Bob Scarpelli appreciation Thread

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 1 - 36 of total 36 in this topic
dogtown

Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 9, 2010 - 03:33am PT
Bob Scarpelli on his route Squat 12B
Bob Scarpelli on his route Squat 12B
Credit: dogtown
No climber has had as large an impact on Vedauwoo climbing as Scarpelli. Bob has just dominated the crag for decades. Defiantly at the top of the food chain in the wide.

Dawg.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Dec 9, 2010 - 06:27am PT
Sweet guy too, one that any gal would love to bring home to meet mom.
Fluoride

Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
Dec 9, 2010 - 06:34am PT
I'm in. Don't know him personally but know of him and he's a climbing God.

And a damn good OW one at that.

So PROPS Bob. Keep on keeping on as they say.

However though, our wonderful Pamela has done some serious damage at Vedawoo. She's the sh#t but without talent like Bob blazing the way, would it be possible? Yeah...she'd still send it but props to the man who owns offwidths and keeps us in check. OW's rule! Cheers to a trailblazer Bob. Offwidths are things many people recoil from.

Good to see you posting dogtown. Love ya man. We need to rope up again soon.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Dec 9, 2010 - 12:20pm PT
The man is legend!
No idle comment, I've known hims since before he liked Offwidth.
"Everything here is Smearing or offwidth, I hate this place," Bob, on the .10a Yosemite OW tour, 1978.
He got over it, and became the best, even if he never got up lucille, hee hee. And I'm proud to have played my part in leading him to the dark side.

Guy can fistjam, badass Moma!
And he has met my mom, Jim.

is this his birthday? I always thought he was cracked from the Cosmic egg.
Bob Soloing pitch one of Elephant man, Indian Creek
Bob Soloing pitch one of Elephant man, Indian Creek
Credit: Jaybro






We're all, in Awe!

Credit: Ed Hartouni
Credit: Jaybro

Credit: Jaybro
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Dec 9, 2010 - 01:34pm PT
Thump
Larry

Trad climber
Bisbee
Dec 9, 2010 - 01:49pm PT
I haven't talked with Bob in decades, ever since I left Wyoming. But I really appreciate Bob.

Never was a climber so well matched to an area. His idea of a good climb is one that gives "good value" -- maximum number of moves in minimum space.

The first time I ever climbed with him, in '76, we did Fantasia. I led. I think that was the last time he ever followed me on an OW.

It's not well known that Bob was an alpinist and ice climber. I remember arriving at the Bradley/Taggart trailhead, in December dark. We were headed for the East Ridge of the Grand. We heard on the radio that the Soviets had invaded Afghanistan. Due to conditions, we were not successful. Neither were the Soviets.

Before I owned a car, he'd drive down from Jackson to Green River to pick me up, take me back to Jackson to climb for a weekend, then drive me back. What a guy!

Thanks for everything, Bob.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Dec 9, 2010 - 01:55pm PT
Climbing Mag number 187 or 178...one with the Bird on the cover, Luebben's OW article. Had a blurb on Bob...at the time I would avoid any wide cracks like the plague. But that article made me reconsider...I mean these wide things were the realm of the REAL hardmen, and Bob sounded like a superhero.

Then many years later I went to Vedauwoo...then I KNEW Bob is a superhero.

Takeda article was awesome.
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Dec 9, 2010 - 02:07pm PT
Bob is the smartest, nicest, and burliest guy I know.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Dec 9, 2010 - 02:10pm PT
Bob, are you posting on the Larry's computer?
scuffy b

climber
Three feet higher
Dec 9, 2010 - 02:50pm PT
"If those guys are toproping Bad Girl's Dream, tell them I'm gonna kick
their asses."
dogtown

Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 9, 2010 - 03:05pm PT
Friday the 13th.
Friday the 13th.
Credit: dogtown
Process of belief. <br/>
Process of belief.

Credit: dogtown
Flouride, Hi Baby!
It's good to be back in a way? Took a break and went surfing. And came back at just the right time we have had awesome summer and fall. We climbed yesterday. Itís 56 degrees today. In December? Thatís not even heard of!! Around here. I have only met Bob a few times. Tuff Guy. His shear power is something to behold. One thing else I noticed this summer and fall all the hard stuff some old dude was leading it. I didn't mean you Bob. HA, HA. The place is so fun! OK. Iíll shut up.

Dawg
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Dec 9, 2010 - 03:16pm PT
Jaybro said
"Bob, are you posting on the Larry's computer?"

lol I haven't seen Bob in a couple of years.

He did threaten to punch me in the nose if I didn't make it to the liquor store on our way back from Indian Creek once.

I wasn't about to find out if he was joking or not. I made it there in the nick of time.

Tell Bob I said "hi" if you see him.
john bald

climber
Dec 9, 2010 - 03:16pm PT
Bob, I can remember the night we shivered together in the Canadian Rockies. More fun doing the OW curcuit in the Valley with you. Thanks for the good times!... John
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Dec 9, 2010 - 05:21pm PT
I wish Bob really would hijack somebodie's computer, he has a unique mind and would no doubt have some interesting things to say. Just his version of Eeeyonkee's plunge from Generator crack alone would make it worth it!

I haven't been in touch with him since August '09. i believe Dingus McGee is in touch with him though.
slabbo

Trad climber
fort garland, colo
Dec 9, 2010 - 05:57pm PT
Bob would need a touch screen computer for SURE. His paws would not fit a keyboard.
Met him around '83 or so at , where else Horn's Mother. He was cutting away a rap sling at the top using a rock.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Dec 18, 2010 - 12:00am PT
Double thump,
Credit: Odub
Captain...or Skully

Big Wall climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
Dec 18, 2010 - 10:06am PT
Proud shot.

Respect to a true Master.
telemon01

Trad climber
Montana
Nov 14, 2012 - 06:28pm PT

I saw the movie Wide Boyz last night, and I was as impressed with Bob Scarpelli (his age and his size)as I was with the two Brits.


Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Nov 14, 2012 - 06:44pm PT
I thought Bob had the best lines and the most interesting material in that segment in reel rock. And it's all Bob. If you know him you know thats the way he expresses himself. It can't be scripted.
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Nov 14, 2012 - 07:07pm PT
The Takeda article in Alpinist 20 was great! Pete has jacked his site up and all the links are dead that pointed to this article. Bummer. I remember that in the article Bob said something to the effect of "...be sure they understand that I'm not on anti-depressants. They are anti-psychotics."

Love that!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Nov 14, 2012 - 08:01pm PT
The article went on to say how Bob, psyching up to repeat Squat after 20 odd years weaned himself off the anti-psychotics so he'd be maximally aggro the day of the climb!
Edit: I wouldn't have menyioned any of that, but it was in the mag for all to read.

If you see the reel rock bit, Brad takes a huge whipper out of squat, almost hitting the ground. They must have told him not to place pro, or clip the bolts. Total theatre, but it makes a good action sequence!
dogtown

Trad climber
Cheyenne, Wyoming and Marshall Islands atoll.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2012 - 08:53pm PT
Hey all,

Didnít see Bob this summer at the crag hope things are well. Could you imagine Scarpelli Long and Gaines as a wall trio? burl to the max!

Dawg.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Nov 14, 2012 - 09:19pm PT
I ran into him a bunch of times in Vedauwoo summer of 2011, only there for Vedauwoo sushi fest this year. No Bob that week. But dingus had been interacting with him I think.
Master of Kludge

Trad climber
Grizzly Gulch, WY
Nov 14, 2012 - 09:48pm PT
We may start seeing more of Bob in the out and about sense. Bob's hourly job income will not cut into his social security benefits so he soon or by now will have more disposable income. He told me this would mean much more travel for him on longer weekends. I think his van is up & running.

Bob has an email address and knows the basics of using the internet. But he doesn't read his emails on a regular basis. I send him links occasionally that he perhaps would like to browse and we sometimes about 'em weeks later.

Unknown to most climbers Bob's most spectacular climb is not in Vedauwoo but in the North Laramie Range.

See:http://www.mountainproject.com/v/gibbs-canyon-rock/107470520

The climb is What the Big Boys Eat.

What the Big Boys Eat
What the Big Boys Eat
Credit: Master of Kludge

Scarpelli's What the Big Boys Eat on the Gibbs Canyon Rock
Scarpelli's What the Big Boys Eat on the Gibbs Canyon Rock
Credit: Master of Kludge

The route appears either to be on private property or right next to the boundary line. The nearby ranch has evicted a few climbers. But in Wyoming you pay the "trespassing fee" and you have permission. As I have heard the ranch does outfitting for elk hunting so they might accept a trespassing fee. You will have to ask 'em.
Greg Epperson

climber
Joshua Tree
Nov 14, 2012 - 11:43pm PT
Credit: Greg Epperson

Bob and Pete Takeda exploring new ground, September 2006.
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Nov 15, 2012 - 12:31am PT
I heard that he climbed a route that Noel and I put up in the South Platte and liked it.
Allen Hill

Social climber
CO.
Nov 15, 2012 - 12:56am PT
The big roof under the Cynical Pinnacle Olaf? That thing made me puke warm beer from the night before when I hit the lip. I wish i could think of the name of it. Absolutely the type of route I tend to avoid. I think Bob likely climbed it with either or both Grossman and Lubben. Drop an email sometime so we can catch up.
slabbo

Trad climber
fort garland, colo
Nov 15, 2012 - 10:44am PT
If i remember Big Boys requires SIX #3.5 friends.it must be pretty hard 'cause called it "maybe 5.12" BITD
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Nov 16, 2012 - 12:28am PT
I stopped to look at it summer of 2011. Looks very cool indeed! If you come from the east you don't see the "no trespassing" signs.....
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Nov 16, 2012 - 07:47am PT
I think's he's a big pussy and you can tell him I said that.

 Phantom X (posting as eeyonkee)
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Nov 16, 2012 - 08:20am PT
Ha ha!

Do you know his birthday kludge? I've seen his drivers lic and know the year.
slabbo

Trad climber
fort garland, colo
Nov 16, 2012 - 11:07am PT
I too have seen his "papers' still not too sure about his driving ability though !
Phantom X

Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
Nov 18, 2012 - 10:00pm PT
Bob S., In reference to the above post by Eeeonkee I didn't say anything of the sort. This is a cowardly cowardly thing to do as well as very juvenial and I can't explain his actions. I kinda wish I had thought of it. By the way I did hear someone, I don't remember who, say that Eeeonkee is a big pussy (unlike you and me) but I can't remember who. "Eeeonkee is a big pussy and you can tell him I said that. My name is Bob S." Yes, now I'm starting to remember.
scaredycat

Trad climber
Berkeley,CA
Nov 19, 2012 - 12:12am PT
God I wish I were part of the in crowd on this thread, but hey: I'm not. Cool, nonetheless.
Master of Kludge

Trad climber
Grizzly Gulch, WY
Nov 19, 2012 - 08:32am PT
Everyone can appreciate a tale of Adventure but may not like hearing their son did just that. Bob's first great solitary adventure to do what he wanted was not going to the Royal Robbins Climbing School or some Cashious Clay Sparing School. Nope, from the sounds of things, he was allured to this non Wyoming sport by the minstrels of the day.

It all begin with a burning desire driven by the beat of these groups' rhythm and maybe some movies? At 14 a stolen car got 'em headed in the right direction but without a drivers license, no money, it was gas and go for the 1300 mile drive. Sometimes these impulse adventures end short. This one did in Las Vegas. The police caught this young gas and go offender and because of his vowed silence they had no idea who he was but they brought him food each day. His parents didn't think he was missing but just roaming so there was no missing person info on him. Sooner than later Mr. Bob realized the jailers didn't care whatsoever about his withholding of his name. He could be there for weeks. They just didn't CARE and they were not going to let 'em go without knowing his name. Promptly after receiving the call Papa Frank Scarpelli motored to Sin City for his son had had a serious Wipeout.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Nov 19, 2012 - 08:40am PT
Hmm makes my roadtrips with Bob, trips to Jackson, trips beyond the greenie border,the Yosemite 5.10a ow tour, and subsequent valley .10c ow tour, (both mid- late 70's) etc sound tame!


....hmmm, I seem to remember a story about a roadtrip a guy took in a "Mustang painted international orange that passed everything but gas stations"....
Messages 1 - 36 of total 36 in this topic
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Trip Report and Articles
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews