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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 9, 2010 - 12:01pm PT
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I've seen several posts here and elsewhere regarding use of a machine for 'getting schooled' in climbing OW cracks. I have a superb place for one in my shop building here on the ranch, a 16' sidewall and 24' high point in the building center.
Anybody have any plans, sketches, working drawings, and suggestions?
I think that this would be more interesting than the usual "gym climbing" for an old, out of shape geezer climber.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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perfect! I'd say go with a Zander plan and an extended Gary. For best results sprinkle liberally with shaping ideas from scuffy's redwood terror.
Gary's adjustable crack, replete with geezers
Great for parties;
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Zanderland, with Allen Steck for scale, ss simulator optional,
The Scuffinator with Em of Wyde for scale there is a third 4x8 panel that you can't see in the photo and a recent 3' cap, as well
Alexey, at cruxy transition
Mighty Melissa, just slightly higher in rounded flare section
Legend has it that only one man under age50, has ever onsighted this edifice. That legend's name is
Shaggy
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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My own contribution; the ow roof. Like a jungle gym with an off fist crack on one or both sides. I hook the rungs with inversion cuffs.
Three sections of this (2 shown) lead to a slackline and then a sort of systems, roof rig to round things out
Also, since yer in Douglas, run up to razor city and have my bro, Chasbro, belay you on the Deto simulator @ the Camel County Rec. center.
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Dude, don't even listen to Jaybro. In fact, the only good cracks are perfect hands.
You are about to go down a dark road, my friend. You will start hanging out on widefetish.com and drooling over Shanti pictures.
And you will suffer greatly from climbing upside down. Blood pools in the head and increases risk of stroke. Just look at Walling. There must be some explanation of why the dude is so different.
edit: You are right about one thing. OW certainly does attract the old geezers. My advice is to do 500 situps a night. Head over to widefetish.com and introduce yourself if you insist on going down this road. Woe is you. Nice folks, though.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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He's right, Just follow the steps, and this,
Could be,
You,
!YMMV!
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pc
climber
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Exactly. And people have been known to shat themselves in those things. Be sure to keep some Depends handy.
Cheers,
pc
edit. Jaybro is clearly delusional. You'll only ever find scruffy, stinky, old geezers climbing that stuff. ;)
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Who needs a machine? The Gristle is just down the road a piece.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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You lucky Josh-heads! I think the only gristle in Dougwy has bones and tubes in it. Though can get it served still throbbing.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oh yeah, cost... Remember, this isan investment.
Then check prices for wood (the more warped the better, seriously) @ home despot, or in your case prolly ace affiliate.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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make sure your health insurance covers the damage costs too
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Especially mental health costs!
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Good timing on your post brokedown. I'm building a wall in my yard soon that NEEDS an offwidth size crack so I can train for Excalibur;) I'd love to see Zanders set up firsthand. Is he a local bay area guy?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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You will start hanging out on widefetish.com and drooling over Shanti pictures. And is there something wrong with the latter?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Zander is in Bezerkly.
Gary is in Sunol,
And scuffy is in Metro Santa Cruz.
Gary has been having sessions on Wednesday nights.
Karo, check your email
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2010 - 04:10pm PT
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Maybe I should simply cop a temporary insanity plea? Gotta' fugure out how big to build the damned thing. I was thinking of an adjustable torture machine.
Stinky old geezers? Welcome home. I BE an OLD GEEZER!
Jaybro-
There is a Home Despot in Casper.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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So day dreaming about it...if I had the space, time, dough, and know how I'd want these things:
-2 sections: one roof, one vertical/overhanging after the roof
-adjustable for width, angle, lean and flair
-deep enough to get inverted up to the waist
...basically have a roof with a lip pivot...
a quick, mediocre vision (read: death trap) via google sketch up
Still working the logistics in the brain, probably prove a challenge to build sturdily and still be able to adjust it all...
ideas?
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scuffy b
climber
Eastern Salinia
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Brokedown,
Zander's, Gary's and mine are all adjustable.
How big? As big as you can, that is to say, FULL HEIGHT.
Go for at least 2 ft in depth if you can. Things get pretty strange
(really specialized) when they're wide and shallow. Esoteric, not basic.
Threaded rod (Allthread) is used for adjustment.
The stiffer the structural menbers, the fewer rods necessary, meaning
easier adjustment.
I've never heard anyone complain about adjusting being too hard, though.
When you need to make a change, you'll do it.
One consideration is whether to go for a straight-in crack or offset.
One possibility is to make it straight in with modular additions for
offset.
Having some face on the outside of the crack is desired.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Ah, the friendly ghost. I forgot, I was thinking Gillette or Cheyenne, for closest despot.
What Scuff sez, depth is key!
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Jaybro, what is the name of the horror movie you just posted? And who is owner of the hands?
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2010 - 05:45pm PT
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Makes me happy that I'm off of Coumadin now!!!
Do you guys keep transfusion supplies on-hand at these "evening get-togethers?"
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Yeah, blood thinners and Throbbing Gristle would be bad. That Josh rock is pretty sharp. You ought to go over to widefetish and watch the videos of everyone on it.
It would be a new one for me to hear about a climber bleeding to death from gobies, though.
I think that off-width and speed climbing need to be married somehow.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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"transfusion supplies" = beer.
Tom Kingsbury's structure could double as a children's play apparatus.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2010 - 06:26pm PT
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Well, I figure that those of us who no longer have "svelte" physiques can stuff our fat a$$e$ into OW cracks. I HAVE watched several of Ed's filmed clips on Vimeo: Bongs Away-Center, Chingando, etc. as linked from Widefetish.com.
I've always regarded myself as a face climber, but that takes more finger strength than I have now.
This could be my "Winter Project!"
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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It would be a new one for me to hear about a climber bleeding to death from gobies, though.
True but I bet Shanti (above rookii) has come closest; she bleeds freely, and has the least mass, this side of Lydija P, anyway....
"death by exsanguination" - cool route name
Edit, that weld-it knows where to search, and quickly, whomever he, or she, may be....
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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I look at all of those photos over at widefetish.com and it looks like training to escape from prison.
When they put in this huge open area for the gorillas at the zoo around here, they hired a couple of climbers to try to escape. They bouldered right out at mid-5.12. They didn't change anything and the gorillas haven't figured it out.
If they only had small enough fingers to type in widefetish.com they would be free. Maybe I will take a laptop over there and show them climbing videos from youtube through the glass.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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How do you know they aren't already on Widefetish?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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BASE104 is probably fitting them with squirrel suits, and teaching them to base jump.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Prehensile toes make for a wider, tail sail, but mass is an issue in the world of soaring simians.
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scuffy b
climber
Eastern Salinia
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Materials:
For 24 ft of crack
Minimum 6 sheets plywood. Using 3/4" is worthwhile for stiffness.
If you strip to 30" you could have two 9" strips for facing.
Unknown amount of dimensional lumber or engineered (TJI).
Lots of screws.
Gary and I used 1/2" allthread. You can use 3/8" but I only found the
big square washers in 1/2", so I went that way.
Texture: opinions vary. Some people like slickness but I think texture is
good for OW cracks.
If you want texture, the way to make it durable is to use epoxy paint
(high initial cost but probably pays off.
Sand works well. Liberally (totally) cover freshly painted surface, press in,
brush off excess after drying. Sparse coverage will feel nasty.
Use the finest sand reasonable, it will feel coarser than you expect.
It sounds like you'll have 16ft of vertical then some steepness.
No roof with lip a la the Kingsbury wish list, but he's on a different
level. Keeping the crack close to your existing structural members will
be essential for minimizing construction headaches.
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rwedgee
Ice climber
canyon country,CA
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A very easy to maake and low cost alternative if you don't have the space. You can't get very far inside it though.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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I do realize how fun the parties are and also constructing---even varying, fiddling with---the structures. But It takes a bunch of work and $ and space too. For me bitd of course, buildings were the most amazing offwidth training opportunities and I gobbled them up like no one else. Here in the Bay Area and in Santa Cruz. I mean it just didn't stop. Offwidths that were even tiled with glossy giant ceramic tiles. Shallow offwidths that might be like 5-8" wide but only 2-4" deep. Offwidths that went on for more than 40 feet on dead vertical walls but could be TR'ed. Weird contrived ones between trim pieces. The variations are plentiful. Seems to me it would be better jumping on buildings in all their variety than grunting out a structure that takes so much time and money to produce a small collection of possibilities. I think buildings provide more opportunities than actual climbing can with a give amount of time and energy. So many important real off widths in the Valley are part of something much bigger, often kinda inaccessible even, and so on. And not, I repeat, not training situations.
I guess I am also thinking of all the other cool things to have that often and in fact go unused: in-ground pools, saunas, hot tubs, backyard skateboard parks, backyard motocross tracks, pool tables, private tennis courts and similar courts. And so on.
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scuffy b
climber
Eastern Salinia
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Points well taken, Peter.
But...
1. He says he's got a great site.
2. He might not have the great selection of buildings that you had.
I use the past tense, because at least two of the wide cracks from
the old days in Berkeley are not there anymore--the Center Street
Crack at the Schwinn dealership, and a corner climb in the back of a
parking lot on Milvia or Bonita.
3. Getting caught by cops is probably more dangerous nowadays than back
then.
Making sure the thing gets properly used is turning out to be a challenge.
SO MANY people want to climb it, but the excuses are myriad, even given my
oh-so-inconvenient location.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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All true Scuff. Our man must form a Wide Fetish satellite group for Wyoming. brrrr. Too.
Oh and worse now gone are the long Stadium cracks. Aren't they redoing the entire stadium? Up near Frat Row?
"And this climb’s crux was a polished off-width, making it utterly loathsome, terrifying to most. The holdless slippery impossibility of these dramatic formations would soar above me like a fatal riddle to which only I and several other brothers world wide knew the secrets. Proud mastery of these techniques resulted from many years experience, and I felt powerful, playful and creative with them."
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2010 - 10:31pm PT
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Peter-
scuffy b is correct. I live miles from NOWHERE in SE Wyoming. Buildings? Where? What are they? I have a huge (6,600 ft^2) metal building that is now mostly unused except for storing CRAP. There is a concrete floor for a solid foundation. Could buy some gymnastics mats to cover entire area around the base for safety. I envision either a 18 or 22 ft structure which should make me barf pretty good, at first.
scuffy-I lived in the Santa Cruz area until 1976, up in Bonny Doon off the Empire Grade. I was a postdoc at UCSC.
Rodger
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Broke, build it and we will come visit. Especially me cause I got family near by.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2010 - 11:55pm PT
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I'm currently working to clear out the 16 years of accumulated CRAP from the building. This will be a big project, I now see.... be patient.
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Sep 10, 2010 - 02:01am PT
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Jaybro, having email issues. I'll be building a wall, crack trainer with adjustable hands to finger plus offwidth. Along with my 16 foot wide mini ramp, I'm turning my new backyard into my fantasy land before October 21st. Just in time for my grand 30 year old birthday bash! I'll check email and get in touch with the artificial offwidth maestros that you mentioned. All help and encouragement accepted eagerly.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Sep 10, 2010 - 02:17am PT
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go Karo!
with a south bay contingent, that isn't over the hill, excuses will be harder to come up with!
and Brokedown! rock on
Dig that Deto simulator Jay!
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Sep 10, 2010 - 03:04am PT
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Get your asses out on some real stone . . . no simulators can compare. Quit your lame city jobs and go where the wind don't blow so strange . . . maybe off in some high cold mountain chain!
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Sep 10, 2010 - 03:15am PT
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I have seen that concrete, and even just sand and Portland cement, will adhere strongly to clean wood. An impasto type application of some sand and cement could provide more naturalistic undulations within the body-sapping confines of a self-built, limbs-only, Iron Maiden torture device.
Flat panels do not exist in the real world.
God, in his infinite rock architecture wisdom, always seems to provide a rare spot where you can breathe normally, and get a teeny bit of a rest.
Undulations in a Crack Machine can embody the idea that Man seeks to mimic God.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 10, 2010 - 08:17am PT
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Like I said, go for the warped boards.......
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2010 - 10:20am PT
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Jaybro-
Ah Hah! Now I understand!
Warped Boards + Warped Mind = OW Crack machine!!
or is it
Warped Boards + OW Crack machine = Warped Mind ??
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 10, 2010 - 10:32am PT
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Let's do the time warp again.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 10, 2010 - 10:55am PT
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Whatever you say, Riff-Raff!
How about a couple of shots of those awesome SLC gym fatties?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 10, 2010 - 11:08am PT
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For Mr Grossman, by request;
"god is dead"-nietzche
(just playing along, Tom)
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scuffy b
climber
Eastern Salinia
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Sep 10, 2010 - 02:41pm PT
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Another idea occurred to me, Brokedown.
If you have some sturdy wall space available, you can build a panel to
sit parallel to it, giving you two corner cracks. This could end up easier
than building a straight-in crack, though ultimately, of course, you will
want everything.
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scuffy b
climber
Eastern Salinia
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Sep 10, 2010 - 02:44pm PT
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Karodrinker, am I right in believing that you climb some with
High Traverse? He can get us together.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 10, 2010 - 02:51pm PT
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In Tempe I had a panel against a wall deal. Somewhere in cyberland there is a diagram of it.
Imagine a 4' x 4' panel of three quarter inch plywood mounted on 4x 6" beams against a wall. Bottom of panel is say, 5' off the ground. Making it possible to invert one's feet and legs into the space between. Panel and wall.
With me so far?
Inside the gap is a rail to heel hook on, making the foot jams bomber.
On the front of the panel are three eyebolts in a triangle pattern. The center lower bolt is to clip into to avoid inerted head honking in case of a slip.
The other 2 bolts are at about arms length when doing an inverted situp. The goal was transfer a chain of 'biners from one eyehole to the other, one at a time. While at the top of the inverted sit-up.
This was the best core conditioner for inverts I ever had!
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Gary Carpenter
climber
SF Bay Area
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Sep 11, 2010 - 09:32pm PT
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RE Cost. I estimate about $200 in materials for the Sunol Antichrist.
Gary
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 11, 2010 - 10:09pm PT
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Compared to how much does it cost to drive to the valley,gas, entrance & camping fees, etc and fail, again, 10' from the top of Sahersr crackerer, and have to repeat?
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 11, 2010 - 11:14pm PT
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Gary-
That's less than I was guessing! THX!
Rodger
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scuffy b
climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
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Jul 15, 2011 - 07:53pm PT
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Rodger, have you made any progress?
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Feb 29, 2012 - 12:30am PT
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Rodger, have you made any progress?
What he said ^^^^
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 29, 2012 - 09:29am PT
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Still working at clearing out 15+ years of accumulated..."stuff." Weather has been too cold to do anything through the Winter.
Yeah, excuses, excuses...and more excuses. Ask me again after I manage to get all my wind damage on my house repaired...
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Sonic
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Dec 14, 2012 - 04:17pm PT
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Winter training bump!
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Dec 14, 2012 - 04:18pm PT
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stay off the crack... mmmkay?
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Johnny K.
climber
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Dec 14, 2012 - 04:27pm PT
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Not a full OW crack machine...but
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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Dec 14, 2012 - 04:44pm PT
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"Dig that Deto simulator Jay!"
Ditto that Munge, Jay must have more pictures?
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Nov 13, 2013 - 01:29pm PT
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Winter is fast approaching, and this thread demands an update. You get that shop cleared out yet?
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Nov 13, 2013 - 03:23pm PT
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OK folks, design challenge: 22' high wall, very long, all 2x6 beams and no shear paneling. It's a huge unreinforced cripple wall on downhill side of house in earthquake country, and I have to cover it all with shear panel for a seismic retrofit. But when I cover it up, I lose access to anchoring into the beams.
I'd like to make a variety of cracks, chimney, dihedrals. It would be easy to slap some 2x12s onto either side of the existing 2x6 and call that a great 1.5" crack. And double up the 2x6s on another beam, slap more 2x12s outside of that and call it a 3" perfect crack. But if I do that, I destroy the whole point of connection for shear paneling from top to bottom.
How would other folks deal with this? Is it stronger to have a single vertical break in the shear paneling, or to offset it to the next beams every 8 feet to stagger it?
Any ideas?
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Nov 13, 2013 - 09:05pm PT
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Bump for Nut's challenge and an update on whatever happened with the OP's project.
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