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Nor Cal
Trad climber
San Mateo
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May 20, 2011 - 01:48pm PT
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I did it with Karl when Brett pulled him off and he broke his camera. I recall Karl basically fell on us and I am glad that his one piece held otherwise he may have sliced me in half with the rope.
I dont recall other parties climbing it that day, but I was a stoner on the highway. That must have been 6 or 7 years ago. Karl have you taken more falls on that route other than the one with Brett and I?
-Rob
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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May 20, 2011 - 02:14pm PT
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Great story Rick A!
Exciting tale with the snapped bolt, ass swiping gestures and the cheerleading Romans in the meadow.
Perhaps Clint ment "truth is better than friction."
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Anastasia
climber
hanging from an ice pick and missing my mama.
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May 20, 2011 - 02:23pm PT
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I'm having a love fest with this thread.
Thanks guys for posting!
AFS
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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
Trad climber
"The 3rd crappist place to live in England"
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May 21, 2011 - 01:52am PT
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Did with doubles. It made so much more sense. all the wandering around was perfect for creative gear opportnities without crazy rope drag. Last pitch massive thunder shower and rapped the whole thing in a collosal downpour on bad 1/4 stations all the way down. very sketchy. Now replaced i hear? Super quality routes and heady, but didn't seem off to hook?
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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May 21, 2011 - 02:43am PT
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I think it was the fall of 77 when I climbed Stoner's with Scott Flavelle and I'd been climbing for just over a year and didn't know jack sh#t about anything much less big Middle routes. Word around Camp 4 was that Stoner's was epic good. We swung leads, I was pretty scared most of the time and blown away by the time we reached the top of the ninth. I looked at the single bolt Scott was anchored to and said, "that's it?" He rapped first and I unclipped just in case.
Stoner's opened my eyes and broadened my horizons like few climbs I've ever done. Stoner's proved anything was possible and Scott and I went on to climb Mescalito that fall, my first El Cap route and another mind blowing experience.
Ahh, the good old days.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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May 21, 2011 - 03:50pm PT
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Randy, post more Stoner's pics!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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May 25, 2011 - 02:37pm PT
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That must have been 6 or 7 years ago. Karl have you taken more falls on that route other than the one with Brett and I?
-Rob
I don't remember! I only keep mental track of memorable up-side down and backwards falls where the ground or my belayer are rapidly nearing!
Peace
Karl
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 15, 2011 - 12:42pm PT
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Orange Bumps on a Slab!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 26, 2011 - 12:46pm PT
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Bump for the love of Middle Rock!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 11, 2012 - 05:22pm PT
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And another...
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dhayan
climber
los angeles, ca
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BBST!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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My how times have changed!
Ha! I still don't see lines forming to do it.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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This is so great
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Zealots are apparently few and far between
At least Middle Cathedral Rock zealots, which is a pity, because the climbing is superb. It seems like the routes on the Northeast Face were more crowded thirty hears ago than now.
Way back when this thread was first posted, Roger asked about how we remembered the upper parts of Stoner's Highway and the Powell-Reed left variation.
I did the Powell-Reed left variation either shortly before or shortly after you guys did the FA of Stoner's Highway (my memory has faded on that). As soon as we started moving left, the climbing got much easier on Powell-Reed.
John
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Roots
Mountain climber
SoCal
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ooops wrong thread..thought we were talking about the 395. Carry on...
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Speaking of route-finding, I was on the first pitch once and Bridwell came by. We chatted and he said he thought Stoners started off to the left. Since I'd done the route a fair number of times I knew I was on route and that there were no bolts at all off to the left. (The runout to the first bolt on the actual route is bad enough)
just sayin
Peace
Karl
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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"There's a bolted one pitch route to the left of the Stoners start, Rainbow Bridge, I think, a 5.11 pitch to a stance. A Chris Cantwell creation if I remember right."
Yup, pretty close to Central Pillar. There was a crowd on Central Pillar one day so I started up it, not knowing what it was. Took a bunch of falls until I got to the final stretch to the belay and couldn't pull it off. 11D slab is wicked smooth!
Peace
Karl
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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There's a new Beyer route that crosses right through paradise lost s well
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Aug 19, 2013 - 03:57pm PT
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Bump!
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