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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 29, 2011 - 08:37pm PT
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I'm gonna have a few hours on Saturday to climb and will be getting an 0 Darkthirty start. Hoping to get on The Beckey Route. Has anybody been up to Chimney Rock/Spire this season?
Is the road snow free or is it still a bunch of deep drifts? Any intel would be awesome. We'll head elsewhere if its a no go on the pavement.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Jun 30, 2011 - 09:20am PT
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Where is that spire? I know for sure I have been there, but I can't remember the name of the place. There's a "Welcome to X" route nearby, by whoever the guy was who put up "Welcome to X" routes all over the place. What was his name? Another, what do you call it... Alzheimer moment.
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2011 - 10:04pm PT
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A self bump for info here.....leaving in a few hours. I just called Montecito and they said snow shouldn't be a problem but there might be trees down.
ANYBODY KNOW?
We might have to go elsewhere but that summit sure would be nice tomorrow at sunrise.
McCreel, its in Sequoia Natnl Park. Just past the Montecito Resort. I think Herb Laeger was behind all those "Welcome To..." routes.
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Send
climber
Earth
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I drove out that road 4 days ago Micro.
I did run into snow (3 ft patches-impassible), however the snow patches were after the gate, which was open, and pretty close to the campsite. They were even after the split in the road. So you could turn right and go to the upper lot.
It'd be a 10 min. walk from the snow patches to the Crystal Wall.
There were NO closing signs due to nesting falcons.
Have a good climb Micro. I'm heading up Duet in a week. Let me know about the Beckey Route. I'm interested in that one. Are there pins up that whole thing or is it mixed?
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2011 - 11:31pm PT
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Supertopo Rocks! Thanks Send. I'll post some photos. Heading out tonight.
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Darnell
Big Wall climber
Sequoia Ntl. Pk.
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I was under the impression the chimney rock was closed, you might want to check with the park just to make sure, it's a $5,000 fine. I am the climbing instructor at Montecito, if any of you taco heads make it up this way and need info or a place to stay hit me up.
559-565-3388 Rich Copeland
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2011 - 12:44am PT
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Arrrrgghhhh.....Dern berds!
Chiquito Dome it is then. Never been there, should be fun. I think we're gonna have a go at the Acolyte
Thanks for the heads up......found his online....
Date: April 14, 2011
SEASONAL CLOSURE PROTECTS PEREGRINE FALCONS
SEQUOIA NATIONAL FOREST The area within ¼ mile of Chimney Rock in the Hume Lake Ranger District, Giant Sequoia National Monument, and Sequoia National Forest is now closed to all entry. The area is a traditional nesting site for Peregrine falcons. The closure will remain in effect until August 15 or until nesting concludes.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
or some such
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They actually nest on The Monk. They hang out on the Spire.
I've been attacked by angry falcons there. No fun. Ah, well.
Hope you get out there, Micro. There's great climbing in that neighborhood.
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Send
climber
Earth
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That's strange I did not see the usual closure signs posted near the gate. There was some literature about falcons but it said nothing about a closure. There is another sign near the campsite and the trail to Crystal Wall. Maybe there is a closure sign there.
It's been closed just about every year in the last six. Was kind of expecting this year. Surprised not to see the post.
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ec
climber
ca
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There's been a gate for years.
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Darnell
Big Wall climber
Sequoia Ntl. Pk.
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Yeah there are two gates, the second one is closed with signs. I drove down there last night, it's only 5 miles from Montecito. Buck rock is also closed right now as are a lot of the roads up here, we had a lot of snow this winter but really the roads are closed due to tree fall. I have seen more trees down this year up here than I have ever seen. (I groom for the resort and the park in the winter)
We climbed a couple routes on the spire last winter and left a offset alien on one of them, so if you find it I would really like to get it back.
We also tried to climb "welcome to chimney rock" 5.10+ last winter, got shut down by snow and slimey water, looks like there was some recent rockfall on the route also.
Some good routes nearby on big baldy and little baldy are open right now though.
I am looking for a partner for angel wings and or black Kaewea (sp?) this fall if anybody wants to do it.
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2011 - 01:06am PT
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We went and climbed The Acolyte on Chiquito Dome near Shuteye instead. Had a great morning on the stone, drove 1:45mins home and were back by breakfast. Thanks again for the heads up. Hey Darnell, did you know Carl, the groomer before you up at Montecito, I I. I lost touch with him after he left.
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Darnell
Big Wall climber
Sequoia Ntl. Pk.
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Yeah Carl is in Yellowstone now, do you need contact info for him?
I groom now for Montecito and Kings canyon. I am always in need of a partner up here if you want to climb. Buck rock opened yesterday, not the best climbing crag though, but easy to get to now.
Climbing in the chimney rock area is pretty cool in the winter if you arwe interested, we can either take a snowmobile or the groomer.
Cheers!
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Send
climber
Earth
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Aug 19, 2011 - 08:28pm PT
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Rock open yet? The Moro closure stopped a while back.
Anybody been?
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corniss chopper
climber
breaking the speed of gravity
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Aug 19, 2011 - 10:17pm PT
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Never forget our 1st visit there - we were just about to leave after sunset when some girl screams an unrepeatable profanity while pointing west.
Looking out I knew immediately its was just a rocket launch from Vandenburg but no one else has a clue. People were getting worked up about UFO's and aliens.
I nodded 'sure guys...what else could it be?' :) Why spoil the drama.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
or some such
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Aug 19, 2011 - 10:42pm PT
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I lived there for three weeks one season. Excellent neighborhood. Fun climbing. Cool boulders you can play on right there. For a little warm up.
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Send
climber
Central Sierras
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Aug 25, 2011 - 04:45am PT
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Send
climber
Central Sierras
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Aug 26, 2011 - 11:01pm PT
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Chimney Rocks now Open
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Paul Martzen
Trad climber
Fresno
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The Beckey Route was so named because nobody knew who did it. It was assumed that Beckey originally climbed it because of some fixed pitons or such. I don't think that Beckey ever actually claimed it or was even asked about it.
I used to kayak with a fellow named Ben Dewell from Fresno. I don't remember the name of his climbing partner or the year, but Ben claimed he and his partner made the FA in late 1960's or very early 1970's.
There was a Christian, climbing & adventure camp located in the present parking area when I first started climbing there. They had a big log suspended in the air as part of a ropes course. Sea and Summit, might have been the name as they also had a camp in Santa Barbara. The climbing guides at that camp did the early FAs and named the early routes. Amos Clifford from Visalia worked at that camp.
After my first foray up Duet on a foggy day, my partner and I were treated to supper by a woman who seemed to be in charge of the camp, or the kitchen at least. Years later I did a lot of climbing with a fellow named Glen Cambron. When I told him the story, he says, "Oh, that was my mom."
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ec
climber
ca
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Apr 10, 2013 - 01:32am PT
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Date: April 1, 2013
Seasonal Closure Protects Peregrine Falcons
Sequoia National Forest, CA - The area within ¼ mile of Chimney Rock in the Hume Lake Ranger District, Giant Sequoia National Monument, and Sequoia National Forest is now closed to all entry. The area is a traditional nesting site for Peregrine falcons. The closure will remain in effect until August 15 or until nesting concludes.
Historically, peregrine falcons nested on the cliffs in the Chimney Rock area until the 1970s, when DDT caused nest failures that led to their disappearance. In 1993, peregrine falcons were found using the cliff north of Chimney Rock. Disturbance by humans threatened the nesting success of the birds. To avoid abandonment of the nesting site, a seasonal closure was implemented. Monitoring by volunteers and biologists has found regular use of the area and a need for seasonal closures since that time.
The recovery of peregrine falcon populations in North America has been a great conservation success. After a low point of just two known breeding pairs in California, the birds have rebounded and were removed from the California list of threatened and endangered animals in 2009. However, the nest site near Chimney Rock is the only known peregrine falcon nesting area within the 183,000-acre District. Continued protection of this site is vital to their continued success.
For updated information about the closure and the volunteer monitoring program contact Jeff Cordes, wildlife biologist at (559) 338-2251 x380.
http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/sequoia
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Apr 10, 2013 - 01:54am PT
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Annoying
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Apr 10, 2013 - 02:08am PT
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... it's a $5,000 fine. Just incur the fine, and do a fundraiser on S'topo afterwards to recoup.
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ec
climber
ca
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Apr 10, 2013 - 02:10am PT
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Annoying
Hey. There's plenty of other rocks out there that aren't closed...believe me.
 ec
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Apr 10, 2013 - 02:10am PT
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The Beckey Route was so named because nobody knew who did it. It was assumed that Beckey originally climbed it because of some fixed pitons or such. I don't think that Beckey ever actually claimed it or was even asked about it.
Paul, I think the FA was done by folks from the Christian Camp. I was in a Cartography class at CSUN in 1976. Before Google Earth, the only way to study the ground from the air was to look at "Stereo Photos". CSUN had a huge library of these cool photos and I spent many hours prospecting. While looking along the Generals Hwy photos I came across one clearly showing "a god dam huge tower, just over a hill from the road" ... a few days later, Nick, Erik and myself were in Sequoia, parked at a building at the end of a logging road. They were very skeptical to say the least. I assured them the tower was just over the hill, in that direction. Next am, we hike in and are stunned by what we find..... a huge tower, unclimbed!!!!!
Erik cheats and somehow gets to pick pitch one, so he goes for a thin crack leading up and right into a chimney, I got the chimney and Nick finished it off with a 40 foot pitch....
We get to top and find a register..... "WTF?????"
The spire had been climbed about 4 times by about 10 different climbers, all from the Christian camp...
We did start climbing in Sequoia after that and I discovered that you could find unclimbed stone if you put in some effort and that is what I still do today.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Apr 10, 2013 - 02:22am PT
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I though I heard/read that when the Christian Camp people climbed it they were the ones that found the old pins? Maybe it was Ben Dewell that did the FA, it would be cool to finally know who did it.
Hey. There's plenty of other rocks out there that aren't closed...believe me.
There sure are! But I can see Chimney Rocks from my house and I really like it up there. Recently they've been locking the gate where it messes up the Big Baldy approach too, even though it's not closed. Annoying
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Paul Martzen
Trad climber
Fresno
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Apr 11, 2013 - 07:28pm PT
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Yeah, the Christian camp climbers named the route, "Beckey Route" because they assumed that he had done it.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Apr 11, 2013 - 07:32pm PT
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When we were out there, we got fully attacked by a falcon on top of the spire. It was "interesting", to say the least.
It seems that the local custom is that if the FA is unknown, It's assumed to be Fred.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Apr 11, 2013 - 07:45pm PT
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Fred gets around.
Crab/Rincon..... so are any of the other formations closed?
Little Baldy?
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Apr 11, 2013 - 08:30pm PT
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The only things closed around here are Chimney Rocks and part of the East face of Moro, everything else is open.
I'm not sure if only the spire and chimney rock are closed, or the whole complex (crystal wall, Sasquatch spire, etc...). The release does say "within 1/4 mile" and all of the formations are within 1/4 mile of the spire so I assume they're all closed. Most of the time the gate is locked during the closure so the approach is messed up anyway.
I called and left a message with the biologist yesterday to ask some questions, if he gets back to me I'll post up
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ec
climber
ca
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Apr 12, 2013 - 01:49am PT
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I used to be pert of the bird surveyors out there. The radius closes the whole area. Prior to the biologist change, I used to be able to have them only have partial closures. Those days are gone, as they rather not hassle with that type of stuff.
- ec
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Apr 15, 2013 - 02:05am PT
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Too bad it's closed, it sure looked nice from Big Baldy on Friday!
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Apr 16, 2013 - 02:39pm PT
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I just talked to Jeff, the forest service biologist, and EC knows his stuff. The whole area gets closed, including crystal wall, every year now.
I volunteered to help monitor the nesting sites so I'll let them know ASAP once the chicks have left the nests and the cliffs are ready to be swarmed by humans again.
The six people per year that climb there are eagerly waiting ;-)
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Apr 16, 2013 - 02:52pm PT
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thats a purdy piece a rock
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Apr 16, 2013 - 03:17pm PT
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Crab... as 1/6, please post up, when it opens.
THX
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Apr 16, 2013 - 03:18pm PT
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I thought they nested on the Monk, anyway. They used the Spire as a scoping spot.
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Apr 16, 2013 - 03:42pm PT
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2017 - 06:00pm PT
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Bump for beta. Anybody know if the gate is open? Would love to go in there tonight and grab a nighttime summit.
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two-shoes
Trad climber
Auberry, CA
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Jun 16, 2017 - 09:36pm PT
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That Wall of the Early Morning Fright route is the bomb! Fun stuff all the way.
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Paul W
Trad climber
Three Rivers, CA
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Does anyone know if it’s the usual closure this year? I only ask because there have been several recent “ticks” on mountain project over the summer. I’d hate to see this area get completely closed because of a few bad apples.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Cool that you’re lookin’ out, Paul. Maybe the biologist will finally start liking climbers.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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CC mag comes out and this thread pops! Collusion!
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Chimney Rock is in a kind of bureaucratic triangle. Forest service and Sequoia National Monument has it on their land and National Park service is close by though don't make the rules for the area. Glad to see its being kept open. Its a great Climbing Treasure!
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