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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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May 16, 2011 - 02:07am PT
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Heal up and post up!
Lot of gud energy here!
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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May 16, 2011 - 03:40am PT
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Ditto what others have said about the pain - it may hurt a lot more in the morning.
Looking forward to reading your trip report. I'm curious about what and how much gear you placed, and what you think caused all of it to fail.
Heal well.
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2011 - 10:14am PT
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So glad to hear you're OK and that your guardian angel was working overtime. Speaking of angels, how's your belayer?
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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May 16, 2011 - 10:20am PT
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I hope they send you a bill. risking other peoples lives doing stupid sh#t is lame.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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May 16, 2011 - 11:22am PT
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ho-man, that's gnarly!
stoked to read you're alive
all best,
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Tahoe climber
climber
Davis these days
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May 16, 2011 - 11:23am PT
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Glad you're okay. I'd guess you were right in that you made a couple mistakes, but live and learn.
Especially the LIVE part.
TC
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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May 16, 2011 - 01:15pm PT
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Glad to hear that you are OK.
Send a little love to the rescue team. Even just a thank-you note will be appreciated.
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Barcus
Social climber
San Luis Obispo, Ca.
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May 16, 2011 - 02:27pm PT
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Get well soon!
Send the rescue team a lil note and lots of brewski's.
Marcus
Evil too!
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bluegreyguy
climber
sf, ca
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May 16, 2011 - 02:42pm PT
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sending good vibes brother!
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siamak
Trad climber
tehran
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May 16, 2011 - 03:13pm PT
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Kushy Kush ... glad to hear you are ok man. I just had a close call myself. This sh#t is dangerous, i forget sometimes.
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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May 16, 2011 - 04:15pm PT
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Whoa! Glad you're doing well... amazing...Susan
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seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
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May 16, 2011 - 04:23pm PT
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Glad you are okay!! Holy sh#t man! TFPU
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cliffhanger2040
Sport climber
Charlotte, NC
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May 16, 2011 - 08:46pm PT
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I was the belayer. We made it back to San Francisco Sunday late afternoon. When I left at 9:00 Kush didn't really want to get out of bed. The soreness was setting in.
I don't really have too much info to add on what happened. He was about 30' above the last belay station when he fell. Supposedly had 4 pieces in and they all came out. I'm guessing about 20' of rope passed through my hands before I got the rope stopped. Burnt hands, but I'll take that! Don't know what it's like above the belay station as I have never been on the route before.
Thanks for all of the well wishers, and to the nay sayers, FU! I'm sure that you were born knowing all and you have never done anything stupid in your life. I'm just glad that we have the opportunity to live and learn from this. I would happily pay S&R rather that the other option.
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High Fructose Corn Spirit
Gym climber
-A community of hairless apes
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May 16, 2011 - 08:52pm PT
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Cliffhanger,
...before I got the rope stopped.
So did you actually arrest the fall off your hands and body or did pro elsewhere arrest him?
Glad you're okay.
.....
P.S.
Ignore these people, really they're no more informed on most issues than your average joe at a bulletin board outside Walmart.
Best wishes to your partner.
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High Fructose Corn Spirit
Gym climber
-A community of hairless apes
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May 16, 2011 - 09:03pm PT
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30' above the last belay station
FWIW, 30' above the busy ledge belay (maybe 60') would put the leader at or around the pitch crux, not the 5.8 OW at the very top. (the latter reported earlier as the start of the fall)
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labrat
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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May 16, 2011 - 09:08pm PT
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Thanks for the report Cliffhanger2040. Good job getting him stopped and hope you both heal up soon. There are a few options for belaying at bushy ledge. Can you describe your position and the sequence of the fall? Did he go up and right from you and turn a corner kind of out of sight?
Erik
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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May 16, 2011 - 09:14pm PT
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Great job belayer! Bummer on the burned hands. Have dealt with some burned hands myself and they are PAINFUL. Keep getting better Kush. :)
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2011 - 09:14pm PT
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Cliffhanger....good job man!
Oh yea plenty of opinions in this crowd, as for me one of my goals in life is avoiding doing stupid things, particularly the same dumb thing more than once. That said I've had more than one hangover so its harder than you'd think ;^) I continue to do "new" stupid things but not as frequently as I once did!
Keep climbing those cliffs, you have an experience that will keep you a whole lot safer now! It sounds like you set good bomber belay anchors which is a big issue as you know!
So glad it turned out the way it did for you guys and everyone involved.
Berg Heil!!!!!!!!!!!!
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avid
Trad climber
sacramento, ca
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May 16, 2011 - 09:19pm PT
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The crux of the third pitch for me is at the bulge that has got one super slick hand hold. Isn't this third pitch shared w/ a couple other routes?
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labrat
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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May 16, 2011 - 10:03pm PT
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Avid,
I agree that the bulge is the crux (5.7) of the pitch and if you don't know about the hidden pocket (just at the limit of my reach) it is harder. East Wall and East Crack also meet at Bushy Ledge.
Erik
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