classic valley 10 and unders

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yosemite hopeful

Intermediate climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 4, 2003 - 08:55am PT
please let me know of any classic routes in the valley at and under 5.10. i'll be there for a short time and i'd like to make the most of it. thanks.
DS

Novice climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2003 - 10:51am PT
hmmm...you might consider purchasing the guidebook for sale on this very site titled "Yosemite Ultra Classics".

If you don't want topos for the routes you plan on climbing, you can atleast see a large list of classics organized by grade at the page above.

DS

Novice climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2003 - 10:52am PT
forgot to included the link...

Yosemite Ultra Classics
DS

Novice climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2003 - 10:55am PT
ugh!!! For some reason HTML tags are not working in these anymore.

Here ya go.

http://www.supertopo.com/packs/ultraclassics.html
yosemite hopeful

Intermediate climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2003 - 07:41pm PT
i could do that...but it costs money...which i dont have. it would also take time to look through and having you delve through your experiences saves me time and brings back good memories(hopefully).
missing in action

Novice climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2003 - 09:46pm PT
east buttress of middle cathedral(rated 10c but that section is extremely short and very well bolted.) nutcracker. reeds direct(epitome of valley crack climbing)
east buttress of el cap(also rated 10b but the 10b section is very short.)
JJ

Novice climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2003 - 11:17pm PT
Here are some good classics, mostly 10s. They all have star ratings in Reid's Guidebook (or at least most).

5.8
Little John Right
Cid's Embrace

5.9
Lancelot
Absolutely Free, Center
Northeast Buttress Higher Cathedral (long)
Steck-Salathe (long)
Chingando (yeah yeah 10a, but don't listen to anybody, the OW moves are 5.9)
Sacherer Cracker (Same as Chingando)

10a:
Free Press
Henly Quits
Renus Wrinkle (variation start to the ultra extream classic Nutcracker)
Reeds Direct (make sure you do the 3rd pitch)
Crack of Doom (north facing)

10b:
Jo Jo
Moby Dick Right (a.k.a. Ahab)

10c:
Waverly Wafer
Meat Grinder
Sherrie's Crack
Midterm
Stoner's Highway (long and north facing)
Nowhere Man (if you're bored)

10d:
Skinheads
Ying-Yang (North Facing, but not too chilly)
Twilight Zone
10.96
Hard
Steppin' Out
The Good Book (rock-fall activity 2001 season...)

Have fun! ;)
Trad4life

Advanced climber
The Valley
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2003 - 12:00am PT
Yosemite hopeful - what a worthless piece of sh#t you are. Can't buy a guide, don't have the time to look through a copy at the Mtn. shop - you just want everything handed to you, don't you you ignorant f*#k? What's the matter with you - your gay lover left you and now you're turning tricks behind dumpsters in Fresno to scrum up enough $$$ to climb in the valley and act all bitchin? Get a life and stay home nobody wants to see you.

bob

Novice climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2003 - 12:57am PT
nice.


Advanced climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2003 - 01:35am PT
TradwithNOlife- holy christ dude, shut up. did you not read the post where dude said he wanted experiences.. instead, you vomit your fecal, er, grey matter on the guy who just asked a question. You were so obscene that you aren't even believable in your hate and sound more like a literate donny or an english speaking paco, which you probably are. Yes, I'm anonymous, KMA.
Trad4life

Advanced climber
The Valley
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2003 - 02:03am PT
KMA f*#k you. He wanted experiences...sure he wanted that, but he also wanted info readily found in a guidebook...you know you asswipe...books - or are you really as stupid as your vacuous stare indicates? My hatred? Yes for pathetic subhuman turds like you I am. Why don't you invite him climbing so you can felch on belay ledges. Give me a break and KISS MY ASS you f*#king worthless sack of sh#t. Thought you were clever didn't you? You probably blow the valley rangers to promote access...
Bob

Novice climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2003 - 03:06am PT
Nice list JJ. Midterm is 10b, all time classic. Don't miss Gripper, and the first three pitches of New Dimensions (10b, 10a, 10a). Hardd is 11b (first pitch 11a).
W Thin

Novice climber
Cookie Cliff
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2003 - 07:17am PT
Wheat Thin...
DS

Novice climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2003 - 11:04am PT
I certainly didn't mean you should buy a guidebook you can't afford. However, lists of classic Yosemite 5.10 and unders can be found all over the place with just a little bit of searching.

As I mentioned, the list of climbs included in Yosemite Ultra Classics is good.

Tuan has a good one as well...

http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/info/yosemite/easy.html
Nor Cal

Novice climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2003 - 12:01pm PT
Jam Crack 5.7/5.9, follow the crowds.
Bishops Terrace 5.8, follow the beta page and do it in one pitch.
Reeds Direct 5.9/10a, be preparded to be schooled.
Ejesta 5.8, good route, no crowds
Positivley 4th Street, watch for posion oak on the approach.
Key Stone Corner 5.8, you'd be a fool not to toss a rope on five and dime.
Highway Star 10a, you can top rope this one.

There are lots more, this should get you started.
H8er

Novice climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2003 - 01:16pm PT
trad4life is not from the valley he wants you to think he is from. he is from the central valley(armpit) of ca. he has no penis, but can climb to some degree.(ok ok ok, to a high degree) so therefore we must forgive his teretz-like outbursts....you dont hate someone because they are mentaly retarded...right? swo lets all give trad4life a big hug and call it good. there there kid. we still love ya. keep yer chin up B.
KMA

Advanced climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2003 - 01:33pm PT
Hello dork, because I'm feeling sorry for you, I'll cut you some slack. Felch on belay ledges? Blow rangers for access? I wouldn't want your sloppy seconds, even if I didn't blow. These homophobic references make me wonder about you... If you need to practice your 'access' you can always look me up, I like 'em fiesty... otherwise, climb back into your trailer, crack a natty ice and shut the f*#k up.
Karl Baba

Novice climber
Yosemite
Jan 5, 2003 - 11:45pm PT
Somebody who is requesting climbs 5.10 and under probably shouldn't be getting recommendations like

Twilight Zone (for Hardman chubby-chasers)
10.96 (burly)
Hard (hello, 5.11)
Steppin' Out (rapped past it after doing independence pinnacle center, looked like the hardest 10d I'd ever seen)

Maybe 10d is too hard in general for somebody who wants 10 and under, but at least recommend the 10d for mortals like Serenity Crack

PS. Not knocking JJ. Thanks for the list, there's a couple there I haven't done and will put on my list

Karl
Trad4life

Advanced climber
The Valley
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2003 - 11:56pm PT
KMA- Well you certainly are a wealth of knowledge - a little too well actually. Cut me some slack ha! F*#K YOU you worthless excuse for a human being. Not surprised you care for the rangers company - so you actually admit to it. Now your true worthlessness is exposed. When I see you I'm gonna put a bullet in your head motherf*#ker...so choke on this. To the Yosemite hopefull go get your own f*#king experiences you poser, mine aren't for you to know. Everyone else, why patronize this imbecell? Let him go to the Valley and figure it out for himself. What's next gear lists for every friggin route so it's color by numbers? F*#k! What the f*#k? F*#k all you f*#king f*#kers, go f*#king f*#k your f*#king selves.
your mom

Novice climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2003 - 01:23am PT
Dear Trad4life,
I ought to wash you mouth out with soap.
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