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bajaandy
climber
Escondido, CA
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Dec 17, 2015 - 06:43pm PT
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Hey brotherbbock, really digging the combo of the wood and metal. Nicely done!
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Edge
Trad climber
Betwixt and Between Nederland & Boulder, CO
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Dec 18, 2015 - 08:04am PT
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I'm building a case of frostbite!
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Dec 18, 2015 - 08:08am PT
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Haha edge, don't miss that at all. The water heaters are good, but wet hands in frozen land is no fun.
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Edge
Trad climber
Betwixt and Between Nederland & Boulder, CO
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Dec 19, 2015 - 05:29pm PT
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I finished the drywall mudding on my work space earlier this week when we had a snow day. Today I lightly sanded and applied two coats of primer/paint to ceilings and walls.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Dec 19, 2015 - 07:16pm PT
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Nice
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zBrown
Ice climber
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Dec 19, 2015 - 07:19pm PT
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Although I don't build much, this is one of the best threads on the ST.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Dec 25, 2015 - 04:20am PT
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I finished my very first forged knife. It was supposed to be a replica of a 15th Century war dagger (a "ballock" dagger), but it didn't turn out very good.
This was the very first thing I made with a forge and hammer. It started with an automobile leaf spring from a junkyard. I forged the general shape, but I don't have a lot of hammers so the shape was finished with an angle grinder. Quench hardened in oil, and I think I tempered it. Boxwood handle. Full tang peened over a bronze pommel cap. Bronze bolster.
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Dec 25, 2015 - 09:16am PT
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Even though I have not contributed to this thread, it is one of my favorite ones. I really enjoy reading and looking at what other craftsman are doing. Brotherbbock's outdoor shower and gate above sparked me to share a gate I built for my X girlfriend. I like how you hid the hardware Brother
The next one I build will have the hardware hidden and screwed on from behind like you did. It looks so much cleaner
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Dec 26, 2015 - 08:07am PT
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This is a rolling driveway gate, fence and entry gate with some ipe attached to it. I did the Ipe in front of the house as well
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Dec 26, 2015 - 08:16am PT
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Dec 26, 2015 - 08:18am PT
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Very cool t2.
SLR, good go at the forged blade. I haven't tried that yet but do plan on making a tomahawk outta a railroad spike this winter. Though it wasn't exactly what you wanted, it still looks good.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Dec 26, 2015 - 02:15pm PT
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Not sure that RR spikes can be hardened sufficiently for a good tomahawk. I hear there are high-carbon spikes (marked HC). You should try a spark test or even try hardened one to see if they would be any good.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Dec 26, 2015 - 02:25pm PT
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Why not just get a small piece if 4130 or 8615?
If you are going to spend the time and effort to make a silk purse, no point in starting with a long dead sow's ear.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Dec 26, 2015 - 03:26pm PT
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The spike is more for practice, not for longevity. The spikes are easy to work with and even the High Carbon spikes aren't high enough for treating. They are actually low carbon compared to most blade steels. I've never used a forge, so to me I'd rather learn on some free steel, rather than ruining a silk purse.
SGropp might lend some knowledge here, hopefully:-)
Here's a couple picks of my buddies. First time forging.
He said he heat treated it like spring steel and it holds a pretty good edge. Used a mountain mohagany as a handle.
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SGropp
Mountain climber
Eastsound, Wa
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Dec 26, 2015 - 05:35pm PT
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I've never made a tomahawk [ yet ] but I have heard of people using HC railroad spikes.
I have a friend who makes them out of ball pein or claw hammer heads, forging the blade out from mass of the hammer face. They already have an eye and the better quality ones are decent steel that respond well to a simple heat treat
Doing a practice run using an inexpensive material is not a bad idea. So much of successfully forging an object is working out the right sequence of steps.
Lot's of good information on tomahawks on www.iforgeiron and some of the other bladesmithing forums
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Dec 26, 2015 - 06:14pm PT
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anyone, anywhere, who paints over real wood with either white or black should be dovetailed and rabbeted
I am going to disagree with you. From a design and sometimes even a functional perspective, it can be preferable to paint wood.
Here is an example:
The modern doors with glass inserts for our house remodel were mahogany. I told my contractor I wanted then painted a specific teal. He was very reluctant but I explained to him my reasoning that the way the door was inset into a darker area of the house the bright teal door would be a focal point and draw people to the entry way. Stained mahogany would also not have been the best value/hue for the color of our stucco or interior. He still wasn't convinced. He hated the idea of painting the wood.
After it was done, he came to me and said, "You know, you were right. Those doors look great that color. " And I can't tell you how many times I've been working in the yard and have walkers going by say, "I love your house especially the color of your front doors."
A lot of times the look of old crappy wood kitchen cabinets will be improved with a good semi-gloss. I have a friend who lives in a small studio apt. The kitchen area was dark and dreary. I painted the cabinets a soft light gray and it completely changed the mood in the apt. He likes it so much more just from a mood standpoint. Color has tremendous psychological impact and you can't always get that with natural stained wood.
But I agree, if you want color, other than natural wood color, it's far preferable not to start with a hardwood at all.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Dec 27, 2015 - 09:29am PT
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My wife wanted a taller TV stand for our bedroom. When watching a movie of TV in bed you'd have to hold remote's up really high to get over our bed and actuate the DVD player/Cable box. Total PITA.
I was tasked with building one that would alleviate this problem. I'm using my favorite, Red oak boards. Really beautiful wood to work with and the grain patterns are really cool.
Phase one: Measure, cut, and then stain the boards with a quality Linseed-oil wood finish. The board on the far right is what they look like un-finished. These boards are the main frame of the cabinet/stand.
And my humble work-shop.
It'll have 2 doors beneath the upper TV stand and a drawer beneath the doors, at the bottom.
Another request was to have a table that folds up from one side as a writing surface, and folds back down when not in use to save space. That will be the crux of this project.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Dec 27, 2015 - 09:45am PT
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You ever cut up a red oak? Like drop the tree, cut it up for firewood?
How to describe the smell...kinda like wet, nasty dogsh#t. We burned firewood as our primary heat source growing up. Mostly white oak, some hickory, occasional pecan if one fell (pecan sucks to split, it's really "stringy" and pretty dense, fine with a hydraulic but we split by hand until my brother and I left home..then dad bought a splitter) and some red oak.
Doesn't stink to burn, don't notice it really once the wood is dried and seasoned, but fresh? Hoo boy, nasty!
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mikeyschaefer
climber
Sport-o-land
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Dec 27, 2015 - 10:37am PT
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I'm kinda building a 10.4kW PV setup at my place in central Oregon. Though to be honest I'm just doing some of the manual labor, like digging a 350' ditch to lay conduit in. A local company is doing most of the heavy lifting. But I had to lift up the pen and write the check which wasn't a small task.
Real excited for it to be done. Everything on my 5 acre property is electric. No gas on the property so heat is even electric. The PV system will produce everything I need to run the place.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Dec 27, 2015 - 10:44am PT
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Are you also installing storage?
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