| Messages 1 - 189 of total 189 in this topic |
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 2, 2010 - 10:54pm PT
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Will we now get back to the only real climbing = multi pitch climbing?
everything else is just 'practice'?
I think it was Vic Copeland's piece or maybe Mick Ryan who wrote about bouldering being a fad.
Has it come full circle yet? Or objectively speaking is there more dollars spent on bouldering gear and comps than on 'regular' climbing?
Just an evening thought.
what do you think?
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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Will we now get back to the only real climbing = multi pitch climbing?
Pot-stirrer.
Climbing is technical movement over your chosen medium: be it pebbles, large rock formations (free or aid), clip-ups, chalk cliffs, buildings or ice.
Division tears the community.
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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I boulder because I cant find partners to "climb" with.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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It may have left Us....
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deepnet
Boulder climber
CA
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thats like comparing a poem to a novel
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Let me think about that question.
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
Springdale UT
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wow. great picture...that says it all.
Personally I enjoy each manifestation of climbing for what it is and the enjoyment I get out of it. Higher is usually more fun for me, but the gamble of not having ropes adds a different kind of flavor. Eventually I may get far enough to get that same spice run out high on a multi pitch and then the equation will get even more complicated...
Its all fun...my goal is to be very well rounded.
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Anastasia
climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
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So... Climbing a boulder is a fad and climbing a mountain is a sport? But babe, you told me that size didn't matter.
AFS
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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Has the fad of bouldering left us?
Oh I hope so.
Curt
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
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I think the OPe is trolling for a nugget of wisdom from jogill .
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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OK, OK, I have an answer
if it's fun, just do it!
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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are you kidding? no munge you just hang out with the crusty supertopo vets.
The Circuit is building the largest indoor bouldering gym in the country right now in Portland.
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Frogjamm
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Yes, the seventies are right around the corner. Fear not, this brave new world will implode soon enough.
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Dingus Milktoast
Gym climber
Come on in boys, the water's fine!
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I don't know munge, the cool kids won't let me hang with the anyway.
Anastasia, yes and so too was mountain biking. Now its road biking, and all the cool kids stowed their mountain bikes and dropped the big dime on new road bikes.
Just because its a fad doesn't mean there aren't core dedicated bikers and boulderers.
MisterE - I do not agree. I think the 'friction of styles' is a manufactured fart cloud perpetrated mostly by OUR generation. My experience is that younger climbers don't get their panties wadded over it.
DMT
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Hah! No way, in fact the "fad" is now to boulder big walls! Go Honnold!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Its all fun...my goal is to be very well rounded
Well, just wait a while and you, like most of us, will become rounder and rounder.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Who am us anyhow?!? Bouldering is still growing even though it makes my joints ache just thinking about it. LOL
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
SoCal
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No. It's worse than ever. The latest Climbing has an article on bouldering in the Sequoia back country (With Angel Wings right there!). Also, someone recently did a piece on Himalayan high country bouldering.
This is not good. I can barely climb V0.
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Jeremy Ross
Gym climber
North Fork, CA
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"Real climbing". As in climbing something you have no chance of falling on and calling it " bold" because you placed a few nuts?? ;)
-JR
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
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I'm going to start a munge climbing fad, 51% of the route
must be covered in moss or rapidly decomposing
choss to qualify.
Hope to have the website up later this year.
It's gonna be huge!
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Moof
Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
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I think we have seen a general softening of the 'chic' of climbing. Not long ago it seemed like we had climbing walls as backdrops of sitcoms, Mathew McConaughey falling off sport climbs as a plot device, and so on. Either I'm watching less TV (sadly not true), or climbing has faded out of our national fascination a bit.
Bouldering still has a lot of ethics to overcome, driven largely by the low cost of entry, IMO. A pair of shows and a pad, and your good to go. Little to no mentoring required. Braided trails andflattened foliage results.
Not dead, but thankfully it looks from my meager perspective like the explosive growth of climbing in general has slowed.
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weschrist
Gym climber
left sac
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JR sends it.
we have the same jacket... did yours break 2nd day?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2010 - 10:06am PT
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nice philG! thread stopper in 3 posts. :)
killer response everyone btw.
this one wins a prize!
I'm going to start a munge climbing fad, 51% of the route
must be covered in moss or rapidly decomposing
choss to qualify.
brilliance!
I kid and pot stir in the OP...
However, I've always thought bouldering was the most democratic form of technical climbing, essentially scrambling or what John Gill calls 'option soloing'
Yet, I find myself bouldering less and less, tho no less inspired by folks sending the shiz and was partly curious as to whether we just hang with the crusties or whether bouldering numbers have dropped?
given the number of young kick ass folks sending at planet granie on a tuesday night or thursday in the winter, the answer is a resounding ' fuk no, it's still going strong and more so than ever'
the barrier to entry is low, and as said above, the ethics and adoption of ethics may not be there just yet.
carpet swaths will return!!!
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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The fad will fade
the soul will remain.
you know,
kinda like fanny packs.
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weschrist
Gym climber
left sac
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My dad started bouldering years ago. The Front Part Deux let him ride on my pass since he only came in when it was slow. I took him out on real rock a few times... while we were working a vblahblahblah, he came around the bolder and said "hey, there is an easier way up over here..."
He was too cheap to buy a chalk bag, so he use A FANNY PACK. I was a bit embarrassed when I learned my pa was climbing with an old black leather fanny pack, but I got over it quick because at least he was climbing.
Once he complained to me "why pay $1 for 2oz of chalk when I can pay $4 for 9oz of talc at Costco." Cheap bastard! I explained that not all white powder was the same and told him he wasn't allowed to put baby powder all over the holds in the gym!
Well, a month after he drowned on his cancerous orange lung butter, I was going through his stuff. I found the old fanny pack and shoes he used to use and took them down to Vegas. A friend and I were doing Lev 29 and I figured I would take the memory of my pa along for the ride.
I was climbing like sh#t... didn't fall, but certainly didn't feel solid. I attributed it to having just lost my father. Since I was being weak, I had my partner lead pitch 4. After following I immediately led pitch 5 and linked it with pitch 6, for 280' of continuous climbing. About 40 feet from the anchors, pumped as sh#t, I realized I kept smelling "baby powder." I nearly laughed myself off the wall.
Totally avoiding responsibility and rambling...
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apogee
climber
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That's a great story, wes.
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SeanH
climber
San Mateo, CA
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All climbing is fun.
That said, this trend of hiking out to alpine areas like Mt. Evans and similar RMNP bouldering spots to do 7 heinous crimps on a pebble...kinda weird. Go climb a mountain! To each their own though.
I boulder in the gym for strength/fun, and would probably have a blast in bishop. But I have yet to make the drive all the way out to the east side with a pad in the back of my ride instead of a rope.
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t*r
Mountain climber
~ soulitude ~
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i like multi pitch climbing but i get scared when i can't see the leader :(
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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I sure hope the fad of bouldering is over...I'm tired of you clowns greasing up my boulders
Wes-best you've ever posted.
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ec
climber
ca
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The latest Climbing has an article on bouldering in the Sequoia back country (With Angel Wings right there!).
'never had picked-up a climbing rag for years and see this at a friend's house last month. Impressively. the most ridiculous thing I'd ever seen.
Then, while 4-wheeling out of Bald Mountain (near Shaver Lake, CA) after climbing, we see a ToyoTruck coming in with pads in the back...
Whatever...
 ec
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
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Yes Wes,, indeed a nice post from You!
and I like pebble pad people, keeps them off the normal crags....;-)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Modern boulderers do some amazing stuff, and the focus on bouldering over the last 15+ years has probably generally advanced climbing standards. (And gyms, and ...) Plus it's a pretty good entry-level drug for other kinds of climbing.
There are concerns in terms of the impacts of boulderers, who seem often to travel in herds. All the usual - trails, trampling, waste. Plus noise, and the presence of "uncouth" groups. All disturbing to land managers and some of the public.
It is sometimes hard to take boulderers seriously, given their group behaviours, the ever-present videocameras and cameras, their uniforms, and the idea that we have to treat it like it's a BFD.
ps Liked Wes' story.
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hooblie
climber
from where the anecdotes roam
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^^^wes goes platinum, hanky please
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2010 - 03:12pm PT
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First boulders are always free Anders!
Nice rambling Wes
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Transporter Room 2
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Good story, Wes.
I didn't even know there was a fad goin' on!
It's ALL just climbing, right? Just a flava you fancy.
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Swimming in LEB tears.
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This thread makes me SO ANGRY
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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If you would have told me ten years ago that I would end mostly a boulderer, I would have laughed at you.
Now, with kid and job, it's pretty much the only climbing I do. You know what, it's not that bad.
I'll never be just a boulderer, but it has all the good elements of climbing but compacted into a short distance.
As for popularity, I can't speak for other areas, but Bishop seems to be getting more popular with boulderers rather than less.
They are catching on that the season is longer than advertised.
The new guide book may play a role too.
In short, if it's a fad- I don't see it. It's popular because it's good.
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Transporter Room 2
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I have a nice beanie now, too.
Score! ;-)
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10b4me
Ice climber
Happy Boulders
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at my age, bouldering is about the only thing I can do
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AllezAllez510
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Lambone says:
"are you kidding? no munge you just hang out with the crusty supertopo vets.
The Circuit is building the largest indoor bouldering gym in the country right now in Portland. "
Because there's so much bouldering in Portland right?
Plenty of decent roped climbing in town, but PDX is a bouldering black hole...except for Carver which basically has five decent problems all of which i've done a million times.
I used to go to the circuit's original location and can tell you it was gumby central. On most nights I'd say easily 75% of the clientele had never climbed outside...and they're pulling down hard.
Having said that...the place had good route setting and was a pretty good place to train...except for the music which was usually godawful Euro house crap.
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Fanny pack bump.
Thanks for the story Wes.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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i have never seen so many climbers, period.
between the gyms and the crags,
i mean there has never been so many boulder freaks at crsp, and i have been going there since 1971.
there used to be no parking lot, you could drive all the way up to the out house.
now the only car you see up there is the meat wagon.
i talk to the rock the whole time i am climbing,
kind of like mark fydrich, the pitcher, anybody remember him?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rm_jU0b5Hgw
so everybody thinks i'm a freak to be avoided, hey man,
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Randisi
Boulder climber
East Side
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I had thought that bouldering was dead back in the mid-Nineties. Then pads became popular...
But judging from all the chalk-smeared footholds and chalk-caked, unbrushed handholds I've been seeing since I returned to California (I'm not saying it only happens here), I'd say that boulderers have certainly gotten dumber.
I just visited Indian and Mortar Rock in Berkeley for the first time in ten years, and I've never seen it so ill cared for: dirt all over any hold within five feet of the ground and glass shards in what dirt has actually remained on the ground. I'm not sure if such neglect indicates an increase or a decrease in the amount of boulderers however.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Also, someone recently did a piece on Himalayan high country bouldering.
Oscar Eckenstein conducted a bouldering competition for natives in a village in the Kashmirs in 1892. He gave prizes of one rupee for each "winner", and commented the best there were far superior to any Swiss guide he had known. He might have mixed feelings about the beanies these days, however . . .
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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I'm not really "old school", started climbing in 1995. Went to the buttermilks a fair bit back then, and usually saw only one other car (if any). Then didn't go back again until 2002. A dozen cars plus. These days, we all know the scene. I met Mick Ryan when I was down there, just as the craze was underway. Nice guy, invited me to his house. Boy, did he find the right place at the right time.
As long as climbing stays popular, bouldering will be at the forefront in my opinion. Back when I started climbing, it wasn't an end in itself so much as it was just good training for power / extreme movements to help you with routes.
"Cruxes, cruxes, cruxes" said Ron Kauk on the subject. You do enough bouldering and you'll end up doing pretty much every hard move you could ever enncounter on a route, That'show I used to look at it, prior to joining the rest of the pad people.
Even Ben Moon doesn't climb routes anymore, according to a recent interview. He said he packed away sport climbing almost a decade ago.
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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My kids climb harder than most of you old crusty farts.
I doubt it. Nice pics, though.
Curt
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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You're exempt of course.
Thanks.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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I started out bouldering and did it for years before I started leading and doing multi-pitch, so in reality my climbing is just an extension of my bouldering foundation. And then you get to aid and throw everything out the window.
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Reeotch
Trad climber
Kayenta, AZ
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I've always regarded "climbers", who say they don't boulder, with suspicion . . .
Actually they're just a bunch of whiners . . .
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Tahoe climber
climber
Davis these days
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Has the fad of eating pasta left us yet?
Because we would rather get back to eating just steak for every meal.
TC
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OfBlinkingThings
Boulder climber
Jacksonville, Fl
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Has the fad of bouldering left us?
Not while I'm around. I'm glad to be among the company of Gill, Sherman, Bachar and all the others who loved this "fad."
Have the fads of practicing problems on top rope, 10 crashpads per vertical foot, beanie wearing, boombox playing, fag-dashing and general douchery left us?
I hope so.
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Ill second your sentiments about boomboxes.
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Gregg Olson
Boulder climber
Moorpark, Ca
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I have heard it said more then a few times that the hardest single moves in rock climbing have always been done and always will be done on the boulders. Bouldering is also (among real climbers) regarded as the purest form of rock climbing. Also... Im pretty sure toping out on a highball with a bad landing gets a "real climbing " rating !! Having done many very committing multi pitch climbs myself and bouldered many committing highballs, I can tell you there is no difference in the reward, emotion, and rush between the two. Maybe you just need to step up your bouldering choices Mungeclimber !!
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Tahoe climber
climber
Davis these days
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Didn't Royal Robbins himself start out as a boulderer?
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Spider Savage - Really great pics! I recognize the buttermilks of course, and I think Joe's Valley. What other spots are shown?
And, I defy anyone here sniffing their nose at bouldering as not being "real climbing" to try some of today's new wave highballs. Not even the ones in the extreme levels of difficulty department. Once you get past the 15 foot mark, you're into the same level of commitment as a lot of spicey roped routes.
Have a look at this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HSsdFlotCrA
Watch till the end. Forget that it's a V10 problem. Even if it was V1, I'd bet the farm very few of the "bouldering is a fad" climbers wouldn't sh#t themselves, no matter how many pads you have beneath you. I'm sure I would.
Past that, I know a lot of people who solely boulder, and not very many of them talk sh#t about guys who want to rope up and stroll around on 5.9 all day. I wonder why that is.
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jghedge
climber
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"Once you get past the 15 foot mark, you're into the same level of commitment as a lot of spicey roped routes."
With a stack of pads below you? No. That's a ridiculous statement.
Plus, you get hurt 5 pitches up and it's a much bigger deal than if you're on the ground.
And you wonder why people talk sh#t...
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WBraun
climber
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LOL Joe
yer killin me man ....
hahaha ......
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Yea, Im with jghedge also...
Bouldering is a great way to spend an hour or two after work or with the kids, but by no means is it as dangerous as falling off a cliff in the back country.
Too bad I don't get more opportunities to fall off sh#t in the back country.
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Give it a rest. I've done tons of long, hard commiting routes and highball bouldering. Stop being a hater. Watch the video of Lisa Rands doing a 30+ foot V10 with the crux near the top. You think you have the stones to try it? Even with a stack of pads? No, you don't.
And I said "a lot of spicey roped routes". Not "all". But of course you purposely tried to make it sound like I was. Because otherwise you'd have no possibility of retort. Reading comprehension, it's a good thing. Stop letting your insecurity cloud your understanding. Right, off you go.
"Once you get past the 15 foot mark, you're into the same level of commitment as a lot of spicey roped routes."
With a stack of pads below you? No. That's a ridiculous statement.
Plus, you get hurt 5 pitches up and it's a much bigger deal than if you're on the ground.
And you wonder why people talk sh#t... "
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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"Didn't Royal Robbins himself start out as a boulderer?"
Pretty much all the cutting edge roped climbers used bouldering as an integral part of training. John Long, Bachar, Kauk. It allows you to work your skill on the hardest moves in a relatively safe environment, so that when you do encounter some tough business in a spicey situation, you'll have that much more confidence. I'll take their word over those of some hater who wants to pretend like bouldering is an affront to "real" climbing. What a joke.
Like I said before, I rarely have ever heard anyone who only boulders talk sh#t about climbing on a rope. They simply don't care what other people do. But the reverse doesn't seem to be true. Rope only climbers seem to be very concerned that everyone know they are "real" climbers because they get a few pitches off the ground and place their own gear.
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jghedge
climber
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"And I said "a lot of spicey roped routes". Not "all". But of course you purposely tried to make it sound like I was. Because otherwise you'd have no possibility of retort."
Even easy, non-spicey, multi-pitch routes are more dangerous than a highball boulder problem by virtue of the fact that you're exponentially more screwed if anything happens hundreds of feet off the ground as opposed to being at ground level. Compound fracture, 5 pitches up, can't just lower down to the belay because you're past the halfway mark on the rope, going into shock...or, you're on the ground and your buddies just pick you up and carry you to the hospital. The friggin' Nutcracker is dicier than any highball for exactly that reason.
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Weld_it
Trad climber
Chatsworth
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boldering is RAD, but all them pads are like nine men kissing.... SUPA GHEY!!!!!!
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jghedge
climber
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"John Long, Bachar, Kauk. It allows you to work your skill on the hardest moves in a relatively safe environment, so that when you do encounter some tough business in a spicey situation, you'll have that much more confidence. I'll take their word over those of some hater who wants to pretend like bouldering is an affront to "real" climbing. What a joke."
The Big 3 you mentioned would never have dreamed of only bouldering, though. And the "haters" deride you not because bouldering is an affront to "real" climbing, but because people who only boulder try to call themselves climbers. Also, the more the slander bothers you, the more obvious the accuracy of the slander becomes, and the greater it's entertainment value. You are at the bottom of the slander chain, as it were - sport climbers get to slander boulderers, trad climbers get to slander sport climbers, and alpine climbers get to slander...well, pretty much everyone. Don't like it? Tough.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Didn't John sometimes call his soloing "bouldering in the sky"? As the essence of bouldering is no rope and (likely) considerable difficulty relative to the climber's abilities, an accurate summary.
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Weld-it just got quoted on Facebook.
But my "supa ghey" pads have saved my body from some hard landings for sure, So I think supa ghey is alright with me.
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Weld_it
Trad climber
Chatsworth
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pucker up sailer!
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R.B.
Big Wall climber
Land on the Lahar
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Bouldering leads to sport climbing as free soloing leads to trad cliff climbing as rad trad lead climbing leads to big wall climbing as Lycra leads to being a padder ....
It's all climbing lads, it's all about the style you use to combat the gravity, since that is the one thing that's in common to it all. Seems like it's not as easy to pull the rads anymore, could it be that extra coupla pounds on the frame, eh?
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Paco
Trad climber
Montana
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Recently spent several days in squamish...bouldering is VERY much alive.
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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You are at the bottom of the slander chain, as it were - sport climbers get to slander boulderers, trad climbers get to slander sport climbers, and alpine climbers get to slander...well, pretty much everyone. Don't like it? Tough.
I hope you're still merely a good troll and not starting to believe your own BS.
Curt
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Mick Ryan
Trad climber
The Peaks
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Mick Ryan is a fad.
Mick Ryan
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Mick Ryan
Trad climber
The Peaks
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In answer to your question Munge.
No way is bouldering a fad. People bin a-bouldering for centuries. Pre-dates that multi-pitch stuff.
Proper climbing, un-proper climbing....s'all climbing, s'all fun.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2010 - 05:37pm PT
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Just remember, fashion is circular. You will come back around Mick. heh
s'all good, but don't stop climbing related threads ya'll.
great pics Chinny Chin Chin
Don't have any of my own, but I dig Salad's kid as a toddler bustin out all pirate stylee!!
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Shattered my ankle trying to do highball in '85. Now I don't highball.
That was before pads. However, same result if you miss the pad.
Interesting datum for boulderers: A 150 lb weight falling 10 ft generates 2,000 lbs of force. (don't recall the source)
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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I'll vouch for chinchen's kids.
By the way, I'm back around but my cell phone went with the old job.
I'm thinking BBQ this weekend, maybe a quick trip to the happies.
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Sounds fun Tom! Give me a shout.
Thanks for the props Munge.
I gave up bouldering tonight when I went to the Buttermilks to find two euro twits cooking spaghetti under the birthday boulder warmup prow....
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Transporter Room 2
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I, too, am diggin' the tiny pirate.
Workin' the startin' moves, he is.
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Yea pretty damn cute! That chalk bag is almost as big as he is!
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Branscomb
Trad climber
Lander, WY
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I hope so, then I can have it all to myself! Ha!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2010 - 10:24am PT
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"she" is. That's baby T.
Baby S came later.
Salad, post up the S boy firing.
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Tahoe climber
climber
Davis these days
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Sep 10, 2010 - 09:13am PT
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jhedge is a douche.
just an fyi.
don't like it?
tough.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 10, 2010 - 09:38am PT
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Eveyone's doin' it.
Even guys who can't match their shoes....
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Sep 10, 2010 - 09:59am PT
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kind of like mark fydrich, the pitcher, anybody remember him?
Yeah, I saw him pitch in Evansville.
I hope bouldering doesn't fade away. My newest strategy at Josh is to get a kid boulderer to put the first piece in for me.
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Sep 10, 2010 - 10:08am PT
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These two don't think that it's a "fad"...
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
CA
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Sep 10, 2010 - 11:08am PT
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I spent 800 days in the sierra by my 20th birthday,
started climbing when i was 12.
When I opened Art of Climbing at 33 in Chatsworth near many boulding devotees holy grail, stoney point,i had only been there three times before.
ok i care about the place, lobbied for and got a night time parking restriction which greatly reduced graffitti and broken glass...
but...
I always wanted to print a T-Shirt
only just a little tongue in cheek.....
If it isn't three pitches high,
it isn't worth doing
maybe that's why i never got any good!
i hated to boulder.
and detested the rich lake beta fest mentality of
"that goes like this" blah blah...
actually, i never really wanted to do any route more than once.
I always associated climbing, and enjoyed the process,
of having to think.
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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Sep 10, 2010 - 11:22am PT
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Bouldering is the most real, but only if you can answer the question "what is "real"?" !?
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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Sep 10, 2010 - 11:25am PT
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You're a fad :)
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SharpSpoons
Boulder climber
SD,CA
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Sep 10, 2010 - 11:42am PT
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It may be because I'm a newbie, but doesn't hating on bouldering seem a little elitist to anyone? I mean it is the cheapest and best intro to climbing isn't it? Thats like, at least to me, big wave surfers hating on a guy from Nebraska who is just learning how to surf, or a grom learning how to drop in properly.
I understand disliking those who ruin the experience by leaving a mess or being obnoxious, but I find it incredibly odd that NONE of the Trad climbers or the Alpine climbers have never run into their own ilk being just as rude and obnoxious.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
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Sep 10, 2010 - 12:01pm PT
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Did anybody like THRUTCH? I was thinking about downloading it.
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Tfish
Sport climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Sep 10, 2010 - 01:54pm PT
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Its a progression of things. You start off bouldering then TR, then sport, then trad, then aid, then Big wall. Boulderers aren't as evolved...it's just science.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Sep 10, 2010 - 05:05pm PT
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Two words.....JOHN GILL. The man is a wonder and thank god he took it serious! He got me pumped on bouldering and I still find it a meditation on rock, kinesthetic flow the marvel of moving on stone!
Peace
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Sep 10, 2010 - 07:22pm PT
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^^^
the haulbag is a nice touch.
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Sep 10, 2010 - 09:16pm PT
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My contribution. On Strength in Numbers at The Sad (I think) boulders. Bishop, 2002.
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Sep 10, 2010 - 09:24pm PT
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That's what I was talking about previously. I've spent tons of time both boudering and racked up with gear.
The crowds at many of the bouldering sessions I've been a part of over the years have sometimes been huge. Yet, in all that time I almost never hear boulderers bagging on people who choose instead to climb 5.6 on a rope. Yet the reverse is not the case, as you have noticed.
Seems like people who are way into bouldering are simply having too good a time to care what other people are doing.
Bouldering as training for getting better at roped climbing is essential, IMO. Some people of course do it as an end in itself, and it is easy to see why. Besides the lack of expense and (for the most part) risk, it simply is the purest form of climbing.
"It may be because I'm a newbie, but doesn't hating on bouldering seem a little elitist to anyone? I mean it is the cheapest and best intro to climbing isn't it? Thats like, at least to me, big wave surfers hating on a guy from Nebraska who is just learning how to surf, or a grom learning how to drop in properly.
I understand disliking those who ruin the experience by leaving a mess or being obnoxious, but I find it incredibly odd that NONE of the Trad climbers or the Alpine climbers have never run into their own ilk being just as rude and obnoxious."
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2010 - 11:01pm PT
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real bouldering...
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Sep 10, 2010 - 11:13pm PT
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What are you doing? Laddering?
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2 l l
Sport climber
Rancho Verga, CA
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Sep 11, 2010 - 01:34am PT
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Hey smellz ,
Nice outside edge.
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Sep 11, 2010 - 06:31am PT
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"real bouldering..."
Is the Le Conte?
That's where I taught myself basic aiding and jugging. Me and my even less experienced parter needed something to do while we waited out a grey, drizzly day. So equipped with a copy of "freedom of the hills" and some borrowed gear, we spent the afternoon futzing around. Good times.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 11, 2010 - 10:31am PT
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bjj: The crowds at many of the bouldering sessions I've been a part of over the years have sometimes been huge. The crowds, and associated behaviours, are things which deter me from modern bouldering. I like to boulder, and climb, quietly.
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426
climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Sep 11, 2010 - 12:58pm PT
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maybe that's why i never got any good!
i hated to boulder.
and detested the rich lake beta fest mentality of
"that goes like this" blah blah...
actually, i never really wanted to do any route more than once.
I always associated climbing, and enjoyed the process,
of having to think.
I'd say this is really truthful and accurate...if you can't do "hard" moves just off the ground, no way you're doing them "on high".
I boulder with a bunch of kids that send hard stuff (to me anyhoo) and would argue that bouldering is dammed cerebral...
Nobody can spray beta @ me though, too tall and climb with my own suck style...in MacLeod's book he definitely favors bouldering as one of the best ways to improve your climbing...young or old, fat or skinny...
R U 1 in 10?
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Gregg Olson
Boulder climber
Moorpark, Ca
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Sep 11, 2010 - 01:33pm PT
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The picture of Munge aiding up a boulder pretty much says it all !! No wonder he started this post and does not understand bouldering ... Do you think that is a more "real" form of climbing then bouldering ? LOL !!!!
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Gregg Olson
Boulder climber
Moorpark, Ca
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Sep 11, 2010 - 02:38pm PT
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John Gill ????...Did the master leave us ?? His website says 1953 - 2010 ??
Edit : Please see below. He is fine !!
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Gregg Olson
Boulder climber
Moorpark, Ca
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Sep 11, 2010 - 03:45pm PT
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Jeezzz !! Im a bone head... I just went back and that is exactly what it looks like. All that lame bouldering Im doing must be making me a bit slow in the head !!
Thanks,
G-
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Sep 11, 2010 - 03:59pm PT
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Just finished transcribing an interview of John Gill and what an insight, I got to listen and write his words. He IS bouldering and lead many of us from the 60's, 70's and 80's on a pilgrimage to find out what bouldering is about to each individual and for me, he said it true....that it is a meditation, a pure love for movement on the rock, an end in itself.
Thanks John for your influence and motivation for so many years!
Peace
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Gregg Olson
Boulder climber
Moorpark, Ca
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Sep 11, 2010 - 08:43pm PT
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Ron... Is there any way I could see or read what you just did for John ? He is and was a tremendous inspiration to me. I learned the essence of moving over stone from watching him climb. FyI for all you "Real Climbers" out there he climbed 5.10 in the 1950's and 5.12 in the 60's before real climbing shoes were even made and with the grace and style of a zen or Ti Chi master.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Sep 11, 2010 - 10:39pm PT
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what was the question again?
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Sep 11, 2010 - 10:42pm PT
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the question was,
"has the pad of bouldering left us..."
which is silly, i see pads left and right.
crsp, taser park, woodson, j tree, pads everywhere.
enuff ozone depletion to cause al gore to sh#t his already diahrea pants,
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Sep 11, 2010 - 11:03pm PT
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boulderz4lyfe, yo.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Sep 11, 2010 - 11:06pm PT
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if we get the chinese to start importing rope,
then the kids will toss the pads and rack up.
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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Sep 11, 2010 - 11:16pm PT
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More specifically to Ron Gomez's link, I give you the following, lest one think it is a "fad" :
Where and when did documented bouldering start? Some think it began with Chris Sharma in the early 1990s. Others believe it started with me in the 1950s. Still others think that Pierre Allain and his 'Bleausards initiated the sport in the 1930s. In fact, climbers were scrambling about on boulders in Fontainebleau as early as 1874. Does scrambling and easy climbing on boulders constitute bouldering? If so, then the 'Bleau climbers may have been the first to document an appreciation of the sport.
And the more specific link:
http://www128.pair.com/r3d4k7/Bouldering_History1.0.html
Good to see you back, OG Crusher BVB
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Sep 12, 2010 - 07:13am PT
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Gregg I will have to secure permission from the owners of the content...it's an ongoing project that I was fortunate enough to get John's interview to transcribe. It is not my material and when the project is done it WILL be worth buying a copy of it. Some priceless stuff in this and many other interviews...historical to say the least, priceless if yer a climber!
Peace
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OfBlinkingThings
Boulder climber
Jacksonville, Fl
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Sep 12, 2010 - 09:10am PT
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I just finished reading stone crusade again.
Bouldering a fad?
I don't think so.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Sep 12, 2010 - 09:18am PT
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hahahaha,
munge is gonna have to invest in a big ass live well.
hey ron-- i met up with alex and oakley on friday. they sure are putting a lot of effort into that film. and good on you for sticking through one of the transcription sessions-- most folks don't understand how much difficult labor it is.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 12, 2010 - 10:17am PT
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does not understand bouldering
yup, I dun't understand the boulderz Gregg O. :)
I only climb the easy ones... and I have the wrong pants...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 12, 2010 - 10:19am PT
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Sprock, you may be onto a correct interpretation...
has the pad of bouldering left us, as in have we gone back to swaths of carpet again? all dangerz and shit!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 12, 2010 - 10:21am PT
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ah, maybe this is the future?!?!?!
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Sep 12, 2010 - 10:25am PT
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Hey Kerwin good to hear from you! Thanks a bunch for meeting with them, seems like a cool project, glad to help out where I can. Jeeezus no doubt that is a labor intensive thing to transcribe, but this is the sort of thing that NEEDS to get done for those in the future to read and for the preservation of the words and knowledge of those that have come before us. What I got out of doing this is WAY bigger than the work I put into it!
Peace
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Gregg Olson
Boulder climber
Moorpark, Ca
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Sep 12, 2010 - 01:48pm PT
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Munge... Its not the pants holding you back, its the shoes and the hair !! Is that a mullet ? I think I still have some of those pants around... along with my red and white striped lycra tights and green ninjas !!
But more importantly, WHERE IS THAT BOULDER LOCATED ?? What an awesome piece of rock. My hands are sweating and Im drooling now !!
P.S. Hay Munge... Please don't put a bolt ladder on it !!
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Sep 12, 2010 - 04:08pm PT
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Gregg, try hunting in TM, over by Pywiak, in the creek drainage.
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AWhit
Trad climber
Bozeman, MT
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Sep 12, 2010 - 08:29pm PT
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may the fad of keyboard climbers leave us soon as well.
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Weld_it
Trad climber
Chatsworth
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Sep 12, 2010 - 08:30pm PT
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RAD!!!!!!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 13, 2010 - 03:39pm PT
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Awhit, no doubt. friggin bunch of wankers those wanna be internetzers.
:)
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weschrist
Gym climber
left sac
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Sep 13, 2010 - 03:41pm PT
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beautiful pebble mungie.
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
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Sep 13, 2010 - 04:08pm PT
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I challenge Munge to a sitstart standoff of at least 3 moves in a row.
Slabs are out of bounds.
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Oxymoron
Big Wall climber
total Disarray
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Sep 13, 2010 - 04:10pm PT
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Bouldering is good stuff. It'll be around as long as climbing itself is.
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hooblie
climber
from where the anecdotes roam
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Sep 13, 2010 - 04:59pm PT
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the future of bouldering is unlimited
gonna be totally sick. highball comin!
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Sep 13, 2010 - 07:07pm PT
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nice munge.
131 and climbing.
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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Sep 14, 2010 - 05:46pm PT
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the flying saucer - rad!
nice pic Munge.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 15, 2010 - 04:54pm PT
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K, I'm trying, but it's a tough battle.
goat! That's not a fair contest. "Slabs are out of bounds."
It ain't real bouldering til yer dragging yer left side up a slabby sit start!!!
:)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 15, 2010 - 04:55pm PT
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This is the future!
you all know what size that is!
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scuffy b
climber
Eastern Salinia
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Sep 16, 2010 - 02:16pm PT
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How tall? 4 ft?
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OfBlinkingThings
Boulder climber
Jacksonville, Fl
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Sep 16, 2010 - 02:35pm PT
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Anything taller than 4 ft and we have to rehearse the moves on top-rope, right?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 16, 2010 - 03:31pm PT
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rehearsal is mandatory
Scuff, with the cut away base, hands get inserted just below half height.
It's ready for you! 8 mile approach.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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Sep 16, 2010 - 05:25pm PT
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Never thought of bouldering as a fad. John Gill certainly set a standard of climbing that captivated the likes of many including John Bachar and John Long. Recently tried bouldering and if it is a "Fad" it's here to stay.
Climbing rock is just that. There's all kinds. Like people and races. None is really better than the rest. Joy and Peace, Lynne
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 16, 2010 - 05:31pm PT
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Even if it looks eerily like an Offwidth Headstone...
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Sep 16, 2010 - 06:37pm PT
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New school OW bouldering, anyone?
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Jan 23, 2011 - 12:54am PT
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"Climbing is technical movement over your chosen medium." ~ MisterE
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DanaB
climber
Philadelphia
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Jan 23, 2011 - 09:27am PT
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Maybe fads are just a fad?
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gonamok
climber
aging malcontent
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Jan 23, 2011 - 11:04pm PT
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Boulders have been victimized by this "bouldering" craze for far too long. Instead of being productive members of society, these kooks spend their days wearing funny shoes and lugging small mattresses around, to feed their need to put chalk on innocent rocks, unmindful that they may be ruining my wilderness experience. The sooner this fad peters out, the better if you ask me.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2011 - 11:08pm PT
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LOL!!!
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Jan 24, 2011 - 08:07am PT
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Every time I'm done bouldering, the fad is over. Then it starts up again the next time I go bouldering. It's all climbing, it's all a "fad", and it's all dangerous. I went slab climbing yesterday, now that's a scary fad. You slabmasters are sick in the head. A good thing though.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Apr 15, 2011 - 03:06pm PT
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The little ballerina shoes, the pad for your naptime, sets of brushes and blowtubes, tape and manicure implements.
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Jeremy Ross
Gym climber
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Then, while 4-wheeling out of Bald Mountain (near Shaver Lake, CA) after climbing, we see a ToyoTruck coming in with pads in the back...
Whatever...
Haha there's this thing called "after work bouldering", sounds like it was my buddy's truck. What's funny about this statement is that 4-wheeling out at Bald Mountain is like the gym climbing of 4X4.
Whatever....
-JR
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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The bouldering near bald mountain sucks, what a joke even going there, although it is a nice drinking spot
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Jeremy Ross
Gym climber
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Oh man that does suck! That sucky guy climbing was probably in the toyota, too haha!
You been climbing much Doughnut? Justin and McLemore just headed up to Tollhouse for the afternoon. Go solo their routes!
-JR
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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No recent climbing (unless tollhouse traverse counts, but I'm riding my bike alot and losing my belly, if I can get down to about 123 maybe I can keep up with Kenny!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2013 - 01:47pm PT
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dab on the sessel boulder. heh
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Snowmassguy
Trad climber
Calirado
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I dont think pads even existed ( or were not mainstream anyway) when I started bouldering. Love bouldering but have always felt like a tool carrying a big ass pad around. Bouldering is cool none the less. Nothing like a good session to clear the head after a long day . Add in a nice run to boulder and you got yourself a fun little workout. Im bringin' bouldering back.
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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i have done that boulder problem at bald mt. that area has some fun bouldering there.
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Are you sure, most the bouldering I've seen in the area looks alot like the choss pile in the picture. Rattlesnake Rock is much better than Bald Mountain too bad it got closed.
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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no, it has not left us. it's improved. the latest addition is to bring a hammer and chisel with you. after all.... they're not just for 'heading any more....
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gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
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LEFT US??? I don't know about you hosers...but I'm just getting started!
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prickle
Gym climber
globe,az
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i'm too lazy to bother with routes anymore.too much work
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Lurking Fear
Boulder climber
Bishop, California
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I think we're fooling ourselves if we think it's a fad. It's just too easy to hang out at the boulders. No one even cares if you climb, and you always have a nice seat. I'm seeing a new trend where large groups from gyms come out in force to an area. I also see a lot of bottles of beer at the boulders. From some climber's perspective it's the perfect type of climbing. From a Bishop perspective things have not improved since I've been here. I don't mind the crowds, but it's still easy to get away from the crowds when you want to. Bald Mountain is definitely choss and you still have the crowds.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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They're making routes where every single hold is manufactured, and people are claiming that chipping is ok now. The gym climbers are overpopulating and bringing the gym with them everywhere they go. Instead of learning from experienced climbers they learn how to do a double gaston off a finger pocket but don't know how to make an anchor. Luckily they tend to stay off the real routes.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Or, if they have to hike.
How about making a rollup sheet of material with holds on it that you just drape over a blank boulder. Maybe even a blow-dryer (solar-powered of course) could shrinkwrap the material onto the blank boulder. When you leave, you cut the wrap off and go home and attach a corset drawstring to the sheet so you can reattach the next time without the blowdryer.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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I started bouldering pretty much the same month I first took acid -- 40 years ago this October. Clearly, bouldering is a corrupter of youth, and cut severely into time I could have spent Ice Climbing or Walling or otherwise bettering myself. Let the fad fade, for the sake of the children.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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I just read a paper that found that excessive bouldering prolongs bed-wetting.
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SeaClimb
climber
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No fad...the youth love it.
Right now, ABS nationals are happening. This is a sport not likely to die out.
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James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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When there are boulder problems like these- would you want to stop?
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Dingus Milktoast
Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
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Cosumness!
DMT
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Bouldering is fun. It will always be so.
5.2~5.12, anyone? Only climberfolk go there.
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Michelle
Social climber
Toshi's Station, picking up power converters.
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Cosumness!
Yay!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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This is a funny page.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Personally, I pine for the day when this absurd, transient sport "climbing" fad goes away once and for all. It's an embarassment -- the practice of sport "climbing" is the mp3 of the climbing experience. Sport climbing takes the totality of the rich and deeply spiritual mental landscape of the quest and compresses all the life out of it. No bass; shrill, tinny highs; the meat, soul, richness, texture and depth: digitized and plasticized out of existance. Niel Young and I are aghast, and vigorously object. Super-highball bouldering, and smaller, exquisite blocs writ by the hand of God himself arrayed in ambrosian glens of old-growth conifers, rich soft meadows festooned with wildflowers, rainbows arcing across a cloudless sky of indigo blue, and a sane and honorable amount of foam for the truly bad landings, are the future of the sport. Don't even get me started about indoor climbing on petrolium products and "climbing" gyms.
Mark my words. Thus spake the American Legend, the last Oracle of unfiltered truth channeled directly from the marrow of the human condition. Sort of like the Last Unicorn, without the glitter.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Bvb, I have the best bouldering pad ever. and it doubles as my guest bedroom. You take a big platform, 12 inches by twin bed size, full length velcro full of cut off chunks of other pads. This thing is the sh#t.
I'm taking it to Homestake. That place rocks.
American Legend edit: I ain't Nekking no minutes. WTF? Meh.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Nek Minnit! Get 'er done!
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Can we now get back to the only real climbing = multi pitch climbing?
Bring a pad in case you sketch the first clip.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2013 - 11:38pm PT
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Personally, I pine for the day when this absurd, transient sport "climbing" fad goes away once and for all. It's an embarassment -- the practice of sport "climbing" is the mp3 of the climbing experience. Sport climbing takes the totality of the rich and deeply spiritual mental landscape of the quest and compresses all the life out of it. No bass; shrill, tinny highs; the meat, soul, richness, texture and depth: digitized and plasticized out of existance. Niel Young and I are aghast, and vigorously object. Super-highball bouldering, and smaller, exquisite blocs writ by the hand of God himself arrayed in ambrosian glens of old-growth conifers, rich soft meadows festooned with wildflowers, rainbows arcing across a cloudless sky of indigo blue, and a sane and honorable amount of foam for the truly bad landings, are the future of the sport. Don't even get me started about indoor climbing on petrolium products and "climbing" gyms.
Mark my words. Thus spake the American Legend, the last Oracle of unfiltered truth channeled directly from the marrow of the human condition. Sort of like the Last Unicorn, without the glitter.
Spoken like a tru desert rat!
That shiz iz on FB now. Going viral yo!
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skywalker
climber
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Is this a FAD? Back to the O.P. I can go the rest of my life without tying in. Thats not what climbing is about.
Respectfully
S...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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All good except for "Niel".....editing, man.
You mean it's not "I before E except after C?" See? Do you see?! This is what I'm talking about! I'm sure my language tutors were all wannabe Sp0rt Climbers! Ahhhgh! The decline of Western Civilization, here and now!
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mt10910
climber
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Wearing tights, no shirt, and walking around with a freak mattress attached
to one's back?
Not only is it not a fad, but once the general dating public gets winds of this,
mark my words
you'll see folks walking down Washington street, small town USA, on Friday nights with the same get up, seeking the same attention to action.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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I've seen bvb sport climb... he's right, it sucks!
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sandstone conglomerate
climber
sharon conglomerate central
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Bouldering...it's just not real enough, like that picture above clearly demonstrates.
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locker
Social climber
FukUville
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"Trad bouldering"...
Huh???...
What the fuk is, "Trad Bouldering"???...
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this just in
climber
north fork
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No pad. You know like all the bitd climbers must point out. Haha.
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locker
Social climber
FukUville
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"No pad."...
Pad???...
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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boldering is neither
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Posted this before, but it seems appropriate (by the way, the "boulderer" here is actually a very fine "trad" climber)
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| Messages 1 - 189 of total 189 in this topic |
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