Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 876 of total 876 in this topic |
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 29, 2010 - 02:09pm PT
|
So, what's been happening at Woodson?
Last years Woodson thread was cool, with plenty of pictures, stories, and beta. Given that it's the time of year when we seem to be relegated to bouldering more and doing routes less I thought it might be nice if we could get a thread started (and hopefully keep it running for awhile) where we could discuss Woodson activities, both past and present. Sort of like last year. Good posts and pictures help motivate, so help me out with the boredom fight that always seems to come around this time of year.
If you have pictures, post 'em. You got stories, post 'em. It doesn't matter what you did, let's hear about it. I know some of you locals have to be going up there, so what's happening? Anything new, or notable repeats? Oh, and by all means, don't neglect the smack talk and slander as those are key ingredients.
As for me, I'm on the verge of making my first Rubidoux based raid into hostile territory. I even talked the bighead (aka Woodward) into going. Should be good as long as the weather cooperates. Maybe we'll even finish "Welcome to Rubidoux".
Has anybody done Ace's High or Piece of Mind? I thought they were really good, Piece of Mind in particular. Thankfully they're face and not one of those silly fat things. Of course, if I've done them that goes without saying. Hey, maybe I should make MS a goal for the year. But if I can't find enough face holds and need to actually stick a body part in that thing, well, it could get ugly. Oh well, Reign1, you up for belaying?
bvb, dude, tell us a story or two. Maybe show us some of those countless pictures you seem to have.
Let's party.
|
|
blr
climber
socal
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2010 - 03:40pm PT
|
I myself haven't been out there much lately, but I've heard that some of new, younger crew have been doing some 'shwackin out to some of the not-too-often done (or found) problems. I have no doubt that they're sending a lot of 'em too.
I did manage a half-day out there recently giving Mucci the intro tour. Pretty sure he liked the place.
Unfortunately, no eye candy for 'ya, just a verbose "bump".
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2010 - 04:29pm PT
|
2005-07-07 -- WARNING! Circa 1985, I experienced a frightening dilemma while TR-ing the Mother Superior boulder on Mt. Woodson. I thought it would be beneficial to tell my story to help keep others from this desperate experience.
Ken belayed me from the popular chockstone belay as I, wearing a pair of loose-fit Levi's and a swami made from 4" tubular webbing, stacked and Leavit-tated thru the bottom section without missing a beat. Eventually, however, I came to the tight, final knee placement above. Here my pace slowed while I delicately slotted my right knee into the shallow, cup-shaped slot. I kipped my upper torso up, seated my next fist stack above and weighted my jammed lower extremity. Using desperate technique I gained a higher hand placement and attempted to remove my well-seated knee. Knowing how to remove stuck stopper placements (by backing them out the same way they were placed) I soon became aware that it was going to take a little longer to remove it than I hoped. I remained calm at first but after using every trick in the book and pumping out in the process I realized that it wasn't coming out. I asked Ken to give me tension and informed him of my dilemma.
My body weight was now firm on the rope around my torso, for I didn't have any leg loops. I grasped hold of the rope above to gain leverage and to provide relief from my constricted diaphragm. Nothing progressed quickly, however, so I asked my belayer to tie me off and assist. After applying two prussiks to the rope and securing his end, Ken chimneyed across until he was under me. He put his shoulder under my buttocks as a seat while I continued to work on my knee. But this didn't last long, for Ken became tired fairly quickly.
I needed leg loops and Ken knew it as well. He scrambled back to his equipment and put together a hasty pair of legs loops out of 1" webbing. But when we tried to apply them, we quickly realized that one of the leg loops wasn't going to pass over the stuck knee. Ken would have to form the leg loops around my legs while chimneying underneath me.
Suddenly... hope...
Ken and I heard voices coming up the road. We both froze, turned our heads and watched as five guys appeared from around the edge of the boulder. They happened to be U.S. Marines walking up Mt. Woodson's road for a good workout that day. We quickly recruited them to help out with our situation.
Being connected at the hip, as most Marines are and usually having the Sergeant of the platoon in charge, Sarge promptly asked what he could do to help. I told him that I needed relief from my make-shift swami belt and that I desperately needed leg loops. Working together as a team they took turns having me sit on their shoulders while one performed the delicate operation and eventually managed to tie loops around my legs! But, after all that time and trouble they spent, the loops weren't quite as effective as I needed them to be and it provided little relief. One Marine suggested that he cut my Levi's off in hopes of creating enough room to be able to free my knee. It sounded like a great idea and I was anxious to have it done. I started to worry though as the Marine pulled out his K-Bar and proceeded to slice my pants off from the ankles up! He had to leave the section around my knee for it was tightly wedged between my joint and the rock. He even hung his entire body weight on the matierial from below but couldn't manage to free the last piece.
I was spent at this point and everyone else was sensing the acuity of the situation as well. The Marines started to lose their continuity, the volume of their vioces started to rise and nothing was being accomplished. I seemed to be the only one able to think straight so I spoke out loudly and told Sarge that he needed to send one of his guys down the mountain to the Forestry Department station at the entrance to the mountain and get help. Sarge quickly assigned the task and one of his grunts started the run down the road.
Just as he gave the command Ken's girlfriend, who was sitting on the rock behind watching this whole scene unfold, pulled a tube of sunscreen out of her purse and said, "Why don't you try some of this?" My whole body was starting to cramp, not to mention the excruciating pain that was eminating from my now swollen knee, and any new suggestion gave a glimpse of hope to an already desperate situation. A motivated Marine grabbed the tube of hope and shimmied back across the chimney to squeeze the sunscreen in every open place he could see around my knee. After putting out as much effort I could stand my knee started to move within the confines of the rock! Within moments my knee started to slide up and out of the slot. As it popped free from the rock's grasp my body swung away from the overhanging crack and I slumped forward onto the rope. A rush of pain and relief raced thru my body. A reverberating hoot and "OORAH!" came from the tired Marines as Ken celebrated with them. Ken quickly put me back on belay and lowered me to the dark cave below. He and the Marines assisted me back up to the road to a much-needed rest atop the rock.
But what had gone wrong? My pants had ridden up my leg, bunching at the knee and causing it to wedge tightly in the crack. What I learned from that day on Mt. Woodson was, one, to always wear a harness, at least on Mother Superior and, two, remember to tape the cuff of my Levi's down to prevent them from riding up my leg. I had known this prior but I had no tape to do so and wasn't patient enough to simply come back another day. Had I done this, however, I wouldn't have experienced this situation up on the mountain. I guess I was lucky, for I only suffered some scrapes, a sore knee and a little embarrassment.
|
|
Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2010 - 04:32pm PT
|
Training for Cameron's Traverse starts tomorrow.
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2010 - 04:45pm PT
|
This time with the proper attire...
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2010 - 04:48pm PT
|
Pretty damn busy dealing with the blizzard we're hving in Flagstaff right now, but I got a million good Woodson stories that have not seen the light of day, and the statute of limitations has probably passed.
Stay tuned.
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2010 - 04:50pm PT
|
Henny ropeless on his onsight ascent of "Hard As Nails," 5.11b...
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2010 - 04:55pm PT
|
Always loved this one of Paul Schweizer on "Jaws," 5.11 (b.i.t.d.)...
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2010 - 05:09pm PT
|
Ethan Pringle highballing "Grainstorm," 5.12...
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2010 - 05:21pm PT
|
We're all ears bvb... You're not going to toss out some dirt on gonamok, are you?
Dang, it's cold here right now, snowed this morning. Makes those pictures of bouldering in the sun look really inviting. Chance of showers this Sunday?
|
|
scuffy b
climber
Three feet higher
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2010 - 06:38pm PT
|
I like a good stuck knee story.
They always have a happy ending.
But...a swami made from 4" tubular webbing? Really?
|
|
Juan Maderita
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2010 - 07:11pm PT
|
Sure. 2" tubular webbing has 2" on the front side and 2" on the back side.
That's 4" !!
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2010 - 07:22pm PT
|
Yep, just as cartographers create errors on their productions for copyright purposes (wink).
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Dec 30, 2010 - 12:15am PT
|
Fog still covered the knolls on Woodson's east slope that early Saturday morning. I unpacked and prepared my rucksack when a familiar voice caught me from behind. I turned and watched Ken walk down the narrow shoulder of the highway towards me.
"Hey," Ken greeted.
"Mornin," I replied. Ken never said much but I always knew he had plans and that it was going to be tough staying up with him. He was a great asset to have when you needed motivation. We were young and probably in the best shape of our lives for I was not only climbing, but swimming and riding road bikes as well. Ken had taken off from Rancho Benardo, an hour before me, on his bike, wearing his fully loaded climbing kit on his back, and met me there. Ken's an animal I'm telling you! We were both ready to test ourselves on the mountain.
We warmed up on the practice boulders, continued up to TV Screen to break in our rubber further, and then took a quick walk over to Slant Crack. Dropping back down to the road Ken continued and detoured up and over to the Long's Cracks. Leaving our ropes behind, and without saying a word, I shoed up, stepped into the corner, then flowed powerfully and through the crux at the top. Ken arrived shortly after as we gave each other "knuckles" and walked back to the base. Our blood was starting to flow.
"What do you think about "Driving South?" I asked.
"I'm not up for it but you're up, and if you want, I'll give you a spot," Ken encouraged. This was a test-piece for me but I was feeling strong and really wanted it this morning. Fifty percent of the time I nearly end up on my butt walking down the slippery trail to D.S. and this morning was no different. Ken laughed. I can't seem to avoid it!
Anticipating the hurt, I continued to chalk up and massage my knuckles a little longer for the second knuckle on the left middle finger really gets worked early on. I wiped my feet on the piece of carpet.
"Right hand, thumbs down, left hand, thumbs up, left toe on the square edge, then crank through to a crappy right hand, thumbs down below the lip," I pantomime and rehearse in my head. I get through the lower sequence without a hitch, my feet kipping up at this point, squeezing the offset with my toes. I bump the left hand up and over the lip to a bomber, flaring, thumbs up left hand. Things need to move quickly here for my groin can only crush for so long. An incredible body tension move allows me to hoist my torso up over the lip a bit and reach a single digit right index finger pod about eighteen inches higher. Somehow, my right foot comes up underneath me so I'm sitting on it at the lip. This, combined with friction, allows me to precariously release my left hand and find another single digit, left index finger jam, which enables me to get up onto my feet and finally become established. It's fifteen feet of 5.9 to the top from here. I was fried but I pulled it off...thank God! Gathering up my stuff, Ken meets me up at the road. We take a short walk up and put our gear down below "Blasted Rock, #2." The weather is still comfortably chilly as we ready to enjoy the knobs on this gem. Ken breaks out one of his infamous healthy snacks which he is known for and sharing with me when we're together. His Mother taught him well.
Suddenly...
"Did you hear that?" I asked.
"Whoa, dude, that sounded like a person," Ken replied quietly. Our eyes were both looking in the same direction up and behind where the "Silk Banana" was located. Spontaneously getting up onto our feet we started walking slowly up the slope, listening intently for another sign. We both agreed that we had heard a faint moan that sounded like it came from a girl. We arrived and walked along the base of the arching flake when we heard the sound again, but this time, above us. We quickly made our way around and to the top of the formation where we found a disturbing sight. The petite body of a girl lay in a fetal position wearing, what appeared to be, climbing attire with her chalk bag visible around her waist, her feet were bare, pale and ice cold to the touch. The tips of her toes looked blue. Her blonde hair covered the side of her face. I, being a Paramedic, checked her pulse at her wrist and it was regular but rapid and weak. Again, her skin was ice cold and wet to the touch.
"Are you okay?" I asked, trying to assess her airway and level of consciousness. She didn't respond. I firmly pinched the skin on her tricep and she withdrew appropriately.
"What do you want me to do Gary?" Ken asked.
"Right now we need to keep her warm. Go down and get our jackets if you would for me." I delegated. Ken quickly ran down to the road and returned, placing both jackets over the girl. I did a quick head to toe exam and found a large hematoma to the back of her head. There was no obvious bleeding. Her back was clear as well. I asked Ken to help me lay the girl onto her back. She moaned as we tried to lay her legs flat, preferring to keep her knees bent. We left them in situ. I opened her eyes and her pupils were unequal. Her abdomen was distended and firm to the touch. She moaned when I pushed on it. She was incontinent of urine.
"Ken, this girl is in a bad way. We need to get help. You know that CDF station down at the base?" I asked.
"Yep." Ken quickly responded.
"Hopefully someone is on duty. If not, go to a house. Go down and let someone know what we have and get an ambulance up here as quick as you can. I'll wait here with her. Be careful!" I spoke as calmly as I could.
"I'm on it," he said, quickly disappearing down the mountain. An hour or so passed but eventually an ambulance and rescue truck arrived with Ken as well. After they took control of the situation, we assisted in placing her into a stokes litter and down to the road into the ambulance. Standing in the road, we watched as they left.
We never did find out what had happened to the girl nor what her outcome was but it was a day up on Woodson that we'll never forget!
|
|
REIGN 1
Social climber
Carlsbad, Ca
|
|
|
Dec 30, 2010 - 01:33am PT
|
Henny, I'd take great pride in belaying you on MS. That wimpy climb goes in shorts "if" you have good technique. I'm fully recovered after your hundreds of attempts on "slap you silly" that one cool afternoon. Did you ever do Ricks problem just right of "deport johnny" called "forever"?
I'm feeling pretty strong after I cruised snake dike last June. Also that picture of you on "hard as nails" looks photoshopped to me. Did Powell help you with those pics? I've seen some of his wilderness pics and most look like wild animal park photos shopped into his outdoor landscape pic. How's the snowpack up there? I'm thinking about doing a winter ascent of Whitney. That way I won't have to do any of your new stuff in the portal.
Do you snowboard?
|
|
Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
|
|
|
Dec 30, 2010 - 06:18pm PT
|
DAY ONE TRAINING REPORT: Forgoed training for Cameron's Traverse today . Instead contemplated look on Eee-on-kee's face when told of easy on site flash and downrating. Studied topo of Snakedike.
|
|
Ken
Trad climber
Arroyo Grande
|
|
|
Dec 30, 2010 - 08:51pm PT
|
Mckay,
It's Ken. Just got back from Robbins, tv screen etc. etc.
Only in town for the day and had a few hours with both kids in tow. Had to entertain them as well as try to climb.
I would of called if had more time.
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Dec 30, 2010 - 09:16pm PT
|
Now, what are the chances that you'd pop in after sharing the story above ?! Always good to hear from you Ken. We'll get another chance again I'm sure. Have a great and safe new year and a safe trip home. Tell your family I said hello for me.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
|
Dec 30, 2010 - 09:30pm PT
|
Woodson always looked really cool to me. I gotta make it out there.
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
|
Dec 30, 2010 - 09:43pm PT
|
So far this season I've managed to get on a lot of "roadside obscurities" as well as some not-so-near-the-road gems. Got on Donny's Par 3 a couple weeks ago...man that thing is wild! Also finally checked out Coco's Cruise...really good easy slab. I hardly ever bring a camera to document the flailing, but here are a few from recent times (minus the first two).
Lots more climbing days than those shown above...I'll try to bring the camera more often.
Does anyone know if the rattlesnakes actually hibernate during the winter or do we just circulate the idea so that we have more courage to explore?
And what's the deal with someone rating that short pinned-out seam at Rexrodes 11+?!?! ...SANDBAG
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
|
Dec 31, 2010 - 08:57am PT
|
Wow! What's all the commotion?
...'NUFF SAID!!
|
|
Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
|
|
|
Dec 31, 2010 - 06:34pm PT
|
DAY 2 TRAINING REPORT: Training temporary postponed due to New Years Eve party preparations.
|
|
gonamok
climber
aging malcontent
|
|
Hey I saw that henny.
They say Ive lost a step, but the jokes on "them" because Ive lost the whole LADDER! Nonetheless, I can still approximate a reasonable facsimilie of a genuine climber as long as I dont get on any rocks, and IVE GOT MY EYE ON YOU, young man.
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
By the looks of that ambulance that picture predates the '86 contest and '82 comtest at Magnolia Boulders!
Now that's a scary picture Ron!
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
That photo was from the '86 contest.
I believe Shawn Curtis was part of the ambulance crew.
Watusi would know for sure?
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
Sheesh, I guess I'm dating myself by saying that! I worked in EMS for seventeen years and don't remember ambulances looking like "Mother, Jugs, and Speed" back then! Not sure, but I think that is me in the light blue windbreaker with my back to the camera, in the group to the right of Painted Boulder. My mentor, Roger Barnes, is in white painters pants to my right, great memories. I still say that there must be more pictures out there from that contest. Thanks for posting!
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
Phil Bard, is that you "deepnet"?
Edit: Okay, it's Rick Allenby...sorry Rick!
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2011 - 11:40am PT
|
Pretty good weather the past couple of days. We saw plenty of people on the mountain yesteday taking advantage of almost perfect conditions.
An interesting note, we went to the TV Screen with Woodward. His observation was that the ground had significantly eroded under the left arete (his namesake problem) and that it wasn't even the same problem anymore since it could no longer be started directly underneath the arete. Acting as the restoration foreman, he directed the activities to place a couple of large flat boulders under the start to stop ground erosion and return the level to the approximate level when the FA was done. Please leave them, they are flat and should pose no problem with a pad covering them.
Later in the day we also managed to ferret out a new problem in the vicinity of Bad Boys/Laker Girls - The Light of Day. Pretty good crimping with a semi-bald exit.
I thought I was getting decent pictures of JW setting up for and making the HDTV throw but I leaned back to keep him in frame and ended with pictures of my foot instead. Brilliant. I think Johansolo may have some pictures of the dyno, maybe he'll post them. What a great problem HDTV is.
|
|
eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
|
|
Great thread Henny.
The past couple days have been super good up on the hill. We got rained off the Seminar Wall today but got in a bit of climbing.
Walked by the TV Screen boulder. Nice job on the landings. Next time I go up I'll be bringing pads. I had always wondered about the Woodward arete. Looked impossible to get up on to with the eroded landing.
Sat. we went to Arch Crack, Grainstorm and Big Man on Campus. And we finished the day on the Sail. The Sail is SUPER good. Although it's a little scary to solo up the south/west side of the boulder?
Fri. we went to the Welcome Home area.
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
The foot Darrell, the foot...we want to see the foot!
|
|
eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
|
|
By the way, Doug probably made the proudest send of the fall season.
|
|
sneville
climber
|
|
Eliot,
Where is the welcome home area? What is that arete called? Also I thought elsa's was hand size not #5 and#6.
Sean
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2011 - 10:37pm PT
|
I know, I can't spell. Foot, not food. Anyway, here's the requested picture of Woodward doing the HDTV dyno.
BTW, I'm not sure I really want to know anything about any crack that takes #5 and #6 cams. Nice picture, though.
|
|
Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
|
|
Out at Lilac Boulders....two new problems wished I could have seen yo and Woodward tackle. So far very close, but undoable,,,,,but doable.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
I did manage a half-day out there recently giving Mucci the intro tour. Pretty sure he liked the place.
Blr, Mucci called me on the drive home and said he'd visited Woodshun with your help. Not sure if you know the Mucci gruffness, but I asked how it was and immediately got a classic 'uhfff' sound out of him. Which means grim + good in the same sound.
We should have gone down for a day, instead managed some fun in IC at JT.
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2011 - 12:31pm PT
|
Yeah Eliot, we got rained off yesterday also. Luckily, it didn't start until we were pretty much done for the day though.
The Sail is pretty good isn't it? Did you do Bedford's problem on it as well as the standard route? Post pictures of the Sail if you got 'em. The solo to set up the TR is a bit spicy, considering where you'll go if something were to happen and you came off at the start. Of course, when I went to set it up I was there with Bedford and had absolutely no sympathy for what would happen to me. Something about I was being a "whiner", in spite of the fact that knucklehead only has about 2 feet of reach on me. I have some great friends.
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2011 - 12:52pm PT
|
Lynne, your call made a good argument for joining you guys Sunday. I'm caught up in trying to finish something though, so we opted for another day at Woodson. Sounds like you guys had a good time, I'll have to check the place out...
|
|
eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
|
|
Unfortunately no pics of the Sail. I'll have to head back out there soon.
We did set up two TRs on the Sail. One that follows the obvious dishes and crimps up until you have to make a move right to a xenolith. I think that's the standard route.
We also set up a TR to the right of that. The start was heinous and would take a lot more work to figure out but I linked some sharp crimps and side pulls from about 7ft. off the ground.
Is that Bedfords route? There might have been another route to the left of the standard one too?
I just realized the solo is on the east side of the boulder with the chasm of doom landing. I opted for the west side with the manzanita spiked landing.
Much more to come, Woodson season is here...
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
Uhhhhh....I ran into Eliot, et al at seminar wall as well and have absolutely nothing positive to report but that I felt like a fat pig...you got a problem with that? Hmmf!
|
|
REIGN 1
Social climber
Carlsbad, Ca
|
|
Yeah that route bedford put up on the sail has some hard moves at the start and stays good for a bit with crimps and side pulls. He had a talent for verticle crimping bitd. Haha
I think it's solid 11.c
And I had hennys back when he set up the sail. At least I would have called someone to go find him when I got home that night if he failed on the solo lol
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
|
|
I got a million good Woodson stories that have not seen the light of day ... We are all ears.
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
Anyone heading up M - F ? I'm free from 0830 - 1430.
|
|
Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
|
|
D. Hensel, Hope you guys accomplished your mission ...... or at least had fun at giving it a go. A guy came into Nomad Ventures, Temecula yesterday and described you guys to a t. He was at Woodson and was pretty amazed at how you guys were firing. He had no clue :D He and I had a good chuckle when I mentioned some of the stuff you all have done. Cheers !
|
|
blr
climber
socal
|
|
Here you go Eliot. The only picture I took all weekend.
I had to let Eliot know about the large bone that we found directly underneath him as he was soloing too.
Mungeclimber, that helps explain some of the noises I was hearing... heh.
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
A few notables up on Woodson today...
Pat Goodman on his third attempt...
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
I must say I was fully astounded by the quality of the stone.
Equally astounding was how attractive a few of the 20 or so female prisoners were that passed us on the way up.
Three hikers told me that I made the robbins crack look hard!
You have to try pretty hard at woodson.
Thanks for the tour B!
Mucci
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2011 - 10:56am PT
|
Nice. Keep the pictures coming...
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
No photos Eliot?
Edit: Texts received from Eliot, "Batteries were dead, sucks!...Got on Hard As Nails, so amazing! My new favorite climb!"
|
|
gonamok
climber
aging malcontent
|
|
Cool! What better way for the confusion over woodwards arete to be settled than by jonny himself coming down to spank that thing and send it home to mama. Good to see you on the hill, JW!
Erosion has lowered the ground around some problems at woodson by 3 feet or more in the past 20 years or so, especially on the north slope, where some really huge boulders are so undercut they appear ready to roll.
You used to start top secret file by grabbing chunks on the right side, planting the left foot on the slab and hucking onto it. The ground is now so low you cant reach the chunks, and the left foot smear is about chest high. If it goes, its way way harder now.
Does anybody know if its been done recently?
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2011 - 02:07am PT
|
I don't know of any Top Secret File repeats. Never seems to have chalk on it either. But, I do know it has been tried a couple of times and that on at least one occasion it was close to being repeated.
I suspect that the comment "If it goes, its way way harder now." is very likely going to amp the guilty party back into action for the repeat. I guess we'll just have to wait and see if the bait is taken.
(Edit: Wait, thinking about it I believe Bedford said he's repeated TSF. Still, I'd guess no more than a couple of repeats total. Then again, if Bedford could do it, there's probably been a stack of people who... hehe)
It was cool wandering around up there with JW. He had a good time, I wouldn't be surprised to see him come back if he gets a chance. I get the feeling he'd like to spend some time putting up new problems.
Thinking about JW's arete I came up with a question. What other bouldering areas have as many good arete problems? The TV screen has 2, just by itself. And I can think of quite a few others that are similar, not to mention the ones like Slap You Silly that are rounded. Other areas have aretes, but it seems that Woodson has proportionately more - is that a true observation? Where else is there as high a volume of good granite aretes?
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
Can't forget this gorgeous arete!...
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
Gonamok, how has the start to Top Secret File eroded so much? That's currently a project of mine and I've just been starting it with my hands on the flake and feet on the adjacent rock...first mantling onto the flake and then stepping onto the window pane that is the slab itself.
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
Oh, and word on the hill is that it has seen a couple repeats.
|
|
Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
Illusiondweller; beautiful photo of that arete. If that isn't The Sail, it should be!
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
Actually, that's "The Dragon", 5.10d over the summit of Woodson, by the Ogre. That photo isn't mine, it appeared last year or so ago.
Here's another classic of Bob Van Belle soloing it, b.i.t.d.,...
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2011 - 04:42pm PT
|
Kinda nice to know the current status on Top Secret File.
Personally, I have little interest in the problem. It just seems that I never see any chalk on it. Of course, even though it's not all that rare that I go up there I'm not really a local so there may be times when I just don't see it.
Cool.
|
|
rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
|
|
Henny...you knew it was coming.
|
|
p-owed
Social climber
Ramona ca
|
|
I'm headed to stone wall sat.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
Is there a Woodson Shindig this year??? When?
|
|
BeeHay
Trad climber
San Diego CA
|
|
Oh gawd, here it comes...
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
Yup, time to pass around the bowl of Chill Pills...This guys needs a couple bad!
Last year's Off White photo.
|
|
dirt claud
Sport climber
san diego,ca
|
|
If you're in the SD area sometime Bluey, hit me up and we can go check Woodson as well as some of the other San Diego gems. I live right the the base of a nice rock face that appears to have much potential as well.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
I'll prolly be down there in April, Dirt. My wife and son are visiting a friend in L.A. and maybe her bro on Coronado. She said I didn't need to tag along but I pointed out that there's climbing in them there hills, "I'll go".
I will contact you when have I have more details. I know nothing of So Cal climbing outside of Josh.
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
"Oh gawd, here it comes..."
Yeah, that shindig last year turned out to be a flop, so, I wouldn't encourage anyone to run with another one any time soon.
On a more successful note, although a chilly, foggy day up at Woodson this afternoon, Pat Goodman and Jessa Goedell returned with "the Verm" in tow, to make another assault on the mountain. Goodman, on his first visit to Mother Superior, repeated it "three times" to include both exits at the "Y." Jessa Goedell fired Driving South earlier in the day. I can't recall ever hearing of another female on/successful at D.S., anyone? "This place is amazing!" Goodman exclaimed. They are off to J-Tree tomorrow.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
Yeah, that shindig last year turned out to be a flop,
I'm assuming that's sarcasm...
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
last year as in 2010, not 09. I think it was 09.
Mike. when was that?
That was hella fun. Bvb was a great tour guide. Got to meet Gordo and confirm some stories. Met Offwhite, Phantom X, Klimmer, watched guys like Levy, Grug, Scuffy float some wide, met and watched a bunch of others. Got on some problems I hadn't done before too.
good times are where you make them.
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
I thank God for it's success Jaybro. I had a blast, really, it was a "kick in the pants" serving others. Everyone else really "made it happen" as I was told they would by Ron Gomez. It was my first time being involved like this in my nearly thirty years of climbing and I don't regret it a bit. Overall, it was met with great participation and enthusiasm. Tom and Elke Lindner summed it up the best by saying to me, "Thanks for the trip down Memory Lane." By passing out the Word, and hearing Tom and Elke, my mission was accomplished.
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
Forgive the wrinkles and dirt for I just dragged this out of my laundry...
|
|
mooser
Trad climber
seattle
|
|
Is Jessa Goedell related to Dave Goeddel? Spelling's different, but wondered if it was a typo, or...?
|
|
F10
Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
|
|
"Oh gawd, here it comes.."
more laundry...
|
|
ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
|
|
My man Jack Prebel(sp)Marshall! Note the old schooland totally real swami above. Marshall hauled up about 30 beers on ice that day for everyone to enjoy...thanks bro!
Hadn't seen Jack in like almost 30 years until that day! I about lost my balls when I saw him in the parking area with that shirt! Loved it, it is so Prebel!The BIGGEST Ball Cupper.....Jack!
Peace
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
Sorry, its Jessa Goebel not Goedel. Pat Goodman and Jessa are instructors for climb-fit.com...
Pat Goodman...
Jessa Goebel...
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2011 - 12:39am PT
|
I wanna see a huge "Welcome Ballcuppers!" banner down by the road this time.
2010 was big fun!
|
|
p-owed
Social climber
Ramona ca
|
|
|
Jan 11, 2011 - 10:40pm PT
|
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jan 12, 2011 - 04:49am PT
|
Hey, that's me being belayed on "Bozo-No-No," 5.10b at Mt. Woodson during the 2010 Reunion, for pictures! I sure wish I could post the photo that was taken by Nathan Smith of this that day!
|
|
gonamok
climber
aging malcontent
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2011 - 01:15am PT
|
Doug, runoff from the road falls to the north side (right side as you walk up) and you can see the massive erosion on that side of the roadbed if you check it out. During a hard rain the road turns into a stream. Boulders along the road fall fairly regularly. If you take a look around, you will see that more than anything, Mt Woodson is a world of erosion.
|
|
gonamok
climber
aging malcontent
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2011 - 04:09am PT
|
secret problem on the hill
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jan 14, 2011 - 05:11pm PT
|
b.i.t.d.?
|
|
gonamok
climber
aging malcontent
|
|
|
Jan 15, 2011 - 12:56am PT
|
absolutely
|
|
gonamok
climber
aging malcontent
|
|
|
Jan 15, 2011 - 01:06am PT
|
I tossed out March 19 and 20 as a good weekend to get together at woodson this year, march 20 being the first day of spring. What do you think? Just a suggestion, but it would be fun to get a mob up there again.
I also want to say I thoroughly enjoyed last years shindig. Gary you did a great job! Thanks for everything.
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jan 15, 2011 - 03:18am PT
|
Too bad only BVB and Offwhite showed up at Lynne's party. I was really hoping to see you all, Eppi, Ron, Brad, Ray, Jeff, etc., together to enjoy what they put together that night. You guys were very influencial in my climbing through the years and it would have been my opportunity to thank YOU all for "the trip down memory lane." Again, it wasn't because of me that it came together the way it did for if it was up to my "stinkin' thinkin' it would have been a mess!
|
|
Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
|
|
|
Jan 15, 2011 - 10:12am PT
|
Nonsense Illusiondweller, you did a fantastic job. And think of all the super people that did show. Hey, Mimi and Steve Grossman came all the way from the Northwest :D Sarahfunky from Sacro area and Nathan Smith from Utah to name just a few.
|
|
p-owed
Social climber
Ramona ca
|
|
|
Jan 15, 2011 - 11:05am PT
|
I'm bummed i missed the party! i had transport problems at the time
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
|
Jan 15, 2011 - 11:44am PT
|
Big Grunt bump
|
|
BeeHay
Trad climber
San Diego CA
|
|
|
Jan 15, 2011 - 12:23pm PT
|
Wanted to hit the party (had a blast at Salad's after the 1st annual), but a bunch of us was Test Tubin' until the last ray of sun, needed food bad by the time we got down. Mex food in Poway won out, had a good group there too...
BH
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jan 16, 2011 - 03:49am PT
|
I didn't mean just BVB and Offwhite showed at the party, but out of the group that I mentioned, that were influential to me, only BVB and Offwhite showed. Those that I did meet at the party were a kick and really looked comfortable in your home Lynne, what a really big and warm set up you have, wow! And the food that was provided, cha-ching, it was great! The fresh oranges, guacamole, chicken salsa, tortillas, deserts, all awesome! Some lady was even walking around offering samplers as I walked up the driveway to your home and with the multimedia projection out on your driveway I thought, "Now this is what I'm talkin' about!" Thanks to those that were responsible for that.
As you know Lynne, I don't take credit for anything in my life anymore but give it to the almighty God, it was Him that did the "fantastic job"!
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jan 16, 2011 - 04:09am PT
|
I just came down off the mountain tonight with a younger, strong, motivated kid, Patrick. Unfortunately, I don't have any new pictures to share but I showed him some more classics which he'd never been on like: Blackfinger, Elephants Trunk (crack and face), TV Screen (both sides of the right edge and got humbled on the new HDTV), Slant Crack, a roadside mantle, and played on Blasted Rock #2 till dark. It was a good day for all!
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jan 16, 2011 - 04:22am PT
|
Hey Ron, your picture, that isn't the backside of "The Spud" is it?
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
|
|
|
Jan 16, 2011 - 04:34am PT
|
whoa nelly .. .
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
|
Jan 16, 2011 - 11:10am PT
|
Holy shit! That is a striking feature. How does that rig get protected? Just don't fall?
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jan 16, 2011 - 04:46pm PT
|
That's Big Grunt...as the name implies, its a "grunt" to do this without letting out one. I always offer anyone $20 if they can get through it without expressing themselves. Haven't had anyone succeed yet. Its a squeeze chimney start and opens up to knees then classic width up top. It's very secure unroped and its only 5.9...Woodson 5.9, that is.
|
|
gonamok
climber
aging malcontent
|
|
|
Jan 16, 2011 - 09:33pm PT
|
Gary, its on the south slope, downhill from the playground area. Was a bushwhack to access at the time, and since we didnt cut a trail you can be sure its completely brushbound now.
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
|
Jan 16, 2011 - 10:03pm PT
|
Ron, didn't you crank that thing with both left and right hand presses?
|
|
Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
|
|
|
Jan 16, 2011 - 11:19pm PT
|
Big Grunt is much much harder with a "sit start." Just curious... anybody have a grade for that?
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jan 16, 2011 - 11:33pm PT
|
Rick, do you guys ever stop with the "yarns"? By the look on Ron's face it appears to me that he's picking a careful landing amidst the MANZANITA!
|
|
gonamok
climber
aging malcontent
|
|
|
Jan 17, 2011 - 02:53am PT
|
Manzanita indeed!....it was mostly sage and scrub oak
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jan 17, 2011 - 03:12am PT
|
Scotty highballin' Left Long's Crack, 5.10d
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jan 17, 2011 - 03:22am PT
|
Chris Kleppe styling a roadside gem, Maria's Problem...
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
|
Jan 17, 2011 - 08:27am PT
|
Gary ,Wadda'ya' mean yarns? Hell, we used to smear vasoline on those mantles just to make them sporting!
|
|
scuffy b
climber
Three feet higher
|
|
|
Jan 17, 2011 - 12:57pm PT
|
Gary, it's a good thing you weren't at Big Grunt at a crucial moment
last Shindig. Would have been hard on the wallet. Eeyonkee, Big Head,
Fred and I took strolls up that thing in rapid sequence, grunt-free, nothing but pleasant banter.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Jan 17, 2011 - 01:15pm PT
|
And then the cilley, invert start, attempt!
|
|
Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
|
|
|
Jan 17, 2011 - 03:01pm PT
|
real off-width-ers start low. plenty of grunts that way.
|
|
BeeHay
Trad climber
San Diego CA
|
|
|
Jan 17, 2011 - 03:26pm PT
|
Them pads is some serious cheatin' on Maria's, I always used the springy little root. 'Course the root is gone now and I can't do it no mo.
BH
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Jan 17, 2011 - 03:36pm PT
|
Bruce - definitely 5.11 with sit start.
|
|
Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
|
|
|
Jan 17, 2011 - 08:08pm PT
|
Thanks eeyonkee!--those were the days, huh?
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jan 18, 2011 - 01:42am PT
|
I wasn't there to hear the "silence" on Grunt so you're lyin' as far as I'm concerned! And as far as a sit start...been there, did that pretty recently and with my skinny AP diameter, I fit almost immediately into that width so its still 5.9 either way. Those with larger AP diameters ie; Grug, have to stay out at the lip much further and it looks horrendous for them! I watched a kid who fit that bill and watched him continue probably fifteen feet on the outside and almost hyperventilated himself to failure! When he finally got inside he stopped and said, "I think I'm going to puke!" He was dead serious.
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jan 18, 2011 - 01:54am PT
|
Next time, hopefully this March 19/20, I'll be walkin' the mountain with you all! I'll take that role this time. Is that date still sticking?
|
|
Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
|
|
|
Jan 18, 2011 - 12:29pm PT
|
sit start lieback is the hardest way for sure (heelhook eliminate)
|
|
Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
|
|
|
Jan 18, 2011 - 12:33pm PT
|
So what does a sit on hands start check in at?
|
|
Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
|
|
|
Jan 18, 2011 - 12:36pm PT
|
almost as hard as the stand-on-hands start, Ape Index notwithstanding.
|
|
Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
|
|
|
Jan 18, 2011 - 12:40pm PT
|
Ever soap your soles?
|
|
Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
|
|
|
Jan 18, 2011 - 12:47pm PT
|
prefer the powder soap for the cleanest possible ascent when water is scarce. Hey Phantom X--- who is "Big Head?" Sounds like somebody we know or should know. That would be a problem on Big Grunt.
|
|
Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
|
|
|
Jan 18, 2011 - 12:57pm PT
|
How would I know? Ask Donini.
|
|
scuffy b
climber
Three feet higher
|
|
|
Jan 18, 2011 - 01:06pm PT
|
sorry, I was trying to act like I knew something. I get a lot wrong that
way. Big Head I thought was Brad Huys, Bee Hay.
Powder soap sounds good. maybe you could mix it with baby powder in your
chalk bag.
|
|
Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
|
|
|
Jan 18, 2011 - 01:23pm PT
|
Bighead=Bigfoot?
|
|
Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
|
|
|
Jan 18, 2011 - 01:32pm PT
|
What size shoes does Mr. Cool Head wear? I think we're getting closer to the Spaceark mystery.
|
|
Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
|
|
|
Jan 18, 2011 - 01:44pm PT
|
excellent question PhantomX. We will procure GE Buffer cap to Scuffy B. .
Cool Head, Big Head, Nini head, & Sasquatch will wear BK Crowns when conditions are full. (size 14, in boys)
|
|
Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
|
|
|
Jan 18, 2011 - 03:00pm PT
|
Bitchen answer to an excellent question.
|
|
scuffy b
climber
Three feet higher
|
|
|
Jan 18, 2011 - 03:11pm PT
|
Mr. Cool Head (sir)'s shoes were always too far gone toward destruction
to read the size. They were smaller than Big Al's I think.
|
|
BeeHay
Trad climber
San Diego CA
|
|
|
Jan 18, 2011 - 03:45pm PT
|
Bruno, you don't wanna know BigHead, he's a dick. Can't even climb...
|
|
scuffy b
climber
Three feet higher
|
|
|
Jan 18, 2011 - 04:29pm PT
|
He used the Handhold on Big Grunt!!
|
|
Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
|
|
|
Jan 18, 2011 - 05:20pm PT
|
Bee Hay & Scuffy: Talk about it and get back to Phantom with the facts. Also- I didn't mean to say Nini Head. Let's keep Nini head out of it, okay? Whew.
There used to be a fire department station down below, btw.
|
|
Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
|
|
|
Jan 18, 2011 - 07:53pm PT
|
Good snitch job scuffy b.!
|
|
scuffy b
climber
Three feet higher
|
|
|
Jan 18, 2011 - 07:56pm PT
|
I feel like a fourth-grader.
|
|
Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
|
|
|
Jan 18, 2011 - 08:04pm PT
|
I bumped off alot of classmates back in the fourth.
|
|
Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
|
|
|
Jan 18, 2011 - 11:19pm PT
|
Why don't you guys take your sh*!t to Facebook or some other social website that has nothing to do with climbing. Reading these posts is making me ill. Anybody got on Laker Girls? The last move is hideous.
|
|
Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
|
|
|
Jan 18, 2011 - 11:50pm PT
|
|
|
Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
|
|
|
Jan 18, 2011 - 11:57pm PT
|
|
|
Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
|
|
|
Jan 19, 2011 - 12:12am PT
|
|
|
Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
|
|
|
Jan 19, 2011 - 12:45am PT
|
NIce shots Johann!
Big Grunt "sit start" FA, Fall, 1970 . sort of awhile ago -- Older generation small talks a bit before spray, k? Bruce Adams
|
|
BeeHay
Trad climber
San Diego CA
|
|
|
Jan 19, 2011 - 01:12am PT
|
There's a handhold?!
|
|
BeeHay
Trad climber
San Diego CA
|
|
|
Jan 19, 2011 - 01:16am PT
|
This is just silly...
|
|
gonamok
climber
aging malcontent
|
|
|
Jan 19, 2011 - 01:41am PT
|
Johann you ROCK! Fuk this pantywaist social baloney, hell yea Ive been on the hill lately. I cranked a daring TR ascent of Good for the soul and went one better than a sit start, I started from laying flat on my back. It was fully 5.10A and fully HEINOUS. Im writin a new guide just so I can put it in.
Im still good for March 19&20 Gary, I thought more people woulda checked in by now.
|
|
Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
|
|
|
Jan 19, 2011 - 02:00am PT
|
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2011 - 02:28am PT
|
I'm sure some people will check in for those dates. Hopefully it won't be another hot spell like the one we're going through right now.
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jan 19, 2011 - 03:30am PT
|
You ain't gettin' my 20 until I'm there to be the judge...and I'm a stingy judge so ill be listenin' close!
Brad, you're fat dude! I'm inside the crack at that point!
|
|
Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
|
|
|
Jan 19, 2011 - 03:30am PT
|
It's snowing here, Henny, and sometimes snows here in March, so it sounds good. I hope I can come. I wish I could have made the others.
I want to apologize to you, Henny and the Forum if I was out of line, enjoying myself, with my brothers a little. You see, I live up here in Oregon now and have barely touched Woodson since I graduated from Poway High School in 1972. As far as we know, we were the first to really climb there, so we wrongly believe we are special. I don't post too often, but I read threads, especially climbing and climbing history ones. Some of the things we read on the Woodson threads and lots of other STthreads are pretty wierd to us. like "winter ascents of Open Book, and giving the finger really great and ball cuppin and all that. But it wasn't always just like that. But all in all we love it all. I like that shot of Woodward just upthread, right? - there's a real climber, as are you, Henny. Scared me though, seein' that boot so close to his fingers. A Poway Mountaineer would have stepped on those fingers! It's okay- his fingers are made of steel!
Check this: On Easter Sunday last year my son was visiting my brother in Ramona. It was my son's first time to Mt. Woodson. They went to a giant boulder near the top ( don't know which). My brother climbed it and my son was at the base and suddenly the earthquake hit! They said boulders were tottering, including the boulder he was on and that they heard many boulders crashing. Goodnight friends. Sorry -don't really do Facebopk. Photo posted above is Rick Piggot, circa 1970, one the first photos I ever printed. I post it out of respect! Bruce
|
|
Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
|
|
|
Jan 19, 2011 - 08:17am PT
|
|
|
Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
|
|
|
Jan 19, 2011 - 08:31am PT
|
The face to the right, up the center is spooky. I've been up near the top but have not had the balls to go all the way, yet.
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2011 - 11:56am PT
|
My OP still stands. Post whatever you feel like posting into this thread. Most threads have mini-threads within them that are tangents anyway. Have at it.
Brunosafari - Thanks for the cool picture of Piggot. If this year goes off at the mentioned dates it would be a huge bonus if Rick showed. He was, and I'm sure still is - regardless of what he's into now, one bad ass dude. Too bad he never had any intensity to go with it (hahaha). I always enjoyed it when I had chances to climb with him.
The current weather is consistently running mid 70's. It better break cause that's way to hot for this time of year. I know it sounds good opposed to snow, but it shuts down hard face (at least for me). I was up there the other morning and at 9:00 it was already out of control due to hot rock, sun glare, and the likes.
Doug - I was corresponding a bit with Eliot. Sounds like you have some good stuff going. I'd like to see some pictures when the time is right.
Bedford is light.
Edit: Oh yeah. All this talk about what is/isn't silly with respect to the Big Grunt... It's all irrelevant anyway, since it's silly to even think about doing that thing in the first place. Smoke that.
|
|
scuffy b
climber
Three feet higher
|
|
|
Jan 19, 2011 - 12:01pm PT
|
For sure. What with the heinous descent, and all...
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2011 - 12:04pm PT
|
Yeah. What scuffy b said.
|
|
Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Jan 19, 2011 - 12:47pm PT
|
If you guys do another gathering on March 19th/20th I'd most likely show up. That was fun last year meeting a few new people and I finally got on Hard as Nails. Was it Henny that onsight soloed it preceeding the shindig? I was inspired and did the same, so thanks! I wonder what other classics are hiding in the bushes that people can show me this year?
Anyone want to try Boulder 13? :)
Josh
|
|
Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Jan 19, 2011 - 01:09pm PT
|
Johannsolo,
I was poking around the old Woodson thread since it had a lot of cool stuff in it and found this from you:
Someone needs to show the youngsters how to belay. You could shoot an arrow of that rope it's so tight. Any tension on a TR is assistance and invalidates a free ascent. Is this where Pullharder.org gets its name from?
You sure like to slander other local climbers. The kids in the picture you reference in that quote are obviously not from pullharder.org. Not that it matters either way. Is this a jealousy thing, or are you pissed that I called you on your slander regarding Raindance? In any case, I don't know how much other slander you're throwing around, but I would appreciate an end to it. If you have a problem with my friends and I, I'd be curious to hear what it is.
Josh
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2011 - 01:13pm PT
|
I'm telling people, I thought that Piece of Mind was a totally killer deal - as long as one likes small holds. Up on top, just a short distance from the road. Way, way good. Don't know about an on-sight solo though, kind of gives me the gaaacks thinking about that (it's big and has bolts, so lead/TR - at least for most of us.) Even though it's easy to find if I gave directions you'd probably end up in Escondido, so I'll spare you. Find out where it is and check it out, it's well worth it.
|
|
mooser
Trad climber
seattle
|
|
|
Jan 19, 2011 - 01:38pm PT
|
Josh: it's been years since I was on it, but is Boulder 13 accessible now?
|
|
Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Jan 19, 2011 - 02:34pm PT
|
It may be owned by the people with the house right next to the road, but I'm not sure. I haven't seen any no trespassing signs or confirmation that it is owned by anyone. There is a trail dropping down to it now (from tower 1?), or at least there was a few months ago. I went and checked it out. It looks heinous and makes me drool...
Josh
|
|
REIGN 1
Social climber
Carlsbad, Ca
|
|
|
Jan 19, 2011 - 04:36pm PT
|
Henny wrote...."Bedford is light"
Henny I wish I was light. If I was then I could go back to the days when I owned you at woodson and other crags.....hahahahaha
Oh and KP tooooo
When are you heading back to woodson?
|
|
mooser
Trad climber
seattle
|
|
|
Jan 19, 2011 - 05:02pm PT
|
Thanks, Josh. It is heinous, but o so cool. My hands still bear scars from it from the 70s.
|
|
p-owed
Social climber
Ramona ca
|
|
|
Jan 19, 2011 - 09:40pm PT
|
I chopped my way in to boulder 13 in October. from the bolder just before Sunday afternoon But my buddy's wimped out so we climbed to anther rock instead.
|
|
Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
|
|
|
Jan 19, 2011 - 10:03pm PT
|
I'm sorry too Henny. And thanks for the heads up on the lightweight.
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2011 - 11:20pm PT
|
Yeah, I still owe Donny a stack of barbs, it'll be a while before I'm anywhere near even. And he knows it. Beyond that though I think his memory must be failing.
|
|
Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
|
|
|
Jan 20, 2011 - 12:37am PT
|
San Diego Climbers respect renown photographer Greg Epperson, who of course, is talented and dedicated on stone, with or without a lens.
In the late 80s or early nineties, Greg was here to photograph at Smith Rock. I thought about how appalling it must have seemed to him and asked him over to our home for dinner after shooting him near the base of the Zebra. cheers all!
|
|
gonamok
climber
aging malcontent
|
|
|
Jan 20, 2011 - 03:30am PT
|
Henny, Woodson is an afternoon place. No matter how hot it is, shade and a breeze is always available in the late afternoon. I dont even bother to go up before noon in the summer.
Johann, the pic titled "woodson classic" that problem is called "stickmen". Good job bouldering it, the topout is pretty thin and the landing pretty bad. Did you check out "friendly fire" on the opposite side of the pinnacle?
|
|
Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Jan 20, 2011 - 11:46am PT
|
Gary, what is that a picture of? I know I've climbed it, but don't remember the name. It was a long time ago. That's the beginning, and then the features thin, right?
Josh
|
|
F10
Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
|
|
|
Jan 20, 2011 - 11:57am PT
|
Looks like Go With the Flow
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2011 - 12:25pm PT
|
Agreed, afternoon is usually ok, or I should say evening. But some problems that bake throughout morning/mid day, even after they go into late shade may never really seem to cool sufficiently. Typical, and not just Woodson. Early morning with rock cool from overnight can be an option. I tried that, just wasn't quite early enough.
ok, I'll stop complaining about the heat now.
Edit: I agree, looks like Go With the Flow.
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jan 20, 2011 - 05:00pm PT
|
That's Karl Mueller in the middle of Go With The Flow. Yes, it gets thinner at the top. Sounds to me Josh that it's been too long since you've been on this...go back out there and do it again! Everything at Woodson is worth repeating.
|
|
Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Jan 20, 2011 - 06:18pm PT
|
Yeah, Go with the Flow sounds familiar. My trips to Woodson are very binary. I'm either with beginners, and I can't do the hard stuff without being selfish, so I don't. Or I'm with my more experienced friends and we b-line it for the offwidths. I haven't spent much time on many of the harder face style problems out there, but would like to.
Josh
|
|
REIGN 1
Social climber
Carlsbad, Ca
|
|
|
Jan 20, 2011 - 07:50pm PT
|
Go With The Flow is really good. And right below is Bad Boys From Detroit and Laker Girls, two pretty hard routes.
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
|
Jan 20, 2011 - 10:30pm PT
|
Eppi contemplating one of his gems "Syncopation"
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2011 - 12:56am PT
|
Where is Syncopation Rick/Ron/Anyone?
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2011 - 01:23am PT
|
Name this tune...
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2011 - 01:37am PT
|
How about this one (henny,johnny, Chaz shhh)?
|
|
REIGN 1
Social climber
Carlsbad, Ca
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2011 - 02:03am PT
|
First picture undertow? 2nd picture 10a on the outside.
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2011 - 02:24am PT
|
No and yes...try again
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2011 - 02:26am PT
|
columbo. too easy
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2011 - 02:30am PT
|
DT...WINNER!
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2011 - 02:41am PT
|
Hey Henny,
I do have some projects going on the hill...always lots of projects!
With that said, the only recent photos I have to share are of the Ogre.
Here's my buddy, Greg's, onsight attempt.
As for thinner stuff. I did manage to finally get on Airstream. No photos of course...it was at dusk and I was tr soloing...with little luck. I'd like to get back on it though.
Also I tried the short boulder problem (with the tips jam) that faces the road. It's on the same side of the road and right before airstream (as you walk up). Anyone know if it's been done? I'm pretty psyched on that.
Otherwise, not too much recent news. Eliot and I went to Jtree last weekend and are going again this weekend so that cuts into woodson time. We did walk by "Thin Red Line"...would love to hear the story about that ..if there is one.
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2011 - 02:44am PT
|
Two more...
|
|
REIGN 1
Social climber
Carlsbad, Ca
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2011 - 04:39am PT
|
Monkey crack and right practice boulder?
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2011 - 04:45am PT
|
Doug - Airstream is a sweet one. The left arete is also pretty darn good. Slightly spooky as a highball, but good. Done it?
I know the feeling about time. I'm pysched for some Suicide days (going tomorrow) so that combined with how hard it is for me to get to Woodson limits my time there. Which is unfortunate because I have something going there too, and to make it worse it seems pretty temp dependent. Too much to do, too little time, and when there is time conditions factor in. I hate work.
Nice pictures by the way.
Thin Red line. OK. It's a good one (I think Bedford will vouch for that as well...). Might be more of a story than you bargained for though. (off topic to woodson, but like my OP said - post what you want).
The day before the FA JW and I were in the Comic Book area. JW was doing a steep crack/face FA, and came off at the top. A poor piece after a runout pulled and from about 60 feet he came within 3' of grounding. The fall was so hard it picked me up off the ground. There we were swinging together like clackers 3 or 4 feet up. I think Eppi even has, or had, pictures of the clacker action. (Of course JW de-pumped and went again, finishing it.) What was scary was that he had almost, almost decided against drilling the bolt that caught him as well as maybe drilling it lower. So the next day, he declared himself exempt from leading and decided I should lead the Thin Red line.
Most of it was pretty uneventful. Until I got to the bulge right below the top, where I was starting to feel runout and the rock got grainy. I was thinking there was a good chance of grounding so I started dicking around, gripped by the grainy footholds and the balancy stand up on them. After drilling the second bolt I had assumed I was done, so I lowered off, ate lunch, then pulled the rope so I could red point it (I had fallen before drilling the second and hadn't gone down.) Meaning I didn't take the drill/hammer/bolt when I went. Anyway, now sort of gripped about the next moves I finally decided to drill, so I asked JW to send the drill stuff up.
Except - he flat out refused to do so. More than once. Something about he had gone for it the day before and hadn't grounded. And, "you've done a good job of running it to there, so why ruin it with a bolt before piss easy moves." And finally, "it's flat, you come off and I'll run, you won't ground." He and Eppi eyeballed the distances involved, cleared a path, and then JW conned Eppi into agreement with him that I most likely wouldn't ground. But since it was true, the moves didn't look that hard... and if he ran... and I didn't really want to drill... I went. Pretty easy really. Trivial on a TR but committing on lead.
JW decided it looked so good he'd do a second ascent right then. What made it really good was when he got to the bulge at the top. Faced with the stand up on grainy rock, things somehow changed. But by then it was far too late. No bolt. For about 10 minutes he stood there and I had to listen to him berate himself for not sending the drill up because now he had to do the moves without a bolt. And it had looked so easy from the ground. I told him I would run, he most likely wouldn't ground.
Kind of a funny note: I led it again for Eppi to take pics. Having been there when we did the FA he asked about the moves at the top. My reply was, "yeah, they were easy, when I get there - no problem." Of course, not true. I got there and once again got gripped. So much so that I didn't want to finish. I finally told Eppi to belay and had Bell hike around to drop me a rope (oh yeah). Fortunately while he was going around I managed to get my ducks lined up and do the moves, avoiding the rescue. "No problem" - yeah right.
Those top moves are funny, they're not hard but it gets spooky if they happen to get in your head. I think the rock is less grainy there now, the last time I TR'd it they seemed more solid, which is good.
Wow, sorry for the long post. That brought back some great memories.
Isn't climbing flat out unbelievable sometimes? The intensity of moments within it can be addictive. The people, the places, the routes. I guess that's why I still try to do it the best I can. Like all the rest of us.
|
|
REIGN 1
Social climber
Carlsbad, Ca
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2011 - 04:52am PT
|
Henny, I concur. That is one scary route.
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2011 - 11:59am PT
|
Geeze Don you're batting .500. Correct on the practice boulder...
|
|
F10
Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2011 - 12:22pm PT
|
Nice tread drift henny, great story, thanks for sharing
Always wondered about that first lead
|
|
eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2011 - 02:10pm PT
|
Great story Henny, thanks. That line is so cool.
|
|
Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2011 - 02:30pm PT
|
Henny, great story! I should go look for that climb out of curiosity. I haven't even heard of it. The Thin Red Line...
That picture of The Ogre brings back memories. I had a friend get her knee stuck in The Ogre once. That was exciting. I was hoping it wouldn't turn into a tale like Gary's! Luckily, it didn't. Also, I led it once and then, while lowering, the rope got stuck between the rock and a cam lobe. I ended up stranded on top of the rock for a short while until some shenanigans got me down safely. Good times!
Josh
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2011 - 03:34pm PT
|
Come on guys, what is this (hint: it's much longer than Monkey Crack)?
|
|
Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2011 - 05:27pm PT
|
Out of Sight, right? If so, it was a great addition to my solo circuit when I found it. I love that one!
Josh
|
|
gonamok
climber
aging malcontent
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2011 - 06:50pm PT
|
Gary, syncopation is due south from the control tower, sort of on the eastern fringe of the playground area
|
|
gonamok
climber
aging malcontent
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2011 - 06:52pm PT
|
Youve seen the T shirt, heres the Photo. From left to right, Peter Campos, Ron Amick and Rick Allenby enjoying a day at Mt Woodson.
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2011 - 07:43pm PT
|
Anybody heard from BVB lately?
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2011 - 08:49pm PT
|
Good job Josh...yep, what an aesthetic setting that one is in huh? Literally at the top of the north face/east ridge. That start sets the stage for a killer 25 feet of hand jams to the top. What a find that must have been!
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jan 21, 2011 - 09:14pm PT
|
Although soloing scares me, I "used to" have a crack solo circuit b.I.t.d.(ok, it wasn't mine) as well. Tried to stay up with Tom Lindner one day and did pretty good, but he left me in the dust up after digitsdelight. If my memory serves me right here's the list in sequence:
1. Thin seam on practice boulder, 5.10d
2. I Hear My Train a Comin, 5.11c (I ran into Tom here as he left his day pack down at the road).
3. Scream Seam, 5.11
4. Razor's Edge, 5.10d
5. Black Finger, 5.10a/b
6. Elephant's Trunk, 5.9
7. Left Long's Crack, 5.10d
8. Robbin's Crack, 5.10
9. Driving South, 5.11d
10. California Night, 5.11b
11. Jaws, 5.10d/11a
12. Baby Robbins, 5.9
13. Monkey Crack, 5.10c
14. Digits Delight, 5.10d
Tom went on to do Crucible and who knows what else! I had never did that much in a day up there at that time nor ever since, and I know why, ugh!
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jan 22, 2011 - 05:09am PT
|
I've watched Piggot arrive at problems we were TRing, ie; Go With The Flow and Werners Wish and politely ask us to hold the rope to the side as he soloed the problems then disappear behind the boulder somewhere. I would be saying in my head, "Please don't, please don't!" I hated it when he did that!
Although, Rick did give me beta on IHMT, Driving South, Left Longs and Monkey Crack b.i.t.d. Otherwise, I thought he was intimidating to climb with for he was way out of my league!
|
|
Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
|
|
|
Jan 22, 2011 - 05:26pm PT
|
There are some very good Boulder problems at the Masters of the Universe area. Here is a great blank slab, with a problem on the left and right side of the face. Here is Woodward topping out the right side.
|
|
Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
|
|
|
Jan 22, 2011 - 05:34pm PT
|
Not sure about the name of this dyno problem in the Playground area. Real good.
|
|
Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
|
|
|
Jan 22, 2011 - 05:42pm PT
|
Cool shots!! Miss that place...
|
|
socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
|
|
|
Jan 22, 2011 - 05:51pm PT
|
Josh -
Thin Red Line is down and left from The Eye, at ground level.
As the name suggests, there is a faint(and thin)reddish-orange dike running up an otherwise standard Josh grain face.
Guaranteed excitement with little or no approach...worth taking the time to check out.
|
|
p-owed
Social climber
Ramona ca
|
|
|
Jan 22, 2011 - 08:37pm PT
|
What was happening on Woodson to day? Going past on the way to work and the road was packed both sides of the road.
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jan 22, 2011 - 09:27pm PT
|
On the way to work this morning? I was there at 1400 till only 1600 and it was a ghost town. Temps were nice and cool but I felt like crud. Saw Andrew and Kathy at Lizard Crack where Andrew was doing laps on it as usual. Btw, Andrew has been inquiring as to what has happened to the wood "ladder" that has been the access to Seminar Wall's anchors for many years? He told me the original recently disappeared so he constructed another, and now that is gone as well! Can anyone share any details as to why/how this is happening?
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jan 22, 2011 - 09:34pm PT
|
Here's your culprit p-owed...
"Saturday early 7am hike, Mt Woodson from Lake Poway.... meet M. Fry of the Fry Koegel Trail
The highlight of the hike was Mike Fry deftly interweaving history, info and anecdote about trail maintenance and plantlife at Mt Woodson."
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2011 - 09:35pm PT
|
Thin Red Line is the name given to the climb by Ron Fawcett. It had his single TR ascent before we did it as a lead. The feature mentioned is actually a faint thin red dike that splits the wall, cool feature. Typical JT grain is right, it would be more classic if it were a little more solid.
Hopefully we're going to see some Woodson trip reports and pictures from this weekend...
|
|
p-owed
Social climber
Ramona ca
|
|
|
Jan 22, 2011 - 11:02pm PT
|
Oh OK make sense. I have seen pieces of 2x4 around the mountain in the past few months. could be the missing latter?
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jan 22, 2011 - 11:36pm PT
|
How about this...anyone?
]
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2011 - 12:43am PT
|
ID, I'll do that. What's it rated? looks like a cakewalk....
|
|
Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2011 - 01:33am PT
|
Was American Gypsy and now Fallen Gypsy. Looks kinda crappy but have not tried it. I'll be up on the mountain in the morning. Bring it on.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2011 - 01:39am PT
|
Do It!
(take pics too)
|
|
gonamok
climber
aging malcontent
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2011 - 02:32am PT
|
The dyno problem looks like "rough boys". We thought it was 5.12, dont know what V rating that is.
JW appears to be on "KP's demise", masters of the universe.
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2011 - 03:30am PT
|
Fallen Gypsy is 5.12+
Here's a comment and beta from Andrew when I text him about it tonight:
"Have you seen it done? It requires a gypsy move."
|
|
Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2011 - 09:26am PT
|
Thanks for the names Ron, I thought that was maybe KP's Demise. The dyno felt around V4/5. Kinda funny that I was just climbing with KP and Hensel up on the South Face of Suicide on Friday. I'm off for the over two hour drive down to Woody. See ya'll down there.
|
|
mooser
Trad climber
seattle
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2011 - 10:34am PT
|
A few random Woodson pics:
For anyone out there who hasn't yet been to Woodson, I can guarantee that you won't be disappointed (even if you may get spanked!).
|
|
Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2011 - 01:32pm PT
|
Great thread. Nice to see some of the newer (for me) problems. They look amazing.
Henny- Loved the story about "Thin Red Line". I'll bet those last moves are not by any reasonable standard "pretty easy, really." Hensel and JW both are gripped by them? Please.
Gonamock mentioned "Control Tower", a boulder I almost forgot about since its been 30 years + since my last visit to Woodson. I remember being up there by myself and thinking about coming back and top roping it. I ended up going up for a look and the moves never got too hard. Anybody done it? I remember it as being about 5.10.
|
|
mooser
Trad climber
seattle
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2011 - 07:04pm PT
|
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2011 - 09:35pm PT
|
Ricky, I would say your overdue for a return visit to Woodson.
Josh, I just read your Tasmania Totem Pole TR. Good stuff. That would have to be a memorable route. Sea cliff climbing is pretty cool, it's so diffent than our standard fare in the states.
OK, I need (really need) to know the story behind the name "KP's Demise". Gonamok? Reign1? Anybody? Any useful information would be greatly appreciated (hehe).
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2011 - 10:25pm PT
|
gonamok working on "Death Vomit"
|
|
gonamok
climber
aging malcontent
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2011 - 01:15am PT
|
Allenby (deepnet)cranking the B2 roadside mantle
Death Vomit is the Allenby statement "Crank THIS". Yeah I "worked on" death vomit with utter futility. That thing is one of the most hideous cranks Ive ever felt. I wonder if its had a repeat? B2+ for sure.
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2011 - 03:40am PT
|
No way, is that that roadside boulder just down the road from Seminar Wall that has that gritty, rounded protrusion over the road?!!
|
|
Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2011 - 05:09pm PT
|
For those of you who are still heading out to Woodson, what areas have been "tagged" with spraypaint? I know about the Baby Robbins/Jaws area already. Anything else? I'm hoping to get out there in two weekends with some friends and some environmentally friendly paint remover and I am wondering if there's another area I should hit if we have time.
Thanks,
Josh
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2011 - 08:55pm PT
|
No other that I know of.
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jan 25, 2011 - 12:24am PT
|
Johnny on Pit Bull (at the summit)...
Gary on Eric's Face (1986 Contest)...
|
|
gonamok
climber
aging malcontent
|
|
|
Jan 25, 2011 - 02:46am PT
|
Yeah Gary its slightly uphill from the path to Korean Cowboy, under that "jump to the knob" problem at the crook in the road.
|
|
gonamok
climber
aging malcontent
|
|
|
Jan 25, 2011 - 02:57am PT
|
Henny, you have to ask Epps about KPs demise, its his problem. Some say greg sent it and KP had to take a rain check that day, but you wont hear me repeat that, nope that would be slander.
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jan 25, 2011 - 07:17pm PT
|
Ron, for nearly thirty years the rumor keeps getting passed down about that mantle actually having been done! Did Rick actually send it and who else has done it?
Come on, tell more about that "jump to the knob" problem too! I was just there Sunday putting chalk back on the roadside mantle (like it should have) on the rock that you "jump" from to reach the big brown protrusion. I always heard it to be a Mike Paul creation...what's the story and does it diagonal up and left from there?
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2011 - 08:22pm PT
|
Just go to the top of Uncertainty and jump. Probably end up with the same result. Last time I checked I seem to recall the landing not looking that great. Boulders and eroded ground? A true commit would seem to be in order if going. I heard the same thing, is that yours Mr. Paul, sir?
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
|
Jan 25, 2011 - 09:17pm PT
|
Gary ,which mantle are you talking about?
If you mean the small boulder down the road from "seminar wall"
The one that I'm pictured in. The so called "grainy protrution" as
you discribed it. The answer is yes I used to do it about every other
time I walked down the hill. Eppi and Adrian Amondovar did it regularly
also.
If you are talking about "Death Vomit"...I worked on that one everytime we were in the "Vomitorium" I finally cranked it after many attemps and numerous visits. Not sure how to rate it? It was pretty damn hard though.
The "leap to the Knob" If I remember correctly was Ron, Eppi and myself screwin' around but Ron would prolly remember for sure?
Here's another road side "regular"(of course everything was BITD)
Hey Mike ,we were probably trying your discovery. I'm fuzzy on the history of "the jump"
Rick
BTW the grainy protrusion below Seminar Wall I believe is an old Shawn Curtis problem.
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jan 26, 2011 - 12:51am PT
|
Now that mantle is just before digits delight and the cave. We use to do that one but it is tame compared to the others mentioned. You don't see chalk on that one anymore either. I'll have to do something about that also.
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jan 26, 2011 - 12:57am PT
|
Henny,
You sound bored...I watched Johnny figure out the crux moves to Laker Girls is it, up the left side of the big face below go with the flow? He was by himself on his traxion device. That thing goes after all!
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2011 - 12:49pm PT
|
Yup, I'm bored. Working while problems and routes that I'm amped to do sit around without me on them.
Of course Laker Girls goes. The questions are where/how on that blankish smearing slab.
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
|
Jan 26, 2011 - 05:53pm PT
|
No woodson updates for this past weekend...went to joshua tree again. We got on asteroid crack which is very woodsonesque. As we walked out to the boulder we passed Thin Red Line again. Looked like there were some people eyeing it, but never saw anybody on it. Didn't get close enough to the base to do the math, but from your story I'll say very nice lead. Way to do that thing (twice!)
Also Henny, I have not been on the arete to the left of Airstream. Next time I'm in the vicinity I'll check it out.
Josh, I'd be happy to help with removing the spraypaint so please let me know when you want to assemble a crew.
|
|
gonamok
climber
aging malcontent
|
|
|
Jan 26, 2011 - 10:31pm PT
|
The jump problem - me and greg always looked at that knob and wondered about jumping to it, but no way we were gonna try it solo. Then somehow, somewhere along the line I got the idea that greg said he finally climbed it, and I mentioned this to MP and Rick one day as we were walking past the thing.
Next thing you know, we have a rope on it (none too easy to rig either, like a 50 foot runner to a clump of bushes behind it) and it turned out pretty reasonable - midrange 5.10 I think, great fun.
Later I tell greg we repeated his route and he says "i never climbed that thing". We didnt name it, thinking greg had done it, so it never got a name. Im pretty sure it has a bolt now
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jan 27, 2011 - 04:04am PT
|
I think the name, "JUMP!" By Van Halen would be appropriate.
Just finished up a short video collage of a trio of roadside problems I did today in another most gorgeous day up at Woodson. The wind picked up over the exposed switchbacks but it was beautiful. I'll have it up soon, I'm sure you'll enjoy it.
|
|
Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2011 - 03:36am PT
|
Really nice day up on Woodson today. Went to Death Vomit and the way we did it, was only V3/4. Looks like the same start as the photo in the earlier post.
Finally topped out Greg's face.
Tried Fallen Gypsy and got shut down, same with Laker Girls.
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2011 - 10:56am PT
|
Nice job Johannsolo! You possess some great technique to send D.V. at
V3-V4 (5.11d?). I pressed out on the two holds your holding onto in the photo. Were you able to somehow use a higher hold?
If you pressed out on those two holds-I bow to your brutality!
If you were able to use a higher hold-I bow to your technique!
Regardless-way to send my little pebble! You guys are crushing the place!
Please keep posting.
Rick
|
|
Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2011 - 11:26am PT
|
I started with my right hand on the pretty good knob and left on a bad sloper. Left foot on the only decent foot hold. Pop out left to the bad edge. Same holds as in that last photo of my friend Johnny G. Crank up and throw the right hand to another good knob. Right foot up to the starting hand knob. I'll have to try the pure mantle but looks quite a bit harder.
|
|
Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2011 - 12:00pm PT
|
Here is a very good face a little left of Lemon Chiffon, the RURP face? The left crack is hard to stay on as the climbling leads you to face holds out left. The center seam has a stopper move at the bottom off the drilled hole (half full of silicon) but very good and hard higher. The right face is very good with a mantle to hard face. Dan H. said he's done all three. Anybody have info on these?
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2011 - 12:55pm PT
|
"I started with my right hand on the pretty good knob and my left hand on a bad sloper"
Those are the two holds from which I pressed.
Obviously, the "true" route would follow the path of least resistance.
That would make my "pure mantle" a variation.
Nice job figuring out the proper moves!
Rick
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2011 - 01:06pm PT
|
Whoa! Illusion, what's the b&w rig? How come I haven't climbed it? Or maybe I have?
|
|
F10
Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2011 - 01:23pm PT
|
The b&w is Crucible
|
|
Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2011 - 11:11pm PT
|
Just looked at this thread again, but don't remember the prob. you guys are referring to...Getting addled I guess in my old age...:)
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jan 30, 2011 - 01:01am PT
|
I should have looked closer at Rick's photo before doing that last mantle for I "might" have been a bit faster on it's success! Then again, he probably didn't use any face holds, like I found, either.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Jan 30, 2011 - 03:38am PT
|
crucible, d'oh, did it first trip!
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jan 30, 2011 - 04:51am PT
|
Jay, did you ever get down to see Undertow? I'm trying to get Pamela Shanti out here to lead that thing, that'd be awesome to see!
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
|
Jan 30, 2011 - 09:59am PT
|
Nice Gary.
The 5.10 rating on that mantle is a total sandbag for sure!
Yeah...I just "chicken winged" the primary holds.
Right hand pull/left hand press. No feet.
|
|
p-owed
Social climber
Ramona ca
|
|
|
Jan 30, 2011 - 11:01am PT
|
great day on the mt yesterday got their around 11 stayed till sunset. Next time Im bringing my pad and going to try death vomit.
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jan 30, 2011 - 08:18pm PT
|
Rick, doing it the way I ended up doing it, finding that face hold out left, brings it down to 5.10 easily, without it, well the video tells all. Then again, I feel like a sack of potato's these days and I'm dealing with a chronic inflammation in the right forearm to the elbow right now. Even so, I think it's the "sack of potato's" that's the culprit. I know, I know, excuses excuses. It sure was beautiful that day though, as you could probably tell.
|
|
zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
|
|
|
Jan 30, 2011 - 08:31pm PT
|
|
|
gonamok
climber
sez me
|
|
|
Jan 30, 2011 - 10:05pm PT
|
Great job on Death Vomit Johnny. I guess when youre a mantle geek (like me and Rick were) you try to mantle everything. Kudos.
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jan 30, 2011 - 10:21pm PT
|
I'd like to see more pics/videos of the classics, as well as of those on the harder end of the scale, for a good picture doesn't have to be of something difficult. Most of those visiting Woodson go home with memories of "logging mileage" in one of the top bouldering areas in the nation as opposed to "crushing" up on the hill.
|
|
p-owed
Social climber
Ramona ca
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2011 - 12:14am PT
|
I was getting WiFi by the big grunt sat.
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2011 - 12:34am PT
|
Watusi, here's a couple of pics of the problem mentioned a few posts earlier. The leap knob is the obvious brown one straight left of Johnny's hand. In the picture it looks like one could just lean out there somehow, but the geometry of the boulders isn't quite what it appears.
The landing, if bouldering it, is less than stellar (IMO).
Started out as a good one today, then dumped early/mid afternoon and never stopped. Oh well. Did go by and eyeball the Fallen Gypsy for the first time but the rain and running water pretty much precluded even the wildest pipe dream of trying it. Looks quite good to me. Out of curiosity, whereabouts did the hold break off?
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2011 - 01:23am PT
|
I know this is off topic, but it's something I ran across while doing my previous post and I though people might find it somewhat interesting. This is the result of a lightning strike that happened the day before the picture was taken. Powerful. Note the spear stuck in the ground just left of the tree. The spinters, some quite large, were strewn for a couple hundred yards in all directions and several were embedded point in.
When returning back past the tree we saw another one, almost identical in appearence only a short distance away. Maybe a single bolt forked and did them both at the same time?
OK, enough drift, back to Woodson.
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2011 - 08:15am PT
|
Hey Mike, This is from a page of your Woodson Guide. Showing the location and original rating of the "Leap Problem"
Gary, note "Shawn's Mantle" below it.
|
|
gonamok
climber
sez me
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2011 - 08:47am PT
|
Doing the mantle thang BITD
|
|
gonamok
climber
sez me
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2011 - 08:52am PT
|
This thing will go, but I never got it. Location goes to the highest bidder (heh). Email me if youre interested, its easy to get to.
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2011 - 12:51pm PT
|
Did you guys start pulling these pictures out of your closets or what?! These are great, gotta lov'em! "Soloflex"...never knew it had a name. That's the prob you are doing, no Ron? I videoed that one as well but it was in the shade and left it out. I also tried the mantle at the end of the Hamburger Crack boulder but got shut down. I USE TO DO THAT THING, DANG IT! Sack o' potatoes I'm tellin' ya!
|
|
gonamok
climber
sez me
|
|
soloflex, yah
|
|
gonamok
climber
sez me
|
|
"49th Street" 5.11c
on the south slope
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
I've never made it to Undertow, Illusion. Wanted to, though. Looks like the kind of thing Pamela would eat up!
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
49th Street? I also want to hear about the "van Gough" get up the climber is wearing...?
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
Hey BVB, Still waiting for those stories brother!
|
|
Pointbrk
Boulder climber
Encinitas, Scal
|
|
Hello all. I see this thread is still moving. And even an image of me on Death Vomit.
|
|
Pointbrk
Boulder climber
Encinitas, Scal
|
|
Does anyone know who is responsible for shoring up the landing and cleaning up the foilage for Death Vomit? My regards, it's toatally cush now and should start receiving more traffic...
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
Johannsolo, it didn't hit me when we ran into each other on the hill, but you should definitely seek out this thin face problem below Go With the Flow. The boulder is this 30ft tall 45degree slab (kinda pinkish in color) above CA Night and just south of the imax area. (To get to it I walked around the east side of Bad Boys and Laker Girls.) Anyways, there's a one bolt protected 5.9 lead (Coco's Cruise) to get to the top which is the best easy slab I've done on Woodson. The left arete of the boulder is super thin and immaculate rock. There's currently foliage guarding the start, but with some of your tree trimming skills that could be easily solved. For what it's worth, an old guide has it at 11c. Definitely a must do...that goes for you too Henny and anybody else wanting that style.
|
|
gonamok
climber
sez me
|
|
This was done recently pointbrk? We cleared the tunnel and trundled the choss away BITD, around '86 maybe. Before that, a skinny guy could barely squeeze thru. We also pushed a half ton slab of rock thru the tunnel and down the hill to make DV possible.
I never thought it had a bad landing, but better is better! Glad to hear that people are taking the time and effort to work on the infrastructure.
|
|
gonamok
climber
sez me
|
|
Hey pointbrk, did I meet you at J Tree a few months ago? I was taking a moonlight hike out to echo rock and came across a dude who was sitting on the trail, had just fkd up his toe pretty bad. Talked about maybe climbing some EZ's the next day, was that you?
Gary, thats me n allenby picking off yet another 1 star plum. The impossibly burly man on the rock would be me, fashionable as always. Fashionistas in the nut-hugging lycra pantaloons that were all the rage (in certain circles) at the time did not venture so far from the road.
Cant blame em either. Those tights kept your business all bunched up, front and center. One wayward branch could take you down faster than Mike Tyson on PCP.
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2011 - 03:50am PT
|
Thanks for the suggestion Doug. Immaculate rock could be the clincher, sounds like something to check out.
Immaculate/impeccable rock is good. Any thoughts on where more problems/boulders like that are? The fine grained, semi polished, bullet hard stuff. Crack/face/whatever. Rock quality like Hard as Nails or Slap You Silly for example.
That is some stylin'. I was once told when asking about a similar getup, "Hey..., this ain't no fashion show, babe." (Those who know "who" can probably hear it being said.) Seemed like a good reply.
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
I associate the lycra fad to the disco craze...kinda cool at the time but now embarassing when you look back at it, and it didn't last long (thank goodness). I recall being on Seminar Wall when one of you guys (can't remember which one of you) walked up and commented, "Well, will you look at there, he's wearing nice white bikinis under there." I think that was the last time I wore 'em.
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
That Mighty Edge was a pretty impeccable highball last year...
|
|
REIGN 1
Social climber
Carlsbad, Ca
|
|
Haha for me the lycra fad lasted for a few trips to suicide rock. The end for me was taking a 30ft sliding fall on winter solstice. While I was resting after falling from the last bolt stance(before I could make the clip) my now exposed ass turned from white to red and started bleeding. My buddy Dan Haughelstine lowered me while laughing his butt off. That convinced me to quit wearing the thin stuff. From then on I wore Loose fitting Levis if it was to cold for shorts.
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
Off topic but, about a year after the 1986 Woodson contest, the stock market crashed, I lost around 14K and the spouse wanted to go home to Thailand before we lost everything, so we made preparations. After looking at a world map, realizing how close I was going to be to Nepal and that I probably wouldn't have too many chances to experience it again, I did my best to sell the idea of a solo trip to my wife...she obliged.
After spending two weeks of playing tourist in Bangkok, and an overnight train trip north to Chiang Mai, I caught a four hour flight into the Kathmamdu valley with a Hollywood film crew aboard (there to film at Everest base camp). A few glitches after landing, a taxi ride, and an overnight stay in a hotel room, I walked into the climbers hub of Thamel the next day. A young, local kid soon snatched me out of the crowd and became my guide for the next two weeks (with $125 to my name. I chose the poor person's" trek in Nepal); his name was "Sanu" (SAH' nu). Here are a handful of pictures from that trip:
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
Okay, sorry about that, back to Woodson...
|
|
gonamok
climber
sez me
|
|
way cool gary
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
I betcha this is basking in the sun in this beautiful weather we're having right now!...
|
|
REIGN 1
Social climber
Carlsbad, Ca
|
|
Has that aid crack to the left gone free yet?
|
|
gonamok
climber
sez me
|
|
Christ on Crutches 5.11D
|
|
Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
|
|
Wow! Two shots up looks like Karl's Error...But I could be wrong, my compatriot Karl Mueller actually e-mailed me today, was glad to hear from one of our core original So-Cal bruthas!!!:)
Edit: But also super shot Ron of that one that I had never seen before, (I think...sometimes...)...Cheers! And my vote for you as... "Mr.Woodson Dude"...
|
|
Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
|
|
I finally climbed Laker Girls on Friday afternoon. The temps were cool and I had the thing pretty sauced after working on it for multiple days over the past two years. My tips were thin and my feet were hurting pretty bad as I kept falling but getting closer. I finally gave it one more go with my friends new shoes (TC pro's) that are a size bigger than my TC's since my feet hurt so bad. I hit every move perfectly. While working it, I was thinking it was mid to hard .12 but on the send, it felt like .12a.
|
|
Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
|
|
Not sure if it helped but, I also had a couple of 24oz. Modelo's, a few hits of the devil weed, and Peter Gabriel's I Have the Touch playing. Bad Ass.
|
|
gonamok
climber
sez me
|
|
Oh yeah Johnny you KNOW those beers contributed to the send. I cant believe how many people are trying to climb without beer these days.
Congrats on getting a major testpiece.
|
|
ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
|
|
"I can't believe how many people try to climb with out beers these days." Huuuhhh???? WTF???? I wouldn't consider climbing WITHOUT beers! God what is this place coming to???? I remember the last Woodson Gathering, Prebble aka Jack Marshall took great pains to haul a LOAD of beers ON ice, up the road and was liberally handing them out to any takers! When I needed to find him I just followed the trail of water, from melting ice to his location. Now that is an effort to be applauded!
Peace
|
|
Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
|
|
I just got back from a trip to Woodson. Not much climbing was done, but essentially all the spray paint around the Jaws/Baby Robbins area is now gone. While this wasn't an official ACSD event, they supplied all of the paint remover and equipment we used, and most of the crew up there were members. If you're a local climber and not a member of ACSD, consider joining. They do amazing work, and were just recognized by the Access Fund as one of the most effective local non-profits working for access in the country.
Josh
Proud to be a Founding Member of ACSD
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
Josh, again, thanks for taking care of that. It looks really clean in there again. I'm sure it'll take a bit for the fumes to dissipate for I was getting pretty high just standing around the area. Btw, I found some shades perched in a tree there in the corridor. Let me know if you, Elliot, et al left them.
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
Yep, that's Karl's Error, Mike. I posted last year that I ran into Karl's brother, Kurt, whom I went to high school with, hiking up and over the hill via the paved road. Didn't inquire the whereabouts of Karl although, last I heard, he was in CO?
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
"I had the thing pretty sauced"
Johnny, shouldn't this read, "I was pretty sauced"?
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
Okay, I have to ask, where is C.O.C. Ron?
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
Ronald, yer a man after my own heart
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
Heres the top-out shot, which shows my ensemble more completely
|
|
p-owed
Social climber
Ramona ca
|
|
who climbed and bolted the rock off bunny king rd in Ramona? My friend owns the ranch next to the rock. He says the bolts are at lest 30 years old. the rock is on county property but to get to it you have to cross private property. It is just north west the Barnett ranch house and barn. My friend calls it turtle rock. Its a sweet overhang. has to be 5.11-12. I'm just looking for beta as im going to project this thing someday soon.
|
|
Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
|
|
Yeah Karl! One of our original SD Gang!!:) Teaches at UofC Boulder! Great shots of him Gary!
Off topic...Ron sent me more ol' time stuff...He's got a slide scanner now! But I thought I'd post it cause it's still So-Cal...Pullin' Skip's Arete at South Ridge back when I still had hair!!:) One of my all-time fave problems!!
|
|
Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
|
|
My Pal Ron! Dig the custom harness:)
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
CA
|
|
Mike, I'm filchin' those two shots for my F.B. album.
Look's like your cruisin' the arete.
|
|
eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
|
|
Finally got out for a half day. Feels like forever since I was on the hill last...
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
Cool Michael, me standing on El Cap towers when me n you did the nose back in 79. Those were the days, eh bro?
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2011 - 01:04pm PT
|
I don't know Ron... Looks like you may have missed your golden opportunity. You coulda made a mint and been set for life if you would have only marketed that "custom" harness. Anyone interested in making a fashion statement would have had to have one.
Mike - that's a good picture of Skip's Arete. Nice.
Re: Laker Girls. Good deal Johnny.
However, maybe it's nit-picking but, uhmmm...
Several days, cool temps, hit the moves perfect, shoes one size too large (not sure I would have thought of trying that), the perfect dosages/mixtures of heavy fuels, and exactly the right background song. Sounds like a trivial 12a there.
Seriously though, good job.
|
|
Pointbrk
Boulder climber
Encinitas, Scal
|
|
Since he was wearing my shoes I suppose I should get partial credit for the ascent? Or does that mean that I should be able to do it in my own shoes?
|
|
Pointbrk
Boulder climber
Encinitas, Scal
|
|
Did John W Call that 12a did he? You guys are killing me. I actually put some effort into Laker Girls, then I couldn't even do Detroit (only 1 try), which "feels" to me like 12a. Laker Girls is harder...
Sorry I don't get here very often. That wasn't me in JT near Echo.
And yes I was being sarcastic, we did some more work on the landing for Death Vomit. Bring one pad and your good.
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2011 - 10:50pm PT
|
Here's the quote:
While working it, I was thinking it was mid to hard .12 but on the send, it felt like .12a.
Now, I've been around long enough that the words "while", "was thinking", "was" (second time), "but", "like", and "12a", all in the same sentence raise a red flag. I see what's coming so I took a pre-emptive jab. (Just trying to give a good natured hard time.)
Bad Boys seems to be consensus 11d/12a. I only tried Laker Girls one time but that was enough to see a difference, a harder difference - IMO.
On the other hand, ratings can be a bunch of smoke and mirrors anyway so it doesn't really matter much.
And yes, your shoes should get you up Lakers Girls. I plan to borrow them if I try it.
|
|
klk
Trad climber
cali
|
|
Now, I've been around long enough that the words "while", "was thinking", "was" (second time), "but", "like", and "12a", all in the same sentence raise a red flag.
Not to mention the key verb phrase, "working it."
|
|
Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
|
|
Damn right I had to work it and I clearly stated so. I can't think of any hard, technical slab climb that is onsightable, especially without chalk on the holds, if you can even call them that. Almost all of them seem impossible first try as there are no visible holds. You slowly find the subtleties, body position and hand and foot placements that make the sequences possible. Then, if everything is perfect, it all comes together and you're at the top screaming at the top of your lungs. The best feeling in the world that no one can take away from you.
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
|
|
Great Job Josh and crew.
Many thanks!
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2011 - 12:20am PT
|
Cool, Josh. Paint removal is a job (having done it). Luckily Woodson hasn't been overwhelmed to where there is/was a ton of it to do.
Johann - Fact about you being up front regarding what was involved. Call it what you want. It's cool that you sent it.
On the bottom line, ratings don't matter all that much anyway. They can be hard to make sense of, and we sometimes seem to take them way to seriously. Perhaps the most useful aspect of them is that they give us something to endlessly debate when bored or unable to get out.
The best feeling in the world that no one can take away from you. Yeah, the rush of a send that was personally difficult to achieve. I want me one of them.
|
|
Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
|
|
|
Feb 10, 2011 - 02:11am PT
|
Bump for Woodson!!!:)
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Feb 10, 2011 - 02:18am PT
|
Gotta throw this in there just because it feels good just looking at it!
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Feb 10, 2011 - 02:39am PT
|
MP wins the Jr divsion and a rope at Woodson BITD. I forget the year...Mike?
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Feb 10, 2011 - 09:38am PT
|
Johannsolo, Have you had a chance to tick off "Syncopation" yet?
It's a very cool problem and well worth doing.
It's an "Eppi" classic located in the outer S.E. reaches of the "playground"
It's rated an ambiguous B1.
Would like to hear what the V rating might be?
|
|
Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
|
|
|
Feb 10, 2011 - 04:29pm PT
|
I think it was '81 Ron cause I hadn't yet turned 21...(Even though I'm drinking a beer!)
|
|
Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
|
|
|
Feb 10, 2011 - 10:36pm PT
|
I just got on Syncopation last Sunday mainly after seeing your earlier post. It was pretty hot that day and it faces due South but was making progress. The pinch up on the arete was just not sticking good enough. I was pulling on and smearing with my left foot just above the overhang. I could then bump my right hand up to the pinch but got stuck there. I see in your second photo the left hand going up on the arete. I'm stuck working in Northwest Ohio for the next few weeks where it was -10 this morning. Definately on my list though as it is a great problem.
|
|
Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
|
|
|
Feb 10, 2011 - 11:33pm PT
|
Your post photo is Stem Jem Mantle? HARD and BA. How about Iron Man mantle up at South ridge?
|
|
Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
|
|
|
Feb 11, 2011 - 11:50am PT
|
Watusi, I was cleaning out some files recently and found a flyer along with the list of problems for the Great Western Bouldering Contest....Oct 18, 1980....location to be announced. Was that the one ?
|
|
blr
climber
socal
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2011 - 12:42am PT
|
Pretty hot up there today. After warming up on the Painted Boulder, our group found some shade on Hard as Nails, which Eliot fired off solo. After a little exploring, we then settled on this thing, which none of us could finish. Anybody know what it is? It's in a corridor on the outside of the switchback by Double Scoop.
After some tips shredding, we moved down to "Cast of a Thousand Stones", which is a really cool line. Eliot and I did a bit of work on the cheatstone start and then both sent first try. Sorry, the site won't let me post the photo.
|
|
Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2011 - 03:45am PT
|
Hi Lynne! Yeah that was the one...It was one day before my B-Day, (10.19.1960) so I would be almost 20 in that shot...It was a big day for me as I got to win Junior Men's, while my all-time hero JB walked with Senior Men's, and my long time friend and Super Climber Mari won it for the ladies...I sometimes get a little misty remembering some of those times for sure...Peace, MP.
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2011 - 08:31am PT
|
At the risk of stating the obvious, it's great to see all these hard pullin' climbers crankin' the stuff outside of the realm of cracks.
Woodson's cracks are awesome but they represent a small percent of the area's potential.
Has anyone done "Korean Cowboy" in recent years?
Man...I can't tell you how much work I put into that one.
Never did get it.
Another "Eppi" Classic
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2011 - 11:16am PT
|
Homie does seem to have quite a few classics to his credit. Some of my best memories of Woodson are the Eppi guided tours. Home Boy rocks.
Hopefully we'll get a post or two regarding the Korean Cowboy. I believe it has been done recently by someone (speak up), and given that there are some pretty active locals (yeah, you guys) I wouldn't doubt one/some of them has done it, or at least been on it (speak up).
Stacks and stacks of slab/face/arete/mantle problems still sitting out there, just waiting.
|
|
eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2011 - 05:00pm PT
|
Korean Cowboy is a problem I've never been on. Although I know of two people who have done it fairly recently. I actually just mentioned yesterday that we should try it sometime. It definitely looks like a great problem.
There are so many climbs on Woodson it feels like the "to do" list never gets any shorter (only longer).
|
|
Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2011 - 09:40pm PT
|
I spent most of last season with all the guides I could find chopping my way around and clearing out access. I wanted to find as many problems as were listed. I did do Korean Cowboy. I tried it one morning and got pretty close, then went back in the afternoon and sent. Very good problem but not that hard for me compared to some of the others that I spent multiple(many) days on. I'd give it V4 or 12a but of course, subjective. Stealth Bomber is another very good problem but did not feel that hard to me. Supposedly one of the shoe doping problems but all I needed was some wackey tobaccy.
|
|
eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2011 - 10:25pm PT
|
Sh#t Johannsolo, we walked by Stealth Bomber yesterday to take a look, that thing is TALL!
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2011 - 12:54am PT
|
I'll echo Eliot's comments and say that Stealth Bomber looks tall. Walked out to it a couple months ago, but haven't gotten on it yet...it's high on the list along with korean cowboy. also would like to get on the "real" eppulator (the dike on the inside of the switchback up the road from jaws)
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2011 - 12:57am PT
|
In the meantime, here are a couple mantles:
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2011 - 01:32am PT
|
Gotta love the night bouldering pictures. That's motivated.
What's the light source, a lantern or something? It appears there's a headlamp involved in the first picture (?). Can't tell if the climber in the second has one on or not, but the spotter doesn't so it seems likely there's either another constant light source or it's a "listen to me" spot (vs. a "watch me" spot). Although the sky in the second pic does look like it may just be very late dusk. Or pre-dawn, but nobody would have their harness on that early.....would they? Regardless, cool.
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2011 - 02:11am PT
|
We were having too much fun to stop climbing so we hit up some problems on the way down (in the dark). The 2nd photo was our first stop (right at dusk) and the first photo was our last stop. The light was from the camera flash.
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2011 - 02:19am PT
|
Here are a few photos from earlier in the day:
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2011 - 02:24am PT
|
Is that Darrell in the picture blr? You both fired Cast of Thousand Stones first try? The diagonal line on the back side of Chimney Rock correct? I don't know if you already knew, but there is a cool arete problem on Chimney Rock up the left side of the chimney as well.
|
|
eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2011 - 01:32pm PT
|
That's blr in the picture. That face is in the same corridor as a couple arete climbs we did sometime last season. We finally made it back over there to try the face which has a couple bolts on top.
To blr's left is an arete climb that would be a good highball/solo. There are some bolts on top but the hangers are missing. The landing zone looked like it had been worked on so maybe people have been on it.
Cast of a Thousand Stones was really cool. The start was dirty and crumbly and the climbing after was short but still fun. We "casted" some more "stones" on the start to help get on the problem.
We were looking at the slab on the inside of the chimney but didn't get on it. It looks good. Is that where Johannsolo's chimney photo was taken? I've been trying to figure that out.
|
|
Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2011 - 02:31pm PT
|
Doug and Eliot,
Let me know next time you get out there. I'd love to crank into the night with you guys some time. As the days get warmer/longer, Wednesday Night Wide might have to be reimplemented in the near future. Any interest? There's a trail to Boulder 13, and I'd love to try that thing in the near future.
Josh
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2011 - 03:52pm PT
|
I've been watching the incoming weather forecast, and decided to juggle my work schedule to hit my last window of opportunity for the next few weeks. Nice morning.
Now c'mon people. Surely someone has done Exit Stage Left. Look at that, how can it be resisted? Cough up the story. My story when I did it: hands frozen into immovable tungsten claws right after the crux. Outta my mind trying to hook the slopers getting to the arete.
Somebody do Deport Jonny recently? Looked like a smattering of chalk on the exit holds. From just looking down it I'm still not positive where "Forever" comes up exactly. Anybody done/tried that?
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2011 - 03:56pm PT
|
Please identify this problem.
Yeah, easy, I know.
|
|
eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2011 - 05:38pm PT
|
For sure Josh, but I think you meant Wed. night "finger cracks" or "thin face," right?
Henny, you got me stumped. Looks like a ravens head though.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2011 - 08:34pm PT
|
Hey Eliot, just a bit confused..."Cast" heads right out that tips seam on that smooth face for about 15-20 feet then up to a broken section above to the top. You say the climbing was "short" after the dirty start? Is this the same line you guys followed? For I, many moons ago, self belayed on that and thought, "you have to be kidding me!" When I tried traversing out on that seam. Maybe I was a bit sketched out on self belay but my first impression was that it was HARD!
|
|
eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2011 - 09:37pm PT
|
Yep, same line Gary. I remember you telling me that story and I had that in mind when trying it.
It is hard, but not as hard as you might remember with your self belay. Try it with a belayer. We also used some tricky beta in the beginning that made it a little easier to come out the roof. The crux was still the traversing seam but it's only a few campus moves to get to the broken section with the bologna slicer edge. Varied climbing...here's a shot...
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2011 - 11:33pm PT
|
Wow, I stumped Eliot. But imagine my embarrassement, I can't remember the name of the problem. Everybody walks by it and looks at that knob on the way down. It's the tan boulder on the left side (going downhill) just past the Lie Detector but before the Seminar Wall cutoff. Starts off a boulder, couple of moves on super good tan rock to get the knob.
Please identify this problem (recent hint given):
|
|
Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2011 - 11:55pm PT
|
Seminar Wall Henny. BTW, the rope looks so tight on Cast that my grandmother could get up it in her wheelchair.
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2011 - 12:23am PT
|
OK, last hold picture:
Please identify this problem (first hold):
|
|
BeeHay
Trad climber
San Diego CA
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2011 - 12:45am PT
|
Stairway to Heaven?
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2011 - 12:52am PT
|
Lower down the road. Left side as walking up.
|
|
eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2011 - 12:59am PT
|
You shouldn't post hints Henny. That makes it too easy.
edit: Don't Rock the Boat
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2011 - 01:30am PT
|
Apparantly so. Correct.
I had some pictures of 3 or 4 thin cracks but they ended up being too tightly focused, needing more than the one jam for context. Lesson learned. My guess is Doug would have known them all anyway...
BTW: Is the preferred way to do Aids Victim starting down to the left? I walked by for a look-see on the way down and saw chalk over there. I'm pretty sure I only did the straight up start. Lucky I could even remember that, the crux is up high or someting, and is sorta almost face? Gotta get around to that again.
|
|
Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2011 - 01:32am PT
|
It's hard to know how "most" people do a problem since Woodson is so spread out. You only know how you and your friends do it. Most people I've seen do Aids Victim start higher for the direct start. I've started down low once, but it was kinda contrived and the addition climbing isn't that hard.
Josh
|
|
eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2011 - 01:42am PT
|
I think the people that are climbing that flake are TRing the little .10 variation that goes up to the horizontal. Or they're just traversing around. On sunday that chalk was caked on there though.
As Josh said most people just start right underneath the seam. How 'bout highballing that thing? The landing isn't THAT bad.
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2011 - 01:57am PT
|
My other question was, since I can't remember exactly, where is the crux and what is it? Face or thin? There's some pretty large looking face holds down low. And of course I didn't think to look at the deck for a possible highball impact. Why the capped "THAT" Eliot? Just the distance?
|
|
eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2011 - 02:16am PT
|
Well comparing it to some of the other highballs on Woodson that landing is actually not too bad. And I think it could be padded well enough. The distance from the top would be a problem though and I do remember the moves up there being very tenuous.
I think the crux though, if I remember correctly, is having a crimp left hand, getting a tips jam with the right, matching it, then going up to a right hand crimp to the right of the seam then stepping out onto the face from underneath the overlap. But there's another move getting your right foot onto the crimp higher up with only tips jams. That's a cool one, I'll have to get on it again. Maybe others'll chime in too about the crux, Doug?
To answer your question though it's more face than thin. The crimps are good but your feet are undercut.
|
|
blr
climber
socal
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2011 - 12:40pm PT
|
BTW, the rope looks so tight on Cast that my grandmother could get up it in her wheelchair.
Isn't that the whole point of being on toprope? To get hauled up climbs too hard so that you can pose for pictures? Trust me, I know what I'm talking about... I saw a video about this. BTW, granny sent next try after switching to the Stealth C4 wheels... and then she kicked my a$$ in bingo. She won't be invited again.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2011 - 04:20pm PT
|
Ok...the "tan boulder" "on the left" "after Lie Detector" and "before Seminar" must be "The Spud" but that knob still is a mystery unless you're talking about the left end of the south face which has a couple of big knobs to downclimb off of. I just did that in the earlier video posted and don't recall a knob of that config/size at the start?
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2011 - 04:29pm PT
|
It is for sure on the "The Spud", thanks for reminding me of the name. It is the knob most directly above when standing on the start boulder. Dead obvious knob. There are a few more knobs to the left of it. The knob is zoomed in, which probably gives it a different look. The knob can't be reached from the start, it would require moves to get to it.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2011 - 04:35pm PT
|
On another note: the "crux on Aids Victim has changed since Chris Lindner visited it last year at the shindig. It had been years (probably half of Chris' life or more since he visited it last. He commented, "I remember the boulder being bigger the last I saw it." I replied, "That's because you were probably half the size your are now Chris!" Anyhow, he TR'd the problem using ONLY the seam! When I lowered him he scoped out the line and found the face holds. "Maybe if I would have used those it would have been easier," Chris nonchalantly commented. No sooner than after touching ground he was back up on it, this time, with the added face holds. "Now that was a bit smoother that time," he adds.
|
|
p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2011 - 08:22pm PT
|
I was goofing around on Sunday afternoon Saturday (what!!) A group of guys where taking turns getting hauled up aids victim. And using chalk to mark any possible holds. it went like Let me mark this hand hold then pull me to the next. See I can climb. see my chalk.
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2011 - 09:28pm PT
|
Please identify this problem:
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2011 - 10:48pm PT
|
I'm clueless on that one...then again, what's new? Is that last photo the top part of the first photo...same side?
|
|
Dimes
Social climber
Thinking about Retirement
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2011 - 10:57pm PT
|
That is your new problem that you just did under the guise of secrecy.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Feb 17, 2011 - 03:01am PT
|
Henny...that looks like an enlarged version of this at Santee:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DTr3QscVMDc
Speaking of, would you and John be interested in a little Santee tour? I think you guys would eat that place up! Seriously, let me be your consumate guide!
|
|
REIGN 1
Social climber
Carlsbad, Ca
|
|
|
Feb 17, 2011 - 03:07am PT
|
I know that rock. F-n hard moves.
Henny, forever goes up the ramp then heads right and up.
Probably 11.c like every other problem on that rock.
|
|
Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
|
|
|
Feb 17, 2011 - 07:42am PT
|
Darrell Hensel, The Master, strikes again and climbs possibly the hardest face at Woodson. "Thin is in and small says it all, keep crankin those dimes" Great job Darrell!
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2011 - 11:44am PT
|
Gary, yes, the arete is the same in both pictures. Figure it out yet, or at least the boulder?
Donny, I knew you would know. I purposly kept your problem out of the picture to avoid clues though. The more outta sight outta mind the better anyway, as far as I'm concerned. And yes, pretty hard moves, hard enough that it seems a low percentage problem even knowing how to do it. You've done the arete. The arete is so good, but it's well guarded, eh? The arete is well worth doing even if one pulls past the dime stuff.
Thanks Johann. Just like being at Rubidoux. Hmmmmm.....
|
|
eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Feb 17, 2011 - 12:53pm PT
|
Great job Darrell. Talk about impeccable rock, that stone is bullet.
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
|
Feb 17, 2011 - 01:58pm PT
|
Awesome Darrell!! Way to take advantage of the weather window.
I don't remember the beta for Aids Victim (what's new?). My first time on it (as a warm-up) a couple of years ago was a complete shut down. Then a few months ago I got it first try and haven't been back since. Pretty cool how Woodson is an index for my progression as a climber. I bet others share a similar story.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2011 - 01:14pm PT
|
Alright, it appears I'm the only one that doesn't know what that arete is. My first impression is that it's BIG, but then I thought maybe its a perception problem so then, the reverse layback on TV Screen came to mind, but the tree branches and orange textured rock ruled that out. And, once you tell me , I'll probably still be clueless for there's a lot I haven't heard of!
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2011 - 06:20pm PT
|
Edit: Okay, wait...I've been veiwing these last few posts on my blackberry and now I'm on my spouses laptop and things are MUCH MUCH CLEARER (imagine that)! I've never really looked at what I'm about to say, but is the photo of the left side of the Airstream boulder? That texture really looks like whats around the Airsteam seam.
|
|
REIGN 1
Social climber
Carlsbad, Ca
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2011 - 06:27pm PT
|
Gary, three of the routes on that rock are about deporting, slapping n birthdays.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2011 - 06:42pm PT
|
Okay...the left arete of Slap You Silly...would that be Deport Jonny or another name?
|
|
Pointbrk
Boulder climber
Encinitas, Scal
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2011 - 10:44am PT
|
Congrads Darrell! Should have called me for a belay. What shoes did it go in? Did it get a name?
|
|
Pointbrk
Boulder climber
Encinitas, Scal
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2011 - 10:44am PT
|
Me and Matt Beebe did the next couple of ascents of Skid Row. Excellent!
|
|
ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2011 - 11:39am PT
|
Hey Gary, don't see yer name on the Josh Gig yet.....get it on there and we'll see ya there???
Peace
|
|
eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2011 - 05:09pm PT
|
Great day up on the hill yesterday until we got rained on. Checked out Henny's new route on the IMAX boulder. Awesome and insta-classic! Bullet stone and super f-ing hard as usually for Henny. My tips are purple today.
We then got on "Forever" but within minutes all our tips were thrashed and unusable.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Feb 21, 2011 - 02:09pm PT
|
Is that Woodson get-together still happening March 19-20, Sat-Sun?
Ron, any updates?
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Feb 21, 2011 - 10:57pm PT
|
I went for a walk up the hill today and met up with some of Woodson's
"Young Guns"
Hanging out with them I admired their technical skills, enthusiasm,
and dedication. But above all their comradary and genuine love of the game.
Mark and Doug working on "Top Secret File"
Eliot and Nicole working "Korean Cowboy"
|
|
eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Feb 22, 2011 - 03:27pm PT
|
Thanks for the kind words Rick! And it was great to meet you up on the hill. Let's get up there again soon.
We had a huge crew up there yesterday. Definite good times on the hill. But, it was also quite a humbling day. The other guys made lots of progress on many hard problems.
Here's Greg on Syncopation...
|
|
Horvath
Trad climber
CA
|
|
|
Feb 22, 2011 - 04:53pm PT
|
great meeting you Rick!
and thanks for the photo Eliot,
Doug and Mark, finished us off by setting up Stealth Bomber as well. Stellar day!
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Feb 22, 2011 - 08:06pm PT
|
Nice job on Syncopation Greg!
It was great hanging with you all.
|
|
Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
|
|
|
Feb 22, 2011 - 11:43pm PT
|
Did anyone actually send anything? Greg looks solid on Syncopation.
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2011 - 12:25am PT
|
Wow, looks like I missed a motivated day with excellent weather. Pretty cool, lots of good problems starting to see traffic. And good pictures to boot. It's enough to make one chomp at the bit to get back up there.
I overlooked a couple of questions earlier. Pointbrk - shoes: Phantoms. I like the softer shoes for the arete smearing, even if that isn't the crux. It's enough work getting there (feels like a route) that I wanted the odds on the arete.
Yes, the problem has a name. "Welcome to Rubidoux".
hehe
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2011 - 12:40am PT
|
Donny, about that "somewhere up and right" bit on Deport Jonny Forever. Did Rick go straight up from the top of the opening flake, which is still right of the original line? That seems to be the most natural line and is still independent. It also seems possible to step right maybe one or two moves (harder), but it'll still come back to the finishing hold that going more or less straight up leads to. Going any further right than one of those - now that just might be real 12a. Do you remember how far right he went?
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
|
Feb 23, 2011 - 12:44am PT
|
It was cool meeting you up there Rick. Thanks for the photos and kind words.
Conditions couldn’t have been better. Mark and I went for round two on TSF
and were somewhat surprised to make such progress. Although we have yet to send and regardless of how it was first done, traversing across the face definitely goes and is one of the coolest problems that I’ve been on at Woodson. What Greg neglected to mention was that he sent Stealth Bomber (after also getting Syncopation no less). I got devastatingly close (fell on the exit move) so I'll be back. For anyone who hasn’t been on it, it’s a really cool climb and shouldn’t be missed.
|
|
REIGN 1
Social climber
Carlsbad, Ca
|
|
|
Feb 23, 2011 - 12:47am PT
|
Henny, I don't recall how far right Rick went. I think it was a few feet right and up but I could be wrong.
"Welcome to what?"
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
|
Feb 23, 2011 - 12:49am PT
|
Also, we got on Head First and the crux right hand hold broke! No sends on that. Instead of being a two finger hold, it's now a one finger.
|
|
Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
|
|
|
Feb 23, 2011 - 09:45am PT
|
TSF is not that tall of a boulder problem. I see you guys have been TR'ing it which could involve tension. The landing is also very good after the opening moves which are easily spotted. I've pitched off the travese on to pads but the temps were a little too hot. One big pad and your good. BTW, get on Greg's face for a somewhat highball problem (big boulder below and facing Seminar wall on the way to Hard as Nails). Probably only 10+ at the top but a little pucker factor, just go for it and you'll be fine. Bring a rope to get off otherwise you will need to downclimb the route.
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2011 - 01:03pm PT
|
If I had felt tension while either climbing or belaying I'd only be depriving myself of the process of climbing it. The cool thing about TSF for Mark and I is that we have to believe that we can climb it before knowing the moves. Our progress manifests that realization of turning an abstract idea into something concrete. I'm not looking to cheat myself.
Greg's face was on the list of climbs to get on, but we ran out of time/daylight.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2011 - 08:02pm PT
|
Our progress manifests that realization of turning an abstract idea into something concrete. I'm not looking to cheat myself.
Doug, I hope your thought processes aren't that complicated before you step on stone for if they are, you'll never succeed! No, actually, I hope to run into you guys and get a ride on some of that motivation soon!
|
|
Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2011 - 09:48pm PT
|
No tenstion like this photo and who was belaying? The photo of you, Doug looks perfect.
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2011 - 10:14pm PT
|
From where I was standing, I didn't observe either one of them
"tuning the banjo" In the photo Mark was stepping down into the traverse as Doug was giving slack.
|
|
Horvath
Trad climber
CA
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2011 - 09:48pm PT
|
waxing philosophical Doug! I like it.
Doug has good style, and if anyone really cares, I constantly hear him yelling at belayers to not pull on him. He is all about the purity, and having fun.
Rick, you'll be pleased to know that i pulled Korean Cowboy today, complete with a solid mantel : )
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2011 - 12:09am PT
|
That's badass Greg! Wudda' liked to seen that.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2011 - 12:56am PT
|
TV screen is a litttle harder this way.
|
|
fatthew
climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2011 - 01:19am PT
|
I see you guys have been TR'ing it which could involve tension.
If there was any tension, it was strictly sexual.
|
|
p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
|
|
|
Feb 27, 2011 - 01:53am PT
|
its snowing on woodson right bow
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Feb 27, 2011 - 10:17pm PT
|
Beautiful Sunday morning.
|
|
p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
|
|
|
Feb 28, 2011 - 02:59am PT
|
I just wish i could go climbing.
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Feb 28, 2011 - 08:08am PT
|
|
|
Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
|
|
|
Feb 28, 2011 - 09:36am PT
|
Really cool snow pictures of Woodson. Just got back from Ohio late Saturday night. Rubidoux was hot yesterday(Sunday). I'll be down to Woodson for the next two days. This picture is of a Rubidoux route in the gully just past Wall of Glass area with three bolts. The fist protects the dyno and two more for the headwall(thin dime edges/balance) above placed on aid. Anyone know the name/history(Henny, KP)? This would be a very bad ass highball. Easy 5.12 30'+ OTD great landing.
|
|
fatthew
climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Feb 28, 2011 - 10:21pm PT
|
All in all, a solid day on the hill. Big thanks to Tor Syvertsen for the photos.
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2011 - 01:18am PT
|
Johnny,
I think that problem is "Welcome to Woodson".
Wait... Not a chance, we always took care of our house better than that. We were constantly on the lookout for those Woodson types trying to snake in.
I don't know anything about that problem. In fact it's one of only a few problems up there that I can't recall having ever tried. KP might know something about it. I bet it was nice up there this time of year. Although probably a bit wet yesterday.
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2011 - 01:34am PT
|
Donny,
Rick probably did move a little to the right to do Deport Jonny Forever. More independent, better moves, and closer to the given grade. I'm now thinking you were generally correct in where he went.
History 101, since you were there and were one of the players tell us the story of how Deport Jonny got it's name. I just spoke to KP and he says he originally gave it 11a, any idea how the grade ended up so inflated?
And what's up with the IMAX boulder? You locals let a Rubidoux Raiding Party get away with the goods twice on the same boulder. Oh yeah, we won't even mention the tennis shoe problem down the road a bit. Hit a nerve yet?
Edit: good pictures people, keep 'em coming.
|
|
Horvath
Trad climber
CA
|
|
yesterday, Eliot and Doug sent Fallen Gypsy... : )
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2011 - 09:42pm PT
|
Good job, guys.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
Just a note, I'll be up there on Saturday, the 19th of March, then heading to the Natural History Museum in Balboa Park to see the Banff Film Festival at 1900 that evening. The tickets are only $12, or $15 at the door. A-16 is sold out for Sat. and Sun. but the museum may still have a few left. They had (5) left for Saturday on Monday. That'll make it a full day for me...should be good!
San Diego Natural History Museum
1788 El Prado
San Diego, CA 92101
(619) 232-3821
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
Thanks Henny. That thing is a lot of fun...wouldn't have pulled it off though without Eliot's beta and psych
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
DAMN. I'm missing out on a Woodson renaissance! Gotta get my act together and train up a bit.....
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 4, 2011 - 03:02am PT
|
Alright - a post from Mr. bvb. Hope things are going well.
I can't help but think of you guys every time I make it up there. Good times, good people. I come up with a problem name and the people it really targets have all moved on - bummer. Man, sometimes it makes me feel old. Probably because I am.
Yup, do that training thing and show up. I'd make it there for that appearance.
From what I see, it's pretty cool. Lots of problems that were probably neglected for years now have fairly frequent attempts/sends. Quite a few young guns running around from the appearances of it. Kind of restores faith.
A Woodson renaissance. That has a nice ring to it.
|
|
Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
|
|
Spent Mon-Wed at Woodson and it was great to be back on the mountain. Put up some more climbs in the Sherwood forest area (Down below Hard as Nails just left of the fire road before the hairpin) Very good area with easy access. The boulder in the picture has routes up the middle of the face and the left and right arete. All very good. Around to the left of this face is a right to left leaning crack (visible from the road) and an arete to the left. The second picture (boulder just before Little John) is a great leaning crack with bad feet, another problem just left of the start, and a good crack to the left of that.
Here's one that probably has not seen alot of traffic recently. It may now with a new bolt on top, the old one was untrustworthy. Very good.
|
|
Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
|
|
Tuesday afternoon ended in disaster. Two broken legs, one leg broken Fibia and the other broken ankle.
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 4, 2011 - 03:32pm PT
|
??? what happened?
|
|
eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
|
|
holy shite man, that sucks...
|
|
Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
|
|
The guy sketched on the slab just above the overhang and landed perfectly in the center of the Mondo. Not even that high. Said he thought he broke something and did. Real bummer.
|
|
Horvath
Trad climber
CA
|
|
So it was you on that traingle slab!
Was out there on monday as well on Left Hand Rule watching you figured it was probably some new routes.
Yikes on fractures!
|
|
Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
|
|
Yeah my best wishes to all involved!! Woodson is a stout mistress as I remember...I've been training in the hope that I can make the gathering...
I am old and in the way, so I hope no one sees me me in the wrong light...
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
Tibia (anterior aspect; front of the leg), Fibula (posteriolateral; back/side of the leg), a Tib/Fib fx if both are broken, as we would say in the medical field...a little Anatomy 101 for ya Johnny (wink).
Sucks to be that guy!
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
Bump...
I guess that pad "broke" his fall. I know, not funny.
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2011 - 10:51am PT
|
What are the dates for the "gathering" again? Isn't it right around the corner?
I know, but I'm too lazy to search.
|
|
klk
Trad climber
cali
|
|
it matters what's under the pad.
dirt is usually dramatically softer than asphalt.
asphalt is usually a bit softer than granite.
psychologically, it's also a lot easier to roll if your runout is on dirt rather than asphalt.
|
|
p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
|
|
pads are falls sense of protection.
I.ve heard lots of tail of busted boons when a pad was used.
hope he hills well.
meetup's next week right or week after? 18th/19th
I hit the rexs last night first climb sines the explosion.
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
|
|
Can't tell 'ya how much I'd love to see M.P. and BVB up there!
I'll be up there to snap a few pics and offer some spots and belays.
(not good for much else these days)
03/19 -20 would be better for us working stiffs.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
Darrell, March 19 & 20, Sat/Sun. Again, last I checked (yesterday) there were still tickets avail. For the Banff Film Festival, at the Natural History Museum in Balboa Park, for Sunday. I figured it would be a cool way to end a day/weekend of climbing. Ill be going Saturday night at 7pm.
San Diego Natural History Museum
1788 El Prado
San Diego, CA 92101
(619) 232-3821
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
These photos were taken yesterday up in the Baby Robbins corridor. My five year old and I gathered up these fresh pieces from the base of Jaws. They came from the upper face to the right of the Jaws crack. They were obviously pulled from the face to create a line up the arete.
I was present with a party about a month ago who was "projecting" this line before the modifications were made. Some suggest that this may have been the result of a natural process. You be the judge!
|
|
Mark K
Social climber
San Marcos, California
|
|
Had a great couple days up on the hill this weekend with Doug, Lauren, and Phil. Doug had the idea to climb a big chunk of the hard finger cracks in one day, so we made that our goal Saturday. We warmed up on Hear my Train (or should I say Doug and Phil warmed up on it). Then we went down to Aids Victim, up to Lie Detector, then to Driving South, out to Widow Bereft, then finished up on Starving in Stereo. Doug got five out of the six, falling on the outro move on Starving (he got it easily on the one hang). It was definitely one of the most inspiring performances I've seen up on the hill.
Sunday, Doug, Lauren and I headed for the summit with a brief stop at Milkbar (which was a blast as always). We also met up with Johnny and climbed with him for a big chunk of the day. We got on Bat Flake, the Sail, and Airstream. We even managed to work on a few projects. All in all, a great weekend as Woodson.
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
Here's a couple more of Mark on the sail
p.s. good climbing with you johnny. hope the rest of the day went well
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2011 - 01:46pm PT
|
Nice. Good pictures, again. Dang, I hate being on the outside looking in.
Doug needs to find something new and challenging. Obviously the thin cracks aren't even raising a sweat anymore. I asked him if he really had anything left for thin cracks the last time I saw him. That circuit proves the accuracy of his answer. At the risk of sounding like a broken record, good job guys.
Anybody do the arete left of Airstream? I can't believe Johnny would have let anybody get away without pushing them onto that. Not too hard, but good.
Gary, were those holds just loose or would they have required excessive force to remove?
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
Thanks Henny. I have a whole list of woodson climbs (that never gets smaller) that I'd like to get and one project in particular that I would really love to do.
Johnny did point the arete out and said it was really good. The four of us went off to the sail though and then down to bat flake. After Bat Flake Johnny headed off and Lauren, Mark, and I decided to just go up to Airstream since we are hardly ever up at the summit area. Mark and I scoped the arete, but didn't have the foam or cajones (or both?) to get on it. It does look amazing though. I need to go up there with the mondo.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
I have to comment, as well, on that crack circuit...that's HARDCORE! Are you guys bouldering the start of Lie Detector or ? Just a note, Mark and Doug, the guy I was with, Andrew, he does all those cracks in that circuit as well. You guys need to get together. I wish I could stay up with you guys, *sigh.* Maybe you can share some of that talent and motivate me one day.
Darrell, to tell you the truth, I've never banged away on that section of rock in 30 years and never thought of "banging away" on that rock neither. There was obviously some space behind the layer but I'm tellin you...the kids created this line and not only that, its an "eye sore" next to the single splitter, Jaws, that fractured that gorgeous orange textured rock.
So, what's next, bang away next to Mother Superior and break away any potentially loose flakes to create another line? Or what about any of the other classic crack lines up there? I'm sure there is some potential exfoliation going on somewhere next to those cracks. Scar up the whole mountain that way and double the amount of "lifetime" problems at Woodson!
Wait till you see the mess Henny.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
...and not that this has anything to do with "the price of tea in China" (or does it?) but the guy(s) I'm suspecting of doing this, when asked if he was going to do Jaws that day, responded, "Oh no, my crack skills arent up to par right now." So, I can't climb a 5.11 finger crack but I can destroy the aesthetics next to it by prying away flakes to create an overhanging face route? Doesn't this ring of placing bolts next to a crack or what? I'm trying to liason with this guy as we speak to see if he was indeed the culprit. If I'm out of line, please stop me and get me off this horse for I've never taken this stance in climbing before.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
On a more positive note, we went down to the "Sherwood Forrest" area and checked it out a bit. I changed my mind earlier in the afternoon and decided against it but ended up back down there way late and racing the daylight. We bouldered the dark, coarse finger/hand crack (classic 5.9) and tried, and tried, ...and tried,...and tried to stick the finishing moves on the overhanging face/arete next to it but couldn't finish it (what's up with reaching the top of that thing?)! That overhanging, diagonaling seam looked pretty hard too! Didn't get on that nor did we have time to try that decievingly easy crack on the end of that triangle face (the topout looked a bit sketchy). We'll have to return.
|
|
Horvath
Trad climber
CA
|
|
cripes I leave town for one weekend, and looks what happens
nice work guys!
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
"The Sail" is a perfect name for that formation. The names of the routes seem to have been lost to time however, so Im going to correct that. The righthand route is "I Spy", and the left is "The Man from UNCLE" Me and Allenby installed the 1/4 bolt with leeper hanger and did those things in 1986. I think we graded them 11c and 11d respectively.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
Woodson Rennaisance...I like it. Nobody turns a phrase like BVB. I think the long awaited 3rd wave of development has begun in earnest on the hill.
The first wave bagged the mega classics and ebbed around 80-81. The second wave applied the Santee mentality, mopping up the hundreds of obvious shorter and less aesthetic routes and problems (and plenty of classics as well), and was roughly the mid 80s through late 90's.
Development never stopped, but has been in the ebb mode until the past year or so, and now the boom. Being old, fat and weak (theres a good case for dimwitted as well) now, I can only participate from my lawn chair (any help in getting it in position would be appreciated) and cheer on the young guns of the 3rd wave. Hats off to ya!
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2011 - 11:01am PT
|
Are there 3 main problems on the Sail? I ask because I only remember 2 major ones, plus the left edge. And I believe the right hand one is a Bedford creation named "Spellbinder" (?), 5.12 something - if I remember correctly (for some reason I have a hard time remembering the name of that problem).
When I was there with Bedford a while back it seemed like the standard problem hadn't been done in ages as there was a lot of scale on it. Probably cleaner now that it's seen more traffic. Elegant boulder in a great location, that's for sure. And as Ron noted, aptly named.
(Edit: But seriously folks, what makes it as good as Uncertaintly? Did we fall down and bump our heads or something? Don't shoot me, don't shoot me, just saying..., IMO, and all that. They're kind of different aren't they?)
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2011 - 11:56am PT
|
How and why did it come about that the name of American Gypsy was changed to Fallen Gypsy?
I have a philosophical question of sorts.
Should problems, or routes, where a hold breaks off be renamed? If the difficulty was reduced instead of increased would it still have been renamed? I find that doubtful, so why rename it because it got a little harder? Was Cool Jerk renamed after the knob broke off? Let's say a hold broke off Uncertainty, would it be acceptable to rename it because it got a little harder? I say no. Changing the rating is certainly acceptable, and even taking note of who may have done it if it increased substantially in difficulty, but renaming it seems odd to me. It is the nature of problems that use face holds to potentially change over time. Renaming something every time it changes seems pretty chaotic and pointless. Yes, there are tangents here: aid/free renaming, naming a variation of line, and the likes. But the Gypsy doesn't seem to fit any of them. Isn't it really still the American Gypsy, only a little harder? Thoughts?
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
Im with you Henny, once the route has been created and named it becomes a topographical feature foreverafter. If a hold breaks it really cant be a new route. Imagine the new routes some unsavory type could rack up by breaking holds then being the first to reclaim them. The exception being if the author of the route breaks the hold and renames the route, or consents to the renaming. One of the founding tenets of free climbing is that all rights to a given route are the inviolate property of the first ascent party. Meaning that any retro protection, renaming or whatever has to be done by, or with expressed consent of the author(s).
In the case of Fallen Gypsy, Greg never seemed to have a problem with the renaming, but Greg's ethic is of such lofty standard that he may have disowned the route after a hold broke (that is meant as a compliment of the highest order btw). Greg? Wanna straighten this out?
On The Sail, I can only say that Rick and I put up 2 routes on the south face of the formation; I spy is to the right (east) of center, the most obvious line, and The Man from UNCLE starts just left of center and diagonals right.
Dont ask me about Bedford creations, because I could never do any of them. If Donny did either or both of these routes before we did, it wouldnt surprise me, and if that be the case, I (and Im sure Rick too, tho I havent talked to him about it) would be happy to return the routes (slightly used) to the rightful owner.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
Footnote: When the rotten log on Royal Arches disappeared, the route went from 5.6 to 5.9 and it didnt get renamed.
|
|
Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
|
|
Another great weekend spent at Woodson. Saturday was too hot for hard climbing in the sun but there are always shady climbs to get on. I tried my latest project 1st thing in the morning but it was already way too hot. The handholds felt horrible, the foot smears even worse. Spent most of Sunday messsing around waiting for the clouds to roll in. Sure enough, around 4:00 PM the fog started to cover the upper half of the mountain and the temperature dropped considerably. I got on my mini-trax and second go, sent. The climb is called "The Vision" and was shown to me by Ron Amick as it was something he had worked on BITD. It's hard to tell the dificulty but felt impossible and unclimbable at first. Slowly the sequences emerged and everything came together. I would guess some sort of 5.12. It faces due South and is located on the big boulder NE of American(Fallen) Gypsy. An excellent climb, top ten on the mountain. Smears, edging, and small knobs, classic Woodson. Thank you Ron.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
My pleasure, John. Im stoked that you sent that thing! Good work.
|
|
Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
|
|
What a perfect find, Ron. Remember this old friend?
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2011 - 12:29am PT
|
Good job, Johann.
Dang, you sent that thing before I even had a chance to come down and try to snake it from you. Bummer. (haha).
Problems getting repeated, new problems getting put up. Cool.
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
|
|
Nice job on "the Vision"
Cool you kept the name.
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
nice Johnny!
p.s. Gary, we had a TR on Lie Detector
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
That would be my hand made hanger and 1/4 bolt, John. Theres a story behind the name "The Vision".
I got married in 1982, and the wife and I absolutely did not want kids. We had grand plans to travel the world and didnt want to be encumbered, and because she couldnt take the pill, my wife (asta)had an operation to have her tubes clipped.
Fast forward to 1985. We simultaneously decide we want to have kids, so Asta undergoes a tricky and expensive surgical procedure to have her fallopian tubes reconnected. In April of 1986 she is pregnant and we are ecstatic, but I have a deep, nagging concern.
After all our efforts to prevent children, we suddenly decide its ok, so how does that stand with our karma? Do we now deserve a healthy baby? Im not a religious man, but I do believe in god, and I wondered how all of this stood in his eyes.
One blustery, cloudy day I was up on Mt Woodson atop my latest project, a massive boulder on the SW rampart of the hill. The question was weighing heavy on my soul as I brushed loose flakes from the face on rappel, and when I got back to the top of the boulder, I had a little talk with god.
I will never forget the cold wind punishing me and the clouds racing by all around me as I stood on what felt like the edge of the world, looking into the sky. Then the wind seemed to blow right through me, and my worries were replaced by a warm reassurance that all was well. It was as dramatic as you can imagine, one moment weighed down by profound troubles, and the next moment, light as a feather. There is no doubt in my mind that god spoke to me at that moment, telling me "we're good dude, dont sweat it".
Eight months later we had our only child, Matthew. Today Matt is 24 years old and still my pride and joy, and that is whence came the name "The Vision".
|
|
Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
|
|
Thanks Ron for sharing that with us. The actual phsical moves of a climb are just one aspect but far from the only ones. Every climb has a history and story of all who have endeavored to make it to the top or just dreamed of making it. Man I love this sport, it means everything to me.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
yah, climbing ROCKS
(didnt see the double entendre until i typed it, lol)
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Mar 10, 2011 - 02:38am PT
|
1975. "We're hanging out down at the Ski Mart on Garnet Ave, where Largo works. There was a primitive bouldering wall carved into the brick wall upstairs. so we're hanging out there one night and JL is holding court. Me and my buddy Doug are talking to him about climbing and new routes and the life well-lived, and at one point -- I swear to God I'm not making this up -- he gets quiet, gazes off into space for a few moments, then murmurs as if to himself, "You gotta have vision, man. you gotta have vision." Me and my buddy were so starstruck we used that quote as the frontispiece to this horrific little supplement to the Mission Gorge guide that we hacked together a few months later, the immortal Scumbag Digest." Story by: BVB
|
|
giegs
climber
Tardistan
|
|
|
Mar 10, 2011 - 03:04am PT
|
I'm working in Ramona until the snakes scare me away... probably early May. Only seen a few so far and there's been a cold snap the day after...
What's the standard crack circuit? Guide book? Useful gear to pack? Are the slabs you see as you head towards El Cajon worth any bother?
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Mar 10, 2011 - 03:26am PT
|
Crack Circuit? Wahahahahahahahaha! And you're in Ramona?...Uh, Mt. Woodson dude, lol! Send me an email and I'll do my best to give you a tour.
|
|
giegs
climber
Tardistan
|
|
|
Mar 10, 2011 - 03:39am PT
|
Yea, I know they're there, just haven't had time to wander around... weather last couple weeks shat on my weekends and I don't get much time off. I'm staying up in Wynola, currently back in Flagstaff until next Wednesday. Will email.
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Mar 11, 2011 - 07:15pm PT
|
See Ya'll on the 19th bump!
|
|
eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Mar 11, 2011 - 10:28pm PT
|
Great story about The Vision Ron. The history of routes, problems and areas can definitely breathe life into the places we climb and it is what makes certain places so special. That is definitely one aspect that I love about Woodson. It has such a rich history.
Nice work on The Vision and the new stuff in Sherwood, Johann. I look forward to trying them out.
See you all on the 18th, if not sooner...
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
|
Mar 11, 2011 - 11:51pm PT
|
After school today I hiked up the hill with the intent of wrapping up my project by Airstream. I first looked at the problem a couple of years ago, but thinking it was pretty futuristic, didn't get on it until recently. Anxious, but equally psyched, I sent it this afternoon. I started with my left hand in the tips seam and my right hand on the low sloper. It's short, but the moves are really fun. Does any one know of any previous ascents? As you walk up the road it's hard to miss so I wouldn't be surprised if it has some history.
Here are a couple photos that Lauren took last weekend
|
|
p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
|
|
|
Mar 12, 2011 - 12:44am PT
|
giegs-
whatcha doine in Wynola? Im back and forth between Ramona and Julian. due to the explosion at my pops house. where climbing on stone wall tomorrow. hit my cell when your up to gettin on some rock I live in Ramona and We are willing to climb with almost anyone. 760-270-5678
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 12, 2011 - 10:18pm PT
|
Nice Doug. Doesn't matter if it was done previously or not, although it would be nice if it was new. A new problem would help keep the mini-string of new problems we have going alive.
Good send, either way.
I concur, thanks for sharing the story Ron. Problems/routes that have some deeper personal connection are always the best.
|
|
justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
|
|
|
Mar 13, 2011 - 12:35am PT
|
Bump for climbing!
|
|
crøtch
climber
|
|
|
Mar 13, 2011 - 01:06am PT
|
"36 V3otd** El Barbaro- upside down offwidth in chimney made by huge flake on E side, use handjams at base of 5.4 flake to invert, sitstart adds no difficulty FA- Roed"
|
|
crøtch
climber
|
|
|
Mar 13, 2011 - 01:14am PT
|
|
|
eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Mar 14, 2011 - 04:53pm PT
|
Speaking of FA's, with the help of Ken Ariza, we found this beauty in Yosemite Valley last Spring. It's past Mirror Lake along the trail.
Ken, Doug and I (and a few others) got to work figuring out the first moves as well as scrubbing the lichen off the rock.
The final product was a sick highball that can also be led or TR'd (like a Woodson climb). The start was about 5.11 with the top section going at about 5.10-
Doug and I decided to call it "Woodson 5.9" as a tip of the hat to Woodson.
Sorry for all the spray.
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2011 - 06:12pm PT
|
Cool Eliot.
But -
Now why would you want to go and name a problem with "Woodson" in the name when the problem was in Yosemite? That just doesn't seem right...
Know what I mean?
|
|
eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Mar 14, 2011 - 07:45pm PT
|
Exactly, Henny! It isn't right and probably shouldn't be done. Ken, being a big FAist in Yosemite, for sure didn't like the name. Mainly, Doug and I were just ribbing him about Woodson this and Woodson that. Sorry Ken.
But, honestly though, it's pretty ridiculous if you think about it. I mean, how can I even associate Woodson with the quality and history of Yosemite Valley? It'd be like someone coming to Mt. Woodson and associating some other lesser area with the incredible quality and history we enjoy at Woodson. Right?
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2011 - 09:50pm PT
|
I wouldn't know if it was right or wrong Eliot...you seem to have lost me there somewhere. I can't understand a single word of that last paragraph of yours. Makes absolutely no sense at all. Is there supposed to be some subtle, deeper, implied meaning hidden in those words?
Keep pushing your luck.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Mar 15, 2011 - 02:36am PT
|
This saturday should be fun, if you are thinking about hitting the hill, do it! If you plan on being there it wouldnt hurt to sound out - whiny fence-sitters will be persuaded to join us if they think its gonna be a scene. The weather should be ideal (henny, Ive arranged for it to not be too hot for you), but even if its just us locals it will be way fun.
EVENTS:
climbing
hanging out
walking around
n stuff
We all know how the hill absorbs people, making it hard to form a decent mob, and we all know theres nothing funner than a mob of climbers. Once we have a mob, non climbing fun like swarming, rioting and some serious mosh
action are always attractive options.
Plan on starting your day high on the hill and working your way down. Painted boulder is the perfect place to congregate toward the end of the day. The best bouldering on the hill (based on quality, quantity, accessibility and good landings) as well as lots of TR classics are located in close proximity to painted. If we all drop a rope on one problem and and leave it there for anyone to use, you could climb till you drop with nothing more than your harness and a beer (or water for beginning climbers) needed!
After we get off the hill we could move the mob into town and get some mexican food or hit the hamburger factory or something. Out of towners who plan on sleeping in their vehicle can park it at my place for the night, we have room for 4 or 5 vehicles. Its easy to sack out on the hill too, but be discreet about it. The jaws area offers a nice bivy.
Lets do it.
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Mar 15, 2011 - 07:47am PT
|
May need rain gear?
|
|
KP Ariza
climber
SCC
|
|
|
Mar 15, 2011 - 03:08pm PT
|
Iv'e got to set the record straight about the name" Woodsen 5.9". I think it is a great name for a kick ass line Elliot, very fitting for that trip as well.
One day in the ditch last year I took Elliot and Doug to a confirmed V6 boulder crack. After trying it a number of times and really getting no where, Doug makes the statement " Woodsen 11.c man". Kind of a big statement for a guy who didn't even pull the first crux. So, after calling him out, it became kind of a running joke for me. Apparently the name has since been applied to Elliots fa.
From what I understand Doug has since been chewing up and spitting out most of the Woodsen test pieces so I'm sure he could send of both of these things now, but at the time it was a little ironic. BTW, I'm curious Henny, why is it not such a great name?
|
|
eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Mar 15, 2011 - 03:34pm PT
|
Hahaha, the truth comes out! Thanks for setting the record straight Ken. We did get shut down on the "11c" line and that was the plum! Hopefully Doug can't remember how to get to that problem though cuz he ain't the same dude today.
That was a great trip.
|
|
KP Ariza
climber
SCC
|
|
|
Mar 15, 2011 - 03:49pm PT
|
They're both plums bro. Doug was climbing well then too and I think It would be fun to get back there and go to those things again this year. I'd love to see them get sent. Maybe this year he'll be getting on the Salathe headwall and calling it "Woodsen 12a" bwabwabwa!!!
Just kidding Doug, couldn't help myself on that one.
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2011 - 04:27pm PT
|
It's a fine name.
A new problem was very recently put up at Woodson, which, oddly enough, was given a similar type name - "Welcome to Rubidoux". Although, hearing more of the story about "Woodson 5.9" it may have been for slightly different reasons.
Rubidoux is another bouldering area an hour and a half or so away from Woodson. Over the years there have been ongoing visits exchanged between locals of the two areas, each side trying to pull off a coup on the others ground. It now appears that Rubidoux has finally emerged completely victorious. Anyway, not knowing the full story when I saw the name/location mismatch "Woodson/Yosemite" I assumed Eliot had done what this other person had done when naming a problem at Woodson.
It really had nothing to do with the name, or quality, of Woodson 5.9. It was just used as an opportunity to exchange some subtle jabs.
|
|
KP Ariza
climber
SCC
|
|
|
Mar 15, 2011 - 04:59pm PT
|
Nice. Elliot just gave me the scoop via text.
thanks
|
|
eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Mar 15, 2011 - 06:58pm PT
|
I did see some similarities in how the names were arrived at which was one reason I posted the story. It's funny though, there's a thread called something like, "Regional Rivalries" that is absolutely hilarious with all sorts of Woodson/Rubidoux banter as well as other area "rivalries." The thread had me laughing and it seemed to be all in good fun.
But really Henny, Rubidoux, victorious? I mean, it's like BVB said, "It's a Woodson renaissance."
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
|
Mar 15, 2011 - 07:32pm PT
|
Just to be clear, I wasn’t trying to downrate it because I couldn’t climb it. It’s short, steep, stout, and reminded me of a lot of stuff on woodson. As far as the 11c part goes, that's a comment about ratings at woodson. No way did your problem feel 11c! Ratings aside though, that was a seriously awesome find, Ken. Thanks for taking us out there. And that WAS a really good trip.
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
|
Mar 15, 2011 - 07:32pm PT
|
Haha. way to stoke the fire Eliot
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2011 - 08:08pm PT
|
Well... ok, Eliot.
Purely for the sake of argument, let's say I was a Woodson local.
I would probably be pretty bummed that a) I didn't keep my own house clean and someone had to come in and help clean up, and b) that my local area required something like a renaissance because it was still in the dark ages, when Rubidoux had been Enlightened years ago.
Oh boy. It never seems to end.
|
|
p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
|
|
|
Mar 15, 2011 - 11:36pm PT
|
Sat after climbing! Every one need to head in to Ramona and eat at the 3rd st grill. My friend and a climber is one of the owners. The chow is real good.
Head on 67 through Ramona to 3rd st just past sizzler
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Mar 15, 2011 - 11:37pm PT
|
I did my share of climbing at Rubidoux BITD, and I must say its a fine little area, almost as nice as Santee.
Woodson's unlimited supply of 5 star plums has always allowed the traditionally generous and humble locals to set a few FA's aside for visitors to "discover". We hope you enjoy your stay!
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2011 - 12:12am PT
|
Ah yes. Good Ron.
Each of the two places has something going for it. It's not really fair to compare them. One of the nice things about Woodson is how much there's left to do. That's not the story at Rubidoux.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Mar 16, 2011 - 01:26am PT
|
The porch light is always on for you down here, henny. Love seeing you on the hill. Will you be bringing your sidekick dimes?
Hey P-owed, Im up for that. Hows your dad doing?
|
|
KP Ariza
climber
SCC
|
|
|
Mar 16, 2011 - 05:58pm PT
|
Doug, friendly jabs brother....thats all. Keep the buzz saw going down there and once you and Elliot chew through all of those cracked orange jelly beans, you will be more than honed to take your skills to classic splitters anywhere.
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
|
Mar 16, 2011 - 11:57pm PT
|
for sure Ken. "cracked jelly beans" ...i like that
|
|
crøtch
climber
|
|
|
Mar 17, 2011 - 02:16am PT
|
Elliot - that crack is past the summit and past the Ogre.
|
|
p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
|
|
|
Mar 19, 2011 - 03:59am PT
|
my dad is doing good. All his bandages are off and just scared on his hands. lucky not his face.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2011 - 01:21am PT
|
Friday afternoon I had a classic woodson outing. I was headed up to the east side to look around above the missing link, but the sun was too low to go that high on the hill, so I set out to find the start of a certain trail lower down. Three hours later I had cut about 100 yards of trail through some brush that had a serious attitude.
As it often does in the brush, the struggle turned personal, and it became the man vs bush grudge match. The more the bushes cut and punctured me, the more ruthless became my eradication. A particularly stout manzanita stub about 18" tall and 3" in diameter resisted all efforts to rip it out. I was putting weight on it to snap some roots when my foot slipped. I had no handholds, so when i flew off i landed on my back in a tangle of brush with the stump at my feet, and now it was ON.
I wrapped one leg around the stump and pulled it downward in a classic wrestling tap-out move, then got on my knees and did the sumo chuck on it in the opposite direction. I pushed, pulled, twisted and lifted in different directions, gradually weakening it. I wasnt gonna lose this one, but i needed some advantage. I found a 40 lb rock and hoisted it high over my head then brought down with all my might, severing most of the roots. Then I took that punk to the mat again, ripped the entire root ball from the ground, flinging it into the bushes with a victory whoop.
It was now getting dark, so i started back out, tossing my cuttings off the trail as I went. Clearing the cuttings from a trail in deep brush is a difficult task. Some of the cuttings are small tree sized and their branches catch on everything, so you have to rip it out of the bushes, get it high enough to clear the surrounding brush, then toss it. Branches that dont clear get flung back at you, puncturing and lacerating. The battle was fierce and lasted the whole way out, but I got most of the cuttings off the trail.
I emerged from the brush soaked in sweat, covered with dirt and twigs and bleeding from a dozen places, but filled with the satisfaction of having vanquished many worthy adversaries. As I caught my breath I watched the moon rise, illuminating the surroundings in its cold, stark light. I made it to the road by moonlight and walked down feeling completely thrashed, and having found exactly what I came for.
Man, I love that place.
Self portrait before the festivities began
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2011 - 02:01am PT
|
More fun on the hill today, bouldering all around the playground. The highlight of my day was belaying Johansolo on his new 5 star classic, The Vision (5.12/5.12+). The name originally referred to something else, but is now even more appropriate because more than anything, it is John's vision that made this route a reality.
It is a brilliant sequence of powerful moves that require extreme precision, on holds that are really thin, and rock that is really steep.
Well done John.
|
|
Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2011 - 02:32am PT
|
Great day up on the mountian with semi-cool temps and no rain. Thanks to Ron and Rick for the tour and stories. Sorry, but no pics from me. Really fun with old friends and new.
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2011 - 09:28pm PT
|
Had a great day on the hill Sat.
It was great to finally meet Johnny (Johannsolo)
A very talented climber and just all around good people.
Ron and I had a blast hanging out with him and exchanging stories.
We also ran into the "young guns": Doug, Mark, Phil, Eliot and Nicole.
Not to mention Woodson journeyman Gary McKay.
I took a mess of pics with a new point and shoot but I've not quite figured
it out yet. All the photos were taken in "auto mode' and ended up coming out blurry. But, here's a few shots to at least remember the day.
Johnny walking up "Death Vomit"
Nicole cruising the "Uncertainty Principle'
Johnny on his new test piece "The Vision"
Johnny crankin' a face climb on the boulder behind "Uncertanty P"
Johnny and Nicole bouldering the crux moves on the aid seam to the left.
|
|
eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2011 - 11:05pm PT
|
Cool stuff on this thread as always. Conditions were pretty good yesterday though a little humid with the storm coming in. Hopefully Woodson season can stick around a while longer as it's been great to get up there with new and old friends. Always inspiring to see new and old climbs as well.
Great pics Rick, and again, happy birthday! Next time I'll hack it up with you guys.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Mar 21, 2011 - 03:44am PT
|
Its nice to see such a motivated and talented group of local climbers on the hill. All that energy and enthusiasm is contagious. Now Im all psyched to get back into climbing shape and terrorize all the 5.9s on the hill (my strength to weight ratio at present is analogous to a potato hanging from two rubber bands).
As for Woodson ever being out of season, its not. At least half if not more of the climbs on the hill are in the shade in the afternoon, and theres usually a nice breeze coming off the ocean.
Dont start up any earlier than 1:00pm and stay off of west facing climbs and you can climb at woodson all summer.
Honest Injun
|
|
p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
|
|
|
Mar 21, 2011 - 12:11pm PT
|
Me and some friends went up Fri night played in the playground till midnight.
got back up sat afternoon messed around on painted bolder then up to baby robins. was a great day on the mountain.
|
|
eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Mar 21, 2011 - 05:38pm PT
|
You got that right Ron. Woodson season never does end, especially when you live so close to the hill. Sometimes even a weekday evening session is possible.
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Mar 21, 2011 - 06:51pm PT
|
weekday evenings for sure.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Mar 23, 2011 - 01:13am PT
|
The sequence to Christ on Crutches
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
|
Mar 23, 2011 - 01:30am PT
|
that right hand is heinous on Christ On Crutches...so grainy!!!!!!!!
|
|
Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
|
|
|
Mar 23, 2011 - 05:12am PT
|
Great talking to you Ron! I wish I could have been there with my ol' bro's!!! Geez...I used to be a fixture there... :)
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Mar 24, 2011 - 03:14am PT
|
It would be great to see you Mike. Yah you were the MAN at woodson for a long time. Michael Paul is woven into the history of Mt Woodson.
Looking forward to seeing you at Joshua Tree.
|
|
whitey1
Trad climber
california
|
|
|
Mar 24, 2011 - 04:16am PT
|
Was up at Woodson march 12th with my 9 year old son and awesome wife. Did Sickle crack for the first time,wife made it look easy, Fun climb. I got attacked by a few bee's just below the anchor's and got stung twice. Bad.. anyway didn't see any hive? maybe one in the area? Soon after I was on control tower and scared myself when my shoulder seemed to lock up (maybe cause of the bee stings to my arm)right below the top. I know I'm a wuss (but I thought I was going to break my legs). Got the family on top of top of Tower 1 at the end of the day with my first ever stick clip (I found out why its called STICK clipping). All and all another Great day at Woodson (for us beginner's) with the Wife and son,proud of them both.
|
|
eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Mar 24, 2011 - 06:57pm PT
|
Cool stuff whitey1, sorry bout the stings though.
Watusi, I have to say that you still are a fixture at Woodson, even if you haven't been there in a while. As Ron said, you are woven into the history of Mt. Woodson and everyone I climb with knows about you and your climbing career there (and elsewhere).
In fact, Doug and I were just talking about you while trying to figure out "Pruneface" up near the summit. I'm not sure if that was one of your FA's but I associate you with it. I seem to recall a photo of you on it. Maybe it was posted on another Woodson thread. Anyway as Ron said, it'd be great to see you on the hill again someday soon.
TKingsbury, those photos are stellar!!!!
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Mar 24, 2011 - 07:39pm PT
|
I agree Eliot. M.P. owned Woodson BITD.
Or I should say co-owned for sure.
He definatly owned the thin cracks.
He did them ropeless sometimes in sneakers.
Yeah...M.P. did the first ascent of "Prune Face".
The crux is near the middle and the top is 5.10.
I got careless once and came off the upper moves.
BVB was spotting me and I totally took him out as we both ended up 20 ft.
down the hill. A great spot though..he saved my ass!
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2011 - 09:59pm PT
|
Gotta agree - those pictures are killer - good link, TKingsbury! Those pictures capture what might be my favorite area up there, with one of the best concentration of good problems (personal taste). You can easily see Laker Girls, Bad Boys, Skid Row, Cool Jerk, the tops of all the IMAX problems, Cast of 1000 Stones, and more. Very, very cool. I think I just got re-motivated.
The only thing that could make them any better is if The Big Grunt wasn't in the center of both of them. Some things are just better left unseen.
|
|
Horvath
Trad climber
CA
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2011 - 12:09am PT
|
Some of you already know, but I am working on a new book for Woodson. I currently have over 500 routes for the main road written up. There are a couple hundred more off the main road I need to document, as well as several hundred more on the summit area, the Junctions, and the Fry Koegel Trail. As for the Everest area, i will let you know in the future.
As of now I am not making any promises, but the intention is to have fully comprehensive book and I expect that it will be somewhere over 1200 routes. (many ridiculous 5.9 obscurities but, so it goes).
Other intentions include actually useful maps, gps, photos, and having as much new route information as possible as well as historical accuracy on known routes (as in proper naming and FA info). So if you are willing and have info to share please do! (Gary!! and many others of course-please enlighten me!)
I can already thank, Ron, Rick, and Darrel for being very friendly and providing me with some historical guides as well as general info.
So, iff you have put up anything new, or know of new stuff, please inform me. I know Johnny (sp? sorry man haven't met you) has put up a bunch and Darrel's got his new Welcome to Rubidoux-and I am certain there are others.
Naysayers: If you hate guidebooks, and think that I am a terrible egotistical self aggrandizing person for spreading info about our quiet little Woodson, I accept member to member messages so please send all hate mail there.
I will say, in pre defense, that I currently have zero first ascents at Woodson, so I really do not have anything to brag about.
However, for those of you who do have FA's, message me!! and your name will be next to your route!
Thank you in advance for your help in this project, I will be the first to admit that I do not know what I am getting myself into, so all help is greatly appreciated!
See you on the hill,
Greg
|
|
p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2011 - 12:45am PT
|
I'm looking forward to a new and usable guild to Woodson. the currant one sucks.
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2011 - 12:52am PT
|
Good luck on what has to be a big undertaking Greg.
Expecting over 1200 routes - not surprising given how many boulders are on that hill. It's actually more surprising its not expected to be over 2400 - better get busy Johan (Johnny) and help get that count up to something more respectable than a paltry, pitiful 1200.
How much activity is there on the Everest side? I've heard that it's become pretty seriously grown over with poision oak. And that the glue ons are in complete dis-repair (debatable if that's any loss). I haven't been over there for quite a few years - not since Bedford took me up there in an attempt to thrash me on the glue-ons.
ok, so he might have succeeded in thrashing me a teeny little bit. The glue-ons were kind of fun even though they were (are?) an abomination. I recall some of the stuff over there looking pretty good. How much developed stuff is on that side anyway?
|
|
BeeHay
Trad climber
San Diego CA
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2011 - 12:54am PT
|
mebbe u shud rite right write one.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2011 - 02:07am PT
|
This is from rc.com. (http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/California/San_Diego_County/Mt_Everest/Glue_Ups/);
I took this back in '09...
"Frozen in Time" the Glue Ups still remain after nearly two decades of weather and two fires. Although, I would deem the wall unsafe to be climbed on (brittle holds and unsafe draws and anchors), the routes remain as a testament to the boldness of the enthusiasts back in the day. It was quite a site to behold then and still is to this day. A motivated crew could reestablish this outdoor gymnasium back into the craze of its day.
Park in the turn out before the yellow house on the south side of 67 and walk 130 paces, with traffic, to a cairn that marks the beginning of the trail (before the yellow street sign)".
The ropes you see in the photo are fixed to the rusted chains/anchors on top, and are in tatters (sheath missing, core exposed), etc, as are the draws that you can see. Remnants of Bondo, holds, misc., in cardboard boxes are found tucked in at the base of the rock.
|
|
p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2011 - 03:23am PT
|
I cleared a trail up to everest a few months ago. Someone has been climbing up their regularly. They go through that houses driveway. And have kept the rest of the trails clear. I haven't got up to the glue ups yet but i should soon.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2011 - 03:39am PT
|
Horvath, if you are going to try to document all the little obscure problems on the hill, 1200 might cover the playground and south slope. On the entire hill? (x10). Take it from someone who knows, you are writing the never ending story, and no matter how hard you try all you will get is grief. And if these kids ever learn how to explore, god help the scribe.
Nonetheless, good luck! Just be sure you do a good job.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2011 - 03:46am PT
|
C. McKnight below the opening mantle of Soylent Green on Mt. Everest, followed by two more bolts and the crux, summit block above, 5.10c...
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2011 - 04:00am PT
|
Mt Everest is ok, but K2 is spectacular (the obvious giant boulder with curving crack 3/4 up the hill). Leavitt put up a bolted 5.11d called Magic Line, thats the best lead in the county. Starting left of the crack, face climbing leads to vertical climbing on the arete thats really good despite the enhanced holds. The crux is moving from the arete to a shallow dish out on the face, where you assume at least 80 feet of dead vertical exposure. An unlikely line of horizontal scoops and humps on what appears to be a blank wall takes you to the dead center of the face, and right where the scoops run out, a line of holds magically appears that takes you to the top.
Good stuff
The follower needs to be on his game
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2011 - 04:12am PT
|
I say, do your best documenting the boulders and their problems and leave it open-ended for expansion in future guide-books. The guide book isn't for those familiar with the mountain but for the opposite, the first time, and returning visitors!
I just ran into a kid the other day with his pad, walking up the road near Hamburger Crack, with a San Diego County guidebook in his hand. In conversation he told me it was his first time up on the mountain and that he was trying to orient himself with the book, but gave up, and decided to just head up the mountain and look for boulders along the road and occasionally take a trail that he happened upon. He said he could accomplish alot more this way as opposed to trying to follow the guide-book. As we all know, these are the most common remarks you get from visitors to Woodson and what a lot of us went through back in the day until you ran into someone familiar with the area and they took you under their wing.
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2011 - 04:30am PT
|
... really good despite the enhanced holds. You got chutzbah.
|
|
Horvath
Trad climber
CA
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2011 - 02:19pm PT
|
Darrel and Ron, I completely agree about the number, in retrospect, I shouldn't have put one out there. I agree that Woodson has the potetential for significantly more than the number I gave.
I'm really just going for as many as possible with the understanding that it is an impossible task.
And Gary, your point is well taken and actually was the main motivation for writing the guidebook. I did not fall in love with woodson untill after two years of climbing there. The first couple I was just so fed up with not being able to find anything. I read somewhere that Robbins sayed he loved guidebooks, because if done properly, they allow a new climber or visitor to maximize their climbing time in an unfamiliar area. That's my goal.
|
|
F10
Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2011 - 03:01pm PT
|
Mt Everest
photo credits Tom Scott
|
|
Horvath
Trad climber
CA
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2011 - 12:39pm PT
|
Nice pics Tom!
Did we meet at Hamburger crack a couple weeks ago?
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Mar 27, 2011 - 01:24am PT
|
Where the arete turns vertical there are 3 dinner plate sized flakes, all of which have been broken, resulting in nice flat holds that are crucial to the climb. It is possible, against all odds, that the top of all 3 broke off under use and every one left a perfect hold. Possible, but highly improbable. Can I say with certainty that the flakes were doctored? No, but it sure looks that way. Whatever the case, I had nothing to do with it. I only climbed the route, and while I was dismayed at the apparent heavy handed tactics of the first ascent, it was an exciting and difficult climb with lots of exposure, and I really enjoyed climbing it.
How is that chutzpah?
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Mar 27, 2011 - 01:34am PT
|
Johannsolo strikes again. John Weinberg on one of two new routes he put up today, both on this recently discovered face, both 5.12. Rick Allenby belaying.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Mar 27, 2011 - 02:22am PT
|
Now, that's what I like to see, the "hip belay," nice job Rick! All you needed to complete the picture was a "bowline on a coil" Johnny.
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Mar 27, 2011 - 12:14pm PT
|
"Thin is in"
As discovery of new cracks disappear, thin face problems lead the way.
Perfect weather for the thin stuff, cool and cloudy.
Johnny on "Fly By Night"
Johnny working one of his new projects.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Mar 27, 2011 - 10:20pm PT
|
Well dammit Russ, if you woulda said that 20 years ago I coulda drug you down here to see how far you get on the Woodson mantle circuit. We got em hard, but you have to know where to look.
But since I am old and feeble now I can only say "ok for you, mr. poopy pants"
|
|
dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
|
|
|
Mar 29, 2011 - 03:23pm PT
|
Anyone heading out to Woodson this week that would mind if I tagged along. I'd like to get to know the place better.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Mar 31, 2011 - 01:10am PT
|
I saw a baby rattlesnake in the middle of the road on Woodson the other day, and it brough the following to mind.
Rattlesnakes are more prevalent on the hill in the springtime, but thats not a cause for fear, just caution. Rattlesnakes want nothing to do with you, and are docile and quick to retreat when given the chance. If they know you are coming and have time to get away they will, so walk slowly with heavy steps, and keep your eyes on the ground in front of you when moving through snake territory. A startled snake often reacts by striking.
I cant count the number of rattlesnake encounters Ive had on Woodson, and never once did I feel like I was in danger of being attacked, because none of them were agitated. I either waited for them to slither away or changed course and went around them. Awareness is the key to safety. Here are some things to keep in mind:
 A coiled snake is an agitated snake and will strike. Rattlers can strike twice their body length from a coiled position, so give it wide berth. A snake that is laying with its body in tight "S" curves is also coiled.
Rattlers come in many colors and patterns, and blend into the surrounding terrain so well they can be nearly invisible. Any stick on the trail could be a snake, so stay alert.
Snakes that are laying in the sun or have just eaten are lethargic and arent going to move, so best to go around them.
Dont try to get a snake to move by throwing things at it or prodding it with a stick, stay a safe distance and stomp your feet.
A rattler only rattles when hes really pissed, so if you hear the rattle get out of that immediate area. Rattlers move unbelievably fast.
Dont kill rattlesnakes. Its their home and we are the intruders.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Mar 31, 2011 - 02:29am PT
|
I went up alone, late in the afternoon, to play with my new "toy", a #5 Camelot on Mother Superior. I set up a self belay on a fixed line and went to work figuring out gear placements for a future lead attempt on the lady. I really don't care what "style" I do the thing in I just want to be able to lead it clean someday. It's a bad problem for such an attempt for a fall will likely bounce you onto the slab behind you before sliding into the chasm below and loading your pro. Either way, it was fun to dog the problem and figure out the placements (knee abrasions and bruises included). The bottom forces you to ride the #5 along as you progress higher, as to avoid getting entangled in it. I found that getting past the said cam was a problem so by placing a #4 above, while in the second to the last knee pod, you can remove the #5 and drop it to the floor or attach it to the rope and let it slide to the bottom. You can ride the #4 up above the last knee pod, while you struggle to gain the hands section above. A #3 slots easily here while you gain a good stance out on the face out right. Getting kinda pumped at this point, I was able to slot a #5 HB nut perfectly into the seam between the two diagonaling ramps (a micro-cam would also work a bit lower but, to tell you the truth, this "old schooler" didn't even think of it at the time). This would be the last pro while you run it out to the top. I'm probably going to drop a long sling with a biner attached, from the TR anchors, to protect the top, this will keep you from decking onto the slab below.
Again, I'm just looking for a "variation on a theme", to add to the workout that MS already proposes. Maybe someday I'll get it! I wish I had more photogenic pictures but this is all I came up with...
|
|
Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
|
|
|
Mar 31, 2011 - 02:13pm PT
|
Thanks Gary for ruining my chance and anyone else reading this post of an onsite. I hate Beta. Fugure it out for yourself.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Mar 31, 2011 - 03:50pm PT
|
I hate to say it Johnny but that statement just sounded like some young kid concerned about himself, and status in life. Come on bro, go out and share some of that talent with the next generation.
Beta? It's a TR Johnny, and on that note, the anchors consist of two bolts wherewhich I used a long runner with two wired gate ovals and a locking carabiner (oops, sorry for the beta). Furthermore, little was mentioned about the moves and location of holds. Thirdly, the gear placements are a pretty standard affair for those versed on such, ie; those experienced enough to even be on this thing. Not too many people are going to onsight TR this, let alone, onsight lead it. It'll be a project just like most of the things you're working on up there. Heck, it's been soloed, so anything other is moot, according to "climbing ettiquette." And the day I ran into you with my little boy, working that face problem on a self belay, thanks for ruining my chance of an onsight. Maybe you should of stopped climbing so as to not have shared any beta with me (sounds pretty rediculous, eh?). Oh, and I did figure it out for myself and now I have to go back and be successful at it. I was just posting something to keep the thread alive. Go back to climbing and have fun, goodness gracious.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
Id say somebody needs a nap
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
no shit
|
|
Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
|
|
Just looking to get a rise out of Gary, mission acomplished. Seriously though, it seems like the old school ethics are gone. Most "new generation"" climbers care only about ticking off routes. I remember a young hotshot and his posse out at JT last winter. As he was getting ready to climb a boulder problem, he asked "How do you do this one?" A couple of his friends who had already worked out the Beta proceeded to not only describe every move but climbed it repeatedly in front of the hotshot who then "sent" it onsight.
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
Walking down from the summit yesterday evening, I heard some yelling in the bushes. I look over at bat flake and see some dude hoovering a foot off the ground. Apparently, he thought it was a good idea to lead the thing. Now there's a 2 foot chunk missing.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
Two foot chunk missing from the detached flake above?
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
Kinda like this response to a video I posted on youtube Johnny?:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D2shlymWFs0
"encinitasgrl (Sep 10, 2010)
Thanks soooo much for the beta. I was able to get this problem first try after seeing it done this way. Thanks for saving me a heck of a lot of time and frustration! :-)"
Sounds to me like a bit of appreciation and fun was had from this "beta" and that it was not all about her.
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
Yea Gary, two guys from Rubidough (sp?) broke the end of the flake right off. Luckily nobody got hurt.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
Kinda like this response to a video I posted on youtube Johnny?:
dude. posting vids of yourself on youtube is the ultimate lameness. get over yourself. you'll never go viral, just bacterial.
|
|
tarek
climber
berkeley
|
|
I read this thread for beta.
Seriously though, anyone who thinks that beta is "new school" or "poor ethics" is inventing fairy tales.
Guess what? You can (1) sometimes climb with beta (i.e., other people), and thereby learn to climb better, and (2) also go for onsights.
Do you wear a blindfold giving a spot, or belaying? Or just swear off ever doing those routes?
Would a frenchy who dogs and gleans every bit of beta possible 50% of the time, but then comes and onsights everything you've ever done count as someone with poor ethics? Dude, V12 slab went down in Fountainebleu in ca. 1994...you need someone to talk you down from that pedestal.
Damn, lit me up there, hero.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
Ahhh...Mr. VanBelle, by your response, I see you missed the point completely. Most of the other video's of different people at Santee Boulders and Woodson on Youtube....I encouraged most them to do the same, to post their videos for the same reason.
I'll have to go up and take a look for myself Doug for it sounds like an ugly sight. Bummer.
Thank God for the support Tarek...;-)
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
I don't think it's so much about, "ticking off routes" but that they just want to enjoy climbing, whether it's, figuring it out on their own, learning by watching others, taking/teaching a class or, watching a video...like what I've been doing for the last thirty years. Yeah, what Tarek said.
On the flip side Johnny, I was out at Santee a few years ago when I ran into a kid at the Twenty Point Boulder. After we greeted and shared a bit about each other, it was apparent that he wasn't one to accept any "beta" but instead said, "I want to figure it out on my own." I obliged and sat back to watch him. No sooner did he turn back to me and ask, "Where did you start this thing again?" I shrugged my shoulders.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
Did somebody say that beta was bad ethics? I didnt see that. People have different views on beta, some abhor it, some dont care, some solicit it. None of it is any skin off my back.
What I do not like is unwanted beta. Unsolicited beta may not have ethical implications, its just ovebearing and inconsiderate.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
This "beta" thing is getting way too complicated for me...anymore pictures out there? Anyone else see the broken Bat Flake yet? How about the manufactured route next to Jaws?
|
|
p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
|
|
i was right next to jaws yesterday. i didn't even look at it. It was awesome i raped don't rock the boat. ruff start fun rap.
|
|
tarek
climber
berkeley
|
|
What I do not like is unwanted beta. Unsolicited beta may not have ethical implications, its just ovebearing and inconsiderate.
100% agreed. And you can avoid reading/viewing photos.
But beta is probably as old as climbing. It has its place, as a learning tool. I've done robot-running beta ascents that left me "feeling" routes so much better than trial and error. Onsight still = the best style imo, but learning from others is key to me.
I loved the photo TR from Greg a while back (certainly had beta).
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2011 - 10:06pm PT
|
Yea Gary, two guys from Rubidough (sp?) broke the end of the flake right off. Luckily nobody got hurt.
Okay Doug, I guess I'll bite.
These two guys from that other place, did you actually talk to them to find out that's where they were from? Or is that detail perhaps, just by some remote chance, some kind of an "embellishment"?
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
Ahahahahaha....okay Darrell, I'll admit, I DID think of you and Johnny, but then again I said, "Naaaa, couldn't be, what would Darrell be doing that close to something wide?! Oh, that's right, belaying...you guys didn't do it did you (hehe)?
You know Darrell, the beginning of that thing has your name all over it, overhanging, tips laybacking in a corner, to bomber hands...classic!
|
|
Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
|
|
Maybe its just cynical old me, and I sure can't see the route from my house, but I can see the date that bat flake news was posted on.
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2011 - 11:44pm PT
|
I think Doug was looking for an excuse to flaunt his spelling skills.
Edit: Good catch Off White.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
Way to jump right in and misconstrue, X15. Theres a difference between saying "beta sucks" and "unwanted beta sucks", and can you guess what that difference is? Right! Theres an extra word in the second quote that changes the meaning to "beta that I didnt ask for".
I shamelessly, openly, and with full knowing consent, pump anybody who can help me for beta when I need it (read that carefully).
I just hate it when Im working a problem and some clown out of the blue starts yelling "left foot high, dude, then match". Everybody has their own thing. I will ask when I need directions.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
Ron, move your hands off the keyboard...No, wait! A little further away...yeah, that's it, now get out of your chair and step to the left, a little further...that's it! Now, keep walking, careful now, a bit more, yeah, now you got it. Now, DYNO! Did ya reach the bucket O' books you've been reading? I knew you would! That was a pretty cool bit of history you shared the last we talked.
|
|
Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
|
|
Gonamok, it's you again!!! Tough talk from someone who exposes rattlesnakes to anyone who will listen.
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
The Bat Flake post was an April Fools thing. I was hoping the Rubidoux comment would send out a red flag.
|
|
Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
|
|
Well yeah, those Rubberblow guys are alright, you can't be held responsible for an accident of birth.
Now why they still live near there is quite another thing...
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2011 - 02:07pm PT
|
Doug - there were some things that seemed amiss with your post. I had the definite feeling something was fishy but wasn't sure where you were going with it. I have to admit I was cautiously starting to take the bait to find out. Fortunately, Off White spooked me off so I didn't get completely reeled in. Good one. Suffice it to say I now owe you one - in spite of my inattentiveness.
Off White - Rubberblow? I don't believe I know where that is. Perhaps you meant Rubberduck or Rubberdick instead? Actually, I haven't lived close to the place for quite some time now. In spite of that it still serves a useful purpose for taking pot shots. (Disparage it all you like, it's still the standard for judgement.)
|
|
Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
|
|
Yah, just a token pose in the old so-cal rivalry game. Pointless knee jerk reaction anyway, as I've lived 900 miles away from there for a very long time now. Still, the nickname just popped into my head and I had to let it out, best to not let those things fester. You're never heard it before? I don't think I just made it up...
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
Was up at Woodson today and, "what to my wondering eyes did appear..."
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
Phantom, youre onto my game. If I ever see a real rattlesnake Im gonna pee my pants and scream like a little girl...kinda like when I try to climb cracks.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
I cut a trail last week to a little group of boulders I call the beans n franks, but I didnt get a good look at them until today, when I decided there was enough potential to warrant some brush removal. A brush eradication frenzy ensued and I cleared the whole area, then put up 2 problems that arent worth naming, but I did anyway. Asscrack is a beautiful 12 ft. tall 5.8 hand crack, and the wanker wall features face from 5.5 to 5.7. The cleaver climbs a dicey 5.3 arete to the crux, a 5.7+ roof move. (Yes, pity is appropriate here).
There are harder problems that I wont be doing, so after I finish the trailwork Ill post the location. Stay tunedthe glorious "asscrack" on the leftpotential face problemI like this one. It is really aesthetic and will probably be pretty hardthe wanker wallthe cleaver
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
The two headed man says Hi! from Mt Woodson
|
|
fresh pow
Boulder climber
phoenix
|
|
|
Apr 10, 2011 - 01:14am PT
|
I started climbing at Woodson I'n '86. This is the best topic going. Bump.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Apr 10, 2011 - 05:02am PT
|
Good year! Placed 5th in the Open Division at the bouldering contest!
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Apr 10, 2011 - 10:14am PT
|
Great Imagination Bump
"Young Guns" Mark and Doug prospecting.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Apr 10, 2011 - 09:51pm PT
|
<3 woodson.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Apr 11, 2011 - 01:58am PT
|
I have had this exploration bug for more than a month now, breaking brush to virgin boulders (i know this because the only way to access them is to cut a trail) to have a look-see. Im finding some good stuff, but my most recent foray turned up some classic short crack problems, among other things. This stuff was hacked out of dense brush and hasnt been climbed yet. This one is a roof move from full horizontal body position with good hand jams. Turning the lip will require a long stretch past the pinched off section to good finger locks.
Two views of a similar roof problem, starting fully laid out, but on finger locks instead of hand jams. There was even a 3rd roof crack problem in the area, as well as good face climbs and some overhanging jug problems.
When the trail is done Im gonna post this location too. I used to wait till I did all the problems I could manage before publicizing a new area, but since i cant crank the wayrads anymore, Im giving them away. Its so close to established stuff I cant believe it.
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
|
Apr 11, 2011 - 02:34pm PT
|
Those look sick Ron!!
|
|
Mark K
Social climber
San Marcos, California
|
|
|
Apr 11, 2011 - 03:52pm PT
|
Ron, I'd give my left nut to get on those things! They look so good!
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2011 - 02:10am PT
|
I'm tellin' ya, this is why my climbing career even existed, finds such as what Ron and others discovered. Then I, and most of the other climbers in the sport, get to enjoy the toils that somebody else put a HECK of a lot of time and effort establishing. Thank God for people like you Ron! I'd love to see the smiles that'll come to your face when the the "young guns" of the next generation get to be the first to crank off these gems! Sentimental value if you ask me. Cool stuff.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2011 - 03:40am PT
|
I just love to explore. People seem to be hungry for new routes, but most are trying to squeeze something out of rocks that have already been thoroughly examined. Why try to squeeze contrivances out of trampeled areas when a universe of untouched rock is sitting just outside the boundaries of development, in every direction?
Drivin south, robbins crack, digits delight, uncertainty principle, starface et al are not anomalies, they are typical. Lets throw out a number and say 10% of woodsons climbing potential has currently been tapped. That means for every climb now existing on the hill, another 9 like it are out there awaiting discovery. And I think thats a very conservative estimate.
But it doesnt come easy. If it did, everybody would have tons of FAs. You arent going to find classics while wandering around in your climbing shoes looking for things to pull down on. If you want to find new routes, you have to decide to spend the day exploring, not climbing. Pick out an objective, plot a likely line through the brush, then put on long pants, long sleeve shirt, gloves and boots and stomp, cut and fight your way out to it. 100 feet of bushwhacking and your looking at virgin rock. When you find that unclimbed plum, the fight will have been worth it. If youre looking for something new, give it a shot.
These people that are breaking flakes to make holds on climbed out boulders are totally lost, completely clueless.
|
|
p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2011 - 12:42am PT
|
where was everyone sat night? Full moon we headed up around 6:30. The rest the group showed up by 7:30. First we pulled on corn flak then a bouldering problem by Shawn,s knobs next we moved up Elsa,s crack and The cave. We then hiked to the peak and back do the cars. and home by 1am. Why is it know one climbs on a full moon?
|
|
eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2011 - 02:06am PT
|
Good stuff p-owed. I know some buddies were up there last month during the full moon. Don't know anyone that was up there last night though.
Ron, those pics look good. We've been speculating as to the location of those gems. Only lately have we really been embracing the trail building and boulder uncovering that will reveal some nice additions to the hill.
Speaking of uncovering boulders, anyone know the history behind the 25 foot overhanging dihedral below Elsa's Crack? We built a trail to it from Airplane Crack. It's got one old 3/8th in. bolt on top but it's missing its hanger. Everyone's probably seen it from the road as you're walking by the water tower. Looking up at it, it looks like a big Pac-Man boulder with a beautiful white dike running up it.
There is also a lead climb on the boulder below it and it'd be interesting to know the story with that one too. That boulder looks to be one of the biggest on the hill. The lead climb is a whopping 3-4 bolts. Need to get over and check that one out more closely though.
Maybe I'll get some pics to add so this thread will never die.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2011 - 02:33am PT
|
If you want to know where to find those rocks on my previous posts, ask Greg, I gave him the tour Friday afternoon. I didnt really get a chance to look around when I cut the trail, and was pleasantly surprised to find so much good climbing when I went back with Greg. We saw cool looking problems everywhere (he sent the cracks).
Greg worked on this overhang problem and dam near sent it, but had to quit when he tore a tip. I wasnt going to post it till he got the send, but he gave me the ok, so heres pics of a potential hard new problem.Greg Horvath on his project
|
|
eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2011 - 02:54am PT
|
Awesome! No doubt Greg's a beast and will send sooner rather than later. Plus if he couldn't do it in one session most will need a solid month of work on it. Cool pics of the problem.
I heard the crew was up there today too.
Supposedly they all almost did Piggot's "Fade to Black" tips seam problem!
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2011 - 11:57am PT
|
Yea, we climbed Sunday. I got Fade to Black. It's surprisingly better than it looks. Fun climbing and the rock behind the crack isn't really an issue. Then myself, Greg, Nicole, Mark, and Paisley sent this boulder problem up by Airstream (15 seconds from the road, but hidden behind a boulder). Pretty sure it hadn't been done as I removed some loose stuff when I first found it. V3 or so overhanging jugs on bullet rock...a little short though. Lastly, we tried our luck on the corner Eliot mentioned. Inspiring line, but very hard. Greg has the photos so hopefully he will chime in.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2011 - 08:35pm PT
|
eliot, doug...i dont know how much greg told you about the boulders surrounding that project, but there are cool looking problems everywhere. Need many hands stomping down the brush so these things are accessible. Its a 5 minute walk in from slant crack, and theres always a chance you can snake his problem too, whats not to love?
good job on fade to black doug
|
|
Horvath
Trad climber
CA
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2011 - 10:13pm PT
|
They just might!
I'll be taking them there soon, its too much fun out there to keep it quiet.
as for photos of this past weekend, they are actually on someone else's camera and may take a few days to surface.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2011 - 10:33pm PT
|
Darn it...I'm slowly falling out of the loop! Getting fat and still healing from this crazy tendonitis in my right arm...*sigh*.
Can't wait till I get back on Woodson rock! Wish I could have seen someone do Fade to Black, it'll definitely be cool to see pics! It looks like I need to be hangin' with Eliot, Greg, Doug, et al, if I'm lookin to get strong again. Did you guys ever find anything on that big cap-rock above 5.10a on the Outside?
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2011 - 11:30pm PT
|
Got the photos..There are more photos, but we can't give away too much...otherwise Eliot will flash a day's worth of problem solving
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2011 - 11:48pm PT
|
Gary, so far we've been on the project above 10a on the Outside once since Darrell helped us install an anchor (Thanks Darrell). Greg has done all the upper moves, but the five foot blank section isn't going to go very easily.
edit: Thanks Ron
|
|
Horvath
Trad climber
CA
|
|
|
Apr 19, 2011 - 12:34am PT
|
but the five foot blank section isn't going to go very easily.
It will go : )
but yes it will be difficult
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Apr 19, 2011 - 01:10am PT
|
gotta chime in here. the best, hardest unclimbed crack problem at woodson is this thing piggot and lydia took me to in '87. you go down to starface and head directly west. no trail. maybe ten minutes from starface. it's a 15' left-leaning dihedral tips crack in the back of an alcove formed by two boulders. it's INSANE. the best jams let you get maybe 1/3 of the first knuckle into the crack. bullet rock. mostly thumbs up pinkie jams with the right hand and absurd thumbs down with the left. i got SO close but no dice. piggot actually complimented me. how often does that happen?! wish i had a better description of how to get there but it was 25 years ago and i was only there three times, with piggot showing the way.
you guys should go find it. it'll blow your minds. the best woodson has to offer...
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
|
Apr 19, 2011 - 01:25am PT
|
yo BVB..so psyched!!!! Sounds absolutely beautiful!
Do you know anything about THE corner that you can see when walking up between the fire station and the water tower? (The perfect gray stone dihedral you always say to yourself how one day you'll go climb it). Well Eliot did one day go out to it and came back with horrific tales of tunneling under manzanita and through hives of ants. But he also said it was one of the coolest features at Woodson so we spent three days building a trail to it. I can not comprehend the difficulty, but I wouldn't be surprised if it was at least solid 5.14. It's super badass and the line inspires me to climb it, but it's just not a finger crack. Thanks for sharing!
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2011 - 11:20am PT
|
Yo bvb.
Now you've done it. My guess is the psychos will be thrashing through the manzanita this very afternoon in search of the elusive mother of all holy grail Woodson tips seams. I'd believe your story, but one thing makes me suspicious - a compliment from Rick? (joking) You must have been pulling down like a madman to get that. Actually, I also got one from Rick once. Swelled my head for like, oh, say a month or two? Those didn't come easy did they?
Maybe you oughta whip yourself into shape, jet out here, and send that thing yourself. Never too late bro. Even if you are getting older (pot calls kettle black.) Think young and hope the body parts hold up long enough to pull something off.
Speaking of the Starface area, I seem to recall some worthwhile looking new things down there. Probably need a bolt or two for anchors because some of the stuff was pretty big. Looked good though if I remember correctly.
"THE" Corner. Must be pretty good Doug - to have a working name like that.
Too bad Woodson is climbed out, eh?
Keep the pictures coming...
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Apr 19, 2011 - 11:50am PT
|
eliot, i don't think your link is the same thing i'm talking about because this thing is nowhere near fall semester, and it's not highball -- it's about as tall as california night -- maybe 15 - 18 feet with a perfect, flat landing.
yeah henny, getting any kind of compliment from rick was enough to fatten my head for months and motivate me to double my daily pull-up quota!
next time i'm in 'dago (memorial day weekend?) i'm gonna go looking for that thing, just to get a photo of it. it was beautiful on the very best rock woodson has to offer.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Apr 19, 2011 - 07:31pm PT
|
"Thanks for giving up the goods!"...
Now that's what I'm talkin' about, it ain't about "old guys" anymore (nor is it about the "punk" kids either, actually)!
I'd go out on a limb and say that these young guys would be in awe, with a gleam in their eyes, to meet Mr. Rick Piggot. Heck, even you Mr. Van Belle, and all the other Woodson "back-in-the-day" notables! This was, actually, something that I was shooting for at the 2010 Shindig but that really didn't materalize like I provisioned it.
Guys, please tell me you didn't forsake "Atom Ant" after cranking so hard on "Fade to Black"! Did you really forget that?! Have you even put your hands in it?
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Apr 19, 2011 - 07:44pm PT
|
Shoot, speaking of a "gleam in your eyes"...I got to experience that once, when Rick recruited me to go with him down to "Firefly" (my first time). It was a conversation-less experience with him throughout until he asked, "Are you through yet?" when I attempted to hangdog the problem on TR and get a second attempt! He had none of that and quickly gave me slack, lowering me to the ground.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Apr 20, 2011 - 02:39am PT
|
Dave Robinson wanted to put up a testpiece in some high traffic area so bad that he resorted to gluing a 4"x 8" flake in place to create "obsession" which he called 5.12c. I heard about his antics on a sunday, and monday after work me and Peter Campos stormed up the hill armed with a hammer and chisel, a pair of jumars and a piece of rope.
The cover story was that this flake was a natural feature of that rock, which Dave thoughtfully reinforced with glue "so some fat guy wouldnt pull it off". What we found was a piece of flake that in no way matched the rock, oozing with dried glue from all 4 sides, the top of which had been manicured into a perfect handrail. The worst glue job you can imagine.
I popped the thing off with one whack. A couple days later I was on the hill with Epps and we ran into Dave. I told him what I did and why, and that it was in everybodys interest that nothing like this should happen again because next time I would chisel his pinhead off as well.
He didnt take it well, but there was little he could do except whine, which he wisely did not. After I had my say I turned and continued up the hill, but not Greg. I was several switchbacks above and could still hear him telling Dave "You F*ed with the rock! NEVER f with the rock!!"
The next weekend I was standing by painted when Rick Piggot came around the corner headed down. He broke into a huge grin when he saw me, and he didnt even break stride when he passed me, just stuck out his hand and gave me a resounding high five, grin still plastered on his face.
Thats the best atta boy Ive ever gotten from Rick, and I must say, I felt good for a week.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Apr 20, 2011 - 03:16am PT
|
Well, since we're on the "Rick" subject, I may as well re-tell a story involving the "Man"...
On more than one instance when I was up on the hill with friends, this particular time below "Go With The Flow," Rick would show up. He sat quietly behind us while he shoed up then stepped forward when there was a pause in our activity on the route. Rick gently grabbed the two strands of rope hanging from the TR anchors, met eyes with one of us, handed them off to the same, out of the way of the climb, and would begin his preclimb ritual. Leaning his head back, looking up at the line above, he would shake his long, kinky, full mane of hair back, methodically dipping his hands back and forth until fully white with chalk, and absorb a half minute or so more of Scorpions, "Here I am, rock you like a hurricane!" frying out of his headphones, so loud that even I could hear the words clearly, eight feet away! He then started his way up the face, hesitating briefly at the crux twenty feet up, then top out, down climb, gather his stuff and disappear back up to the road.
I first witnessed Rick do this on IHMT and also on Werner's Wish and Driving South.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Apr 20, 2011 - 06:22am PT
|
classic piggot. one of a kind. the best.
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2011 - 12:21pm PT
|
I like this subject.
The man in black. Rick always seemed to be dressed in black, gotta say, it lent to his aura.
Rick was (and I'm sure still is, no matter what he's currently into) one intense dude. Way fun, as long as you didn't mind having someone only say a few words to you the entire day. A man of few words in my experience, but that just made his words more meaningful.
Bedford and I did a fair amount of climbing with Rick in the Owens River Gorge. I remember one day we were doing the Enterprise and Rick went first. He completely skipped all the bolts under the roof (can you say guaranteed groundfall off the crux) because he didn't want to be bothered stopping to clip. Donny and I were like..., dude!! All Rick had to say was, "If you fall off there, you deserve whatever happens to you." Right. Needless to say Donny and I still clipped everything in sight when we went. I heard an eye-witness story recently about Rick grounding on an Undertow lead, and also heard the eye-witness story of the PhD grounder. Seems to show a go-for-it mindset, eh?
Rick was living in Truckee around the time Donny and I were doing ORG routes with him and was also doing a lot at Cave Rock. When I last saw him he had led every route there but one. I later heard that he had done his last remaining route.
Bad-ass dude. Cool dude.
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2011 - 01:07pm PT
|
ok, so I really like this subject. Hopefully we're not boring the current crop of young guns to tears with our BITD old fart stories...
Ron, where was the "obsession" glue on? I seem to recall hearing that it was Ricks problem left of the Cave gig, the "Anti-social". Is there some correlation? Regardless, I thought the Anti-social was super good. I think it goes by another name also? Given Donny's story about how it came to be called the Anti-social it has to be that name for me. Donny hasn't posted for some time, or I'd let him tell the story since he was there. Maybe I'll wait and see if Donny chimes in, otherwise I'll try to relate it best I can. Classic Piggot.
Interesting how certain people stand out for various reasons. Every generation has them, and will continue to. Rick was certainly one of them from my generation - whatever/whenever that was (sigh). The stuff stories end up being told about forever by those who were lucky enough to be there. I think I see the current Woodson gen producing it's own Piggot, similar in some ways, time will tell the story. (sticks and stones, pins and needles will not extract a name from me - ha.)
More Piggot stories please.
|
|
Horvath
Trad climber
CA
|
|
|
Apr 20, 2011 - 02:50pm PT
|
boring us! hells no- keep the stories coming!
and Gary, I couldn't talk anyone else into doing it, but I gave Atom Ant a quick lap and it was fun, though could use more ascents/cleaning.
and, yes, I believe Mark will be at Woodson this afternoon looking for that tips crack, and we are already forming a trail crew! : )
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2011 - 04:01pm PT
|
Make sure a really, really good trail is cut. If bvb is planning to look for that mythical tips seam the next time he's in the area, and the approach is pure manzanita, and it's late May hot, and he doesn't remember the location... Well, I damn near died just going down to and up from StarSlab, er StarTwinkle, StarGem?, or whatever that stupid thing is called, in cool weather... If we let bvb try it in hot weather with the manzanita still in place (ala, approaching THE Corner) we'll have to send a crew later to collect the bones.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Apr 20, 2011 - 04:48pm PT
|
Yep, Daves travesty was left of cave climb. A big splotch of dried glue was left on the rock for years after that hold was removed, it may have weathered off by now.
Both Greg and I told Dave that he needed to remove the glue mess he left on the rock, but as you can imagine, responsibility was not one of the young mans strong suits. Not long after that, Dave left for greener pastures, ie: the anything-goes, see and be seen fishbowl type sport climbing areas that better suited his ambitions.
On Anti Social, I dont know. The line that Dave glued up was widely considered a legit project in its natural state, albeit a desperate one, so obsession and anti social may be the same line.
Dave could have probably climbed the route without the glue-job had he applied himself and put the time in. Instead he earned himself infamy with a rash, hasty and ill conceived act.
If you want it bad, you will get it bad.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Apr 20, 2011 - 04:56pm PT
|
little bit more recollection on that tips crack. it's in a little closed corridor formed by three boulders. perfectly flat landing. the opening to the corridor faces south, towards the highway. the crack is in the back of the corridor on the left side. it is a bit overhanging and leans to the left.
might take some hunting and pecking to find it, but believe me you'll know it when you see it.
wish i had a photo...
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2011 - 04:58pm PT
|
Regardless, I thought the Anti-social was super good.
Better clarify that. Super good without the glue hold. As the Anti-social, not as the travesty. Don't remember if I saw the post removal spot or not, but I'm sure Donny would have pointed it out to me.
Edit: They have to be the same problem. One is legit, one isn't. Pick one.
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2011 - 06:37pm PT
|
"pecking"
Really?
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2011 - 03:51am PT
|
sure, i have always called plowing through brush so stiff it tears flesh from the bone "pecking"
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2011 - 10:36pm PT
|
Bump for the weekend! Post up what ya'll are doing on the hill to keep this thread alive
|
|
Mark K
Social climber
San Marcos, California
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2011 - 03:42am PT
|
Headed up the hill after class this afternoon with Lauren and Doug. We met Adam and Stephen up at Robbin's. Adam led it, pretty cool for a first trad lead (even if it involves only one piece of gear). We ran a few laps to warm up.
I threw a rope up on Lie Detector as I had never gotten it before. Having worked it previously with little luck and not really feeling on my game recently, I wasn't feeling too confident. Doug ran a quick lap before I got on; he made it look pretty trivial, so I had hope. That quickly faded when I got on and quickly failed. I worked it a bit and pulled most of the moves, but I definitely wasn't feeling it. In all honesty, I was kind of being a bitch, complaining about my skin, conditions, etc. Doug wasn't having it; he psyched me up, ran another lap, then I hopped on and sent. Definitely surprised myself, I was psyched. Doug was too, so he ran another lap. After round three, he said he was finally warmed up.
We went up to Jaws next, Lauren's current project. She almost sent first go, but kind of lost psyche after that (it was getting cold and foggy). She was bummed, but I thought it was pretty impressive for someone with a broken talus. We ran around, did Baby Robbins, corn flake, then finished the day down at TV screen. All in all, a pretty awesome day up on the hill (especially considering both Doug and I had midterms this morning). Pictures to come.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2011 - 04:20am PT
|
if anyone goes looking for that tips crack this weekend, and finds it, for chrissake, take pics of it.
i'll be in san diego for four days over memorial day. i'm like a 5.9 climber right now but i'd love to hack around, maybe do some easy slabs, and give my camera a good workout. who's gonna be around?
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2011 - 09:40am PT
|
I'll be your 5.9 partner Bob.
I'm getting pretty close 5.8c/d
|
|
Captain...or Skully
climber
My ready room
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2011 - 09:47am PT
|
Haha! 5.8c/d. That's Gold, right there. Gold.
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2011 - 10:18am PT
|
OT But, way to send "High Plains Drifter" Mark K.!
Way too cool!
|
|
frog-e
Trad climber
Imperial Beach California
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2011 - 12:10pm PT
|
bvb,
I might be able to drive out there and hike around with you sometime
Memorial day weekend. I cannot really climb, but can hike a little,
Post surgery.
I have a tripod, a camera with a descent zoom, and have not seen
Many of these climbs you mention, nor have even laid eye's on
Undertow, and other fabled gems.
Feel free to fire me an email.
And remember bvb, I pack a mean bowl so be ready to get baked good!
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2011 - 10:09pm PT
|
Hey bob, what you need is an old fat guy to climb with, somebody so pathetic he makes you look good. That would be me. Give me a call when you get in town and Ill meet you on the hill. I am also willing to rent floorspace in my house at a reasonable rate if you have nowhere to stay.
Im there for ya, buddy.
Ill be around the whole weekend, so give me a call.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2011 - 01:18am PT
|
we're on ron. climbing with you has always made me look sw0le, even 30 years ago. some things never change.
PM me your digits...cell phone died and I lost my directory. got a new cell today...LG's version of the iphone. f*#king thing is a cray. w00t w00t!
so anybody find that thin crack yet?? DON'T make me come out there and KICK your ASSES!11!11!
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2011 - 02:32am PT
|
BVB dude,
Cruised up to Woodson later this afternoon with Mark and Lauren. After doing a couple climbs I ventured off to search for the tips crack. Not knowing what boulder to shwack to I circled Starface a few times trying to find the path of least resistance (relative term). Without any good options I dove in to the most heinous shwacking I have ever experienced. I tried to boulder hop, but quickly realized that I had to battle in the trenches because peering through the canopy revealed 20 foot drops to the leafy floor. The effort was pretty dismal really since I was just going off of the beta of 10 minutes west of starface, but I pressed on psyched on what the next turn would reveal. At one point I was walking around a boulder when the manzanita closed in forcing me to tunnel/chimney underneath the cap rocked boulder. On the other side, manzanita closed in and I smelt the smelly smell of Ants. I had run out of light as well so I reversed my steps with no Holy Grail in sight. Going back tomorrow with Eliot.
|
|
frog-e
Trad climber
Imperial Beach California
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2011 - 09:58am PT
|
Alright - bvb has a partner, hate to think of him wndering alone @ woodson :-)
Cool, now, about additional woodson "guidebook" or topo information, and the
Means to compile it.
My thoughts are to start with images taken from google earth of Mt. Woodson.
Find and index all the boulders, and boulder clusters, using arrows, dots, and
Numbered circles, etc. Draw these onto the woodson images w/ illustrator
(Or similar)
Take care to pick the right angles in google earth, so the climber can relate to
The topography, based on the map. 4 views of woodson? More?
For many boulder clusters, etc, knowing the right place to leave the road is key,
Images of these places keyed to the various boulders and boulder groups is
Needed.
Mapping the general and specific trails on google earth images would - it seems -
Help a lot.
FYI I still plan to make a topo of some additional climbing otherwise
Undocumented in SE SDC, and will be using google earth images as a
Foundation.
This summer will be anice time to hike around and compile additional images
On a consumate trip down "memory lane".
Have fun everyone - I will be back to give henny a hard time. :-)
Ray
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Apr 25, 2011 - 12:13am PT
|
Update on my giant trail project. It starts at masters of the universe and links up with the pipeline trail fairly low on the southern escarpment and turns west. When you are almost below ricks ramp the trail turns uphill (north) toward the playground, and turns east at the first rock band. This is where the good stuff is. If you continue east the trail spits you out at slant crack.
Theres good stuff down low by the pipeline, but what was needed was an outlet on the west end of the trail, in the playground, and I cut that link through today. Its a trail through all new boulders that runs from the playground to the tv screen. Lots of climbing everywhere you look. Check it out.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Apr 25, 2011 - 12:31am PT
|
heres the upper section, from low playground to slant crack
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2011 - 01:59am PT
|
How interesting - nobody has posted a picture of Loch Nessie yet, er, I mean the tips seam by Starface. Good luck with that one. Needless to say, any claims of a sighting are going to need to be substantiated with pictures.
And no, a Google overview with an arrow pointing at some random pile of boulders isn't going to be acceptable.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Apr 25, 2011 - 11:46am PT
|
OK, had a memory flash -- an epiphany, even -- last night. It's entirely possible that piggot took me to that tips crack by striking out west past rockwork orange. Having dredged the polluted river of my memory repeatedly, I don't remember the approach being all that heinous, by Woodson standards. One of my missions over Memorial Day is going to be to find it -- but hopefully someone will beat me to the punch. I'd rather spend my time crushing the 5.8+ circuit with Ron and Rick and Jeff and anyone else eager to observe just how far I've fallen...
|
|
Adam Mashouri
Trad climber
Encinitas, CA
|
|
|
Apr 25, 2011 - 02:30pm PT
|
My buddy Stephen and I went up the hill on 4/22/11 and met up with Mark, Lauren and Doug. We climbed Robbins (my first Traditional lead, although I only placed 1 piece) and then switched over to Lie Detector. After a successful go by Doug, mark was inspired and sent as well. We then headed off to Jaws area, where Lauren came so close to sending Jaws. Here are a few fun pictures I managed to shoot off. enjoy
First trad lead :)
Stephen roping up
Failed attempt leads to some crack climbing 101 by some young guns
Dougs send sequence on Lie Detector
lauren starting Lie Detector, I didnt finish up with her top sequence (I get lazy :/)
Mark K sequence of Lie Detector
Lauren M sequence of Jaws
Dougs sweet shoes
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Apr 25, 2011 - 03:10pm PT
|
no photos showing, babe. repost.
|
|
BeeHay
Trad climber
San Diego CA
|
|
|
Apr 25, 2011 - 04:09pm PT
|
Oh, thought he said 69 partner...must've been mislead by the handle "deepnet".
BH
|
|
Adam Mashouri
Trad climber
Encinitas, CA
|
|
|
Apr 25, 2011 - 04:34pm PT
|
The photos came out pixelated, I will shrink them down next time. The compression of the photos on this site pixelates them :/
|
|
Adam Mashouri
Trad climber
Encinitas, CA
|
|
|
Apr 25, 2011 - 04:53pm PT
|
nay, thats where the trouble starts. when the next dialogue box opens, it gives me the option of step 2. open a file. when I follow the links all the way to selected photo and click open, Im redirected back to the dialogue box of step 2. I'm sure I'll figure it out soon. thank you for the help
Edit: I just manually uploaded it to my profile and I'm in the process of uploading them to the thread now
PICS UP AT ORIGINAL POST ^^^^^
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Apr 25, 2011 - 09:27pm PT
|
Way to go on your lead, Adam.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Apr 25, 2011 - 09:32pm PT
|
P-owed, nice meeting you on the hill saturday, especially in the middle of my new trail. I went back sunday and saw all the clearing work you guys did, thats way cool - thanks for the help. You wont recognize the west side of split rock now, all that stuff that was pressing against the face is gone.
|
|
p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
|
|
|
Apr 25, 2011 - 10:10pm PT
|
gonamok IT was good to meet you to! I'm going to head back up to that trail and try to get to some other rocks I was checking out Thanks for taking your time to show us around some.
|
|
Horvath
Trad climber
CA
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2011 - 12:09am PT
|
Nice work on the trail Ron!
Let me second the fact that there are lots of fresh boulders in the lower playground area that Ron has developed. Seriously! lots of new stuff for people to get on-I highly recommend it for anyone!
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2011 - 01:02am PT
|
lockless monster?
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2011 - 01:39am PT
|
Excellent!!!
bvb is vindicated. (I assume that's it - looks like the description)
Both are good names. (lochless vs lockless?)
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2011 - 01:45am PT
|
That's a hand for scale, right?
|
|
eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2011 - 02:19am PT
|
That's Doug's hand reaching above the bushes for reference. It's tall and steep and hard!
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2011 - 02:32am PT
|
Yeah, my first thought was that it looked kind of tall, then seeing the hand confirmed that. So attempts were made on it?
Was the approach from Starface or Rockwork Orange?
Still waiting on confirmation from bvb I guess. That looks a little taller than he seemed to be remembering. Regardless, looks like a great one.
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2011 - 02:59am PT
|
Yep, that'd be me standing at the base. I wouldn't exactly describe it as not highball...it'd be a similar picture with body parts all over place if you were sans rope and blew it on any of the upper moves. An onsight (no experience/beta) would be so BOLD. BVB, were you guys planning on bouldering it out?
We approached from Starface. We set up a TR (the rope hangs in space) and traded attempts. Super steep, leans a ton, and the few feet are small and in hard to use locations. The best beta we came up with is a mono ring finger jam with middle finger stacked on top. (think the first jam on Hear My Train, but not as good and without the feet) Basically it's super bad ass!!
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2011 - 03:04am PT
|
that is most definately it. where did you find it?!
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2011 - 03:05am PT
|
Oh, and "lockless monster" was just a play on words on your Loch Ness Monster comment (although I do kinda like it). I went with "lock" because it seemed appropriate. And "monster" cause it ripped a huge chunk out of my finger. BVB, did you guys have a name for it?
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2011 - 03:08am PT
|
you were right on. 10 minutes west of starface, no trail.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2011 - 03:10am PT
|
no name. just....that...f*#king...finger-ripping...crack. i got about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way up it, if memory serves. don't remember getting any monster gobis but you know how those 25 year old memories are: euphoric recall.
too bad we can't get piggot in on this.
So attempts were made on it?
several forays, henny. this was right before joc and i moved to yosemite so it did not become the righteous project that it deserved to be. don't know if piggot ever went back, or if he ever took anyone else there, because since i was going there (in late 86 - early 87), i've never heard anyone whisper a word about the thing. it's been patiently waiting for some mutant to git' er done.
is the landing as flat as i remembered? the ground sort of tiled with bits of exfoliated flakes?
vauge memory of going there with epi once. we'll have to ask him if he recognizes it.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2011 - 03:29am PT
|
things are coming back now. hey doug, would a cheatstone make the first move dramatically easier and actually get you established on the thing?
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2011 - 03:56am PT
|
Check out these kids banging thru the brush! Im impressed! Finally some climbers who aint afraid of gettin stickers in their sox.
Keep up the good work lads
On that crack thing, find me an 18 foot tall cheater stone and i just might tick that puppy off
|
|
eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2011 - 04:21am PT
|
This thing would be a bold solo, but doable. The ground is tiered with some exposed boulders. If you came off the top you'd hit a big one. There were some plants growing around the base that we had to remove.
One of the cool things is that the crux is low. It's pretty much the very first move with each consecutive move easing up ever so slightly. So in that respect it could be highballed as long as you kept it together after pulling the crux. A cheat stone would help a lot and allow someone to get established on the climb.
Oh and the rock is bullet.
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2011 - 11:21am PT
|
How cool is that, bvb?
I caught your play on words Doug. Seems like a pretty good name to me also, given the thread flow. Whatever it ends up being I'm sure a good name will be picked. The brush looks pretty dense.
Wow bvb, that's a razor sharp memory you have there - hehe. Pretty cool.
Now get 'er done... Pictures are still mandatory of course.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2011 - 12:00pm PT
|
Wow bvb, that's a razor sharp memory you have there
well darrel, it comes and goes. every now and then i'll get vapor lock and walk into a room in my house, forgetting why i went there or what i was looking for. given the pickleing my brain has endured over the last four years, i should be grateful that occasional "senior moments" are all i have to endure.
but for some reason, i can still achieve instant, high-definition recall on every minor detail of every climbing outing i ever went on, going back to 1973. go figure.
hey eliot, how tall are you? i seem to remember being able to do a bounce move past that first jam and stabbing my left, thumbs down, into where the crack opens up. thought i might have used a small cheatstone as well but upon reflection there was no way -- piggot would not have tolerated it, especially when he was showing me one of his finds!
you wanna get this jam right hand, thumbs up, then stab up to where the crack opens up into a shallow but jammable slot, like 2 - 3 feet up.
|
|
Adam Mashouri
Trad climber
Encinitas, CA
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2011 - 12:50pm PT
|
Gonamok- Thank you for the kind words! I cannot wait to expand my trad leading repertoire.
Greg, Eliot, Doug- Heck yes on finding the elusive tips crack! I like the name too! let me know if you all need a couple of photographs, and i'll be there.
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2011 - 02:00pm PT
|
That's exactly the beta we came up with. That next pod is pretty far (and freakin small) to stab to. It's funny, Eliot and I were wondering how tall you guys are. The most doable beta for me feels like I need to start with the jam and a dime sized gaston for the left, then lock the jam off to my hip and rock over a high step edge with my left, then go up to the second pod. It'll be a couple days, but can't wait to get back on it.
And I guess the thing about highballing is that although the crux is low, it's in your face the whole way. You get locks up high, but you only get an edge for your left foot every 2 or 3 locks (and the crack is so thin and leaning that you don't get much opportunity to jam your foot). So you just kinda have to smear your feet (on an overhanging wall), lock off, and stab for locks. Doable, but I don't plan on a boulder lap anytime soon
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2011 - 02:15pm PT
|
git 'er done, son. i'd love to go down there with you guys over memorial day...to, er, take photos.
rick and i are both in the 6' 2" range, and i have a +3 ape index...lets me reach through an awful lot of cruxes!
|
|
eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2011 - 04:21pm PT
|
I'm 5'10" with a negative 1" ape. Doug's shorter than me though.
That's really cool we came up with the same beta. We were wondering how you guys were doing it. We tried nearly all combinations of starting moves and eventually decided that was the best (with the right hand thumb up). I have a feeling that even after sticking the left hand thumbs down the next move is still going to be just as hard...we should get back out there soon and report back.
BVB, it'd be great to hook up and head over to it with you. In the meantime we'll try to post more crappy photos.
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2011 - 04:30pm PT
|
Now we're talking, those are the pictures we want. And of course the running status on progress.
(I'm - paraphrased) in the 6' 2" range, and i have a +3 ape index...lets me reach through an awful lot of cruxes!
Nice. Not.
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
|
Apr 27, 2011 - 01:04am PT
|
I think I'm about 5'8" with a +1 or so. Would love to meet up with you BVB. Shout when you're down here.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Apr 27, 2011 - 01:37am PT
|
Im 5-8 and my arms become shorter and weaker every day, to the point where I no longer register on the ape index. I am, however, a -5 on the penguin index.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Apr 27, 2011 - 11:47am PT
|
pretty sure this move and the next are the crux. crack opens up a bit after that. yes? no? it's been a long time...
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
|
Apr 28, 2011 - 12:08am PT
|
I think my right hand is in the first sinker lock
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Apr 28, 2011 - 12:43am PT
|
The boulders of the southern playground continue to amaze me. The rock quality is superb, and there are big juicy plums everywhere waiting to be picked. I added a link from split rock down to 49th street, a clean as a whistle face with lots of climbs in the V1-3 range. Way cleaner and better quality than I remembered, well worth a visit.
To get into the southern playground, either take the trail uphill from slant crack, or start in the playground and go east from syncopation, past a 12 foot tall gumdrop called the mantle pill (think you can mantle? the mantle pill will set you straight). You cant miss the trail.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Apr 28, 2011 - 04:34am PT
|
"OK, had a memory flash -- an epiphany, even -- last night. It's entirely possible that piggot took me to that tips crack by striking out west past rockwork orange."
Okay, I'm a bit confused now...Bob originally thought it was near Starface then he had an "epiphany" (see above) that it was west of Rockwork Orange. Then Doug says that Bob was "right on the money" that it was "10 minutes west of Starface." So, where is this thing?
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Apr 28, 2011 - 11:49am PT
|
gary, you're always confused.
reading comprehension, pal. learn it, know it, love it.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Apr 28, 2011 - 02:14pm PT
|
Robert, Robert, Robert...come on, help this "confused" guy out...west of Starface or west of Rockwork Orange?
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Apr 28, 2011 - 02:34pm PT
|
my god. gary, you're the only person reading this topic who simply cannot sort things out. put down the crack pipe, bro.
here's a hint, because it pains me to deprive the developmentally disabled of assistance. so, check out the posts dated 4/26/11 at 12:04am, and 4/26/11 at 12:08am.
if you still can't answer your own question, might i suggest a language tutor. or at least paying closer attention.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Apr 28, 2011 - 06:05pm PT
|
Ok Robert, just scrolled back and re-read the thread from the first mention of said problem. Ten minutes west of Starface it is. Your "epiphany" and then Doug's confirmation threw me. Thanks for your patience.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Apr 28, 2011 - 06:28pm PT
|
Note to self: don't use big words like "epiphany" in threads Gary might read.
<end transmission>
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Apr 28, 2011 - 07:29pm PT
|
BVB b.i.t.d. Lycra era
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Apr 28, 2011 - 10:59pm PT
|
Looks about right to me, Rick. That Tranny is sw0le!
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Apr 28, 2011 - 11:03pm PT
|
and for those who luv the wyde, don't neglect to note that overhanging bomb-bay chimmney to squeeze to off-width to fist in the back there...piggot and i always meant to try it but always wound up blowing our wads on the seamrippper thin crack. lockless monster. spot-on name. i like that.
|
|
Mark K
Social climber
San Marcos, California
|
|
|
Apr 28, 2011 - 11:24pm PT
|
don't neglect to note that overhanging bomb-bay chimmney to squeeze to off-width to fist in the back there
Greg...
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Apr 29, 2011 - 01:22am PT
|
sinker lock
"sinker". heh, that's a good one. i like your attitude doug!
|
|
p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
|
|
|
Apr 29, 2011 - 02:16am PT
|
Anyone seen a wild pig in San Diego they say they are near eagle peck?
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
|
Apr 29, 2011 - 02:29am PT
|
We did see the bombay; but I mean, come on, OW vs. finger crack!?
It really does look good though (and probably quite hard). Greg, you would be the man (beast?) for the job.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Apr 30, 2011 - 12:28am PT
|
A woman driving a pickup hit two feral hogs that ran onto poway road, near the junction with hwy 67. She said she got out to look and they both got up and ran off. She was quoted as saying that she lives on a ranch and knows hogs, and that they were both at least 300 lbs. (from SD union tribune).
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
|
Apr 30, 2011 - 01:34am PT
|
Day 2 progress report:
The first move is hard. The second move - haven't gotten there yet.
Lock Less Monster is really ridiculous. To give some context, earlier this year, on my first TR lap, I did all the moves of Stingray (13d/14a). Same trip, Eliot nearly redpointed (lead) Astroid Crack (12d/13a). Woodson cracks aren't routes at JTree so it's hard to compare, but basically you were right BVB, this is INSANE! No doubt this thing's 12+/13a
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Apr 30, 2011 - 01:50am PT
|
you're right. woodson cracks, especially thin cracks, are mutant. basically ungradable. and that rig is the most mutant seam ripper i ever tried at woodson.
it's gonna be a sw0le tick.
p.s. i'll be in san diego for five days next weekend.
|
|
eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Apr 30, 2011 - 02:12am PT
|
I just called the Huber bros. and my buddy TC (Tommy Caldwell) to come try to free the thing. Who knows if they'll succeed though...
Honestly though that first move is frickin' heinous. It'd be great to get some input when you're down here.
After two days and about 10 tries it goes...
Right hand-pinkie down in first pod.
Left hand-gaston edge.
step right foot on to one of two tiny edges
pull up
fall off
Of course I might just get my girlfriend to send it since she's more sw0le than both of us...
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Apr 30, 2011 - 02:22am PT
|
I can't help to think of Chris Lindner on this thing...maybe I'm just a little bias but that kid did some amazing things last year at Woodson...then again, I've never seen Chris, or anyone else, climb at that level before! Did you guys ever try the sit start to IHMT?
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
|
Apr 30, 2011 - 02:34am PT
|
Cool BVB, we'll have to meet up. Hopefully we'll have the crack wired by then. (hehe) But seriously, it's cool to have a project up there that takes more than a day to get. No doubt in my mind that we will send it. Until then, it's very cool to be working something that picks up where the last crack gurus left off.
|
|
eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Apr 30, 2011 - 02:41am PT
|
The sit start to HMT, c'mon Gary I did that BITD.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Apr 30, 2011 - 02:54am PT
|
Haha, now I know you're lyin' for you weren't even born, B.I.T.D.! Seriously, ever try it Eliot?
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Apr 30, 2011 - 05:14am PT
|
Speaking of "seams"...I know someone that has a serious eye on another undone "rig"!
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Apr 30, 2011 - 08:44am PT
|
I can't help to think of Chris Lindner on this thing
Fetish Alert, fanboy.
EDIT: This thread is in dire need of some red hot smokin', (c)bone-crushing, palm sweating, finger-ripping ACTION PIKS!
bring the camera next time, boyz. and someone to use it. get up on top of that boulder across from the crack for the proper "epi" angle.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Apr 30, 2011 - 11:41pm PT
|
Chris is a very good climber, but where cracks are concerned he isnt even in the same league as Michael Paul was in his prime. Few, if any were. When I see some hideous crack, I think MP.
Wouldnt ya say bob?
next weekend? i thot it was memorial day weekend. Im emailing you my number beezer, call me.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
Just got off the phone...that OW has already been done. Not sure of the rating but "it's called the Mosh Pit and it's not that hard, probably 11+ (I hate it when they say that!). When I saw the finger crack, it looked to me to be a pin scarred seam that somebody hammered out for practice or something," according to my source. This finger crack was shown by Piggot to others as well as you Bob. Troy Wold of Ramona first told me of Piggot showing him the Mosh Pit, and finger crack, b.i.t.d., but I had no idea these were the same rigs until tonights phone call. Either way, the finger crack still appears to be up for grabs. Sounds out of my league that's for sure!
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
Chris is a very good climber, but where cracks are concerned he isnt even in the same league as Michael Paul was in his prime. Few, if any were. When I see some hideous crack, I think MP.
Wouldnt ya say bob?
next weekend? i thot it was memorial day weekend. Im emailing you my number beezer, call me.
You nailed it Ron, as I've written on this forum before, it is my belief the Vawto, in his prime, which went on for many years, was a peerless thin crack climber. He didn't do 'em all -- because there were so many you had to pick and choose -- but if he put any particular crack in his gunsights, it was just a matter of time. He sent.
My big claim to fame? I beat him at arm wrestling at a bongloading session in '77. so sw0le!
In any event, yep, I'll be in 'dago from next friday till next wednesday. Then i'll be back for memorial day. double dip dago vacations, ftw!
Talked with Rick tonight, thinking Santee on Saturday. Got my project goal identified: BLACK DOT PROBLEM. Oh, so sent!
|
|
Nicole Grider
climber
|
|
Eliot, Doug, Paisely, and I went up there for a half day and got this picture, entering through the fire station road.
We went to American (Fallen) Gypsy. Good stuff!
Eliot says that next time he'll bring the camera to the project
|
|
eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
|
|
Although the pic of the "Sand Bag" sign may look staged. It is purely a hilarious coincidence. The fire-station sells sand bags for use in Poway and the arrow points straight up to Woodson. HA!
Who knows what climb this is?
|
|
Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
|
|
Doug, Nico, and Eliot, let me know next time you go play out at Woodson. I'd like to start getting in more Woodson sessions. Maybe after work mid week sometime? I've also been around on the weekends more often these days...
Josh
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
Just got off the phone...that OW has already been done. Not sure of the rating but "it's called the Mosh Pit and it's not that hard, probably 11+ (I hate it when they say that!). When I saw the finger crack, it looked to me to be a pin scarred seam that somebody hammered out for practice or something," according to my source. This finger crack was shown by Piggot to others as well as you Bob. Troy Wold of Ramona first told me of Piggot showing him the Mosh Pit, and finger crack, b.i.t.d., but I had no idea these were the same rigs until tonights phone call.
dude. you are so contrived and obvious that it's a wonder you don't get sprains when you post.
self-awareness dab.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
So, what's the "obvious" part of this post Bob?
C. Lindner's in the house and is curious to see this new "project." Next Saturday/Sunday is good for him. He's still trying to heal up from tendonitis in his left arm but is up for a stroll up the mountain to check it out. You mind if we hook up with you, et al, Bob?
Cool pic Eliot...can't say I recognize it.
|
|
eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
|
|
Gary, how did Chris become aware of the project? Did you call him and tell him? Does he follow this thread?
If you told him about it, why would you do that when it is clear others are working on it? Seems kinda ridiculous to me. Do you just want some glory by showing it to him? And perhaps then he could send it "thanks to you."
"I can only imagine Chris on it..."
Of course Chris can do it and of course it would probably be relatively easy for him. He's a 5.14 climber. What would it matter if he came up the hill and hiked it first try? What would that prove? Why would that matter?
Why not let people try the thing who actually climb at Woodson four to five times a week. People who go up there nearly every weekend and who actually love and respect the place (Not to say that Chris doesn't love and respect the place. I realize he's climbed there for longer than me).
If Chris wants projects on Woodson there are plenty for him. There are projects all over the hill that you, Gary, have never seen before. In fact, the last time I climbed with Chris on the hill I did show him some climbs he had never done. (Or maybe he didn't remember doing them.) If he wants some new stuff let some people show him that know the hill. Not someone who seems to be only self-serving in their manners and actions.
Edit: Sorry for the semi-rant but something struck a chord with me that I couldn't let go.
Double Edit: I have nothing against Chris personally. I've met him many times and he's always been super cool. We have many mutual friends as well. I'm just arguing that the people who have been the most active on the hill recently get a shot at sending the rig.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
So, what's the "obvious" part of this post Bob?
just yankin' your chain, gary. this kind of sh#t is tradition with climbers. but you know that.
I'm just arguing that the people who have been the most active on the hill recently get a shot at sending
eliot, i totally agree with this...in principal. i'm of three minds.
1. yep, gary is blowing smoke and trying to bump his street cred on the back of another.
2. hell yeah, out of respect if nothing else, if we have guys working the thing hard, getting standard-issue vietnam-type woodson flappers, busting through the bush to find the mutherf*#k in the first place, then might as well stay off it if you know already you're gonna hike it in a try or two. this would be like patrick edlinger say in 1988 snaking some 5.10 project from a couple of yodelers who've been working it for weeks at some off-the-wall local crag. (i took brooke sandahl to the climb that became "the sin eater" in '85 and he just waltzed right up it. i had no idea that s.d. locals had been projecting the thing, and in retrospect we prolly would have gone elsewhere if i'd known and thought it through. on the other hand the climbing world is and always has been a free-for-all and that's the way i'd like to see it stay.)
3. chris was puffing his way up that fukking road with me and tom and elke and jocelyn when he was, like, three years old. at what -- late 20's, early 30's? -- he's hands down the youngest of the oldskool locals from the mid-80's. he can do whatever he damn well wants to up there and nobody has any place to say a damn thing about it. so, whatever.
burn after reading.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
Eliot, easy simba!
I became aware of this climb through another person telling me about it years ago. The person that told me was shown by someone that told him about it, and so forth. Should he have told me? Don't see why not. Did I call Chris and share it with him, yep. Is he going to go up there and do it...probably not, I've already told him that it's currently a project. Is he interested in seeing it...yep. Should I have told him about it? See the statement above. You ever meet Andrew and Kathy (asian wife)? Andrew's after it as well. He's known about it for years. Who told him? Should they have? The news continues to spread Eliot, but now it should stop because there's better climbers out there than us?
"Only by pride cometh contention:" - Proverbs 13:10. How true that is.
Edit: "Self serving"? Oh, Eliot, showing you around Santee when I met you was not for you bro, it was for my glory...shame on you. Btw, it was, "I can't help to think of Chris Lindner on this thing." Get it right young man.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
I became aware of this climb through another person telling me about it years ago. The person that told me was shown by someone that told him about it, and so forth.
jesus gary you're so full of it. you knew about it for years and you never scoped it out? never even looked at it?
too busy thinking about bolting uncertainty or doctoring the landing on hear my train? what's next, dude?
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
1. "yep, gary is blowing smoke and trying to bump his street cred on the back of another."
Actually, I could care less about my "street cred". I just want to watch poetry in motion! Chris baffled me last year and I want more! I've always enjoyed watching better climbers than myself and it hasn't changed thirty years later. If he waltzed up this project, oooorah! I really don't care who's "projecting" the thing, continue with YOUR project, it's not anybody elses. Isn't the sport a personal quest, even if someone else has already done it? Every route I've done had someone do it before me but I was STOKED to just be able try it and to just be on it! I have no first ascents under my belt to my knowledge. Have I done some things that nobody else has, climbing or non-climbing? Of course I have! Some things I'm not so proud of being the first at, believe me!
Chris, in my humble opinion, doesn't care either! From what I see of him, he's not about status, he's told me so himself. He want's no part of it...and that's at the age of 26, the age of my son! Glory to God for Chris and those like him.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
Bolting Uncertainty? Like I said, "I've never bolted in my life" nor would I know how to begin to do so. Did the post raise some danders? You be the judge.
I eventually got the start to IHMT from the ground with Chris last year. I'll leave the stone in situ after all.
Yep, known/heard about a lot of things up on Woodson and STILL haven't seen some of them nor tried them. I've concluded that I'll never be good enough to do a lot of the problems up there. But to hear about/watch others, like Eliot, Doug, et al, crank'em out? Put's a smile on my face every time!
What's next? Continue my quest.
|
|
eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
|
|
Good points bvb. I agree with all of them. Again, thanks for sharing this cracks location in the first place. Sh#t, we wouldn't have even known about it without you and this forum.
I might not be sending it anytime soon. But others who have been schwacking out there with me have also been putting in days on it.
Gary, thanks for showing me Santee BITD. Sorry I was harsh and I may have used some buzz words you don't like to hear.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
LOL, "BITD"!
Eliot, you're not old enough to use that word! Santee was just yesterday...2007!
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
Chris baffled me last year and I want more!
um, ok, but you might want to try some lube next time. and i'm guessing folks would appreciate it if you'd stop dropping names into this cesspool..
before destruction the heart of man is haughty, and before honor is humility. proverbs somethingorother.
Actually, I could care less about my "street cred".
back in the garage with my bullshit detector.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
"Before destruction the heart of man is haughty, and before honour is humility." - Proverbs 18:12
Looks as if we're both using the KJV...good choice!
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
actually gary, i'm digging into the niv right now. it's like being back in f*#king college. for the psalms i prefer the kjv. i'm also getting all oldschool with j. vernon mcgee. he declares that genesis and matthew are the most important books. i'm more of a john type myself: first person singular, ftw.
but i STILL think you need to throttle back and chill for awhile.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
"Chris baffled me last year and I want more!"
"watch others, like Eliot, Doug, et al, crank'em out"
And you actually commented like that using Chris' name Bob?
"Throttle back"?
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
Careful with that NIV Bob, something like 64,000 words deleted from the KJV.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
And you actually commented like that using Chris' name Bob?
OH HELL YEAH. C4 much, gary?
this thread needs less bullshit and more pics.
crazy-assed-bitch on robbins, 1985:
well, is it?
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
|
|
the last time I talked to Bachar, He said, John long told him that
Peter Croft overheard Lynn Hill say...
|
|
goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
|
|
We're gonna need some more ROCKBOB cartoons to sort though this mess.
|
|
Horvath
Trad climber
CA
|
|
Woooo wheee! its getting firey on here.
Anyway, I know everyone's got a hard on for this "projjjjj" but who wants to get on Mosh Pit? and for that matter VP's Office? Should be going this weekend if anyone is interested.
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
Wow.
Climbing and woodson are both very personal matters to me, so much that the two can’t be separated. My friends and I have spent vast amounts of life on that hill – no doubt the same for many people on this thread. (I don’t remember the last time I walked down the road when it wasn’t dark…it’s standard for our crew to collectively be there 6 or 7 days a week. ) That’s why it’s been really cool to have this forum that bridges the gap and unites climbers between past and present. An internet commonplace for dialogue, nostalgia, and psych is unique to woodson and something only possible through modern technology. At times I forget that this thread isn’t just a bunch of people that love woodson and that it is open to the public. (example: who are you goatboy smellz?)
To be honest, I was almost disappointed when I first saw the climb. It looked too easy. After getting Fade to Black second try and watching Eliot the past 3 months NEVER get shut down, I was hoping that this thing would be something that took some effort. Luckily it does, and the coolest part for me has been the process of working the moves with Eliot and having to believe that it’s possible. Once it gets climbed, and it doesn’t matter by who, part of that organic process of discovery will be gone.
My feelings are that we shwacked to re-find the line. We put in the imagination to learn the sequences. However, at the same time, rock is open to everybody. I have nothing against Chris; he was really nice when I met him and I’d be psyched to climb with him again. The issue is, Gary, your sudden interest alongside BVB’s, Eliot’s, and my revival of the climb. Given the temporal proximity of Eliot and I working the line and you offering it to others, your actions don't seem like a random coincidence. If you have known about this crack for years, why do you want somebody to tick it all of a sudden? If you are looking for first ascent lines that I have scoped or tried, I can show you plenty - far and near the road. You might be surprised at how painless some of the approaches are.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
The issue is, Gary, your sudden interest alongside BVB’s, Eliot’s, and my revival of the climb.
EXACTLY.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
Gary, you are absolutely correct about the non proprietary nature of information. What to do with information one holds is strictly up to that individual, and whether its shared or withheld and to what effect is not a matter of right or wrong, its a matter of perrogative. Theres nothing wrong with you telling Chris or anybody else what you know.
There is more to this issue than information, however. Obviously more than one person knew of this unclimbed crack. Bob went public with this information, which was no different than Gary telling Lindner about it.
At this point everything was words, and talk is cheap. When people acted on this information then reality became a factor. Talking and knowing about something is one thing, thrashing blindly through dense brush with only vague directions is quite another. Eliot and company put some hard time and effort into locating this thing, and that is an investment that only they have made at this time. I understand and completely identify with Eliots rant. The work he has invested in this climb gives him the right to rant, and i thought he stated his case well. I wouldnt appreciate someone directing a gunslinger to my project right after i had broken trail to it.
Gary can say he did no wrong by telling Lindner about this crack, and he would be correct. The accepted rules of our sport say that any line left unclimbed is fair game. Courtesy, however, would dictate otherwise. Would Gary have called Lindner at this particular time, to tell him about this particular route if there had been no posting about it? A route he says he has known about for years? Not a chance. It comes down to intent, and while intentions are a matter of the heart which cant be proven or disproven, the circumstances make it pretty easy to deduce. It may not stand up in a court of law, but it seems obvious that ulterior motives came into play.
Maybe the rules say that you can give away somebody elses project, but that doesnt make it right. Some respect for the work it took to uncover this line, and the courtesy to leave the decision as to how and when it will be publicized to those who have invested their time and effort into its development is not mandatory, but it is the considerate thing to do.
As far as unnamed sources, why even bother? Ones imagination is an unnamed source. Unattributed information is gossip, period. The only reason for not divulging a source is because it is not credible. Tell us the name of this Woodson authority, Gary. Is this person too sketchy to be vetted by those who know woodson and its climbers? Anonyminity precludes legitimacy.
|
|
goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
|
|
At times I forget that this thread isn’t just a bunch of people that love woodson and that it is open to the public. (example: who are you goatboy smellz?)
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2011 - 10:37pm PT
|
Wow is right. That was a bit of a twist. Some of the most recent posts sum things up quite nicely.
I certainly enjoyed the entire sequence of the problem being found, and was only able to do that because of a public forum. Unfortunately, a public forum can also open the door to other things as well. It's too bad if people have to lose out on hearing about current events at Woodson, and corresponding with those making it happen, because it has to be kept secret to avoid being snaked.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
But hasnt it always been that way Henny? You cant stop people from working your project if they know about it, and theres nothing wrong with them doing that. As soon as you walk away from an unclimbed line its up for grabs, so its send or keep it quiet till you do. We used to keep entire areas secret until we had worked everything we could manage, then wed bring in a hot guy like epps or MP to do the hard ones we couldnt get, THEN it went public. If somebody stumbled on it and cranked everything before we could, more power to em.
|
|
klk
Trad climber
cali
|
|
u gotta be kiddin. i know they say the 80s are back, but this is just sad.
KJV?
Luther/Emse:
Iche hebe meinen Augen aufe zu den Berge
von welchen mir Hilfe kommt
NUEVO REPRESENT!
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2011 - 12:20pm PT
|
Yes Ron, it has always been that way. Still, a little courtesy would be nice. I thought your post(s) as well as Doug's stated things well. The thread has/had, for the most part, been one of mutual support, encouragement, and sharing. Some consideration would be nice given the circumstances under which (this thread) the problem was re-discovered. Maybe that would be asking too much on a public forum though. Then again, I do agree that on the bottom line nobody actually broke any laws, or did anything new.
I do know about secret areas/problems and all that stuff. There's a good reason for it at times, I even have one right now - who doesn't. I decided not to go into it though because I didn't want to put everybody to sleep. (and no, your post wasn't boring because you taked about it, but mine probably would have been.)
Same as it ever was.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
Let us now draw the curtain of Charity across this scene, and hope that common sense, honesty, and courtesy prevail. We'll sit back and see what happens.
I am SO ready to crush the Woodson V1+ circuit this month!
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2011 - 01:34pm PT
|
Just exactly what, pray tell, is a Woodson V1+? Does such an animal even exist?
What are the dates you're going to be here again bvb (or is that a secret because your planning to snake that thin crack thing - assuming you can find it again)? I'd like to eyeball your operation but I'm not sure I can make the dates unless it's the end of the month.
Sit back and watch is all I can do now because I ain't there. And now that route areas are finally opening up I think I'm about to transition to going to my top secret crags (hahaha), so I'm likely done with Woodson till fall.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
Just exactly what, pray tell, is a Woodson V1+?
errr, that'd -- for me -- be the hike up the road.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
No secret here, tomorrow morning Andrew and I will be meeting @ 0900 on 67 and heading up to "The Project" / Mosh Pit. Come one, come all!
Edit: Oh, as in chat rooms, sharing Your ASL upon first entering, I'll extend some "common courtesy" (whatever that is in this instance) and let everyone know my Age / Sex / Level, Climbing, as to qualify in order to try "The Project" myself...48/M/5.11, and as to not threaten the working parties said "project" and potential first ascent/naming rights (I'm deducting that this is what the uproar is over). Now, in Andrew's case, his credentials are a different story. I hope its okay that "my source" shows me where this boulder is.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
hey gary, has the guy you are going with ever been to this thing before?
there are two possible answers.
1) yes. if so, then why didn't he go back for years? and why does he suddenly want to go back now?
2) no. if this is the case, then the answer speaks for itself (see gonamuck's next-to-last post).
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
we thought so.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
"Reginald "Dog""... "Top Rope Bolts at Woodson," ring a bell Bob?
Correction: Per a phone call tonight at 17:07, Duration: 1:53:09...
"The "Mosh Pit" was the name given to the area that the boulder is situated in. "Caught in the Mosh", was the name given to the OW. You put your head first into the crack, which eventually spits you out at 3/4 height, then you fight for every 1/16th of an inch of progress the last six feet of the climb!" says Troy Wold of Ramona. "Come on, don't give up," Troy recalls Rick Piggot encouraging him from below during the failed attempt. "You're so wet and slathered at that point that nothing works! Levis are definitely a must."
When asked about the seam Troy admits, "That finger crack/seam was WAY above my head, so I never got on it. Donny Bedford, Tom Lindner and Tom Gibson would probably have more history on it."
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
What "ulterior motive" are you speculating that I called Chris for Ron? I'll answer that and I'll bet you're way off the mark...For the record, I called Chris because of his ability to climb hard and I'd like to see him climb, and to climb that seam as well, period. If Chris ticks this thing, then he ticks it. There are other problems up on the mountain, already climbed by Chris and others, unnamed, witnessed by few, and will someday be rediscovered and climbed by someone else, claiming to be the first and it'll remain that way for future gen's to tell stories about, and those like Chris will never say a word. Stop your whining boys, and that includes you ROBERT.
Define "street cred"? Why does that ring of the young rebellious punks I live around here on Dictionary Hill, in the "Hood" here in Spring Valley? Aren't you around fifty five now Bob?
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
Sarcasm only perpetuates the rancor. Heres an idea. Instead of mocking and ridiculing opinions or comments that you dont agree with, try to relate and understand where they are coming from, and why they might think that way.
Open your mind to the fact that the opinions of others are just as valid as your own, and when someone disagrees with you it doesnt automatically make them your enemy.
Give others' comments due consideration. Think your reply through and word it so that it accurately expresses your feelings. Be candid and try to leave emotion out of it. Lets talk instead of hurl insults and get all pissy.
I will add my vote for respect, courtesy and goodwill in our little community. What goes around comes around.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
OT:
We call it "Hypoxic Irritability" in the field, mainly associating it with "chronic smokers" who, from smoking for long periods of their lives, inhale carbon monoxide produced in the smoke. Carbon monoxide aheres up to three hundred times greater than oxygen to the hemaglobin in the blood thus causing "hypoxia," or lack of oxygen to the body, including the brain. Not having enough oxygen to the brain causes irratability, and over time, often becomes part of their mentation, or the way they act.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
Yeah, I have my "peaks and valleys" too Ron and it was my intent to "perpetuate the rancor". Thanks for the humble reminder.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
"Reginald "Dog""..."Top Rope Bolts at Woodson," ring a bell Bob?
actually, no. fill us in.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
Just asking. Thought you might have some input.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
I have no idea gary, and wouldnt disrespect you by presuming to know what you are thinking. I had nothing specific in mind, there are many possibilities, and if you will read my remarks carefully you will see that I did not accuse you of having ulterior motives.
Calm down and read whats written rather than trying to read something into it. Theres nothing between the lines, i go to great lengths to express myself as clearly and accurately as possible.
I have said plenty about this already, and I stand by my words.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
Oh, and peace, Gary. We can still be friends cant we.
Amen to "peaks and valleys" we should all probably try to give each other a little more slack, benefit of doubt etc. I know I need to.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
goatboy, dont quit doing what you do, you ROCK
|
|
p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
|
|
I lived up on Dictionary hill. Back in the late 70s early 80s. But i was like 6 or 7 when we came to Ramona. My Family built allot of the house up their Do you still got your encyclopedia?
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
Havent been able to get out for almost 2 weeks, first due to a bum left shoulder, and this week, work work work.
I havent heard from bvb, does anyone know if he actually made it down?
Big bump to keep the thread alive...
Keep posting on what youre doing on the hill!
|
|
frog-e
Trad climber
Imperial Beach California
|
|
Well, I have a few memories to share of climbing there.
Mostly thoughts of the wonderful talent I got to spend
Time with rock climbing: Michael Paul, Rick Piggot, Keith
Brueckner, Eric Beck and so many others...
Ran into Eric in Jtree a few weeks ago, on a trail out by
Echo rock. A. Flood of memories came back. We climbed
together a fair bit back then, and I would love to share
some little stories about this.
Ok, more later...
:-)
|
|
Adam Mashouri
Trad climber
Encinitas, CA
|
|
Had a blast up on the hill for "Eliot's last day" of woodson sends. Big crew, awesome vibe, perfect weather, what more could you ask for? Here are a few shots from the sending fun.
|
|
F10
Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
|
|
That's a butt-load of photos
Thanks
|
|
fatthew
climber
San Diego
|
|
|
May 12, 2011 - 01:24am PT
|
Weather's perfect on Woodson - get at it. And to keep the pysche frothing...
The Ogre
Moroccan Menance
Woodson friction
California Night
Big Horn
Greg bush whacking
Quality libations during Eliot's send off
|
|
frog-e
Trad climber
Imperial Beach California
|
|
|
May 15, 2011 - 12:06am PT
|
Wow!
I wanna thank Adam and others for posting all those
pictures - just great - thank you so much. It's awesome
to see the new and current group(s) out having a blast
rock climbing at Mt. Woodson!
Thanks again!
Ray
|
|
frog-e
Trad climber
Imperial Beach California
|
|
|
May 15, 2011 - 12:33am PT
|
Oh, BTW - how many on-sight leads of The Ogre?
I got one, used Friends #4, #2.5, #2, and #1.5 - great pro!
Ken Turley and Craig Snortland (deveropers of Lawson
Peak) were there that day along with Piggot and Carmel.
We proceded to boulder down the hill, finishing
Up at dark, completely thrashed in that special
Mt. Woodson way...
Too much fun!!
|
|
p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
|
|
|
May 19, 2011 - 02:17am PT
|
bump
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
May 21, 2011 - 03:06am PT
|
I resumed work on my trail this week, finally linking up to the playground on Thursday. It runs from Slant Crack to the Vomitorium with no bushwhacking involved. Exit the Vomitorium toward control tower and make a quick left onto a trail headed south. When a big, flat rock blocks the way, climb over it and continue south. You cant lose the trail.
After 4 days of slinging brush I finally went climbing today, with Greg Horvath, a real strong climber and good guy. First we visited 49th street, which has super clean friction problems all over it. After that we went to Greg's project, and after a half dozen tries, he SENT the thing. This has got to be one of the sickest problems on the hill. Its hard to just hang from the starting holds. Greg outdid himself with this one. He had name, which I will let him announce, but the grade is V6/7, and I give it 5 stars. Greg on 49th StreetGreg Horvath on his new test piece.
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
|
|
|
May 21, 2011 - 09:46am PT
|
Wow! Great job Greg! Awesome photos Ron!
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
May 22, 2011 - 02:27am PT
|
CORRECTION:
I previously posted this picture and erroneously identified the route as "49th Street", but its actually just a random boulder problem on the hill. I realized this after climbing on the real 49th Street yesterday.This is NOT the climb named "49th Street"
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
May 22, 2011 - 02:40am PT
|
put down that crack pipe ron!
|
|
p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
|
|
|
May 22, 2011 - 05:20am PT
|
gonamok them pics still don,t give that climb them credit it needs. Awesome climb.
this is what Im working on! I had to buy a 600ft rope. Im just planing to rap it and jumer back up
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
|
|
|
May 22, 2011 - 10:27am PT
|
I would have to aggree with p-owed...
That problem of Greg's looks crazy sick when your standing below it!
|
|
Horvath
Trad climber
CA
|
|
|
May 22, 2011 - 01:36pm PT
|
thanks guys, its a solid lip problem and I just hope more people will get on it.
name: flight of the ox
p-owed- nice cave out there eh? I've seen it as well, but couldn't tell if there were any climbable features. Have you rapped in yet to have a look?
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
May 22, 2011 - 08:34pm PT
|
Bob, you know I cant do crack, youve seen me try
|
|
p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
|
|
|
May 22, 2011 - 11:52pm PT
|
we went out last Sunday > The wind was blowing to hard and it was to cold to get wet. Were thinking sat or Sunday if we can get out early. should be fun! you in?
|
|
Horvath
Trad climber
CA
|
|
|
May 23, 2011 - 02:30pm PT
|
thank you for the invite but I'll be out of town this weekend. Have fun!
-and don't forget the bolt gun : )
|
|
dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
|
|
|
May 23, 2011 - 04:03pm PT
|
The Widow Bereft.No apostrophe.No s.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
May 24, 2011 - 11:09pm PT
|
Hey Dick, whaddup. Thanks for the good info
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
May 26, 2011 - 01:06am PT
|
BeeVeeBee - You still gonna grace us with your swarthy presence down here over Memorial day weekend? I got the perfect circuit lined up, problems ranging from 5.6b to 5.8c/d, stuff even you can do.
Call me
|
|
Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
|
|
|
May 26, 2011 - 03:31am PT
|
Just have to say that I've had the best of times there with my mates, and these great new shots show how bitchen that place really is!! Thanx to all of my so-cal brothers, and good show to the new generation that are keeping the place "Epic!" <3
|
|
p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
|
|
|
May 31, 2011 - 10:57pm PT
|
that was an awesome
rap.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
p-owed, tell us more about that thing, where is it? Climbing potential? Length? Its pretty impressive.
|
|
p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
|
|
That is where that kid died a few months ago. Mildrid falls!
It is usually dry. This year do to the rain its been flowing all year. If it is climbable in would be 5.13 or higher a few faces around look ok. when we climbed out their where a lot of lose rocks and dirt. its bolted at the top and 100 feet down on the first ledge the ledge has just one bolt. I raped it using a 600ft blue water assault rope with my brother. We are planing to go back when it is dry to do it again. I,ll post up before is anyone wants to go
.
.
|
|
F10
Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
|
|
p-owed
A friend of mine put those bolts in. We did a couple of routes on the upper tier when it was dry. Plan was to go back and do some stuff on the bottom part but didn't materialize.
Upper tier, no water
|
|
p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
|
|
Kool! i have never go their when it was dry. Thanks for the blots. When did you place them the beta sayed their was only one. When was the cross to the west above the falls put up do you know or was it for that kid that died trying to rap it a few months ago.
|
|
p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
|
|
When i was on that ledge it was green and very slippy.
|
|
Anxious Melancholy
Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
|
|
Mildred Rap:
1) two bolts located north side, 5'-10' back from lip of fall. Rappel <100' diagonally across line of fall to two bolts on wall at the large ledge below, right side of fall.
2) Rap again to another two bolts at next large ledge (<100')
3) 180' rap to ground, majority of rap in overhanging territory.
Alternately, a 300' cord can get you onto easily down climbed ledges just above the ground.
(Original rap was completed in two stages, each off a single bolt and both on the north side of the fall, first from the 1)station mentioned above straight down to a second rap from a single, no stance bolt located on the bulge above the overhanging wall. This is the one that seems to sucker people and get them in trouble)
As F10 mentions I installed the double sets of bolts a couple years ago (well I only added one at the top to compliment someone's original bolt, then installed two at the following two new stations on the fall's right side) to facilitate belays for our climbs on the short walls above the top two ledge systems. We've had some fun out there doing that, but I never really intended the route to become the rap route that it has. As I have personally experienced, it is difficult to do the shift from one side of the fall to the other on the first rap when it's wet. Be forewarned.....
|
|
p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
|
|
I know a bob that climbed Mildrid in the 70s with his late best friend.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
Just got an email from Dan Beall regarding his probable first ascent of the arete to the right of Jaws. Btw, Dan did this WITHOUT using the broken section that was a topic of discussion earlier in the thread (imagine that). Here is the link on vimeo he sent me...
http://vimeo.com/24804042
Edit: Never did see BVB in San Diego.
|
|
Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Jun 13, 2011 - 02:52am PT
|
Dan is such a beast. I love his enthusiasm and strength. I'm glad he's still sending new stuff out at Woodson.
I just got back from a late afternoon session at Woodson. I just did the stand start to Boulder 13 (I think that's the name). Now I need to go back and get the sit start to the problem. I'll probably bring a camera and video the ascent, since it's quite unique. It's quite a few moves of inversion offwidth, for me. Good fun! Who on this thread has done B13? And if you did it, did you invert?
Josh
|
|
dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
|
|
|
Jun 14, 2011 - 04:04pm PT
|
I still remember the sequence to boulder 13 after 30 years.Fist jam, armbar ,top.Locking each one as low as I could.Sit start would be fun.
|
|
Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Jun 14, 2011 - 06:46pm PT
|
No inversion? Jeez, that must have been hard! Maybe I'll work that solution to it next. Left side, or right side in? I'd guess left.... I always assumed that the people who didn't invert had HUGE mits and fist jammed the crack.
Josh
|
|
frog-e
Trad climber
Imperial Beach California
|
|
|
Jun 14, 2011 - 06:57pm PT
|
RE: "Dan Beall regarding his probable first ascent of the arete to the right of Jaws."
pretty awesome video - wicked looking problem. TFPU.
|
|
frog-e
Trad climber
Imperial Beach California
|
|
|
Jun 14, 2011 - 07:40pm PT
|
So, I've heard people have almost died from lack of oxygen up there...
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jun 15, 2011 - 03:48am PT
|
Dan's ascent is incredible if you ask me...makes me look like a beginner! Look at the length of that dynamic move he makes, what a beast is right!
You're climbing hard too, for an "ol' man," Josh! I'll help you do the video if you want, leave me an email.
|
|
frog-e
Trad climber
Imperial Beach California
|
|
|
Jun 15, 2011 - 07:05pm PT
|
Seems to me Woodson, with that elevation gain - and the road - would be an awesome place for a speed climbing competition. Three divisions, based on age.
A one (to three?) day event. How aerobic could it get? Climbing contests - and competing - are a big part of Woodson's history.
|
|
Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Jun 15, 2011 - 07:17pm PT
|
I never set records, but I used to do a slow jog up the mountain, tag the summit, and solo routes on the way down. It was a great way to spend an afternoon out there after work.
Josh
|
|
p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
|
|
|
Jun 19, 2011 - 11:53am PT
|
Hit Woodson Friday night I had already drunk a bottle of crown before my crew abducted me. Al We did was mess around on painted bolder till 12.
|
|
gonzo chemist
climber
Crane Jackson's Fountain St. Theater
|
|
|
Jun 20, 2011 - 03:31am PT
|
lots of awesome photos! By the way (sorry--I've been buried for the last two months), where is Eliot going?
-N
|
|
p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
|
|
bump
|
|
Horvath
Trad climber
CA
|
|
|
Jul 12, 2011 - 03:06pm PT
|
Just to keep the memories of a great season going, here's a couple photos I've been sitting on for a while.
This was the day of Eliots party (see heavy cooler). Also a sweet sequence of Dan bouldering on the Jaws boulder. Plus some new route potential!
most photo credits go to Doug- good eye mate.
|
|
p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
|
|
|
Jul 13, 2011 - 12:05am PT
|
nice pics
|
|
frog-e
Trad climber
Imperial Beach California
|
|
|
Jul 13, 2011 - 12:10am PT
|
Really neat pics - thanks for sharing!
Hey, how 'bout one of those coolers w/ wheels??
|
|
p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
|
|
|
Jul 13, 2011 - 12:16am PT
|
Full moon Friday night climbing!! Woodson be their TR and boldering leave the racks at home!
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Jul 15, 2011 - 10:48pm PT
|
Great shots Greg. What have you been up to lately?
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Jul 16, 2011 - 12:15am PT
|
i'm curious about this route to the right of jaws. i'd scoped that line many times, but it just didn't seem there. were we just bone heads, or has it been enhanced?
looks sw0le.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jul 16, 2011 - 02:47am PT
|
Hey Bob, that line was a topic of discussion earlier in the thread where I arrived to find broken flakes all over the ground. I took a few photos of the broken pieces and suspected a guy to have done it but nobody came forward to claim it. A bit later Dan Beall approached me and I was told that he didn't have any part in the activity but that he had done the line WITHOUT utilizing the "enhanced" section. Here is the vimeo link of him doing it....SWOLE is an understatement!
http://vimeo.com/24804042
|
|
frog-e
Trad climber
Imperial Beach California
|
|
|
Jul 16, 2011 - 02:53am PT
|
yes, bvb, you were bone headS...
we all were.
haHA!
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jul 18, 2011 - 01:23am PT
|
Where the chalk/tick marks are above and to the left of Dan is enhanced...C'est la vie, it's there now!
|
|
c22
Boulder climber
Poway, Ca
|
|
|
Jul 20, 2011 - 04:11am PT
|
Pretty sure you mean up and right. All the brown exfoliated crap. The stuff up and left is good old woodson pink. It's been there a while.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
So, where again did these flakes come off from Dan? The yellow or red area, or a bit of both?
|
|
Jonnnyyyzzz
Trad climber
San Diego,CA
|
|
I showed this in another thread and thought I'd share it here as well. saw a link to this the other day on MP. It's in a pdf file so it can download to and work with a smart phone.Woodson Guide/Map .
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
Yeah, I was turned on to that link and had it posted on rc.com before it appeared on Mountain Project....rad!
|
|
cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
|
|
|
Aug 20, 2011 - 04:13pm PT
|
Hi Woodson climbers!
Some of you may know Ben Spilman. He posts here as P-OWED. If you see him please let him know that he either needs to return my cams to me or pay me for them. He won't return my emails and for some reason thinks that he can just steal my cams and just go about his business like nothing happened.
I will be filing a complaint with the San Diego County Sheriff's Office if this is not resolved soon.
Bob
|
|
Banquo
climber
Morgan Hill, CA (Mo' Hill)
|
|
|
Aug 21, 2011 - 03:20pm PT
|
Sounds like you are "Pee Owed."
Not only pissed off but owed by P
|
|
c22
Boulder climber
Poway, Ca
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2011 - 05:54am PT
|
Okay, so obviously I'm kind of a slow responder. The lower left yellow squiggly is totally clean. The red stuff looked largely broken but is unused. The bottom portion of the right yellow line looked broken but is also unused. Kinda hard to describe here, but I think it's reasonably obvious if you go and look at it.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Sep 27, 2011 - 04:16am PT
|
Maybe people arent posting because the heat has been keeping them off the hill? I know it did me, but the 90+ degree weather that stuck with us from july to late september is over now, and woodson is coming into season as the days grow shorter. I went up 3 times this week, and its been beautiful in the late afternoon and evening.
Still on my trail building binge, expanding the trail system from the playground down the south slope and east-west across the southern escarpment from ricks ramp to slant crack. Virgin rock and much new route potential can be found all over the place if anyone is interested. Also doing some clearing around the southern fringe of the masters of the universe boulders and finding good rock there too.
Being deep in the brush as the sun goes down is a wondrous thing. The breeze stops, and right after sunset all is almost silent for about 5 minutes, then the noises of the night fade in from near and far (if you are quiet, that is). Scurrying, clicking, rustles, chirps etc. are everywhere, punctuated by the occasional sound of something way too big moving around out there. Coyote? Puma? Wild dog? Feral hog? mule deer?
It adds some spice to the outing to be out there in the dark when everything is feeding. You definately feel like part of the food chain, which keeps me from lingering too long, but being immersed in the environment like that is good for the soul.
Heres a self portrait I took right before this evening's bout with woodsons ornery bush.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Sep 28, 2011 - 04:36am PT
|
I showed this in another thread and thought I'd share it here as well. saw a link to this the other day on MP. It's in a pdf file so it can download to and work with a smart phone.Woodson Guide/Map .
The newest stuff on those topos is about 20 years old, and many (even older) 5 star classics arent shown at all. The guy puts his own names on features that were named decades ago, and there are mistakes galore. "Water tower boulders"? The masters of the universe boulders were discovered long before there was a water tower there. Slapstick is not on the center of the TV screen, its on the east end - no mention of HDTV.
The author has some gall to put his own name on one of the oldest and most highly trafficked problems on the hill - the right side of the TV screen. A clear case of "almighty author syndrome", where guidebook writers delude themselves into thinking that writing a guide gives them the authority to ignore or rewrite history as they see fit.
So how is it that the king of the television screen knows nothing about the playground? Or maybe all those problems were left out because he didnt deem them worthy?
Ratings are arbitrary and many changed and there are dumb, unnecessary comments like calling silk banana a 5.12c with "some serious liebackin". Really? Its an undercling that nobody does because nobody can. You have to be tall, long limbed and as strong as hercules just to pull your feet off the ground - Piggot fit that bill, but Ive never heard of anybody else doing the thing.
The guide is junk, but it fills a void for beginners or out of towners - too bad no research went into it other than copying previous guides. 90% or more of the content should be attributed to earlier guides - notably Michael Pauls landmark guide, that introduced the format that this guide uses.
I will never understand why people write guides to areas they know little about.
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Sep 28, 2011 - 08:48am PT
|
I was also struck by the incompletness of the guide.
The guy didn't do his homework.
Re-nameing areas and problems is arrogant and disrespectful.
|
|
gonzo chemist
climber
Crane Jackson's Fountain St. Theater
|
|
|
Oct 19, 2011 - 12:08am PT
|
Had a good day up on the hill today. Hot as f*#k, but that's par for the course around here these days.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Oct 25, 2011 - 01:55am PT
|
The weather has cooled down, which means back to my construction activities. I extended my south slope east-west highway almost to ricks ramp today (but downhill), and finally checked out a deep ravine that I discovered hiding under normal looking brush. I could look 20 feet down it and still not see the bottom, and thought i would have to rap into it. I ended up cutting a trail across the drainage uphill from the abyss, then worked my way downhill on the opposite side. Dense tangled brush on that side prevented me from even getting a view, but after some hacking, I found a steep but manageable drop in to a flat spot about 15 feet below.
It wasnt as radical as I hoped, but very different for woodson. Huge oak trees provide all day shade and a breeze flows thru nicely. 12 feet below this ledge I could see what looked like a deep cave under a monster boulder. More cutting then a slide down a slope of knee deep leaves put me at the cave mouth - alas, no stalagtites, but another cool feature. I intend to run the trail right through this shady gulch in the coming days. Westward ho.the first ledge after dropping in the cave at the bottomlooking out at the backside of ricks ramp49th street in golden alpenglowanother glorious woodson sunset
|
|
the bubba
Boulder climber
flagstaff
|
|
|
Oct 25, 2011 - 02:09am PT
|
Noice Ron! Hey, I'm in San Diego. Let's hit Woodson go crush the 5.9 circuit!
|
|
Anxious Melancholy
Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
|
|
|
Oct 25, 2011 - 10:39am PT
|
W,
Temps cooling off nicely, and there's still a trickle of water in creeks here and there for a change. Still need to pick your hours and exposures for total comfort, but it really ain't half bad!
AM
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Oct 26, 2011 - 02:38am PT
|
bobo? izzat....izzit you!? hell yes lets go mug some 5.7s im emailing you my number call me and lets thrash!
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Oct 26, 2011 - 02:55am PT
|
It is cooling off down here kevin, but the long pants and shirt are mostly protection from the evil brush that ive ripping thru to explore the untrodden south slope. Finding some choice untouched rock, but havent stopped to climb much of it yet. As soon as i reach some boulder i just gotta see whats on the other side of the next boulder over. Im going thru one of those phases where deep in the brush is my favorite place to be.
Its desperate fun
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Oct 26, 2011 - 04:09am PT
|
Dat be me Rono. Back in Dago fer a spell...
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Oct 27, 2011 - 01:44am PT
|
Third day in a row working the south slope. It was at least 20 years ago that Rick and I stumbled upon a trailhead right where the water tower now stands. We followed a remarkably clear path through otherwise impenetrable brush, first south, then it bent with the slope and began heading west, where we found the explanation for this unlikely trail. An ancient looking water pipe lay in the middle of the westward leg and we followed this pipeline trail as it skirted the base of the southern escarpment, far below the playground.
The pipeline trail gave us access to a group of boulders near the very bottom of the south slope, where we put up a few routes. We did a few routes on boulders upslope from the pipeline too, notably "The Terminator" 11b and "49th street". We returned a few times then moved on to greener pastures on the hill.
Fast forward to the present. The water tower has obliterated the first 75 yards of the pipeline trail so it had languished all these years unfound and forgotten. A few months back I started a new trail just downhill from the water tower, cutting through dense brush out to some boulders that didnt yeild much, but while I was at those boulders, something uphill caught my eye and i set out toward it and stumbled across the pipeline again.
It all came back. I followed the still decent trail until I recognized 49th street, and I cut new trail up to the same elevation but couldnt reach it before dark. I have since made a trail that starts at slant crack and intersects with that trail, but there are many more good boulders high on the hill, so thats where i have been focusing my efforts up until now.
Today I started low and followed the pipeline until the trail died out, and found myself looking at The terminator for the first time in decades. I hacked a trail up to that boulder, and with light fading I back tracked and did some widening and clearing along the pipeline rather than push any farther. Im excited about getting back out to the terminator area due to the density of the boulders and the excellent rock quailty.
More to followthe yellow brick roadthe terminatorThats the ricks ramp/stealth bomber boulder way up the hillLooking at the Masters of the universe on my way out, where the trail hits the road
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Oct 27, 2011 - 02:35am PT
|
True dat. I remember Ray Olsen engineered some pretty remarkable trails. Looks like Ronbo has picked up the torch!
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2011 - 03:28am PT
|
I totally agree Warbler. Trailbuilding is an acquired taste, but a good one.
B double O B Booooooooob why havent you given me a call?!
If you arent up for the 5.6 r low boulder problems, we should go through some of that hilarious correspondence we generated BITD. Ive got a ton of it.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2011 - 04:02am PT
|
I'll buzz ya soon. Spent eight days in a hospital with sepsis (!) and was discharged a week ago today. Still a tad wobbly.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Oct 29, 2011 - 01:18am PT
|
I never heard so much whining in all my life. Now its "I was almost dead". Always about you, isnt it bob. Well I wasnt almost dead, you ever think about that? I didnt think so.
I had my chalkbag all ready and everything.
|
|
Mark K
Social climber
San Marcos, California
|
|
Doug, Lauren, Rob, and I finally decided to head out to Woodson for the first time this fall season. Some of us climbed a little these past few months, some of us climbed a lot, but none of us had climbed any crack. With an Indian Creek trip planned for the near future, we figured a little crack was just what the doctor ordered. So we warmed up on Robbin's Crack. We all did a few laps, figuring IC cracks will be just a bit longer than Woodson cracks.
Doug's new rappel technique after threading an unfamiliar belay device wrong.
Doug has a new quiver of old climbing shoes that he wanted to test out on some face, so we got on Eric's.
(Henny, you're in luck! After a few laps on Big Grunt, Doug decided the Menestrels just aren't for him. Looks like you've got some slightly blown out edging machines headed your way!)
Once our feet had endured enough jamming, we headed up to the Jaws area. We each did a few laps on Baby Robbin's, Jaws, and Corn Flake (with Lauren soloing it for the first time). We were having so much fun, we didn't take any pictures.
Next, we headed on down to Grand Central Station. Lauren and Rob got on GCS while Doug and I set up The Widow Bereft. Having never sent the climb, I worked it for a bit. Meanwhile, Doug went for a quick spin on the classic finger crack on the backside of the WB boulder.
Lauren, Rob, and I all had fun working WB, but, alas, no send. Next time, for sure. Here are some more pictures.
"I'm supposed to go where?!"
Close but no cigar.
Rob gettin' after it!
Doug lappin' it, looking old school!
All in all, a great day with great friends. What more could you ask for? Looking forward to an awesome Woodson season!
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
look at those shoes! brand new lookin!
|
|
Horvath
Trad climber
CA
|
|
bowline : )
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
way to go dood, i stand corrected! That problem confounded all comers for a long time, but I should know better. There are so many really good climbers out there now.
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2011 - 08:45pm PT
|
Knuckleheads.
Everybody knows there's never been a shoe made that can help you in the big grunt.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
Fun day on the hill yesterday. I took Greg Horvath and his friend Matt all the way down to the western frontier, where my south slope trail currently ends, and each of them ended up bagging an FA. Matt (last name, Greg?) cranked a short but powerful and severely overhanging finger crack that he called "Rat Crack" which looked harder than the V2 rating he gave it. Unfortunately I was busy spotting and didnt get any pics of it.
After that we made our way down to "The Terminator", a route I did over 20 years ago and only recently re-discovered. We cleared the landing, then Greg did a bold highball ascent of a new line directly up the center of the boulder, rating it 5.11. He didnt give it a name at the time, though it certainly deserves one.
I have eyeballed much new route potential along my trail, and it was good to see some of it finally get climbed. I have reached the west end of the southern escarpment now, and am continuing westward into a concentration of boulders where the quality of rock appears to be superb.
We shall see.Gregs new line hairball top out, note the splint on his finger
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
For the life of me, I just didn't feel solid in them. Do all scarpas climb like a dutch clog? ...felt a "little clunky;" maybe it is just me??
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
Cool Ron. So much for taking some time off, Greg.
|
|
Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
|
|
where is scruffy b?
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
I just got some scarpa asym's with vibram rubber and I love em. More of a smearing than edging shoe, but they edge pretty good too. BITD low top scarpas resoled with 5.10 rubber were the best edging machines around.
Why dont you tag along next time doug, the more the merrier as far as im concerned.
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2011 - 11:00am PT
|
Maybe. Just maybe.
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2011 - 11:57am PT
|
Poor, poor, pitiful Doug... I must admit, I did torture him this summer by making him face climb. Cracks? Bah. It isn't real climbing until the holds are so small you can't see them anymore. Then the LMs shine, not on that crack non-sense.
So, even though it isn't at Woodson, a couple of pictures of a mystery route where a Woodson local (Doug) played a big part in the FA (okay, the second still isn't quite done, and now it snowed here - frick - so it's down to looking for a warm window). I just wish I had a couple of pictures of the first pitch, which is brilliant itself. The route is a little steeper than it looks, and fairly thin. Good luck with a non-clog shoe.
I don't understand it. Get the face climbing dialed in, then run off to the cracks as soon as you get to Woodson. Wow.
Edit: Uh, Greg... What's up with the splint?
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
cracks...bleah
|
|
Horvath
Trad climber
CA
|
|
Doug is just getting psyched for Indian creek.
Darrel, sliced the base of my pinky with a broken ceramic bowl. Couple of stitches- the splint is to keep me from bending my finger which reopens the wound.
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2011 - 04:16am PT
|
I just know some exploration went down this weekend. Post up.
|
|
LMo
climber
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2011 - 12:30am PT
|
A couple from this weekend.
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2011 - 01:12am PT
|
Henny, lets just say I learned the finer points of schwacking...like rushing a nest of dead vines backwards so you don't gouge your eyeballs. I took at oath of allegiance so unless I want to go into and then come out of the wood chipper,* I can't spill the beans. Seriously, what beans though? The search continues...
*We watched "Fargo" this weekend. It's a good movie if you haven't seen it.
|
|
eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2011 - 09:47am PT
|
That foot/hand match on the Painted boulder is one of the coolest moves on Woodson. So stylish. Here's another one...
But seriously, you guys better quit holding out on the pics.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2011 - 11:36am PT
|
Ron Amick (Gonamuck) did a delicate problem about 10' left of the hand/foot match problem, up the bald arete. Highball, hard, and scary. All about the footwork. I never tried it, because, being an Amick problem, it was not worthy of the attention of a (c)bone-crushing, massively sw0le, living breathing American Legend. Bisshes.
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2011 - 11:49am PT
|
Hey Eliot, annoying being on the ouside looking in, isn't it? And then they go and hold out on the pictures.
I'm thinking about trying to make my first visit of the fall, hope I can still find the place.
Nice bvb, I guess you told Ron.
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2011 - 10:12pm PT
|
God O Bob
American Bishie Legend!
|
|
eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Nov 16, 2011 - 01:42am PT
|
Ahh, Woodson...how I miss it. All I have now are these threads to satiate me. And then they hold out on the pics. Descriptions should suffice Doug, Greg, Mark and Lauren. C'mon now...
Henny, when you head down don't forget your camera...
An Amick problem ten feet to the left, eh? Oh yeah, I've backed off that one...
|
|
Horvath
Trad climber
CA
|
|
|
Nov 16, 2011 - 06:54am PT
|
was wondering when we would hear from you! : )
and unfortunately that's all I have to say
|
|
frog-e
Trad climber
Imperial Beach California
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2011 - 09:51am PT
|
|
|
frog-e
Trad climber
Imperial Beach California
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2011 - 10:06am PT
|
The day I climbed w/ Lydia up there, we fired Uncertainty, and Widow Bereft. She was fun to climb with. And tough as nails and would stay till dark, and climb all day.
"In The Pits" is not my climb, never been there. Might be a mike geller creation, or someone like that.
Lydia and I were trying this thing, it's in a corridor, by the road. But then someone else figured a (different) way to do it, so we gave up. Before Big Grunt, right by the road, opposite an Arete w/ TR bolts (The Golden Age of Motoring, 10b) Pure arete climbing, almost.
I started to fade after Piggot showed me Adam Ant, and Fade To Black. Both freaking sick. Never even tried 'em.
Climbing at Woodson is awesome. The day can have so many variations: climb w/ so and so, then take off and boulder a while. Explore for new. Find another group, tag along. Then boulder down the hill as darkness falls.
|
|
Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2011 - 02:53pm PT
|
Lydia and I were trying this thing, it's in a corridor, by the road. But then someone else figured a (different) way to do it, so we gave up. Before Big Grunt, right by the road, opposite an Arete w/ TR bolts (The Golden Age of Motoring, 10b) Pure arete climbing, almost.
that does sound like in the pit / welcome home
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2011 - 09:38pm PT
|
bob.
bob,bob,bob....
I see youre still smarting from all those years of breathing my exhaust fumes. Dont hate me because I am mighty and you are not, it is simply gods will. Besides, youre a darn good little belayer and spotter
|
|
frog-e
Trad climber
Imperial Beach California
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2011 - 10:54pm PT
|
RE: "that does sound like in the pit / welcome home"
lol - the arete I mention is right above the road, in open air. :-) The pit looks cool, doubt I have been there, honest.
My digging produced the nice TR face almost directly below big grunt, down the opposite side of the road, Starts w/ distinct hand rail; it's short but deserved the TR bolts. Popular i guess.
Also, past the summit, left of the road (looking to the SW) I did a fair bit of TR exploration on a large boulder. You can see the face dropping away toward the ocean side view, from the road. My bolt studs are/were up on top. Nice spot.
The trail to the base of above boulder, was thought to be a main channel path, to stuff lower down. Built it back in 97, pretty good path.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Nov 21, 2011 - 12:14am PT
|
Hey Ray, gear up and meet me out there. Even if we're stuck rampaging the V0- circuit it'll be good times fo' sho'!
|
|
Horvath
Trad climber
CA
|
|
|
Nov 21, 2011 - 04:15am PT
|
Hey Ray,
is that "hand rail" you are talking about Werner's Wish?
If so that's one thiiiin hand rail : )
Also this arete you are talking Before Big Grunt, right by the road, opposite an Arete w/ TR bolts (The Golden Age of Motoring, 10b) Pure arete climbing, almost.
Are you sure its BEFORE big grunt. Because just above Big Grunt (just before Mother Superior, right above the road, in open air, is a corrider/chimney with two clean aretes on each side of the chimney- Does that sound right?
Also Ron- sweet photo!
|
|
gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
|
|
|
Nov 21, 2011 - 11:05am PT
|
For the first time in 5 years, I won't be spending the Friday/Saturday/Sunday after Thanksgiving climbing at Woodson. Seriously bumming about that...
|
|
frog-e
Trad climber
Imperial Beach California
|
|
|
Nov 21, 2011 - 11:19am PT
|
"Does that sound right?"
Lol, not sure. Long time ago, last I was there being late 90's.
RE: "Hey Ray, gear up and meet me out there"
cannot bvb, working very hard to not be a full cripple, right now. The myofascial adhesions in my leg are so severe, I bent the freaking acupuncture needle. Were doing prolotherapy (injections) too.
Thank you very much for the invitation, though. Sorry to be such a buzz kill.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Nov 21, 2011 - 11:09pm PT
|
Geez bob, ignoring my unprovoked, first-strike missive? You really know how to hurt a guy.
For concerned citizens who may be tuned in, what others call malicious slander, bvb n me call good clean humor....
And Ray, Im sorry to hear about your physical tribulations. I always had a ball climbing with you, ol buddy. I think we need to have a get together of all the original SD homeboys...a party and slideshow/bullshit session while we are all still breathing. Im gonna work on that.
Friday at Santee bob? gimmie a call
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Nov 21, 2011 - 11:45pm PT
|
That whister did more damage than I thought, Ron. My leg is turning black and blue from the foot right up through the calf. OUCH!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Nov 22, 2011 - 10:19am PT
|
Swole dude, truly swole! Yowee...
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 22, 2011 - 01:07pm PT
|
I don't know if I can trust these "bvb" posts. For all I know they may just be a cruel hoax perpetrated by some figment of Ron's imagination.
I mean, there was this thread about Bob bouldering with Ron in JT. It even had all these pictures that apparantly were of bvb his glorious self. But no, lo and behold, we later come to find out that the whole thing was just a troll staged by Ron, including the pictures. bvb had never been there.
Then next, there was this Santee thread by Ron. Again we were asked to believe that bvb had graced the place with his presence. It also had supposed pictures of bvb bouldering. Right. Like we're going to fall for that trickery again? We now know better than to believe what we think we're seeing.
And now, some mellow posts by bvb in this thread? Hey, that dude is one swOle, crushing, 'Merican legend. He don't take no knockdown from nobody. He flat out crushes. So ya gotta wonder, is that really bvb posting, or is it just Ron messin' with us?
How does that saying go? Fool us once, shame on you. Fool us twice, shame on us.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Nov 22, 2011 - 09:35pm PT
|
bob-o, sorry to hear about the hoof, i guess friday at santee is out, huh
Henny, i can make a bvb dummy but i cant make bvb dumber. Bbo may look n act dumb, but hes got a shrewd and calculating mind underneath that 1969 hairdo hes sportin. Some say Justin Bieber is really bvb deep undercover for god knows what twisted purpose.
He was spotted on a rooftop in Casablanca and fishing for cod on a icelandic freighter off the coast of Greenland IN THE SAME DAY. Some say he wears plaid and stripes TOGETHER.
Alarmingly, during the Japanese Tsunami disaster, bob was completely unaccounted for. Complicity or complacency? and wheres his ranger hat?
Bob is an enigma wrapped in a connundrum and topped with more gristle than you get in a whole cow.
Me? Im a simple and humble peasant incapable of wrongdoing. Its bob, oh yes, BOB that you gotta watch.
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2011 - 04:09pm PT
|
bvb???
You gonna let Ron talk like that without defending your impeccable, swOle, self?
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2011 - 04:18pm PT
|
Defense? Against Ronbo? I'm far too compassionate a Human Being for that. It'd be, like, child abuse or something.
Dude did kick my ass on mantles, though. Sorta like crushing me at underwater basket weaving. Imagine my distress.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2011 - 04:47pm PT
|
Bob, I was at Santee on Friday the 18th and saw a suspendered, thin gentleman coming down from the Dogpile Boulder trail in the afternoon. I was coming at him from the east side. That must have been you, no? He was headed out and too far ahead to intersect with him.
I left San Diego that Sunday to relocate the family back to New Jersey (don't ask). Am in Wichita, KS, at my son's house for Thxgiving as I write this. Leaving tonight to drive south to Arkansas to climb at Sam's Throne. Will be in Jersey by Monday then returning to Diego, on Dec. 8th, to p/u the second car, then driving cross country AGAIN!
I'm gone for now, but NEVER for good!
|
|
deepnet
Boulder climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2011 - 07:48pm PT
|
Gary, Best of luck to you and your family on your relocation.
Rick
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2011 - 07:55pm PT
|
More trash talk, please!
And the photos and stories are OK, too.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Nov 25, 2011 - 02:49am PT
|
Of course I kicked your ass at mantles bob, and heres why
Lets disseminate the words, shall we?
MANtle - theres a MAN in mantle. Other definitions are; title or symbol of authority, and a shelf for displaying your trophies
crACK - theres ack in crack, the sound cats make when coughing up a hairball. Other definitions are; a debilitating form of cocaine favored by inner city homeless individuals, and the chasm between ones buttocks
the evidence speaks for itself
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 25, 2011 - 11:06am PT
|
Whoa!
And just when I thought Ron must be at a loss for words since it was taking him so long to counter bvb.
You still standing bvb? You don't have any choice but to counter-punch that one.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Nov 25, 2011 - 10:36pm PT
|
henny, youre such a subtle instigator lol
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Nov 26, 2011 - 12:40am PT
|
This spring I am gonna drag Ronbo's ass up Valhalla. He does not know it yet, but it's gonna happen, even if he has to jug to follow. Look out world, I AM BACK.
Oh sh#t..it it too late to delete this!?
|
|
Horvath
Trad climber
CA
|
|
|
Nov 26, 2011 - 03:33am PT
|
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Nov 26, 2011 - 03:42am PT
|
I ticked valhalla 30 years ago bub. Come to think of it that could be more bad than good....
Ok, when you blow off the move onto the ledge, Ill take the lead. If you get into shape for that thing you KNOW Im gonna be climbing 11D. Cant break the "ron is god o bob" tradition, now 35 years running.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Nov 26, 2011 - 03:43am PT
|
looks like saturday before last, Greg
|
|
p-owed
Trad climber
Ramona ca
|
|
|
Nov 27, 2011 - 01:53am PT
|
Only ranger I've ever seen up their.
|
|
BeeHay
Trad climber
San Diego CA
|
|
|
Nov 27, 2011 - 12:37pm PT
|
Ron,are you copyrighting this sh*t?, 'cause I'm gonna frame some excerpts to hang over the MANTLE!
BH
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Nov 28, 2011 - 07:53pm PT
|
B hayniss, nah these philosophical musings are my contribution to society. Nice, huh? yoo betcha
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
You back up on the hill yet Darrell?
P.S. Brad, you still alive? We didn't see you for a good while. Hope everything is okay.
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2011 - 09:59pm PT
|
I've been a couple of times. Managed to at least be able to find the place still (unlike some locals - yeah, you know who you are so I won't name any names - who somehow took a wrong turn or two and ended up on the east side instead).
Work is really busy right now. Didn't have time to do much of anything, and haven't had a chance to go back again.
Different subject - this thread is starting to run on borrowed time. "Woodson - 2011" isn't going to make sense for much longer. Looking at the OP I started the thread on the 29th of December. What should we do, start a 2012 thread about the same day this month, or leave this thread with a 2011 title? I say start a "Woodson - 2012" thread. It's nice to have a thread dedicated to Woodson, whatever we end up doing.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
Let's start a Woodson 2012 Thread on 1/1/12. I'll have some pics to post and slander to sling by then. Projecting Robbin's Crack? HELL Yeah!
|
|
Mark K
Social climber
San Marcos, California
|
|
I like the new year, new thread idea.
And while I'm at it, I've got a question for you Henny (or anyone else in the know). How far left does one traverse to get to Exit Stage Left? I got on Kurtains the other day (which is REALLY good, as in better-than-Uncertainty good), and I got to looking at the neglected left side of the face. There didn't really seem to be an obvious line to follow, but then again, I wasn't looking too hard. Is there an obvious feature to aim for on the traverse? Or do you just stay left Kurtains and hope for the best?
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2011 - 11:22am PT
|
I always liked Kurtains much better than Uncertainty, so I'm certainly with you on that one.
What I remember about Exit Stage Left is that the traverse is done fairly low (as in hands might be on what would possibly be feet for Kurtains.) Once you've traversed out I'm pretty sure there is a small circular hole/edge that plays prominently into the sequence. You may traverse to it, or it may be a traverse until right under it, that I don't recall clearly. I think once you've traversed it's reasonably obvious where you need to start going up. I want to say after the traverse the moves may be slightly back right, then straight up, then tend left to gain the arete at about 3/4 height. That may be a good starting reference, draw a line down from around 3/4 of the way up the arete, knowing you make a few moves left at the end to gain it. That and try to locate the circular hole/edge by the end of the traverse. There is no way you're close enough to Kurtains for there to be a possibility of using anything on it.
Get on it, it's way, way good. I thought it was definately the hardest of the three, and also the best (just IMO). It's kind of cool because it does look sort of improbable from the ground. Bedford definately picked a plum with that one.
Sheesh, I don't even want to think about how long it's been since I last did it. I'd love to do that thing with you guys when I'm down again, if you haven't already done it. The last time I did it the weather was miserably windy and cold. I was out of my mind trying to get to the arete with frozen solid fingers. Fortunately they had frozen in the hook position. I was desperate trying to hook some sloping holds to the arete, not being able to feel a frickin' thing, and not being able to modify the shape of the hooks anymore. (actually, that's another thing that makes it the best of the three, it's also the most continuous.)
Edit: It is funny, Uncertainty gets raves and it's the least good of the three.
|
|
Mark K
Social climber
San Marcos, California
|
|
Ok, I think I got on Exit Stage Left today. I traversed the same as for Kurtains, but kept going left to the obvious hole. Traversing any lower than I did looked way desperate. After that, I went straight up, slightly right, then slightly back left. I did, however, get pretty close to Kurtains (maybe within two feet) before trending back left. Not sure if I was on route. My tips were too thrashed to give it a good red-point burn, but it felt a little easier than Kurtains (though I'm sure the sloping crimps at the end feel a lot worse when you haven't hung all over the thing). It climbs really well. I'd be psyched to get back on it next time you're in town Darrell.
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2011 - 11:23pm PT
|
Cool. It might traverse at the level you were at. I don't remember getting that close to Kurtains, but who knows. I suspect there's a good chance you were on line but I'd need to see it again to really know.
Soon I hope.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
Hey bob, Im way up for an expedition to robbins crack in the woodson mountains. Are you healed up? When we going climbing again?
|
|
REIGN 1
Social climber
Carlsbad, Ca
|
|
Henny, If I remember right you start on the opening kurtains holds and then drop down slightly and back up to the hole. Not much for the feet. Then it pretty much goes straight up to the round arete about 6-7ft from anchors. Not a very hard route but nice quality.
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 8, 2011 - 02:18am PT
|
Well, lookie who showed up.
I almost posted that what we needed was someone (like you) who might remember better than me, but wasn't sure you were checking in on this thread.
I recalled some features like the hole, but wasn't positive enough anymore to say exactly how they were used. I think you may be right, hands to it first. And yeah, seems the traverse was thin feet.
It's hard enough. I still think harder than Kurtains.
|
|
REIGN 1
Social climber
Carlsbad, Ca
|
|
|
Dec 11, 2011 - 11:39pm PT
|
Henny, I have to keep checking back in. Can't trust you and that dimes dude.
Im living in vegas again. Not climbing yet but doing lots of mtbing and boarding.
|
|
Horvath
Trad climber
CA
|
|
|
Dec 17, 2011 - 02:40pm PT
|
some recent trips
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Dec 20, 2011 - 04:15am PT
|
Greg, theres no reason you shouldnt name that arete on split rock, nobody else is going to, and youve got as valid a claim as anybody. Hell, you own that boulder after putting up flight of the ox anyway. More names are needed for that stuff on the south side for navigation if nothing else. Right now directions to stuff in the area are like "that little boulder to the right of the big boulder thats behind the pointy boulder on the left side of the trail" kinda thing.
So Elliot blows into town and solos stairway? Dayum, somebody put viagra in his cornflakes or somethin?
Did anybody send the hand traverse on the terminator?
I gotta get back out there. The weathers perfect but the days are so short. At least its only 2 days until we can start adding instead of subtracting a minute of daylight per day.
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2011 - 11:17am PT
|
Hey,
Does anyone checking in on this thread know how to get ahold of Rick Piggot? We have a question for him regarding the FA of one of the major lines at Woodson and getting an answer straight from the horse's mouth (so to speak) would be preferable.
If someone has an email address or phone number that Rick is willing to pass along, please PM it to my Supertopo account email.
Thanks
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2011 - 11:55am PT
|
I don't know Ron, as much trouble as I've been having naming anything recently, "that little boulder to the right of the big boulder thats behind the pointy boulder on the left side of the trail" sounds like a pretty darn good name to me.
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2011 - 03:19pm PT
|
New TR problem to the left of The Vision. Night Vision - obvious line moving a little left from the small shelf. Thin edging/pimping. Quite good, well worth checking out.
Speaking of the Vision, there's a hard one. Anyone else done it or tried it? That was a good score by Johnny.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Dec 20, 2011 - 04:46pm PT
|
I flew back in town on the 8th, as promised, and had to take the habitual lap up the mountain before heading east for the second time. Marcelle met up with me to enjoy a perfect, cool, afternoon, beginning at the Baby Robbins boulder. After a few laps on the aforementioned, and setting a TR on Jaws, we dropped down to Blasted Rock #2 to further our warm up. Joe and Geneva intersected with us here shortly thereafter. We all headed back up to Baby Robbins where Joe had his eyes on prying open Jaws. Everyone did well, whether they succeeded or not. We headed down to Girls Climb and did the same. The temps were perfect! Time was of the essence for some, so Marcelle and I headed up to California Night to get some more. That thing never gets any easier! As we emerged back to the road, from the slightly overgrown trail, we ran in to Henny and Doug were we enjoyed great conversation and camaraderie on the ritual walk down the mountain. Woodson is awesome in that respect.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Dec 20, 2011 - 04:56pm PT
|
Some photos from my road trip back across the country:
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2011 - 05:00pm PT
|
Doug
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Dec 20, 2011 - 05:03pm PT
|
Thanks
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Dec 23, 2011 - 01:24am PT
|
Henny, is night vision yours? I belayed john weinberg on the vision when he tried for the repeat shortly after he put it up. He had to hang a couple times but he cranked all the moves, and it was really impressive. The crux is like 6 hard thin moves stacked on top of each other, powerful leg extensions on teeny holds.
A few of the young guns have gotten on it, but i havent heard of anybody sending the repeat yet. Its a plum for sure.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Dec 23, 2011 - 01:30am PT
|
Oh and henny, feel free to use that name - I had been saving it, but theres not that many pointy boulders on woodson
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2011 - 12:30pm PT
|
Ron - yes. Was the origin of the name Night Vision yours? Doug and I were wondering where the name came from. I think we may have picked it up from talking to Johnny. Did Johnny get it from you? Anyway, it's had that working name since we first knew about it, and since it seemed like a good name (given the Vision) I decided it was worth keeping. If it's yours and you want to save the name, I do have another Vision derivative name I can use...
I find the Vision to be very hard, haven't done it yet. It's that one sequence of a few moves to the first black diorite knob. Johnny said he was real extended to reach it and he has at least a couple of inches reach on me. Johnny is also quite good at more pure smearing stuff like that crux sequence. It's hard and I'm just whining about it. I don't know of any repeats yet either.
The problem left of the Vision is different, micro edging vs. smearing. Good problem. Two good, somewhat different, hard TRs right next to each other on good rock. Nice.
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Dec 31, 2011 - 01:08am PT
|
I think you need to climb it before you name it. The Vision was an exception because of the spiritual experience I had while standing on top of it, but that was just what I called it. I made it clear to John that I expected him to name his creation, but he liked "The Vision", so he kept it (its a pretty good name) only now it signifies HIS vision.
Night Vision didnt come from me. As you know, naming rights always go to the FA party, so the route is whatever you want to call it. Nice job on the send, henny. The third wave of development at woodson is in full swing and growing stronger. Its great to see.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Dec 31, 2011 - 01:20am PT
|
New Woodson 2012 thread in 10...9...8...7...
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Dec 31, 2011 - 01:37am PT
|
I took Greg down to "Rough Boys" last monday. There used to be a left and right variation, but a flake that was the main hold for the right problem broke, and it will be way harder if it even goes. The left was the best of the 2 anyway, and Greg sent it after a couple tries. He also put up an unusual and off the deck traversing problem that he called "committment ring". Greg also showed me a bunch of new problems he did in the new area, down from the mantle pill. Good stuff.Greg on "rough boys"The airy "committment ring".
|
|
GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
|
|
|
Feb 20, 2013 - 06:51am PT
|
stuck up late puking all night... been falling so in love with Woodson lately, just quietely mostly by myself mostly pad-less on cruzer fun cracks (I hate carrying sh*t...). So cool to see all the history and learn what this area means to so many bad ass climbers.
Oh well back to dry heaving over a toilet. Can't wait to throw some TR's on a lot of these routes I hadn't seen or heard of in my few wanderings. Awesome.
|
|
| Messages 1 - 876 of total 876 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!