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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 3, 2010 - 01:54am PT
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Will we now get back to the only real climbing = multi pitch climbing?
everything else is just 'practice'?
I think it was Vic Copeland's piece or maybe Mick Ryan who wrote about bouldering being a fad.
Has it come full circle yet? Or objectively speaking is there more dollars spent on bouldering gear and comps than on 'regular' climbing?
Just an evening thought.
what do you think?
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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Will we now get back to the only real climbing = multi pitch climbing?
Pot-stirrer.
Climbing is technical movement over your chosen medium: be it pebbles, large rock formations (free or aid), clip-ups, chalk cliffs, buildings or ice.
Division tears the community.
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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I boulder because I cant find partners to "climb" with.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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It may have left Us....
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deepnet
Boulder climber
CA
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thats like comparing a poem to a novel
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Let me think about that question.
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
Springdale UT
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wow. great picture...that says it all.
Personally I enjoy each manifestation of climbing for what it is and the enjoyment I get out of it. Higher is usually more fun for me, but the gamble of not having ropes adds a different kind of flavor. Eventually I may get far enough to get that same spice run out high on a multi pitch and then the equation will get even more complicated...
Its all fun...my goal is to be very well rounded.
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Anastasia
climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
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So... Climbing a boulder is a fad and climbing a mountain is a sport? But babe, you told me that size didn't matter.
AFS
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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Has the fad of bouldering left us?
Oh I hope so.
Curt
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
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I think the OPe is trolling for a nugget of wisdom from jogill .
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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OK, OK, I have an answer
if it's fun, just do it!
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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are you kidding? no munge you just hang out with the crusty supertopo vets.
The Circuit is building the largest indoor bouldering gym in the country right now in Portland.
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Frogjamm
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Yes, the seventies are right around the corner. Fear not, this brave new world will implode soon enough.
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Hah! No way, in fact the "fad" is now to boulder big walls! Go Honnold!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Its all fun...my goal is to be very well rounded
Well, just wait a while and you, like most of us, will become rounder and rounder.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Who am us anyhow?!? Bouldering is still growing even though it makes my joints ache just thinking about it. LOL
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
SoCal
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No. It's worse than ever. The latest Climbing has an article on bouldering in the Sequoia back country (With Angel Wings right there!). Also, someone recently did a piece on Himalayan high country bouldering.
This is not good. I can barely climb V0.
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
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I'm going to start a munge climbing fad, 51% of the route
must be covered in moss or rapidly decomposing
choss to qualify.
Hope to have the website up later this year.
It's gonna be huge!
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Moof
Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
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I think we have seen a general softening of the 'chic' of climbing. Not long ago it seemed like we had climbing walls as backdrops of sitcoms, Mathew McConaughey falling off sport climbs as a plot device, and so on. Either I'm watching less TV (sadly not true), or climbing has faded out of our national fascination a bit.
Bouldering still has a lot of ethics to overcome, driven largely by the low cost of entry, IMO. A pair of shows and a pad, and your good to go. Little to no mentoring required. Braided trails andflattened foliage results.
Not dead, but thankfully it looks from my meager perspective like the explosive growth of climbing in general has slowed.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2010 - 01:06pm PT
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nice philG! thread stopper in 3 posts. :)
killer response everyone btw.
this one wins a prize!
I'm going to start a munge climbing fad, 51% of the route
must be covered in moss or rapidly decomposing
choss to qualify.
brilliance!
I kid and pot stir in the OP...
However, I've always thought bouldering was the most democratic form of technical climbing, essentially scrambling or what John Gill calls 'option soloing'
Yet, I find myself bouldering less and less, tho no less inspired by folks sending the shiz and was partly curious as to whether we just hang with the crusties or whether bouldering numbers have dropped?
given the number of young kick ass folks sending at planet granie on a tuesday night or thursday in the winter, the answer is a resounding ' fuk no, it's still going strong and more so than ever'
the barrier to entry is low, and as said above, the ethics and adoption of ethics may not be there just yet.
carpet swaths will return!!!
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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The fad will fade
the soul will remain.
you know,
kinda like fanny packs.
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apogee
climber
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That's a great story, wes.
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SeanH
climber
San Mateo, CA
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All climbing is fun.
That said, this trend of hiking out to alpine areas like Mt. Evans and similar RMNP bouldering spots to do 7 heinous crimps on a pebble...kinda weird. Go climb a mountain! To each their own though.
I boulder in the gym for strength/fun, and would probably have a blast in bishop. But I have yet to make the drive all the way out to the east side with a pad in the back of my ride instead of a rope.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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I sure hope the fad of bouldering is over...I'm tired of you clowns greasing up my boulders
Wes-best you've ever posted.
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ec
climber
ca
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The latest Climbing has an article on bouldering in the Sequoia back country (With Angel Wings right there!).
'never had picked-up a climbing rag for years and see this at a friend's house last month. Impressively. the most ridiculous thing I'd ever seen.
Then, while 4-wheeling out of Bald Mountain (near Shaver Lake, CA) after climbing, we see a ToyoTruck coming in with pads in the back...
Whatever...
 ec
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Modern boulderers do some amazing stuff, and the focus on bouldering over the last 15+ years has probably generally advanced climbing standards. (And gyms, and ...) Plus it's a pretty good entry-level drug for other kinds of climbing.
There are concerns in terms of the impacts of boulderers, who seem often to travel in herds. All the usual - trails, trampling, waste. Plus noise, and the presence of "uncouth" groups. All disturbing to land managers and some of the public.
It is sometimes hard to take boulderers seriously, given their group behaviours, the ever-present videocameras and cameras, their uniforms, and the idea that we have to treat it like it's a BFD.
ps Liked Wes' story.
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hooblie
climber
from where the anecdotes roam
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^^^wes goes platinum, hanky please
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2010 - 06:12pm PT
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First boulders are always free Anders!
Nice rambling Wes
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Transporter Room 2
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Good story, Wes.
I didn't even know there was a fad goin' on!
It's ALL just climbing, right? Just a flava you fancy.
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Swimming in LEB tears.
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This thread makes me SO ANGRY
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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If you would have told me ten years ago that I would end mostly a boulderer, I would have laughed at you.
Now, with kid and job, it's pretty much the only climbing I do. You know what, it's not that bad.
I'll never be just a boulderer, but it has all the good elements of climbing but compacted into a short distance.
As for popularity, I can't speak for other areas, but Bishop seems to be getting more popular with boulderers rather than less.
They are catching on that the season is longer than advertised.
The new guide book may play a role too.
In short, if it's a fad- I don't see it. It's popular because it's good.
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Transporter Room 2
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I have a nice beanie now, too.
Score! ;-)
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10b4me
Ice climber
Happy Boulders
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at my age, bouldering is about the only thing I can do
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AllezAllez510
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Lambone says:
"are you kidding? no munge you just hang out with the crusty supertopo vets.
The Circuit is building the largest indoor bouldering gym in the country right now in Portland. "
Because there's so much bouldering in Portland right?
Plenty of decent roped climbing in town, but PDX is a bouldering black hole...except for Carver which basically has five decent problems all of which i've done a million times.
I used to go to the circuit's original location and can tell you it was gumby central. On most nights I'd say easily 75% of the clientele had never climbed outside...and they're pulling down hard.
Having said that...the place had good route setting and was a pretty good place to train...except for the music which was usually godawful Euro house crap.
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Fanny pack bump.
Thanks for the story Wes.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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i have never seen so many climbers, period.
between the gyms and the crags,
i mean there has never been so many boulder freaks at crsp, and i have been going there since 1971.
there used to be no parking lot, you could drive all the way up to the out house.
now the only car you see up there is the meat wagon.
i talk to the rock the whole time i am climbing,
kind of like mark fydrich, the pitcher, anybody remember him?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rm_jU0b5Hgw
so everybody thinks i'm a freak to be avoided, hey man,
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Also, someone recently did a piece on Himalayan high country bouldering.
Oscar Eckenstein conducted a bouldering competition for natives in a village in the Kashmirs in 1892. He gave prizes of one rupee for each "winner", and commented the best there were far superior to any Swiss guide he had known. He might have mixed feelings about the beanies these days, however . . .
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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I'm not really "old school", started climbing in 1995. Went to the buttermilks a fair bit back then, and usually saw only one other car (if any). Then didn't go back again until 2002. A dozen cars plus. These days, we all know the scene. I met Mick Ryan when I was down there, just as the craze was underway. Nice guy, invited me to his house. Boy, did he find the right place at the right time.
As long as climbing stays popular, bouldering will be at the forefront in my opinion. Back when I started climbing, it wasn't an end in itself so much as it was just good training for power / extreme movements to help you with routes.
"Cruxes, cruxes, cruxes" said Ron Kauk on the subject. You do enough bouldering and you'll end up doing pretty much every hard move you could ever enncounter on a route, That'show I used to look at it, prior to joining the rest of the pad people.
Even Ben Moon doesn't climb routes anymore, according to a recent interview. He said he packed away sport climbing almost a decade ago.
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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My kids climb harder than most of you old crusty farts.
This is the future, you are the past.
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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My kids climb harder than most of you old crusty farts.
I doubt it. Nice pics, though.
Curt
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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You're exempt of course.
Thanks.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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I started out bouldering and did it for years before I started leading and doing multi-pitch, so in reality my climbing is just an extension of my bouldering foundation. And then you get to aid and throw everything out the window.
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Reeotch
Trad climber
Kayenta, AZ
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I've always regarded "climbers", who say they don't boulder, with suspicion . . .
Actually they're just a bunch of whiners . . .
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Tahoe climber
climber
Davis these days
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Has the fad of eating pasta left us yet?
Because we would rather get back to eating just steak for every meal.
TC
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Ill second your sentiments about boomboxes.
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Gregg Olson
Boulder climber
Moorpark, Ca
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I have heard it said more then a few times that the hardest single moves in rock climbing have always been done and always will be done on the boulders. Bouldering is also (among real climbers) regarded as the purest form of rock climbing. Also... Im pretty sure toping out on a highball with a bad landing gets a "real climbing " rating !! Having done many very committing multi pitch climbs myself and bouldered many committing highballs, I can tell you there is no difference in the reward, emotion, and rush between the two. Maybe you just need to step up your bouldering choices Mungeclimber !!
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Tahoe climber
climber
Davis these days
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Didn't Royal Robbins himself start out as a boulderer?
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Spider Savage - Really great pics! I recognize the buttermilks of course, and I think Joe's Valley. What other spots are shown?
And, I defy anyone here sniffing their nose at bouldering as not being "real climbing" to try some of today's new wave highballs. Not even the ones in the extreme levels of difficulty department. Once you get past the 15 foot mark, you're into the same level of commitment as a lot of spicey roped routes.
Have a look at this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HSsdFlotCrA
Watch till the end. Forget that it's a V10 problem. Even if it was V1, I'd bet the farm very few of the "bouldering is a fad" climbers wouldn't sh#t themselves, no matter how many pads you have beneath you. I'm sure I would.
Past that, I know a lot of people who solely boulder, and not very many of them talk sh#t about guys who want to rope up and stroll around on 5.9 all day. I wonder why that is.
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WBraun
climber
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LOL Joe
yer killin me man ....
hahaha ......
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Yea, Im with jghedge also...
Bouldering is a great way to spend an hour or two after work or with the kids, but by no means is it as dangerous as falling off a cliff in the back country.
Too bad I don't get more opportunities to fall off sh#t in the back country.
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Give it a rest. I've done tons of long, hard commiting routes and highball bouldering. Stop being a hater. Watch the video of Lisa Rands doing a 30+ foot V10 with the crux near the top. You think you have the stones to try it? Even with a stack of pads? No, you don't.
And I said "a lot of spicey roped routes". Not "all". But of course you purposely tried to make it sound like I was. Because otherwise you'd have no possibility of retort. Reading comprehension, it's a good thing. Stop letting your insecurity cloud your understanding. Right, off you go.
"Once you get past the 15 foot mark, you're into the same level of commitment as a lot of spicey roped routes."
With a stack of pads below you? No. That's a ridiculous statement.
Plus, you get hurt 5 pitches up and it's a much bigger deal than if you're on the ground.
And you wonder why people talk sh#t... "
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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"Didn't Royal Robbins himself start out as a boulderer?"
Pretty much all the cutting edge roped climbers used bouldering as an integral part of training. John Long, Bachar, Kauk. It allows you to work your skill on the hardest moves in a relatively safe environment, so that when you do encounter some tough business in a spicey situation, you'll have that much more confidence. I'll take their word over those of some hater who wants to pretend like bouldering is an affront to "real" climbing. What a joke.
Like I said before, I rarely have ever heard anyone who only boulders talk sh#t about climbing on a rope. They simply don't care what other people do. But the reverse doesn't seem to be true. Rope only climbers seem to be very concerned that everyone know they are "real" climbers because they get a few pitches off the ground and place their own gear.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Didn't John sometimes call his soloing "bouldering in the sky"? As the essence of bouldering is no rope and (likely) considerable difficulty relative to the climber's abilities, an accurate summary.
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Weld-it just got quoted on Facebook.
But my "supa ghey" pads have saved my body from some hard landings for sure, So I think supa ghey is alright with me.
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R.B.
Big Wall climber
Land on the Lahar
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Bouldering leads to sport climbing as free soloing leads to trad cliff climbing as rad trad lead climbing leads to big wall climbing as Lycra leads to being a padder ....
It's all climbing lads, it's all about the style you use to combat the gravity, since that is the one thing that's in common to it all. Seems like it's not as easy to pull the rads anymore, could it be that extra coupla pounds on the frame, eh?
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Paco
Trad climber
Montana
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Recently spent several days in squamish...bouldering is VERY much alive.
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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You are at the bottom of the slander chain, as it were - sport climbers get to slander boulderers, trad climbers get to slander sport climbers, and alpine climbers get to slander...well, pretty much everyone. Don't like it? Tough.
I hope you're still merely a good troll and not starting to believe your own BS.
Curt
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Mick Ryan
Trad climber
The Peaks
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Mick Ryan is a fad.
Mick Ryan
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Mick Ryan
Trad climber
The Peaks
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In answer to your question Munge.
No way is bouldering a fad. People bin a-bouldering for centuries. Pre-dates that multi-pitch stuff.
Proper climbing, un-proper climbing....s'all climbing, s'all fun.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2010 - 08:37pm PT
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Just remember, fashion is circular. You will come back around Mick. heh
s'all good, but don't stop climbing related threads ya'll.
great pics Chinny Chin Chin
Don't have any of my own, but I dig Salad's kid as a toddler bustin out all pirate stylee!!
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Shattered my ankle trying to do highball in '85. Now I don't highball.
That was before pads. However, same result if you miss the pad.
Interesting datum for boulderers: A 150 lb weight falling 10 ft generates 2,000 lbs of force. (don't recall the source)
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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I'll vouch for chinchen's kids.
By the way, I'm back around but my cell phone went with the old job.
I'm thinking BBQ this weekend, maybe a quick trip to the happies.
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Sounds fun Tom! Give me a shout.
Thanks for the props Munge.
I gave up bouldering tonight when I went to the Buttermilks to find two euro twits cooking spaghetti under the birthday boulder warmup prow....
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Transporter Room 2
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I, too, am diggin' the tiny pirate.
Workin' the startin' moves, he is.
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Yea pretty damn cute! That chalk bag is almost as big as he is!
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Branscomb
Trad climber
Lander, WY
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I hope so, then I can have it all to myself! Ha!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2010 - 01:24pm PT
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"she" is. That's baby T.
Baby S came later.
Salad, post up the S boy firing.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 10, 2010 - 12:38pm PT
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Eveyone's doin' it.
Even guys who can't match their shoes....
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Sep 10, 2010 - 12:59pm PT
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kind of like mark fydrich, the pitcher, anybody remember him?
Yeah, I saw him pitch in Evansville.
I hope bouldering doesn't fade away. My newest strategy at Josh is to get a kid boulderer to put the first piece in for me.
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Sep 10, 2010 - 01:08pm PT
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These two don't think that it's a "fad"...
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
CA
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Sep 10, 2010 - 02:08pm PT
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I spent 800 days in the sierra by my 20th birthday,
started climbing when i was 12.
When I opened Art of Climbing at 33 in Chatsworth near many boulding devotees holy grail, stoney point,i had only been there three times before.
ok i care about the place, lobbied for and got a night time parking restriction which greatly reduced graffitti and broken glass...
but...
I always wanted to print a T-Shirt
only just a little tongue in cheek.....
If it isn't three pitches high,
it isn't worth doing
maybe that's why i never got any good!
i hated to boulder.
and detested the rich lake beta fest mentality of
"that goes like this" blah blah...
actually, i never really wanted to do any route more than once.
I always associated climbing, and enjoyed the process,
of having to think.
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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Sep 10, 2010 - 02:22pm PT
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Bouldering is the most real, but only if you can answer the question "what is "real"?" !?
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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Sep 10, 2010 - 02:25pm PT
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You're a fad :)
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SharpSpoons
Boulder climber
SD,CA
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Sep 10, 2010 - 02:42pm PT
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It may be because I'm a newbie, but doesn't hating on bouldering seem a little elitist to anyone? I mean it is the cheapest and best intro to climbing isn't it? Thats like, at least to me, big wave surfers hating on a guy from Nebraska who is just learning how to surf, or a grom learning how to drop in properly.
I understand disliking those who ruin the experience by leaving a mess or being obnoxious, but I find it incredibly odd that NONE of the Trad climbers or the Alpine climbers have never run into their own ilk being just as rude and obnoxious.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
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Sep 10, 2010 - 03:01pm PT
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Did anybody like THRUTCH? I was thinking about downloading it.
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Tfish
Sport climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Sep 10, 2010 - 04:54pm PT
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Its a progression of things. You start off bouldering then TR, then sport, then trad, then aid, then Big wall. Boulderers aren't as evolved...it's just science.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Sep 10, 2010 - 08:05pm PT
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Two words.....JOHN GILL. The man is a wonder and thank god he took it serious! He got me pumped on bouldering and I still find it a meditation on rock, kinesthetic flow the marvel of moving on stone!
Peace
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Sep 10, 2010 - 10:22pm PT
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^^^
the haulbag is a nice touch.
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Sep 11, 2010 - 12:16am PT
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My contribution. On Strength in Numbers at The Sad (I think) boulders. Bishop, 2002.
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Sep 11, 2010 - 12:24am PT
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That's what I was talking about previously. I've spent tons of time both boudering and racked up with gear.
The crowds at many of the bouldering sessions I've been a part of over the years have sometimes been huge. Yet, in all that time I almost never hear boulderers bagging on people who choose instead to climb 5.6 on a rope. Yet the reverse is not the case, as you have noticed.
Seems like people who are way into bouldering are simply having too good a time to care what other people are doing.
Bouldering as training for getting better at roped climbing is essential, IMO. Some people of course do it as an end in itself, and it is easy to see why. Besides the lack of expense and (for the most part) risk, it simply is the purest form of climbing.
"It may be because I'm a newbie, but doesn't hating on bouldering seem a little elitist to anyone? I mean it is the cheapest and best intro to climbing isn't it? Thats like, at least to me, big wave surfers hating on a guy from Nebraska who is just learning how to surf, or a grom learning how to drop in properly.
I understand disliking those who ruin the experience by leaving a mess or being obnoxious, but I find it incredibly odd that NONE of the Trad climbers or the Alpine climbers have never run into their own ilk being just as rude and obnoxious."
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 11, 2010 - 02:01am PT
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real bouldering...
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Sep 11, 2010 - 02:13am PT
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What are you doing? Laddering?
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2 l l
Sport climber
Rancho Verga, CA
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Sep 11, 2010 - 04:34am PT
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Hey smellz ,
Nice outside edge.
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Sep 11, 2010 - 09:31am PT
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"real bouldering..."
Is the Le Conte?
That's where I taught myself basic aiding and jugging. Me and my even less experienced parter needed something to do while we waited out a grey, drizzly day. So equipped with a copy of "freedom of the hills" and some borrowed gear, we spent the afternoon futzing around. Good times.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 11, 2010 - 01:31pm PT
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bjj: The crowds at many of the bouldering sessions I've been a part of over the years have sometimes been huge. The crowds, and associated behaviours, are things which deter me from modern bouldering. I like to boulder, and climb, quietly.
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426
climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Sep 11, 2010 - 03:58pm PT
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maybe that's why i never got any good!
i hated to boulder.
and detested the rich lake beta fest mentality of
"that goes like this" blah blah...
actually, i never really wanted to do any route more than once.
I always associated climbing, and enjoyed the process,
of having to think.
I'd say this is really truthful and accurate...if you can't do "hard" moves just off the ground, no way you're doing them "on high".
I boulder with a bunch of kids that send hard stuff (to me anyhoo) and would argue that bouldering is dammed cerebral...
Nobody can spray beta @ me though, too tall and climb with my own suck style...in MacLeod's book he definitely favors bouldering as one of the best ways to improve your climbing...young or old, fat or skinny...
R U 1 in 10?
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Gregg Olson
Boulder climber
Moorpark, Ca
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Sep 11, 2010 - 04:33pm PT
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The picture of Munge aiding up a boulder pretty much says it all !! No wonder he started this post and does not understand bouldering ... Do you think that is a more "real" form of climbing then bouldering ? LOL !!!!
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Gregg Olson
Boulder climber
Moorpark, Ca
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Sep 11, 2010 - 05:38pm PT
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John Gill ????...Did the master leave us ?? His website says 1953 - 2010 ??
Edit : Please see below. He is fine !!
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Gregg Olson
Boulder climber
Moorpark, Ca
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Sep 11, 2010 - 06:45pm PT
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Jeezzz !! Im a bone head... I just went back and that is exactly what it looks like. All that lame bouldering Im doing must be making me a bit slow in the head !!
Thanks,
G-
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Sep 11, 2010 - 06:59pm PT
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Just finished transcribing an interview of John Gill and what an insight, I got to listen and write his words. He IS bouldering and lead many of us from the 60's, 70's and 80's on a pilgrimage to find out what bouldering is about to each individual and for me, he said it true....that it is a meditation, a pure love for movement on the rock, an end in itself.
Thanks John for your influence and motivation for so many years!
Peace
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Gregg Olson
Boulder climber
Moorpark, Ca
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Sep 11, 2010 - 11:43pm PT
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Ron... Is there any way I could see or read what you just did for John ? He is and was a tremendous inspiration to me. I learned the essence of moving over stone from watching him climb. FyI for all you "Real Climbers" out there he climbed 5.10 in the 1950's and 5.12 in the 60's before real climbing shoes were even made and with the grace and style of a zen or Ti Chi master.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Sep 12, 2010 - 01:39am PT
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what was the question again?
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Sep 12, 2010 - 01:42am PT
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the question was,
"has the pad of bouldering left us..."
which is silly, i see pads left and right.
crsp, taser park, woodson, j tree, pads everywhere.
enuff ozone depletion to cause al gore to sh#t his already diahrea pants,
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Sep 12, 2010 - 02:03am PT
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boulderz4lyfe, yo.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Sep 12, 2010 - 02:06am PT
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if we get the chinese to start importing rope,
then the kids will toss the pads and rack up.
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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Sep 12, 2010 - 02:16am PT
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More specifically to Ron Gomez's link, I give you the following, lest one think it is a "fad" :
Where and when did documented bouldering start? Some think it began with Chris Sharma in the early 1990s. Others believe it started with me in the 1950s. Still others think that Pierre Allain and his 'Bleausards initiated the sport in the 1930s. In fact, climbers were scrambling about on boulders in Fontainebleau as early as 1874. Does scrambling and easy climbing on boulders constitute bouldering? If so, then the 'Bleau climbers may have been the first to document an appreciation of the sport.
And the more specific link:
http://www128.pair.com/r3d4k7/Bouldering_History1.0.html
Good to see you back, OG Crusher BVB
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Sep 12, 2010 - 10:13am PT
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Gregg I will have to secure permission from the owners of the content...it's an ongoing project that I was fortunate enough to get John's interview to transcribe. It is not my material and when the project is done it WILL be worth buying a copy of it. Some priceless stuff in this and many other interviews...historical to say the least, priceless if yer a climber!
Peace
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OfBlinkingThings
Boulder climber
Jacksonville, Fl
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Sep 12, 2010 - 12:10pm PT
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I just finished reading stone crusade again.
Bouldering a fad?
I don't think so.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Sep 12, 2010 - 12:18pm PT
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hahahaha,
munge is gonna have to invest in a big ass live well.
hey ron-- i met up with alex and oakley on friday. they sure are putting a lot of effort into that film. and good on you for sticking through one of the transcription sessions-- most folks don't understand how much difficult labor it is.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 12, 2010 - 01:17pm PT
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does not understand bouldering
yup, I dun't understand the boulderz Gregg O. :)
I only climb the easy ones... and I have the wrong pants...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 12, 2010 - 01:19pm PT
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Sprock, you may be onto a correct interpretation...
has the pad of bouldering left us, as in have we gone back to swaths of carpet again? all dangerz and shit!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 12, 2010 - 01:21pm PT
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ah, maybe this is the future?!?!?!
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Sep 12, 2010 - 01:25pm PT
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Hey Kerwin good to hear from you! Thanks a bunch for meeting with them, seems like a cool project, glad to help out where I can. Jeeezus no doubt that is a labor intensive thing to transcribe, but this is the sort of thing that NEEDS to get done for those in the future to read and for the preservation of the words and knowledge of those that have come before us. What I got out of doing this is WAY bigger than the work I put into it!
Peace
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Gregg Olson
Boulder climber
Moorpark, Ca
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Sep 12, 2010 - 04:48pm PT
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Munge... Its not the pants holding you back, its the shoes and the hair !! Is that a mullet ? I think I still have some of those pants around... along with my red and white striped lycra tights and green ninjas !!
But more importantly, WHERE IS THAT BOULDER LOCATED ?? What an awesome piece of rock. My hands are sweating and Im drooling now !!
P.S. Hay Munge... Please don't put a bolt ladder on it !!
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Sep 12, 2010 - 07:08pm PT
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Gregg, try hunting in TM, over by Pywiak, in the creek drainage.
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AWhit
Trad climber
Bozeman, MT
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Sep 12, 2010 - 11:29pm PT
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may the fad of keyboard climbers leave us soon as well.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 13, 2010 - 06:39pm PT
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Awhit, no doubt. friggin bunch of wankers those wanna be internetzers.
:)
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
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Sep 13, 2010 - 07:08pm PT
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I challenge Munge to a sitstart standoff of at least 3 moves in a row.
Slabs are out of bounds.
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Oxymoron
Big Wall climber
total Disarray
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Sep 13, 2010 - 07:10pm PT
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Bouldering is good stuff. It'll be around as long as climbing itself is.
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hooblie
climber
from where the anecdotes roam
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Sep 13, 2010 - 07:59pm PT
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the future of bouldering is unlimited
gonna be totally sick. highball comin!
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Sep 13, 2010 - 10:07pm PT
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nice munge.
131 and climbing.
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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Sep 14, 2010 - 08:46pm PT
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the flying saucer - rad!
nice pic Munge.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 15, 2010 - 07:54pm PT
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K, I'm trying, but it's a tough battle.
goat! That's not a fair contest. "Slabs are out of bounds."
It ain't real bouldering til yer dragging yer left side up a slabby sit start!!!
:)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 15, 2010 - 07:55pm PT
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This is the future!
you all know what size that is!
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scuffy b
climber
Eastern Salinia
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Sep 16, 2010 - 05:16pm PT
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How tall? 4 ft?
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OfBlinkingThings
Boulder climber
Jacksonville, Fl
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Sep 16, 2010 - 05:35pm PT
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Anything taller than 4 ft and we have to rehearse the moves on top-rope, right?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 16, 2010 - 06:31pm PT
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rehearsal is mandatory
Scuff, with the cut away base, hands get inserted just below half height.
It's ready for you! 8 mile approach.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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Sep 16, 2010 - 08:25pm PT
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Never thought of bouldering as a fad. John Gill certainly set a standard of climbing that captivated the likes of many including John Bachar and John Long. Recently tried bouldering and if it is a "Fad" it's here to stay.
Climbing rock is just that. There's all kinds. Like people and races. None is really better than the rest. Joy and Peace, Lynne
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 16, 2010 - 08:31pm PT
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Even if it looks eerily like an Offwidth Headstone...
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Sep 16, 2010 - 09:37pm PT
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New school OW bouldering, anyone?
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Jan 23, 2011 - 03:54am PT
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"Climbing is technical movement over your chosen medium." ~ MisterE
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DanaB
climber
Philadelphia
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Jan 23, 2011 - 12:27pm PT
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Maybe fads are just a fad?
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gonamok
climber
aging malcontent
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Jan 24, 2011 - 02:04am PT
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Boulders have been victimized by this "bouldering" craze for far too long. Instead of being productive members of society, these kooks spend their days wearing funny shoes and lugging small mattresses around, to feed their need to put chalk on innocent rocks, unmindful that they may be ruining my wilderness experience. The sooner this fad peters out, the better if you ask me.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2011 - 02:08am PT
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LOL!!!
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Jan 24, 2011 - 11:07am PT
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Every time I'm done bouldering, the fad is over. Then it starts up again the next time I go bouldering. It's all climbing, it's all a "fad", and it's all dangerous. I went slab climbing yesterday, now that's a scary fad. You slabmasters are sick in the head. A good thing though.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Apr 15, 2011 - 06:06pm PT
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The little ballerina shoes, the pad for your naptime, sets of brushes and blowtubes, tape and manicure implements.
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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The bouldering near bald mountain sucks, what a joke even going there, although it is a nice drinking spot
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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No recent climbing (unless tollhouse traverse counts, but I'm riding my bike alot and losing my belly, if I can get down to about 123 maybe I can keep up with Kenny!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2013 - 04:47pm PT
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dab on the sessel boulder. heh
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Snowmassguy
Trad climber
Calirado
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I dont think pads even existed ( or were not mainstream anyway) when I started bouldering. Love bouldering but have always felt like a tool carrying a big ass pad around. Bouldering is cool none the less. Nothing like a good session to clear the head after a long day . Add in a nice run to boulder and you got yourself a fun little workout. Im bringin' bouldering back.
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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i have done that boulder problem at bald mt. that area has some fun bouldering there.
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Are you sure, most the bouldering I've seen in the area looks alot like the choss pile in the picture. Rattlesnake Rock is much better than Bald Mountain too bad it got closed.
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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no, it has not left us. it's improved. the latest addition is to bring a hammer and chisel with you. after all.... they're not just for 'heading any more....
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gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
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LEFT US??? I don't know about you hosers...but I'm just getting started!
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prickle
Gym climber
globe,az
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i'm too lazy to bother with routes anymore.too much work
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Lurking Fear
Boulder climber
Bishop, California
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I think we're fooling ourselves if we think it's a fad. It's just too easy to hang out at the boulders. No one even cares if you climb, and you always have a nice seat. I'm seeing a new trend where large groups from gyms come out in force to an area. I also see a lot of bottles of beer at the boulders. From some climber's perspective it's the perfect type of climbing. From a Bishop perspective things have not improved since I've been here. I don't mind the crowds, but it's still easy to get away from the crowds when you want to. Bald Mountain is definitely choss and you still have the crowds.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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They're making routes where every single hold is manufactured, and people are claiming that chipping is ok now. The gym climbers are overpopulating and bringing the gym with them everywhere they go. Instead of learning from experienced climbers they learn how to do a double gaston off a finger pocket but don't know how to make an anchor. Luckily they tend to stay off the real routes.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Or, if they have to hike.
How about making a rollup sheet of material with holds on it that you just drape over a blank boulder. Maybe even a blow-dryer (solar-powered of course) could shrinkwrap the material onto the blank boulder. When you leave, you cut the wrap off and go home and attach a corset drawstring to the sheet so you can reattach the next time without the blowdryer.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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I started bouldering pretty much the same month I first took acid -- 40 years ago this October. Clearly, bouldering is a corrupter of youth, and cut severely into time I could have spent Ice Climbing or Walling or otherwise bettering myself. Let the fad fade, for the sake of the children.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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I just read a paper that found that excessive bouldering prolongs bed-wetting.
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SeaClimb
climber
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No fad...the youth love it.
Right now, ABS nationals are happening. This is a sport not likely to die out.
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James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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When there are boulder problems like these- would you want to stop?
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Bouldering is fun. It will always be so.
5.2~5.12, anyone? Only climberfolk go there.
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Michelle
Social climber
Toshi's Station, picking up power converters.
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Cosumness!
Yay!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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This is a funny page.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Personally, I pine for the day when this absurd, transient sport "climbing" fad goes away once and for all. It's an embarassment -- the practice of sport "climbing" is the mp3 of the climbing experience. Sport climbing takes the totality of the rich and deeply spiritual mental landscape of the quest and compresses all the life out of it. No bass; shrill, tinny highs; the meat, soul, richness, texture and depth: digitized and plasticized out of existance. Niel Young and I are aghast, and vigorously object. Super-highball bouldering, and smaller, exquisite blocs writ by the hand of God himself arrayed in ambrosian glens of old-growth conifers, rich soft meadows festooned with wildflowers, rainbows arcing across a cloudless sky of indigo blue, and a sane and honorable amount of foam for the truly bad landings, are the future of the sport. Don't even get me started about indoor climbing on petrolium products and "climbing" gyms.
Mark my words. Thus spake the American Legend, the last Oracle of unfiltered truth channeled directly from the marrow of the human condition. Sort of like the Last Unicorn, without the glitter.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Bvb, I have the best bouldering pad ever. and it doubles as my guest bedroom. You take a big platform, 12 inches by twin bed size, full length velcro full of cut off chunks of other pads. This thing is the sh#t.
I'm taking it to Homestake. That place rocks.
American Legend edit: I ain't Nekking no minutes. WTF? Meh.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Nek Minnit! Get 'er done!
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Can we now get back to the only real climbing = multi pitch climbing?
Bring a pad in case you sketch the first clip.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2013 - 02:38am PT
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Personally, I pine for the day when this absurd, transient sport "climbing" fad goes away once and for all. It's an embarassment -- the practice of sport "climbing" is the mp3 of the climbing experience. Sport climbing takes the totality of the rich and deeply spiritual mental landscape of the quest and compresses all the life out of it. No bass; shrill, tinny highs; the meat, soul, richness, texture and depth: digitized and plasticized out of existance. Niel Young and I are aghast, and vigorously object. Super-highball bouldering, and smaller, exquisite blocs writ by the hand of God himself arrayed in ambrosian glens of old-growth conifers, rich soft meadows festooned with wildflowers, rainbows arcing across a cloudless sky of indigo blue, and a sane and honorable amount of foam for the truly bad landings, are the future of the sport. Don't even get me started about indoor climbing on petrolium products and "climbing" gyms.
Mark my words. Thus spake the American Legend, the last Oracle of unfiltered truth channeled directly from the marrow of the human condition. Sort of like the Last Unicorn, without the glitter.
Spoken like a tru desert rat!
That shiz iz on FB now. Going viral yo!
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skywalker
climber
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Is this a FAD? Back to the O.P. I can go the rest of my life without tying in. Thats not what climbing is about.
Respectfully
S...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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All good except for "Niel".....editing, man.
You mean it's not "I before E except after C?" See? Do you see?! This is what I'm talking about! I'm sure my language tutors were all wannabe Sp0rt Climbers! Ahhhgh! The decline of Western Civilization, here and now!
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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I've seen bvb sport climb... he's right, it sucks!
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sandstone conglomerate
climber
sharon conglomerate central
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Bouldering...it's just not real enough, like that picture above clearly demonstrates.
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this just in
climber
north fork
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No pad. You know like all the bitd climbers must point out. Haha.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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boldering is neither
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Posted this before, but it seems appropriate (by the way, the "boulderer" here is actually a very fine "trad" climber)
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Feb 26, 2015 - 08:44pm PT
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Feb 26, 2015 - 10:04pm PT
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"I think the 'friction of styles' is a manufactured fart cloud perpetrated mostly by OUR generation."
I'm with Dingus on this one and think it's a good thing!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Feb 26, 2015 - 10:11pm PT
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Nobody boulders anymore.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2015 - 10:36pm PT
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Roger that Biotch!
Funny thread rereading that.
"I'm going to start a munge climbing fad, 51% of the route
must be covered in moss or rapidly decomposing
choss to qualify.
Hope to have the website up later this year.
It's gonna be huge!"
Goatboy, post up the URL!
Or if you're ready to buy...
http://www.californiabouldering.com/
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Feb 27, 2015 - 08:17am PT
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Fit young women walking around with mattresses strapped to their backs...what's not to like?
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Feb 27, 2015 - 10:05am PT
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the fad of bouldering has left us...with boulderers..
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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Feb 27, 2015 - 10:10am PT
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Bouldering will outlive the fad. Maybe even the pad . . .
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Feb 27, 2015 - 10:12am PT
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Fad? You can't be serious!
(From www.johngillnet.com)
I've been climbing since 1957. I started bouldering with the good Professor Gill in the early sixties. Camp 4 bouldering was also in full swing by then. Gill's site has bouldering references going back to the Victorian era, and it is clear that bouldering was a full-blown activity in Fontainbleau by the 1920's. There's nothing new about bouldering as an activity.
Of course, bouldering has gotten a lot more popular. It has enjoyed the same kinds of training, technique, and equipment innovations that have made all climbing easier and safer. (For example, a glance at the picture above shows that there have been substantial improvements in spotting technique.) Just as with other styles of climbing---and indeed with athletic pursuits in general---bouldering has responded with developments in difficulty that eclipse the achievements of the pioneers.
So it is a fad of a century-and-a-half's duration, and no, it isn't going away.
A more interesting question: when will that fart cloud leave us?
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Feb 27, 2015 - 12:06pm PT
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Left us? Heck, I want it to rev up even more!
More people bouldering=fewer people on the tall stuff. That's okay with me.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Feb 27, 2015 - 01:48pm PT
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Closest to my house, A perfect bike ride Starting with a mile long down hill then another mile more that is split by ups and downs.
This, a bit farther away an example of small rock hell. If you believe like some, rocks have souls, then think what it must have been like as a rock to have sat Here
show some go yo, lets see some of the best sit in parking lot and down dirty roads.
favorite 'Pebble' or 'small stone,' on the side of a vista'
or to an ironic location Hell, any thing small.
This sits 600feet up left of a car wash by a very busy highwat full of grocery stores and car dealer ships, Think Dunkin Donut, and Jiffy Lube .
$%five years before it was the case and the indians had march by,befor white man.
Now though, I kid you not, it stares at a Kentucky Fried Chicken. ( no Picture)
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Apr 18, 2015 - 11:20pm PT
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Got gear?
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Apr 19, 2015 - 05:21am PT
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So a few years back there were two Germans and a Swiss that hung out in my climbing gym and bouldered here for a couple of weeks while on a South American bouldering trip. These guys were probably strongest non-Argentines to visit so far and the only visiting foreigners (to my knowledge) to "put up" (ha ha) a relatively hard new problem (that had been a bit of a project for us). Anyways they spent a couple of weeks at Tuzgle afterwords and later told me Balcarce ruled over Tuzgle. Just saying.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Apr 19, 2015 - 05:36am PT
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Yanqui,
I am almost certain that the videos' focus was on that GOYL, If you get a chance check out
Her trad climbing,
The production value of these folks work, the music too, is what I like, and see as the top of
The heap of climbing videos.
The better climbing area is always the locals only spot, it is a paradox.
The best climbing is the best kept secret.
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Apr 19, 2015 - 05:47am PT
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Nina is a hottie, for sure, and an ace-number-one hard woman to boot. I already watched that video about her free climbing that scary 5.14a multi-pitch in Switzerland and the butterflies fluttered around in my midsection. However, now that I've reached a mature age I realize the only way to preserve the resource here is to get people interested in using it.
Cheers, Gnome!
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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa
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Apr 19, 2015 - 12:28pm PT
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Climbing is technical movement over your chosen medium: be it pebbles, large rock formations (free or aid), clip-ups, chalk cliffs, buildings or ice.
I forget who said it.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Apr 19, 2015 - 03:57pm PT
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When did we start bringing ladders to the boulders?
Also- how long does a ladder have to be left out before I can take it home?
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 12, 2016 - 09:39pm PT
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Has the fad of bouldering left us?
No.
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Where Safety trumps Leaving No Trace
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Jan 13, 2016 - 05:02am PT
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Has the fad of bouldering left us?
For me yes, as falling on rope doesn't depend on would be spotters and not missing the crash pads when I am doing something difficult. Roped climbing/leading on the other hand with bolts and one good belayer keeps me from hitting the deck most of the time.
It seems Jaybro had some gear hit him in the nose?
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Jan 13, 2016 - 08:38pm PT
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Old gymnasts and old boulderers are lucky if they do not end up with damaged spines. Pads or no pads. I made it up through age 78 as a gymnast-type athlete before being permanently sidelined. Top-roping would have delayed or eliminated this condition. The future will tell the tail . . .
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Where Safety trumps Leaving No Trace
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Jan 14, 2016 - 05:06am PT
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jgill,
Wisdom doesn't trickle down like money. If we live long enough we will have the data on what type of injury is of the mode set. Are spine injuries the most likely?
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 14, 2016 - 09:33am PT
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With the way that the average boulderer perenially attempts poorly thought-out and inappropriate "training programs", I think a lot of folks' fingers (pulleys) will be unusable long before their spines wear out.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Jan 15, 2016 - 12:01am PT
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I made it up through age 78 as a gymnast-type athlete before being permanently sidelined.
John, I'm so sorry to hear this. Does this mean you've had to stop doing the body-weight routines you enjoyed?
Some athletes just keep going and going, but I think many more discover that they have sold short aspects of their future health, and when the option calls come in, it turns out that there is a significant price to be paid for the accomplishments of youth.
Youth and the things that drive us being what they are, I also think very few would back off in consideration of a more mobile old age. We drive the old car till it breaks, and then just live with the jalopy for whatever time remains.
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Jan 15, 2016 - 08:36pm PT
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If I had been told at the age of thirty that forty eight years into the future I would suffer this condition I would have shrugged it off and forgotten about it. I have no regrets. It was worth the ride.
I have been strongly advised to never try any of the bodyweight exercises I was doing before October 25th of last year, including pull-ups, balancing up the boulder fields, and hiking up steep hills. This has taken a while to assimilate, for it means virtually no aerobic or strength exercises - at least anywhere similar to what I had been doing. Walking at a modest pace seems to be good for the condition. Six plus hours of spinal reconstructive surgery is a last resort if the pain gets too bad.
Sitting here I feel fine, as I do most of the time if I am careful.
But I would hope for a day in the future when improved technology and/or ethical attitude would encourage bouldering without the big jumps. Pads may not be the answer, for gymnasts have used them forever.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Jan 15, 2016 - 09:58pm PT
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Well good luck old friend, and stay away from those docs if you can.
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Ryan Tetz
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Jan 16, 2016 - 07:32am PT
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Agree also at 31. I've really messed up my back with injuries from youngster ski crashes, an ice climbing pillar collapse, and most recently competing in ultra distance cycling bringing on some significant neck/torso stiffness bouts to balance. I wouldn't want to take back the experiences though. I don't expect to easily arrive at 80 either. Good to hear John Gill's perspective. Reality is humbling. Keep on
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 16, 2016 - 07:54am PT
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Back when, bouldering just...was.
Then, maybe, it was...a fad.
And now, bouldering just...is.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 16, 2016 - 08:02am PT
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I'm saying we're past the fad part.
Chill randizzle.
Edit:
I would contend that trad climbing is more of a fad now than bouldering.
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Jan 16, 2016 - 08:13am PT
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Slightly off topic .... I was talking to a young guy in the gym yesterday (Denver Bouldering Club), which I go a couple times a week during my lunch break and it blew me away that he had been "bouldering" for a few years now and wondered what were his favorite areas... He kinda looked at me weird and then proceeded to tell me that he likes The Spot and DBC central the most.... He has never climbed outside!
So maybe the new fad is exclusively bouldering indoors!
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Where Safety trumps Leaving No Trace
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Jan 16, 2016 - 11:18am PT
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Bouldering is why we'll have socialized medicine? We have to care of the youth.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Jan 16, 2016 - 11:37am PT
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Bouldering ---> Medicare
Be glad it's there!
E.g., emergency room charges = $6,464
My contribution = $11.04
;>)
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jan 16, 2016 - 11:44am PT
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John, please join the favorite bouldering thread. Would love to hear some of your favorites or some great stories. You are a god to us pebble wrastlers.
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Jan 16, 2016 - 01:10pm PT
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I did my share when I was younger and loved it. Most weeks it was the only climbing I got to do. Fortunately, I didn't do a lot of jumping off. This was in the days before pads, too, so coming off up high had especially dire consequences. I usually kept to climbs that I could handle, only tackling hard things that were very close to the ground or on top rope. The routine big leaps kidz are takin' these days? Ugh! I do know a couple of old climbers who suffered a lot from bouldering falls--feet and ankles. I have always been too chicken and too low talent to play the true highball game. These days, hiking towards mid 50's, I have no interest in the back/knee/ankle problems that can come from jumping/fall off big boulders. Just not worth it.
Climb on!
BAd
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Jan 19, 2016 - 01:46pm PT
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Bouldering is probably going to be as big as roped climbing. As more gear afraid gym climbers ventured to real rock, bouldering has attracted many of them. I guess exposure and gear scare a few.
As for its safety, the only time I have been seriously hurt was when bouldering. Broke my right foot twice.
Bouldering is righteous climbing. Always has been and always will be.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 19, 2016 - 01:51pm PT
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This thread needs a photo
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Jan 20, 2016 - 03:29pm PT
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As for its safety, the only time I have been seriously hurt was when bouldering
Me too, Mark. Pat Ament also. Probably others.
Not for sissies . . .
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Jan 20, 2016 - 03:52pm PT
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Me too---ACL rupture from jump onto a pad.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Some athletes just keep going and going, but I think many more discover that they have sold short aspects of their future health, and when the option calls come in, it turns out that there is a significant price to be paid for the accomplishments of youth.
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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ok it is fun, go do it, just keep calling it bouldering,... not climbing.
I printed a few different shirts for Art of Climbing and was careful not to offend the bouldering crowd that were the bulk of my customers... the shirt i always wanted to print, but never did was:
if it is not three pitches high
it is not worth doing
yes i know, thousands of fantastic shorter routes...
but
no rhythm of swapping leads,
little attention to conserving strength or water,
no awareness of weather,
no lunch together on a ledge,
no swallows jetting by
late in the day no sense of the air pausing to slide back down the canyon from whence it came,
and missing in bouldering, or short climbs is the sense of commitment that comes after the third pitch or so..
no sense of trust and perfect balance of individual effort to climb, but teamwork and interdependence to complete the climb safely.
The friendship and the sense of cooperation to succeed are much different with 9 pitches, than with 9 moves at the gym with a roof and lights. anybody with a grin and a grigri will do,? or a carefully selected and trusted friend... hmmmm.
pace?
knowing what it means when the pressure drops...
knowing the signs of the pressure dropping?
choosing a route for the day based on the temperature not which color the holds are?
OMG route finding!
in short, pun intended, climbing is not just gymnastics with rock, it is still climbing when it is 40 feet high, but the brainpower, and the experience with others, can be so much more, on long routes.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Ok, we get it.
You suck at bouldering.
:-)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2017 - 10:54pm PT
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Lol, what do we remember more?
Some amazing bouldering sessions stick in my mind, but so do many multi pitch routes.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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I'm not going to pick apart the Bannister Manifesto...much of it's valid, all of it opinion.
I'll say this.
Most of my best friends almost only boulder.
These are people who've been climbing for up to 35 years.
People that have climbed El Cap 40 times, done first ascents in Pakistan, climbed 5.12 in every state they've visited and abroad, machined your cams and sewed your aiders.
All those things you mentioned about roped mutipitch climbing, yeah, we feel ya. It's bitchin.
But there's a reason we mostly boulder now.
Speaking only for myself and not the whole DRL Nation™, after climbing in just about all disciplines for closer to 30 years, I find that the actual climbing is the icing on the cake. Connecting and hanging with interesting people in beautiful places, exploring, being close to my dog, making photos, always having a comfy Nap Station on hand- these are the things I value.
Heights, views, self reliance, sending temps, teamwork, route finding- all the sh¡t you mentioned about (roped)climbing, they're all there with bouldering, just without the rope and trinkets.
Bouldering used to be an essential part of calling yourself an all around climber. Now people say "I don't boulder!" and that bouldering' snot climbing.
Oh well, suit yourself.
:-)
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jan 10, 2017 - 01:06am PT
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Sorry, but bouldering was never "an essential part of calling yourself an all around climber".
And never will be.
It's just bouldering.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 10, 2017 - 01:16am PT
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That's right, it's just something you did if you were a climber. But obviously now, it's a whole lot more.
But sorry, you'll have to take that up with Royal Robbins, Ron Kauk, and Tommy Caldwell- who, when acclaimed as the best "all-around" climber in the world, includes his bouldering grades in his resume.
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Scole
Trad climber
Zapopan
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Jan 10, 2017 - 11:52am PT
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Its all about being there in the moment. To me it does not matter if the climb is 2000m or 2m. Its nice to be outside with good companions regardless of size of the objective.
The real problem is spray. Do what you do for you only. Fame, or obscurity, will come regardless
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Jan 10, 2017 - 12:01pm PT
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Ondra did the Dawn Wall on his rest days from bouldering V16
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Jan 10, 2017 - 02:56pm PT
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and missing in bouldering, or short climbs is the sense of commitment ...
Surely you jest. I can't imagine doing this.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Jan 10, 2017 - 03:03pm PT
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EC, I'm with you on the 'Whatever'. Same has occurred at The Ridge. Tons of big formations, monster walls, domes, mega adventures all around......yet, the Mattress Mutts show up for a sesh, nary a rack amongst them. Limit yourself......dare you find yourself on desperate runout slab, Kiddos.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 11, 2017 - 08:08am PT
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Hey Mooch-
I went to "The Ridge". That place was awesome.
When I return I'm only bringing pads! Tons of exploring to do in the woods below those domes.
The bouldering was fantastic- the real meat of Shuteye climbing...
without all the "junk miles" lol!
I love climbing with a rope- but don't limit yourself- there's magic on the small stones!
"Mattress Mutts" lol!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jan 11, 2017 - 08:57am PT
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 11, 2017 - 09:10am PT
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Lol Hamie!!!!
I'll bet you're one of those guys that wears convertible pants, right?
I get it champ, you suck at bouldering too.
:-)
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Curt
climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
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Jan 11, 2017 - 09:29am PT
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Sorry, but bouldering was never "an essential part of calling yourself an all around climber".
Probably true. Bouldering enough tends to make a climber less round :-)
Curt
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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Jan 11, 2017 - 09:42am PT
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Hey if you like to Boulder,
Please do!
I just always tried to climb a new route.
repeating, and repeating, and repeating the same problem seemed so very boring.
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Cragar
climber
MSLA - MT
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Jan 11, 2017 - 09:44am PT
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Who cares?
I love it. Originally I bouldered in Kern Canyon then on to the Grotto at Columbia College followed by the mecca of the Eastside...um, I was hooked on this particular style of climbing for supreme funness and I sucked at it.
I don't really get why folks bag on it?? It would be like an MTB'r bagging on Trials(the new strava types tend to more). Bouldering will only expand your prized bag of tricks as well as work on your head if you manage to get on some high balls!!
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Curt
climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
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Jan 11, 2017 - 10:01am PT
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Hey if you like to Boulder,
Please do!
I just always tried to climb a new route.
repeating, and repeating, and repeating the same problem seemed so very boring.
Interestingly enough, if you bouldered more, you might be doing less trying and more succeeding.
Curt
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rbord
Boulder climber
atlanta
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Jan 11, 2017 - 11:41am PT
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Life is just practice for real climbing.
LOL hamie!!! Ok, life is just practice for spraying about other people's preference of adventure.
What I like is right and if you don't like it you're wrong! Sheesh, what's not to understand? I'm always right. Just like you.
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Rudbud
Gym climber
Marathon, FL
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Jan 11, 2017 - 02:50pm PT
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The real question is, has the bud light lime fad left us?
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Jan 11, 2017 - 03:48pm PT
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I just always tried to climb a new route. repeating, and repeating, and repeating the same problem seemed so very boring
Long ago, when mammoths roamed the American heartland, exploration was a primal motivator for bouldering. It was fun repeating and polishing problems, but the search for new boulder problems was a powerful incentive.
Guess not so much these days.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Jan 11, 2017 - 03:52pm PT
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Naw, it's still happening, you just get to go for more of a walk first.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2017 - 03:53pm PT
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jgill, some of us still look. Got lots a space for them, but they are harder to find further than 10 feet from the cooler in the back of my truck.
1stworldproblems
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2017 - 03:57pm PT
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The real question is, has the bud light lime fad left us?
Rudbud, careful they say purgatory is for the sinner that fails to partake of the Lime. heh
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Jan 11, 2017 - 03:59pm PT
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Gatoritas VS Limes?
Better octane, better 'gas' mileage....meh
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2017 - 04:00pm PT
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Feet away from a dirt road...
Undocumented, but surely sent by KLK, D. Forbes, Deano, Lance K and their crew or others.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 11, 2017 - 11:32pm PT
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This boulder
....definitely more than 10min from the road.
We're totally limiting ourselves down here.
:-)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2017 - 08:38am PT
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Brave's picture is broken. Upside down. Heh
Jefe, very poor quality. We will pray for more boulders for u. Lol
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 12, 2017 - 04:16pm PT
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Gill says,
but the search for new boulder problems was a powerful incentive.
Yes, powerful incentive indeed.
Driving force, really, for me and many I climb with.
Kinda hard to circuit when through the bushes, around the bend, there might be more of those.
But to what Bannister said about trying and trying and it getting old-
I understand, whether you're talking about circuiting or projecting
(I suspect you're talking about circuiting, you don't seem like much of a projecter :-)
Even though trying problems above your limit has been an inherent part of bouldering, I'd moved away from serious projecting. Maybe I didn't handle failure well.
I found that I needed higher success rates to make climbing fun again. I liked to try hard, just for not very long.
But recently I took on a project- a problem that really grabbed me. Really hard for me but still attainable, I think, at a grade I haven't climbed since I was a kid.
What projecting is teaching me now is to see success in smaller increments.
Maybe I'm more patient now, perhaps my OCD more advanced,
but I'm diggin' it again.
Add that I can work it alone, it's close to the road, and a classic Bob Murray line- I'm hooked.
And when I send it, which I will :-), there are harder lines to aspire to on the same boulder.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 12, 2017 - 04:32pm PT
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Honestly, I can't say for sure what thrills me more: finally sending a problem that I really, really wanted to do, or the rush you get when you discover a new five-star boulder, or even better, a whole new area. Sharing the experience with your exploration buddies. Doing half a dozen new, really good problems in a day. The butterflies you get in your stomach when you get your first up-close look at good new stuff after following a 35 mile shot-in-the-dark dirt road hunch. Ah, man, just the whole package. It's one bitchin' life, ain't it?
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 12, 2017 - 04:36pm PT
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BVB.
Word.
edit: cowboy lol! Those dogs are so amped on new problems they had to get it on!
edit#2: cowboy? Lol!
edit#3: cowboy... sweet vvvvv lol
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Jan 12, 2017 - 04:38pm PT
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edit for the Jefe:
after I figure out the shoulderstand (hahaha) beta to enter the fingercrack, I will be happier than those homosexshul cattledogs. And we know that they have all the fun!
"It's one bitchin' life, ain't it?"
copy that. affirmative.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jan 12, 2017 - 04:42pm PT
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How does one call bouldering a "fad?" I'm sure that humans were bouldering millenia before
the first ropes came along.
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Friend
climber
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Jan 12, 2017 - 05:51pm PT
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Bvb always nails it. And donini.
Jefe does that problem have a name? I'm starting to obsess myself and I've never been within 100 of miles of it. Looks outrageous.
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MikeL
Social climber
Southern Arizona
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Apr 16, 2017 - 07:46am PT
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ß Î Ø T Ç H,
Whew.
(To be young and strong again.)
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Wise Acres
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Apr 16, 2017 - 08:39am PT
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^^^
That's some bold boulder bouldering!
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Wow, that is one crazy boulder/death slab. I'd be a little freaked just to sit under it.
BAd
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Actually, given how crazy-popular bouldering is, asking if the "fad" has left us is like wondering if beer is no longer a thing. Gotta watch that Bishop vid, but with PR like that, it's no wonder the Buttermilks are INSANELY busy most good weekends. For old, mediocre climbers like me who don't really boulder anymore, that's a good thing. The obscure trad and sport climbing areas are uncrowded. Bouldering is cool, but I'm too concerned about maintaining healthy knees et al. to get after it anymore. Then there's my weak fingers....
BAd
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Soloing is safer than bouldering. You cannot fall when you solo....so you don't. You're supposed to fall when you boulder...so you do.
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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The worst injury I've ever had climbing was bouldering. Used to free solo a fair bit.
Seems like Chouinard broke his elbow bouldering and is the worst he's ever been hurt climbing and he took a 160 footer once!
On a 1" swami yet.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2017 - 07:39am PT
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Beer is a thing?
Thot it was all about the kombutcha?
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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I was there in the campground when Yvon and Kamps came back from that attempt on the north face of the Crooked Thumb in the Tetons. I remember Bob telling me he felt very little to no rope tug since the rope was threaded through some pitons. Bonnie could tell us more.
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Fan
climber
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What I remember is the relief of hearing the jingle of their hardware announcing their overdue return. They ate the chili that had been cooking for hours over the campfire before seeking medical help in Jackson Hole for a gouge in Yvon's leg. They thought a tetanus shot was in order as part of their descent was through a swamp where moose frequented.
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Your stories are gold, gentlemen. Thank you for those rich shares.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Me and Spencer decided to back into Bouldering, Yea!!
We had a nice day on the Fry Problem
spencer held the camera at the wrong angle for me
so I had to do a manual tilt to get the trees in the background to be upright
Bouldering fad left us?
No way, bouldering will always have a fan club
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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I work at a rock climbing gym, the fad of roped climbing left us...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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SPENCER!!!
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Base of the Nimbo Clatus
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aspendougy
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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I was looking at the interviews with Pratt that John Meeks did years ago, and when he was asked if there was anything special about big wall climbs, he shrugged his shoulders and said, "No, they are just longer, otherwise not any difference." So, it seemed that to him, length of climb was not what gives meaning to the sport.
I wish someone would stick a bunch of nice boulders in tropical, 85 degree ocean water somewhere; then when we fall, we just end up in the water. I think there are some bouldering problems like that in the Seychelles.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 14, 2017 - 07:21pm PT
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aspendougy, Trad climber. Los Angeles, CA
I wish someone would stick a bunch of nice boulders in tropical, 85 degree ocean water somewhere; then when we fall, we just end up in the water.
Aspendougy,, Google " Spring Beach Boulders, Virgin Grda BVI ,[Click to View YouTube Video]
https://youtu.be/YJ5ruxcctJw
Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands (BVI), has become a touristy spot.
there are other great videos. ( checkout,1-2,tourist videos)
As well as Short simple climbing one's.
These professional productions, are a climb'r polished mix of both, [Click to View YouTube Video]
https://youtu.be/RwYirFNSpKo
Will that satisfy that wish?
Also
Deeply recommend if you also scuba - ? -
there is good diving.
I think bucket list are a bit. . .?trite?.. Then I look at my life and see it might fit that description , have to admit I've been a willing participant, in pursuit of more than a few -must dos.
One was Scuba Dive on a sunken ship.
if one or two sharks could be provided, in the background,
I thought", 'I might just die a happy man' "
( The way I lived, in pursuit of the journey )(climbing, & fate being what it was I had a fatalist attitude to life. ')
Enter the Wreck of the Rone. It is the Ship-wreck that was used in the movie The Deep.
The dive, what is maybe the best 1st wreck dive to do, is /was one of the best you can do.
Diving, to me basically has a multiplying effect - possibly, more sublime high's.
Same dead is dead as climbing. Or big wave surfing, race car driving . . . . etc.
Diving doubles down in every way on climbing. Cost of travel gear time spent . . . .
Until you come up ten miles from shore alone in shark infested water you have not lived.heehee, (B~@
[photoid=]
.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 14, 2017 - 11:42pm PT
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a happily ( smiling ) fun chunk, I've been visiting every year for the last decade.
the last time I tried to get a timed selfie here
in my haste to get up high enough to be in frame, fast enough;
I blew it and fell, awkwardly
-no crash pad-
I jammed my index finger breaking the knuckle.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 15, 2017 - 12:26am PT
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I've got very little by way of pictures at all , but I've posted those pictures
I recognize the value of big holds up high and easy top outs, this one is great too
Greetings From Small Rock Purgatory !
Hey ?? Someone deleted thnks for the inspiration !
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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May 15, 2017 - 06:54am PT
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When 400 climbers walk into the Phoenix Rock Gym.....
30 are in the lead area
60 are in the bouldering area
310 are on the top rope routes
For sure the majority of the business we have at the PRG is on the top rope routes. Many times out of 54 ropes all are being used and people are waiting in line. Focus Bouldering gym is 3 miles away. Climbmax gym is 7 miles away. Black Rock is 15 miles away. AZ on the rocks is 16 miles away. There are many gyms in Phoenix but there sure is a lot of climbers filling the gyms, and or climbers prefer to be at the Phoenix Rock Gym.
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WBraun
climber
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May 15, 2017 - 07:00am PT
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400 people in a gym inside a building.
Wow, it must stink with heavy B.O. .......
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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May 15, 2017 - 08:05pm PT
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Actually it doesn't stink at all. The PRG uses swamp coolers so the air is constantly blowing out, not recycling
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2017 - 09:47pm PT
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Captions for the video...
1. why?
2. manually?
3. and there were two boulder problems!
4. and there were three boulder problems!
5. sure, stick your head in there to get the bar back
6. wtf?
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paganmonkeyboy
climber
mars...it's near nevada...
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Aug 29, 2017 - 10:08pm PT
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^^ what munge said....
And I thought chiseling was frowned upon...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2017 - 11:54pm PT
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Trick or beta-treat?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2018 - 10:13pm PT
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Biotch bringing the goods, as per usual. good man
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Feb 12, 2018 - 09:55am PT
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This thread contains the classic “Bannister Manifesto”,
and one of my favorite pages in a thread in recent memory.
Back on post 221
Bannister wrote
ok it is fun, go do it, just keep calling it bouldering,... not climbing.
I printed a few different shirts for Art of Climbing and was careful not to offend the bouldering crowd that were the bulk of my customers... the shirt i always wanted to print, but never did was:
if it is not three pitches high
it is not worth doing
yes i know, thousands of fantastic shorter routes...
but
no rhythm of swapping leads,
little attention to conserving strength or water,
no awareness of weather,
no lunch together on a ledge,
no swallows jetting by
late in the day no sense of the air pausing to slide back down the canyon from whence it came,
and missing in bouldering, or short climbs is the sense of commitment that comes after the third pitch or so..
no sense of trust and perfect balance of individual effort to climb, but teamwork and interdependence to complete the climb safely.
The friendship and the sense of cooperation to succeed are much different with 9 pitches, than with 9 moves at the gym with a roof and lights. anybody with a grin and a grigri will do,? or a carefully selected and trusted friend... hmmmm.
pace?
knowing what it means when the pressure drops...
knowing the signs of the pressure dropping?
choosing a route for the day based on the temperature not which color the holds are?
OMG route finding!
in short, pun intended, climbing is not just gymnastics with rock, it is still climbing when it is 40 feet high, but the brainpower, and the experience with others, can be so much more, on long routes.
The rest of that page is classic as well.
Gotta love those 50yr old boulder problems that aren’t worth doing.
:-)
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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May 29, 2018 - 06:35am PT
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Another one (La Barrosa's first V9). The holds on the face after the roof are maybe 3mm (1/8th inch) crimpers, but they're sharp!
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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somehow, i stumbled on this tonight.. laughing as i had not read the "manifesto" reference until tonight, i said if you enjoy bouldering, go and do!! Please!! Enjoy it!! and i get the social part of bouldering that simply is not to be had on long routes.. Personally, i love the sense of exploration, the demands for perception and problem solving and once i have done a section of rock, i have no interest to go back.. boulder, or climb, so for me, i did not boulder because it generally requires repeating what one has already done.. so i find myself bewildered at Curt's caustic comment, what i could, or could not do was never a factor....... I had Rich Lake change the holds on my shop wall twice a week, and then i did the new problem, once.
We all enjoy being out there, taking photos, watching a sunset, the special friendships we form or sustain.. some enjoy one more than the other, great, they are different, as are we, that, is ok.
A few weeks ago, i met a friend who had broken her ankle in the Valley this spring.. I observed that when on a rope, 20' above a ledge she would already have two pieces in, rightful fear of grounding... but bouldering she was willing to assume that same circumstance, unroped... interesting it is, how we would not assume a certain level of risk with a rope on, but bouldering, we will climb past, where we would have plugged something in.
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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but just to address the question.. it is not a fad.. Donini was exactly correct, humans on stone long before ropes.. that, would make roped climbing the "Fad."
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originalpmac
Mountain climber
Timbers of Fennario
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Now I like grafitti and I love rocks, but never shall the two cross.
On Donner, near the old train tunnels.
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skywalker1
Trad climber
co
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^^^^^ +1
Not a fad. A 4 year old will do it instinctively. At least mine did/ does.
S...
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Zay
climber
Monterey, Ca
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Feb 27, 2019 - 06:12am PT
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Every fall is a ground fall.
Predicated on difficulty, not fun (subjective I suppose).
Not my cup.
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skywalker1
Trad climber
co
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One of my favorite days climbing was bouldering at Hueco on mushrooms. I onsighted many hi-balls that I would not normally attempt. It felt smooth and without concern. I felt very relaxed at camp and just looked at the stars. And giggling a little. ;-)
S...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2019 - 08:24pm PT
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like that water kit!
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Bouldering will never die. At the very least it will be something that climbers do at the end of a day climbing. Bouldering makes you STRONG.
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Apr 10, 2019 - 06:04am PT
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Ha! I recognize that story!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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May 31, 2019 - 11:58pm PT
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Bouldering came first
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| Messages 1 - 307 of total 307 in this topic |
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