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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Nov 18, 2010 - 09:35am PT
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I spent a week hanging under the Molar in a major storm. It included lots of icefall. We were somewhat protected and it was still scary as hell, and we took some hits. Someone mentioned the "frisbee" effect. That was our experience, the big plates would swim around in the air and it wasn't very safe anywhere.
Good luck fellas.
Hammer, meet thumb.....
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FrankZappa
Trad climber
80' from the Hankster
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Nov 18, 2010 - 09:40am PT
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What about that ledge at the top of the Bismark? I seem to remember it as being a lot more sheltered. It is just around the corner from where the pitch above wino zigs left. I'm not sure how easy it is to get there (we just lowered around the corner because we were going the other direction while climbing Space.)
But agree with Pete to some extent; if you have fixed lines at least you can zip out if the going gets too tough.
Really, really cool free route though. I hope you guys get it done!
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onyourleft
climber
Smog Angeles
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Nov 18, 2010 - 09:44am PT
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This does not appear to be an insignificant storm.
Every weather center in the region is predicting a memorable event.
Here's an animation from the NWS Hanford office with specific references to Yosemite:
http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/hnx/local_text/embrief.wmv
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murcy
climber
sanfrancisco
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Nov 18, 2010 - 10:02am PT
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Like Clint said, I don't really see a big difference in ethics or accomplishment between a free ascent with an unplanned break hunkering down in a ledge for days and one where, while you have hauled enough crap to do that, you instead take an unplanned break to sit out a storm safely off the wall with less risk to yourselves and to YOSAR. That's very different from a siege.
Either way, you two are pushing the envelope amazingly.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Nov 18, 2010 - 11:01am PT
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Bail now, while the bailing is good
whether climbing or bailing, they're going to have to wait for sun and/or warmth, so whatever ice is there, will be coming down
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Nov 18, 2010 - 11:44am PT
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I get that they've put a lot of work into this attempt, but El Cap doesn't really care what a baddass you are.
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 18, 2010 - 11:46am PT
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... with less risk to yourselves and to YOSAR
There's nobody left here right now only a few rangers.
We'd be fuked .....
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gap index
Big Wall climber
Sumner, Wa
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Nov 18, 2010 - 12:00pm PT
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I got stuck in a late winter storm on pitch 6 in 1994. The storm was pretty exciting throwing our ledges all over the place. We laughed, drank wine and screamed into the storm all night. When the weather looked better we started climbing again. Mid morning the sun came out and started melting the ice that had accumulated on the upper 1/3 of the wall. It was the scariest thing I have experienced climbing. 1 to 3 foot plates of ice started falling on us and exploding, hundreds of them. We got down with only minor bruises.
I don't know if wino tower is high enough to be out of the potential ice fall zone.
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Nedflang
Big Wall climber
Yosemite
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Nov 18, 2010 - 02:09pm PT
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Tell those bone heads to bail now, nothing to gain sitting this storm out
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Nov 18, 2010 - 02:44pm PT
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A "Winter Storm Warning" is being forecast up here in Hood River, Oregon. It seems like this might be a big storm. Bailing seems to be the safe this to do.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Nov 18, 2010 - 02:57pm PT
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mercury dropping,
Get In The Chopper!
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Nov 18, 2010 - 02:57pm PT
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Doing this route to-date has involved a series of comings and goings to work the line. And this current attempt involves significant caching for planned breaks / rests versus a continuous NIAD-style push. Given that, and the mindboggling difficulty of the endeavor, I'd say sitting out the storm on the ground and re-ascending shouldn't detract from the ascent - if it's felt it does, then perhaps another time.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Nov 18, 2010 - 03:46pm PT
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Time to come down. Start over later. This will only add to the epic story of this climb when it finally goes.
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onyourleft
climber
Smog Angeles
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Nov 18, 2010 - 03:58pm PT
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NWS is predicting over 5 inches of precipitation in the Sierra over the next five days:
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Nov 18, 2010 - 04:12pm PT
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Tommy and Kevin are world class mountaineers and can make their own decisions and will be respected by most of us whatever they decide.
But come on taco stand. In the words of WBraun (repeated here for humor only):
There's something seriously wrong with this forum.
WTF happened to this place?
pussies .....
What BullSh#t are all these analysts here?
I would imeadiately have thrown my monitor at him and kicked him in the fuking head.
What a bunch of fuking pussies in that office.
Is that your office?
How high up is that office? I would have thrown him out the window to the street below.
Fuk this sh'it ......
Just wait till you pull on the real stuff. It's divine.
And there's lots and lots of women climbers out there in the world.
They will take over the world, because the men are becoming pussies.
This is in no way meant to convince them to do something stupid (like I said they are experienced and smart enough to make their own decision), it just seems everyone here is so quick to throw in the towel. Don't cutting edge alpine climbers face risks like this daily? Didn't Tommy stare down the barrel of an AK47?
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Nov 18, 2010 - 04:22pm PT
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Yes Fet. Others have been through this in the same area this same time of year. And KJ and TC knew there would be at least one of these fronts coming this time of year during their 10-day plan up there. And the storm is not a particularly tough one; it just isn't.
As Charlie Porter used to say, "If you wait around for the weather to get good, you won't do shit"
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Beatrix Kiddo
Mountain climber
ColoRADo
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Nov 18, 2010 - 04:47pm PT
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Now this is a great ST thread!!! Can't wait to see what they decide.
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Gene
Social climber
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Nov 18, 2010 - 05:24pm PT
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Winter storm warning for Yosemite
Statement as of 11:03 am PST on November 18, 2010
... Winter Storm Watch remains in effect from Friday evening
through Sunday afternoon above 6000 feet...
A Winter Storm Watch above 6000 feet remains in effect from
Friday evening through Sunday afternoon for the higher elevations
of the southern Sierra Nevada.
* Snow accumulations: one to three feet are possible above 6000
feet.
* Elevation: above 6000 feet.
* Timing: snow beginning over higher elevations Saturday
morning.Periods of heavy snow will occur most of the weekend
before decreasing late Sunday.
* Locations include: Lodgepole... Shaver Lake
* winds: south winds 25 to 30 mph with gusts to 65 mph over
higher peaks and the crest on Friday evening and Saturday
increasing to 30 to 40 mph with gusts to 75 mph on Sunday.
* Impacts: heavy snow may cause travel delays or Road closures.
Blowing and drifting snow with local whiteout conditions are
possible above 7000 feet.
Precautionary/preparedness actions...
A Winter Storm Watch means there is a potential for significant
snow and strong winds. Continue to monitor the latest forecasts.
http://weather.modbee.com/US/CA/Yosemite_National_Park.html#ixzz15fsRKaDR
If they ride it out, how long do any of you think it will take for the rock to be dry enough to attempt?
Daytime temps are forecast to be above freezing, with temps below freezing at night. So any daytime runoff/melt will freeze at night.
Wishing the best to KJ and TC.
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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Nov 18, 2010 - 05:28pm PT
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I think somebody on this forum should go up and talk to those two.
It would probably be a good time to discuss their route ethics too. :)
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