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SGropp
Mountain climber
Eastsound, Wa
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Oct 12, 2016 - 07:19pm PT
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Decorative and structural bands to reinforce a heavily checked log post.
Hot forged and formed from 3/8'x 1 1/2'' steel flat bar. The finished length of each band was about 96''
They look simple when all installed in place but were a fairly complex shape to bend hot so that they lay tight against the wood from top to bottom.
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Oct 25, 2016 - 04:54pm PT
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Any guesses?
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Edge
Trad climber
Betwixt and Between Nederland & Boulder, CO
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Oct 25, 2016 - 05:04pm PT
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Making a cove cut by feeding at an angle to the saw blade.
Different from how I do it, but I like the overhead arm as a hold-down.
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Oct 25, 2016 - 05:13pm PT
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I figured you would get that pretty quick. Needed the hold down to keep it steady. Feeding 16 footers on a small ish saw top makes it hard to keep perfectly flat.
140' of it X 5 passes through the saw equals 3 bowls of Maui Wowie.
How's that for simple arithmetic?
What's your method Edge?
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
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Oct 25, 2016 - 06:08pm PT
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Checking will happen.
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Edge
Trad climber
Betwixt and Between Nederland & Boulder, CO
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Oct 25, 2016 - 06:13pm PT
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I think we have a similar approach to math, F.
That's a lot of lineal footage for a small saw, nice work! Hard to tell on my iPad but is that mahogany, or Philippine mahogany? Either mills nice with this set-up.
I always have the diagonal fence piece, obviously; if I'm just doing a little then I only use that. For quantity I make a backward "L" shaped fence so that I have a vertical component that I screw blocks on, and then featherboards or flexible sticks just fore and aft of the blade to hold tight to the table. Another wide featherboard gets clamped where your third arm is, and holds the stock tight to the fence.
I find the key is to make the featherboards with very thin tines and enough of a gap between them so that it flexes just the right amount without making the stock too hard to feed. I generally whip these up on the spot from scrap oak, cut a slight miter on the end to prevent kickback, and freehand the tines on the bandsaw. If I make the tines too long intentionally, I can shorten them on a sander until the flex feels right.
All this was moot when I had my shaper and power feed, but those weren't able to fit in the storage pod on our move and I've yet to replace them. My method above might be overkill, but having sacrificed a middle fingertip to above mentioned shaper (I paid for the too-little-too-late power feed the very next day), this keeps my remaining assets well away from spinning teeth.
Edit to add: Wilbeer, you should get a very big check for that one! 'Gaw-geous!'
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perswig
climber
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Oct 25, 2016 - 06:18pm PT
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F, do you use a single blade for the cove? Stacked dado?
Thanks.
Dale
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Oct 25, 2016 - 06:29pm PT
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It's Sapele, Edge. Reasonably priced around here. Gonna use it for the whole she-bang. (Cabinets, floor accent, post and beam wraps, trim).
Started with milling the crown first so I can start the 4 day finish schedule on it (72 hrs for the BLO mix to cook off) while I build carcasses and face frames.
No shaper in Milolii either.... I though about making up a few feather boards, but I figured the time I would save I could use on the beach instead. It worked out okay. About 5 hours from planer to the last chamfer cut with the router. Probably take another 5 to sand to coves and edges and finish it all. Better than the 22.50 a lineal foot quoted to me by some rip off middle man.
P- Single 80 tooth ATB. Raising the blade over several passes. Mellow feed rate. Last pass the blade is just barley cranked up and slow feed to minimize the sanding in the cove.
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Edge
Trad climber
Betwixt and Between Nederland & Boulder, CO
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Oct 25, 2016 - 06:39pm PT
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Sounds like it will be quite a beauty, F. My sapele experience is pretty much limited to this piece, my second ever veneered piece.
After milling the cove, I found that a well-tuned kidney shaped cabinet scraper will save a ton of elbow grease pre-sanding.
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Oct 25, 2016 - 06:50pm PT
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Yeah, my curved scraper is 5000 miles away. I think I'm just going to decant a bottle of wine and double stick some 60 grit to the bottle and go for it. That radius will match close enough.
That piece looks great, I like the lines. I love the ribbony texture of sapele. It goes great with curves.
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Oct 29, 2016 - 10:13pm PT
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Carcasses are in.
Oil is drying...
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Oct 31, 2016 - 09:47pm PT
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Ahhhhhhh sh#t.
I found some groovy glass for the upper cabinet doors. It's looks sweet with some back light, especially after a few doobies. Now I'm gonna have to go track down some cabinet lighting and spend more money and do more driving around. I just want to sleep on the beach and watch turtles swim around, but I gotta get the kitchen done before the lady friend shows up so she doesn't think that all I've been doing is, well, smoking doobies and watching turtles.
First world - fuc k ing - problems.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Edge,
That piece represents one hell of a lot of work!
What I cannot understand is that period furniture, up here in New England ,
is bringing no money at auction. Just last week 2 -18th century chest of drawers, in Ossipee, in nice shape, brought about $700. each. One reminded me of yours; although your piece is far more elaborate, in detail.
Most of the younger generation are not interested in buying, and the senior's are liquidating their collections.
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Dingus- Yes it is. Left hand.
Trying to get the place functional and pass final in a few weeks so I can get it rented out nightly while I'm away. A lot of work to do during my "vacation" but it's low stress and allows for some artistic expression. I'm up early to make a long drive to find some cabinet lighting, and a few gallons of mustard that I'm gonna need soon..... No, it's not for the turtles.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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I saw the photo of the cove jig and realized that it's something I should try, since trim, glue, and moulding are what I'm doing currently. Ten minutes on lunch break and I had a piece of crown 4 1/2'' tall with a nice radius to it. Minimal sanding for paint grade. Thanks for the info! Tiny blades for the table saw could make some nice little profiles in a pinch.
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ShawnInPaso
climber
Paso Robles, CA
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My old well pump (500' underground) wasn't providing enough pressure to the house. So I reconfigured the system, the well pump now fills a 5k gallon above ground tank, and a new booster pump makes sure enough pressure is available. After dealing with this over the weekend, in the rain of course, I've concluded that electricians and plumbers don't get paid enough.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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The Warbler,
I know you work quite a bit with a chainsaw, so I thought that I would post this photo, taken many years ago, of just some of the Oak beams I made, all with a chainsaw.
I did NOT use any kind of mill, but simply snapped chalk lines along the round logs. Many of these beams are 8x8's-30 feet long, so you can imagine the work involved.
The biggest beams are on the lower left, which were over 12 inches square.
They later became my "Summer" beams in the living room, seen in the photo.
Is this you in the photo I took in Camp 4, across from Henry Barber?
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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