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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jul 25, 2011 - 07:54pm PT
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According to Jim Opdycke they were doing the second of four rappels on the 'standard' descent route. From what we know of the accident at the moment (not a great deal) it seems to have been a failure to clip both strands rather than an uneven rap accident like so many others we've seen in the past six months.
As DMT and Off White point out - a weighted check before unleashing will reveal this mistake. Last year on the rap sequence immediately below this one we had someone rap off the end of an uneven rope, but fortunately he fell into and lodged in a smallish notch to the left of the top of p1 which kept him from the same fate (Studly here witnessed that one from a distance).
As I posted last week, I remain at a complete loss as to why we have seen a cluster of such rap accidents by experienced climbers over the past six months. Please ensure you have the middle of the rope at the anchor, check your rigging with a weighted check before unleashing, and watch the ends as you are rapping - we need every one of you sorry bastards here as far into our collective future as possible.
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Nick
climber
portland, Oregon
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Jul 25, 2011 - 08:06pm PT
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Deepest condolences to family and friends.
We all make mistakes and most of the time we do not pay the ultimate price. When things like this happen I feel it deep inside because I know it could have been me.
We all try and keep the odds on our side, but we all make a losing bet on the roulette wheel of life sometimes.
Besides checking the rap connection while tethered, an auto block on the leg loop is an excellent backup.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Jul 25, 2011 - 08:12pm PT
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Just got this:
Portland climber fatally injured in fall from Beacon Rock identified
July 25, 2010
4:00 PM
Nathan Turner, a 30 year old man from SE Portland Oregon, was fatally injured after falling over 100 feet from Beacon Rock late Sunday afternoon in a climbing accident. The man and his climbing partner, Michael Aubry, from NE Portland, were rappelling down the popular Southeast corner route at approximately 5:30 PM when the accident occurred. Beacon Rock is a popular rock climbing venue during the summer months.
Turner was a firefighter for Tualatin Valley Fire and Rescue according to his sister.
“This is a very unfortunate accident that has taken place,” said Undersheriff Dave Cox. “Our heartfelt condolences and prayers go out to the family, co-workers, and friends of this young man”.
* END*
Thank you for your patience in this matter.
David L. Cox
Undersheriff
Skamania County Sheriff’s Office
509-427-9490 Office
360-772-6352 Cell
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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Jul 25, 2011 - 08:14pm PT
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I agree with you on that. I wasn't taught that initially. We acquired that habit about 15 years ago. As I watched my husband unhappily dropping onto an airy rappel on Sunday, I asked him where his back-up was. He lost it. We stopped on the way home to buy that $.77 piece of cord.
We don't yet know the precise problem Nate had. It is sobering.
Gravity was pulling hard on Sunday.
To me, Jill's and the Southeast Corner are different rappel lines. The Sherrif is doing his best. I trust the location info reported here more.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jul 25, 2011 - 08:21pm PT
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We don't yet know the precise problem Nate had. It is sobering.
As it is currently understood, the rope was still attached to him when he was found at the base. That leaves only two options: mis-rigging (missed a strand) or an uneven rap rope. At this time we don't know for sure whether the rope was attached in the middle or near one end to be absolutely sure which was the case for a fact; but from the information we have at the moment the former is thought to be the cause.
To me, Jill's and the Southeast Corner are different rappel lines.
Not quite sure how as the 'standard' [S.E. Corner] descent route raps down 'Jills Thrill' to Snag Ledge and then down the first pitch of the S.E. Face (aka Corner) route.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jul 25, 2011 - 08:31pm PT
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What a drag. Too much of this going on.
God bless him, and may he rest in peace.
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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Jul 25, 2011 - 08:35pm PT
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Thanks for the info. If Jim found his partner on Jill's, I'll assume that they weren't coming down the line that goes to the end of the travers/start of the crux pitch of the SE Corner near Cruisemaster.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jul 25, 2011 - 08:41pm PT
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Thanks for the info. If Jim found his partner on Jill's, I'll assume that they weren't coming down the line that goes to the end of the travers/start of the crux pitch of the SE Corner near Cruisemaster.
Correct. The 'line' you speak of is a descent that has been traditionally discouraged at Beacon as it often involves rapping off the S.E. Corner tree. In fact, much discussion in the past has gone on relative to what could be done to discourage rapping from the anchor at the east end of the p1-p2 traverse.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Jul 25, 2011 - 08:58pm PT
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yes, but people still rap off that tree Joseph and then down Cruising, and it is what I consider the SE corner rap, versus the Jills Thrill rap line that raps Jills Thrill. Whether they are supposed to or not rap off the tree really doesn't change the name of the rap line or the line itself.
Seems like we should sling that tree so that people don't put their rope around it, and then continue to mar it by pulling the rope, as pulling the rope is what is killing it by wearing thru the bark and into the core, major permagrooves, almost to late.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jul 25, 2011 - 09:16pm PT
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Seamstress and Studly,
That people do that rap has been a problem forever, but it is definitely NOT the S.E. Corner rap, which goes down 'Jills Thrill'.
The S.E. Corner Tree has been slung and unslung a hundred times over the decades and the decision was [collectively] taken to leave it unslung so as not to encourage the practice.
If someone wants to bail the route they should go to back to the top of p1, over to the p2 anchor on 'Young Warriors' or go to the 'standard' S.E. Corner descent down 'Jills Thrill'.
This has been posted numerous times (though not recently) and often conveyed to folks on the route as well. The S.E. Corner Tree is now basically secured by two roots and the entire tree and base mat rocks up off the ledge two inches in a good wind tethered only by those roots - it definitely should never be rapped at this point.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Jul 25, 2011 - 09:49pm PT
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I don't argue that the tree should not be rapped off of, but the fact remains that it is rapped off all the time. There were guys rapping off it this week and this weekend. and if the rap goes down the route, then that is what I will always call it. To call Jills Thrill rap route the SE corner rap route is a misnomer and very misleading. I could rap Flying Dutchman or Blownout or Physic Wound and call them each the SE corner rap route, and what would the difference be and what is the point?
Seems like you are trying to change peoples behavior by changing the names of rap routes, when in fact it would be best to post a little placard on the tree that asks people to NOT rap off it or tie into it because of its fragility, and to continue on one more pitch and rap Jills Thrill. That people could understand and respect I feel.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Jul 25, 2011 - 09:49pm PT
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Is there a walkdown? There was an earlier post that implied it.
RIP and condolences to family and friends.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Jul 25, 2011 - 09:53pm PT
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Yes, you can top out on Beacon after about 6 pitches and walk down the trail that was blasted out of the monolith turn of the century. Its a awesome trail, with hanging sidewalks and wild switchbacks, very fun and quick descent. Many people are resistant to topping out but I am not sure why, but Joseph may have the answer.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jul 25, 2011 - 09:59pm PT
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To call Jills Thrill rap route the SE corner rap route is a misnomer and very misleading.
...
Seems like you are trying to change peoples behavior by changing the names of rap routes, when in fact it would be best to post a little placard on the tree that asks people to NOT rap off it or tie into it because of its fragility. That people could understand and respect I feel.
Steve, the 'Jills Thrill' descent is, and always has been the 'standard' S.E. Corner descent route - that's why Jim Opdycke was on it Sunday.
No one, especially me, is changing the names of anything or being misleading in the slightest. A 'plaque' was discussed at length and rejected along with the sling (by both climbers and the WSP SW Resource Steward).
Again, the 'line' you and Seamstress are speaking of is not in any sense a [standard] descent route, but rather a matter of poor judgment on the part of folks doing it. If you ever see anyone setting up to rap off the tree please ask them to consider one of the alternative I listed above instead.
Johntp - yes, as Steve (Studly) mentioned, there is a concrete tourist 'sidewalk' to the top of Beacon Rock and various climbs intersect it at multiple points along its path. Most routes - with the exception of rarely climbed ones on the west quarter of the South Face - easily top out to the tourist trail. Fixed anchors have always been a tradition out at Beacon and proliferated during the 80's and 90's, but the 'standard' S.E. descent route was always been there as well.
One can only speculate as to why many folks don't top out, I have my opinion but this is hardly the place for it.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Jul 25, 2011 - 10:06pm PT
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Joseph, that is a funny one. Jim Opdyke wants to chop those Jills Thrill anchors! He has stated for years that they don't belong there, they don't make people top out, and they were added sometime in the mid 1990's and since Jills is his route, I imagine he would have the say. I have always discouraged the thought of chopping the anchors, as its good to have a easy bail line in case it starts raining on you on the upper pitchs. But it is hardly the SE corner rap route since it starts going down off the Grassy Ledges which is only half way up the SE Corner route which tops out in 6-7 pitches and was put up long long before Jills Thrill was a glimmer in Jims eye. What happens if you are 5 pitches up the Corner, you can't bail on Jills, as you have traversed way east, so now there must be a differnet SE corner rap route for every pitch? Wierd!
and certainly this would be the place to speculate as to why most people don't top out, where better then a climbing forum, and a thread involving a terrible accident that possibly could have been avoided by topping out. I think most people don't top out because A) they intend to do another route and its faster sometimes to do a few quick raps or B) routefinding and the unknown versus the sure thing of a known rap line and monster anchors or C)they didn't bring walkoff shoes and left gear at the base.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jul 25, 2011 - 10:15pm PT
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Steve, I would suggest you talk up the matter with Opdycke, but the 'line' you and Seamstress are talking about is not a descent route. And yes, by definition of the way the S.E. Face wanders, you very much do essentially need a different rap for every pitch (and rapping simply isn't a very appealing option on some).
And many anchors at Beacon could go. Hell, despite having replaced most of them, I'd remove all but a few if it were up to me personally. But it's not, and so they remain by consensus.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Jul 25, 2011 - 10:23pm PT
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Jim just told me the trail is the descent route, as I just called and asked him. and if the corner and the tree and the anchors at the base of the corner are not a descent route, you might want to mention it to the hoards that have been descending it, because they seem to think differently. With the advent of the 70m ropes, you can rap off with one rope from base of the corner to the ground, so its happening allot. Really I am not argueing with you Joe. I understand what you are trying to say, but all I am saying is that many of the folks that climb at Beacon don't know all the ins and outs rules and regs, and rap what is easiest, and call the line that they are rapping down the line they are rapping down.
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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Jul 25, 2011 - 11:07pm PT
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Some folks don't like wandering up the dirtier, less solid pitches above the tree. The tree pitch is arguably the best pitch on the route. The alternative anchor at Jill's Thrill isn't visible from there. Until the tree is gone, people will use it.
Make it easy and obvious, people may change their behavior. Otherwise they will do what is easy and obvious. THat's just my observation of humand behavior and trying to manage climber impacts for long time.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Jul 25, 2011 - 11:11pm PT
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Hey, a woman with common sense, that is a ......all I'm going to say right now.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jul 25, 2011 - 11:26pm PT
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Seamstress and Steve - you can keep questioning it all you want, but the standard S.E. Corner descent route is down 'Jills Thrill' - don't like that fact, sorry, but that's the undeniable reality. Look, people do a lot of stupid things - rapping from the p2 anchor and the tree are two of them. No experienced person of sound judgment would ever rap the tree after one look at it and the p2 anchor rap is about as shitty as a rap gets.
True, the standard S.E. Corner descent route top anchor (top of p3) is not visible from Tree Ledge (top of p2), but the 'Young Warriors' p2 anchor is visible just prior to going up to the Tree. If people want to rap from that vicinity of the top of p2, the YW p2 anchor is what they should use, and should be advised of that anytime you see anyone setting up or attempting to rap the tree.
I'll do another post shortly on the matter on cc.com, but the bottom line is frequent stupidity and poor judgment don't make a 'tradition' or change reality.
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