The Valley According to Sally-Moser, that is! Yos Interviews

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Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 31, 2010 - 04:55pm PT
Rock and Ice #24 March/April 1988 has a series of interviews with the Yosemite greats while they were still around! Bravo Sally! And thanks again to Jim Phillips!

Glen Denny, belayed by Royal Robbins, leading the third pitch(A5) on an early reconnaissance of the North America Wall. Tom Frost photo.


















Even the back cover is classic! But what's up with the white wine?!?
sethsquatch76

Trad climber
Joshua tree ca
Jul 31, 2010 - 05:03pm PT
Back cover is outstanding!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jul 31, 2010 - 06:24pm PT
'while they were still around'

huh?

last I checked Denny, Robbins and Frost were still kicking it large?
Mimi

climber
Jul 31, 2010 - 06:29pm PT
Pratt and Harding are the two missing players.
BooDawg

Social climber
Paradise Island
Jul 31, 2010 - 06:38pm PT
Another GREAT posting, Steve! Keep 'em coming!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2010 - 11:29am PT
No point in stopping now! LOL
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Aug 1, 2010 - 01:18pm PT
Any reason these won't enlarge like most linked pics? I'm not THAT old, and can barely read the text...and then only with a serious squint...you'd almost think I was smokin' some of that mary ju wanner the way I'm lookin' all squinty eyed over here.

Hey Steve, how about a photo of your library that all this good stuff is coming from? Does it compare to Gordon's awesome collection?"
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2010 - 01:38pm PT
Best that I can do with acceptable file size.

Once the collection gets organized I can give you a peek.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 4, 2010 - 10:55pm PT
I just added a missing Pratt page.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 7, 2010 - 01:29pm PT
Valley Bump!
Rockin' Gal

Trad climber
Boulder
Aug 7, 2010 - 08:09pm PT
That took me back a few years to the Golden Age of Rock & Ice! Thanks for the memories. Harding interviewed himself, never one to follow the rules. I'm sitting in the rain at Squamish, waiting for the weather to clear....
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2010 - 10:43am PT
RG- At least you have a great brewpub to dry off your clothes! LOL

I hope that it clears off for you. If not, Vancouver has plenty of fun to be had. You could help Anders organize his slides!?!
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Aug 8, 2010 - 11:49am PT
That was one of the best R&I issues ever. Largely due to Sally's excellent article.
Great post up Steve.
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
Aug 8, 2010 - 11:55am PT
what i've gotten from sally's writings is confirmation that california granite is the best climbing rock in the world. take your limestone and mix it with muriatic acid.
Juanito

Social climber
San Diego, CA
Aug 8, 2010 - 03:16pm PT
Even the back cover is classic! But what's up with the white wine?!?
That's probably what Harding was drinking at the time. As I recall, Crazy Earl Redfern shot that photo back when he was repping Bluewater Ropes and living in Mariposa. My guess was that the two were drinking in the valley and Earl had the hair-brained idea to use the shot for an ad.

JM
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2010 - 11:34am PT
Moser Bump!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2010 - 01:52pm PT
Just heard from the lady herself off forum. She was amused to see her work pop up again!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 5, 2010 - 11:28pm PT
I just bumped up the resolution and rescanned this one. Too good to squint over! LOL
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 12, 2010 - 07:20pm PT
Small world! Wisconsin...amazing!
Rockin' Gal

Trad climber
Boulder
Sep 14, 2010 - 03:07pm PT
And here I thought I was the only climber from Brookfield!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 15, 2010 - 08:23pm PT
Devil's Lake the first climbing area for both of you cheeseheads?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2010 - 12:53pm PT
A cheesy silence ensued...Bump!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2010 - 02:14pm PT
Thanks Walleye!

A little more Moser for y'all from Rocks and Roses (1990), Mikel Vause's excellent collection of essays by women climbers.




Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2010 - 01:32pm PT
Glimpse of the Moser Bump!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Oct 30, 2010 - 04:52pm PT
Great second article, Steve. Thanks for scanning and posting it.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2010 - 12:09pm PT
Moser without the Charlet Bump!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2010 - 01:26pm PT
Bump!
Rockin' Gal

Trad climber
Boulder
Nov 28, 2010 - 08:42pm PT
I have a couple other chapters to add to that.
Steve, you are indeed the historian extraordinaire!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2010 - 10:32pm PT
Sally- If you don't mind the exposure please step on up and post away! Your writing is always a pleasure to read!
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Nov 28, 2010 - 11:26pm PT
Yes Sally, great stuff, please sit down by the fire here.

Here, let me grab you a rock to sit on. There..that's better. Would you like a little wine...?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2012 - 03:20pm PT
Gal Bump...
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jun 10, 2012 - 09:05pm PT
needed bumpage
Rockin' Gal

Trad climber
Boulder
Jun 11, 2012 - 10:01pm PT
Thanks for the kind words. You've inspired me to post a trip report (The Broken Glass, A Tale of Two Climbers) that I wrote a couple years ago upon returning from the City of Rocks. It's the first piece I've written for myself in a long time. I originally called it "An Exorcism" and that title still rings true for me. It's about the things we do and put up with to go climbing....
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Jun 11, 2012 - 10:29pm PT
Welcome Sally.


Gotta tell ya this little poem you wrote has stuck with me and influenced me...


If lava is the blood of the earth
Rock then is the flesh
Not to be bludgeouned into surrender
but caressed


What was your thought with this? Poetic reflection on rock in general, or a statement about clean climbing compared to piton craft?

I took it as both.

For what it is worth, I was reciting that poem not but a couple weeks ago when we were on Freak Show in Kings Canyon doing a 'clean' ascent of that route.

Welcome to the Taco campfire.
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Jun 13, 2012 - 11:18pm PT
Bump for some very good writing.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 24, 2012 - 11:40am PT
Cathartic bump...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2014 - 12:47pm PT
Rockin' Gal Bump...
sheepdog

Trad climber
just over the hill
Jun 8, 2014 - 04:28pm PT
When my GF (now wife of near 30 years) and I were moving from Colorado to the Bay Area, Sally gave us this introduction to Valley climbing; I used this thoughtful gift and the yellow Myer's topos as my "go to" guides for our weekend trips to the valley. The information in this guide has aged well, as I'm sure the author has!

Reprinted without permission...

Spanky

Social climber
boulder co
Jun 8, 2014 - 07:00pm PT
cool article thanks for posting!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2016 - 01:47pm PT
Tis the season Bump...
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jul 21, 2018 - 06:37pm PT
best bump, go Sally go!
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