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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 23, 2011 - 01:22am PT
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Oldsters? Pretty much. I mean Thom Engelbach, a.k.a. “The Waste Mission”, or via his Supertopo handle ...
“Mission” … just had his 50th birthday celebration here in Boulder.
In Part I we will take a look at that party.
For Part II of this doubleheader: Spyork paid his first visit to us here Boulder and he also happens to be 50 …
And while we are counting notches, I too, am 50 years old.
*Special note to the reader: none of the women in this report are or over 39 years of age.
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Tarbuster
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2011 - 01:23am PT
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Like all good threads on a Climber’s Forum, this one, or the story rather … starts out with a wee bit of climbing.
It’s customary, if not good style ... to go climbing before a party here in the People’s Republic of Boulder.
So prior to The Mission’s birthday party I met Tim Stich at my favorite old dad out to pasture bouldering area!
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Tarbuster
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2011 - 01:24am PT
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Then we bopped up to Castle Rock around 5 p.m. to romp up the West Face, a favorite three pitch 5.5:
But first we had to … “rack up” … you know the drill:
Spiced with a dash of that time honored & oh so perfunctory bit of climb-a-climb:
Tim Stich leads off:
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Tarbuster
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2011 - 01:26am PT
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Then the ‘Buster charges fourth, shooting down as he goes:
Soon to embrace the cherished summit antics ... just up the sleeve:
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Apr 23, 2011 - 01:33am PT
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Please Sir, may we have some more...
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Tarbuster
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2011 - 01:34am PT
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Interlude with Moon over Boulder Canyon:
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Tarbuster
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2011 - 01:35am PT
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And on to the party … Mission's 50th
The Birthday Boy and brother Bill in the man cave, reflecting upon the consequences of hitting the BIG FIVE OH:
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Tarbuster
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2011 - 01:35am PT
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And a toast with a fine tequila ANEJO:
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Tarbuster
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2011 - 01:36am PT
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More to follow … pics of peeps at the party … plus the Spyork fandango …
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Apr 23, 2011 - 01:36am PT
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More! You want more?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 23, 2011 - 08:41am PT
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So everybody is 50... Boulder really is a town of the young.
I may catch up with you guys out there yet, before this season is over.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
My ready room
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Apr 23, 2011 - 08:50am PT
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Almost 50, over here. Good stuff, Tar & Stich.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Apr 23, 2011 - 12:10pm PT
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50 is the new 16. :)
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Apr 23, 2011 - 02:28pm PT
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nice, sorry to have missed it. i really like that regular route on castle, nice rock and good line. enjoyable moves for the grade.
envy you boulder folks the easy access to good local choss
slight chance ill make it out later in may
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Apr 23, 2011 - 02:34pm PT
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Awesome KLK - let us know when you are here...you know what your visit will mean!?!?!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Apr 23, 2011 - 03:19pm PT
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Seeing this photo, every climber who wasn't there wished that he was.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Apr 23, 2011 - 03:47pm PT
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Awesome KLK - let us know when you are here...you know what your visit will mean!?!?!
Another old guy in Boulder?
Heh. Yeah, it'd be cool to meet more Front Rangers.
And Roy, great taste in footwear.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Apr 23, 2011 - 05:04pm PT
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Looking forward to your visit! And looking forward to more of Roy's postings. He'll be here shortly for an impromptu taco hang-out here at the house.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2011 - 11:28pm PT
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Okay, on to the people pictures portion of the parade: Part I, Mission's 50th.
I know, I know this is face book stuff ... can't do it.
So here goes:
John Cook and Jim Donini:
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Tarbuster
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2011 - 11:33pm PT
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Tim and Carol:
Phil Broscovak and Huntley Ingalls:
Tarbuster and Bobby Bensman:
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Tarbuster
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2011 - 11:37pm PT
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Strappo, Julie, & Thom:
Phil and Laurie, not sure of the upper two friendly folk:
Mike Amato, Christa Cline, Mike Munger, Kim Raupp:
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Tarbuster
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2011 - 11:40pm PT
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The Mission, with Carol on the right:
Bobbi & Julie:
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Captain...or Skully
climber
My ready room
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Apr 23, 2011 - 11:41pm PT
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Hi, Ya'll! What it be like, & sh#t?
Hehehe. No, really!
Right on.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Apr 23, 2011 - 11:45pm PT
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Third photo up - That is Mike Amato, Christa Cline, Mike Munger and Kim Raupp.
It was a great party!
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Tarbuster
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2011 - 11:46pm PT
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Last picture of The Mission's 50th birthday party ...
Strappo & Julie, I believe it was them, or somebody with a great sense of humor ... gave him a fossil !!!
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Tarbuster
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2011 - 11:52pm PT
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I'll get part two up in the next couple days: Spyork's visit ... including, among other frivolities, a few snapshots of easy rock romping in Eldo.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Apr 24, 2011 - 12:11am PT
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Awesome, and thanks Tarbaby!
Bump for the real deal!
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Apr 24, 2011 - 04:58am PT
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Thanks Tarbuster!
I haven't seen Huntley Ingles since the 1960's.
Glad he's still around and going to climber's parties.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Apr 24, 2011 - 05:19am PT
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Thanks Mr. Buster.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Apr 24, 2011 - 09:38am PT
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Thanks! Always great to have you post photos,wit, & wisdom.
More please!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2011 - 10:39am PT
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Spyork Visit
Well, Crimpster was hosting Spyork’s Boulder soirée and knew darn well he wasn’t going to get any kind of pump waddling around Eldo with me, so straight after disembarking from the plane, she had him rendezvous with us at the Boulder Rock Club.
Spyork “in country” on the blue sands of the Boulder Rock Club, People’s Republic of Boulder :
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Tarbuster
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2011 - 10:46am PT
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Now, at this point in a much younger persons' gathering the athletic indulgence would have continued long into the night. And more so, back up about 30 years, that would've happened out at the boulders under starlight and lantern.
But we is oldsters: eating and drinking is what happens most ... so on to SHERPAS, the local Nepali restaurant of choice:
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Tarbuster
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2011 - 10:50am PT
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A little interior detail … suggesting a small nod to ambience:
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Tarbuster
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2011 - 10:54am PT
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The usual suspects, plus Spyork:
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Tarbuster
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2011 - 11:13am PT
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So much for the weekend, what with The Mission's 50th & Spyork’s arrival.
Onto Monday night and the prototypical Supertopo Boulder Colorado locals gathering ...
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Tarbuster
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2011 - 11:14am PT
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Yes, more eating and drinking:
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Tarbuster
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2011 - 11:14am PT
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Finally, moving along to what I would consider the main event of any trad climber's first visit to the Boulder area.
An introduction to Eldorado Canyon !!!
Sadly, Brass Nuts was unavailable to guide a tour up the Naked Edge.
Spyork & I defaulted to, ahem, the next best thing … a perfunctory romp up Calypso on the Wind Tower:
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Apr 25, 2011 - 11:18am PT
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Eating, drinking, climbing, (sex?), Boulder sounds like Shangri La- why did I leave?
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Tarbuster
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2011 - 11:20am PT
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*Angle slightly adjusted to allow the reader a taste of experience somewhat similar to the author's:
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Tarbuster
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2011 - 11:33am PT
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Beginning the second pitch:
And entering the seldom visited, rarefied heights above the walkoff ledge on pitch three ...
Read: sometimes loose, a bit of lichen here and there, ample room for wandering and moderate creativity:
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Tarbuster
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2011 - 11:41am PT
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An obligatory summit shot on the Wind Tower:
Once back at the base,
A quick view to the Bastille, with not a soul a-clinging ... a rare encounter indeed:
After which, rather than flogging my waning arm-supply any further ...
We repaired to the Walnut Brewery for a couple of stouts, signifying the end of the story:
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Apr 25, 2011 - 11:45am PT
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50 is the new 40, or so i hope when i hit the mark in 3 yearS!
have a great party~!
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Tarbuster
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2011 - 11:49am PT
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In my case 50 is the old 12.
Note: special instruction may apply.
Inquire at the counter for details.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 25, 2011 - 12:10pm PT
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Damn if you folks don't make life in Skinnytown look FAT!
Happy Birthday DemiCenturian!
All hail to the well-seasoned adventurers out your way with stems still rigid and summits expertly pickled...LOL
Great thread Roy!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Apr 25, 2011 - 12:13pm PT
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Roy is the man sending in a plether jacket I love his style there.
Far be it from me to say it's not pleather, but Roy's trademark pink jacket has some history. Maybe it used to be red.
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Tarbuster
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2011 - 12:14pm PT
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Yes, Spyork gets style points for the leather jacket.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2011 - 12:23pm PT
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Yes I remember.
That also happened at a guide's meeting in Tuolumne even further WBITD.
Bridwell just looked down at me and said: "heh ... too much of EVERYTHING".
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Apr 25, 2011 - 12:32pm PT
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That shot of Tim and Carol...with the look on Tim's face, makes me glad I can see both of his hands...ha ha.
Fan-f'n-tastic!
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Apr 25, 2011 - 12:45pm PT
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True SLC Brian - But WHAT is he playing with in his pocket???
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 25, 2011 - 02:19pm PT
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great stuff...
...getting the tribes together
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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Apr 25, 2011 - 02:25pm PT
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Who's the idiot clibing in a leather jacket? Oops, that would be me, forgot my shell, and wimpy californians can't handle real weather!
Thanks so much Callie, Roy, Philo and others for entertaining me on my trip out there. Great company!
I am going to need to come back and scramble around in Eldorado Canyon some more. I found the rock to be fasciating, like nothing I have ever climbed.
Thanks all!
Steve
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2011 - 03:29pm PT
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Silver wrote:
Thanks for the list is that all possible in a day?
Well, Dave Yerian and I *once* climbed Yellow Spur in an hour and a half, bottom to top.
So sure, depending on your level of fitness, connective tissue and etc.
Currently 'would take me about two years!
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Tarbuster
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2011 - 03:36pm PT
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3 Pictures from that 1.5 hr romp up Yellow Spur:
Entering Eden:
Yerain at the base of Yellow Spur:
Tar on pitch 7:
... didn't shoot pictures of anything in between.
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Tarbuster
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2011 - 03:53pm PT
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That was in the early 1990s,
You may have noted Mr. Yerian was wearing Mexican huaraches on the approach.
Same for me ... and I still have mine:
Nevertheless, I doubt I carried them on the climb as I often scrambled off the summit in bare feet.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Apr 25, 2011 - 04:17pm PT
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There's that photo of Skinner and Piana again up there... :-)
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Apr 25, 2011 - 04:38pm PT
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Roy-
You might consider adding the Green Slab Direct, 5.9, to your list, as well as the Great Zot at 5.8. The Green Spur is sorta' a one pitch wonder, but a GOOD one pitch wonder.
I climbed both Rewritten and the Green Spur in a day several years ago. The biggest consumer of time is getting off the routes and the subsequent approaches to the next climbs. Could probably do the Green Spur, Rewritten and yellow Spur in a day without too much futzing around...
Anthill direct is a notable climb, as well.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2011 - 04:55pm PT
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Yes Roger, I like the Great Zot & would recommend it, especially with the Upper Zot Face.
If you add Green Slab Direct, then maybe throw in The Bulge, for parity, w/ direct 5.9 finish, which I would say is more dramatic.
And don't forget, despite the first pitch being the best, Green Spur has an upper pitch that's pretty good, going up through a roof/bulge.
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Karla
climber
Colorado
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Apr 25, 2011 - 04:59pm PT
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Thanks Tarbuster for posting pics of Thom's bday celebration. Your pics are wonderful! I was a bit preoccupied with everything, so I managed to only get 2 crappy shots from my phone.
I'm glad you & Spyork got a chance to hit up Eldo!
Seeya soon,
Karla
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2011 - 05:04pm PT
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I'm glad you enjoyed those pictures Karla.
Thanks for throwing the party !!!
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Apr 25, 2011 - 05:10pm PT
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Hope you are feeling better Karla. I'm at home with what sounds like the same crud.
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Tarbuster
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2011 - 05:14pm PT
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Green Spur pitch one:
(actually pitch two, often linked)
Green Spur pitch three:
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Tarbuster
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2011 - 05:30pm PT
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The Bulge Wall,
(photo taken from the top of Wind Tower with Spyork)
With approximate line, featuring the Shades of Gray 5.8+ direct route through the initial roofs,
And the airy and excellent 5.9- direct finish:
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Apr 25, 2011 - 05:30pm PT
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Thanks for the report and especially for all the climbing photos. It was great to see some of my old routes along with some I only dreamed about.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2011 - 06:37pm PT
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It's nice to know you are enjoying things here Jan!
Check your e-mail shortly: I've got some attachments for you to peruse.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Apr 25, 2011 - 06:44pm PT
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Awesome pics, Tarbaby! Especially on Calypso--what gorgeous
rock. Now I know why I live here!!!!
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mission
Social climber
boulder,co
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Apr 25, 2011 - 11:48pm PT
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Thanks to everyone who showed up to make my birthday so fun and memorable- especially Karla, who put a lot of work into the preparations, and Jim Donini, who drove all the way here from Ouray. And thanks to the Tarbuster for posting up the photos- and for having the presence of mind to bust out the camera when the tequila started flowing...
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Apr 26, 2011 - 11:50am PT
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Bump for the Misson-airy position.
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J. Werlin
Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
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Apr 26, 2011 - 07:37pm PT
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Great to see another TR from Hall of Famer T-bust. Loved every byte of it. Many thanks.
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| Messages 1 - 69 of total 69 in this topic |
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Rewritten to Rebuffat's Arete: six pitch 5.8 on the Middle Buttress/Red Garden Wall
Let us know!