Cataviña,La Mysteriosa-Baja Beauty Kevin Worrall Climbing 95

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Messages 1 - 51 of total 51 in this topic
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 26, 2010 - 05:25pm PT
Kevin mentioned this excellent article recently on another Baja thread but it deserves its own. From Climbing August-September 1995.












Sure looks like some big, warm fun while the rain falls up here in Drizzletown!
go-B

climber
Revelation 7:12
Dec 26, 2010 - 07:24pm PT
From a 4X4 road trip to Baja, we passed by Cataviña in the late 1970's early 1980's, I called it, "Baja 500", FA?

We went to Bahia Tortugas and San Marcos, Scuba diving as well, never made it to Cabo like we planned, but had quite the trip!


Edit; The middle photo, there is a piece of loose flake on my lap that I pulled out of the crack on lead, I forgot about that!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2010 - 07:57pm PT
You have photos to go with all these tasty route names, right?!?
go-B

climber
Revelation 7:12
Dec 26, 2010 - 08:11pm PT
Cool photos Kev, and killer looking routes!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2010 - 08:16pm PT
Get a scanner fella! They are cheap for something that allows you to save and share your memories! You have a deep slidebox and the clock is ticking on the really old shots. It becomes automatic once you tweak the results a bit!
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Dec 27, 2010 - 11:42am PT
I remember this article. Very nice! Thanks for the post, Steve, and for the killer story and pics, Kevin.

The one shot of the Crystal Mountain Arete is beautiful, and that belay is heck-a-dynamic!
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Dec 27, 2010 - 11:46am PT
Kevin, isn't this also the place you found out about the aerodynamic characteristics of a levi jacket while wearing it? A funny story with a not so funny outcome if I remember right?
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 27, 2010 - 12:13pm PT
Thx for posting this.......

I will add to the "endless road trip guide" I am making for my retirement.

living is cheap in baja.

drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Dec 27, 2010 - 01:27pm PT
There's some buried treasure down there....

Kinda hard to get frothing surfers to stop there if gas isn't needed.
Punta Pequena or bust!
Best part of the (hwy) drive.

Thanks KW and SG!
all in jim

climber
Dec 27, 2010 - 03:18pm PT
That shot of the Crystal Mountain Arete is so cool! It has everything... the warm winter sun, a cool looking line, a great belay / sundeck, and a beautiful woman's butt (look at the rock behind the arete!)

Kevin, you should get a scanner if only to scan your incredible shot of Thomas Huber on the Salathe headwall, one of the best of all time.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Dec 27, 2010 - 05:11pm PT
This seems to be the location. Or at least pretty darn close. I think...

http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=217892262123461097139.00048d147095f50172cbc&ll=29.753424,-114.744022&spn=0.008383,0.012982&t=h&z=16&lci=com.panoramio.all

Looks like a cool place!
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Dec 27, 2010 - 05:19pm PT
...and when your tips are fried,
just keep on truckin.




Klimmer

Mountain climber
San Diego
Dec 28, 2010 - 01:12am PT
You guys are making me miss Baja.

How I miss Baja.

My bachelor's party was at Canon Tajo.

My children haven't even seen TJ yet.

I'm tired of staying out of Mexico because of the drug wars.

Great climbing, exploring, paragliding, surfing, diving and snorkeling, the list goes on and on.



I wish things would return to some normalcy down there. Well everywhere actually. The only real way to go now and to do so safely, is to go down in a large group or caravan. My wife and I used to drive all over the peninsula via my Toyota 4x4, just the 2 of us alone, and our equipment.

What is everyone's opinion on this concerning safety now in Baja and the frontera?
Juan Maderita

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Dec 28, 2010 - 02:23am PT
Klimmer,
This link provides the best answer on the safety of Mexico. Well, maybe just the funniest answer:
http://www.simplyvallarta.com/safety-of-mexico/

Otherwise, what Kevin said.
I'm at or near Cañón del Tajo a couple 1-2x per month and haven't heard of any robberies in several years.
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Dec 28, 2010 - 02:47am PT
Checking this thread... I was always psyched to see that place Kev!! I'd been to the Trono countless times and saw this article, I was also intrigued by what my Hatchett brothers had said as well. Cool to see my old friend (and employer at The Kona Bar and Grill) George Hoover in these pics!! If you run into him ever will you tell him Michael Paul sends his best!! Still love to check that place...Mi corazon es en Baja!!! :)
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Dec 28, 2010 - 09:48am PT
San Juanico.

Drive fast. Don't stop. Engage cloaking device, bring dogs, don't exude fear, have fun.

Catavina is beautiful and unique in the world. All of Baja, really.

There was a (semi)recent article about bouldering there. A few diamonds in the rough~ a Caveman meets Hueco kinda affair.


Keep searching.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Dec 29, 2010 - 03:28pm PT
Here's the video of the "Caveman meets Hueco" problem I mentioned.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DzAT9TDnyfo
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Dec 29, 2010 - 03:33pm PT
That's a gnarly looking problem, Jefe. A mantle top-out to boot!
Tendon

Boulder climber
Fort Collins, CO
Dec 29, 2010 - 05:37pm PT
Thats the best boulder in catavina. very very atypical.
We looked around for 5 days over the course of that trip.
Saw thousands and thousands of boulders.
10% can be climbed on, 5% might actually be worth climbing on,
and less than 1% of those climbs are worth the drive down there.

Tons of rocks but lots and lots of choss....just go to Jtree IMO.
Scole

Trad climber
San Diego
Jan 1, 2011 - 07:59pm PT
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2011 - 08:05pm PT
Ocotillo y quien sabe?
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Jan 1, 2011 - 11:17pm PT
Yeah that's a pretty baddass looking problem! :)
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Jan 2, 2011 - 02:22am PT
I've seen your awesome shot of this super arete Kevin, forgot the name but it looked 5 star!
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Jan 2, 2011 - 11:39am PT
Thanks for posting this Steve. My family has a home just over the mountain on the Cortez side. I've long been aware of the climbing over there but never actually had the time, opportunity or partners wiling to stop and check it out.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber
Will know soon
Jan 2, 2011 - 09:15pm PT
Catavina is truly beautiful....I think the blue palms are native only to that area of Mexico. One thing that was a little crazy while hiking, climbing around were the roaming cattle. Some had pretty good "racks". Kinda scary. :D
WBraun

climber
Jan 2, 2011 - 10:24pm PT
The Warbler is one of the most inspiring person I ever known.

He can sniff out new routes even blindfolded.

I'm so lucky I've been around him and his incredible positive energy ....
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Jan 2, 2011 - 10:37pm PT





You mean like this ^^^^ ;) palm grove? Hard to find. Random palms in the middle of Bum fuk Egypt- desert out near the mission east of Catavina?.

Extremely beautiful desert out there. Unique in the world. I love it.




Mr. E working a boulder problem at the "Oasis" as I call it.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber
Will know soon
Jan 2, 2011 - 11:24pm PT
Thanks for the info K. Warbler :D

Say, have you, Maidy or anyone been to Bahia de Los Angeles? A great stop on the highway thru the Baja Penninsula.
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Jan 2, 2011 - 11:40pm PT
Lynne- The only time I was in Bahia De Los Angeles was when I was a little kid. Most of what I remember was 100 miles of pot holes on the main highway which totally destroyed the boat trailer. Pebble beaches, big hermit crabs and lots of wind.

It's probably much much changed since then.

Warbler- I always wondered what the deal was with the burned trunks. These trees are way out in the middle of nowhere. Not near any highway. You can actually get to the mission from this spot but I hear it is a bit of a trek. There's a well in the middle full of fresh water. We used to haul a small water truck up there and fill it to haul back to Gonzaga back in the day..
Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber
Will know soon
Jan 3, 2011 - 12:52am PT
Guess we were just lucky on our trip. No stops going from SD to Bahia de L.A. Just Federale stops by 16 year olds with machine guns on the way back to the U.S. They searched our van but didn't take anything and were polite.

The biggest buzz I experienced was in San Quentin. We were on the huge beach there pretty much by ourselves when @ 3 truck loads of field workers pulled up, the guys jumped out and relaxed on the beach and took baths in the sea.

Dan went to get some beer. While he was gone about a dozen guys came up to talk.....it was a bit scary until I realized they did just want to talk.....practice their English and find out about the States.

They gave us fresh clams they dug up on the beach which they cracked open and put hot sauce on and some of their fav music tapes. I still have them.

I'd love to go back down Highway 1 (is it ?) I think once you get past Ensenada it would be ok. Am I wrong?
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Jan 3, 2011 - 12:59am PT
Warbler: This might be the same arroyo you looked down on from above. You can access it from the east side. Some people use it as a jumping off point to hike up the steep drainage to the mission but I hear the hike is arduous and the old trail is so eroded it is difficult to find these days. Swimming hole is also accessible from here but I've never been to it or the mission. Both are definitely on the hit list.

There's a second well, closer to the ocean by Papa Fernandez's that was built by the missionaries in the 18th century that is also still in use. It is a lot farther away but was much easier to access with pack animals so it was the main water source for the missionaries. Must have taken a week to get down and back with water. Hard to imagine given the temperament of the warmer months down there.

Personally- I've never had any issues with bandits or federales. I did have a military guy kinda help himself to a couple of items during a search, but nothing of real value. A climbing partner of mine was rousted out of her campsite (near San Quintin) in the night and robbed at knife point, but they didn't hurt her physically. A (Baja/Gonzaga) neighbor had his truck stolen at gunpoint after a failed attempt to steal an airplane ended with them needing an escape vehicle. Never saw the truck again. I guess I've been lucky, but its been a lot of years since I've done any long road trips down there.
Steve Gade

climber
Los Osos, CA
Jan 8, 2011 - 07:24pm PT
I have been driving through for years on my way down to surf. This area about 6 miles ESE of Catavina has always looked promising. Anybody ever poked around up here? I figure the entire ridge is around 1000ft tall.

I was not able to upload so here is a link to the picture

http://www.mountainproject.com/images/52/50/107005250_large_946a08.jpg
Double D

climber
Jan 9, 2011 - 02:27am PT
Kevin my friend
..you rock!

Steve...thanks for posting. Great read.
Steve Gade

climber
Los Osos, CA
Jan 9, 2011 - 08:44pm PT
Here's the end of the same ridge. Thanks for the encouragement, Warbler. I'll have to sacrifice a few days of surf to broaden my horizons.
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Jan 10, 2011 - 10:42pm PT
Baja bump
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Jan 11, 2011 - 08:51pm PT
Uhhh, Steve Gade's pics looks to be promising....Holy!!!!!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2011 - 04:23pm PT
Mysterious bumps on the landscape...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2011 - 02:26pm PT
Hot Mysterious Bump...right about now!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2012 - 01:20pm PT
Fly Bump...
Scole

Trad climber
San Diego
Jan 22, 2012 - 12:15pm PT
Kevin

April sounds good to me. Maybe a little late, but that's when I have the time.Ever check out the crags to the S.W.? It looks like some bigger stuff way off in the distance.
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Jan 22, 2012 - 01:11pm PT
That "bigger stuff" is invariably crumbling shale death-cliffs. Meh.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Feb 14, 2013 - 11:11pm PT
Bump!



A ways south of Catavina, but Baja none the less.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Feb 14, 2013 - 11:31pm PT
cool.

If I'm correct, this is just a few miles into close to a hundred of dirt.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Feb 15, 2013 - 12:17am PT
Haven't been down since Dan boy went to heaven. Just talking today with the guys were I work (Nomad's) and people are still saying how dangerous Mexico is right now.

Is It? If you get thru TJ and Ensenada would it be ok. Naturally you have to be aware as in years past. I miss Mexico.....
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2014 - 12:07pm PT
Vamonos al sur...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2014 - 12:19pm PT
Winter climbing bump...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2015 - 10:58am PT
Bump for ze famous McNugget...
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Nov 8, 2015 - 03:18pm PT
not that it matters but um.... thats funny stuff'.'.'.' ,Rudy McMoody,,Buttshot Macnugget,
Darcy McDonald, haha heehee
oh the poor poor boy how will he live it down ?
climbing' like a goyle... still ripped' & tearing it down! it looks good on him too!!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 17, 2016 - 12:15pm PT
Worrall for all bump...
Fossil climber

Trad climber
Atlin, B. C.
Dec 17, 2016 - 02:28pm PT
Damn, I hate to see those beautiful wild boulders punched full of bolts! It's one thing when bolts are far enough off the ground so they aren't obvious, but on these they will be right in your face. I expect you could top rope a lot of these and save the hardware.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jul 21, 2018 - 06:35pm PT
best bump, longing for a Warbler song
Messages 1 - 51 of total 51 in this topic
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