Stonemaster stories

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bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Feb 6, 2006 - 07:45pm PT
oliver moon was a product of media fluff. i watched him try "how's yer momma?" for about three hours and all he did was rip his tips and grease out the holds for everyone else. 'couldn't even get his feet off the ground. pffft.

i'll come out and say it, even if you people won't: the dude was a poseur.
Gramicci

Social climber
Ventura
Feb 6, 2006 - 08:23pm PT
Never met Moon myself, everyone always said I should have been there yesterday. I bet there are lots of you guys out there that have a story about him. maybe even climbed with him?
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Feb 7, 2006 - 02:12am PT
I was bouldering at Indian Rock back in 1975 when a 13 year-old kid wearing a climbing helmet comes over and introduces himself and asks if he can climb with me. This energetic lad offered that he was training for his "dream" climb, Desperado Chuteout, an obscure line at Pinnacles National Monument. I had done an early repeat of route and he wanted to know everything about the climb.

We bouldered a bunch and went our separate ways. Peter Mayfield went way beyond hauling his skinny butt up a little know chossfest in central California.

Bruce
steelmnkey

climber
Phoenix, AZ
Feb 7, 2006 - 08:38am PT
Here's the Ski Mart ad (from Mountain #56):


Somebody oughta start a second thread here...gettin' pretty hard to load all of this from a dialup...
Jobee

Social climber
El Portal
Feb 7, 2006 - 11:11am PT
Awh come on Mussy post up! Every story you've ever told/written has had us LOL...and I know you've got many rabbits in that hat of yours..tell us a tale or two..pleeeeassse.
-jobee
Gentlemen: by the way Werner still climbs like a fiend! He's super fit and pumping laps on everything down canyon, the guy is 50yrs young. (the celery/carrots must be a secret weapon)
(he's gonna kill me for posting this..now i'm scared) sorry W.!
-jow







rbolton

Social climber
Glendora, CA
Feb 7, 2006 - 02:52pm PT

Ok

Here’s the story of my first real J-Elvis encounter. It’s the summer of ’75 or ’76. One of my first trips to the valley. I pull in to the lodge lot in my trusty Dodge Dart after getting a site in camp four. Grab boots and chalk bag and head in to the boulders East of camp. I get up a few easy things but get spanked by an overhanging face between swan slab and the lodge. As I sit in the dirt, eyeballing the problem, I hear this booming voice call out “Ho man, that looks hard. Mind if I give it a go?” I turn and see this…giant…tourist. Must be a tourist. He’s wearing flip-flops, jeans, a completely unbuttoned Hawaiian shirt and this pink, knit, pork pie Budweiser hat. The kind with cut up cans woven into it. He’s got a girl with him. I decide to humor him (he is rather large). “Sure, go ahead” I mumble. The giant tourist steps up to the problem, kicks off the flip-flops, crimps down on these two nasty little side pulls and fires for the summit. With two hands. Sticks it. Presses it out with feet dangling. The giant tourist laughs, collects the girl and stumbles off in the direction of the lodge. I decide not to have a huge gear sale in camp after someone informs me “Dude, that’s just Largo. He does that to everyone."
Gramicci

Social climber
Ventura
Feb 7, 2006 - 02:59pm PT
The cowboy boots on intersection rock was a pretty good show too!
Russ Walling

Social climber
This space for rent
Feb 7, 2006 - 03:22pm PT
There is now a part II for this thread as the download times are getting way up there. Please post all new replies to StoneMaster Stories to this link:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=150211&f=0&b=0

This is a link to Stanmaster Stories part II
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Feb 7, 2006 - 05:00pm PT
Great topic, reading all the stories got the memory banks working in my head. The old days are sort of hazy, cause it was such a long, long time ago and well you know we smoked herb by the ounce! I was able to do Valhalla in like 1976 with Mike Pope. We made many tries before we did that sucker and I still have a sore back from catching that huge 200 lb dude using the “hip belay.” That night at the celebration, we were drinking vodka Collins from a bleach bottle – the standard water bottle used in those days. Pope gets tired of waiting for the bottle to come back to him so he grabs the bottle of vodka and starts guzzling it down at a furious pace. We gave him the warning but he didn’t listen to US and in about 40 min he is just screaming drunk….that was one wild night in Humbler Park. But this is the story I want to tell. A few weeks after Valhalla, Largo comes over to me and tells me “you should go do the Drain Pipe, its right up your alley.” Now having Largo recommend a climb to you is sort of like having GOD himself gives you a commandment. Up at the rock John points out the start of the climb. This baby starts at the end of a ledge about 50 feet above the deck. We were all standing on this ledge getting beta from John and I was holding on to a large flake of rock and leaning back so I could get a better view of the holds. The flake comes off in my hands! Somehow I manage to flip around and grab hold of the ledge, just barley catching myself! So John, always cool goes “Ho-Man Hang ON!” He reached down and grabbed me by arm and just powered me back up to the ledge. That guy was/is the world’s strongest man. Fearing for my safety John walked me back a few steps to a large tree and tied me in using about 20 feet of rope….after, I was tied in, John and Dean F. rifled my back pack and took out my stash. What a bunch of pals! A few hours later Bullwinkle and I did the Drain Pipe. When I think about the STONEMASTERS I think about the whole California climbing scene back then and how much fun we had and how we were all really motivated to climb harder and better. The energy was fantastic and I feel privileged to have been able to hang with some of the best climbers in the world.

(I am sort of new to Super-topo..how do you get to see the photos??)
Bart Fay

Social climber
Redlands, CA
Feb 7, 2006 - 05:33pm PT

>>(I am sort of new to Super-topo..how do you get to see the photos??)

You have to provide age verification and a valid credit card number.
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Feb 7, 2006 - 07:09pm PT
GK, is that you?

After reading the "Acid" thread, I thought back to the time I drove up with you, Ed E, and Jessica from the Valley and did my first climb in the Meadows -- The Dike Route -- a mind blowing experience.
Mark Hudon

climber
OR
Feb 8, 2006 - 03:22pm PT
Well, it sure does my heart good to see all you crispies from the 70s here posting. I wish you all well.

I have two Tobin stories.

In the mid 70s, there was an article in Summit with photos of Tobin and Grammici climbing Insomnia at Suicide. I had just started climbing and I ached to get out to the west and climb routes like that.

A few year later I met Tobin and climbed with him for a little while. Once, we were at a party at the Ozone and John Long came over. He and Tobin started doing "boat races" with Tobin beating John every time.
Gramicci

Social climber
Ventura
Feb 8, 2006 - 03:30pm PT
Mark good to see you sign on.

Yeah but Tobin couldn't hold his liquor
Ed Bannister

Mountain climber
Victorville, CA
Feb 10, 2006 - 01:38pm PT
Mike, Tobin did the green arch, high. So, when I think about it, he was not holding any liquor at all.
Gramicci

Social climber
Ventura
Feb 10, 2006 - 03:39pm PT
Ed, I think Tobin was “high” in you’re vernacular once in his life. And it wasn’t on the green arch. Regarding his drinking he could “Boat” a Coca Cola as well as a beer. In Tobin's own words,” this tastes like cow piss” (beer that is)

Perhaps you meant high on life?
rmuir

Social climber
Claremont, CA
Feb 10, 2006 - 04:40pm PT
What Fish said somewhere upstream on this thread:

There is now a part II for this thread as the download times are getting way up there. Please post all new replies to StoneMaster Stories to this link:

[url="http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=150211&f=0&b=0"]
This is a link to Stonemaster Stories--part II [/url] (http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=150211&f=0&b=0);

Don't post more here. Move over to Part II.
Spencer Lennard

Trad climber
Williams, Oregon
Feb 11, 2006 - 01:25am PT
Hey John,

you might remember the time you and the stonemasters resued myself, Dibbs Sorenson, my brother A;l and Chris Robinson off of White Maiden's Walkway on Tahquitz. Also, remember Acapulco Bill's cliff dive on the Guillotine? I belayed him.

See ya,

Spencer
hashbro

Trad climber
Wiliams, Oregon
Feb 11, 2006 - 02:07am PT
Hey John,

Do you remember when you and the a classic cadre of Stonemasters rescued me, Dibbs Sorenson, my brother Al and Chris Robinson off of the White Maiden's Walkway in mid-winter, around 1972 or 73'? You hauled our 15 year old asses up the last pitch in the dark, hand over hand.

You may also remember Acapulco Bill's 120 foot cliff dive on the Guillotine at Suicide in the mid 70's. I belayed him and Randy and I pulled in around 50 feet of slack before he stopped inches above the ledge.

Spencer
bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Feb 11, 2006 - 03:10pm PT
I remember that night. We heard you guys screaming from Humber Park and then all hiked up the trail at night. Some of us hung out on Lunch Rock while Largo and crew went up top to get you guys. It was pitch black as I recall... totally nuts!!
Tommy Tope Rope

Social climber
Telluride
Mar 24, 2006 - 02:50pm PT
Hey Guys , guess who ? Graham you remember how cold it was that January in Jt. I followed Largo up my first solo of the damper . ? my hands were rattling no tape, had to mash em to stay in the crack. then I threw up at the top.


LARGO ALWAYS THE SAND BAGGER.
any guess's?
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