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James
Social climber
My Subconcious
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 26, 2005 - 06:04pm PT
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Michael Reardon's numerous free solos are impressive to say the least. It's pretty interesting how much the guy gets slandered. Is it jealousy?
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jsavage
climber
Bishop, CA
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Nov 26, 2005 - 08:03pm PT
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It was fun being a the Needles the same week he was there a couple of summer ago. Had a couple of good bs sessions with him out at the rocks. Soloing is a pretty sincere way to climb. If his high energy and talkativeness get to you walk away and go climb. Keep sending Micheal!
Jim
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville
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Nov 26, 2005 - 08:13pm PT
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Micheal Reardon is committed to his sport.
if people out there don't believe what he sends i suggest they climb with him.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
St. Louis
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Nov 26, 2005 - 08:42pm PT
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Nice guy. And he takes nice boobie photos.
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 26, 2005 - 09:03pm PT
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There was a lot of controversy about Reardon and his claims, James. There were a lot of doubters. I've never met him, but one of his claims was a free solo of a route that Croft and Shultz couldn't do with a rack and rope.
Anyone know about this?
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billygoat
climber
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Nov 26, 2005 - 09:40pm PT
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I don't have any problem with Reardon and his solos. And I won't have any problem when he dies from the way he solos. The problem I have is that he has to show off while on that kind of path. Putting women's panties and barbie dolls (was it?) in Sierra summit registers while soloing the Palisades traverse in a cotton t-shirt and blue jeans (something like that, at least)??? What the fu-ck? He's burly for not dying for that kind of stunt, but he's also proving that he's gonna kill himself unless he changes his approach. I wish he would shut the hell up and do it already. That way we can leave room in the mags for the climbers with a life wish.
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James
Social climber
My Subconcious
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2005 - 12:07am PT
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"What the fu-ck? He's burly for not dying for that kind of stunt, but he's also proving that he's gonna kill himself unless he changes his approach. I wish he would shut the hell up and do it already."
And I thought I was a dick.
Werner,
Not sure about the Croft and Schultz stuff but there is a lot of unsubantiated rumors about the guy.
I hope Reardon solos Astroman. Even Croft had problems with that one. If you read his essay a Comic Book Flight Manual in the Huber Yosemite book, Croft describes how he tried the boulder problem three times. Makes sense why Dean was hesitant...
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billygoat
climber
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Nov 27, 2005 - 12:33am PT
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Jesus James,
I thought I left that one ambiguous enough for a careful reader to figure out: "do it already" could refer to either changing his approach OR dying. I'm not simply wishing him death. I think he's either going to die or change his approach. I just wish he'd get on with it.
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Shack
Big Wall climber
So. Cal.
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Nov 27, 2005 - 12:40am PT
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I've overheard him flapping his gums before...so what...he seems nice enough, but I usually only slander people I know...
Like Russ...the only time I've ever actually seen Russ climb was when he climbed on his roof to put lightbulbs in his pumpkins!
ever notice how his offers to go climbing are only good for like 1.47 seconds?
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billygoat
climber
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Nov 27, 2005 - 01:38am PT
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Humm,
I find it far more rewarding to slander people I don't know. For one, it's usually legal. That's because only public figures are exempt from slander laws, and I don't know to many public figures. One another point, where would I be in life if I didn't get to slander politicians. And I sure as hell don't want to know any politicians. Well, maybe.
Oh, and I could care less if somebody is nice or not (doesn't the tone of most of my posts make the obvious?). I'm sure Reardon is a nice guy. I know plenty of nice people who don't solo, and plenty who do. All I know is the way he comes across in public appearance: he looks real stupid in how he solos. Maybe I'm wrong. But he sure does a good job of looking like he's about to die. And I know a lot of folks who've seen him in the media feel the same way.
No, I will not delete my original post. As brutally honest as it may be, I stand by it.
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billygoat
climber
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Nov 27, 2005 - 01:44am PT
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stubborness and arogance... the two parts of the billygoat character I'm most proud of. (Remember, I post as a character, not as myself). I will admit, it's fun jabbing with you.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Nov 27, 2005 - 02:00am PT
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Hmmm... leaving panties and vagisil in summit registers. I can hardly think of anything cooler.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Nov 27, 2005 - 02:04am PT
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Maybe if Kate left it there.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Nov 27, 2005 - 02:17am PT
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XOXO perhaps?
I got your email. Sorry I err, forgot, to call you when I was in Jtree. heh heh.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Nov 27, 2005 - 02:30am PT
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Yep, you emailed me the picture of you rappelling. If I thought you hadn't emailed the same pic to crimpergirl, and I was in fact a chick, I might have been flattered.
Ha!
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addiroid
Big Wall climber
Long Beach, CA
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Nov 27, 2005 - 02:51pm PT
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People talk crap about Mike because they can not do what he does, but they want to. I was talking to a guy who did Sun Ribbon Arete and about noon when they were half way up, Mike came flying by with another guy doing SRA and Sill in a day from the car. All solo. Of course the roped guys were jealous, but thought it was way cool and respectful also.
Mike has fun. You people (4 of them I guess) need to loosen the hell up. He's a hilarious guy and is just out here to enjoy himself. He has way too much love in his life and family to have a "death wish". I met him way back in the day when he could only solo 200 5.12's in a day. He's just as down to earth then as he is now.
And what the hell is wrong with doing the Palisades Traverse in a T-Shirt and jeans??? Just because people climb in Josh with GORE-TEX when it's 70 DEGREES and SUNNY doesn't mean everyone has to be all dorked-out when they climb. It's Cali. 300 days of sunshine. Move fast and you won't have to worry about weather.
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billygoat
climber
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Nov 27, 2005 - 03:00pm PT
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Addidroid,
there's far more than four of us who get a bit squeamish when we see Reardon pull off his feats in the way he does.
I'm certainly not jealous of anything he does, because I have absolutely no desire to do what he does the way he does it. What I'm saying is that I wish he wasn't getting in the spot light as much as he is, because I think the folk who deserve the spotlight are those who mindfully go about what they're doing. He seems to be doing it with jock will power. And there's no denying he's got a lot of it, but I don't think that's what should be media deserving in the climbing community.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
on a rock or mountain out west
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Nov 27, 2005 - 11:03pm PT
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I know Michael....and I know the reason people are jealous of him and talk smack.
It is not because he's a badass mofo who can outclimb and outsolo most people climbing today (and have a better time doing whatever sick sh#t he's doing than 99% of people out climbing any given route on any given day).
The reason is......he knows the words to EVERY SINGLE MOJO NIXON AND SKID ROPER SONG EVER MADE.
And will sing them the whole time he's on the rock.
C'mon now....how many of us haven't had just the slightest urge to take a rock and throw it at him when he's 50 ft up soloing some 11 while singing "Elvis is Everywhere" at the top of his lungs with that sh#t eating grin on his face.
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trapeze artemis
climber
Surf City
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Nov 27, 2005 - 11:59pm PT
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Y'know Mike's gonna do what Mike wants to in spite of any slander or bullshit anyone says about him.
I will say that I have seen him solo some hard ass sh#t that I'm incapable of doing with a rack, rope and set of aiders.
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billygoat
climber
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Nov 28, 2005 - 12:41am PT
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Locker,
one word for you "Alpinist." The reasons I don't buy the other mags are pretty much the same as yours. However, I also think part of their bad editing work is reflected in publishing articles such as the one concerning Reardon's send of the Palisades. It's sensationalism--best left for a spray forum such as this one right here.
I will say, though, that I find the accomplishments of the hard sport climbers and boulders quite impressive. But not nearly as impressive as what takes place in the backcountry. And I find the stories of the alpine environment much more varied and adventurous. I happen to be really good friends with Chris Sharma, and watching him climb is sweet. But I agree that reading about it over and over is a bit monotonous. All the hard problems and sport routes blend into each other after a while.
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Hootervillian
climber
Yellow Post #5
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Nov 28, 2005 - 12:03pm PT
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i don't know him, he couldn't care less, but i find myself curiously attracted to this thread. found i have included it in 'my programs' as my Nana used to say. i'm such a hypocrite. sorry Nana.
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John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
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Nov 28, 2005 - 01:30pm PT
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Somebody post a link to Reardon's site please. I have it bookmarked at home but not here at work. Tried Googling Mike and Michael Reardon climbing etc., freesolo.com, free soloing, soloing, and looking for links on other websites. Nothing is working for me this morning.
Edit:
Thanks pc.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Ca
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Nov 28, 2005 - 01:52pm PT
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I think Mike wouldn't make such a deal of it all if other people weren't so screwed up about it in the first place. Mike just likes to have fun. He has more energy than I anyone I know and it is infectious to be around. I have known him since he started climbing and the growth he has enjoyed as a climber since he semi-retired and started climbing full time is impressive.
Besides, it seems like Jake doesn't like being out-soloed and is back in training! The next few years could be interesting.
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landcruiserbob
Trad climber
the ville, colorado
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Nov 28, 2005 - 02:16pm PT
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The dude rocks.He may have some tweaked energy & is a bit over the top. The sh#t he just did in the needles is amazing.rg
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Nov 28, 2005 - 06:45pm PT
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Watch out Mr. Goat, I think ye contradicts yeself, for ye state:
"However, I also think part of [climbing mag's] bad editing work is reflected in publishing articles such as the one concerning Reardon's send of the Palisades."
Which you quickly follow with:
"I will say, though, that I find the accomplishments of the hard sport climbers and boulders quite impressive. But not nearly as impressive as what takes place in the backcountry."
If Reardon's rip of the Pal Traverse ain't a bad-ass backcountry send, then I don't know what is. So what's it going to be, do you like backcountry accomplishments or don't cha?
Personally I think yer just jealous of all the undergarments that MR has to spread across the high Sierra. If he instead signed all the registers like a happy Jack, would you have anything to grouse about? At least there's a sense of humor in there somewhere, unlike your pittyful comment about wanting the guy to either change his ways or take the fly.
Remember young stud; if you don't like the news, then go out and make some of your own.
:- k
PS. Werner, us me more about the route that Croft & Shultz worked on, but Mr.R boasts of a 3rd class...
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yo
climber
NOT Fresno
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Nov 28, 2005 - 07:00pm PT
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Not sure if it's what Werner's talking about, but the Romantic Warrior piece mentions like "many top roped teams, including Croft and Schultz," have failed to redpoint (or maybe onsight) the route.
Come on, kids, MR is trolling you.
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 28, 2005 - 07:24pm PT
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k-man
”us me more about the route that Croft & Shultz worked on, but Mr.R boasts of a 3rd class”
I don’t know anything about this but I remember reading about it somewhere. The post from Dave 7 posts up is the stuff I’m always hearing about Michael. Yes the "Romantic Warrior piece" is one in particular, Yo, that I heard about that seems so outlandish.
There isn’t any jealousy or envy involved in questioning controversial claims and statements made by Michael. There are a lot of doubters to some of his claims and it does not stem from any jealousy or envy.
Like myself I’ve seen and witnessed a lot of the best free soloists in time, and there was no doubt or controversy surrounding those, but with Reardon there seems to be way to much to give total credence to all his so called claims, ie lack of credible witnesses and unaltered full sequences of photos/videos that he presented as evidence to some of his more outlandish solo claims.
My point is not to put him down whatsoever but there is an old saying that if there is enough rumors and controversy there is a degree of truth to some of it, unless it is dispelled through proof by credible witnesses or evidence.
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James
Social climber
My Subconcious
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2005 - 08:24pm PT
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You have a reasonable argument Werner.
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marky
climber
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Nov 28, 2005 - 08:27pm PT
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the panties-and-Ninja Turtles thing is funny enough. But it's littering plain and simple. slap a fine on the guy or put him on Litter Patrol in any one of the national parks.
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Straight Outta Squamton
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Nov 28, 2005 - 08:36pm PT
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I'd pay big bucks to see an unedited video of him soloing Moonbeam Crack...
And as long as yer filming, why knott just burn a quick lap on Equinox for the camera?
Hot Rocks would be cool too––I could use some beta on that one.
I mean, the EBGB's video was bad ass.
I would like to see some of the harder stuff as well.
Apparently I'm knott the only one?
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Fluoride
Trad climber
on a rock or mountain out west
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Nov 28, 2005 - 10:23pm PT
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Werner wrote:
"My point is not to put him down whatsoever but there is an old saying that if there is enough rumors and controversy there is a degree of truth to some of it, unless it is dispelled through proof by credible witnesses or evidence."
I could not DISAGREE more about your adage. Rumors and controversy towards people who find themselves in the limelight usually start with people with not much going on in their own empty lives that live to analyze or take down others due to their own insecurities. Most of the people who talk smack about Michael or say he's full of sh#t either don't know the guy, or have such inferiority complexes themselves that talking bad about the guy makes them feel better about their sad selves.
Michael's had enough credible witnesses to enough of his accomplishments that those who live to call him full of crap are probably the ones who are actually the ones full of crap. Even though that probably came out wrong, but you know what I mean.
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 28, 2005 - 10:46pm PT
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So then Fluoride, you are calling that guy dave a liar and full of crap?
And we are not talking about, "Most of the people who talk smack...", but honest inquiries, since most people do not know about these incredible free solo feats, nor the man behind them.
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mtwoodsonguide
Big Wall climber
San Diego
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Nov 28, 2005 - 10:59pm PT
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A legitimate question for Michael Reardon-
I climbed from Thunderbolt to Sill around the 24th of August 2005
This would make me the next person after you to summit at least a couple of these, if not all of them.
I read and signed each summit register on Thunderbolt, Starlight, North Pal, Pemonium, and Sill.
Why did I see no sign of you? I thought you left some sort of souvenours or something.
Erik Roed, San Diego
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kevin Fosburg
Sport climber
park city,ut
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Nov 28, 2005 - 11:07pm PT
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Just read the R&I article about Reardon soloing Romantic Warrior. It sounds pretty convincing. I agree with what Randy Leavitt is quoted as saying therein, "Despite not knowing Michael and never having climbed with him or seen him climb, I have to take him at his word because that's the way the sport has always been to me."
That's the way it's always seemed to me too. If you tell someone you did a certain climb in a certain way, you expect to be believed and if someone claims something you take them at their word. I mean, shiite, a bunch of people saw him solo the Turbo Flange. That seems somewhat proud and indicative.
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funkness
climber
So,Ca.
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Nov 28, 2005 - 11:51pm PT
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I'm jealous of his hair.
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Shack
Big Wall climber
So. Cal.
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Nov 28, 2005 - 11:53pm PT
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Dave, maybe your experience with MR shows something that no one has said and even
the opposite of what others have said...
Have you ever soloed anything?(Not a jab)
I have only soloed like 2or 3 climbs in my life...the hardest was only 5.9...
but the last thing I wanted was people around to distract me or anything! I was feeling enough pressure as it was.
So maybe MR wasn't looking to draw a crowd and didn't feel like flashing
that 5.9 in front of you guys like a real dick would.
Just my $0.02...
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Ouch!
climber
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Nov 28, 2005 - 11:56pm PT
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"aren't billygoats known for their stubborness by the way???..."
Known more for pissing on their beards.
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Shack
Big Wall climber
So. Cal.
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Nov 29, 2005 - 12:10am PT
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Dooood! I saw MR do an inedible mofo too!
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
boulder, co
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Nov 29, 2005 - 12:14am PT
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dave wrote: I'm just saying what I saw and heard with my own 2 ears and my own 4 eyes. I never said whether he did or did'nt or if I believed him or not, just saying it like it is and that I found it kind of peculiar.
Dave, why don't you call MR and ask to follow him around one day climbing. Should be a mute point from then on...
I know Michael and don't doubt him at all.
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billygoat
climber
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Nov 29, 2005 - 12:52am PT
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K-man,
No, not a contradiction. The kind of respect I have for sh#t going down in the backcountry is for stuff which is in and of itself amazing. I find leaving panties and ninja turtles in summit registers and showing up at the trailhead in a halucinatory state more pathetic than amazing. People who push their limits with ample experience and training behind them is awesome. But when I read the about the Reardon Palisade traverse I thought two things: he's a lucky SOB for getting away with that, and he sounds like a sport climber who got lucky. Now, without knowing the dude, he might be neither. However, that's the kind of impression he made on me.
I don't get that feeling from reading about feats like Steve House on the Rupal face or Tommy sending the Nose and Freerider in a day. Those feats draw attention because they are spectacular achievments. Reardon might be doing some great stuff, but from the outside it seems like his attitude draws more attention that what he's doing.
--William the Beard Pisser
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Nov 29, 2005 - 01:32am PT
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Hey Locker, tell us about the Nun and the Sailor!
As for those who doubt MR's Equinox solo, a single still of him above the crux without a rope or harness is enough to convince me. How else would he have gotten there if it were not by doloinh, and how would he get out of there if not by soloing?
And Leavitt's quote is funny (ie, BS), considering how he put up a grand to challenge that guy who's claim he didn't believe.
:- k
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BrentA
Gym climber
estes park
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Nov 29, 2005 - 01:48am PT
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I have soloed since my first season of climbing. It just seemed natural. I'm now in season 13, and have to admit my soloing is waaaaaaaaaaaay toned down.
I have witnesses for very few of them. In the early years I ticked a few just a letter grade below my redpointing ability. I have never attempted to garner any acclaim for any of them. They are usually just great days, days I couldn't find a partner, days I wanted some mileage.
I think the thing that might gets a lot of peoples panties in a bunch is how hi profile MR is with all this, and seems to be trying to generate some equity from it...or something like that.
He isn't the first climber to be questioned...Tomo Cesen anyone?
As far as jealousy goes, I find Largo's commentary (on most subjects inside/outside of climbing) to be most balanced and brought from a place far removed from dragging a man down so he feels better.
I'm honestly not familiar with all the routes MR claims to have 3rd classed. I, like Randy L. will have to take him at his word. I won't lose any sleep either way.
I do find it odd that even with my limited knowledge of him I get the feeling he is redlining WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY more than Peter Croft or John Bachar. Those bad mofos are like watching water flow UP the rock. While only witnessed on videos I am at no point doubting that I am watching a rock master. Can the same be said for MR? I don't know.
Interesting also, that noone has grabbed onto the gentleman posting in this thread (giving his real name) that says he found no sign of MR on the traverse?
Well, I care neither way, and hope noone ever falls third classing. I remember the laminated pic on the Steck/Salathe...
"We miss you Derek"....
I don't want to miss anyone else.
Play safe.
Brent
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jeff benowitz
climber
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Nov 29, 2005 - 01:53am PT
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not to be repetitive, but,
"The ultimate solo is the one that you don't tell anyone about."
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mtwoodsonguide
Big Wall climber
San Diego
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Nov 29, 2005 - 02:16am PT
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All I know is he supposedly did the traverse 4 or 5 days before me and supposedly left souvoniers, panties, turtles or something to let me know he is to cool to sign the register. Apparently they blew away or they are very well hidden. If they are hidden, it's kind of like the tree falling in the forest, does it make noise.
edit
I was only on 5 peaks, defintetly the next person on a couple peaks, possibly/probabally the next on the others, there were no panties in the register, no metion of anyone finding panties, no panties on the summit, no sign of him
uh, no I'm not a guide and I think I'm going to change my screen name, any sujestions
edit again- dude my spelling is so bad, where is the spell check.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Nov 29, 2005 - 02:19am PT
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This thread reminds me of another disputed solo. Paul Bornes' onsight solo of the first seven pitches of Flying Buttress Direct (12a). This route had never been freeclimbed A3. Paul said he was a little high and thought he was on Steck Salathe. On the second pitch (11c/d) it was too late to retreat and he continued to the crux Guillotine Flake which he barely pulled off. By the time he reached the top of the Flying Buttress a snow storm moved in and he a nd another party were dropped supplies from a chopper to rap outta there. No one in the Valley believed him but he didn't care because for him it wasn't a solo since he rappelled (weighted the rope). At the time it was the hardest onsight solo in California 1989 - until now. BELEIVE IT OR NOT!
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mtwoodsonguide
Big Wall climber
San Diego
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Nov 29, 2005 - 02:27am PT
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If he really was there, if he really left them, and if he really wanted me to find them. I would have. Thats three questions which one was it
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Nov 29, 2005 - 02:36am PT
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That's awesome Al, thx for the insight.
K-man!!! Classic pointing this out...
"And Leavitt's quote is funny (ie, BS), considering how he put up a grand to challenge that guy who's claim he didn't believe."
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mtwoodsonguide
Big Wall climber
San Diego
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Nov 29, 2005 - 02:46am PT
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Locker,
unfortunatly I have no pictures from the entire month I spent in the Sierra this year. I do have receipt for a new 1.5" lcd screen for a Sony digital camera that I bought from a guy in India, arrived while I was gone, and I replaced when I got back. Now how could I have made that up.
I'll give you move by move beta for any route I've ever done.
Thounderbolt to Sill, although rarely done is nothing special and nothing to brag about. This is a guaranteed lose situation for me, but I was the next person on those peaks and if he left something in sight I would have found it.
Maybe he bailed off Pomoneum, thats still wicked fast, hell maybe he really did it, didn't leave anything in sight on the main peaks and I'm just making an ass out of my self.
That is funny about Leavitt, didn't he take some crud once for questioning someones onsite of a 12c at VRG several years ago.
You want proof Locker, I signed every register, drag your ass up there and read them, how's that for proof.
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mtwoodsonguide
Big Wall climber
San Diego
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Nov 29, 2005 - 03:04am PT
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Yeah, I know your just messing with me. In the overall scheme I don't care either but being the next one to summit those peaks puts me in a weird spot, maybe I should just keep my mouth shut, for all I know I am wrong, but my gut says bs just by looking at the time he's claiming. Should have scribled in the stupid summit register if you want to be believed, wait back up should first do it before you claim to do it.
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mtwoodsonguide
Big Wall climber
San Diego
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Nov 29, 2005 - 03:18am PT
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How about the first 10 routes in a perticular area
No, I don't guide, havn't written a guide, but am working on a guide, let's call it a work in progress.
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thesiger
Trad climber
A desert kingdom
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Nov 29, 2005 - 03:19am PT
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"So back at the base hanging out under Fred he commences to tell us how he just got back from the Brittish Isles claiming to have on-sighted, solo of course, all the Brits "headpoint" test piece routes claiming them as lite and the brits as weak!! Says the Irish climbing federation or club or something like that paid for him to develop some crags that they could'nt touch, all solo of course. "
I've not heard that MR has climbed in the UK. Seems unlikely. He has been to Ireland, not by invention though, I think. There's a surprisingly modest article about his trip over at www.theshortspan.com.
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Straight Outta Squamton
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Nov 29, 2005 - 03:25am PT
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I just got wind of a related thread at RC.n00b:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/topic/102078
Unfortunately, there have been some tales of outlandish sounding deeds in climbing, enough
that people are reluctant to take everything at face-value––just 'cause someone says it's so.
There have been a few notorious cases that fully deserved to be questioned,
and some have even been proved with little doubt to be total fabrications.
Off the top of my head, I can think of 2 or 3 characters in Nor Cal alone
who drew plenty of eyebrows in recent times with dubious "claims to fame".
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James
Social climber
My Subconcious
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2005 - 01:24pm PT
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BrentA brings up a good point with Tomo Cesen. Twight has an interesting interview with the man who claimed some pretty huge alpine link-ups. While Twight said that a number of his claims were suspect to say the least his overall belief was to give credibility to the climber.
Reardon's freesolos maybe be boisterous and there might not be total validity to all of his claims (or perhaps there is too much slander). Regardless, as a member of the climbing community he has to be taken for his word because when it comes down to it that's all you have.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Nov 29, 2005 - 01:25pm PT
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Yeah it's really me. Hey, I went soloing with Reardon August 2005 at Tahquitz. He smoked my ass (easy to do nowadays). Nevertheless, I'll give any of you cats free rock shoes for life if you can keep up with him - serious! Anyway, soloing the Equinox ain't that big a thing - I might even give it a go sometime soon.
Never climb without a rope - peace, jb
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yo
climber
NOT Fresno
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Nov 29, 2005 - 02:39pm PT
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Hey Bachar--
I got up The Gift last month with three hangs.
I wear 42s.
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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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Nov 29, 2005 - 03:15pm PT
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John, you did it right on!
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Northern Mexico
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Nov 29, 2005 - 05:34pm PT
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Bachar,
What did you guys solo on the Taqhuitz?
Juanito
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Northern Mexico
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Nov 29, 2005 - 06:06pm PT
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It was not even Bachar. The equinox comment was a dead give away!
Jaunito
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George_W_Bush
Big Wall climber
Crawford, TX
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Nov 29, 2005 - 06:54pm PT
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I put the SS on it and they confirmed that the post made by "bachar" was indeed, John Bachar. By the way, what would you expect John to say, "Yep, Reardon's a liar"? The dude is front and center in John's shoe advertising.
Hey Kofi, your organization sucks. If I could get the losers in the senate to go along with me I would withdraw from the worthless UN.
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Matt
Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
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Nov 29, 2005 - 08:21pm PT
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i've briefly met the guy, seems very nice. he went out of his way to give me some good encouragement, and then a little beta when i asked for it.
people should be worried about what they are climbing, not what other people are climbing. if the guy had photographic evidence of every exploit, people would say that he was climbing for the camera, rather than "climbing for himself". granted he has a website, but he doesn't solicit you to go read it, that's your choice.
i don't really buy the idea that people question him out of "jealousy", but i think his climbing clearly disturbs some people's comfort zone or their own reality in some way, and in response they do seem to lash out, almost defensively.
take for example, mr. BG, who wrote:
I will say, though, that I find the accomplishments of the hard sport climbers and boulders quite impressive. But not nearly as impressive as what takes place in the backcountry. And I find the stories of the alpine environment much more varied and adventurous. I happen to be really good friends with Chris Sharma, and watching him climb is sweet.
...
I don't have any problem with Reardon and his solos. And I won't have any problem when he dies from the way he solos. The problem I have is that he has to show off while on that kind of path. Putting women's panties and barbie dolls (was it?) in Sierra summit registers while soloing the Palisades traverse in a cotton t-shirt and blue jeans (something like that, at least)??? What the fu-ck? He's burly for not dying for that kind of stunt, but he's also proving that he's gonna kill himself unless he changes his approach. I wish he would shut the hell up and do it already. That way we can leave room in the mags for the climbers with a life wish.
...
No, not a contradiction. The kind of respect I have for sh#t going down in the backcountry is for stuff which is in and of itself amazing. I find leaving panties and ninja turtles in summit registers and showing up at the trailhead in a halucinatory state more pathetic than amazing. People who push their limits with ample experience and training behind them is awesome. But when I read the about the Reardon Palisade traverse I thought two things: he's a lucky SOB for getting away with that, and he sounds like a sport climber who got lucky. Now, without knowing the dude, he might be neither. However, that's the kind of impression he made on me.
ok, so based upon the logic you have demonstrated above, i can safely determine that you are some east-side bishop based sharma groupie that is just bitter about a celebrity climber that is not your buddy getting all the press, is that right? because apparently i don't need to know you personally, or even know any of your friends, to form a legit opinion of you, how you climb, what you stand for, and what you are thinking or what you are capable of...
and by the way, i have (many times in fact) felt great at the end of a climb, and then been near collapse from fatigue upon reaching the car. it has nothing at all to do w/ my competence or my climbing, it generally means i had a long day and i need a cold one.
as far as your wanking about what this guy (or anyone else) climbs, what the f*#k is it to you either way? he is not obligated to please you, and it's pretty disturbing that you would openly hope for something horrible to happen to anyone that has not wronged you in any way- maybe your pal chris can explain the concept of karma to you? i'd suggest that you get on w/ your life and go climbing, and avoid all future opportunities to chime in that "you hope so-and-so just dies sooner than later".
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mtwoodsonguide
Big Wall climber
San Diego
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Nov 29, 2005 - 09:42pm PT
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Free Acopa shoes for life. I'd rather have the 10G
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Nov 30, 2005 - 12:20am PT
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I was the one with dave that day at Tahquitz, when we met Mike. I heard him say everything dave is claiming. You know, Reardon seems like a nice enough guy, but man the spray comming out of his mouth was a bit HEAVY! specially for just meeting the gent. Was it true or false? I will not pass judgment, but Reardon's claims are what he said, just as dave described. I have no doubt that Mike climbs at a high standard. If you climb for yourself as he claims, then your actions will speak much louder than your spray. Word get's around in our tribe of climbers without the need of having to justify yourself. If Reardon continues to climb like he claims he does, we will know with no doubt if he is what he says he is. I personally would like to see that he is what he claims.
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thesiger
Trad climber
A desert kingdom
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Nov 30, 2005 - 01:22am PT
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"The point of my original post, which no one here except WBraun and Thesiger address, is that he claimed to onsight solo the Brits "headpoint" routes claiming them as lite and the brits as weak. "
I am certain that's BS. If he'd done that it would have been sprayed and analysed to death on the Brit forums like UKClimbing by now .. which it hasn't. And assuming he's talking about the gritstone stuff: these are some the most overcrowded crags on earth - you couldn't just show up, do all the hardest stuff around and wander off without someone seeing you.
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billygoat
climber
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Nov 30, 2005 - 02:29am PT
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Matt--
Wow dude, you're way the fu-ck off base with you're interpretation of what I wrote.
"so based upon the logic you have demonstrated above, i can safely determine that you are some east-side bishop based sharma groupie that is just bitter about a celebrity climber that is not your buddy getting all the press, is that right?"
Ah, no. No. And no. I've been friends with Chris for twelve years. I was the first person to ever take him climbing outside. I don't live on the east side. And I'm certainly not a groupie. Perhaps you should read everything I wrote. I said watching him climb is sweet, but I'm MORE IMPRESSED by what goes on in the backcountry. As in, alpine style. Got it?
"apparently i don't need to know you personally, or even know any of your friends, to form a legit opinion of you"
I don't know what you mean by "legit opinion" as an opinion is an opinion and nothing more. But I wonder: is there not a single public figure who you don't know that you don't have a negative opinion of. Take any one of a thousand politicians. I bet there's one you don't have very much respect for. Or how about an actor you don't like?
"and it's pretty disturbing that you would openly hope for something horrible to happen to anyone that has not wronged you in any way"
No. Again, no. What I'm saying is that his death would not matter much to me, because I don't have much respect for the way he goes about his soloing. I dislike his flamboyant style. I do not wish death upon him in anyway. I would rather see him change his style, sure, and if he doesn't and he dies I'm not going to miss him very much. I can see how you might find this harsh, but please don't put words in my mouth. I understand that my original post was a bit misleading, but I think I've said more than enough to clear this up.
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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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Nov 30, 2005 - 03:30pm PT
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Locker, great metaphor!
Makes you think about the guys who got out of the store without paying for something.
I call for more security dammit!
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westhegimp
Social climber
granada hills
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Nov 30, 2005 - 08:30pm PT
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"He onsight soloed the Brits "headpoint" routes claiming them as lite and the brits as weak." bahahahahahah ;)
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westhegimp
Social climber
granada hills
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Nov 30, 2005 - 09:03pm PT
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Sometimes as Im walking from one route to the next I will strike up a little conversation with other climbers I see, just to be friendly and not to seem like an arrogant prick. I might even ask, how was that route? Then sometime in the future I might do said route, or not.
How weird would it be to see that encounter all detailed months lator here on ST???
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Nov 30, 2005 - 09:18pm PT
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Juan, My Dad teaches math at LBSU (he just retired too). Hey Breedlove, is that the real Breedlove (old school C4 badass I knew)? Good to hear from you. My shoes won't help you but they're sure comfortable. Good to see you're still crankin'. Hey Watusi! What's up with these cats anyway? All kinds of hatin' going on and sh#t. Still playin' the bass?
About the shoe thing - I'll buy you whatever kind of shoes you want - don't have to be Acopas. I'll watch as you keep up with Reardon! This will be good. See you guys at the crags. Peace, jb
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Northern Mexico
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Nov 30, 2005 - 09:26pm PT
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What does he teach?
It might be Bachar? Might be Lois?
Juan
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TradIsGood
Trad climber
Gunks end of country
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Nov 30, 2005 - 09:39pm PT
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Raj, you aren't really suggesting that Jeff Batten = John Bachar, are you?
Wait, I get it avatars, right? JB=JB=LB. Ok. Well just to be sure, is bachar male or female?
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billygoat
climber
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Nov 30, 2005 - 09:41pm PT
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Locker,
yeah, well said.
Dingus,
thanks for the reality check.
Bachar,
I suppose I shouldn't try to speak for everyone, but it's not a hate thing. I'm just bummed that I'm not climbing...so when I'm stuck in town typing BS on a computer I like my opinion to be animated and pissy. That's all. I don't hate yer boy Reardon, just couldn't care less. Well, that's not true. The dude cranks, and that's rad. So in a minor way one's gotta respect that. Could ya convince him to stop leaving ninja turtles in the backcountry? Then I'll build a shrine in my bedroom and light candles for him every waking hour.
--Bill with the foul smelling beard.
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billygoat
climber
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Nov 30, 2005 - 09:43pm PT
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For what it's worth, I say it's Bachar. Check out the new Reardon article in R&I. Bachar is quoted word for word what he's said on this site. Could be a copycat, but what's the point in that.
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westhegimp
Social climber
granada hills
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That would have been nice, maybe next time. Hows your boy?
I could be wrong but the comment on the brits, could have been a joke.
& I think if someone inquires about a route, then doesnt immediately do that route, well obviously that someone is a liar and cant be trusted about anything, & should be banned from climbing.
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westhegimp
Social climber
granada hills
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Dave, I dont say/spray unless asked, and not to straingers. But sometimes I slip up.
Maybe your mutual friend asked? Whatever, I dont know.
What I think is, it must be tough having to worry if every thing I said, at the craig to some "cool" guys I met, will be reported next season on ST. It must suck having everything I did or said looked at as if it were a lie. I would think it would feel like being stabbed in the back by thoes "cool" guys. If you were the one everyone was talking about, hating on, how would you feel?
Wes
'
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westhegimp
Social climber
granada hills
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Peace
See you on the rocks.
Wes
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Lurking Fear
Trad climber
Bishop, California
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I don't know if this means much, but I've climbed Romantic Warrior with Peter, and I can say I was a little nervous belaying on a couple of the pitches. The climbing is fairly low angle, which means it's pretty tenuous. If MR climbed that route onsight, I'm personally very impressed. It's hard to fathom the ability of some climbers, but watching Peter climb the route with a rope, it's hard to imagine somebody walking up and soloing it. Of course, it's hard to imagine somebody soloing Astroman.
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Stainless
Social climber
LA, CA
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Dec 15, 2005 - 03:39pm PT
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Has Karl Rove been at work here? The buzz word on this thread, "jealous", seems a bit off to me. In a way it feels like it's planted and has gained momentum from reactionary thought, like "flip floper". Do you guys really think people are jealous of Reardon's exploits? Jealously comes, in general, from someone having something you want. Do you think all of those people crying foul are jealous that he ticked these things before they had a chance? I mean, I'm certainly by no means in on all the gossip in the climbing world but you don't hear many people saying "this summer I'm planning on soloing Romantic Warrior and the Pali Traverse" and then, "damn that guy, he stole my projects!". Zero, in fact, by my account. C'mon!
Reardon has a clear lack of proof for his exploits, leaving no doubt for them to be called into question. Most of them from his own doing, seemingly on purpose. A guy who cared about his exploits, you think, would go to some lengths to cover himself. For example, he'd have to be living in a cave not to realize his Palisades ascent would be scrutinized. Yet he "purposefully" leaves no evidence that can be traced, instead depositing a trail of panties that "blow away" and "hiding" vagisil or whatever. These are the actions of a man who doesn't care what others think of him.
The conundrum is the fact that he seems to care. He tells people that he doesn't, yet he does interviews with mags and reportedly sprays about his exploits to strangers at every opportunity (at least according to this thread and climbers we meet around from time to time), not to mentio runs his own web site. These are not isolated or inobvious incidents. All of this is well documented. He must care, at least to some degree.
So those of us interested in climbing history, like myself, have no option but to question. We have not been given one. It has nothing to do with "jealously" or any other personal attack on Michael Reardon. It's simply a matter of wanting to know what's been done in a sport we are passionate about.
I want to believe these exploits are true. I love it when people push themselves like Mike is doing (there seems to be no question to this aspect, he's definitely out there doing something). But the evidence at hand leaves me no choice but to question.
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426
Sport climber
Roun' Chatt
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Dec 15, 2005 - 05:01pm PT
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Croft describes how he tried the boulder problem three times. Makes sense why Dean was hesitant...
Anyone should be a little wary of 3rd classin' the Astro, but I'm curious where you got this?
IIRC there was a flap 'cuz Mr. Potter went right (the face var., 11a-ish) rather than the BP way.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Dec 15, 2005 - 09:37pm PT
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Stainless, nail on the head.
Did Houdini have a trick, or didn't he.
You want to believe he could pull that stuff,
but somewhere you wonder.
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Freak
Social climber
Yosemite
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Dec 15, 2005 - 09:42pm PT
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You jealous f*#ks!
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Stainless
Social climber
LA, CA
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Dec 16, 2005 - 10:43am PT
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Funny, Freak. Subtle.
Here's a piece I wrote in response to Mick Ryan's positive review of an issue of Rock and Ice on UK Climbing. Someone recently brought to my attention that fact that many of the photographs mentioned, including the Maximum Ghetto shot, have disappeared from Reardon's site. A quick perusal showed this to be true. Since the obvious way to silence critics would be to post another shot from the same ascent (certainly the photographer didn't just shoot one shot on the finishing jug),is this an attempt by Reardon to fuel his controversy even more, or is he trying to cover his tracks?
Mick,
About your review of the latest issue of R&I, c’mon, mate, is R&I paying you for this posting or are you just trying to stir things up with your glowing review of this drivel? I don't generally read this magazine, though I once did, but was quite amazed that after more than 20 years they still barely edit, much less fact check, their rag. It's truly unbelievable.
With only a cursory perusing I noticed many factual errors, most of which could be doubled checked with a 30 second Internet search. Yesterday, I was out bouldering and someone had recently spoken to Wills Young, who's apparently appalled at the inaccuracies about Lisa Rands (his wife). As a constant contributor, his comment that "all they needed to do was give me a call (sic)" doesn't seem like too much to ask for a magazine publishing a "collector's edition."
Other comments, like claiming Tobin Sorenson had made the first free ascent of Astroman could probably have been "fact checked" by taking a simple office poll.
On the Reardon piece, well, I'll admit to laughing but it had more to do with the journalistic incompetence of the author, R&I managing editor, Matt Samet. He claimed to be digging into the controversy about Reardon's ascents, yet instead of asking tough questions he dismisses the said "controversy" with anecdotal evidence that brings up more controversy itself.
For one, the article is titled "Mr. Producer," yet Reardon is not listed as a producer to any of the films he attests to producing except his own low-budget climbing videos. On the film that supposedly made him a fortune he is listed in the credits as an "extra". 6 producers are listed. He is not one of them. It doesn’t seem like a stretch on the part of the reader to desire an attempt to sort this out.
Samet brings up the fact that there aren't pics of Reardon soloing anything hard. This, however, is inaccurate. The weird thing is that all of the pics on hard routes are shot very tight; so close so that it could be almost anywhere. Yet, on easy routes that are well within Reardon’s limits he's quick (these are all posted on his own web site) to provide a full-scale shot. The one panoramic shot he provides soling a hard route is hanging from the finishing jug of Maximum Ghetto, where the same angle from any other move on the climb would be far more impressive. Yet Samet dare not delve, instead citing that Reardon is "in his element" soloing a 5.9 handcrack multiple times for photos.
He does use John Bachar to support his case that Reardon is legit. Yet the best Bachar can attest is to Reardon being “a strong little mutherf*cker” because he “nearly sent” a V8 in a day. However, this brings up more controversy because—at least I would think—not sending a V8 in a day might create more doubt, as this is nowhere near a world standard.
But Samet's largest gaff, unless it's done on purpose (highly unlikely given the subtlety this action would require) is to validate Reardon's soloing with an anecdote from a guy who found trinkets left for him on Dark Star in the Sierra. In this segment, the authenticator of all things rad concerning Mr. Reardon claims that he heard him up making coffee at 3:30 or so en route to a solo of 5 routes on Temple Crag. Yet he claims that Reardon left him a note on the summit of Dark Star saying, "waited for you guys up here". No mention at all is made to the fact that it might seem strange to wait for a party to climb 30 pitches that most likely isn't even awake yet. Not to mention he's got another 60 or so pitches--and some long descents--to solo himself that day. Yet when this "witness" states something like "I'm certain anything he says is true(sic)," Samet treats the statement as though God has spoken. It's so bizarre it's almost incomprehensible.
Since this is just some of what I found in about an hour of skimming over a couple of beers, my question is why would anyone every read this magazine, unless it was as some kind of joke?
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James
Social climber
My Subconcious
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2005 - 02:42pm PT
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426-
It's in an essay by Peter Croft entitled "Comic Book Flight Manual." It's published in the Yosemite book by Alex Huber and may have been published somewhere else.
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426
Sport climber
Another slopey nightmare, GA
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Dec 16, 2005 - 02:45pm PT
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thanks.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Dec 16, 2005 - 09:42pm PT
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Blow me down--Turbo Flange on the 3rd? That's about the most insecure climb I've ever done, and about the most unlikely free solo I can imagine. That's one I'd just about have to see to believe--but I wouldn't be able to watch. Gives me the willies just to think about MR soloing the thing.
JL
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Dec 16, 2005 - 10:21pm PT
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Thats for sure Largo, but not just Reardon, anybody soloing Turbo Flang would be gripping to watch.
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Agent Kream
climber
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Dec 17, 2005 - 12:24am PT
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If I were not in "Deep Cover" eating doughnuts, I might have something to add to this thread...
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Tan Slacks
Social climber
The back of a Helicopter
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Dec 17, 2005 - 07:16pm PT
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Kream,
Perhaps you could share some of your experiences here on ST. It might add some clarity to an often clouded discussion. If only there was someone who climbed with the aformentioned, and could speak accuratly about his "skills" as a soloist.
As "stainless" mentioned earlier. Bacher's comments in Samet's article are vague at best, and besides.. Is not Bacher on our subjects payroll?
Is there a duty to the climbing community?
What if "deep throat" had never spoken up.
History will judge you Kream.
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Agent Kream
climber
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Dec 17, 2005 - 08:30pm PT
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Dear Tan Slacks,
do you mind me calling you Dear???
Well on the Michael reardon issue. I can in fact add to it. Today, while climbing with Chosimba and D, we ran into MR and company... Well they were drinking coffee so I offered them some Krispy Kream Doughnuts... They declined... So that is new news concerning MR... Coffee maybe!!! Doughnuts NO!!!...
anything other than that I have no idea...
Agent Kream....over and out! Roger Wilco! Eee Aww Kee!!!
Aka locker
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
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Dec 17, 2005 - 10:00pm PT
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The Krispy Kreme shoppe on 23rd Street by my house went out of business while I was in Joshua Tree. I walked by the other day, and something didn't seem right. I was like :"Hey! Where'd the Krispy Kreme store go?" I thought I was losing it for a minute, but then I saw a vacant facade, with just the dirt shadow of a Krispy Kreme shaped sign.....Locker - do you think it was all just a front store for Agent Kream, and he's moved the whole op to Cali, so he can keep an eye on Reardon? Maybe ply him with donuts, so he gains weight and can't send? You know, next time he steps onto the wall and can't get his foot off the ground cause he's wearing cement shoes, I mean tummy....
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Oct 27, 2006 - 01:03pm PT
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Sounds like MR got a bunch of the most "respected climbers in the UK" panties all bunched up. Nice work MR.
Seriously though, anyone know what he sent over there?
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bones
Trad climber
San Diego
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Oct 27, 2006 - 01:29pm PT
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acopausa dot com /image.jsp?image=content/com.acopausa.photos.Photo/64/Pirate1-crop.jpg
MR soloing The Pirate at Suicide.
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immanti
climber
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Oct 27, 2006 - 05:43pm PT
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Yes, Reardon really did solo what he says he soloed. On top of which he is a very cool guy, considerate, smart, sensitive and giving. Reardon's positive and contagious energy has made a difference for many during tough times, mnyself included. The guy is legit.
Yes, that is John Bachar posting as bachar. John would not only never cover for a faker just because he was "in the ads", but he'd never be in the ads in the first place unless he was the real deal. JB sets a high bar.
No, he's not crazy or redlining, Reardon has been known to down-climb when he's recognized unacceptable risk. He has also soloed extensively and he is still around. Doubters need only hang out with him for a while, only fools (and his very few peers) would try to keep up.
No, I don't get why it bothers some that Reardon could prove to be such a superior climber and not fit their idea of a perfect personality. Must you cast doubt on every good thing that doesn't come from you just to make up for your own inadequacies?
Reasonable doubt would require reasonable evidence. Reasonable evidence has been provided and proof is availabe upon request. After that, only "haigh-n and nay-sayn" can inspire those who cast doubt.
Get out there and experience your own unbelievable climb, something so awesome you'll be the one trying to convince others.
In the meantime, I'll let the silence with which the doubters have responded to the challenge posted by John (free shoes for life to anyone who can keep up soloing with MR) speak for them.
Good climbing!
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mtwoodsonguide
Big Wall climber
San Diego
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Oct 27, 2006 - 09:56pm PT
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Don't bite, don't bite, ah f*#k it
He has been caught in a lie twice for sure that I know of
heres one-
Grimer on UKbouldering
his visit, and ticklist was pretty underwhelming. As regards to Neon Dust, he later told me he had only done the boulder problem start then traversed into Valkyrie. I explained to him that ND, E6 7a, was the route, but hey ho.
freesoloist.com "Hardest Single Pitch Onsight Solo #2: "Neon Dust" (E6 7a) - Froggatt, Eng"
Means this statement of yours "Yes, Reardon really did solo what he says he soloed." IS FALSE
(if your a dude that second sentence is pretty gay to, fyi)
Your Acopa address means you, like Bachar have a financial stake
the other lie-
He claims he never told anyone he was a lawyer and people in LA know he used to go around introducing himself as one. A month ago I heard a guy say "He's not a lawyer? He told me he was one."
It's not like I'm up in that scene or even know the guy, thats just what I've picked apart from afar.
and Still nobody of any credability has ever seen him solo anything hard.
edit- oh but he was seen yelling take all over the Vampire while wiring it and cleaning holds.
also about what he did climb over there. He toroped the crap out of a 12A and then soloed the 2nd asscent. the 3rd ascent was done onsite, yawn.
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pyro
Social climber
I'm not telling,
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Oct 27, 2006 - 10:04pm PT
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I watched him seen the video and yes i still consider him one of the Stoney n'lonely bouldering because he needs something to do kinda guy!
great job. M.R. Say Hi to Ry for me!
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Oct 28, 2006 - 12:17am PT
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Reardon is Real...
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immanti
climber
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Oct 28, 2006 - 12:29am PT
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"don't bite, don't bite"... that's exactly what I was thinking before posting on this subject, since Michael's climbing stands on its own merits. To me this is like arguing with someone who doesn't believe the earth is really round. You show them a picture of it from space and they say "But have YOU seen it?" Its a bit pointless, but here.
"he later told me he had only done the boulder problem start..."
Your evidence to prove he didn't do something is what you claim HE said to you (probably downplaying what he did)? Pretty sad.
"I explained to him that ND, E6 7a..."
Wow. Pretty arrogant. I wonder if you even climb at his level.
"It's not like I'm up in that scene or even know the guy, thats just what I've picked apart from afar."
Oh, sorry, I thought you knew what you were talking about there for a second, but I guess its all hearsay and supposition.
"if your a dude that second sentence is pretty gay to, fyi"
I am a "dude", and I'm confident enough in my heterosexuality not to have a problem recongizing sensitivity in any person, male or female. I'm also secure enough in it not to have a problem with other people's choices. If words or concepts like that irritate or threaten you, mybe you are not so secure in your own sexual orientation (sure sounds that way). But that's for you to figure out and for me not to care about.
"Your Acopa address means you, like Bachar have a financial stake"
Yes, John and I are part of Acopa. Now, THINK about it: Do you know how many 5.13 climbers are out there begging to be sponsored? What possible good would MR be to any company if he was just talk? Don't you think anyone would check it out before doing such a thing? We did, Bachar has climbed with him. We know him. That's why we know, and you don't.
You're welcome to find out for yourself and beyond any doubt. The offer is still out there, all you have to do is follow (so you can see what he does next!). You sound like a macho man, should be a walk in the park for you.
As I said, go do your own bad solos out there, then see if you even care whether someone else believes what you say or not.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Oct 28, 2006 - 01:43pm PT
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Mtwoodsonguide,
That guy misunderstood Reardon. He said he was a warrior not a lawyer. Sounds the kinda the same bit two totally different meanings.
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Elcapinyoazz
Mountain climber
Anchorage, Alaska
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Oct 28, 2006 - 03:03pm PT
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Hmm, all we hear from the Acopa crowd is some BS challenge to go follow the guy...as if my lame climbing abilities have anything to do with exaggeration or fabrication on the part of Mr. Reardon. And, on a similar note Bachar's $10k challenge back in the day was BS as well...yeah let's go follow someone on their home circuit that they have totally wired and know all the trick beta for.
Nobody doubts that the kid solos and solos at a high level. But many doubts exist as the the veracity of some of Mr. Reardon's claims. All the posturing by Acopa, Inc about "you can't follow him, so shut up" are diversionary at best. NO, I CANNOT FOLLOW THE KID, and WTF does that have to do with the price of tea in China?
Now that that's out of the way, lets get down to brass tacks.
Straight from Niall's mouth that Mr. Reardon told him (Niall, aka "Grimer") he did the start and traversed into Valkyrie yet claims to have done Neon Dust. Hard to spin that one, yet you try anyway. The start is not the route anymore than me soloing Astroman to the top of the enduro pitch and rapping would entitle me to claim to have "soloed Astroman".
Now, as to the lawyer bit, I have no idea whether he claimed to have passed the bar or have actually practised, but I do know that he claims to have a JD from Pepperdine in press releases. Is having a JD the same as being a lawyer? Not really, but it's almost splitting hairs. Yet it does lead us down the road of exaggeration or fabrication that seems to raise the doubts surrounding Mr. Reardon.
I'd be plenty impressed with the kid without the exaggerations, but with the swirl of doubt surrounding his claims I'm at the "who cares, just another blowhard wanker" stage.
Keep spinning though, maybe you'll get dizzy afterwhile.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Oct 28, 2006 - 03:46pm PT
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Michael Reardon sell shoes for Acopa. Publicity is good for business. Controversey sells. Integrety is NOT mandatory for profit (Look at all the money Girls Gone Wild has made...). Fact or fiction, he's already a "famous" person in our little climbing world. I hope Acopa makes alot of money from his spray; Bacher says the shoes are worthy, which is good enough for me. Acopa, as long as they have Reardon on board, will have to invest alot of time definding him, which , to me, would seem to get old. Michael is an amazing athlete, and an amazing climber. When you are a sponcered athlete, you probably should give a damn what other people think of your hard solo sends. When you are in the lime light, things are different, aren't they? I am glad that when I go climbing, I don't need proof, a photographer, a clean t-shirt, or get put under the microscope. Along with being a big shot, comes the poparrazzi; movie stars have been complaining about it for decades. Now we get to hear Michael and Acopa whine about it too. It's show time, the big top, and let the circus play it's full hand.....the climbing community will clean up the elephant dung after the show.
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immanti
climber
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Oct 28, 2006 - 03:56pm PT
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"What possible good would MR be to any company if he was just talk?"
"Umm..as an investor?" Nice try, but he is not an investor.
"Perhaps you'd care to fill us in on what free solos you've seen him do - which would be a first, because no one who's actually seen anything noteworthy has ever posted up; nor, to my knowledge, has there ever been a credible, disinterested witness of same. I would take Bachar's word for it, despite his having a vested interest, but all he's done is offer the benefit of the doubt - he apparently hasn't seen anything either."
I've seen enough to believe. But you apparently were too busy typing your nay-saying to read the post where Bachar says he has seen him and that he soloed with Reardon in Tahquitz. That's not just the benefit of the doubt, bro.
"No one saw Croft solo the Rostrum or Astroman the first few times he did those routes, or Bachar the Moratorium, but no one doubted it for a second."
Oh, some people did doubt it, just like you. They were all eventually proven wrong, just like you. It's just that there were no internet forums back then and no full-time "keyboard" climbers to get jealous about it and cast senseless doubt.
"And, on a similar note Bachar's $10k challenge back in the day was BS as well...yeah let's go follow someone on their home circuit that they have totally wired and know all the trick beta for."
BS? I'll tell you what, I'm sure neither Reardon nor Bachar would object to taking you up on the challenge at any crag you like, even the ones YOU have wired. Name the crag, you're on.
"yet we're being asked to believe that he's done things that represent a quantum leap beyond anything either one ever did."
Who asked you to do anything? I didn't. Believe, don't believe, that's your own thing. EDIT: No need to get nasty!
And like Forest Gump said, "that's all I have to say about that".
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Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
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Oct 28, 2006 - 06:23pm PT
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since Bachar and Jeff Lowe say the guy is real, i have to go with them.
if you doubters simply dont like the guy, just be honest about it.
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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Oct 29, 2006 - 01:47pm PT
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Gotta love your post, Gordo!
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Oct 29, 2006 - 06:39pm PT
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I really want to stay away for this trivia but a few of you are coming off a little unknowledgeable here. I know you are all passionate about your climbing and would want to know if someone is yanking your perception of things. Here are a few details
Mr. immanti (Dario) is the owner of the boot factory in Mexico that makes Acopa shoes. He is a friend of mine so you will have to just take my word on it that he is real. I don’t know how many languages he speaks but English is at least his second or third. Talking to him face to face you would think he’s educated at Harvard and has lived here all his life. Reardon is a friend of his and he is simply fed up listening to the slander. I’m sure anyone here would defend their friends in the same way.
I just met Michael Reardon this August for the first time. I was cornered pretty quickly by a guy who was extremely enthusiastic about what he does. I find myself talking (ok listening more) with a person who enjoys the people he meets climbing more so than the numbers you can get caught up in. Having met many strong climbing personalities over the years I can only smile at a zealous attitude and think back to similarities I have seen in others.
Then Michael proceeded to pull out a folder (of slides) with a 20-30 shot sequence of him soloing the pirate I just got goose bumps up and down my arms. I was disappointed with the single shot Climbing magazine chose later on because it could be thought of as questionable, maybe there’s intrigue in that. I was up at Suicide rock on Labor Day with my son. As we are walking past the Pirate I stop to scratch my head because in my mind it’s all hard to grasp. If I hadn’t seen the photos (slides) first hand I’d probably still just keep my mouth shut and wait for more information.
I haven’t climbed with Reardon but I hope to someday. I told him one thing for sure when we do we’re going to use a rope. When he said he would put me on a leash I just laughed without it bruising my ego.
Mike Graham
Edited to clarify photos were slides
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powderdave
climber
Salt Lake City, Utah
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Oct 29, 2006 - 07:45pm PT
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Quick note:
Met MR at the HERA Climb For Life fundraiser in Salt Lake City last month, where we both volunteered. He arrived with his wife, daughter, glam-rock hairdo, and big reputation. He was gushing with enthusiasm and very approachable. Seeing him interact with everyone (newbies to pros) and his wife and daughter (who he obviously adores), gave an insight into the who MR really is. I climbed with him only one day and indoors (for what its worth he was easily onsighting 5.12 on plastic, in jeans of course).
Bottom line: If he hasn't injured you personally, why the f*#k do you all care so much? Get a life.
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HighGravity
climber
Riverside, CA
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Oct 29, 2006 - 07:54pm PT
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Ok, this cracks me up. I can't believe how worked up people get over this. Who the F cares? If MR does it and you see it, then you know. If he doesn't do it in front of your face then you can doubt away. But once again, who the F cares? I can't believe all the people who get so worked up over this. I met MR in Idyllwild a few months back and we chatted for a bit. There was no spray involved and he seemed like a cool guy. I'm not going to spend all night sitting up questioning his abilities, I'm going to sleep so I can get out and climb.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 29, 2006 - 08:44pm PT
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There is some unpleasantness on this thread, some speculation, and some unnecessary personal remarks. Anonymity has its price.
Free soloing is a very personal thing, and a pure form of climbing. It has a long and honourable history. We all solo at some level or other. Most of us modest climbs, well within our abilities, some at a high level. Very often there are no or few witnesses, and we don't tell many others. Those who solo even moderately difficult climbs soon learn that it's something you only do for yourself.
Do we really want a climbing world where:
1. Climbers (soloists) are NOT taken at their word?
2. Anyone claiming a significant climb must be accompanied by independent witnesses if not a film crew, to "prove" the ascent?
This seems the logical consequence of what the sceptics are saying. It is also the opposite of our community's traditions and values. Has climbing changed so much?
"Extraordinary claims require extraordinary proof" (Sagan), and sometimes exceptions have to be made. But not many. Is this really one of them?
The logical result is that doubted soloists would be goaded into "proving" themselves, by doing or repeating their climbs, with witnesses. And some of them would die because of it.
In the interests of full disclosure, I met Michael Reardon at the trade show in August, and he spoke at the Squamish Climbers Festival in September. He waived his fee, which was a great help. I've only seen Michael climb on slides and video. He's a lively character - no need to put a quarter in him. Whatever his style, there's no doubt that he's done some impressive climbs and solos. He may have a different style and personality than some other well known soloists - but I wouldn't confuse style with substance.
Anders
ps I also met Steve Karafa, Dario, and Anastasia at the trade show. We're acquaintances, anyway. I've known John, on and off, since 1976. And I'm hoping soon to buy some Acopa shoes, as they seem to fit my skinny feet.
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 30, 2006 - 12:13am PT
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Good grief Joe, what's happened to you?
Just please let it go, just let it go .......
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 30, 2006 - 12:57am PT
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jg: I can't speak from personal experience to what Michael has or hasn't done. Apart from Joshua Tree, I'm not familiar with the areas he mostly climbs at, except from pictures. I don't know him well, and haven't climbed with him. Still, even his critics seem to agree that he's done some amazing climbing, whatever their views about his style and personality, or the details.
A few people may have soloed well over 100 pitches in a day at Squamish. Certainly Peter, Hamish and perhaps others used to do solo sprees which involved a lot of climbing in a day, though I doubt they kept count. Some fairly hard, some moderate, but a lot. Two climbers once did the Grand Wall, to Bellygood, five times in a day - 60 pitches, plus descents. Someone did a dozen roped routes on our Apron in a day, with pre-fixed rappel - about 70 pitches. Not El Cap twice in 24 hours, or 160 pitches solo, but quite a lot, and perhaps getting in the ballpark.
Someone who can solo 5.12, and knows the area/routes, might climb 160 routes in a long day at Joshua Tree. There are people who solo there who would know, and it may depend a lot on planning - difficulty, location, descents, etc.
If I understand rightly - correct me if I'm wrong - Michael can lead to somewhere in the "easy" 5.13 range. There are witnesses to his soloing 5.12, and many witnesses to his soloing "easier" climbs. (Soloists often don't have witnesses, may not want them, and can't always hang around, hoping that they'll be seen.) His performance may not always be consistent, but we all have less-good days. The kind that are lethal to soloists. If Romantic Warrior was the only 5.12c he'd ever soloed, or he'd never climbed 5.12c at all, or soloed harder than 5.11, that might make it an extraordinary claim. Or if there was evidence that he wasn't there that day, or didn't know the route, or something of the sort. That doesn't seem to be the case.
For the most part, the evidence that Michael didn't do what says seems circumstantial, or ad hominem. And no true story is perfectly consistent.
Climbers love to gossip, and can be merciless critics. For doubters, I suggest that Michael be given the benefit of your doubts. Take him at his word, as we should. Time will tell soon enough. It always does. That's how we do things in our community.
Anders
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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Oct 30, 2006 - 02:19am PT
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I have actually climbed, or more accurately bouldered, with Mike Reardon in Joshua Tree, NP. The guy is a very intense and competitive individual--but at the same time a really friendly person. As best as I can recall, he managed to repeat all the boulder problems that I took him to that day, perhaps including things that were V8 or so. So, do I think he has truly soloed all the routes he has claimed to have? How would I know? All I know from my personal experience is that Mike is a pretty strong boulderer and a really fun guy to be around.
Curt
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Oct 30, 2006 - 10:42am PT
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"...which neither Croft or Schultz could do, in their prime, roped-up..."
I don't think this reference is exactly fair to Peter or Dave or MR, for that matter. That was a number of years ago PC and DS were up there. I don't think the route had seen much traffic by then and the sort of licheny gritty quality of the dihedral has been mentioned. More parties try and some do the route now days. Could it be getting cleaned up a bit? Heck, I saw a party of 3 guys from up Yosemite way do the thing in a few hours summer before last. They cruised, topped out and were down for lunch.
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Degaine
climber
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Oct 30, 2006 - 11:21am PT
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As other posters have mentioned, Michael is a nice guy oozes enthusiasm when climbing with him. Never found him to be arrogant at all. Always seemed just as excited to see friends enjoy climbing as when sending his own projects.
I’ll take his word for the sends. People who don’t like him won’t. Oh well, does not seem to stop Michael from having a good time. No amount of proof seems to be enough for some. When there are photos, they are of course touched up and edited, when someone formerly considered credible vouches for Michael, that person is suddenly no longer credible.
There are a few photo TRs up on the web of unknown climbers cruising (relatively) up Romantic Warrior.
Anyway, just one question for jghedge: is it hard to climb nowadays with that huge chip on your shoulder?
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Oct 30, 2006 - 11:48am PT
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It's interesting that this thread resurfaced. Just last week I was thinking that it had been
a while since any Reardon discussion. In any event, one of my favorite quotes is:
"The only thing worse than people talking about you...is people not talking about you"...
Since Michael clearly likes all the attention he gets, I'm sure he can handle a bit of scutiny.
In fact, it would be unreasonable for him knott to expect it, considering some of his claims.
One thing I have noticed in all these threads is that I keep reading words to the effect of:
"Who gives a fuçk?" or "who cares?"
Invariably these comments are from the pro-Reardon camp, and do knott seem impartial.
Anyway, carry on, and rest assured that MR is reading these threads, and enjoying
them as much as the rest of us. I bet he himself very much "gives a fuçk"...
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Nov 12, 2010 - 06:38pm PT
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Bump for this comment by Hardmann Knott:
"I'd pay big bucks to see an unedited video of him soloing Moonbeam Crack..."
You know, when that 280 routes in a day or whatever went down, I looked at the list and thought the exact same thing. But let's clarify what "big bucks" is, and does that offer stand for someone other that MR hucking a solo lap on it? Not a "name" guy like Honnold or some sponsored wonderkid, but a regular guy?
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Nov 12, 2010 - 11:39pm PT
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Too late now Will. Reardon passed away some time ago. What an amazing bunch of great climbing all stars and old timers this thread (some now gone as well) has seen. Jeff Lowe, John Long, Mike Graham, Werner Braun, Curt Shannon, Anders, Kris Solem, John Bachar, etc etc
wow
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ec
climber
ca
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Nov 13, 2010 - 12:14am PT
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'Too bad that a proud free solo ascent like this couldn't have been a more personal achievement without the tainting of the hype/media. Sort of like the first ascent...
 ec
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Anastasia
climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
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Nov 13, 2010 - 01:14am PT
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He was a great guy and all the drama means little. He is gone... Dang it, he promised to take me climbing and I'm holding him to it. When we meet again my dear Reardon.
No matter what all of you feel, believe, etc... Please respect the dead. Anything less hurts those of us who are left behind.
AFS
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Bump for the thread that includes JB's first ST post...
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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nice bump. brings back a lot of memories.
Anders doesn't have a surname ?
Tami, that puts him in a league of his own.
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Rock!...oopsie.
Trad climber
the pitch above you
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In retrospect ya can't help but smile when Juan immediately calls him out as a troll... place isn't the same without either of them.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Have you ever soloed anything?(Not a jab) LOL, Asked of the Iron Monkey! Bachar had a good story on ST of setting up across from the Rostrum to take some pics of Dave Schultz soloing it, and Croft comes along free soloing oblivious to the other drama. Those would be some pics to post to this thread.
Anders doesn't have a surname ? Anders don't need no stinkeen surname. Nor does Tami....yuk, snort....
Ahh hoo man, lots of folks who posted on this thread are here no more. They helped make the world what it was. Good folks...I won't even bag on Jeff Batten...(Juan De Fuca)...too funny. Thanks all, Jeff too. We'll all get there as well too soon Jeff, no need to rush it.
From Michael Reardons site: typical MR. Under Most recent news (probably spoken 100 miles an hour): 6.15.07: To say it's been busy is an understatement. Climbing with Bachar at Mammoth, soloing two miles per day on three occasions at Tahquitz, onsight solo of a two-pitch 5.12a at Suicide Rocks, speaking to a Fortune 100 Company in Ohio, and buildering in Los Angeles all made for a busy month. But today - I'm on a plane to Ireland and will be there for a month. Stay tuned to the blog, this site, and youtube should have the latest video by tomorrow. That was all. Except for one last thing:
KEEP STOKE ALIVE!
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originalpmac
Mountain climber
Timbers of Fennario
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Jan 21, 2018 - 09:20am PT
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Ju st read this whole thread. Good stuff. That Billygoat sure is a punter though.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jan 21, 2018 - 10:29am PT
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