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rmuir
Social climber
Claremont, CA
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So... Off White. The photo, upstream, with the three lads showing-off their EBs...
There's a conjecture among us that the legs on the right are those of CJ's. (Clark Jacobs.)
Can you confirm or deny? BTW, there are HUGE amounts of money riding on these bets, so make sure your answer is the correct one!
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Victorville, CA
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Werner, Helen's inquiry sound legit. MacGillivary Freeman films was very fair and safety concious for Hoover, Yaniro, Maurer, and even paid me on time in production of "To The Limit.".. they even seemed to forgive mike for dropping an IMAX camera 1800 feet! : )
Ed
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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re: the three eb-shod feet:
left: bvb
center: off white
right: neil kunomi
location: belay ledge atop the last pitch of the mouth.
no clark, i'm afraid.
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Ouch!
climber
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Hey Werner! If you get a contract for that film, make sure #46 gets some no speaking parts too. :-))
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Depends, it could be Clark. What's my cut?
Neal Konami, Fullerton lad, he spent a little time at Rubidoux round about the time Largo and Ms. Hill were an item. Fact is, Neal always referred to her as Lynnie, struck me as a tad overly familiar. Seems to me I recall being at JT with Neal and rest of the pack, and he got all worked up when some guy whipped off EBGB's and Lynn took over to bat clean up.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Robs: Since it's not Clark, did you win or lose money?
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rmuir
Social climber
Claremont, CA
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..lost the bet, but kept the money. (But, damn, don't they look like CJ's pins?)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Hey could somebody please bust a move on Gramicci?
This is getting really annoying, man.
'Talkin exhibit R here.
I Mean, 'almost got into it with Robs, upthread "addendum to exhibit A" with my foto interjection.
'was light, backed down.
Screw it; I'm goin' down to Ricky's office in an hour or so and drag it out of him, confession, foto, wut ever.
I can do that and I will.
'Live just up the hill from him.
'Don't really know you Ricky, but I've seen you 'round town, at those climbing gym weenie places.
yours,
under the valley of the stonemasters.
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G_Gnome
Gym climber
The Big City
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Offwhite, lots of people called her Lynnie. Heck, I still do. And you should have seen her whip off EBGB's. When she got back on and finished we all knew she was for real. She must have been about 16 then.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Yes, a lot people called her Lynnie.
Tim Powell and I did what we thought was the second ascent of Tresspassers Will be Violated in JT way back when. We were in the HV campgound later in the day and mentioned it to a couple of people. They told us that some girl had done it just a week prior to us. We both said, nope, don't think a girl could have done it (remember the time frame). Come to find out it was Lynn. And of course, she had done it. Ouch.
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de eee
Mountain climber
Tustin
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For the record. The "cheater stick" I used on Flying Circus was two normal etriers long, about 12 feet. Also Margy Floyd (Evans) was with us on "The Edge." Thank god we had Hensel along as we were all too gripped to lead the critical pitch, even after following it and finding the moves were semi-reasonable, I never went back.
Henny, I remember we shared the goal of doing all the routes at Tahquitz and Suicide and we had many fun times doing the most obscure of the obscure. I never quite did them all but I bet you did! Then Bobby Gaines came along and those ("climbed out")crags gave up a surprising number of new lines!
By the way, I think Ericcson has been off bagging 8000 meter peaks with the good Dr. Fred Zeal!
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Fred Zeal...now there's a name outa the past, haven't seen Fred since early eighties or sometime, anyone know what he's up to? Peace
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Now, a story that hasn't been told is of the Stonemaster's low-budget bouldering haunt...
As teenagers, the Uplandish Lads (Harrison, Long, Accomazzo, et al.) couldn't easily afford to drive all the way out to Rubidoux. So in their quest for more local rock, forays into Baldy Canyon were made... Now, if you haven't been into the San Gabriel mountains below Mt. Baldy, you may not know just how SHATTERED is all that granite. We're talking giant sandpiles here. Gneiss. Too few decent-sized rocks.
I was out in Riverside, and Phil Gleason had just moved Westward to Claremont to give up the life of retail sales and go back to school to study (of all things) mathematics at one of the Claremont Colleges. This was probably in 1972.
During a Rubidoux session, Gleason tells us of this new bouldering area he found out about that was 15 minutes from his house--down in the streambed, up Baldy Canyon. Seems there were a few problems worth checking out...
So, check it out we did. Drove over to Phil's house, and then got the full tour of this very smooth, water polished area. Certainly no Rubidoux, but a few good problems! And, of course, Phil probably found out about this from Largo or Richard...
We used to work that area VERY heavily throughout the Seventies and Eighties. Indeed, Baldy Bouldering remains a fairly well-kept secret. No write-ups in the guides, no articles in the mags. Over the years, it gets rediscovered by the next crop of locals. And as Richard and I can attest, it sometimes gets rediscovered by the Old Dads! Quite a few times, we'd worked out so new eliminate only to discover that, naw, that's an old problem that Goodykuntz did back in '73.
Great doings up there. The Gibo Mantle, "Sole on Ice", The Cuco Boulder, "Fool on the Hill", "Hustle Patterns". The backside of B Boulder. Now there's a story!
Every once in a while, someone would drag a non-local up Baldy Canyon... Now Graham was doing some pretty hairballed, highballs up in the Valley in the mid-Seventies. (What Mike, like "Shiver Me Timbers" maybe?) So he goes up to Baldy and cranks off the backside, rightside of B Boulder! (B Bolder.) Solo. Without a rope, of course. On sight. Damn!
Stuff of legend. Go crank that sucker! Dicey, thin, horrific landing. Even in new boots, that thing is way-stupid!
Lads... Let's hear about how Baldy was discovered.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Report from Boulder:
'K. I ponied up, marched into what I thought was Rockamazzo's office started blurting out, Solo, Surprise, Weeping Wall, Exhibit R, etc.
'Guy wasn't hearing any of it.
'Did a no hands ascent of my nose in his wing tips, polished my thumb, deposited my sadass curbside.
Henny, et al- please advise
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Sounds like it'll be billable hours, too. Pay that invoice promptly, or expect a visit from Guido! (Don't mess with land sharks...)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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hahahha
So true too.
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scuffy b
climber
S Cruz
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What happened to Big Robb Dellinger (RIP)?
Also, was there much overlap with the Buff climbers,
aside from Big Al?
sm
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Oh, sure, you were so poor your couldn't drive to Rubidoux. Well let me tell you, you had it good. We were so poor we couldn't leave Pacific Beach. At least you had rock, we had to climb concrete. Why, we were so poor that when we were done we had to go back home to our cardboard box in the middle of the street and drink rat poison just so it wouldn't hurt so much when our dads came home and killed us again.
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Off White said, "Why, we were so poor that..."
Yeah, yeah... Heard it before. Uphill in the snow, both ways! :o)
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