris had a shoulder dislocation problem, but Charlie wanted to do the Beckey-Chouinard.
I was there with a bunch of friends from school, so Charlie grabbed one of them (Ethan Goldings) who was somewhat inexperienced, but was strong and ready for action.
They flew up the route, no problem!
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