Discussion Topic |
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 14, 2010 - 12:57pm PT
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They began yesterday and got through to the start of Pitch 7. They are going for an all-free continuous ground-up ascent. Here is Kevin's blog reporting in every day:
http://kjorgeson.blogspot.com/2010/11/here-we-go.html
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Port
Trad climber
San Diego
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Nov 14, 2010 - 01:13pm PT
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awesome! Good luck!
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Nov 14, 2010 - 01:18pm PT
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This is so fricken wild! I hope they do it.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2010 - 01:29pm PT
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Marko, you know, if they are now at the point they will try to send, these very very powerful and ridiculously hardworking climbers will either get it done or awfully near done, having freed all the parts to the puzzle. Who would have thought, you know.....
I think this is one of the great examples of climbing imagination.
I can't get over Dale Bard talking about holding Tommy as a newborn 14" baby BITD 1978.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Nov 14, 2010 - 01:35pm PT
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Are they planning to lead and follow the whole thing? The website doesn't really make that clear. In this day and age I suspect they will.
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hollyclimber
Big Wall climber
Yosemite, CA
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Nov 14, 2010 - 01:37pm PT
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If the camp is stashed at P8 as per blog, how did they sleep last night?
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Nov 14, 2010 - 01:39pm PT
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Not to change the subject but with this good weather in the Valley, are Potter and Leary going to go back up on the Nose?
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Nov 14, 2010 - 02:10pm PT
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Ah, man...they beat me to it!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 14, 2010 - 03:15pm PT
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Why are they grinding it up, and where are they sending it? :-)
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Nov 14, 2010 - 04:28pm PT
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Ho, hum, just another send for these guys. Kevin's blog photo doesn't even mention a single pitch that's truly hard for these guys: nothing at 5.15 or even 14+. And besides, they've got Tribal Rite, Reticent, Sea, and on and on to dust off in future years....and they haven't even begun to work on the hard routes on Half Dome.
Un-freakin-believable. I am absolutely in total awe and appreciation to see such class acts inspiring our appreciation of what a human being - if indeed they are - can do. With the 3rd of Southern Belle just having been fired, it's a hell of a time for that boring old climbed out Valley. How many times have we heard that? Damn, great time to be alive and following what's going on in climbing.
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Gene
Social climber
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Nov 14, 2010 - 07:36pm PT
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Yeah. Right! I lack the imagination to even think that this can be done free. Good luck, Guys. Drag us old farts into the 21st Century.
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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Nov 14, 2010 - 07:44pm PT
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This topo says volumes:
Just wow! What an amazing amount of work, I wish them the best in the reward of their efforts.
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 14, 2010 - 07:52pm PT
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How many "Dawn Walls" are there?
Don't look like Dawn Wall to me .... ?
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Nov 14, 2010 - 07:58pm PT
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Werner come on thats the Mesca-adrift-areticent-early morning-dawn wall Sheesh :)
Wishing these guys all the best in thier efforts.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Nov 14, 2010 - 08:12pm PT
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Good luck, fellas.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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Nov 14, 2010 - 08:15pm PT
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Curious, if the free the formally nailing sections of this hybrid route is it then off limits to any future aiding other than clean? Seems like it would have to be to preserve the now free climb. Comments?
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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
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Nov 14, 2010 - 08:21pm PT
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There are a lot of 5.13 & 5.14 pitches in there! I'd be bustin' out the aiders, for sure!
Thor
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Slakkey
Big Wall climber
From Back to Big Wall Baby
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Nov 14, 2010 - 08:25pm PT
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Agree just a slight variation of the Dawn Wall but still very impressive for sure.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Nov 15, 2010 - 12:51am PT
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Is their next route Leo's new one????
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 15, 2010 - 01:23am PT
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good luck to the team!
what a wonderful vision of climbing...
and even though WH Murray attributed this phrase to Goethe (who didn't write it), it is a wonderful sentiment anyway:
“Whatever you do, or dream you can, begin it. Boldness has genius and power and magic in it.”
Here's to boldness!
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Nov 15, 2010 - 11:06am PT
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This is a great feat! (bump)
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TitaniumTendons
Trad climber
FC, CO
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Nov 15, 2010 - 11:58am PT
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Just a quick question about what it means to "free" a route. Does that mean that both climbers climb the entire route without falling once? Or does it just mean that the leader (on whatever pitch) leads the pitch without falling? Can they not fall at all? Or if they fall, can they restart the pitch and try again to get it clean?
Basically, does it mean that both climbers don't fall once after leaving the ground, or does it just mean that each pitch has to be led cleanly?
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Nov 15, 2010 - 12:04pm PT
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Another historic send in the making, very cool. Its been a good year.
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426
climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Nov 15, 2010 - 12:29pm PT
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TT-Freeing means different things to different people...Huber used to lead all pitches for "free". Skinner and Piana led pitches but didn't follow each other totally clean (iirc). Caldwell led all of Magic Mushroom and other walls...
From the interview in Climbing it looks like both climbers will be freeing on this bad boy...their goal being to lead and and TR clean...whoa
you can lower to the anchor and pull the rope if you botch. The twitter feed makes some mention of some "slips"...
what an ambitious route! good on dem!
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TitaniumTendons
Trad climber
FC, CO
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Nov 15, 2010 - 12:43pm PT
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Damn- these guys are hardcore. Thanks for the info 426!
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nutjob
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Nov 15, 2010 - 01:27pm PT
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I can't help but smile that people are out there making reality out of things that I can't properly imagine or comprehend.
And it's not just the raw talent... It's really a testament to will power and persistence and integrity to follow through on a vision in the face of a daunting workload and obstacles. The old Nike slogan summed it up nicey: Just Do It. This is what I find really inspiring.
They focus their passion in a way that forces me to put the question to myself: what is stopping me from achieving the things I want to achieve?
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Nov 15, 2010 - 01:34pm PT
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Best wishes on what is already a stupendous unimaginable effort
Taking a somewhat different route could be a sign of refining the route because of the application of free climbing skill rather than sneaking around the hard parts. If the FA had the chops to free climb, they could have taken that line. Which route did nature more naturally put there from a climber's perspective?
PEace
Karl
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Brian
climber
California
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Nov 15, 2010 - 04:39pm PT
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I'd like to see Tommy send this rig as much as I'd like to see any project (other than my own) go down. Best of luck.
Brian
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Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
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Nov 15, 2010 - 09:01pm PT
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Here we get to see the very best that humans can accomplish. Makes me proud to be a (very over the hill) climber. The other side of human activity is on the news every day.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2010 - 09:08pm PT
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Here Here, Eric!! And I even hear your inimitable voice saying so, EB.
And as far as determination is concerned......this A4 route has seen 67 days now of preparation and training....the longest effort in days we have ever seen in the Valley, isn't it and over three seasons?
It is sometimes this kind of projecting that climbing now includes in its frontiers. And yes it is quite a bit different than the "ground-up, no falls, reach the top" kind of adventure ascents like we always aimed for up until the mid seventies. It is true this one is a pursuit of difficulty for its own sake but it is also so so much more than that and is in fact a huge adventure for them and for us on the ground vicariously. Their plan right now is to be on this thing for many days again doing the final continuous! It is 33 pitches long; they have been training on it for three years and now embark on a bottom to top continuous effort, hoping to put all that they have learned up there in parts, into an overwhelming vision of human effort and vision, of transcendency.
edit. And I guess from a competitive point of view, they sure as hell have left everyone else feeling flatfooted and light. So much horsepower here in this event.
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JOEY.F
Social climber
sebastopol
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Nov 15, 2010 - 09:59pm PT
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Probably was the perfect day for their trancendency.
Just unreal.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Nov 16, 2010 - 09:21am PT
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After seeing your post, Eric, I cannot help but point out that you started this 45 years ago. Cannot image that you and Frank had any idea it would come to this.
I can also add, that you and Frank set a new benchmark that led to the Nose being recently climbed in 14.783 seconds. I wonder why the Nose is still is grade VI? Ha.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2010 - 09:53am PT
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Roger, I think we have now a two-tiered system, you see--- I think downrating the Nose for these NIAD people is appropriate as otherwise the resulting chain reaction in the atmosphere, self-igniting as it would be, has to be headed off. And after all even nowadays the Nose can be a grade VII for some. So leveling the field of play is called for.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Nov 16, 2010 - 10:05am PT
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Hey Peter, I think there is a five tiered system for El Cap:
1. Normal climbing, normal times, normal epic adventures.
2. Very fast.
3. All free.
4. Completely agog.
5. Nonchalant acceptance: “Oh, that again? Ppppbbtttt! Tweet me when the times go negative."
I skipped tiers 2 and 3.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 16, 2010 - 10:12am PT
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This is just so cool.
Way back when I started climbing we could only dream of this going down.
I am glad I am still alive to watch this - no matter the outcome.
Pimp down boys.
Good luck.
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murcy
climber
sanfrancisco
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Nov 16, 2010 - 11:38pm PT
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Dunno if everyone interested is already following via twitter, but if I'm reading the twitter feed correctly, as of a few minutes ago they'd both climbed pitch 10 ("5.14b-ish") on their second tries, with Caldwell leading, and are moving onto 11 ("5.13d-ish").
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Swimming in LEB tears.
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Nov 16, 2010 - 11:43pm PT
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If we're going to say "ish" after every rating why not simply call them 13-, 13 and 13+? Seems more than a little silly. Epic first ascent of the "Ish Wall."
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Nov 17, 2010 - 01:27am PT
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Rad! What's their timeline on this...? I think some rain is coming in the near future. Of course they'll probably be way done by the weekend eh? It's hard for me to even wrap my brain around it. Good luck boys!
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murcy
climber
sanfrancisco
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Nov 17, 2010 - 01:40am PT
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No, they're slowing down as they hit the hardest pitches & plan to sit out the weather.
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onyourleft
climber
Smog Angeles
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Nov 17, 2010 - 02:05am PT
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Sitting out this weather may not be the smartest option.
From the NWS:
A PACIFIC STORM IS FORECAST TO DEVELOP LATE WEDNESDAY AND
INTO THURSDAY OFF OF THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST COAST. THIS SYSTEM WILL
PUSH A COLD FRONT SOUTH ACROSS THE REGION EARLY SATURDAY...WITH
THE MAIN AREA OF LOW PRESSURE REACHING CENTRAL CALIFORNIA SUNDAY.
PERIODS OF RAIN AND MOUNTAIN SNOW ARE EXPECTED TO BEGIN OVER
NORTHERN PORTIONS OF CENTRAL CALIFORNIA LATE FRIDAY AFTERNOON AND
SPREAD SOUTH OVER THE REST OF THE REGION FRIDAY NIGHT.
A BRIEF BREAK IN THE PRECIPITATION MAY OCCUR SOMETIME SATURDAY
MORNING OR AFTERNOON...BUT IT WILL INCREASE AGAIN LATE SATURDAY
OR EARLY SUNDAY AHEAD OF THE MAIN AREA OF LOW PRESSURE.
WHILE IT IS STILL TOO EARLY TO SAY HOW MUCH RAIN AND SNOW WILL
OCCUR WITH THIS SYSTEM...SIGNIFICANT AMOUNTS WILL BE POSSIBLE OVER
THE 3 DAY PERIOD FROM LATE FRIDAY THROUGH MONDAY.
TEMPERATURES WILL DROP SHARPLY FRIDAY THEN REMAIN BELOW NORMAL
THROUGH THE WEEKEND. THIS WILL BE THE COLDEST SYSTEM OF THE
SEASON THUS FAR OVER CENTRAL CALIFORNIA. PRESENT INDICATIONS ARE
FOR THE SNOW LEVEL TO DROP TO 3500 NEAR YOSEMITE
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nov 17, 2010 - 02:12am PT
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It sounds like they will have 2 days of good conditions, but wanted one day each for the series of 4 5.14 pitches.
It may not go in a single push this time; the route is definitely at the mercy of the weather (too hot or wet and it becomes undoable).
Still, they will get whatever they can until the weather or something else stops them or they finish it.
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squatch
Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
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Nov 17, 2010 - 02:42am PT
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here's a picture of pitch 10 for reference, it's really continously thin!
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Port
Trad climber
San Diego
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Nov 17, 2010 - 02:56am PT
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Sh#t that looks hard
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Nov 17, 2010 - 04:47am PT
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Yikes!! Best wishes mates!! :)
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Nov 17, 2010 - 04:57am PT
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sneak a beak,
don't drop it,
the stuff to the left of the crack looks tough also,
ungodliness, pestilence and vengence, the likes of which you have never seen before,
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DM88T
climber
San Juan Bautista, CA
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Nov 18, 2010 - 04:14pm PT
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cleo
Social climber
Berkeley, CA
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Nov 18, 2010 - 04:15pm PT
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^^^ What a beautiful shot!
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John Moosie
climber
Beautiful California
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Nov 18, 2010 - 04:20pm PT
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Wow! Thanks for posting that shot.
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Eric McAuliffe
Trad climber
Alpine County, CA
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Nov 19, 2010 - 03:07pm PT
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DUDES NEED TO GET DOWN! This storm is going to be gnarly. Hope ya'll get out safe!
PEACE
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nov 19, 2010 - 03:17pm PT
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Cool shot! (headlamps on the Molar Traverse)
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 19, 2010 - 03:23pm PT
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Love that photo too.
They will be alright up there, Pilgrims. People hanging out on this wall during weather has happened a bunch in the last 39 years. And the storm just is not that high-energy. I think they are planning it right. Hanging out lower in the Molar Traverse area instead of on Wino Tower is a good approach; it is much more protected there in that immense overhanging region and the roofettes of Molar T. They have two portaledges also which offers them backup if one gets ripped or fails somehow. And they are cached to the gills. This is not Caldwell's first barbecue neither. His dad Mike must be having flashbacks by now, to the time he was on the West Buttress in 1970 being rescued on the Grand Traverse with a partner who had an eye injury.
If you go and zoom in with the second image on this page(not with smartphones!)
http://www.xrez.com/case-studies/national-parks/yosemite-extreme-panoramic-imaging-project/
specifically:
http://www.xrez.com/yose_proj/yose_deepzoom/index.html
(choose the appropriate half-pie shape zoom origin and keep zooming in with the + sign or other tools at your disposable on your desktop, keeping the emerging image frame centered on your screen--- I know, weird interface and ugly/awkward way of getting into the zoom).
you will see how their spot will be actually really cool!! Earlier in these related posts I had no idea they had so much fixed rope to play with.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nov 19, 2010 - 03:51pm PT
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Peter,
The photo/video guys said on their page they were keeping their camp at p8
(while the Molar Traverse is p12).
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Big-UP-Productions/59327301280
So I think the headlamps in that photo are just Tommy and Kevin trying the pitch on Wednesday night.
p8 is not as sheltered as the Molar, but neither is fully protected from ice coming down in the wind. Or streams of runoff water.
It's a decent compromise, though. They would certainly be fine in rain and light wind.
Whether they get hit by ice or thrown around by wind, who knows.
I'm sure they have a plan for tying down the ledges so they don't blow around too much.
And if the ice or something gets out of hand, it's a fairly straight shot down the fixed line(s) to the ground.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 19, 2010 - 03:59pm PT
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Gotcha Clint. If they do stay at Molar here is some of the imagery for that from the Xrez site I noted just above. You can see that the whole region of the wall especially down and to the left somewhat from Molar, is not part of the brunt of weather from above (not going into stuff frisbee-ing of course).
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 19, 2010 - 04:08pm PT
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And here is the general area of Pitch #8. It shows plenty of opportunity:
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Nov 19, 2010 - 04:13pm PT
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I love both the symmetry and the contrasts of the 1970 ascent and this effort: this free ascent qualifies as a ‘Big Hairy Audacious Goal’ if there ever was one.
BHAG was coined by a climber turned business writer, James Collins. It is defined as… “clear and compelling, serves as unifying focal point of effort, and acts as a clear catalyst….”
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Slakkey
Big Wall climber
From Back to Big Wall Baby
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Nov 19, 2010 - 04:21pm PT
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I hear that Potter set them up with a couple. Of chutes and if things get a little sketchy they are going to base jump to the Meadow :)
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 19, 2010 - 04:29pm PT
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After going to the cookie and doing a couple of hours of burns, (the sun was even shining), again today I stop and look.
I see they are above the molar climbing with the film crew hanging along side to the left of them. Their camp is still in the same position as the last couple of days.
In other very important news I saw squirrel eating an acorn ....
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Nov 19, 2010 - 04:29pm PT
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I got stormed on one night someplace around the molar. Got up in the night and put the flies on...gramicci ones...and slept through it. Everyone got flooded out in Camp 4 that night. Of course it was just a ton of rain and it was in June or something.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 19, 2010 - 04:34pm PT
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Whereas, Roger, the prior and first ascent was known as a "Big Hairy Audacious Goat".
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Nov 19, 2010 - 04:38pm PT
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"In other very important news I saw squirrel eating an acorn ...."
Werner - was that a grey squirrel or one of those black ones?
Mr. Curious
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Gene
Social climber
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Nov 19, 2010 - 06:00pm PT
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View from Turtleback Dome, 2:43 pm local time
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Slakkey
Big Wall climber
From Back to Big Wall Baby
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Nov 19, 2010 - 06:08pm PT
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Ah no worries Gene they still more than likely VFR to be able to base jump to the Meadow :)
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Nov 19, 2010 - 11:45pm PT
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Point-n-shoot photo from the base…
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Nov 20, 2010 - 12:24am PT
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Sweet Dreams boys...
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sac
Trad climber
spuzzum
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Nov 20, 2010 - 01:18am PT
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Awesome.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Before leaving the ground, Tommy and I had redpointed pitches 1, 2, 4, 5 and 6. So basically, all the hard pitches had yet to be redpointed before going for our ground up push. This was super exciting on the go, because each successful pitch was a fresh, high-end, trad first ascent on El Cap!
How cool is that?
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
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it's so cool it's bitchin' cool
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neversummer
Mountain climber
perris, cali
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god speed and "get er done"
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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after lunch bump
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2010 - 06:33pm PT
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Mid afternoon nap bump
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Wayne Merry and I have exchanged a few catching-up notes recently. We both commented on the impossibility of getting our heads around the sort of climbing Tommy and Kevin are doing on El Cap. This was Wayne's take.
"Remember when you knew by reputation damn near everybody in the country who was able to get off the ground on a 5.9?"
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2010 - 11:00am PT
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I know. I think we they come back next season, it would be hugely recommended to just go up there too and watch them for the two weeks, you know. And with their approach to the ascent, they will be climbing the the lower pitches again too.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2011 - 05:23pm PT
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Unfortunately Kevin sprained the crap out of his ankle doing a major dyno a week or so ago on the project and now Tommy and Becca his wife and maybe also Tommy's Dad are giving a go at the whole route as we speak. Kevin is profoundly bummed as is Tommy, but the show must go on, surely.
see here: http://kjorgeson.blogspot.com/
and: http://tommyandbecca.blogspot.com/
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Oct 29, 2011 - 11:16pm PT
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Curious, if the free the formally nailing sections of this hybrid route is it then off limits to any future aiding other than clean? Seems like it would have to be to preserve the now free climb. Comments?
I always try to climb clean, but Im not going to spare the pins on a nail up just because its been free climbed. The only reason aid climbs get freed is the nailing turns seams into fingerlocks. Trying to say "ok, thats just the right amount of nailing, stop now" just wont fly.
Theres alot more 5.10 climbers than 5.14 climbers, so bigger jams suit a greater portion of the climbing public anyway.
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MTucker
Ice climber
Arizona
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Oct 30, 2011 - 12:04am PT
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I find it funny that people divorce someone then remarry another that is similar in many ways.
A friend of mine went from a skinny hippie named mike, long hair, scraggly beard that looked like Jesus to get a boyfriend that well........ looks like Jesus.
Beth v Becca = LOL
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Oct 30, 2011 - 12:06am PT
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and they will change what ever they get to what ever they had,
this is spooky, and it does happen,
you may as well screw your girlfriend's mom.
jus sayin, wtf, over?
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JOEY.F
Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
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Oct 30, 2011 - 12:38am PT
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Kevin is profoundly bummed Dang for Kevin!
Wishing the team, however it evolves, all the best!
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Oct 30, 2011 - 01:35pm PT
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big big rig.. good luck gents..
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miwuksurfer
Social climber
Mi-Wuk
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Nov 17, 2011 - 12:51pm PT
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I always try to climb clean, but Im not going to spare the pins on a nail up just because its been free climbed. The only reason aid climbs get freed is the nailing turns seams into fingerlocks. Trying to say "ok, thats just the right amount of nailing, stop now" just wont fly.
Theres alot more 5.10 climbers than 5.14 climbers, so bigger jams suit a greater portion of the climbing public anyway.
Yeah, thats why I always bring my pins with me up Sons and Serenety. I can't fit my hands in those fingerlocks anyways.
Plus there are a lot more 5.8 climbers than 5.10 climbers, so bigger jams suit a greater portion of the climbing public anyways.
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Nov 17, 2011 - 04:43pm PT
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Good question... what percentage of the climbing community must freeclimb at the grade before aid climbing it is considered off limits?
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Rattlesnake Arch
Social climber
Home is where we park it
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Nov 18, 2011 - 05:12pm PT
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Back at 13 to see how it feels. Maybe clean clothes, a fresh pair of tc pros and my wife will be the key to getting it done?
.
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Rattlesnake Arch
Social climber
Home is where we park it
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Nov 19, 2011 - 02:44pm PT
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13 is still putting up a stiff fight.
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Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
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Nov 19, 2011 - 04:37pm PT
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Whew! Those guys are pretty good. I wonder how long of a rope they are using...
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Nov 19, 2011 - 05:31pm PT
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what percentage of the climbing community must freeclimb at the grade before aid climbing it is considered off limits?
that is a good question...answer: clean aid climbing is never off limits...it's just aid.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Nov 19, 2011 - 05:43pm PT
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gonamoke,
I've been finding that all the trade routes likely to be free climbed are pretty piss easy to "nail". Placing more than 4 pins in a row on The Shield, Tribal Rite, South Seas, ZM and the Zodiac pretty much make them A2. To add back a bit of challenge I've been trying to climb those routes without using any fixed pins or heads. You can go ahead and nail anything you want but if you want a challenge, "nailing" is not way to do it.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Nov 20, 2011 - 01:49am PT
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when i said nailup, i meant nailup, not a free climb. My point is that even if somebody freed it at 5.14m, its still a nailup to me and 90% or more of the climbing population, and because it went free doesnt mean nobody can nail it anymore.
And yeah I use pins on serenity, gimmie a break. Mark thanks for your input, i cant carry your chalkbag but I know how to aid clean.
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S.Leeper
Sport climber
Pflugerville, Texas
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Nov 22, 2011 - 05:55pm PT
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Caldwell Leaves Dawn Wall, Looks to Next Year
By Dougald MacDonald
Enlarge
Tommy Caldwell battling pitch 13 on the Dawn Wall.
11/22/11 - Tommy Caldwell has abandoned this year's efforts to free-climb the Dawn Wall, the desperately hard line on the southeast face of El Capitan that he and Kevin Jorgeson have been attempting for several years. Caldwell free-climbed through the 12th pitch, including three 5.14 pitches, during a 10-day push in late October and early November. But he could not link the 13th pitch (estimated to be 5.14+) despite many days of effort. Last week, after more than two weeks on the wall, Caldwell gave up on his single-push effort, retreated to Yosemite Valley's floor for rest, then returned to the route for more attempts on pitch 13 without success.
Despite this year's disappointments, Caldwell says he's not done yet with the route. "I am still very motivated, inspired, and a bit obsessed by this project," he said in an email. "I learn new strategies and get closer each season. I don't think I will be able to let go of it yet."
Caldwell said he "lost count" of the number of tries he made on the 13th pitch. "I battled on the pitch for a week and failed to climb through the crux section." He added that this pitch has a few "really hard and low-percentage moves. I have done them all, as well as the sequences from rest position to rest position. Putting the whole thing together seems to be another matter."
The next two pitches on the route are also estimated at 5.14+, including the celebrated 15th lead, which begins with an eight-foot sideways leap that sent Jorgeson to the hospital after he smashed his ankle during his first attempt at the dyno this season. In all, the Dawn Wall project has seven 5.14 and seven 5.13 pitches out of a total of about 30 leads.
"It would have been nice to get it done this time around," Caldwell said. "I guess the saga will continue. I am too inspired by this route to let it go yet. Despite the occasional frustrations, this project continues to enrich and inspire my life In a wonderful way."
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Jan 20, 2015 - 03:53pm PT
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bump the tread. 4 years pass.
It is interesting retrospective read after the happy end
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
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Jan 20, 2015 - 04:31pm PT
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Thanks! Interesting retrospective for sure.
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