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Messages 1 - 49 of total 49 in this topic
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Aug 8, 2010 - 08:37pm PT
But...but...but...them towers is just sand all stuck together with godfunk!?!?!

Bravo on a job well done! Sedona is very spread out!
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Aug 8, 2010 - 09:42pm PT
Indeed- Only madmen with a death-wish put up routes on those crumbling mud-piles ;)
Mimi

climber
Aug 8, 2010 - 09:47pm PT
That is an accomplishment, MrE. Good job!

Didn't realize the area was so large. Only climbed there once. Very scenic.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Aug 8, 2010 - 10:10pm PT
Funny, isn't it? Most people think guidebooks come from stores.

Sure. Just like routes come from guidebooks.

Well, okay, as Steve pointed out, Arizona routes come from piles of mud, and Arizona guidebooks probably come from certifiable lunatics, but...

John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
Aug 8, 2010 - 11:28pm PT
If you can send me a link to where people can buy it online I'll post it up on the home page of mountainproject.


http://www.mountainproject.com

MisterE

Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
Aug 9, 2010 - 12:35am PT
Just got permission to post the cover shot - thanks John


Back cover:

drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
Aug 9, 2010 - 02:09am PT
Get a room pate and tr.

Stoked for you Erik.
Can't wait to get my paws on it.
But that would mean that I'd actually have to go climbing in Sedona!

When's the party?
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Aug 9, 2010 - 02:11am PT
ooooooo, Jefe slips in with a well placed barb!
MTucker

Ice climber
Arizona
Aug 9, 2010 - 02:40am PT
Just a bit behind schedule but .......

What is the damage? Is this going to be a $40 guide?
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Aug 9, 2010 - 03:02am PT
(Edit: Comments on fonts removed, as Pate deleted his remarks thereon.)
http://lmnop.blogs.com/lauren/2006/10/americas_most_f.html

Anyway, congratulations to the Doctor, Mr. E, and friends!
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Aug 9, 2010 - 11:25am PT
Pate- Will you please give it a rest? ... or tell ya what. You spend 2 years of your life working on something full time for absolutely zero pay and post it up so we can critique it.... just to be fair.

It's friggin climbing guide. Nobody gives a sh#t about the font except a handful of snooty graphic designers with a huge stick up their ass who want to jump on the band-wagon. We're just happy all this info is finally out of David's head and typed on paper for others to use. The font is irrelevant.

PS: It's like- 90% hard trad climbing BTW- so your "grid bolting" comment sounds unbelievably stupid to anyone who has climbed there- but thanks for bumping the thread.
Reeotch

Trad climber
Kayenta, AZ
Aug 9, 2010 - 11:41am PT
Thank you, David and Eric!

Nice job on the cover shots. I can't wait to get me a copy. I have no doubt it will be the best thing out there on the subject (of climbing in Sedona). Lots of variety there these days. Probably one of the most under rated and misunderstood climbing areas anywhere.

Thanks again gentlemen!

P.S. Its not a chemtrail, its a UFO!
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Aug 9, 2010 - 12:06pm PT
Good work guys, looking forward to getting a copy despite not living in AZ anymore.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Aug 9, 2010 - 02:07pm PT
Oh m'friggin' gosh, The Doctor and MisterE, the coolest dudes to rope up with, workin' conjuntos?!? So totally outside. Man, I love that front cover, so bitchen. And what a formation on the back cover. Do, like, people climb that stuff?

Big props...
bluering

Trad climber
CA
Aug 9, 2010 - 02:17pm PT
Nice looking guide. Congrats are in order!
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Aug 9, 2010 - 02:38pm PT

Did the ultra classic Mud, Sweat and Fears make it in?

bwahahahah

FA ontheedge and Cory E, 5.11, five or so pitches.
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Aug 9, 2010 - 02:44pm PT
K-man- not only do they climb them... both The Mace (that picture) and Oak Creek Spire (below) are double spires. Once you get about 2/3 pitches up you have to "jump across" the gaping maw below to summit the formation. I'd be interested to hear any first hand accounts from people who botched the grab.




justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Aug 9, 2010 - 02:57pm PT
don't be coy.

It's so deeply ingrained into my nature at this point the jaws of life could not extract it.

PS: You'd win that bet. I didn't climb there in the 90's. I don't climb much there now. Sedona's for hard-men. Not muppets.
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Aug 9, 2010 - 03:16pm PT
So 90s.. FA Louder Than Bombs..


Ontheedge and V.D, 5.11 b/c, though VD's tights might have been 80s vintage.
MisterE

Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
Aug 9, 2010 - 07:34pm PT
Ontheedge:

That reminds me - our guide is not comprehensive. For instance, we only included 4 aid routes. They were included because they are in areas already receiving coverage in the guidebook. Many of them are listed in the other Guides, as well. There is no bouldering coverage in our book. The local bouldering crew is doing a separate guide for that arena.

We had so many areas and information to cover, we just couldn't include everything. Also, although both Tim Toula's book "A Better Way to Die" and David's old Sedona Guide are out-of-print, we wanted to leave a sense of adventure and mystery in finding both the guides and some of the routes that are listed in these books and not our new guide. There are some real out-there climbs for the intrepid adventurer.

Erik

MTucker

Ice climber
Arizona
Aug 9, 2010 - 08:55pm PT
Hmmm…. Not a comprehensive guide.

Did you at least cover the classics? Castles in the Sand did not and that sucked. Didn’t buy it.

So to cover the area I have to have 4 guides. Two are out of print and two aren’t printed yet.

Other guide books like Supertopo have a different philosophy. Make the old guide and topos better along with new stuff.

I would think in 306 pages that cover 35 areas that would include the already covered routes. The other guides are pretty thin.

Maybe I will have to stick to Mountain Project for free and up to date information.
Mimi

climber
Aug 9, 2010 - 10:04pm PT
Not all who squander are lost. Buy the guide for cripe's sake. I'm sure it's better than whatever is out there.
MisterE

Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
Aug 9, 2010 - 10:34pm PT
Definitely covers all the classics.

There has been a HUGE amount of new route activity in Sedona in the last 10-15 years, and I think most people will be happy with the updated version...

Of course, you can't please everyone...
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Aug 9, 2010 - 10:52pm PT
Erik and Dave - nice job getting it done!
(and kudos to the PageMaker Person™™™ as well!)

Just goes to show... all you can do it whack it out and chuck it out there.
Nobody's satisfied anymore no matter what you do.
MTucker

Ice climber
Arizona
Aug 14, 2010 - 03:25am PT
It will be good to see the classics and the new new stuff. Thanx
H

Mountain climber
there and back again
Aug 14, 2010 - 03:40am PT
Happy for your Erik. Can't wait to get my copy. Even if it takes me forever to get back out there. Can I paypal you to get one sent to me?

Congrats brother!
MisterE

Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
Aug 16, 2010 - 07:35pm PT
Just got two copies of the first proof today! Looks great!


Here's some teaser pics:





Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 17, 2010 - 03:48am PT
Nice!
Did "Day in court" make the cut? Obscure death routes to the left of it?
Not all who squander are lost.
Too funny, and "seek the armbar unbroken, the wyde will again be king"....
georgiegirl

Sport climber
Heaven
Aug 17, 2010 - 11:42am PT
Mister E, You mentioned a release party at VR. Is there a date yet? I'm always up for a party! I can't wait to get my paws on this new guide. :)
The Doctor

Social climber
Da Bronx
Aug 17, 2010 - 01:47pm PT
Thanks everyone for all the kind words. Can't wait to get it into your paws'. The DR.
Chinchen

climber
Way out there....
Aug 17, 2010 - 04:53pm PT
Congrats fellas! Looking forward to buying one!
MisterE

Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
Aug 17, 2010 - 06:43pm PT
Georgiegirl, we will announce the book release party date here, probably be mid-September. If it is too close to Facelift/IC Sushifest, we'll push it back to early October.

The book will be $35.00

As David said, thanks for your kind words!

Now I gotta go do some work with a red pen.... 8-)
F10

Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
Aug 17, 2010 - 07:00pm PT
Looking forward to picking one up,

It will need to be autographed, sounds like a roadtrip

MisterE

Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
Aug 18, 2010 - 11:36pm PT
Just got through the first edit, still have to send it to the Doctor - but this guide frikkin' ROCKS, people.

It's gonna be great,

and worth the wait.

Thanks to the other members of the team: The Doctor and Boltgrl - you guys crushed it!

Big grins, Erik
Sherri

Trad climber
WA
Aug 19, 2010 - 02:11am PT
Way to go, Erik! The guidebook looks captivating and well-crafted. No doubt that it's destined to be a classic kept close at hand by every southwest climber.
nature

climber
Whereverland....
Aug 19, 2010 - 11:05am PT
Lies.


you photoshopped that picture of the guide in your hands.

all lies....


except the sushi part. and the release party. and did I mention yer gonna die?
shopgirl

climber
Oct 31, 2010 - 10:33pm PT
Erik,
I work in Canyon Outfitters in Sedona. We'd love to stock your book, people have been asking for it since last summer...they look sad when I say we don't have it!
MisterE

Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
Nov 2, 2010 - 01:31am PT
Thanks, shopgirl - I will be sure and put Canyon Outfitters on our list of shops!

This thing should be out by 2012, really.
shopgirl

climber
Nov 8, 2010 - 10:29am PT
We'll be waiting.
Thank you.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Nov 8, 2010 - 12:22pm PT
Hey E, I'll trade you an American Fork guide for a copy ;^)
Gal

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Nov 8, 2010 - 12:42pm PT
Looks fantastic. Just did some crazy backcountry Sedona climb, can't wait to see some of the new stuff out there. Great job, I'm sure it was a grueling project.
MisterE

Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
Nov 8, 2010 - 01:57pm PT
Just ordered the second proof this morning.

There were a TON of edits on the first one, but this one should go way faster.

I will have it in-hand on Thursday, to David by next Tuesday or Wednesday for his reviews, so...

2012 for sure! ;-)

Hahaha, Will.
Larry

Trad climber
Bisbee
May 24, 2011 - 05:15pm PT
What's the news?
MisterE

Social climber
Cinderella Story, Outa Nowhere
May 24, 2011 - 05:35pm PT
Thanks for the bump!

The form letter that went out last week:

Greetings friends!

David and I have encountered some unexpected set-backs in the late stages of publication and are forced to begin the process anew.

We want to make sure that this guide is a proud representation of all of the efforts of everyone involved. There are elements of accuracy, consistency and aesthetic that are very important to us. We respect the generosity and input from all parties involved.

I have recently spent a week in Flagstaff with David, going through the information page-by-page. This was followed up by a complete redoing of all 150 photos and photo-topos. I am now redoing all 105 hand-drawn topos, as well. The result is more like what David and I had envisioned. It is a great feeling.

We both apologize for the delays, the end product will be better for every bit of extra time we put into this.

We want to thank you all for your amazing input, patience and keeping a positive spin on this project.

Your contributions have been invaluable to us.

Erik and David
MTucker

Ice climber
Arizona
May 24, 2011 - 06:51pm PT
WOW. Quite the rewrite.

Interesting.

Wonder what could have caused this drastic measure.
nature

climber
WTF?
May 24, 2011 - 06:56pm PT
I so want to comment but I'll just hold my tongue.
Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
May 24, 2011 - 11:10pm PT
Congrats... a baby is born! Lots of work. Tons of abuse. Feel good about what you accomplished.
R.B.

Trad climber
Land of the Lahar
May 25, 2011 - 01:43am PT
Sometimes you have to do a REGEN, othertimes, you may want to do a REDRAW, but in other cases, sometimes you have to START ANEW.

Good luck! RB
MisterE

Social climber
Cinderella Story, Outa Nowhere
May 26, 2011 - 02:30am PT
Thanks, everyone.

I got back from Flagstaff last Monday. In the week-and-a-half since then I have completely redone the 150 photos and photo-topos, as mentioned. I just now finished redoing all 107 hand-drawn topos, the real meat of the work, since we changed the layout for EVERYTHING for a cleaner look.

So, in sum: 10 days of work, usually 8-16 hours per day depending on the job that PAYS, for a net result of page-ready topos numbering 257.

My fingers hurt, and I haven't climbed in three weeks.
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