What was your first climb in Eldorado Canyon?

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Messages 121 - 140 of total 194 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Apr 5, 2012 - 05:31pm PT
Rewritten - I felt like I was re-written after I followed that climb. Especially the traverse on the 4th pitch looking at all that exposure between your legs, smearing feet on next to nothing. Hands are awesome though. Really secure as I remember. Then on the 5th pitch my partner yelled down that I had to do the arete or he wouldn't belay me any further. So I was obliged to looking over the right side to see the 700 ft. vertical drop off. Then there is the river waaaaaaaay at the bottom of the canyon. I love exposure and it really gave me a thrill to be on that arete.
One of the most memorable climbs EVER!
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/rewritten/105750106
The walk off was a nightmare.
We climbed it 5 or 6 times. Always a thrill.
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Apr 7, 2012 - 05:09pm PT
Yellow Spur. Today. My partner did #'s 1, 5, 6 and I did 2-4. Got stuck at the base from 9 - 11am. Then stuck on the ledge above the third for about an hour and a half while a couple yahoos sorted out which way to go... my vote for best pitch is the fifth, though I really enjoyed the traverse below the roof on the fourth. Had no wires or stoppers. Had Masters 1-5, BD #'s .75 - 3 and some gusto... made for some sporty climbing...

Charles
TYeary

Social climber
State of decay
Apr 7, 2012 - 07:05pm PT
Bastille Crack! Wow what an intro to Eldo. Had it all to ourselves. Seems like a million years ago now.
TY
Bubba Ho-Tep

climber
Evergreen, CO
Apr 7, 2012 - 10:23pm PT
Not just first climb in Eldo, but first ever. Calypso, spring of 1970. Bastille crack that afternoon. Goldline tied on a bowline and liberal use of over driven pins. I remember well that there was one other party in the canyon and it was a Saturday....
deejay

Trad climber
AV
Apr 8, 2012 - 07:52am PT
West Butress of the Bastille. Pretty good climb as I remember.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
the secret topout on the Chockstone Chimney
Apr 9, 2012 - 11:08am PT
Snider and I climbed the Bastille Crack, came down and went up the West Face, and then ran up the Yellow Spur. That was it, we were hooked!
Magic Ed

Trad climber
Nuevo Leon, Mexico
Jul 10, 2013 - 10:38pm PT
Late Fall, 1967. Jim Erickson learned that I had climbed a couple of the lesser Mexican volcanoes so he invited me to go climbing.

He takes me to the West Buttress of the Bastille and tells me that's what we're going to climb. I thought he was joshing me--I'd never even seen a photo of someone climbing vertical, blank-looking rock. When I realized he was serious I panicked and talked him into going across the creek to the Wind Tower. At least that looked like it leaned back a bit and had some steps and ledges to it. He reluctantly agreed and we went and climbed one of the easy routes (The Bomb, I believe) to the top. We had no harnesses or belay devices, tying in with a bowline around the waist.

Now that I saw that he knew what he was doing I agreed to try the West Buttress. I struggled but got up it and have been hooked ever since.



Todd Eastman

climber
Bellingham, WA
Jul 10, 2013 - 10:44pm PT
Late Fall 1977 - Tagger with Jerry Hoover on a road trip from the Adirondacks.
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2013 - 08:34am PT
I still recall many "epics" in Eldorado during the early 1960's when we had the Canyon "all to ourselves." About the only person there other than a few solitary climbing duos, was Bill Fowler in his old black pickup truck out to collect some spare change for admission. It started out at 50 cents, but got up to $2.00 later on.
golsen

Social climber
kennewick, wa
Jul 11, 2013 - 09:06am PT
XM-Outersapce in 88 with Ruckman. He gave me the second pitch, said I would like it.
Josh Higgins

Trad climber
San Diego
Jul 11, 2013 - 09:15am PT
Just last spring I climbed in CO for the first time. My first, and only, route in Eldo so far was Jules Verne. What a fun intro to the rock! It was solid adventure, just the way I wanted it! I haven't thought I was off route that many times in quite a while. I'm spoiled by CA granite splitters I guess!

Josh
crunch

Social climber
CO
Jul 11, 2013 - 09:51am PT
Fall of 1983, I was real fit from a season of Tuolumne Meadows and Yosemite.

Inspired by the book Climb! plus one or two recent magazine articles about soloing and entranced by the steep juggy, colorful faces I think my first routes were a few free solos--Touch and Go to Anthill Direct and the very first route may have been a solo of the West Buttress of Bastille. No one else around.

T2 to Anthill Direct, ropeless, soon became a favorite.

After the insecure Tuolumne face climbs the Dakota sandstone felt safe and solid and comfortable. Dragging a rope along seemed almost unnecessary.

A lifetime ago....I'll bet I can barely pull myself off the ground on T2, now.
Crackslayer

Trad climber
Eldo
Jul 11, 2013 - 12:04pm PT
For the life of me I cannot remember my first route in Eldo. However, I do remember my first time in Eldo. Growing up in Boulder with athletic parents is a blessing. My parents were marathon runners and would take me hiking when I was younger. My mom took me to eldo once when I was about 4 or 5 and we hiked rattlesnake. I saw climbers on the west crack of the whale's tail and I just remember the feeling of inspiration (even though it is only 5.2 it looked so rad!).

Then experiencing eldo as a teenager and learning to climb there. One of the first climbs we did was blind faith but before we did that one I think I did a few climbs on the wind tower and then on the bastille. After BF we did yellow spur in the summer when I was 17, wow was that a mistake! Such a great canyon I appreciate it so much everyday. I love that canyon so much it hurts sometimes!

Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Jul 11, 2013 - 12:40pm PT
My first, and only, route in Eldo so far was Jules Verne.

Nice. I caught a huge fall on that. We had no idea of the route's reputation, just picked it out of the guidebook, lol. I think my first route there was soloing the Bastille Crack.
fluffy

Trad climber
Jul 11, 2013 - 12:43pm PT
chianti on a cool misty day in an empty canyon...perhaps '92?

thanks dave, wherever you are :-)
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Jul 11, 2013 - 01:00pm PT
XM to Outer Space -- probably with Wilford (or maybe Ken Duncan). Also did Yellow Spur and some other routes I can't remember that trip (1978?).
Alan Rubin

climber
Amherst,MA.
Jul 11, 2013 - 01:15pm PT
I'm pretty sure it was the Bastille Crack with Kevin Bein and Bob Harding in June, '70, though it is possible that we top-roped Supremacy Slab the evening before right after we arrived in Eldorado. Back then you could actually camp in the canyon and did so---and I don't recall that we molested any of the locals.
hamersorethumb

Trad climber
Menlo Park, CA
Jul 11, 2013 - 01:40pm PT
Bastille crack Spring break of 92'? We drove out from UNH. Started too late, 3 in party. Finished in the dark, couldn't find the trail back down and so scrambled down through spring snow. Made it back to rental car and discovered that we had dropped the keys somewhere along the way. Loved it!
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Jul 11, 2013 - 02:58pm PT
Yellow Spur April 1986 with Charlie Gray. Must have been a tricky move at the start of P1 protected by a red tricam because i remember that. me on top. photo by Charlie Gray.
Top of yellow Spur 10a variation april 86 photo by Charlie Gray
Top of yellow Spur 10a variation april 86 photo by Charlie Gray
Credit: tradmanclimbs
hossjulia

climber
Jul 11, 2013 - 05:07pm PT
My first route in Eldo was my first time on a rope. Whale's Tail. (I've told this one here at least a few times before)
Did the 2 5.easies, pulling a hold off the 2nd one and making it harder. (Verified)From 5.2 or 3 to a *solid* 5.4. snicker

Next up, the easiest route by Calypso, then Calypso itself. Nice day out for the first day climbing roped up.
I went on to climb Calypso about 20 times, eventually soloing it. (Not that day)

I say "climbing roped up" because I grew up by the Santee boulders and climbed all over them as a kid.

How I got from Santee to Eldo is a whole nuther story
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