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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 14, 2011 - 09:41pm PT
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On top of the namesake rock in the park, there is an old, 3-4 inch diameter post cemented in to the top of the rock. Using another rope or long cord to girth hitch the post is the way I, and most other folks I see, set topropes for the awesome climbs like Farewell to Arms, and Aeronautical Engineer.
My Question is, why do all the other awesome rocks in the area not have the same posts cemented in their tops. The post seems to have been accepted and hugely used on the main rock. Leading and toproping in the area has become suspect and dangerous due to outdated, rusty bolts which give very little confidence when you are smearing the classic slopers the area is famous for. Currently it seems, no one is allowed to replace these scary relics. I can't help but think about how much safer, efficient and just plain awesome it would be to have posts instead of crappy rusty bolts on top of:
Platypus Rock
Shady Rock
Goat Rock
Waterfall Cliff
Cal Cliff
What are the arguments for, and against installing long term permanent post just like what is already on the main Castle Rock.
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Strider
Trad climber
ಠ_ಠ
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Apr 14, 2011 - 10:27pm PT
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This is going to sound snarky but then again, it is supposed to...
Do you want me to hold your hand for you as you climb up? For too many reasons than I can list right now, this has to be one of the stupidest ideas I have heard in a while.
Seriously??? Mounting enormous pipes on top of all the rocks because you either don't have the experience/skill/equipment to set a proper anchor?? How about an iron-rung ladder up the side of the rock because hey, you know, that climbing sh#t is hard and dangerous.
Don't feel safe on the rock? Then don't go out there. The floors in gyms are nicely padded from what I hear...
I hope I just got trolled...
-n
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Apr 14, 2011 - 10:37pm PT
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Waterfall and one of the Cal Ridge anchors need retrofitting. Me and the Brucesky talking about it...
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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Apr 14, 2011 - 11:19pm PT
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I know Strider was joking, but those "spool" type anchors at the top of gym climbs would work well too. They're not hard to set up, and they provide some friction for top-roping, which reduces the chance and consequences of a belayer losing control. Plus it's the kind of anchor most climbers are already familiar with. The few people who are mostly-outside type climbers will get the hang of them in no time. Ground padding is a good thought, but not very realistic given the rain and so on.
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dfinnecy
Social climber
'stralia
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Apr 14, 2011 - 11:39pm PT
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I wish the Access Fund would get off its lazy kiester and use some of those millions of dollars they are collecting to make Castle Rock safer instead of buying fancy dinners and hob nobbing with politicians.
Some people coming to the park bring ropes that look pretty old and frayed. Who knows how many microfractures there are in each carabiner used every day. I'm sure it is only a matter of time until someone gets hurt or worse!
All of the climbs should have permanent topropes and belay anchors installed just like Planet Granite. Then they could be tested and maintained properly. This will make climbing so much more safe and efficient and accessible to all climbers who may not be lucky enough to have learned arcane skills from the 'golden age' like redundancy and equalization.
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
bay area, ca
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Apr 14, 2011 - 11:40pm PT
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because you either don't have the experience/skill/equipment to set a proper anchor??
The top of these rocks don't really have the kind of features that allow you to build proper anchors considering the crackless sandstone, rusting bolts that you aren't allowed to replace, and most natural blocks being too large unless you're bringing an s-ton of webbing/static.
Not that having a belay pole like that on the top of every rock is any solution at all.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Apr 14, 2011 - 11:42pm PT
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all sarcasm aside, we may approach the park rangers about retro-fitting some anchors that REALLY need it. A couple are really bad...
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Wack
climber
Dazevue
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Apr 14, 2011 - 11:42pm PT
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I find it somewhat ironic that the Sierra Club placed that abomination on top of CR. If you look around there are many natural anchors in the Park. Goat Rock has the thumb to anchor to. For the overhang you can anchor through the cave. Climbing outside isn't about convenience.
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2011 - 12:07am PT
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How did they drill that thing? Can I just use a giant chisel?
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Apr 15, 2011 - 12:19am PT
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I find it somewhat ironic that the Sierra Club placed that abomination on top of CR.
It's not even really a safe anchor. I always kinda funk-rig it. I'm never really happy with it either. "It looks alright...".
It's a f*#king pole! And it ain't tall.
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2011 - 12:47am PT
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Girth hitch it with a long webbing loop. Get good at it, it will be the new standard.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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May 30, 2012 - 08:01pm PT
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In the official CRSP climbing brochure you'll see that State Parks says that you can install or replace anchors upon written request to the authorities. Anyone every tried that route?
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briham89
Trad climber
los gatos. ca
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May 30, 2012 - 08:27pm PT
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I'm thinking the don't ask don't tell policy should be adopted...who's going to get mad about replacing bolts in the same hole with safer bolts so people don't die???
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
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May 30, 2012 - 09:26pm PT
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You don't know Climber/Ranger relations in CRST very well briham89.
Let's just say, we are not seen as a desirable user group.
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briham89
Trad climber
los gatos. ca
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May 30, 2012 - 09:27pm PT
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^yes i do, but good point. I just think it's crazy
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briham89
Trad climber
los gatos. ca
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May 30, 2012 - 09:32pm PT
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Ya for sure. I am probably naive to meetings that have taken place in the past, but it seems that you would have to be just plain stupid to not let people replace dangerous bolts, when no new hole is being drilled. I know I'm ranting to the choir here, but it just ticks me off
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