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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 8, 2011 - 01:27am PT
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You know the deal: books, maps, sex, lies, videotape and fuzzy math to follow!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2011 - 01:27am PT
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The Basics:
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Hi Tar !!!
Bring it on bro, bring it on.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2011 - 01:28am PT
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Location, location, location:
The view from the east …
It’s a long approach through Rocky Mountain National Park,
We live in Nederland on the left, Long’s Peak is marked in blue, we make the end run around Fort Collins to Cameron Pass:
The view from the West …
The Never Summer Mountains highlighted by red dots, our home range the Indian Peaks highlighted in green:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2011 - 01:30am PT
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Blue marks the road which was clear, red denotes trail, 95% snow-covered:
That awesome aerial picture with the markup was taken either from Iron Mountain or Thunder Mountain, looking westward.
Not my photograph. I'll dig up attribution and edit in a while.
The North ridge is on the right in the East ridge on the left.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2011 - 01:30am PT
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The Back Story:
Well golly, there I was several weeks ago in a legally induced stupor, face down in the shag carpet having done not Jack since my spontaneous 3rd of January bilateral knee funk, when I sniffed the approach of an essential mountain adventure wafting in through the open window.
That’s kind of how it goes. Like the siren call or something. Not without false starts of course; such as a four block bike ride without patellar tendon straps sidelining me for another 10 days and canceling the first go around. Sprinkle a little strategy over that dish: basic stuff like no prior training or walking allowed lest I blow myself up. Then I pared down the goal, tossing out one of the peaks and adding my champion wife. I’m smart like that sometimes.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2011 - 01:31am PT
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But that’s just the details … here’s the pictures!
July 1, 2011 … 5:30 a.m. … late start to accommodate unfamiliarity with the terrain.
A touch northwest of Rocky Mount National Park, a mile south of Cameron Pass, American Lakes Trail:
Diamond Peaks stretching up out of their slumber just short of 12,000 feet:
Lulu Mountain, 12,228 feet:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2011 - 01:32am PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2011 - 01:33am PT
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Couple of hours on the go,
Iron Mountain behind, 12,265 feet:
First glimpse of Static’s elegant structure, with a 12,580' summit on the new maps:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2011 - 01:34am PT
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The Electrode, 12,018 feet:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2011 - 01:35am PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2011 - 01:36am PT
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There’s something comforting about a sense of scale;
Certainly this is part of what makes the mountain experience so meaningful:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2011 - 01:36am PT
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Good place to take a rest.
I’ll resume this in a little bit: thanks for taking a look!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2011 - 03:14pm PT
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Lulu Mountain, 12,228':
The Electrode, 12,018':
On the boogie:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2011 - 03:16pm PT
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Static Peak, 12,580':
Snow Lake, 11,516' situated directly below Static Peak's North Face:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2011 - 03:17pm PT
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Traversing toward the North Ridge:
A look up as we pass beneath a Never Summer wall of cobbles:
Our access plan, a 50° snow gully:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2011 - 04:06pm PT
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Strapped into the aluminum crampoons, 8:45 a.m,
Conditions were firm beneath a thin layer of soft snow.:
Lisa, after emerging from the steeper, narrower section of the gully:
A bit of deeper, low angle soft snow just below the col:
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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What a delight to find this thread suddenly here. With its tale unfolding slowly like the day itself.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2011 - 04:07pm PT
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Crampons off, weather brewing a bit,
Time to move quickly but not before snagging a view southwest to Mount Richhtofen, 12,940’ and Mount Mahler, 12,493’:
Mount Richthofen:
The elegant profile of Mount Mahler:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2011 - 04:18pm PT
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Things were somewhat as I expected on the Northwest Side:
Colder, some lingering snow clinging to the loose rocks, wet lichen underfoot, and brewing clouds.
Not cold enough for verglas though!
We moved with a studied haste and much care …at times we were clinging to a very narrow knife edge ridge, with quite a drop to the west.
For the most part it was fussy class two and three scrambling with loose, slick footing.
A quick snapshot of some fourth class rock here, which led up to the steeper section on the ridge, carefully circumvented by a ramp on the right, placing a single a cam between us as I moved across a thin ledge which dead-ended, forcing us necessarily up into some fifth class cracks, corners and bulges … where I put in a number three friend and belayed Lisa. Instead of hand jamming and stemming up a steeper albeit short corner above me, I opted for a traverse left, traverses being a good thing with the loose rock abounding, soon to gain a series of stacked flakes which I decided would be fairly straightforward for Lisa as long as she did not pull out on them … shortly to reach the top of the difficulties belaying a second time with another small cam.
All in all I brought three cams and used each of them in short order, and that was that.
Looking down the third and fourth class North Ridge which led up and out of the col, before scooting out around a corner into the final fifth class described above:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2011 - 04:21pm PT
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Just below the summit, with a view down across to the Nokhu Crags, 12,485 feet:
Summit photographs on Static Peak, at 10:15 a.m., perched high in the clouds of the Never Summer Mountains.
At this time there was no particular urgency with the weather, as there was little force behind it and no electrical activity:
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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to paraphrase:
TFPU!!!
Tarbaby be back! Hope you are well my friend.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Loving it. Which reminds, me, I'll send you an email about August.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2011 - 04:35pm PT
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With the initial ascent of the 5.0/5.2 North Ridge behind us,
We then focused our activities on scrambling down the half-mile long third class route of the knife edged East Ridge …
… Which I will continue with this evening.
Glad you all are enjoying this modest "springtime" tour in the Never Summers!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Nice, those are some beautiful mountains.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Lucky enough to get a personal viewing a few days ago. It's even better the second time around. Thanks!
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Thanks for the ride Tar!
Zander
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Mountains-the best medicine.
Well done, Roy and Lisa!
Rick
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2011 - 12:03am PT
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Time to leave the summit,
It's down in all directions from here as they say:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2011 - 12:06am PT
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Some views along the way:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2011 - 12:07am PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2011 - 12:08am PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2011 - 12:09am PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2011 - 12:10am PT
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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
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bump pump
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Never Summers look like fun, some amazing pictures.
thanks for sharing your adventures Tarbuster.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Nice stuff Tar.
Prod.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2011 - 06:48pm PT
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Yes Pate, newer camerah!
(Plus photoshop, yum)
More to c#m ... we are still on the ridge so to speak ... 'prolly a monday morning posting sesh on the docket.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jul 10, 2011 - 11:01pm PT
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You guys look like you're geared ultra fast & light, but I was adding it up ... snowshoes, crampons, ice axes, rope, cams, a few biners plus food, drink and some bad weather clothes -- that's not a weightless load!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 01:01pm PT
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With this coagulation of evaporative clouds thinning and our position about half way across Static Peak’s east ridge,
We decided to take a rest and enjoy the views into Rocky Mountain National Park.
Looking Southeast from our ridge line, which is itself the northern demarcation of the park:
South to Lead Mountain, 12,537' on the Continental Divide along the narrow chain of the Never Summers:
West to Mount Richthofen:
Straight down to the north, Snow Lake, 11,516 feet:
East to the Mummy Range and what I presume to be Hagues Peak, 13,560 feet:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 01:15pm PT
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After a short respite, back to the hustle:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 01:19pm PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 01:22pm PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 01:35pm PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 01:41pm PT
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Relaxing a bit on the descending rubble, American Lakes below, with a view to Iron Mtn, 12,030':
Relaxing a bit more just above Snow Lake, Nokhu Crags & just the top of Grand Central Couloir above:
After picking up the snow shoes & hastily slapping them on the back of the packs, a steeper slope to negotiate before strapping back in:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 01:56pm PT
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Thunder Pass, 11,331', the gateway to RMNP, caught in a halo of sweet light:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 02:02pm PT
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A lunch stop on dry soil at American Lakes just before one o’clock,
(From crampons at 8:45 to the end of the 3rd class at 11:10, the climbing/scrambling took ~ 2.5 hrs)
A last view under lovely skies up into the American Lakes, The Electrode, Mount Richthofen, Static Peak:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 02:08pm PT
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Lisa, “smelling the barn” …
Beers by three o’clock, after 9+ hrs on the go:
Cornice on Cameron Pass seen during the drive home:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 02:14pm PT
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The NEXT DAY, training for the Pike’s Peak ascent race,
Early in the morning Lisa ran the 13 mile trail up Pike’s Peak … over 7000’ and 13 miles ...
‘Couple days ago she won a “training race” … here’s a video interview:
http://www.pikespeaksports.us/video/interview-with-lisa-goldsmith
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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
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Jul 11, 2011 - 02:23pm PT
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You guys might have had more fun if your equipment were made of galvanized steel, your clothes were cotton and you carried bricks in your packs.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 02:29pm PT
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True, may have ... always room for improvement !!!
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jul 12, 2011 - 04:26pm PT
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Really really great stuff Roy!
I'll have to go back and give it a second longer read away from the office, but it's always so great to have your voice on here.
Cheers!
Tom
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jul 12, 2011 - 04:38pm PT
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25 m X 11 mm rope
I might have a 25m x 8.8mm that I could pass along, lighten your load for the next trip by a few grams. So long as you bring back more pictures.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jul 12, 2011 - 04:41pm PT
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I blinked and missed yesterday's load of pictures, just going back through them now.
Obviously you don't follow my annoying practice of posting pics just one, two or three at a time.
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BrianH
Trad climber
santa fe
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Jul 12, 2011 - 04:42pm PT
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That's some real life mountain climbing!!!
TFPU!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jul 12, 2011 - 05:09pm PT
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It occurs to me that if you'd scrambled up the rock ridge, you could glissade back down the snow slope. There must be a good reason you didn't do it that way.
That rock looks better than I'd have guessed for the Never Summers.
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clode
Trad climber
portland, or
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Jul 12, 2011 - 06:02pm PT
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Now that's what I call seriously fun mountaineering! Potentially sketchy weather, loose, slippery footing, class 5 roped climbing, in boots! I'm really "lichen" it Tar-Baby! As ekat coined the abbreviation, TFPU!
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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Jul 12, 2011 - 08:04pm PT
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Cool stuff! Looks like more fun than I am having!
Steve
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2011 - 12:38am PT
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Cool beans.
'K !!! ... here I am to answer to a cuple/few posts:
....
right, so:
#1, from Chiloe:
It occurs to me that if you'd scrambled up the rock ridge, you could glissade back down the snow slope. There must be a good reason you didn't do it that way.
Well Sir, thought some about it to be sure.
In the final head scratch, din't want to down-climb/belay OR rappel the loose 5.2 ... rather, UP the snow, then UP the loose 5.2 & gingerly, gleeful-ly ... AWAY from dat terrain, TOWARD THE SUMMIT seemed the most prudent course of action; thence, DOWN the LONGY-LONGISH HALF MILE 3rd class ridgey-ridge-o'rubbel-fest.
#2, from Chiloe:
I might have a 25m x 8.8mm that I could pass along, lighten your load for the next trip by a few grams. So long as you bring back more pictures.
Thanks! & I'll GLADLY take it for the quiver !!!
But ... sometimes you want the 11mm, for HIP belays, with STANCE amended SINGLE point anchors. Easier to GRIP the fat rope & more stable than using a belay device (think balance point, think evun ... "over the shoulder" belays)
#3, from Chiloe:
That rock looks better than I'd have guessed for the Never Summers. Yup, by comparison to all accounts I'd read of other targets ... that was the BEST rock in the NEVER-EVER-SUMMERS, hands down.
#4, from TwistedCrank:
You guys might have had more fun if your equipment were made of galvanized steel, your clothes were cotton and you carried bricks in your packs.
Yah Baby !!!!!!!!
Here's an idea of where ... er ... WHAT direction we're headin' into selection-wise ... as per concernin' next year's kit:
WOOO-HOOO & Berg Heil to All !!!!!!!!!!!!!
Yers,
T-Buster.
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tom Carter
Social climber
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Jul 13, 2011 - 02:01am PT
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Thanks Roy good to see you out and about!
TC
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Beatrix Kiddo
Mountain climber
ColoRADo
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Jul 13, 2011 - 11:25am PT
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Tar thanks for posting another great mountain TR AND thanks for adding another climb to my list. I didn't even think about doing this route until I saw your pics. Maybe this summer. U rock!
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pocoloco1
Social climber
The Chihuahua Desert
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Jul 13, 2011 - 03:40pm PT
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A Tar thread makes the day
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jul 13, 2011 - 03:44pm PT
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I've thought that Gerry Roach's (or sombody's) next peakbagger guidebook ought to focus on "interesting" peaks rather than those in a certain range or above some particular height. So scrambles like Lone Eagle, Neva, Navajo could be in there while taller talus piles nearby were not. Looks like Static Peak by your route would be a fine candidate for the list. There must be scores of others equally "unknown."
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jul 13, 2011 - 04:40pm PT
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Jul 13, 2011 - 06:52pm PT
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Oh hell Yeah!
'Cept now I can't decide if my big applause is for Tar, for taking a stuck-in-the-Sierra guy on a tour of Colorado that, yes, made my mouth water,
OR
For Peter's pitch-perfect comment.
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adam d
climber
The Bears, CA
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Jul 13, 2011 - 08:03pm PT
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Cool ramble! I've been into the Never Summers a few times and this took me back. Thinking about beautiful ridgelines, talus, gathering mushrooms and roasting them on a fire, talus, beautiful forests, talus...and talus. I think you really might have found the best rock in the whole range!
On the 4th day of a trip in there my buddy got pretty severe AMS at the pass between Richthofen and Static. He was so altered and stumbly that there was no way we were going to drop down the steep east side of the col (doesn't Roach even call it 4th class maybe?) Anyhow, the short story is I managed to lead him back down to treeline on the west, no improvement, complaints of fluid in his lungs (that I didn't hear) resting pulse 100bpm even after lying in a sleeping bag for an hour, then ran out to get a rescue. I made it out by midnight and the helicopter picked him up at 6 the next morning, flew him straight to Denver and after 12hrs or so he was ok to leave the hospital.
I had an incident with a student on Electrode Peak that led to an evac too...the Never Summers are a tough place for people who happen to be with ME! (though I've always been fine and am not a disaster waiting to happen while anywhere else...just in the Never Summers)
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Jul 14, 2011 - 10:29pm PT
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Hell Yeah!
The hills are alive with the sound of music!
TFPU Mr. Tarbuster.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jul 14, 2011 - 10:42pm PT
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95% snow-covered
always an ominous sign.
killer tr. really fun virtual ride, esp. since watching folks in snowshoes makes me feel lazy.
really, really jealous of all yr red blood cells. each and every frickin one.
signed
sea level anon.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2011 - 11:38pm PT
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Well then KLK ...
I'll gladly swap you a gaggle of red blood cells for a modicum of foot, knee, hip, & arm tissue.
... or, come on out, flop down on the carpet here ringside (8,200') for a cuple days and scoop up some of your very own!
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seneca
climber
jamais, jamais pays
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Jul 21, 2011 - 07:11pm PT
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Some how with the 4th of July holiday I missed this one. Your love of the mountains is palpable in your writing and choice of pictures. I don't think that anyone writes with more poetry or heart. Thanks for sharing once again.
Bob
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
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Jul 21, 2011 - 08:46pm PT
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What a poseur.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2011 - 11:42pm PT
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Poseur?
Ye speaks da unfettered trooth O'le Goat'sHeadSoupster.
Yet, as is well supported in the lit'trature ...
 It ain't so important whether you win or lose, it's all 'bout how you look doin' it.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2014 - 10:39am PT
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Sometimes Supertopo reminds us there's life out there!
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