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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 19, 2010 - 12:47am PT
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Just took a poor man's trip to Bart Dome (borrowed gas money and took food from home...)in Domelands Wilderness. Anyone else have pictures , info, or stories of the awesome Bart Dome...
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jul 19, 2010 - 01:05am PT
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Looks like you were packin' light
I see no keystone.
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ec
climber
ca
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Jul 19, 2010 - 01:17am PT
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whaddja climb there?
I haven't been back since I climbed 'Bite the Bullet.' That's eons ago.
 ec
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2010 - 02:47am PT
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Eddy;...we saw your route "Bite the Bullet"...it looks awesome;..what a score for you...all the routes look fantastic. We did 4 routes;...Under the Rainbow, Vernacular, Black Bart, and Surf City.....Rhesa Ashbacher, Wendall Smith (TGT) , Tucker Tech, Greg Epperson......we had a great time.....I'm pooped out though....I'm not in very good shape, and it was a trip for someone in shape....so I'm pretty sore from it all...
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2010 - 03:59am PT
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Rhesa Ashbacher working her magic on Black Bart...
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ec
climber
ca
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Jul 19, 2010 - 04:04am PT
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Did you check out the cliffs to the nw? Those are the 'Banded Cliffs' and there's only one route on them. If I recall, 5 pitches...
ec
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2010 - 04:09am PT
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Alot of rock out there, Eddy;....all guarded by the fact that you have to walk a few hours to get to it........
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 19, 2010 - 04:55am PT
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Wow , looks like some cool rock. Lots of features.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2010 - 08:25am PT
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Rhesa Ashbacher and TGT........two very dangerous outlaws....
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Jul 19, 2010 - 09:02am PT
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Todd,
Very cool looking place!
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2010 - 11:10am PT
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Tucker Tech; 3 days in the wilderness;...10 granola bars, 33 beers, and a flask of Scotch.......
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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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Jul 19, 2010 - 11:12am PT
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Todd, I have always wanted to climb that rock, nice post. How many pitches?
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2010 - 11:16am PT
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Most of the climbs have one slabby pitch, then two steep pitches, then 2 more slabby/knobby pitches.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Jul 19, 2010 - 11:33am PT
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Great trip, good friends,
Just wish it had been 20 degrees cooler and I was 20 pounds lighter.
I'll post more photos soon.
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Jul 19, 2010 - 11:38am PT
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And a fun walk off...
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jul 19, 2010 - 11:43am PT
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Been dying to get out there forever but usually hard to convince people to go.
What did you do for water this late in the season? I know most people like to go around Memorial Day just for that reason.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Jul 19, 2010 - 12:18pm PT
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It's been a big year for water.
The Spring at the head of Manter Creek is still flowing well.
There may be water till mid August this year.
Tucker took a bath in it so there may be a contamination issue.
Bring a filter.;-)
The spring about a 1/4 mile from Bart was still flowing as well, but that probably won't last very much longer.
There's been no traffic back there at all recently. I think a lot of people have been put off by the destruction from the fire about ten years ago. The trail past Manter meadow has not been maintained and has quite a few large snags you have to walk around.
The base of Bart and the head of Manter creek were spared most of the destruction. The fire skipped around quite a bit.
The slopes below the Fist and The Knuckles though are now denuded, but the walk into Manter Meadow was untouched.
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go-B
climber
In God We Trust
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Jul 19, 2010 - 12:35pm PT
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Doh, that's nice!
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2010 - 01:18pm PT
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TGT;..the climbing machine
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Jul 19, 2010 - 01:29pm PT
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Looks like a killer trip you guys! did you see any fires or smoke on sunday? Bridwell and I were coming home from the east side and in the southern Domes looked like BIG fire going on. Next time you go back there, I want in on the trip.... Tucker can haul in our beer and booze.
Peace
Edit: Wendell, that looks like yer Sunday best shirt in the last shots!
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2010 - 01:45pm PT
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Jul 19, 2010 - 02:41pm PT
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Ron,
Didn't see or smell any smoke, but that does explain the borate bomber that buzzed us on its way back to Bakersfield. Had us wondering what was up.
No Sunday best. Old dress shirts are still the best hot weather rig.
I'm buying a bottle with a lock on top for the Scotch next time, but Tucker did make sure I didn't have to carry any back out.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2010 - 03:32pm PT
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jul 19, 2010 - 03:44pm PT
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Good stuff, gang!
Fun looking trip.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Jul 19, 2010 - 05:35pm PT
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It was blazin up there too.
I think I burned the soles of my feet. They still hurt a little.
I'm suprised nobody's shoes delamed.
Epperson had to listen to my whinin and dancin all the way up the climb we did the second day for Tuckers fashion model shoot.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2010 - 05:43pm PT
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TGT just has that style about him;.....the button shirt, the cigar, the scotch......a modern silver James Bond sort.....
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2010 - 05:58pm PT
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Apologies to those who just ate lunch...but a trip report without a picture of Tucker's feet would be incomplete...
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Jul 19, 2010 - 06:10pm PT
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Is that shot before or after the bath in the stream?
Peace
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Jul 19, 2010 - 08:14pm PT
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Nice trip.
I followed Greg Vernon on Under the Rainbow one day. A lot of pitches, 7 or 8? I like the Southern Sierra a lot.
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Loomis
climber
San Francisco
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Jul 19, 2010 - 08:55pm PT
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It had to be way hot there, did you guys do "over the rainbow" the crack/seam that goes over the roof?
Great photo's guys!
Wish I could have been there to give you the grand tour of the more obscure places around Bart, lots to see and do.
Scott.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Jul 19, 2010 - 10:47pm PT
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jul 19, 2010 - 11:52pm PT
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Nice! Thanks for the report. Looks like fun.
Zander
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F10
Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
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Jul 20, 2010 - 12:46am PT
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Looks like a good time, sorry I missed it, you probably won't be back since those routes are "checked off"
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2010 - 12:59am PT
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Maybe next year, James;.....but I need to excercise more than once a year.....it's not a trip for an out of shape, over-weight 55 year old.........(But I went anyways...)......You would have had a great time;...and you are fit, so you could have carried in more beer;..Tucker ran half way into day 2.....next time.....
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2010 - 01:04am PT
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Breakfast , lunch and dinner...
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F10
Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
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Jul 20, 2010 - 01:09am PT
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It was time for my annual physical Todd, pants around my ankles, probably as much fun as hiking into Bart Dome,
But that's why I always have a lady doc,
It's time for Wendall to move to JT, he is the only one that mentioned the heat
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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Jul 20, 2010 - 02:33am PT
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Wow, Mr. Gordon...that looks really fun! Wish I was there...
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
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Jul 20, 2010 - 04:11am PT
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Sick thread . " Here's a link to the topo, if anyone's interested . " Oh mama !
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Jul 20, 2010 - 11:55am PT
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That's lieutenant colonel to you Swelly
Better say yes ma'am , no ma'am or she'll toss you in the brig
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Jul 20, 2010 - 12:07pm PT
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I like the little bits of wisdom in the guidebook, like this classic, speaking of an area near Bart Dome..."While many rock formations are found here, the rock is of poor quality, and is best enjoyed from a distance. Never chip holds in rock - this impact is permanent"
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2010 - 12:35pm PT
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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Jul 20, 2010 - 11:10pm PT
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Thanks for one terrific Thread Gordo. Miss all Yo ! Thought Ressa was off to the orient ? What happened ? TGT and Tucker hope to see you guys soon miss you majorly. Hi Eppie :D
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Jul 20, 2010 - 11:14pm PT
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She's leaving for a two year stint in Okinawa tomorrow.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jul 20, 2010 - 11:40pm PT
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I think that chick could prolly kick my ass....she is hot though...Bring it!!!!
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Mary Moser
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Jul 21, 2010 - 10:14am PT
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Looks like a great trip, Todd. Tony and I had planned to climb there years ago, but never quite got around to it. How long did it take to hike in?
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Jul 21, 2010 - 10:17am PT
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The hike in is only a few hours. The killer is the drive down Cherry Hill Road. It takes 7 hours from LA to the trailhead.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Jul 21, 2010 - 10:22am PT
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It's about a 3-4 hr hike into the spring where you will want to camp. The spring is about a mile from the base of Bart.
There's a great campsite on top of a knoll about 100 yards and 50 feet up on the left of the lower spring. There are also good flat campsites a bit further up where the bart / Woodpecker meadows trails fork at the uppper spring.
We started climbing a bit after 1:00 the first day. The face does go into the shade a bit about 3:00-4:00 in the afternoon.
The drive is 5 hrs from the SGV
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tinker b
climber
the commonwealth
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Jul 24, 2010 - 08:57pm PT
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now i know how insulted i should have been when someone said my feet looked like tuckers...
glad your freedom brought you more than fridge and desk cleaning. thanks for the pictures :)
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Not my photo - found on internet.
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Brian
climber
California
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Dec 10, 2011 - 12:18am PT
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Climbing thread bump.
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surfstar
climber
Santa Barbara, CA
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^^holy sh#t - that looks just like mine
Todd's thread was inspiring, but I only hiked out a six-pack.
Made it a spicy lead for me
Downclimb + rapps was also an adventure
almost dry puddle was only water for 2 hours
but still a welcome sight
Very cool place to visit. Memorial weekend was my first time out there.
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Looks like you guys had fun, Todd. Tucker's looking rather svelte.
TY
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Surfstar, ha! Love the rap. It's an adventurous walk off, no?
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ruppell
climber
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I can't believe no one has mentioned the Mike Mason Memorial Route yet. One of the best and most unique slabs of it's grade that I've climbed anywhere.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Photos, Ruppell?
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ruppell
climber
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Photos, Ruppell?
Working on it. I never take any but luckily my fiancee does. It's a vertical quartz dike that has these giant solution pocket. I mean giant. Like the cruxes of this "slab" climb are 15 to 20 feet of dead vertical. I'll post some soon. Can't promise there any good but I'll do my best.
Like I said it's rad.
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ruppell
climber
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Just found one more.
We did it July of 2010 and there was just enough water. We camped about a mile from the dome at the last available water. A small creek that was barely flowing. It's the only time I've ever actually felt like a needed to filter water in the Sierras.
On the day we did MMMR we forgot the camera in the pack at the base. It's a 100 feet or so of fourth class to get to the first belay. I decided to be a nice guy and run down to get it. I stepped off the slab onto some pine needles that where hiding some more slab. Feet go straight out and I brace for impact with my right hand. My index, middle, and ring fingers get torqued sideways really hard. I grab the camera and put on my tough guy face. After all even if there broken I'm still doing this rad looking line. I rope up and start climbing as the throbbing grows more and more intense. By the time we finish the climb I can't even close my hand. It ended up just being a really bad sprain in all three fingers. Hope you enjoy the photos. lol
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Nice pics
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Surfstar....good to see you climbing on some run face instead of that crack/sport climb stuff(: TL
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surfstar
climber
Santa Barbara, CA
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Tony - yeah it was like the dome was plucked right out of the Meadows! Good mental training.
ruppell - nice! We were interested in the MMMR too, but will save it for another time -- and I'd hope the bolts aren't all leapers as the crux is above my grade.
More route beta would be welcome, but then again, we don't need more people knowing about this place ;)
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franzr
Trad climber
Lancaster, CA
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Spent two days there back in 2007. Climbed Leona, The Vernacular, and Mark Mason Memorial. Can't help but feel relaxed out there, in the quiet, far from anyone.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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What's the rating of Mark Mason Memorial?
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franzr
Trad climber
Lancaster, CA
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Guidebook says 10c, 4 pitches are 9-,9,10a,10c. Mostly bolts at the cruxes if I remember right, very fun crystal pinching!
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ruppell
climber
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surfstar
That photo is of the crux pitch anchor. It's the only thing in the route that doesn't have better bolts. The cruxes are vertical face climbing not slab and they are pretty well bolted. You can't quite yard through but it's safe. The first two slab pitches are cruiser. The last two pitches are money. We did the walk off/small rap as I'm a beg fan of actually going to the top of things you climb. You can rap it with doubles though. I thought the grade was spot on. Keep in mind though I could only really use my left hand. Basically get on it. You will have a blast.
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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bumping a great thread
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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Thanks for the bump. I'm enjoying these old threads. I remember being out there when that Manter Meadow fire started. We had to hustle to get out of there before being trapped.
Took forever to drive out due to waiting on fire crews coming up.
I always felt the domelands were the undiscovered jewel of Kali.
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Gary
Social climber
Where in the hell is Major Kong?
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I remember being out there when that Manter Meadow fire started.
That must've been a nasty experience. Although it did make a nice wildflower bloom the next year.
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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If memory serves they were landing foot fire crews at Big Meadow with Helicopters at the same time they were bringing crews up the forest service road
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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May 15, 2019 - 12:28pm PT
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still hunting domes
would packing in to Bart dome early June this year be a good idea. probably lots of water. Too much snow?
suggestions for routes 9 or under? Is aquaman actually a chimney?
domelands guide shows you rap, but sounds like its a nice walk off.
any new stuff to share?
thx southern sierra folks. :)
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