New El Cap Route - Saladita, Grade 1, 5.10c
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Messages 1 - 4 of total 4 in this topic
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 16, 2005 - 11:52am PT
Link and I finished a new El Cap route yesterday. It’s a variation to the PO Wall and we are proud to finally be a part of the El Cap first ascent club...

Well, actually, its just an 80-foot 5.10c trad climb. But its pretty fun and you can climb it in a t-shirt in December. Combine it with other base climbs like the Gollum and some of the stuff on the Footstool for a lazy winter cragging day under the coolest chunk of rock in the world.

We called it Saladita because Link and Dov just got back from surfing there in Mexico. Which is on the Pacific Ocean. And we were climbing right next to the Pacific Ocean Wall. We also just liked the sound of the word. We are not sure what Saladita means, but we think it might mean “saltine cracker.”

Here is a shot of link on it.

Here is a shot of me


The route is the obvious corner about 30 feet right of the Gollum and 30 feet left of the big bush that marks the start of the PO wall. Its 80-feet tall and has a bolt anchor that you can lower off from. For rack, bring 2 each cams from the small stuff to 1.75 inches. (I basically led the whole thin on green, yellow, red, and orange aliens).

After climbing it, I tried to lead the first pitch of the PO wall. It is rated 5.11 in my guidebook but it feels harder. I got shut down.



The day would have been perfect if we could have ended it on the Alcove Rope Swing. Ill send free beer and guidebooks to anyone that wants to re-establish that.
jiff

Mountain climber
philadelphia
Dec 16, 2005 - 12:09pm PT
Nice job! Or it could just mean "little salty" in Spanish.
thedus

climber
Mountain View, CA
Dec 16, 2005 - 05:05pm PT
Wow, I could be wrong, but I think that this is actually a FFA and I have the FA. Back in May I did my first aid lead on what I thought was P1 of the PO Wall, but those first two pictures look a heck of a lot like what I did, and the last doesn't look much like it. Here are some photos from my climb - let me know what everyone thinks.




Oh, and great job on the climb!
Bart Fay

Social climber
Redlands, CA
Dec 16, 2005 - 05:22pm PT
Yup. Saladita, of course, means little salty 'one'.

And their common brand on saltine crackers is called
Saladitas. I think there is even a bilboard for them
along the highway driving up from Zujatenajo to Las
Saladitas.

Good job guys.
Have you not heard that The Valley is all climbed out ?
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