The Whillans Harness

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Messages 1 - 58 of total 58 in this topic

Rhodo-Router

Trad climber

Otto, NC

Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 24, 2006 - 02:33pm PT

As long as we've got the old dads chiming in, let's hear some stories about this masterpiece of engineering!

(me, I have none. 1st harness was a plaid fleece & seatbelt-webbing Misty job, totally without uphill-both-ways value)

healyje

Trad climber

Portland, Oregon

Feb 24, 2006 - 02:37pm PT

There's something nasty in the woodshed. Or at least there was if you took a jolting whipper on one. Ouch! indeed. Wore one once on one diving lead. Definitely more for rolling down glaciers...

ladd

Trad climber

land of fruits, nuts and flakes

Feb 24, 2006 - 02:55pm PT

LOL, I still have my old Whillans - white with purple. That harness was such a motivator to just not fall ;) ... I liked having the built in straping to afix and carry a leather hammer holtster on the side. As a result of just a Whillans, most of my climbing falls have mostly been whilst bouldering - thought no mats was another motivator.

cheers

G_Gnome

Gym climber

The Big City

Feb 24, 2006 - 03:16pm PT

Seemed that only aid climbers wore them in SoCal. We had 2" webbing, why would we need a harness?

golsen

Social climber

kennewick, wa

Feb 24, 2006 - 03:23pm PT

Back in the day I was belaying my partner on a kind of runout slab route in LCC, UT. He took about a 25 foot rolling slider.
BR, "AHHH, UHHHHHH, F&&&".
me with concerned voice, "Did you hit your head?"
BR, "This f&&&ing harness!"

Took me a little while to replace it with a leg loops setup but it certainly leant credence to "The leader must not fall".

HandCrack

Trad climber

Joshua Tree, Cal.

Feb 24, 2006 - 05:46pm PT

My friend and I used to refer to his Whillans harness as "the gelding."

Apocalypsenow

Trad climber

Cali

Feb 24, 2006 - 05:53pm PT

Good one. I have seen that evil harness, never been in one. Could you even lean back, at a belay station, without experiencing extreme pain?

CAMNOTCLIMB

Trad climber

novato ca

Feb 24, 2006 - 06:04pm PT

I had a Whillans for a short time. It was my first harness. I even stitched on some
gear loops. Not fun for hanging, falling or anything else. Soon went to a REI junk
harness and then a swammie and leg loop combo

Brian

LOWERme

Trad climber

Santa Fe N.M.

Feb 24, 2006 - 06:17pm PT

Bought it in 84. Liked it for walls. I believe it was the only harness available with gear loops. Still wear it now and then, (last weekend). Easy to get in and out of.

'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber

like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?

Feb 24, 2006 - 09:49pm PT

The McMaster University Caving and Climbing Club had one in the late 70's. None of the guys would wear the thing, so Pam Burns scarfed it as her own.

Ah, yes ..... I can still see her suntanned calves edging on those small face holds. One of the hardest-core cavers I ever caved with.

todd-gordon

climber

Feb 24, 2006 - 10:13pm PT

I slipped off a greasy mantel at Suicide on Serpentine (5.9), while I was staring at a bolt... took a long one 30-40' slide on my Whillians harness (1977).....the rope went tight, the Whillians snapped (sounded like a beaver's tail hittin' water... you could hear it a mile awhile....), the gym bag, unfortunately, was NOT off to one side, and my balls felt "like a pair of marachas...."....

Jaybro

Social climber

The West

Feb 24, 2006 - 10:15pm PT

I wore out at least two of those things.

"Check it out, it's a SIT harness. You can climb Devil's Tower, even el Cap, without a Belay seat!" -eventually the belay seat found it's way back into our pockets.

In '77 I lost my Dolt™ chalk bag into the bowls of Mainstreet when a gear loop broke. Didn't rack on gear loops for another decade, and then only on sport climbs.

Apoc- No. But they did have the advantage that they wouldn't suffocate you like 2" swamis and tied 'Swiss seats,' were said to do. - I never actually passed out, but came close a couple of times, I thought.

bvb

Social climber

flagstaff arizona

Feb 24, 2006 - 10:17pm PT

jesus todd, you fell off serpantine as late as '77??

don't spread that around babe, you've got serious street cred to protect....

BASE104

climber

An Oil Field

Feb 24, 2006 - 10:18pm PT

I think you could get the Forrest sewn swami/legloop combo by 1981 or so. I used one for aid, before that there was just the uber-cool three or so wraps of silky wide webbing type swami. Believe it or not, I hated sewn things when they came out. A good knot is going to hold for sure....but these stitches...I dunno...kinda weird, man.

I did a wall around then with a guy who swore by his Whillans harness. Looked to me like an easy way to be holding your left and right balls in your left and right hands. If you had three you could juggle.

bvb

Social climber

flagstaff arizona

Feb 24, 2006 - 10:21pm PT

three climbers, three whillan's harnesses. it's a wonder we all still got sac.

maldaly

Trad climber

Boulder, CO

Feb 24, 2006 - 10:50pm PT

I climbed in one for years. Took my second 50 footer in it. Loved the damn thing although you had to make sure that your jewels were out of the way when you'd sit back to hang or rappel. Never ever got caught up in it during a fall. BTW,
I had my kids after years of climbing in it.
Mal

Wonder

climber

Feb 24, 2006 - 11:02pm PT

so at one time i wore a 1" swami, then the 2" red. then i was so stoked, i got a williams.used it for over 10 years. i think more.i remember it kicking around my storage locker. So what was the question?

Wonder

climber

Feb 24, 2006 - 11:06pm PT

PS please name those guys. i remembr the pic, but not the names. please help the little grey cells. i had hair like that once.

Toker Villain

Big Wall climber

Toquerville, Utah

Feb 24, 2006 - 11:33pm PT

10 meter fall, Curving Vine 4th ascent, July 1974

Quickly went out and bought a Robertson. No wish to sing in the boys choir.

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Feb 24, 2006 - 11:39pm PT

hmmm,
just stumbled over from the gramicci pants thing...
the whillans?

jean paul gautier would've been be so, so proud.
sadly, the fifth element, (jpg & luc besson's sci fi piece) was 25 years late.

Ed Bannister

Mountain climber

Victorville, CA

Feb 24, 2006 - 11:57pm PT

Geez, the only positive thing I can think of was that the thing was available in Dacron instead of nylon, more resistant to some of the acids that prematurely aged nylon in caves.
But only Tall Matt caves anymore right?

WBraun

climber

Feb 25, 2006 - 12:02am PT

I had one at one time and that phucked up sorry excuse for a harness just about cut your balls off after an extended hang at the belay.

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Feb 25, 2006 - 12:05am PT

yeah the ballbuster.

that's why in the movie i just mentioned, a grrrl is strapped intoit.

Off White

climber

Tenino, WA

Feb 25, 2006 - 12:30am PT

I've got a worn out purple one and a "newer" red one with the plastic gear loops. That purple Whillans was a big step up from my seat belt webbing swami from A Striving After Wind, short lived climbing shop in San Diego. They're still in service as fall protection, better than those OSHA units where you clip your rope between your shoulderblades. When I'm feeling a wee bit cruel, I'll use the newer one as a loaner harness for climbing. Heh.

Wonder: the folks in BVB's pic are bob vanbelle, galen kirkwood, doug white. I dunno why it might be familiar to you unless you're another san diego late seventies ex-pat or a follower of bvb's online excess.

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Feb 25, 2006 - 12:34am PT

off
ain't it a shame we lost connie?
I mean altogether?

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Feb 25, 2006 - 12:41am PT

Off White

climber

Tenino, WA

Feb 25, 2006 - 12:50am PT

Sure is Roy, she wound up in Florida last I heard, left the game altogether. Does it get any worse than Florida? Still, I think life got better since her bad bad days in North Hollywood. Climbing's been a saving grace for many of us, but it wasn't enough for Connie. Good to see you're still kicking around, it's been a dog's age since I've seen you.

Wonder

climber

Feb 25, 2006 - 01:01am PT

Offwhite, i grew up in carlsbad, i lived in idyllwild for many years, i lived in poway, climbed Mt. woodson. Moved to the valley in '78. then moved to SF. You been fallownig this thread. I have climbed & skated all over. who are you?

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Feb 25, 2006 - 01:10am PT

Off:
Man you guys were doin neet stuff up their in Oly, ('member more recently courtney love did that song 'bout olympia?) hey, what's Twilly doin'?

He took MP & I on a tour to the Sunny Muffin' tree: Mike and I will never ferget that.

hmm. lemmme see, this was right after we toured the soccer field for inspiration!

todd-gordon

climber

Feb 25, 2006 - 01:11am PT

Hell, I've fallen on all sorts of stuff......Diamond Dogs, Rubicon, O'Kellys, Coarse and Buggy, Serpentine, Insomnia, Scary Monsters, Spider Line, Naked Edge, Levitation, Wanger Banger,.........I've grounded on aid routes (5 stitches in my face), been lowered off the end of the rope (broken ribs), took aid whippers on everything from Monument Valley to El Cap....I've fallen off of routes in at least 5 continents, ....BUT, I've never rap-bolted, died my hair...(what hair??), wore lycra (in public, that is....), placed a hex in the last 20 years, climbed a 5.12...(cleanly anyways...), owned a bouldering pad, drank a Red Bull, ....I haven't climbed Mt. Whitney....(THAT I hang my head in shame over....), ....I don't have my masters Degree, AND I've been to Oklahoma AND England.....(yeah... and I still don't get no respect.....)...and NOW... my wife is presently on bed-rest 3 months before the twins are due.......I'm TOAST!!!!!!......It's over.....I'll be lucky if I can fall my way up Double Cross soon!!!!!!(Growing old aint' for sissys.......)....Circling the drain......

Off White

climber

Tenino, WA

Feb 25, 2006 - 01:11am PT

I'd be the one on the right, Doug White, though many know me as Off. You live in Washington now? Which part?

Wonder

climber

Feb 25, 2006 - 01:13am PT

PS i luv my OSHA harnes, but i wouldnt wear it on the crags. If you didnt climb between 1970 & 1984 you dont know me an dit dont mean nottin.

Wonder

climber

Feb 25, 2006 - 01:16am PT

So you live in WA give me a call. i live in seattle

Off White

climber

Tenino, WA

Feb 25, 2006 - 01:22am PT

Roy: der Twillmeister was in Missoula last I heard, cycling been runs of environmental actions and serious alcohol binges, BVB'd would have more current info. Still doing neet stuff in Oly, Rancid liked Oly better than Ms Love did, wrote a nice tune about the town after a show here. We've even got some decent climbing in town, literally in my front yard:
Just to keep on topic, I took a 40 footer on a Whillans on the Happy Hooker on Trono once, didn't notice any testicular impact. The fall sucked those babies back inside, didn't descend again until I made it back to the car.

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Feb 25, 2006 - 01:23am PT

hey wonder,
check yer email,
'member skate board roy?
'aint me but it could be you-

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Feb 25, 2006 - 01:30am PT

all right all right,
not to hijack or scarf the thread:
'nice peels in a whillans:

I took a 50'er off (no pun) west crack in the meadows in a whillans

'Peeled Off (ahem) orange peel in Josh (Saddle Rock)

25' off Zig Zag (Taquitz) but wasn't died in... does that count?

ps
'nice to know you are well off white!

erich volkstorf

Trad climber

seattle

Jan 14, 2008 - 02:25am PT

OK, I was trying to see if Climb High or someone else still made the Whillans Harness. It's an old topic, but I feel that I have to respond. My Whillans Harness is a beloved piece of my climbing past along with my Super Guides and RRs. But if you guys think it was a ball crushing monstrosity, it is clear that you didn't take the time to figure it out or even read the instructions. While it certainly looks like it would take your balls off, or at least divide them, it works quite well. A 'biner goes through the crotch strap and the rope goes through that and ties off on the waist. If you fall, you are pushed back against the the thigh straps, not unlike a bosun's chair. It was great for aid, certainly, but also for big mountain stuff. It was critical that it was tied in right.

Shared a few beers with the plumber once, great guy, from the less PC period of late classic British climbers. Smoked like fiend and drank like a fish.

Mighty Hiker

Social climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Jan 14, 2008 - 02:36am PT

I had a Whillans harness from about 1975 to the early 1980s, and was happy with it. They were a vast improvement over a swami, at least if you planned on falling, rappelling, or hanging in it. It was just a matter of putting the thing on properly.

I had a fair number of falls in my Whillans, from 5 to 20 metres, without problem. I still took a belay seat for hanging belays, particularly on the few walls I did, but it wasn't critical. And no more need for a diaper sling for rappelling.

And I once had a beer with Don Whillans in the Padarn Lake Hotel.

Commercially-made modern-style harness weren't much available until the early 1980s, at least not in Canada. Chouinard made a variant of the Whillans from about 1976, and there was other stuff, but it never got here. The sewn leg loops + swami setup never really appealed.

The last Whillans harnesses were probably made nearly 20 years ago - anyone who's still using one is on a time bomb.

Michael Hjorth

Trad climber

Copenhagen, Denmark

Jan 14, 2008 - 02:42am PT

Sweden, 1984

Michael Hjorth

survival

Big Wall climber

arlington, va

Jan 14, 2008 - 03:37am PT

Many hundreds of pitches fell to my mighty Whillans harness, including quite a few big walls. Always loved the gear loops, tried not to make a habit out of falling in it. It was the best thing going for a long time it seemed. Yarbles aside boys.....
yarbles aside. Mine was orange.

Watusi

Social climber

Newport, OR

Jan 14, 2008 - 04:25am PT

Arghhhh!! The Ol' Testiculator!!!

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Jan 14, 2008 - 11:16am PT

The funny thing about the Whillans harness is that it was developed for jugging with large loads and lots of clothing in an expedition setting. Never really designed for rockwork but so few outfits were sewing any harnesses that Chouinard brought them in for general consumption. I can only think of about a half dozen harnesses in the world at that time when swami belts and 2" Colorado rib ticklers. Does give you that classic gentleman stone jockey look though with some nice courduroy knickers!

rgold

Trad climber

Poughkeepsie, NY

Jan 14, 2008 - 11:27am PT

Cannon Mountain, 80's.

climblight

Mountain climber

Northern NV

Jan 14, 2008 - 11:52am PT

I confess to still using my Whillans. But only for hanging extra weight off me during a workout.

Phil_B

Social climber

Hercules, CA

Jan 14, 2008 - 01:35pm PT

Oh man, I think I had one of them things way back when. It was more comfortable than my 1" webbing "harness" though. I soon upgraded to one with leg loops and a padded waist though.

Luckily, I never encountered the dreaded pinch. I did have the unpleasant experience of catching a big fall using a hip belay with no shirt on though. Nothing like a rope burn on your waist to keep focused, eh?

TrundleBum

Trad climber

Las Vegas

Jan 14, 2008 - 01:43pm PT

I gave mine away to Deb Slevin in the early 80's.
Certainly haven't missed it.

I bought mine with a load of used gear when I first started climbing in the 70's.
It spent most of it's life with me in a box along side a coil of Goldline (just as useless).

I gave mine away to Deb Slevin in the early 80's.
Certainly haven't missed it.

erich volkstorf

Trad climber

seattle

Jan 15, 2008 - 01:35pm PT

The funny thing about the GPIW photo posted above, the harness is tied in differently than you were supposed to with the Troll Whillans Harness. NEVER, tie in to the crotch strap. The loop there was for a 'biner and the rope went through it to be tied at the waist belt.

maldaly

Trad climber

Boulder, CO

Jan 15, 2008 - 02:13pm PT

Erich,
Sharp eyes, man. Look closely and you'll see that that one doesn't have the tie-in loops either.

WTF?

Mal

scuffy b

climber

Stump with a backrest

Jan 15, 2008 - 02:19pm PT

The guy also has his 5 and 6 hexes strung with the same color
cord.

WTF?

just kidding

Mighty Hiker

Social climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Jan 15, 2008 - 03:59pm PT

Did anyone else sew a harness from 2" seatbelt webbing in the early to mid 1970s? I remember doing it once, I think based on a diagram in Freedom of the Hills. Not sure whether the stitching would have stood up to much, but sure used a lot of heavy thread.

The model was based on a kind that you could tie, using 1" tubular webbing. Both sit harness and chest harness.

bvb

Social climber

flagstaff arizona

Sep 24, 2011 - 11:01pm PT

If ever a thread deserved a bump....

Btw, that photo of Watusi upthread is Mike on the second ascent of Rectum Roof, a very early hardman route in sandy eggo.

michael hayes

Trad climber

san francisco, ca.

Sep 25, 2011 - 01:09am PT

Mine is hanging above the desk on display at Mission Cliffs in San Francisco. Wearing that thing was motivation not to fall if you are male.

Reilly

Mountain climber

The Other Monrovia- CA

Sep 25, 2011 - 01:14am PT

Fully accessorized...

Largo

Sport climber

The Big Wide Open Face

Sep 25, 2011 - 01:28am PT

Climbed El Cap three or four times with a swami (2 inch) and no leg loops. Fearing for my vitals I threw down for a Whillans "sit harness." Liked the weight shift to my legs but the model back then (solid white) featured a rigid tie-in strap that basically ran flush over the man-post and this was troubling. Switched to leg loops after a trip up Leaning Tower.

JL

bvb

Social climber

flagstaff arizona

Sep 25, 2011 - 03:02am PT

I took a 40 footer on a Whillans on the Happy Hooker on Trono once

oh yeah. and i caught that fall from a fully hanging belay. one of the top five scariest moments of my climbing life. you tried to pass off the lead to me and i flat-out refused. so you got back up there and sent it. ballsy. i was freaked. best part of the story is how you finished the last couple of pitches in the dark with your harness totally untied. wh00ps!

steveA

Trad climber

bedford,massachusetts

Sep 25, 2011 - 09:05am PT

I was wearing a Whillans harness when I took the 100 foot fall while soloing the Prow, back in 1970. I was obviously very lucky. I still have that harness somewhere in a box of junk.