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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2011 - 01:08pm PT
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Being a selfish SOB, I am of course trying to reverse engineer the location of your secret crag from the photo.
Ha. I was wondering when one of the locals would get past the bloodshed and start asking that question. Of course you're right about the mountains in the background, which immediately gives away the general vicinity. But for the next little while (until we've either plucked a couple of plums, or died in the attempt), that's as much as we'll be giving away. Well, except for the fact that it's 35 meters with amazing pockets.
On the other hand, we're at the point of going public with the previous secret crag, and you're more than welcome to get on it. I'll post a full description either tonight or tomorrow, but here's the short version: The area we call The Railyard (another of Mari's discoveries) is on the East Side, just over Stevens Pass. Follow White Pine Road (between mileposts 78 and 79) southwest from Hwy 2 for exactly one mile, and park at the pullout at the river. An easy ten minute walk starting from the pullout on what is now a good trail takes you to the base of the cliff. We've got ten or twelve climbs on it now, most of which you can do with just a rack of draws. But take a handful of cams and you're ready for all of them. Single pitch routes from 5.8 to 5.12 in a gorgeous setting, with plenty of scope for more.
We've got a vague topo going, and I'll try to update it and get it online in its own thread.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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"pockets"?: it is granite, right? I understand completely about the secrecy. I don't even like divulging the name of crags that I consider little know gems, even if they are in the guide book. In anycase, if I figure it out and find it, on a good day I only lead 5.8 in my current climbing incarnation, so your plums are safe.
really I won't ask any more. ;-)
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Definitely check out The Railyard! Some great routes in a stellar setting!
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Prezwoodz
climber
Anchorage
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Before my last trip to Yosemite I was climbing at an area called Mosquito Cliff. Just after the last bolt before the anchor I pulled off a huge block and it hit the cliff and shattered both toward my belayer and toward my girlfriend who had moved far down the cliff as to not get hit by anything. It nearly happened anyway and she had to dive off the rock she was sitting on. There was a big crater where her feet had been. Crazy how rocks just don't do what you want them too!
Glad to hear everyone is okay!
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Captain...or Skully
climber
or some such
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I've actually never had much problem in partner killing.
They have tried to off themselves, though. Maybe I was boring?
THAT boring? Really? Man, I may need some new jokes, then.
Yowza.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 3, 2011 - 12:52am PT
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And David has yet to answer ANders' question. Snicker guffaw
Naw, I've actually answered that question on some other thread. The bottom line is that while I may have seemed to have tried to kill him, in fact it was not me that knocked down the pebble that broke his tooth. I was busily engaged in holding in a block that would have killed him, when a tiny (really tiny) bit of rock came down from somewhere above and split one of his front teeth.
So, far from killing him, I actually saved his life.
And y'all are suffering for it now.
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nature
climber
back in Tuscon Aridzona....
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all this talk of killing people.
How about Fugu at Mashiko?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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yikes! glad it wasn't worse!!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 3, 2011 - 01:16am PT
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How about Fugu at Mashiko?
Hi Doug.
Comfortably numb. Then die.
Sorry for not responding to your original comment, but we'll definitely be up for saying Omikase to Hajime when you're here. Sep 15th till when? And will you have enough time to climb? Mooser was too tough to kill, but we could try you out as a target.
email me with your schedule and we'll work something out.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Fugu better than Neerok!
Glad you escaped worse injury! Yikes!
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Thanks, y'all, for your well-wishes for my continuation on this planet! It's good to be here!
And I'm looking forward to my next adventure with David and Mari, too. (Tami, if a keg shows up at my doorstep, shall I give you a shout?)
Happy climbing, and keep your helmet handy! (I'm working on a new product that I think Climbing and Rock & Ice are gonna be pretty psyched to report on - The Knee Helmet - patent pending.)
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Captain...or Skully
climber
or some such
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There's a story in Tom Robbins' "Another Roadside Attraction" about a knee helmet situation. Might wanna credit Plucky Purcell.
Hey, Glad yer not dead. ;-)
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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^^^Dang!^^^ (and thanks)
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Glad you're all right Tom!
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Aug 25, 2011 - 12:40am PT
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Thanks for all the well-wishes from earlier! My knee and foot seem to have healed up pretty nicely, and this last weekend was the turning point. I was feeling so good that I went out to my home wall last night to set some new problems for a long awaited crank fest, and as I was making a heroic dyno for the last hold on what must've been a V19, or so, I popped and hit the floor - finger first.
Now I've got a fat and badly sprained middle finger, and the doc says no climbing for a few weeks. So much for my upcoming Leavenworth feast. Dang!
O well...this justifies consolation food:
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2011 - 12:54am PT
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Coffee, in any form, is not an acceptable treatment for injury. Give that pint of evilness to Joe and go out and get yourself something that will actually help your recovery. Like Cherry Garcia!
Medical advice aside, you're not having the luckiest summer of your life, are you? And breaking a finger on a bouldering wall? No rad points for that at all. That's right up there with "Ooohh, I tripped on my shoelace and now I've got a big Owie!"
Feh.
Reminds me of the time I was following a friend up a climb at Squamish. It was sort of hard, but I aced it (top rope, right), and was mantling onto the belay stump when my hand slipped and I slid about six inches and broke a rib on the stump. I was trying to figure how to play it for maximum sympathy, but Jackie just looked down at me and said "Jesus David, you really are stupid."
Have fun with your finger. And since you're not going to be climbing, come on over to our new place and have a beer. It'll have the same healthful effect as coffee ice cream, but it'll make you feel better.
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Aug 25, 2011 - 10:21am PT
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Mooser, glad your knee is healing OK. They are VERY fragile.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Aug 25, 2011 - 01:55pm PT
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Thanks, Gary. And Ghost, I think the V19 rating more than makes up for its lack of high altitude. I will think about that beer, though. It's one way to ice!
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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May 29, 2012 - 01:51am PT
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Mooser, did you say Leavenworth? Here ya go, Icicle Canyon a week ago.
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