Philo, yes I ran those first two pitches together, thinking that
was how it was supposed to be done. And as I said I didn't put
in any protection. I guess that's what makes it such an
interesting photo. Cleve McCarty took the photo from across the
Supremacy was strangely difficult, especially if you didn't have
any experience at hand cracks. I had to teach myself how to
hand jam and how to use footwork to take some of the weight off
my hands. Later, though, the climb just got easier, what with
nuts and Friends to easily slide in. I've seen people climb the
Web, a 5.13 to the left of Supremacy and then not be able to
figure out Supremacy. One day I was ambling through the canyon,
not thinking I would climb, and some people were trying Supremacy.
They were swinging off and hanging around, and water was
dripping out of the crack -- which made it much more difficult.
I walked up and at one point casually made a suggestion about a
technique they could try. The guys looked at each other, and
one said, "Maybe you'd like to give it a try." I was in my
hush puppies, not very good for crack climbing. "Ok," I said. They
smirked and were prepared to teach this old know-it-all a
painful lesson. I did manage to climb it, even though it was
easily 5.12 with the slimey water. They were quite amused
I don't know the history that well but my brother thought we did a bunch of your routes this week in Eldo and Boulder Canyon. We did an 8 on Elephant buttress that was really great, a route on the Dome to the left, and a few routes in Eldo. All were really great crack routes from top to bottom. I am definitely taking my son there for an extended stay just need a place to crash(anyone willing to put us up in the back yard would be greatly appreciated}Eldorado is such a great place this thread should really be a huge feature on Supertopo. I think a lot of people don't post pictures or stories because so many great climbers go there and not too many new routes get put up, but it so chock full of classics it should be a long lived highly posted upon thread.
Bastille Crack then, long john wall, and the yellow spur. Not bad for a complete newb just coming off the flatlands. I think I met Pat Ament in the Boulder Mountaineer where I purchased the history of North American mountaineering. One of my favorite books of all time. Pat told me about watching the first pitch on the Bastille as a lot of people didn't protect it and grounded from about 20 feet up. It was good advice.
I had been hitchhiking to the top of Flagstaff and met a dude that was psyched to try climbing although he had never been. I hadn't made it out to Eldo yet since I didnt have a car. But I had some extra gear at a pad I was flopping in on Table Mesa so we swung through and grabbed it, then headed to Eldo. The corner at the top of the route was so good! And the guy actually followed it pretty well.
I'll never forget chatting with some chick at the belay above and her expression when I told her this my was my partners first climb. She just gave me this disgusted look and rapped off. HA!