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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 13, 2011 - 01:31pm PT
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Headed out with Deb to hit dis biotch up. Heading in Friday morning over Shepards and staying in Williamson Bowl that night. Tackling the route in the AM. Still not clear to me where to get onto the rib itself. Heard you get on its east side at 11K but based on topos, I see no reason why we couldn't reach the arete from the west. Also, how is the downclimb from the horn and into the notch?
Anyone been up in that area and seen snow levels? Info welcome.
~ mooch
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DonC
climber
CA
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Jul 13, 2011 - 01:45pm PT
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mooch - I took these last week, just a few miles out the Shepherd Pass road. Is your route visible or out of view? I've always wanted to do something on this bad boy - it is a beautiful peak.
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Jul 13, 2011 - 01:54pm PT
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Good luck, mooch. It is a huge mountain, massive really. We only did the dog route and it was spectacular.
IIRC, Misha did it and they had to bivvy?
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Anxious Melancholy
Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
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Jul 13, 2011 - 02:18pm PT
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I believe going over Shepard is taking the long way to access this route. Walked under it when we did the N Face via Shepard/Williamson Creek. Personally, I'd do Williamson Creek again if I was going to do Twisted Rib.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 13, 2011 - 02:30pm PT
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I did it from Williamson bowl with Chelsea Griffie in about 2001. The approach down Williamson Creek is beautiful, and when you finish and descend the west chute you are back in the Bowl set to do Tyndall the next day. Williamson Creek from the bottom involves ascending long stretches of steep scree to gain the ridge.
On your second shot the correct route is in red. Several guidebooks show it going up the right hand ridge (green line) where they split. When you go up the left ridge and look across you will be very pleased not to be over there.
It's a great climb. There is a mandatory 5.4 move down low and the rest is easier. When you are on the upper part and look down at Independance it is like the view from a plane. Spectacular.
Getting off the West Horn summit and over to the summit plateau looks odd at first. Scramble down to the northwest looking around carefully and you'll find it.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2011 - 06:24pm PT
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Good shots Don and crew. It was my understanding that the 5th was up near the top, on the east side of the horn before topping out on it. Call you later Kri
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213
climber
Where the Froude number often >> 1
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Jul 13, 2011 - 06:35pm PT
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A friend soloed this route ~10years ago and said it is his all-time favorite alpine ridge climb in the Sierra...Have a great time!
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2011 - 07:08pm PT
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That's what I'm curious to find out 213. So far, the North Ridge of LPP is my fave. Guess we'll see! :)
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 13, 2011 - 09:14pm PT
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We soloed. Crux move is down low, a bouldery move up a step / headwall. It is wild up top, a knife edge ridge, but easy.
Waaaay betta than N ridge LPP imo.
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Jul 13, 2011 - 09:35pm PT
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Go git sum! Have fun. Take pictures!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 13, 2011 - 10:02pm PT
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A couple photos to wet your appetite. Sorry we just had a cheap disposable camera.
Chelsea taking a break up high. Weather looks good here.
Me, on terrain between West Horn summit and the true summit plateau. Weather deteriorating. We abandoned the main summit when an electrical spark arced from the rock to my thumb with a loud pop and ran for our lives down the west chute. Over the next few days I lost my left thumbnail...
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Jul 13, 2011 - 11:51pm PT
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Thanks for the beta Kris ! Interested to hear how it goes for you Dave .. the route is on our schedule this year.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 14, 2011 - 12:21am PT
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Basically there are two ridges which join like a wishbone. This is not obvious in DonC's pics because of the angle of view. It is obvious in the Porcella/Burns book which shows the climb going up the right ridge (which is the wrong ridge.) The newest Secor book shows the route correctly, following the left ridge.
When you are standing below the ridges looking up the choice is obvious.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2011 - 05:22pm PT
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Gee Kris....those were some good sized packs! What were you and Chelsea training for? Or did you just want to lug packs up there and take your time?
Basic itinerary: solo gig.....steady as she goes! Going to hit the route no later than 4AM and hopefully get back to Williamson Bowl just before nightfall. Age has its pitfalls :P
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 14, 2011 - 05:39pm PT
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Gee Kris....those were some good sized packs! What were you and Chelsea training for? Or did you just want to lug packs up there and take your time?
The packs weren't bad. We had a shaky weather forecast so extra clothing was in order, and I carried a rope and a short rack which we didn't use. We did the route pretty fast, being back down in the bowl late afternoon.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2011 - 05:44pm PT
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I'm hoping we get back around that time too. But between my progressively aging knees and Deb's 50/50 "bonk" resume (ok, 40/60).. this one has me thinking conservatively. HA!
Yep, have a 30M 8mm rope, slings (for the rap) and light harnesses.....but I don't think we'll need 'em. But just in case...
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Gene
climber
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Jul 15, 2011 - 07:21pm PT
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It's great that we no longer have to deal with the seasonal closures.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 15, 2011 - 07:39pm PT
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Here she is from the hike out of Williamson Bowl, looking down the upper section of Williamson Creek. The upper part of the Long Twisting Rib to the West Horn Summit is the left skyline.
edit: The West Chute (descent) is the right of the two chutes on the west face with snow tongues...
Here's some good beta. The small lake at the top of Shepherd Pass was all silty and plugged up my filter. I was lucky to have one which could be taken apart and cleaned in the field.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 18, 2011 - 12:30pm PT
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Just back from Williamson. Successful ascent via Long Twisting Rib. Never had to break out the rope, although there are a couple of spots you don't want to lose focus (especially the downclimb from the West Horn into the notch while headed to the summit plateau. Some highlights:
1) Mooch lost his camera on the route. F*ck!! Thankfully I had an iPhone with me. Mrs Mooch managed to keep her camera. She hasn't downloaded her photos yet.
2) Shepards Pass still has a bit of snow on it but managable. The outlet from the lake just past Shepards Pass (the one Kris mentioned that is silty) was pouring out in large volumes! So much that water was flowing over the snow....2 feet deep! Managed to find a spot to cross....used Tevas. One a side note, be sure you absolutely bring Tevas or something similar....you'll be needing them for several stream crossings. All the creeks are swollen and moving fast.
3) The route is not obvious until you get right under it. Don't get suckered into traversing in from the west like we did. We had to do some adjusting to finally get on it.
4) Best climbing on the entire route is up high on the West Horn, IMO.
5) Overall, "been there, done that". That's all I have to say about LTR. All in the eye of the beholder. Nahmeen? LPP's North Ridge is still my fave.
Pictures to follow.....damn slow Monday morning network.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jul 18, 2011 - 02:23pm PT
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Lost camera? Bummer! Not so much for the camera but for the frightening
possibility that you could be on the downhill slide to what many of us know
as reality. That's why I carry a 5 pounder - If I put my pack on and it is
too light then I know the camera isn't in it.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 18, 2011 - 05:35pm PT
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Looking west from atop the West Horn of Williamson. This is the fun that has yet to be downclimbed
Looking back at West Horn after navigating the downclimb (which is to the left of the knife edge feature)
Mrs Mooch chillin' at our bivy spot, as Mt Tydall looks on
Sad....but that's all I have. Email if you need beta.
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gonzo chemist
climber
Crane Jackson's Fountain St. Theater
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Jul 19, 2011 - 02:12am PT
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awesome pics and info, people. I was actually thinking of doing this next week. Perfect timing! Looks phenomenal!
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jul 19, 2011 - 02:16am PT
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Talked to Deb today, said she was up there, how bout that!
Pretty burly, looks super adventurous! Way to get at it :D
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2011 - 03:07pm PT
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Funny....I didn't see that person up there. The Missuz and I had the "hill" to ourselves.
Hey Kris!.....thanks for refreshing my desire to get on LPP's NE Ridge. Wanna go?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 19, 2011 - 03:28pm PT
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Wanna go?
It would be a repeat. I think if I am going to do another big ridge it'll have to be something fresh.
The shorter one's like the regular N Ridge via the Meysan Lakes trail approach in summer keep me coming back for more. E Ridge of Russell is good car 2 car as well (although I did get shut down just short of the top in winter once.)
I wouldn't put the NE Ridge in that class. It's pretty big.
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Jul 19, 2011 - 04:27pm PT
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Wow, Mt Tydall looks badass and Williamson, Thanks Dave.
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Jul 19, 2011 - 04:30pm PT
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Glad you two had a good time. It's an awesome mountain.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2011 - 05:28pm PT
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Yeah, Tydall looks like a big commitment....no matter which route you take on the east face! The base is still buried in snow and all the chutes are vomiting.
Greg, you up for the NE Ridge or is that your cup of tea? Oh wait....you dig the bumper belay. ;)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 19, 2011 - 05:44pm PT
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groovity groove groove
now you two, come up to the Pass this weekend. Forget that southern stone. ;)
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Maysho
climber
Soda Springs, CA
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Jul 19, 2011 - 06:50pm PT
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Good job Mooch!
I did the Northeast Ridge last Wednesday/Thursday, it was incredible, burly, and really really long. Seeking to experience a full 10,000ft. plus ascent, I parked my car at the bottom of Owens Valley at 3,800ft at Manzanar, and walked for 2.5 hours up the sage brush slope to gain the ridge. I will post a full TR soon...
Peter
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2011 - 05:15pm PT
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Mungie!!
Thought of you as I was headed up to Markleeville for the Death Ride....the munge headed up Monitor Pass had your name all over it! HA! Caged Freaks In The Kings! Can't wait!
M -
Kick ass! All the way from Manzanar?!?!? Right on!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jul 20, 2011 - 05:48pm PT
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If I find the camera at some point would I be able to black mail you for the rest of our life?! "Teach me how to aid climb or I am posting this nude shot on to the internetz!!!"
Nice photos. Need to do more ridge traverses myself. I heard Gardiner has some fun traverse or something..
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poop_tube
Big Wall climber
33° 45' N 117° 52' W
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Jul 21, 2011 - 08:45pm PT
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heading up there tonight. Is there enough snow along the ridge to melt water?
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jul 21, 2011 - 08:48pm PT
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nice, peter.
wondered how it turned out.
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Norman Claude
climber
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Jul 21, 2011 - 10:15pm PT
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I've been both ways and I recommend going up Williamson Creek. It was a great boulder hop up the creek. Stayed right in the drainage though and this year there may be too much water. You can drop down the Bolton Brown route and come down the creek for a super grand tour.
That's what Keating and I did on the first ascent.
Be safe,
Norman Claude
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 22, 2011 - 01:52am PT
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Monitor?
SO NOR AHhhhhhh
:)
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kpm
Trad climber
Thousand Oaks, CA
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Jul 24, 2011 - 02:33pm PT
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Congrats on the climb and thanks for the conditions update. I never would've thought to bring tevas! We're headed up for W Face Williamson, N Rib Tyndall (maybe NE Arete). Do you recall if those routes still hold snow? Your photos of the bowl and the teva recommendation have me wondering... Also, are crampons needed for Shepherd Pass, or is the snow soft enough even in the morning? Thanks for your time!
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gonzo chemist
climber
Crane Jackson's Fountain St. Theater
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Jul 25, 2011 - 09:32pm PT
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kpm,
I climbed Mt. Williamson via the Long Twisting Rib on Friday/Saturday.
Tevas probably not needed on the approach. Although, I took off my shoes for two creek crossings. The very first one on the trail, and the one at Anvil Camp. The other crossings were pretty straight-forward. No crampons needed for Sheppard Pass; although if the snow is too hard early in the morning you can climb the scree-slope next to the snow-patch to attain the pass: its a little sandy/loose but not too bad. There are some snow patches on Sheppard Pass, but they don't require crampons. No snow on the West Face.
I descended via George Creek from the South Face. DON'T DO THAT. No one should EVER do that, unless they're a maniac. If there were an adequately maintained trail, then it would probably be a faster descent than the standard trail. Unfortunately the faint trail that exists is difficult to follow and requires a keen eye. Also it deposits you in the middle of nowhere once you're down to the valley floor. Its too bad most of the trail is not maintained, because there are some beautiful areas along that drainage; as it is, they're just hard to get to.
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kpm
Trad climber
Thousand Oaks, CA
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Jul 26, 2011 - 03:13am PT
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Much thanks for the post! Now the gang can stop debating about what to bring... I was secretly hoping for snow on the West Face, since it would probably be easier that way. Sounds like you had a good adventure -- and a really long hike out. I've been up George Creek a few times in May (the old permit season), so don't worry we won't be trying that!
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melon
Trad climber
Contrived description of location withheld
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May 24, 2015 - 08:33pm PT
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We're heading in around the end of June to do the long twisting rib and tyndall effect. There seems to be plenty of beta out there for getting up Williamson from the west face, but no pointers in finding the descent from the summit if you've never been up there before.
From what I can figure, there's an obvious chimney at pretty much the northwest corner of the summit plateau that leads to a long talus field, which, since it's the standard ascent route, should be pretty easy to find the right route down without too many sucker trails that cliff out. Is that a good assessment?
I'm expecting something like the talus descent down to near Peanut Lake from Lone Pine or the descent that starts between Russell's two summits. Guessing it's not as obvious as the mountaineers route on Whitney. Am I way off?
Thanks.
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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May 24, 2015 - 09:11pm PT
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From what I can figure, there's an obvious chimney at pretty much the northwest corner of the summit plateau that leads to a long talus field, which, since it's the standard ascent route, should be pretty easy to find the right route down without too many sucker trails that cliff out. Is that a good assessment?
With what you describe above, you have a good idea where the "standard route" descends. You should not have much difficulty finding it. If your descent route is not easy and steep 3rd class, that's not it.
Here's a pic looking down from above the top of the chimney. Tyndall is in the distance, top right, almost lined up with Milestone on the skyline.
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melon
Trad climber
Contrived description of location withheld
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May 24, 2015 - 11:29pm PT
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Thank you, that's what I figured, and thanks much for the pic!
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overwatch
climber
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May 25, 2015 - 07:39am PT
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Tyndall looks huge.
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melon
Trad climber
Contrived description of location withheld
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Jun 30, 2015 - 08:27am PT
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Thanks to all who posted up info here. It was definitely helpful (moreso than any guidebooks I have) and contributed to our success this weekend. Joe and I went up to Shepherd Pass on Friday then did the Long Twisting Rib on Saturday. A couple of things that stick out in my recollection...
If you think the route looks big, wait til you see the approach and descent. :) This is a pretty big day, especially since it will probably be following your hike in to Shepherd Pass or Williamson Bowl, which is also a pretty big day.
We third-classed the route, despite having a rope and small rack. Honestly, I can't imagine how you could rope up for this thing unless you were hoping to bivy somewhere on it. If you're even considering doing this route, you're probably in fine form to solo it. I can't speak to the full descent from the West Horn, as we rapped about 80 feet of it, but on the way up, there was always a third/fourth class passage on top-notch rock.
All the beta we saw indicated that all difficulties are passed on the left. There was only a single mandatory fifth class section on the entire ridge (in my estimation) and we passed it on the right. It looked like you could drop waaay down left to pass it, but you can take a tiptoe ledge on the right under a little roof, then make a coupe of easy fifth class moves to regain the ridge. It's tremendously exposed. Here's a picture, facing the exact spot, right around 12,500 feet.
And here's one looking down on Joe making one of the easy fifth class moves to regain the ridge. The photo doesn't do it justice, but the exposure on these few moves was just tremendous.
Anyway, that was our experience. I've posted an album of (way too many) photos of our weekend on Flickr here. There's comments on most of the photos, and some of them may provide some useful beta.
This was a really big day for us, especially starting out a bit worked from the hike in the day before. The basic ridge approach beta is good...head across the talus at around 11,000 feet and just keep heading left and up, always looking up for indication that you're on the "correct" ridge. It's a complicated jumble of rock ridges and talus fields down low. The rock is really good quality. What a day!
Thanks again,
Chris
Edit: Joe had a GPS with him recording a track log. When I overlay it in Google Earth, I see that from about 13,000 to 13,500 feet, we had wandered over to the east of what is certainly the proper route for the Long Twisting Rib. So my beta, for that stretch at least, is probably pretty useless after all! Ha! Here's a screenshot of where we went.
FWIW, the climbing in the section where we were east of the ridge was some of the nicest! :)
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Gary
Social climber
From A Buick 6
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Jun 30, 2015 - 11:22am PT
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melon,
Very nice!
Tyndall looks huge.
It does, until when on the summit you look over at Williamson.
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melon
Trad climber
Contrived description of location withheld
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Jun 30, 2015 - 01:40pm PT
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melon,
Very nice!
Tyndall looks huge.
It does, until when on the summit you look over at Williamson.
Thanks! Indeed, Williamson is a massive mountain, and Tyndall was an easy pleasure the day after our Williamson fun. This is what Williamson looks like from the summit of Tyndall...huge, complex, and prominent.
For all the up-and-down and extra surprises that the approach, climb, and descent of the Long Twisting Rib had in store for us, Tyndall was the exact opposite; a very straightforward climb with a fantastic summit ridge. Almost like dessert after the big meal that Williamson was the day before. We'd read nothing about Tyndall before we went up there and were pleasantly surprised by the straightforward climb and the beautiful, slender, almost flat summit ridge. A great, and beautiful mountain.
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