DESERT TOWERS - the stories and images in one (big) book

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crunch

Social climber
CO
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 29, 2010 - 10:55am PT


The books have finally arrived. It's been a two-year-plus project to try to put the best of the desert tower climbing history in one book. The house is full of boxes of books...scary.

From the first ascents of Spider Rock and Totem Pole by Jerry Gallwas, Mark Powell and Don Wilson, through the adventures of Layton Kor, Eric Bjornstad and Ed Webster, to the latest wild free climbs of Rob Pizem, and Stevie Haston.



More information is here (sorry for the very rudimentary website):

http://deserttowersbook.com/

A huge, huge thank you to all who helped and contributed, a few post here from time to time, and likely a few more read here from time to time.

Crusher



goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland
Sep 29, 2010 - 11:03am PT
Looks amazing Crunch!

congratulations for pulling it together.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Sep 29, 2010 - 11:07am PT
Gonna have to try that sometime.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Sep 29, 2010 - 11:23am PT
I want!
Gagner

climber
Boulder
Sep 29, 2010 - 11:28am PT
Crusher - Congratulations, I'm glad you finally got it done. How soon until volume two is ready - ha,ha?

To all - Crusher showed me the manuscript last year and what is very cool about this book is that many of the photos are previously unpublished and have not been seen before - along with many of the stories. It really is a super cool book for anyone who is a desert climber, aspires to desert climbing, or is just plain into adventure.

Paul
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Sep 29, 2010 - 11:36am PT
Not the thing for an urban sophisticate like yourself, Ron.....

haha
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Sep 29, 2010 - 11:47am PT
Couldn't you have picked something a little more photogenic?
Dick Danger

Trad climber
Lakewood, Colorado
Sep 29, 2010 - 01:52pm PT
crunch

Social climber
CO
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2010 - 06:00pm PT
Thanks for the kind comments.

I'm doing a slideshow/book signing at Boulder's own Neptunes tomorrow night, Thursday 30th (books arrived in the nick of time!)

I'm working on a few more shows--Salt Lake City, Grand Junction, Colorado Springs, so far.

Would there be any interest in a show in early-mid-December in the Bay Area? Who would I talk to?

Gagner, I'll come by the AAC tomorrow morning, and drop off a book with the AAC library--the library folks have been very patient with me loitering for days around the stacks.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 29, 2010 - 06:02pm PT
Crusher, can I get an autographed copy? How's Fran?
crunch

Social climber
CO
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2010 - 06:05pm PT
Doninisaurus!

I heard you were going to do a crack-climbing clinic at the Green River Towers next month--is that true?



donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 29, 2010 - 06:09pm PT
Not true, but I'll be in the desert a lot after I get back from Yosemite on 10/11- let's do a tower! I'll call you.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Sep 29, 2010 - 06:30pm PT

WOW!!!!

I want one too!!!!!
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Sep 29, 2010 - 06:35pm PT
Sheesh.

It is the Bowknot Group!

Stop repeating a Bjornstad error.


There are towers for over a hundred miles along the Green River.


(and it'd be a cool place for a clinic if you had the boatage, a nightmare if you didn't.)
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Sep 29, 2010 - 07:29pm PT
oh man, me too!
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Sep 29, 2010 - 07:36pm PT
true beauty.
Fantastic work.
ARoberts

Trad climber
boulder, colorado
Sep 30, 2010 - 12:03am PT
Dam, now I have to come up with 50 bucks! Looks cool!
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland
Sep 30, 2010 - 12:14am PT
I'll buy the first round after tomorrows show, this kind of opening needs a good afterparty.
crunch

Social climber
CO
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 30, 2010 - 09:40am PT
"It is the Bowknot Group!

Sorry Ron....I'll remember that name in future.



Bldrjac

Ice climber
Boulder
Sep 30, 2010 - 10:30am PT
GOOD JOB CRUSHER!! Putting a book of that size and quality together takes tons of stamina and vision. I'm looking forward to paging through my copy this winter............hat's off to ya.
Karla

climber
Colorado
Sep 30, 2010 - 12:02pm PT
Congrats Crusher! We'll see you tonight!
John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
Sep 30, 2010 - 03:41pm PT
Looks like a beautiful book. Congrats on getting it published.

Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Sep 30, 2010 - 07:31pm PT
show bump
go-B

climber
Matthew 25:40
Sep 30, 2010 - 08:42pm PT
Sweet!

Cheers, Bro!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Oct 1, 2010 - 03:18am PT
Crusher,

> Would there be any interest in a show in early-mid-December in the Bay Area? Who would I talk to?

Sure, we are psyched to see a good slideshow. If you want to give one at Stanford, we have (free) auditoriums that can hold lots of people. Although sometimes they are not filled - some people might not know what desert towers are here, and early December is close to exams time. Other options would be Berkeley (maybe try asking Kerwin (klk)), Marin (Jerry Dodrill).

P.S. Your description of free climbing Standing Rock got me psyched to climb it a few years back with my friends Jared and Mike. What a great climb! Prior to that I had the Ken Trout topo and I was scared away by the "kitty litter quality" he noted!

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/utah/moab_area/island_in_the_sky/105717778
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Oct 1, 2010 - 04:45am PT
Steve;.......come to joshua Tree and do one at my house;.....we can fill the place......(just another reason to have a party....)......congrats on finishing a project.....looks like an awesome book.....
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Oct 1, 2010 - 12:11pm PT
Who was there/


Show report.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Green Cove slabbage BITD!
Oct 1, 2010 - 02:45pm PT
Lovely book crusher.

AO sent me a review copy...it'll be awhile before that ends up in print. It's been great for a few days' worth of perusal- best not taken all at once, that's for sure.

A question: Tooth Rock is on the map, but nowhere in the text- does it fail the beer-bottle test?

Rob Dillon
El Portal CA

schwortz

Social climber
"close to everything = not at anything", ca
Oct 1, 2010 - 04:40pm PT
awesome...if i had any money i'd buy a copy right now...

have to put it on the wish list for a time of greater liquidity
crunch

Social climber
CO
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2010 - 06:21pm PT
"A question: Tooth Rock is on the map, but nowhere in the text- does it fail the beer-bottle test?"

I would have loved to have included some of the stories and images from Toothrock. The formation is HUGE.

But at some point the book would have failed the beer-bottle test. And I'd have disappeared into the bottom of a beer bottle, never to be seen again.

The recent free climb of Toothrock is, at least, documented in several places online, like here:

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP19/newswire-tooth-rock-newman-cahall-martin

The first ascent of Toothrock in 1977, over several days, pre-cams, must have been an epic adventure.

I also would have loved to have included history of the Grand Canyon summits, some of those have some cool stories, and were done long, long ago. Oh, and of course Earth Angel.

Dave Ganci wrote an article about the first ascent of Zoroaster Temple with Rick Tidrick, in Summit, in 1959. Great story. It had been tried by at least five different parties already, and was a classic desert last-great-problem at the time, with formidable logistics.

To do justice to the Sedona/Northern Arizona/Grand Canyon histories--Scott Baxter, Glenn Rink, Stan Mish, etc, there's enough material for a separate volume.
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Oct 2, 2010 - 03:08pm PT
Must have.



crunch

Social climber
CO
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2010 - 01:00am PT
Thanks for the nice comments, and great photos.

Here's a couple more:


That funny little ET-style head /summit has some excellent face climbing, far in the sky:


Here's an update on a few slide shows, including Salt Lake City next Tuesday:

October 19, 2010, 7 pm, at the Black Diamond retail store in Salt Lake City, Utah 84124 (address: 2092 East 3900 South; phone: 801-278-0233).

Provo, Utah: October 21, Centre Stage, 7pm, Utah Valley University (UVU). Admission $5, tickets available in advance from Mountainworks, 2494 North University Parkway Provo, Utah. 1-801-371-0223. (proceeds to go to replacement of old anchors in the Fisher Towers)

Grand Junction, CO: 7:30 pm, October 27, 2010    Maverick Center Auditorium, Room 155, Mesa State, Grand Junction, CO.

Moab, UT: 7:00 pm, October 29, 2010    Back of Beyond Books, 83 North Main, Moab, UT.

Colorado Springs, CO: November 3,   Mountain Chalet, 226 N Tejon St., Colorado Springs, CO 80903 (719) 633-0732
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 14, 2010 - 01:31am PT
Great work Steve!

I talked with Mark Powell this afternoon and he is very impressed with this book! He and Jerry Gallwas worked diligently to make sure that their accounts were accurate. You could hear the pride in his voice...very cool!
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Oct 14, 2010 - 01:48am PT
Steve;...got my copy;...it's awesome......thanks, Steve....fantastic job.......much appreciate all the work and research put into this book.....it is now THE book on the desert SW......congrats, and thanks again. BRAVO!
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Oct 14, 2010 - 02:18am PT
Awesome book Crusher. I'm saving my bottle deposit money for that one.
CLASSIC!!!111
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Oct 19, 2010 - 07:19pm PT
This is a fabulous book, money well spent. Thanks Crusher.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Oct 19, 2010 - 07:34pm PT
Got my copy- stunning book! Great photos, many of them historical and wonderful writing.
Great job Crusher!!!
AlexReinhard

climber
Oct 19, 2010 - 08:34pm PT
Wow the design of the book itself looks brilliant, not to mention the pictures themselves.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 26, 2010 - 01:36pm PT
Just in time for Black Friday...get 'em while they are still standing,,on Neptune's bookshelf!
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Nov 26, 2010 - 02:00pm PT

R U in Bowlder, Mr. Historian Grossman???????

go-B

climber
Matthew 25:40
Nov 26, 2010 - 02:06pm PT
Desert Towers: Fat Cat Summits and Kitty Litter Rock [Hardcover]
Steve "Crusher" Bartlett (Author)

http://www.amazon.com/Desert-Towers-Summits-Kitty-Litter/dp/1892540703/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1290797293&sr=8-1

Cheers!
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Nov 26, 2010 - 05:14pm PT
gaflucci bump.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 27, 2010 - 03:50pm PT
Not presently but, I'd be bolder if I wore a bowler in Boulder.
LuckyPink

climber
the last bivy
Nov 27, 2010 - 05:16pm PT
wow.. on the gift list .. btw keep us posted on slide show events!
FeelioBabar

Trad climber
One drink ahead of my past.
Nov 27, 2010 - 07:28pm PT
Brilliant book Crusher! A+ in all regards.....save one...

underwhelming cover shot, considering the subject matter.

Of course that's just one person's opinion....Cheers to a job well done!


groundup

Trad climber
Nov 27, 2010 - 09:00pm PT
Nice book Crusher. Well researched and the pictures are amazing. I'll buy one for Harvey T
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Nov 27, 2010 - 09:20pm PT
Looks brilliant Crusher! I'll go to the website and order one for me, now, and I'll think about one or two more as X-mas giftts. Thanks for a wonderful contribution to our eccentric pastime.

-Jello
duncan

climber
London, UK
Nov 28, 2010 - 06:59pm PT
Just unwrapped my copy. It looks wonderful. If you're even slightly interested in desert climbing this is an essential buy; if you are not interested then buy it and you will be!

Mimi

climber
Nov 28, 2010 - 07:17pm PT
What a fine effort, Steve. It was a pleasure watching a part of it unfold. A must for every climber's library whether you've been up a desert tower yet or knot. Yeah, Monster Tower!
crunch

Social climber
CO
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2010 - 01:02am PT
Thanks for all the kind comments.

Hmmmm, Monster Tower

Captain...or Skully

Big Wall climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
Nov 29, 2010 - 08:21am PT
Excellent book, there, Steve. Big props.
Love those Towers!
MisterE

Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
Nov 29, 2010 - 12:00pm PT
bump for a great looking book!
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Nov 29, 2010 - 12:57pm PT
Can you see Russia from there?
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Dec 1, 2010 - 06:36pm PT
Bumping this sonabitch. Amazing Amazing Volume. A must-buy and one of the very best climbing books in english. Really well-done, incredible image collection, wonderful text, no histrionics, solid as hell and friendly. Phenomenal, professional effort and interpretation by Crusher! Highest marks here, Pilgrims. Modern, many-textured, intelligent giant! And you can see Russia from there too, PR.
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Dec 1, 2010 - 07:14pm PT
book looks great Crusher!
I will have to pick one up..
kristin ogden

Boulder climber
Durango
Dec 2, 2010 - 01:35pm PT
Crunch, You've just solved many of my holiday shopping issues! This looks awesome!
zarmot

Trad climber
Nelson, BC
Dec 2, 2010 - 10:13pm PT
Crusher -- do you have details on where & when the Salt Lake show will be? I flipped through a copy of the book last week... Nice job!
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Dec 18, 2010 - 01:00pm PT
Crusher and his fabulous partner Fran the geophysicist were visiting San Francisco this week for a conference, Pilgrims and had some time to meet up with Doug Robinson and I at Planet Granite SF, down on Crissy Field and on the Bay by the Golden Gate Bridge--- my gym. There was a couple of hours of climbing and then we had lunch in the Marina at a nice Japanese place on Chestnut (Asa Sushi). Doug drove from Kirkwood after an instructors' event there; the first 20 miles were with chains at 10 degrees. Needless to say he joined us in good form having had his weekly dose of mileage he has to always have. DR bought Crusher's book too and was really impressed with it as well. We had great weather too---snuck in between the bouts of rain that continue for another 10 days maybe.

Keep in mind buying this book; it is really modern, well-done and extensive!







Doug Robinson

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Dec 18, 2010 - 01:45pm PT
I've been reading the book ever since I touched down at home. I am SO impressed!

Being a Brit gave Bartlett advantageous perspective on this subject. With the whole California-Colorado rivalry for FAs in the desert in between us, it's nice to have an outsider point of view. Well, maybe only truly an outsider until red sand started appearing under Crusher's fingernails, which was decades ago.

Best perspective yet on the early history. How people Like Mark Powell and Jerry Gallwas, who were leader in Yosemite in the 1950s, were just as obsessed with the skinniest towers in the desert, and at least as proud of their climbs out there.

Best rendition yet of the FA of Shiprock, and how crucial the dynamic belay techniques developed by in the 1930s by a few Sierra Club climbers turned out to be. Steve dug deep into the archives for unpublished photos, and more of a sense of what the activists were feeling. Fascinating that the first use of bolts there turned controversial right away. Some things never change...

Of course the photos are immediately striking. And so many of them new and unexpected, showing better than ever before the personalities of each generation.

Steve, I like some of your turns of phrase that make the whole thing vivid.
A harmonic imbalance of stone and space
Others, like David Roberts, have been tracking the faint trail of the Anasazi, but somehow your descriptions of 5.7 solo moves way off the deck leading to old cliff dwellings really brought it home.

I had started up a slabby approach... Not far up the slab was a shiny new bolt. Ropeless and in my tennis shoes, I felt embarrassed to be a modern rock climber. Passing a second bolt, I became more concerned -- was it my own judgment I should question? Concern turned to fear when an eagle flew overhead and dropped a rabbit right at my feet. I turned around. Sometimes it's just the wrong day to visit someone's home.

Fine Job, Crusher! And I really enjoyed meeting Fran.

Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Dec 18, 2010 - 09:25pm PT
Bumping a great effort and book!
Crag Q

Trad climber
Louisville, Colorado
Dec 18, 2010 - 10:48pm PT
I just purchased one for my best climbing buddy of all time.
crunch

Social climber
CO
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2010 - 03:14pm PT
Thanks Peter and Doug. It was great meeting you again, and visiting the Bay Area is alway a blast.

andy@climbingmoab

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Jan 20, 2011 - 04:19pm PT
Any more slideshows planned? I was out of town during the other front range shows, but i'd absolutely love to see one.
crunch

Social climber
CO
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2011 - 02:09pm PT

Hey gang, I've scheduled a couple more desert tower slideshows.

My own organizational ability is about zero, so a huge thanks to all the help from the AAC folks and the Santa Rosa RIM folks with setting these up.

Saturday, February 26, at Feathered Friends, Seattle. This is in conjunction with the AAC, as part of their annual dinner:

http://www.americanalpineclub.org/pt/2011annualbenefitweekendschedule

Here's the website for the location:

http://www.featheredfriendsretail.com/info.html

Tuesday, March 1, Santa Rosa, in conjunction with the Rock Ice & Mountain folks of Santa Rosa:

http://www.rockicemountain.org/


As I said, my organizational ability is terrible, but I enjoy doing the slideshows and the ones I've done so far have been a lot of fun, so if anyone has suggestions for other potential slideshow locations around California, early March, I'd be up for ideas.

Cheers,
Crusher (the old, crusty, balding one....)
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Feb 17, 2011 - 02:57pm PT
Bump for desert rock.

I just purchased a first edition of of Dellenbaugh's " A Canyon Voyage" yesterday, it has a picture in it from 1871 of Bowknot Bend, buttress after buttress of beautiful rock in that photograph. Here are a few shots from my trip a few years ago.
crunch

Social climber
CO
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2011 - 06:14pm PT
Hey Jeremy, just send me a personal email (I think you have my email, or else send a message right here through supertopo) with your mailing address; I will send you a signed one. Must come visit Albuquerque some time too.....I heard you have some prime chossy epic potential in the Sandias.

Cheers,
the crunchy crusher
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 15, 2011 - 12:44pm PT
Timely bump for Steve's excellent effort.

Email him (crunch) to get your very own copy before he retires to Tahiti and you're out of luck!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 12, 2011 - 11:51am PT
Regularly scheduled Bump...
crunch

Social climber
CO
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2011 - 12:55pm PT
Thanks Steve!

Hope you and Mimi are well.

A heads up for a desert tower slideshow June 27, in Norman, Oklahoma:

http://www.backwoods.com/stores-and-events.html

http://www.facebook.com/backwoodsnorman?sk=events

Layton and his son Arlan were just here in Boulder; Arlan promises to be climber like his dad: maybe not too attentive to his footwork (not yet anyway, but he's young and this will probably change!), but fast, strong, fluid, enthusiastic, super positive.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Jun 12, 2011 - 10:04pm PT

Crusher--did you ever give that show at Wilderness Exchange Unlimited?

Fluoride

Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
Jun 13, 2011 - 06:45pm PT
I read about this on Steve's i-phone driving back from JT (home) last night.

Just wanted to say this looks incredible and for a SE Utah desert rat like me is going to be on my bookshelf. When I get one. Kudos, this book looks like it has a lot of heart and hard work at the same time.

On an off note: One of these damn days Jeremy....we'll tackle the mud.
Fluoride

Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
Jun 13, 2011 - 07:21pm PT
I don't know what you mean Jerm! Tell me more.

Things are weird out here this season. Too much snowfall is making the Tioga Pass open late and when it does, a lot of the routes will still have a lot of snowcover just to reach the base.

Steve and I have permits for Whitney and Russell in August and even then I'm worried about some late season snowpack.

Who knew I'd long for the days when I just wanted to climb a giant pile of mud. With questionable circumstances.

The good times:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=116883&msg=117217#msg117217
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 8, 2011 - 11:42am PT
Independence Bump!
crunch

Social climber
CO
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2011 - 02:11pm PT
Nice thread about Rocky Top; never saw that before. Another desert classic; beats me why Layton and Huntley never polished that one off thirty years ago.

Yeah, I'm pining for more desert summits, soon as the weather cools down.

Fun times on the Mudstrosity FA:



duncan

climber
London, UK
Sep 13, 2011 - 03:18pm PT
Now short-listed for the 2011 Boardman-Tasker prize.

Nice one Crusher!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 13, 2011 - 03:19pm PT
It has my vote.
crunch

Social climber
CO
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 13, 2011 - 06:02pm PT
Yikes!

Some great writers and book in the shortlist for the Boardman-Tasker this year. Award ceremony is in Kendal, in the UK Lake District. Humbling. I owe a huge debt to all the many folks who helped and contributed, with words and photos.

It'll be funny to be back there, one of my old haunts from when I started climbing. Here's a faded photo of me, about 150 years ago, in EBs, goofy helmet, Whillans Harness, waist belay, rack of Moac and Clog nuts on two-foot long slings, climbing not far from Kendal. A rare non-rain days!


More recent pic, slightly better color:

Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Sep 13, 2011 - 08:10pm PT
Huge Congratulations!! Our very own Crusher is short-roped as he says so himself:


or link: http://www.boardmantasker.com/site/shortlist2011.htm
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Sep 14, 2011 - 12:08am PT
Hi Crusher. I was in your shoes about 20 years ago. Went over to England for the B-T and wound up with second prize. Which was okay, cuz I spent a week hanging out and climbing with Ken Wilson and Doug Scott.

But I have a feeling you'll do better in the prize category. Your book is one of those rare works that combines the best of everything -- writing, history, photography -- and if it doesn't take the 2011 prize there is something seriously askew in the fabric of the universe. Now whether you'll have as much fun on your visit as I did is another matter, but you should definitely come home with a blue ribbon. Or whatever they give the winner.

D
crunch

Social climber
CO
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2011 - 12:38am PT
I think the winner gets one of these:

SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Sep 14, 2011 - 01:58am PT

Crusher, I've been wondering if you're ignoring the front range here--
I bet you'd get a sell out at Neptune's, Bent Gate or some other venue
here--PLEASE give us a show!!!!!
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Sep 14, 2011 - 11:26am PT
What a remarkably well done book Crusher. Not just a book but a compendium of historical, anecdotal and invaluable information. This is a Tome of major significance in the climbing world.
crunch

Social climber
CO
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 15, 2011 - 05:17pm PT
Hey SteveW, I’m going to put together a few slideshows for the fall, around the Front Range. I’ve been taking a break since last winter. Thanks for the interest and the reminder! The shows are a lot of fun.
dirt claud

Social climber
san diego,ca
Sep 15, 2011 - 05:22pm PT
Hope you make it out to So Cal too. Would love to catch one of those slide shows.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Sep 15, 2011 - 06:12pm PT

Crusher--whoo hoo!!!!! I'll be there, and want one of your books!!!!
crunch

Social climber
CO
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 16, 2011 - 03:18pm PT
if it doesn't take the 2011 prize there is something seriously askew in the fabric of the universe.

Thanks for all the kind comments, Philo, Ghost, Peter Haan, all.

As for which book deserves the Boardman-Tasker Award? It really depends on what the judges are looking for. They are looking for mountain-oriented literature. The Matterhorn book sounds really cool, as does Tim Hannigan’s effort. And Joe Simpson has a novel? His writing is utterly un-put-downable, and delves deep. Daunting, being on such a shortlist. I'd like to find time to read them all.

Humbling to have my book regarded as being in the same class. It became a several-year project that drove me halfway insane. I owe a huge debt to the patient interviewees and to those whose slide collections I spent hours rummaging around in. So many people, people who had never met me before, had no idea who I was, put a lot of trust in me.

I felt obliged to make the end product worthy of the all the help and generous contributions. And to make the end-product worthy of the sheer alien beauty and wildness of the vast desert itself.

Anyone here on Supertopo wants a copy, send an email to my crunch handle. It's also, conveniently, on Amazon, but I'll sign copies for supertopians.

Crusher
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Oct 18, 2011 - 04:04pm PT

I went into Pagan Mountaineering to buy a coffee maker and walked out with fifty dollar book. Do not look through this book unless you are prepared to buy it. I hope to run into you sometime Crusher so you can sign it for me.
Cheers!
PaulC

Social climber
Traffic Jam Ledge
Dec 12, 2011 - 11:55am PT
An amazing book.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Dec 12, 2011 - 12:00pm PT
It really is a beautiful book with lots of great information. I still can't believe it's as inexpensive as it is. Great holiday gift.
crunch

Social climber
CO
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2011 - 01:55pm PT
if it doesn't take the 2011 prize there is something seriously askew in the fabric of the universe

Well ghost, the sky is officially falling!

When push came to shove, the Boardman-Tasker judges decided that Bernadette's McDonald's Freedom Climbers was the most important book in years. Tells the story of the rise of the Polish mountaineers, out of the grinding poverty and hardship of post WWII communist Poland. Compared to what they had at home, ascending Himalayan giants in winter was comfortable. It was also a way for them to escape, to find the freedom they were denied at home. I had no idea about this, but it's, apparently, a great story, told really well.

Had a great trip to Kendal. The people at the event (except those pesky judges....just kidding...) were very positive, supportive, really loved my book. A fun time.

Desert Towers did win in Canada, at the Banff Mountain Festival, where it won the Best Mountaineering History Award for 2011:

http://www.banffcentre.ca/mountainfestival/competitions/book/2011/#panel-6

Polyphony is now my favorite word.

Maybe out of the prize money I'll buy a digital projector, stop lugging my old slides and my Kodak Ektographic dinosaur around, do some racy slide shows in the late winter/early spring.

Or, maybe I'l fill up the truck with gas and head to the desert....
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Dec 12, 2011 - 02:59pm PT
Maybe out of the prize money I'll buy a digital projector,

Prize money? The B-T people are now offering money? Sh#t, They didn't do that BITD. All I got for coming second was a couple of handshakes and my picture taken with Vic Saunders. Maybe I'll have to write another climbing book. Or was it the Banff people who showered you with loot?

I haven't read Bernadette's book, so maybe it is possible that it is more deserving than yours. But I'd be surprised. As I said in my review in the AAJ I thought Desert Towers was one of those rare books that combines the best of everything. Excellent writing, valuable history, great photography...

Cheers

D
PaulC

Social climber
Traffic Jam Ledge
Dec 12, 2011 - 04:34pm PT
Did anyone pick up on the significant marking on the cam on page 209? Minor detail but way cool...
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Dec 12, 2011 - 06:23pm PT
Before you head back to the desert, Crusher, give us a show
in Denver/Boulder!!!!!

(luv the book)!!!!!

And huge congrats on the award--well deserved!!!!
crunch

Social climber
CO
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2011 - 11:23pm PT
Ghost,

The B-T award comes with a burly check for 3,000 UK pounds. The Grand Prize at Banff is $2,000. The History Award at Banff (that Desert Towers won) is $750.

And PaulC--good eye!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 6, 2012 - 08:51pm PT
Beauteous Book Bump!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 25, 2012 - 01:15pm PT
Tandem rappel bump...
crunch

Social climber
CO
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2012 - 05:37pm PT
Hey Lolli,

Crusher here, sorry to see the sad face :-(

It is REALLY expensive to ship across the Atlantic. Almost as much as the book costs. Definitely a big, very sad face :-(

In UK, Cordee distribute copies with free shipping:

http://www.cordee.co.uk/CND031.php

I don't know what they would charge to ship outside of UK.

Where are you located?
The international shipping is stupidly expensive. I'd like to help out, so if you would really like a copy but the shipping cost is a deal-breaker, send me an email here, and we can probably work something out.

The US Post Office's flat rate shipping via International Priority Mail means it costs the same to ship two copies, so if you know anyone else who would want a copy, that really changes the equation.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 4, 2012 - 02:48pm PT
Fat Cat Summits Bump...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 6, 2013 - 07:56pm PT
Bump for the Berkeley show on Monday.

Come and buy a copy and support Crusher's historical work.

Delightful book!
PaulC

Social climber
Traffic Jam Ledge
Dec 9, 2013 - 09:15pm PT
Awesome book. Skip shopping for junk. Buy this classic for a friend or yourself.
crunch

Social climber
CO
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 9, 2013 - 10:10pm PT
Hey, thanks PaulC,


Hey Lolli, did you ever get a copy?
Reeotch

climber
4 Corners Area
Dec 9, 2013 - 10:24pm PT
Asked for one for Xmas.

Can't wait . . .
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 15, 2013 - 04:36pm PT
The gift that keeps on giving for that perfect someone!
thebravecowboy

Social climber
Colorado Plateau
Dec 15, 2013 - 04:42pm PT
choss boss bump
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Dec 15, 2013 - 05:18pm PT
TBC, do you have a copy? It's awesome. I've still not read all the stories.


I'm going friggin stir crazy. Gonna rangle some cold choss tomorrow.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 17, 2014 - 02:46pm PT
Bump for a muddy red smile at the end of the day!
LilaBiene

Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
May 17, 2014 - 03:58pm PT
This should be here, too. ")


Edit: will fix. Stuck in parking lot @ Gunks...
crunch

Social climber
CO
Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2014 - 08:47am PT
Nice photo, Lilabiene. She's growing up fast!

From yesterday morning, in the desert:

crunch

Social climber
CO
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 28, 2014 - 02:53pm PT
It's Desert Season!

And, since my birthday is coming up in a couple weeks, I'm getting psyched to sell some books, put some gas in the tank of my truck and go climb some towers.

So, any copies of Desert Towers I sell between now and then, through Supertopo, I'll sell for 40 bucks, 20 percent off regular retail. We can take credit cards, checks.

Send me an email, stephenbartlett (at) yahoodotcom or phone an order: three-oh-three, four four three, zero nine five five

http://deserttowersbook.com/
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Sep 28, 2014 - 08:23pm PT
Did you get my message at your taco mail?
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Sep 30, 2014 - 05:46am PT
Occupy the taco with climbing related content style bump!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 21, 2015 - 12:24pm PT
Bump for the desert in Spring...
PaulC

Social climber
Traffic Jam Ledge
Mar 22, 2015 - 10:41am PT
A great book to revisit while healing up from total hip replacement surgery. I will be ordering another for a friend.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Apr 13, 2015 - 09:31am PT
Cool choss bump!
thebravecowboy

climber
the Midcontinent Rift
Apr 13, 2015 - 10:45am PT
A belated response to our beloved and absent THE Larry: yes! It is probably the most beat-up book that I own. Highly recommended!
Trashman

Trad climber
SLC
Apr 13, 2015 - 11:49am PT
crunch, is last arrow spire near Pritchett and hunter canyons? Amazing spire out that way that see every time we do a trail race out that way, but never been able to find any info on it.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Apr 13, 2015 - 12:49pm PT
That's the one. I first saw it when runing out there and sent Crusher a photo. He directed me to desert rock III ( I think)
Trashman

Trad climber
SLC
Apr 13, 2015 - 01:25pm PT
Thanks for the tip, Jaybro. Love running out there, almost as fun as climbing.
thebravecowboy

climber
the Midcontinent Rift
Apr 13, 2015 - 04:48pm PT
Bill Mc Kirgan

Trad climber
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Apr 13, 2015 - 07:12pm PT
tBc,

He prolly wanted to share the photos he took from his perspective. A kind gesture is my first guess.

--Bill


edit for context:

tBc's photo caption from previous page:
Happy Turk. A Hispanic fellow stopped his truck and took some photos while I stood there alone. He left an email on my windshield, but I never contacted him.
Did he think I was gonna/did die?

^^^ Based on this I thought you observed someone taking pictures of you while you were up there, and then they left a note with their email address on your windshield.

Sorry, I'm confused, but in any case, the picture of your shadow from the Happy Turk looks cool.

Thought you might reply to that email address and get the other person's angle. Peace.
thebravecowboy

climber
the Midcontinent Rift
Apr 13, 2015 - 07:46pm PT
Oh yeah dude, I asked him to leave his email.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 21, 2016 - 10:16am PT
Flagstaff climbers can come to a free presentation about desert climbing by Crusher on Friday at the Main Street Boulders gym in Flagstaff at 7pm. Come by and have a beer gratis and get a copy of this exquisite book signed by the author.

More on this show is available at the end of the Templed Horizon thread here.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2714343/THE-TEMPLED-HORIZON-GRAND-CANYON-CLIMBING-March-5-6-2016

This is the start of a big weekend of climbing presentations and a chance to come and meet an amazing lineup of stalwarts and pioneers that have spent their time and energy climbing in the desert so don't miss any of it!

The good folks at Flagstaff Climbing are hosting another party on Saturday night at their other location from 6-9 pm. A $5 donation to NACHA and we will fill your cup with beer or wine while we all relax, socialize and nibble on some snacks.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 19, 2017 - 01:00pm PT
Bump for an entertaining and informative book.
thebravecowboy

climber
The Good Places
Feb 19, 2017 - 01:03pm PT
the historical bent of the DT book alone is worth the loot
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 18, 2018 - 11:37am PT
Tis' the season! Bump for the perfect holiday gift of grit, guts, gristle and grandeur.
crunch

Social climber
CO
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 19, 2018 - 10:42am PT
Kind words from so many. Year by year, putting together a book like this becomes more and more an impossibility. Too many desert pioneers who were so helpful and generous are gone in just the last eight years: Layton Kor, Harvey Carter, Bill Forrest, Fred Beckey, Eric Bjornstad, just recently Huntley Ingalls and Chip Chace.

On the positive side, there's a whole new generation of hardcore desert climbers who continue the tradition of high adventure and low bolt counts. Kids today are stronger and fitter than ever. Onward!


http://stores.sharpendbooks.com/desert-towers-call-to-ship-internationally/
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