Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 76 of total 76 in this topic |
Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 31, 2011 - 07:52pm PT
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This winter is about OW's. Have done some but need some tips from OW lovers as to what we haven't hit yet.
Suggestions appreciated.
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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Jan 31, 2011 - 07:54pm PT
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I don't care for OW too much, but Fisticuffs was pretty good.
Curt
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Scole
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jan 31, 2011 - 07:54pm PT
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Do my route "Master and Servant" over near "Crime of the Century"
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kc
Trad climber
sj, ca
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Jan 31, 2011 - 08:24pm PT
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Jumar of Flesh and the 10b next to it are good and on the very do-able side. Honestly, if you like OW's, they are all good! :)
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 31, 2011 - 08:29pm PT
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She's Champin' at the bit, I can tell!
I'm cracking the book, but Russ' route beta database over on the fetish was created for this!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Jan 31, 2011 - 08:30pm PT
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Dolphin will let you know whether or not you're serious, and at a moderate level. 5.7+/5.8-
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jan 31, 2011 - 08:31pm PT
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Take a break from Cali and come to Indian Creek in April for a choice selection of OW cracks that are not flesh eaters.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Jan 31, 2011 - 08:33pm PT
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Or come to Vedauwoo in June for some OW's that are flesh eaters.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 31, 2011 - 08:35pm PT
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Good suggestion, you like Moab, Beth. And take that ginormous tube!
I'm hoping to be out there this spring...
The damper, Mike's Books and Waterchute all have moderate moves susceptible to the wyde touch.
Oh, and Vedauwoo is The best place is in the western US, possibly anywhere, to move incrementally through the wide grades. Took me from Zero to generator crack in one season!
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scuffy b
climber
Three feet higher
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Jan 31, 2011 - 08:47pm PT
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If Looks Could Kill
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 31, 2011 - 08:51pm PT
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and it's easier incarnation on the other side of the rock, trust us on this one!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 31, 2011 - 08:51pm PT
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Apparently Where Janitors Dare is an offwidth, albeit 5.7. The Snatch, in Echo Cove, seemed somewhat offwidthy (5.10a).
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2011 - 09:00pm PT
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Andres, that's our OW warm up climb (Janitors).
And yes Jay, he's enough OW obsessed that you may see us there this summer. Hell. I'm getting that obsessed with them now.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 31, 2011 - 09:04pm PT
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17hrs each way from from the bay area. I just did SLC in 10.5.
I have beta where you can stop in SLC.
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Brian
climber
California
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Jan 31, 2011 - 11:00pm PT
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My favorite in Josh (only because it's the hardest offwidth I've done there and the effort nearly killed me) is Comfortably Numb. There are others that are much harder of course, but I only had "the sickness" for a short while before my friends staged an intervention and helped me realize what I was doing to myself...
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jan 31, 2011 - 11:18pm PT
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Try these Beth:
Toad Crack
Poodle Boy
Mushroom Crack
Kamikaze
Inner visions and it's neighbor (forgot its name), both on Duckwaddle Dome, around 5.9ish.
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Strider
Trad climber
ಠ_ಠ
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Ipecac over behind Rock Hudson I think. You really need to hate yourself to like that one though...
-n
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Championship wrestling.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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We're overdue for another Wide-fest. My rugby shirt longs for companionship.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Ipecac is a Brutus route too. Bonus style points if you hurl!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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We'll take you out to the Gristle Riley, that's about as pure as OW gets. Kamakazi and modern warfare flesh out the experience.
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Jingy
climber
Somewhere out there
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get in and stay in...
that's all i got for now..
cheers Fluoride
Where's widefest happenin?
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J. Werlin
Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
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The Hobbit Hole OW is always good if you are wandering the Outback.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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WIDE-FEST!
WIDE-FEST!
WIDE-FEST!
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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low-hanging fruit that's easy, comparatively classic, and easier to get partners for would include orphan and championship wrestling. smaller folks can get some action on fisticuffs, and it's close to other destination routes.
cw is esp. good 'cuz you could talk folks into going there to do the other, un-wide routes, then set-up and get a quick training session. face different directions, practice some stacks, etc.
i've not done a difficult ow at jtree that i would want to repeat.
comfortably numb was fairly unpleasant.
that short finger-chimney roof out off geology tour was an ordeal to engineer, but had cool moves. i guess with sketch pads and posses, folks might just hi-ball it now. i had to go out there twice before i felt comfortable risking that fall. can't recall the name.
never hoofed out to throbbing gristle.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Sounds like the "Castaway Roof" KLK, one of my fav boulder probs. with the tunnel through ending...
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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I always liked the Hobbit Hole o/w too. Good thrutching without the commitment.
A couple more:
Filch (5.6), nice, easy and conveniently located at Trashcan Rock.
Baskerville Left (.10a)
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Sounds like the "Castaway Roof" KLK, one of my fav boulder probs. with the tunnel through ending...
That sounds right.
Better than usual rock for jtree, not the typical grind-that-crystal-into-yr-quadriceps-before-it-explodes sh#t.
hey 'tusi, did you ever see that other bouldering roof out there, way past castaway? too low to tr, but talus sharks under the back, with pads now it'd probably be fine. really good stone, ultra-burly moves. went there twice and never got it. i'd forgotten about that thing until just now.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Here are a few:
Plummer's Crack - near Matrix Cove A short, cool wide thing that Kevin Daniels showed me & Murf a few years ago.
Flyaway - above the Bond Boulders. A widening gem that goes from hands to wide quickly. Hard for the 5.10+ rating.
Innervisions - another vote for this classic squeeze
Comfortably Numb - very cool if you can do it & even if you cannot, it's still mega good
Centurion - I have never tried this but it looks good.
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Murf
climber
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Hey Levy - I was the one who found that crack, not Kevin!
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Murf- sorry, my mistake! That thing was cool! Got any photos to share?
You should call me. I'll send you a e-mail.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2011 - 02:43am PT
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Jumars of Flesh is going down this weekend. The Foundry.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Wrestling is a fav, never done Jumar...
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2011 - 02:56am PT
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Did Championship Wrestling last weekend. Much easier than I remebered. Go in right and there's good right feet to help propel you up. Almost easier than Where Janitor's Dare, as it was so straight forward.
The Good, the bad and the ugly on the Wart is up next. Shudder. I remember watching Scuffy and co. on that and it was heinous.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Did you do it that day we were all there? You'll love it!
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2011 - 06:38am PT
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Ohhhhhhh Jay, no yet yes (good/bad). Steve mentioned the climb and I didn't recall the title then he showed me a pic of the climb on the Wart and I think I literallly recoiled. I knew right away of the climb (which most of us at Widefest except you burly ones wanted a part of). It's nasty. Crack to roof to traverse to leaning OW. Oh Hell no....yet yes, it'll go soon. With work. God I hate myself.
And we went out to the Inquisition. That's another on the list now. Good God. OW's I can deal with but now inversions. Ugh. Oh well, at least I can be his spotter/move the pad over the years to come. V6 inversion...got some time to work it out. May have to deal with those opening moves myself to get the inversion to straight-on. But then if you make it that far, the separate offwidth crack to the top. Insanity but one hell of a workout.
Makes me long for the straightfoward hardness that is Trobbing Gristle.
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426
climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Appendectomy Crack. Short but good from my spotty memory...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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The inquisition, did you see the recent video on the fetish of that guy floating it onsight? or the epic drama of Will and Russ there? Remember Pamela running up and down the pivot like 8 times that one day?
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2011 - 10:45am PT
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Pamela is a goddess. She schools us all on OW's.
And yes Jay, saw that video. That's what got Steve so motivated to want to try it. That guy sent it but with a lot of work. Now it's high on his list...will take time but the Inquisition will be a place to find us for at least the next year as he works it.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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You should see the photo portfolio of climbs she had at OR!
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Climbing Bump
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Beth, hit me up next time you see me and I'll show the THE list. 99% of the wide cracks in Josh sorted first by area, then by rating. Don't have an e-version, it's just handwritten on a sheet of paper hanging out of one of my guides.
Oh, and Jumar of Flesh, crux is hands over a bulge at the very bottom before the chimney, chimney is about 5.7+. Save a #1 camalot for the exit moves from the crack.
TR Six Pack crack while you're there, it's 6' to the right.
Jumar of Flesh:
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Hey Fluoride,
Check out Huge and Choice on the Castle.
Mega classic, completely overlooked 15 foot roof crack with hands, fist then burly OW lip encounter. By far and away my proudest Josh FA (not that I did many)
PB
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gonzo chemist
climber
Crane Jackson's Fountain St. Theater
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Jumar of Flesh looks cool.
Stay away from Mushroom Crack. That thing is a piece of sh#t. Bad rock, etc. Instead, do the other climb (not an offwidth), right next to it (Physical Graffiti). Its stellar!
Good, the Bad and the Ugly isn't too bad. The actual bad section is only like 12 inches of really annoying groveling.
Centurion is cool. But has a really intimidating entry (the crux). Its strenuous and if you blow it, you might splat on the slab under it.
Both Kamikaze (5.10c) and Modern Warfare (5.10a) look awesome, but I haven't done them, so I can't comment.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2011 - 04:07am PT
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Will, thanks for the beta on Jumars of Flesh.
e-mail me the list shillidaybeth@gmail.com. Or any weekend, head out with Steve (Cho) and I and we'll do some major OW'ing. That's our main focus these days and I know you're totally dialed in.
Chief - thanks for the suggestion!! Will check it out.
Good OW times ahead!
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2011 - 05:19am PT
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Riley just say when. We're there every weekend and would be happy to have another OW fiend on the rope.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Beth:
Don't have an e-version, it's just handwritten on a sheet of paper
e-mail me the list shilli...
Ummm....yeah.
Riley, back to weekend warrior status as of this week...3 day weekends every other week though, including the one after this weekend.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Take a picture of list?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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I never did...
If you guys get to GBU this weekend, have a good ! As I recall, the bar on the fun meter was set pretty high there.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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bonus for the z-clip.
dbl bonus for the tube or 2x4, have to wait until i get home to the big screen to work out which.
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dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
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Never heard of Plummers crack or Matrix Cove.Where are they?
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WBraun
climber
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Off-width roools.
It's the one of the most difficult climbing disciplines to master.
It will shut down most modern sport monkeys on any day.
They will run away just at the very sight of a wide crack.
Pussies .....
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2011 - 05:10pm PT
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I'm trying to remember what Jay said that was so hilarious both me and L were cracking up. Cause I am in stitches in that pic.
And yes, GBU will likely go down this weekend or next. Been studying the pics I took of you guys sending that day. It looks as heinious today as I remember it being then.
How are GBU and Championship Wrestling rated the same? CW is straightforward with good right feet into the wide. GBU just looks like hell. Crack to roof to traverse to curving OW. Not even in the same league as CW skillwise.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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kamikaze looks pretty cool, btw.
where's that? is there much more of it?
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Don't sweat it Beth - it's only 10a (5.9 on TR)
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scuffy b
climber
Three feet higher
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If it was so heinous, why aren't you showing me some compassion instead of
laughing?
Just kidding, I don't, and didn't, think it was anything to complain about
or avoid.
There was just one section about two feet long where I went very very
slowly, because I didn't want to thrash around.
One nice thing about the Good, the Bad and the Ugly is that you don't need
any really big gear.
klk, Kamikaze is at the Beak, or Beak Rock, or something. By Modern Warfare
and Throbbing Gristle.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2011 - 06:47pm PT
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PS - I love you all that embrace this insane technique. Thanks for the beta, advice, etc.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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"Body Shaving for Competition" is kind of a chimney, but sill pretty cool.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2011 - 09:50pm PT
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Thanks stahl, will check it out.
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Hey, Girl
Come out here if you’re in to the WO’s ( WO’s = Wide off sh#t ) with the Gang.
Dogtown.
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Byran
climber
Merced, CA
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The Firewater Chimney is maybe my favorite climb in Jtree. It's more of a calve burner stem-fest though, so maybe it's not burly enough to count. It does have a bit of easy squeeze near the top though. Fabulous rock quality.
No Self Respect and No Self Confidence both require some wide technique being flared grooves. They also require a variety of other techniques though. Speaking of those, has anyone here done Hyperventilation? That 10d flare over to the right of those on the Flying Fortress. The Troglodyte Crack also looks sort of cool. Never made the trip back out there to do those. Cinnamon Girl on the Tombstone also sounds pretty burly, although 5.11 OW is beyond me.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2011 - 04:11am PT
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thanks for the info, will be trying these in weeks to come.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 11, 2011 - 07:16am PT
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Fluoride, you guys out there yet?
I wonder what they're up to, today.....
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Steve L
Gym climber
SUR
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Feb 11, 2011 - 09:57am PT
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Jay, not yet. I'm at my desk watching the broken shell game we call the financial markets....and the sun rise over LA. No bloody hands until tomorrow.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 11, 2011 - 12:08pm PT
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time enough to bleed, and laugh.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Feb 12, 2011 - 12:02am PT
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Mar 22, 2011 - 10:19pm PT
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Boys and Girls, how's the wide-mojo-meter in Joshua Tree this weekend?
I'm coming! Show me the wide! I'll bring two pairs of Kirkland jeans that don't have holes yet.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 22, 2011 - 10:40pm PT
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Beth, there is a video of Spyork's that shows the events, with sound leading up to, and through, that moment. I don't remember rthe punchline either, and it escaped my lips!
Maybe it's on the Fetish?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 23, 2011 - 10:03am PT
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wyde bump.
There's some seismic rumbling in the wide force going on as we speak...
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| Messages 1 - 76 of total 76 in this topic |
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