Old Camp Four etc. Photos

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throwpie

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Original Post - May 18, 2010 - 06:37pm PT
I came across these photos and thought I'd post them. They're from the early seventies. If I find more, I'll post them later.
Cheers!
Steve Walstead


donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
May 18, 2010 - 06:42pm PT
Thanks! Didn't really know any of your group, but I remember some of the faces.
The Alpine

Big Wall climber
May 18, 2010 - 07:09pm PT
Wow - a bookshelf in campo quatro. Those were different times indeed.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
May 18, 2010 - 07:13pm PT
Yeah, Camp 4 was actually livable in those days. It is now one of the truly grim climber hangs.
WBraun

climber
May 18, 2010 - 07:20pm PT
In the first photo at the table there's Nita right behind Jeff Mathis (2nd from left) ....

Mouse had a missing thumb from an accident at the Merced cannery.
Mtnmun

Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
May 18, 2010 - 07:33pm PT
That looks like my friend Ruth on the right, first pic.
throwpie

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2010 - 07:35pm PT
There's a great shot of Mouse on (in?) Moby Dick in the Vertical World of Yosemite.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
May 18, 2010 - 07:38pm PT
Fun shots, thanks
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
May 18, 2010 - 07:42pm PT
I remember David Yohhalum (but I don't know how to spell his name!) I remember one pundit quipping: "I you bring him you-haul-him". All these pics were taken before the giant leap backward called the "Swing to the Right" around 1980. Different times indeed!
throwpie

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2010 - 07:44pm PT
Ruth! Thats her name. Heres a photo of her after we did the Nutcracker together. Dig the blue shoes. I can't tell you how nostalgic this is for me.
MisterE

Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
May 18, 2010 - 08:10pm PT
Great pictures from the way-back machine!

This is why I love this place - these out-of-the-blue remembrances.

"Don't ask me why

I'm just a hairy guy

I'm hairy noon and night"...

throwpie

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2010 - 08:12pm PT
Two more
Mtnmun

Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
May 18, 2010 - 08:26pm PT
That looks like two different women to me: top and bottom Ruths. Not the same build.
throwpie

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2010 - 08:40pm PT
I think you're right now that I look closer. It's been a long time.
C4/1971

Trad climber
Depends on the day...
May 18, 2010 - 09:12pm PT
I lived in C4 that year. Jeff made babycakes and homemade syrup most mornings. Read a quote from the Bible and then rolled one with said page...

David Yohallum died of TB of all things, his lungs just bled out.

Nice pic of Ellsworth....

Those were good days...

Climbed Sentinel with Randy Hamm, the Chouinard Herbert, my first wall, Memorial Day weekend 1972, epic, with two liters of water between us. Randy died on the Cross on Mount Davidson, on an Easter Sunday a few years later, trying to climb it.

Donini, I remember your bus, the upscale life...

Blue shoes=Royal Robbins
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
May 18, 2010 - 09:59pm PT
For those of you who don't know, Bill Bonebrake died from some sort of toxic shock, with his wife Gail, a nurse, driving him to the emergency room. This was sometime in the 80s I think.

I remember the faces and the names. Cool shots (all shots were butt shots until Meyers started staging them.)

Is the Chris with the swami and EBs, Vandiver? I cannot see his face but the build and hair a plausible.
C4/1971

Trad climber
Depends on the day...
May 18, 2010 - 10:04pm PT
I thought that also, but I don't think that is Vandiveer. (BTW, EB's means 1972.) And it is not Chris Anderson!

I miss Bonebrake, he was a sweet human being...
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
from the Leastside
May 18, 2010 - 10:25pm PT
"Randy died on the Cross on Mount Davidson . . "
Was he in this ascent(s) of it ? http://www.mtdavidson.org/clandestine_cross_climbers
Fuzzywuzzy

climber
suspendedhappynation
May 18, 2010 - 10:55pm PT
That Linda Halverson (limber Linda) Jeff g-friend at the time. And....I think that is Drone Stevens sitting on the hard Rt.

Question: True about David Yohalem? He was a professor in Europe and just moved to the U of NH a couple of years ago. CF has had comm with him.

Bill Bonebreak might have died of Hanta Virus as he was tearing out the stud walls of his home doing remodeling = tons of mouse sh#t.

Great flash from the past!

Any more?
C4/1971

Trad climber
Depends on the day...
May 18, 2010 - 11:04pm PT
Biotch,

no, I think Randy died around 1979 or 80. His girlfriend Gypsy from Santa Cruz would have known....
mastadon

Trad climber
quaking has-been
May 18, 2010 - 11:27pm PT

You're right, Carter, that does look like Drone "The Snake" Stevens on the right. Nita must have been about 15 at the time. The others look familiar but my brain hurts trying to remember.....
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 19, 2010 - 12:18am PT
I want to repeat Fuzzywuzzy's question about David Yohalem. It's sad but in this thread Bill Bonebreak and David were the two people that I remember by name, and I would hate to think that they are both gone now. Wasn't Gene Folley part of this crowd? I remember Mathis and Linda by their faces, but could never have come up with their names. There are some similar photos of this time at http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/950570/Indian-Rock-and-the-Valley-around-1970-some-photos , but none of this particular group. I have a photo of Bill that I will try to dig up.
C4/1971

Trad climber
Depends on the day...
May 19, 2010 - 12:33am PT
Gene was a part of the group. From SF, he had one of the best camping trucks I saw in the early seventies. I liked it when Gene got into rockets and fired them from El Cap Meadow at climbers on the various routes...
Fletcher

Trad climber
not very much, recently.
May 19, 2010 - 12:37am PT
I, for one, am really enjoying this thread. I was a mere lad of 9 or 10 in the early seventies when these photos were taken, but there was part of me that has always wanted to be there.

Keep 'em coming. This thread's a jewel.

Eric
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
May 19, 2010 - 02:22am PT
in 2030, I want to be able post just like this.

may threads like this live forever


WBraun

climber
May 19, 2010 - 02:27am PT
You're right Kevin, I forgot all about Barbara.

Damn missed that one and didn't even recognize Drone.

PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
May 19, 2010 - 09:23am PT
Great thread.
Anyone know what happen to Gene Foley?
Last heard from him in the mid to late 90's.
throwpie

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2010 - 12:19pm PT
Randy Hamm's death was quite a shock. Andy Cox and Jack Dorn, both friends, also killed...Randy and Gypsy were great friends of ours...lost track of them along the way and then found out about his fall on TV. Yosemite was such a big part of my life...I grew up in Merced as did Mouse and Mathis, both of who really taught me the ropes. I always felt like I was just on the outside of the scene. Too many great climbers and characters at the time, and I was always in awe. Gene Foley was a friend also...last time I saw him must have been in the late seventies when he lived in SF. Werner, I remember well...we bummed cigs from each other...I'm sure he wouldn't remember me. How about Cowboy Larry Moore? And Steve Williams? And Skeet? So many others....I haven't really climbed seriously since the early eighties, and never really climbed seriously then, I guess. Anyway....

Here's a shot of Randy and (pregnant) Gypsy after a surf in Santa Cruz.
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
May 19, 2010 - 12:24pm PT
Awesome stuff. My favorite kind of posts (maybe cuz i'm getting older). I didn't show up to Camp 4 until '79, when I was 16, and even then was a pretty sporadic visitor. Makes me wish I had brought my camera.
Fuzzywuzzy

climber
suspendedhappynation
May 19, 2010 - 01:50pm PT
Steve Williams aka "Slings"

Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
May 19, 2010 - 02:03pm PT
Great picture of Slings, Tom. Maybe a little too characteristic but always a welcome face and smile.
Fuzzywuzzy

climber
suspendedhappynation
May 19, 2010 - 02:14pm PT
Here's one of the "Rev" also Prez of "The Flames" of Merced. Jeff had the sweetest set up at camp. He was the SAR leader up in the Meadows the first summer Cochrane and I were on the team. So much fun and really showed us around. I remember early one morning - Jeff reading a page of the Bible before putting it to "use", "Ladies and Gentlemen, uncles and aunts and all you peoples in the Levi pants...."

He basically quit climbing after the accident on the Yawn with ? Ross. Blocks in the OW nearly caused some major injuries.

Great old friend to many.

David Yohalem


Hey Roger! That isn't my photo - but I've witnessed the "verve".
throwpie

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2010 - 03:10pm PT
This is really fun. Digging through boxes of photos... I'm glad I started this thread...its nice know theres still folks out there that shared that time and space with me.
My wife and I lived in the rescue camp up in the meadows one summer...Must have been 72? Never went on a rescue though. Got to go to a Lloyd Price fish fry...I do remember an elaborate bear hang in the camp. Near the end of the summer Jeff, Nancy (his girlfriend at the time, and still a close friend of ours) my girlfriend, now wife Peggy and I took off in Nan's yellow VW convertible to Montana. Four of us plus gear in that car...ah youth. An adventure for sure. I think this was a year before his Yawn accident. I think a block pulled and mashed his finger pretty good. He was a ways out and had to downclimb on bloody jams. I do remember it freaked him out bad and that was about it for his climbing. I should look that old boy up...I haven't seen him in years.

I have this one shot of Jeff climbing on a crag near Red Lodge Montana. Also in his cool hat.


Fuzzywuzzy

climber
suspendedhappynation
May 19, 2010 - 03:49pm PT
Throwpie -

That wasn't when we were over at Sodasprings was it. Remember Phil Birdcheff working on his wooden bust out away from camp?

The Rev is quite a dancer. Still cuts a rug like no other. Lives in/near Groveland.

Keep digging for those shots!!!
throwpie

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2010 - 04:21pm PT
No, the rescue camp was behind the store as I recall. Could have been '73. I DO remember Niceley's all you can eat chicken dinners over the hill in Lee Vining. I know I have more pictures, I just can't find them.
C4/1971

Trad climber
Depends on the day...
May 19, 2010 - 09:35pm PT
Love the picture of Slings. My memories of him are Camel cigs and beer, and mooching food in the cafeteria.

Also loved the pic of Randy and Gypsy, good folks. Also miss Andy Cox, but it was a great wake. Rangers kept trying to shut it down and the fire kept getting bigger. Image of the night? Werner balancing a burning broom on his nose and walking across a four foot tall bonfire. No liquor was involved....

Ed Barry. Awfully fun to climb with , as was Donini. And John Long was funny, third classing Chickenhead Delight with the rope in a hangman's noose...

RIP Peter Barton and Tim Harrison...
TripL7

Trad climber
san diego
May 19, 2010 - 10:07pm PT
I remember P. Bircheff '74, at one of the more remote spots across the road, carving a bust of a MT. Man that looked allot like himself.
C4/1971

Trad climber
Depends on the day...
May 19, 2010 - 11:10pm PT
climbed a lot with his brother Dave, and hung with the nurses at the clinic playing Panzerblitz. We had some great climbing days...he lives outside Hemet these days...looking for anthropology sites in the desert...
throwpie

Trad climber
Berkeley
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 29, 2010 - 05:15pm PT
The first time I met Tim Harrison, he had just hitch hiked up 395 to the meadow with a little teardrop trailer. He had a clamp on hitch and said he had no problem getting rides. So cool. I got to climb with him a few times before his accident. I remember setting up a toprope on the Death Crack with him and a few other thrillseekers...coming off produced the best rope swing in the area. I don't think it had been led at that point. (I'm probably wrong) While we were up there, we heard someone yell "you're gonna die!" coming from a car parked by the lake. That's Bridwell, someone said. We all survived.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Jun 29, 2010 - 05:21pm PT

Fun stuff, throwpie--but remember,
most climbing shots are buttshots or headshots. . .
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Jun 29, 2010 - 05:45pm PT
super cool photos you guys.. keep the scans going..
Bldrjac

Ice climber
Boulder
Jun 29, 2010 - 06:47pm PT
That is an AWESOME picture of Slings!! Totally the way I remember him.

That was a shocker the way Andy tied. I first met him when Jim Orey and I were doing what became the 4th ascent of The Muir Wall. I was leading out toward Heart Ledge and ran out of rope. So I was stranded 25 feet below with no way to anchor. George Myers and Andy were sitting on Heart Ledge, having fixed up above on the Salathe. Andy tossed me a loop of fixed rope to anchor from. That night we all shared beers.
Shameless Yahoolihan

Trad climber
west malling, uk
Jan 2, 2011 - 01:34pm PT
just a couple of corrections: first to day, David Yohalem did not die of TB, as reported. I should know. He´s alive and currently living in England. Has also lived and or worked in Antarctica, Central America and Denmark. Still climbs at a mediocre standard. Wears an old pair of Mythos.
The wake where Werner was fire walking was Tim Harrison´s. The rnager trying to quiet us down was Meade Hargis. Yes, that´s Drone to Yohalem´s right in the picture. Chris Falkensten used to maintain a page called ´Old friends´with pictures of (and by) Tom Carter including several of Dirty Dennis Miller and Chuck Cochran that were clasics of their kind. Also of Dave and Phil Birchieff. A couple of Yohalem, too.
Ciao for now.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 2, 2011 - 01:57pm PT
Great Thread throwpie!
Shameless Yahoolihan

Trad climber
west malling, uk
Jan 13, 2011 - 06:56am PT
BTW, C4, EBs were available in 1971 in the Valley. Got my first pair there in 1971. $12. And expensive at that! Also availabe at that time: RDs, PAs, RRs - all made by Galibier and my favorite Pivetta Cortinas (super comfotable in slings and good for friction when broken in/down -- kind of like me). If one was lucky, one could find Dolt blue boots, a varappe rather like EBs, but not quite so uncomfortable.

I shared a flat with Randy and Gypsy (Flores) in Seacliff, when we were all attending Cabrillo JC in '75. We made a film called 'Off the Wall' about a person forced to climb buildings due to residence in the flats. Randy directed and filmed, we co-wrote and I was the builderer.

Cheers
wildone

climber
Troy, MT
Jan 13, 2011 - 07:31am PT
You haul 'im-
I'm a yank from Yosemite living in Kent too! Just a few miles from ya, actually. Little place called Hernhill, by Boughton-Under-Blean, Between Chaversham (ha) and Canterbury.
You ever feel like having a pint, let me know.
TomCochrane

Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
Jan 13, 2011 - 11:41am PT
Pat Ament is apparently the only person with quality pictures of me climbing in the early 60s; but he's holding out on me. The only one I've seen is one that he shared for the first time yesterday on the 'Fail Falling' thread.

Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Jan 13, 2011 - 12:13pm PT
I did not know him well, but that pic of Slings made all sorts of BITD memories flood in!

As always... MORE PICS!
BooDawg

Social climber
Polynesian Paradise
Jan 13, 2011 - 12:20pm PT
Great Thread! Both the pix and the memories. Yes, Jeff Mathis' campsite was a real classic, and he always had a smile and made one feel welcome at his place. I remember him as having a girl friend, Lynnette Davis, I think was her name. Anyone remember or have pix of her? I've gotta dig for some pix now...
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Jan 13, 2011 - 01:17pm PT
Weschrist, BITD chicks were who left because you climbed too much.
Now they are who you wish would be your rope gun.



This is a great thread. Thank you all for the pics and memories.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jan 13, 2011 - 01:34pm PT
How 'bout Ellie and Bruce? As I recall their Sheik of Arabi abode woulda
made Mu'ammar al-Qaḏḏāfī give a nod of approval.
Shameless Yahoolihan

Trad climber
west malling, uk
Jan 13, 2011 - 01:42pm PT
Actually, the Sheik tent belonged to a guy named Jim Matsen (sic, but definitely NOT Madsen, who fell on a rescue on the Dihedral). He was a friend of the Hawkins', Mike White, Drone Stevens, James Wright and David Jensen (Kid Carrot) from Washington. On loan from Lompoc.

About Pat Ament: does anyone remember when he sold Chris Vandiver's guitar to John (nee David) Weitzer? What a hoot.

Slings (Steve Williams) will always live in my memory as the man who woke to find a bear straddling him, screamed, tucked himself into his sleeping bag, peeked out, got swatted, screamed, tucked, peeked and got swatted again. He was a wonderful mellow soul, somewhat freaked out after being the one to find Madsen's body (headless) at the base of El Cap. Had a 54 flathead Ford. We even wrote a song about him: Lighting Slings, Lightning Slings, see how high he bounds. Lightning Slings, Lighning Slings, two feet off the ground. Feared by the good. Loved by the Bad. Lightning Slings... Williams.
Shameless Yahoolihan

Trad climber
west malling, uk
Jan 14, 2011 - 07:30am PT
Boo Dawg-- Lynette Davis was Gypsy Flores' sister. No photos, but a real cutie. I used to have quite a few photos of those times, but all were lost in the Big Thompson flood of 1976. Oh, well... one still has memories.
BooDawg

Social climber
Polynesian Paradise
Jan 14, 2011 - 01:37pm PT
Reading up-thread the great story of Tim Harrison hitch-hiking with his trailer. Hearing him tell about the rides he got was JUST HILARIOUS!
RIP, Brother.
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Jan 14, 2011 - 08:27pm PT
Wow, Throwpie, I have never seen that photo of Randy and myself on the beach in Santa Cruz.

Randy died Good Friday, April 1st 1983 climbing the cross on Mt. Davidson. He was 33.

I have photos of those days too and if I ever get a scanner set up I will post a few. I have one from Andy Cox's wake with Brian Wyvil and Ben Campbell-Kelly and others around a table. I didn't take the photo so I don't know if it is okay to post that one but I know many people would love to see it.

Anyone know where Rick Sylvester is these days?

Dick Erb

climber
June Lake, CA
Jan 15, 2011 - 09:18pm PT
I see that stories change over time. When Kumpf and Slings found Madsen's body at the base of El Cap it was not headless. I brought some rangers up to it shortly after they were there. The head was on the body.
I started a thread about this event awhile back.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1032275/The-death-of-Jim-Madsen
WBraun

climber
Jan 15, 2011 - 10:14pm PT
That's weird eh?

Slings told me he found the head and freaked out and became an alcoholic .....
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
Jan 15, 2011 - 10:43pm PT
bump for climbing
Shameless Yahoolihan

Trad climber
west malling, uk
Jan 18, 2011 - 06:02pm PT
Since the event pre-dates my arrival in the valley, I'll accede to Erb's version. But I remember hearing from Slings pretty much what Werner said. Still, I'd love to hear from him. Slings abides!
Shameless Yahoolihan

Trad climber
west malling, uk
Apr 4, 2011 - 06:55pm PT
ThaDood- Nicely's was ALWAYS competitive. Went there with Sheridan Anderson, George Sessions, Phil Birchieff and a Polish nuclear physicist named Maria at the time of the filming of High Plains Drifter at Mono. After about three hours we got tossed, even though we complained it was all you can eat. Their response was: yes, and that's ALL you can eat for 2.95 (food was cheaper then). We proceded to drink and get 86'ed from every place in town. Sheridan had just been told by Galen Rowell that he was being profiled in Summit as 'America's foremost alpine cartoonist', so he was buttonholing everyone and asking if they knew who he was. Totally pissed: do you know who I am? America's foremost alpine cartoonist -buy me a drink. And get one for the kid (me), too. Next day I was his netter as he caught trout for all in the rescue site. A great man!
tom Carter

Social climber
Apr 4, 2011 - 09:29pm PT
Got a great one of Tim slacklining while juggling 4 sticks.

Tim would rework those flakes with a 16 p nail and then invite girls for a hike along the "seeded" trail.

That trailer was full of honey!

tom Carter

Social climber
Apr 19, 2011 - 08:29pm PT
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Apr 19, 2011 - 09:36pm PT
Nice shot Tommy Boy!

Yes is Gary Colliver, correct spelling now.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 19, 2011 - 10:29pm PT
Do you mean Colliver, Guido? Looks like him...
tom Carter

Social climber
Apr 19, 2011 - 11:27pm PT
Dr Woo!

Do you have archives buried all over the South Pacific or something.

You are amazing.

Will we see each other this year?

Love and angulation,

TC

edit: I remember buying that shot of Timmy from Jeff Stubbs after His fall.
tom Carter

Social climber
Apr 21, 2011 - 05:04pm PT
Mr Bob "Howard" Ashworth in the meadows site in 1973.
throwpie

Trad climber
Berkeley
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2011 - 05:43pm PT
Thanks to everyone who added to this thread...the best!!! Here's an ancient shot of me, twisting one up after a trip up the leap
tom Carter

Social climber
Apr 22, 2011 - 01:12am PT

Walter in all his glory - in storm on Tribal Rite.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Apr 22, 2011 - 01:33am PT
Gypsy,
The last I saw of Sylvester he was looking bizarrly disoriented in the bazaar
in Samarkand and murmuring something about "going native"...

Guck

Trad climber
Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 22, 2011 - 01:53am PT
For over 40 years I have wondered what happened to the guy who dropped me 80 feet to the ground while climbing Rixon's pinacle at Easter '71. I met the fellow in camp 4 a couple days earlier and I do not remember him at all. If anyone knows the dude, please tell him that I long forgave him and hope that he kept on climbing (with better technique). The incident has been in my chest for a long tome and I hope that he found peace long ago.
lazymonkey

Boulder climber
upstate NY
Apr 22, 2011 - 07:46am PT
awesome, thank you for sharing
rottingjohnny

Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
Apr 22, 2011 - 08:18am PT
I hear chuck played for the dodgers..? check out the swing...Rj
scuffy b

climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
Apr 22, 2011 - 11:36am PT
is that Philippe up above?
You were belayed on the wrong rope?
This is Steve Moyles.
Gibraltar, Tahquitz, etc. Sept 71 till May 73
PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
Apr 22, 2011 - 12:22pm PT
Super great thread.
Those pictures of "Slings" and Tim Harrison brought back such wonderful memories.
Steve Williams took me up my first Big Wall: a two day ascent of the North Face of the Rostrum. We were picked up on top by his friends Bridwell and Covington. I felt I had entered the world of real climbers.
Tim was such a wonderful soul. Everything from his legendary hitch hike with a trailer to his skills at obtaining a free meal, not to mention his passion for climbing, made him one of the most memorable characters of that time.
I feel so lucky to have had a chance to known the people of Camp 4 back then.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Apr 22, 2011 - 12:23pm PT
Nice shot of the ballgame AC - what year do you reckon?
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Apr 22, 2011 - 12:32pm PT
AC
great pic.
Wonder if SuperTopans can get together and identify many of those characters.
The catcher and the guy leaning against the backstop (Kauk?) might be easy.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Apr 22, 2011 - 12:52pm PT
This was two years before my first summer in the valley.

Werner is there with his arms crossed. Chapman with his shirt off. Don't recognize many others.
Maysho

climber
Soda Springs, CA
Apr 22, 2011 - 12:56pm PT
I think it is Bruce Brossman with his shirt off.
Maysho

climber
Soda Springs, CA
Apr 22, 2011 - 01:00pm PT
I believe it was 1972. I have packed my car and am about to drive to El Portal to Lynda's house, for our big Easter gathering. See you Sunday Matt?

Peter
WBraun

climber
Apr 22, 2011 - 01:05pm PT
the guy leaning against the backstop (Kauk?)


No that's Paul Cowen, and Carrot top to the right of him.

I see Vandavire,(sp?) Peter Barton, Meyers, Sutton, Ashworth, luke FreeMan, Hawkins, etc etc.

Holy sh'it the whole freakin tribe is there.

The catcher LEO ....
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Apr 22, 2011 - 01:55pm PT
Very interesting thread to look over (for a 24 y/o new to climbing guy). Interesting to look at the style of clothes etc that people wore back than. I see people didn't need newest version of Patagonia's breathable lightweight pants to climb, could do just as well in jeans! : )

Was there a bolt ladder to the top of the cross on Mt. Davidson?
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Apr 22, 2011 - 03:28pm PT
http://creakofboots.blogspot.com/2010/05/climbers-vs-rangers.html
Robb

Social climber
The other "Magic City on the Plains"
Apr 22, 2011 - 03:36pm PT
How many of you guys played on the "Face First" team?
Ferretlegger

Trad climber
san Jose, CA
Apr 22, 2011 - 03:36pm PT
Scuffy- That is indeed Phillipe posting about his ground fall. I will let him know you asked about him!
Michael jefferson
scuffy b

climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
Apr 22, 2011 - 06:02pm PT
That's great, Michael.
He was my first partner, when he was just coming back from his injury.
tom Carter

Social climber
Apr 22, 2011 - 06:48pm PT
I also think I can spot Mark McPherran, Chris Walker, Steve Sutton, Vince Goetz. Chris Falkenstein, Diane (Hitchy's girlfriend), Jerry Anderson, and Tom Morrison.

Werner, where is Luke?
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Apr 22, 2011 - 07:22pm PT
perhaps that pic could make its way to YCA. Better if the "usual suspects" in the pic can be identified.
Guck

Trad climber
Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 22, 2011 - 08:09pm PT
Hi Rokjox,

I came from France a few months earlier, and was used to the twin rope belay that was standard practice on hard routes (two 8mil ropes clipped alternatively to reduce rope drag). I also had a tail rope to haul the packs. The Dude was almost certainly belaying in the tail rope. At the top of the arches on the first pitch, I needed a fifi hook to make it to the nice ledge above. Since I did not have the hook, I tried a dyno. With a couple fingers where the hook should have been, I lunged for the nice hold above, but did not quite make it... After the rangers picked me up, they sent me to the hospital in the valley, where the staff decided I was too broken up to be fixed locally. They poured me in a whole body cast, tossed me on the back seat of my friends'car, and ended up somewhat fixed in Santa Barbara. I do not recommend the experience to anyone. Cheers!
Guck

Trad climber
Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 23, 2011 - 08:19pm PT
Hi Scuffy b,

I sent you an email for contacts. Hope to hear from you soon.

Philippe.
maldaly

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Apr 27, 2011 - 11:04am PT
Just found this gem for a trip to the Valley in '76. I'm pretty sure we were headed up past the falls for some after-dinner tips cracks.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Apr 27, 2011 - 11:10am PT
nice rack of hexes there, guys.
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Apr 27, 2011 - 12:14pm PT
1976
New ropes
new hexes
new harnesses
new rugby shirt
Were you guys noobs or just emerging yuppies?
(pullin' yer chain)
Great pic. Oh the memories. I'd have fit right into that pic except in '76 I was still using my homemade harness from 1" webbing, complete with leg loops.

ooooohhhh....and a store bought gear sling. You guys were stylin'!!
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Apr 27, 2011 - 12:17pm PT
Mal, what kind of harnesses/leg loops were you using then?
throwpie

Trad climber
Berkeley
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2011 - 02:53pm PT
Hope you had everything tucked away when you loaded that harness...
maldaly

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Apr 27, 2011 - 04:14pm PT
I still have that rugby shirt. It's completely swiss-cheesed and tattered at the edges. Problem is is that it shrunk or something. I just can't get in to it anymore.

That was my first harness and was a Clan Roberstson Professional. It was replaced by a tied swami a couple of years later when I got cool.

The other guy in the photo, Dave Bohn, was a pretty consistent partner of mine in the '70's and was the strongest guy I've ever met. He could pinch a ceiling joist and do 5 pullups on it.
Shameless Yahoolihan

Trad climber
west malling, uk
Apr 30, 2011 - 12:54pm PT
Cochrane, I believe, played one season of rookie league ball for the Dodgers. Paul Cowan, Chris Vandiveer going Oooh at Chuck's shot, Bruce Hawkins and, a bit behind and to the left of Cowan, Steve Sutton next to Bruce Brossman with Bob Ashworth next to him, Tim Harrison a bit to the right, Tom Morrison, David Yohalem on the right in profile, David 'Kid Carrot' Jensen, Dick Ellsworth to the left of the tree with big beard. Chrius Falkenstein seated to the right of the tree. A bearded Bill Bonebreak on the right. Before the time Kauk.

Shameless Yahoolihan

Trad climber
west malling, uk
Apr 30, 2011 - 01:26pm PT
Tim Harrison in white shorts, Luke Freeman two to the left of Ellsworth, Werner next to Bonebreak with arms crossed. Chris Falkenstein is the one looking up at Steve Sutton. Might be Roger Breedlove seated with his face blocked but his afro showing on the right. Not Dirty Dennis Miller (Kid Millis) in the baseball shirt. No idea who it is, though.
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Apr 30, 2011 - 01:39pm PT
Mal, I had the same Robertson harness that Dave Bohn is wearing. If you didn't double back the waist tail through the big buckle, that thing would open right up on you. First time I took a leader fall, when I forgot to do that, I ended upside down hanging from the leg loops. With my bird legs, it was a wonder I didn't fall right out of them!
tom Carter

Social climber
May 5, 2011 - 12:24am PT

Sorry I screw up on Photobucket - so here it my friend David Yohalem!
tom Carter

Social climber
May 5, 2011 - 12:29am PT

Thought I had better put in this pic of Jeff in his very famous "The Flames" T-shirt. I got one of the backside I've got to find. Dice, flames etc....
tom Carter

Social climber
May 5, 2011 - 12:33am PT

Talked with Chuck today. He is doing really well. Spent a ton of time up in mammoth skiing which he loves.

The cat can swing anything, golf club, tennis racket, ball bat etc..
tom Carter

Social climber
May 8, 2011 - 04:53pm PT

Dale, Bob Loche (Bob-o) and Patricia Batchelder otop Bobo's Van in the meadows quite altered.
Rick Sylvester

Trad climber
Squaw Valley, California
May 8, 2011 - 05:19pm PT
Great photos. I knew there had to be a lot more out there besides Glen Denny's excellent stuff. I last saw Brian "Mouse" working at the Berkeley Robbins seconds shop -- or was it another brand? -- near the REI a few -- actually probably several -- years ago. I don't know about a cannery accident. I know years ago he almost lost a finger due to a rattler -- I love the term "buzzworm" -- bite while hiking in to do a route in Sequoia or somewhere. I didn't know Bonebrake passed... and so long ago. Such a shame, and a way too short life. Randy Hamm and I ice climbed the Dana Couloir on a miserably cold windy fall day. Back at the car my hands were frozen useless blocks; it took me minutes -- really! -- to be able to insert the key into the lock. And I found small snowballs in both jacket pockets, formed by the collected spindrift, a unique experience. Randy, just a sweet sweet person, and his significant other, Gypsy, baked bagels for a living at one point. Shinnying up/down the cross was a northern California climbers' tradition or rite de passage like climbing the Golden Gate Bridge's south tower, but not so popular. That's still on my "To Do" list but maybe I procrastinated too long. Now, post 9/11, there's probably a "Shoot first, ask questions later" policy. Does anyone know? And is there anyone who knows the strategy who wants to join me?
Rick Sylvester

Trad climber
Squaw Valley, California
May 9, 2011 - 01:34am PT
Unbelievable stuff, a treasure trove -- the memories, the associations...and the lost friends and acquaintances. Peter Barton -- such a sweet man -- and his weird accident, Andy Cox and his, Tim Harrison and his and Randy Hamm -- another with such a sweet demeanor, and his, on that stupid cross. Gypsy- Hi! It's been a long time. Bizarre accidents lives cut short at way too young an age, all victims of the ol' "Gravity never sleeps" syndrome. Linda Halvorsen -- amazing! We spent a little time together. I think she worked as a maid -- is that term currently pc? -- at Yosemite Lodge. Paul Cowan and David Yohalem and I -- three members of the Hebraic Alpine Club, if there was such. Thank goodness rumors of David's demise have been greatly exaggerated; one can take only so much. Joe "Touching the Void" Simpson had it right with the title of one of his other books, "This Game of Ghosts". My memory's equating and confusing Gene Foley and Bruce Kumpf. Did "Chingando" with the latter. I believe he got into -- of course I'm talking decades ago -- fine art or whatever it's called book binding, a fairly esoteric field, at least to my mind. And Steve Williams aka "Slings". I know the derivation of the moniker...and I'm sure others out there do too. Another really nice guy, and even way back then I worried about his future. Did he have one? Did any of us (but some more than others), selling futures down the river, giving in to the addiction, the immediate gratification of a pursuit like climbing, not building, putting anything away for the future and all that crap? Grasshoppers rather than ants. But as the years and age advance there can be a stiff price to pay.
I think I've been quietly -- not always so quietly -- going crazy with these people and memories and stories running through my head, thinking I was the only one who knew and remembered them, my/our precious fleeting youth. Sorry, cliche-ish, but cliches happen because they rep resentreflections of truth. And now to discover this Forum. It may be my salvation, mental therapy...or my ruination.
Shameless Yahoolihan

Trad climber
west malling, uk
May 9, 2011 - 07:26am PT
Sylvester LIVES!!.. Is reminiscence the same as nostalgia? Sometimes I think my time in Yosemite was created to assemble a collection of excellent memories. (Rick-- note the song we wrote about Slings.. fastest man in the world to get off of free climbing and into aiders! Taught me the joy of nesting with Leepers).

Tha Dood: Dennis Miller changed his moniker to Kid Millis when he found a sateen bathrobe that looked like a boxer's robe with Kid Millis stitched on the back. He wore it everywhere for months! Around that time Randy Hamm and I were doing the first naked ascent of Bishop's Terrace. Millis, walking by in his robe, started attracting a crowd in his best circus barker mode: LADIES and GENTLEMEN.. above you, you will see the famous Yosemite climbers, the boys who roughen their hands on granite and women... and OH MY GOD.. they're NAKED. For the rest of the climb I was shrouded in puffs of chalk. All went well except for the rap off the chimney, too steep to keep the ropes on front, we needed the added friction of a body wrap. Not comfortable.
rottingjohnny

Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
May 9, 2011 - 09:35am PT
Bathrobe....? Kid Millis...Sylvester...the taco has suddenly become more interesting..
Shameless Yahoolihan

Trad climber
west malling, uk
May 9, 2011 - 06:15pm PT
Upon further perusal, I believe that the person on the far left at the baseball game may be Herb Swedlund, the girl to the left of Cowan and behind the backstop is Liza Anderson and Vern Clevenger is visible behind Hawkins and a little to the left in the photo. And I neglected to identify Luke Freeman who is standing behind and to the left in the photo of Bruce Hawkins.
Shameless Yahoolihan

Trad climber
west malling, uk
May 10, 2011 - 06:55am PT
Tha Dood: No, Liza is living and well in Idaho. I heard from her after re-connecting with TC.

This string and site have been really good for catching up with old friends. Closest thing I have to a social network (too many avoidances to bother listing in facebook. Those people want to KILL me!)
tom Carter

Social climber
May 10, 2011 - 12:08pm PT
I went to High School with Liza. She has not changed in regards to her joy for life!

She taught me how to climb and together we did some of our first climbs in the Valley.

She lives outside Ketchum, Id and is doing very well.

Prompt her, she may post up?


2003

And back in 1972-73? I remember our first real multi-pitch being Point Beyond and sitting in that hole and looking down and across the Valley. "Look how small those trees look"!

tom Carter

Social climber
May 11, 2011 - 10:36pm PT

I think there is a parkinglot thread somewhere.

1978
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
May 11, 2011 - 10:38pm PT
nice bunch of photos tom - thanks for posting them up. Bet you have about a zillion more.
Allen Hill

Social climber
CO.
May 11, 2011 - 11:28pm PT
If there isn't a parking lot thread there really ought to be one. I doubt, other than a forum for parking lot attendants, that there are so many pictures of parking lots anywhere else on the web than here.
tom Carter

Social climber
May 12, 2011 - 12:18am PT

Walter and AB stitching up the bags during the rack up for Tribal Rite 1978.

Back then the lot was our yard! Now filled with the "Train-wreck" etc.

We are lucky to have shared those times together!


Here a classic! So, there we are living the dream at the site in the Meadows. Cash is still King and Yohalem has Zip, Zero, Nada, zilch. So he claims we can use him as a belay dummy. The brave lad starts squirming a bit when he sees all of us spring into action (this is CC up in the tree rigging the drop). Any way we decide it was high enough that we should perhaps pad the landing in case he went through the hamock!

He sailed. Hamock gave up the ghost and Yo collected a quarter? Big money back then!



Mr Yerian relaxing.
TC
tom Carter

Social climber
May 13, 2011 - 12:09am PT
A Mastadon photo of Tommy and Donny Herbert in the TM Parking lot a long time ago!

tom Carter

Social climber
May 13, 2011 - 12:20am PT
And yet another lot shot.

Likely suspects?

Rick Sylvester

Trad climber
Squaw Valley, California
May 13, 2011 - 12:30am PT
One thing that's blown my mind -- or would have if there was anything left to blow -- is the shot of Tim Harrison slacklining -- not to mention whilst juggling -- way back then. I never heard of slacklining back then, didn't think it began until a couple or whatever decades later.
Re. the baseball game shot, yes, definitely Paul Cowan leaning against the backstop fence. Under the category of anal retentiveness, Vandiver is the correct spelling. Under the category of T&A -- unfortunately, not the fun T&A, just the truth and accuracy version, I stand corrected about the Mt. Davidsoncross. I didn't know there was a bolt ladder. I though shinnying was the means of ascent.
Mentions of Clan Robertson harness reminds me of climbing with Brian Robertson on his first trip to the Valley and before he formed his company. He was on his way back from an expedition to Huandoy with Whillans. et al. Not being much of a free climber his ambition was to be Britain's top aid expert. Being something like 5'4', even shorter than I, he didn't have a lot going for him in that regard. We had an epic on the Leaning Tower, 2 bivies, ran out of water. Brian insisted on the even leads since the 4th pitch was the crux. What didn't help was that Madsen and Schmitz had just cleaned the route of excess bolts. Schmitz not wanting to set out on that project on the agreed upon day was supposedly what angered Madsen resulting in his upending, perhaps flipping, a fully laden table in Camp 4, as mentioned in a post under another Forum subject. I'll later post more on Madsen's anger, also mentioned in that Forum category, later. I did "Guides Wall" in the Tetons with him a month before his accident.
Brian had a hard time, took forever, on the 4th pitch. I cleaned, sans headlamp -- none of us had them then -- in the dark. It was too scary to traverse to supposedly one of the best ledges in the Valley, as suggested by its name, Ahwahnee. I'm still pissed (and want to sample it. Guess I'll have to do another west face route). So we bivied on lousy sloppy Guano Ledge. It was also damp. I remarked to Brian, "I guess it really is guano." "No it isn't. I pissed there, mon" "What!
Why'd you do that?!" "I was afraid if I pissed over the edge I'd hit you." "well, why didn't you doit somewhere else on the frickkin' ledge?" I had to have my bag dry cleaned afterward and that was a major hit on then penniless me.
So the next two pitches didn't get fixed, as was the customary strategy and as could be done with one rope, the haul line. The first was awkward , I was tired and it took me leading and Brian cleaning a long time. So we had a second bivy, atop pitch 8, I believe. I recall it as being a 1' wide by 2' long ledge with only a single quarter inch bolt -- well, that was the only granite bolt size then -- for belay. There must have been a back-up piton anchor but it was in the wrong place to help with the bivy. One person was going to sit on the ledge with knees drawn up to chin and the other was going to be hanging from the bolt in a belay seat. For some reason I gave Brian the choice, not that one position was better than the other. They were both just horrible in different ways. He elected the belay seat. A night spent in the seat does bad things to the back. Due to the position of the bolt the only thing that kept me from barndooring out was Brian in the seat. But whenever he moved I startled from whatever demi-sleep I was achieving and started swinging out over the dark void. Aarrggh! In addition and most dastardly of all perhaps, Brian had guzzled almost all of our gallon of water after his 4th pitch epic. I could excuse this saying he was British -- well, Scottish -- and not used to heat. I remember being so wiped out that I was barely able to make the only free move required on the route -- well, that was then -- the climb's final ( I think there made have been some easy scrambling above) move out of etriers onto a ledge. I was wiped out as badly as I'd ever been and the route had been murdered.
As far as the guzzling, I was choppered to El Cap's top later that same year when Brian and Kelly Minnick (we were together on the first ascent of Arches Terrace Direct with Bob Grow) dropped a note in a can or some such requesting rescue due to being out of water. They were told there were two gallons at Camp 5 and freaked when they found nothing. Barry Bates was the one who was lowered down to them. They jumared up. It turned out they'd mistaken a ledge a little below Camp 5 for Camp 5. The water was just a few feet above where they quit. It was hard to believe that they couldn't accomplish the few A1 pitches to the top, however thirsty they were. If they'd been on Baffin or some such where getting rescues isn't so easy, or impossible. It started me thinking for the first time that perhaps some rescuees should be charged. Brian, by the way, is a good guy, living in Boulder when I last had contact with him a couple or whatever of decades ago.
There was a thing about Grade Vs and me. I also had an epic with Rob Woods on my first time on Chouinard/Herbert -- again, two bivies. And with Carlos Buhler on one of the Quarter Domes.
By the way, Tom Kimbrough once told me that he'd climbed the Tower in a rainstorm. His description made it sound like being behind a waterfall. He said his partner and he never got wet and it seemed so cool that it sounded like the only way to do the route.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 13, 2011 - 01:22am PT
Here ya go!

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/375444/Old-Parking-Lot-photos
Rick Sylvester

Trad climber
Squaw Valley, California
May 13, 2011 - 02:50am PT
One other thing about Brian Robertson. He told me about EBs, had me mail order them from Graham Tiso's in Edinburgh. I think the pair cost me something like $14 and that included shipping. I was under the impression I was the first in the Valley to have them. But I got them too small (or wasn't willing to endure the pain for enhanced climbing) so I tossed them in the closet and kept using my Kronhofers. A while later I saw Bates using EBs, so I got a larger pair. John Dill weighed in, "EBS make things a grade easier!" And of course some time later there was the next revolution, sticky rubber, beginning with "Contacts" -- was that the correct name? -- and then of course the more popular Fires.
o-man

Trad climber
Paia,Maui,HI
May 13, 2011 - 04:26pm PT
In the early seventies Brian Robertson told me that my physical abilities so far exceeded my technical knowledge that he was sure that I was going to die!
Barcus

Social climber
San Luis Obispo, Ca.
May 13, 2011 - 04:28pm PT
BUMP!
tom Carter

Social climber
May 13, 2011 - 07:57pm PT
Rick come on brother - we need a few pics to go along with this history. Any shots will do!!
tom Carter

Social climber
May 13, 2011 - 08:06pm PT

An Allan Bard photo of Dave on their route on Brautigan Dome down the Toulumne River. The Rt was named after author Richard Brautigan.

Ever read any of his stuff?
mastadon

Trad climber
crack addict
May 13, 2011 - 11:33pm PT

Not my picture, Mr Carter (the picture of the Herbert boys).........
Shameless Yahoolihan

Trad climber
west malling, uk
May 14, 2011 - 05:18pm PT
TC - I thought it was 35 cents. I never had any money back then. Some things never change. For some reason I still have a Forrest hammock (the single point shoulder pincher. I rigged it with some one inch PVC to spread it a bit). Also, that is a GREAT photo of Liza, exactly as I remember her. The pic of Dave Birchieff is wonderful, too.
Rick: I think Brian must have been a wee bit taller, since I'm 5'4" and remember him as towering over me. Not Whillans, though.

I reminded Tom of this story from that time, but think it's more or less suitable for the thread. He and I spent a chemically modified night on Lembert Dome and the next morning went to the grill for some pancakes. He bet we could eat the largest stacks they could produce (those things were GLUTINOUS) and they grilled some oversized units that poured past the edges of the plates. I ate mine, but Tom couldn't finish his and since the bet was free cakes if they were ALL consumed I ate his, too. While he was rolling me back to the rescue site, we encountered Roger Breedlove walking down to the store. 'Roger! What happened to your leg', asked Tom. 'I had polio Tom'. Who asked, in all innocence: 'Last night?' (Hell of an observer that Carter fellow.) Roger used to impress his students at the Mtn School who were often skeptical about his ability to climb by doing some really tough bouldering moves on the way to their (very) easy practice climbs.

Then there was the time...
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
May 14, 2011 - 05:40pm PT
Camp four lot, 1978.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 14, 2011 - 05:48pm PT
Nice shot Rick!

More on Dave and Allan's excellent adventure on Brautigan Dome...

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=638639&msg=1267396#msg1267396

Tom- Would you please post that photo and any others from that climb on the thread? Thanks!
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
May 14, 2011 - 07:04pm PT
Rick - who is the guy in the front to Yabo's right?
tom Carter

Social climber
May 14, 2011 - 08:46pm PT

Ellie. Hey I can see a lot behind her!

Rik, no it's Ella Wood and Allan Bard. I think it is Bev's haul bag.

Come on post some up!!!

TC
tom Carter

Social climber
May 15, 2011 - 03:39pm PT
Liza in El Cap meadow 1973?

tom Carter

Social climber
May 16, 2011 - 05:22pm PT
Name these 3.

Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
May 16, 2011 - 05:25pm PT
Dave Altman on the left and Vern Clevenger on the right. don't know the guy in the center.
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
May 16, 2011 - 05:58pm PT
Mike, "who is the guy in the front to Yabo's right?"

Its Mike Lechlinski
tom Carter

Social climber
May 17, 2011 - 02:40am PT
David Altman, Bill Nichol and Vern with the Fury III in the back!
tom Carter

Social climber
May 18, 2011 - 12:55pm PT
Bill Nichol in the center with binos.

Here another of Millis and crew.


And another of the game day.

Maysho

climber
Soda Springs, CA
May 18, 2011 - 02:01pm PT
Mike White, Johnny Wallblum, Bob Ashworth...
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
May 18, 2011 - 04:42pm PT
Speaking of Mike White, does anyone have any news about him?
mastadon

Trad climber
crack addict
May 18, 2011 - 06:10pm PT

Whitey-third from the left at a party at his house last fall. As far as how he is: his story-telling hyperbole hasn't diminished an iota....

tom Carter

Social climber
May 18, 2011 - 07:45pm PT
Okay

Who can name all the above?

Couple of semi-difficult ones in there!!

TC
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
May 18, 2011 - 08:02pm PT
Tom Carter, third from the right, right? The next time someone sees Whitey give him my best regards.
Rick Sylvester

Trad climber
Squaw Valley, California
May 19, 2011 - 05:35am PT
Tom (Carter),
I'd love to post some pics, but give me a few months, or...? You've hit another of my many faults, organization. The one I really want to find is that of the fire crew with Werner, McKenzie, Bates et al. I'll try to find this sh*t. Cross your fingers and toes but please, don't hold your breath.

As far as Rpbertson's height, I could swear he was at least a couple of inches shorter than I. Being as I've never encounter all that many shorter than I, both guys and gals, I tend to remember this type of thing. And now, due to a recent physical exam, I find I've lost over an inch! There just really aren't all that many reasons to keep on living, climbing (one and the same of course). I won't be able to reach anything.
tom Carter

Social climber
May 19, 2011 - 02:02pm PT
Dood you are right on the $$$$$!

That was at White's "House-warming" party.

Burton showed up too and it was a gas!

He really worked his ass off building his re-tirement home - it is beautiful with all kinds of special White effects in the woodwork etc.

Oh yeah Phil Birdcheff drove up with CC too!

Rick S - you can do it!!!
tom Carter

Social climber
May 19, 2011 - 02:10pm PT

Here another of Timmy.

We hiked in to Vogelsang and put up a couple of routes on Fletcher Pk back in 1973 back in 1973-74? Linda B was working at the HS Camp and supplied us with treats in the evening -what a sweetie. Anyway I saw in the Secor guide that someone had climbed both of them and re-named and bolted them - Modesto Surfer? and/or something. Oh well.

Timmy was the real deal. Took CC and me on our first 5.10 NW Face of Lambert an amazing evening running off the top with lightening striking all around, buzzing biners standing away from you on the rack etc. Classic!
rottingjohnny

Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
May 20, 2011 - 01:17am PT
Sylvester....You've lost an inch..? Is that from excess porn veiwing...?
nita

Social climber
chica de chico, I don't claim to be a daisy.
May 20, 2011 - 01:45am PT
Fuzzy, Fun Pictures!!...Are you sure that's Bill Nichols with the binos?


edit: Let's see them..they are way fun to look at.
tom Carter

Social climber
May 20, 2011 - 03:53pm PT
Nita!

Absolutely, that is Mr Bill. First person I met in my first year in the Valley that had climbed El Cap. So relaxed and easy going. He talked to us (Liza and me) and kinda made us feel we might someday be able to do it too!

I remember we met at Manure Pile when you could drive right up to the rock. He had his VW van parked there inches from After 7!!!

Funny.

I've got some more.

Shameless Yahoolihan

Trad climber
west malling, uk
May 20, 2011 - 10:01pm PT
Am I mistaken or does Billy have lens covers on his binocs? He may well have been the worst of all the Camp 4 cooks. Garlic soup and 2-ton cakes. I'd rather scrounge from Mathis any day.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
May 20, 2011 - 11:36pm PT
Mike White, Johnny Wallblum, Bob Ashworth...
Is that the same johnny wallblum who used to work in maintenance for the NPS?? sure looks familiar.
sibylle

Trad climber
On the road again!
May 20, 2011 - 11:51pm PT
Racking up , Camp 4, Unknown guy, me, Bev, Dan Asay
sibylle

Trad climber
On the road again!
May 21, 2011 - 12:01am PT
Climbing with my Dad in Tuolumne in the 70s
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
May 21, 2011 - 12:13am PT
what a fabulous thread. Tom, Sibylle thanks for your additions!!
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 21, 2011 - 12:28am PT
Yahoolihan and Sibylle [sic: Sybelle] posting up! Yay!
tom Carter

Social climber
May 21, 2011 - 02:32am PT

Nice, keep em coming!
tom Carter

Social climber
May 21, 2011 - 02:33am PT
Can't have that photo that large.

tom Carter

Social climber
May 24, 2011 - 10:14pm PT
rottingjohnny

Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
May 24, 2011 - 11:59pm PT
penguin feeding it's chick...
tom Carter

Social climber
May 25, 2011 - 01:53am PT
Yep Bobo.

Anyone remember the gum chewing contest?
tom Carter

Social climber
Aug 1, 2011 - 03:41pm PT
Since I was just in that parking lot .....

As I recall it totaled 27 pieces?


Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Aug 20, 2011 - 01:43pm PT
jstan

climber
Aug 20, 2011 - 01:56pm PT
I shouldn't interfere, but I will.
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Aug 20, 2011 - 02:19pm PT
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Aug 20, 2011 - 02:45pm PT
Randy Hamm, Joe Faint, Moira Donahoe
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Aug 20, 2011 - 04:13pm PT
Randy Hamm and myself going shopping at Joe Brown's in North Wales.
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Aug 20, 2011 - 04:52pm PT
not really a Camp 4 event, but it should have been. When I saw the large plastic trashcan full of everclear punch, I know this would be a party to remember, though its still very blurry.
Tobia

Social climber
GA
Aug 20, 2011 - 10:18pm PT
Nice to see a picture of Bob Finn. First person that ever took me climbing. Not a camp 4 picture but...
maldaly

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Aug 21, 2011 - 12:23am PT
This was in the early '80s and I was in the Valley with my GF Lisa and a friend Cathy. We'd been craging for a few weeks and we're about to head back ot Colorado when we ran in to Todd Skinner and Paul Piana, friends we knew from Laramie and Veedauwoo. On our last day we decided to cook pancakes so we busted out our Svea 123s and Todd produced some of his family's 138 year old sourdough starter. We cooked cakes all morning and I think, fed most of Camp 4. We didn't have real frying pans. The cakes were cooked in the lids of our Sigg pots and I think every one of them had a burned spot in the middle. Check this guy out: He's eating a 'cake out of his frisbee and his spoon is tied to his coffee cup.

What I remember most however, is that Todd and my GF hooked up and Cathy and I drove home alone.

Anyone recognize the guy with the frisbee?
tom Carter

Social climber
Aug 21, 2011 - 01:14am PT
Gypsy!

Great shots!

Thanks so much for posting.

Tom Carter
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Appalachia
Aug 21, 2011 - 08:54am PT
Camp Four in the late 1970s or early 1980s



survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Aug 21, 2011 - 10:30am PT
What I remember most however, is that Todd and my GF hooked up and Cathy and I drove home alone.


"She's living in L.A., with my best ol' ex friend Ray."

Ain't it the way?
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Aug 21, 2011 - 11:36am PT
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Aug 21, 2011 - 12:17pm PT
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Aug 21, 2011 - 01:17pm PT
Throwpie, the photo captioned "EB's and a swami belt. This is Chris someone. I think." on the first page looks very much like Randy Hamm.
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Aug 21, 2011 - 03:28pm PT
martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
Aug 21, 2011 - 06:09pm PT
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Aug 22, 2011 - 11:52am PT
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Aug 22, 2011 - 02:58pm PT
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Aug 22, 2011 - 11:36pm PT
My wife was leaning against the car in the Camp 4 lot in the early 80's and she felt it rocking like I was pushing it for a joke, turns around and no one was there. Then she heard the boulders crashing down the Sentinal gullies. It was a major earthquake.
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Aug 23, 2011 - 06:57am PT
throwpie

Trad climber
Berkeley
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 13, 2011 - 07:22pm PT
Its a trip seeing the shot of Cowboy Larry Moore. Does anyone know what ever became of him? I did one of my first climbs with him. The Cleft... "Its a good beginner climb"
Shameless Yahoolihan

Trad climber
west malling, uk
Sep 17, 2011 - 10:04am PT
I was just in a reminiscent mood and thought to check and see if there were any additions since last I looked at this site. Thanks TC, Sybille and especially, Gypsy. Also visible in the photo of Andy Cox's wake are the brothers Bierchieff in the rear left and James Wright who, with George Myers, was with Andy in King's Canyon.

Andy, Mike White, Ron Kagel, Drone Stevens and I did a moonlit ascent of After Six one inebriated winter evening. I don't remember whose car nor who was driving, but we went around the loop the wrong way, no headlights. Eerie, scary and quite beautiful.
mastadon

Trad climber
crack addict
Sep 17, 2011 - 02:28pm PT

Ron Burgner-Camp 4, 1973 or so.
Burgner was a badass Northwest climber and a friend and regular climbing partner of Jim Madsen.
Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Oct 10, 2011 - 04:23pm PT
Bumping this for Hankster Harmonics!

Plus, it's one of my favorite threads. More pictures please!
Philosopher

Big Wall climber
Sacramento, California
Mar 24, 2012 - 03:32pm PT

Hi All:

There are great shots that bring back so much.....God, were we having fun!

Love to Gypsy, and I continue to miss my best climbing partner ever: Randy Hamm.
I retain the little boat in a bottle he made for my Yosemite wedding, and I still smoke the rare pipes of his you sweetly bequeathed to me.

Love, Mark McPherran
mark_mcpherran@sfu.ca
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Mar 24, 2012 - 04:23pm PT
Sierra Ledge Rat, A bigger enlargement of the bulletin board photo would be cool. The original looks pretty legible otherwise.
john hansen

climber
Mar 24, 2012 - 05:30pm PT
In the camp four pic of all the notes on the board I think I see one of Tami's rats in the lower right. Would be interesting to see a crop of that.


Looks like there are a few cartoons in there.

Edit: this is the best I can do. Notice the note on the green paper about the earthquakes continuing,, would be around 1980.

Also you can zoom in by holding the ctrl key down and hitting the + key. Zoom out same except hit the - key. I seem to remember the DLFA??



Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 24, 2012 - 05:53pm PT
Devil's Lake Fukness Assoc. if I'm not mistaken...or close.
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Mar 24, 2012 - 10:55pm PT
Good that some craftsmanship is still around to appreciate Kevin. The place has changed, but some things remain unchanged.
I've got some things near the summit of Cathedral and every year I go back and visit the site....never been touched by another being. Those things there get to enjoy the seasons and the views, east to west and north to south.
Peace
Jan

Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
Mar 24, 2012 - 11:25pm PT
I too found my old campsite when I was in the Valley two years ago and it was also out of bounds.
I was only able to recognize it by the familiar boulders nearby. All was nostalgia for the best summer I ever had.
steve s

Trad climber
eldo
Mar 25, 2012 - 12:29am PT
YO Punters, The rat in question on the camp 4 board was drawn by myself and was originally designed by none other then OLD Bill Russell himself. The fuk-nes rat was a mascot of the infamous DLFA(Devil,s Lake Fuk-nes Association)and was usually drawn holding a martini glass(international symbol of fuk-nes) This drawing can be found in the best and worst places thru out the world. For you laymen,fuk-nes is anything that can get you f*#ked up...usually but not limited to alcholic beverages and other items.
peace and fuk-nes. drink to puke. Steve S. x-dlfa (retired)
BBA

climber
OF
Apr 7, 2012 - 12:57am PT
Here's a Camp 4 photo from negatives I'm finally getting around to scanning. 1962. He's so happy because one day he will be a millionaire.
Bill Amborn


john hansen

climber
Apr 7, 2012 - 02:08am PT
That is very interesting steve... hope to hear some more about this.
hooblie

climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
Apr 7, 2012 - 07:42am PT
saddle bucks! nothing but respect:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=go-az0sm2HI
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Apr 7, 2012 - 01:58pm PT
cool BBA

I am a thinkin that is Art, "Dah Move" Gran's VW? or is it Swedlunds? and the little guy, so clean and innocent looking!
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Apr 7, 2012 - 02:10pm PT
Peter ought to appreciate this one.

Peter Mayfield and Marc Chauvin.

I think Peter was about 15 right then.

Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
the secret topout on the Chockstone Chimney
Apr 16, 2012 - 03:01pm PT
Sterling Example for the Youth bump;-)
Don'tKnowHim

Social climber
California
Apr 17, 2012 - 09:16pm PT
Wow, if Brian Birmingham (Mouse) is still in this sphere, I'd love to know! I used to work with him in Berkley at the North Face!
tom Carter

Social climber
Apr 18, 2012 - 04:13pm PT
I remember Mouse!

Here's one, name that man and the ledge!!!

tom Carter

Social climber
Apr 19, 2012 - 12:33am PT
Looks just like ..... ?
throwpie

Trad climber
Berkeley
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2012 - 12:48am PT
Hey Tom. Not sure if you remember me but we crossed paths often back in the olden days. Last time (I think) I saw you was on Stone Groove. I recall you leading it...Alan Bard was there too. Mouse is still in the house...search Mouse from Merced.
Cheers! Steve Walstead
tom Carter

Social climber
Apr 19, 2012 - 11:26am PT
Wow! That was a while back, eh?

Yes, I remember that day. You still climbing?

Do you remember his friend Ike?

Great guys, they attempted to put me on the right path (regarding climbing) during my first climbs back in 1971!

Ash worth was another who stepped in and gave solid advice-he saw how green we were, he cared. Seller man.
throwpie

Trad climber
Berkeley
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2012 - 11:50am PT
I remember Ike. Ever since I started this thread, it's been a trip down memory lane, or maybe I should say a thrutch up memory crack. Getting older is a trip, but it does give an interesting perspective.
I'm not seriously climbing...bouldering a bit but I always tweak something trying to crank something I shouldn't be cranking...The term Armchair Mountaineer seems to fit me now.
Windsurfing and surfing are the big thrills these days. My rock rat youth is still vivid and I consider it a gift to have shared it with all my pals...we were (are) truly lucky f*#kers.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
Apr 19, 2012 - 05:45pm PT
Well, the last time I saw Steve "Slings" Williams, it was in the Factory Outlet in Berkeley. He'd worked in a tungsten mine over on the East Side and had a gut the size of Gypsy's in that picture. He claimed it was all Budweiser. That is one of the best photos of him you will ever see.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
Apr 19, 2012 - 06:32pm PT
My wad is on Oakshott. I mean, I bet it's he in the middle behind the binocs (who guided Millis up the Salathe, wasn't that how it happened?).
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
Apr 19, 2012 - 06:54pm PT
"Baseball been berry berry good to me."---Garret M, SNL.

It never came to fruition, but I tried to convince The North Face's off-shoot softball team, "Fear of Flying," that we should challenge the "Men of 4" to a game some holiday weekend. We were eager, but the members were not able to mobilize enough players to do so; we all had jobs in the Bay Area. It would have been interesting. We won a class A league in Alameda during the late 70s. I was the pitcher, some of the time, and the weakest hitter, by far. Turns out a left thumb improves your batting and your golf, and probably your sex life. And your climbing. I'm berry berry glad I didn't have an afro like poor Roger was cursed with, but at least he could bat worth a sh#t. (Zing!)

The funniest softball exhibition game I ever saw was in Alameda between the Oakland Raiders and the Alameda cops. Mickey Marvin, a Raider lineman, dropped trou and mooned the crowd for some reason, but he was big enough not to need one. The Raiders killed the cops, as you might expect.
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Apr 19, 2012 - 08:17pm PT
So Mouse from Merced, I remember living in that "studio" apartment in Berkeley. I cannot remember that we had a telephone; but somehow I remember we called you to tell you that we were leaving for Europe and perhaps you wanted to come up sometime (from Ventura?) and apply for Randy's job at the North Face. You and Dolores drove all night and were there in the morning. Ha ha. Lee Bibby lived in our closet, Randy and I slept in one room, you and Dolores in the kitchen, Larry Jones in his van in our back driveway and Dick Ellsworth in his yellow van in our front driveway. Wasn't that a time...?
throwpie

Trad climber
Berkeley
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2012 - 08:49pm PT
North Face Factory Outlet...the home of the Ripstop Geese. Thats about as obscure as it comes.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
Apr 19, 2012 - 09:27pm PT
Obscure? I thought I have been shedding light. You're destroying my self-confidence, Pie.

And Gypsy, I can tell you have a similar problem, in that your memory is not as accurate as it should be. I left Dolores in Oxnard and came to Berkeley alone. Larry Jones had no van. It was my Ford Econoline, the DORF. And Ross was the one I replaced. Not that it matters. I talked to Malcolm McG the other day, and he's well, as is Patty.
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Apr 20, 2012 - 03:44pm PT
Well, Mouse, that's my story and I'm stickin' to it.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
Apr 20, 2012 - 04:18pm PT
I knew you would. Thank ya fer the invitation to stay there on Berkeley's presidential street (after Ike the Dwightman). And thank you for the kind email, as well. Now I can get on with my life. See ya on the radio?
throwpie

Trad climber
Berkeley
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2012 - 07:11pm PT
tom Carter

Social climber
Apr 21, 2012 - 01:48am PT
Wasn't Drone on that search too?

I remember something about rattlesnakes in bushes etc etc....

Was Whitey up there looking too?
throwpie

Trad climber
Berkeley
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2012 - 12:18pm PT
Who had the snake bit finger, black as charcoal with two puss leaking fang marks? Was it Skeet? I don't think it was from Andy's search.
tom Carter

Social climber
Apr 21, 2012 - 02:14pm PT
Think it was Drone Stevens?

Here's another one of the elusive Bard. what Route???

Also posted on Guidos "Every picture..."

mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
Apr 21, 2012 - 02:35pm PT
It's nearly noon?
That finger belonged to Dr. Drone. I was down in Okie Flats, Ventura Co., being married with no kids, traveling to the Valley as often as I could, and that is where I was when the Kings River drama took place. Mathis visited us and we got mostly skinny from him. I'm in the middle of sucking up to Tom Carter at the moment. I came over here to ST to look for a photo of him and Whitey and others standing in front of an open garage door. Try searching for that, my friend, instead of worrying about such pissy little things as digits with owies. I'll do a Schwarzenegger.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
Apr 21, 2012 - 03:04pm PT
Good, eff that, great photo, Tom. Aside from which route, a question we will answer, trust me, there are other concerns. Is he one of those inhalers? I have some of my own, but none of them art a patch on this guy in the photo. That is Fireplace Bluffs in the back ground and this is def EC, I tink, whaddya, tink? Another concern, one of Dr. Phil's classic lines, "What was he tinkin'?" And what was he tokin'? Not the same as inhalin' but let's let greater men decide those definitions.
He's mulling the lines from Beast of Burden, "Am I tough enough? I walked for miles, my feet are hurtin'." And Nurses and Maids.
The era, the actual time, the photographer, all kinds of sh#t go into and out of our head when we look at these pics. I see by Walstead's FB pages that he's impressed.
I just got my computer, and can expect the scanner soon. Jim Shirley offered me this rig last week in exchange for my work (to come) scanning his slides, which go back to 10 BC and the Factory Outlet's earliest days. His mail order catalog department was in the rear of the 1234 5th St. address. I mean, if you do MOs have an address that is simple to remember, right? Any how, we'll be in for a treat when that scanner happens. His first catalog project featured, I think, the Brooks Range ski trip of Ned Gilette, Wayne Merry and another cat.

I remember Ike.
Throwpie.

Ike was my brother-in-law, hitched to Shari, Dolores' oldest sibster.
I like Ike. His dad is Ike, too. They are the Ikes Jr. and Sr. Their full names are Isaac Keith Edie, Jr. and Sr., respectively.
Junior (we never called him that back in the day, but we're sure gonna annoy him by doing so) came to the Valley with Shari and he and I were good partners. He could follow anything I led and I thought he could have been much, much better, but he had little enough time to play. After our move to his neighborhood, Okie Flats, on 101 just out of Snard, Ventura Co., he taught me to surf. He even put me to work on his pump installing rig on occasion, but I worked out in the oil-patch, mostly. We'd head out to the beach after work. On many weekends we got to cllimb: Stoney, JT, and Tahquitz/Suicide. When we moved to Berz we managed several trips to Tahquitz. We even made it to the Leap one summer when they visited us.
The onliest climbing photo I have of that particular trip is on my wall. I took it from a b.s. on The Line. I tossed a bunch of shots in the past because they were typical ass or head shots.
E. Buttress MCR, The Line, Haystack Crack, a couple of half-ass tries on the Steck-Salathe, Oasis to Rim on GPA, and several in that realm of difficulty; lots of JT shorties; and a number of things at Tockrock.
Later, having gone solo, I moved back to his house and then lived with his uncle, Rex Edie, still in Okie Flats, and I worked at installing pumps and drilling water wells, which got me in top shape. I was soon climbing with Jim Shirley regularly over by the movie ranch in Box Cyn. in that other Valley. We likewise jammed to Tahquitz regularly.
So that was Ike. He's still pretty hang-loose, and I would vote for him for President because......now say it together, kids......

I like Ike.

I believe the time has come to to reveal that all these years TC has been sending cash through the mail.
And there is enough altitude in the photo to suggest it's all the way up a wall. The SW face is obscured by the rock which cuts off Fireplace Bluffs. The Muir Wall ends close to the Nose, which shares the same viewpoint.
Muir Wall, within two pitches of the finish?
tom Carter

Social climber
Apr 21, 2012 - 11:33pm PT
Okay Okay Okay... some questions....

Did you know Miller from Ventura or meet earlier/later? Who named him Millis?...Millis-probably named hisself - right?

You starched shirts at the Mt Shop, right? Who else worked there? Leonard Singer? Farrell? Craig Patterson? How about guides-was Whitey and Drone and Fig working? Ashworth? Birdcheff?

Sh#t the answers may help cut loose some barnacles, past fig-ments?

Remember "Smooth-trail" living in Degans Dorms (that dive looked GOOD)? And in 4 first thing in the morning reading out a page of the "Good Book"... "Ladies and Gentlemen, Uncles and Aunts and all yous peoples in the Levi pants listen up to the Book and then we shall commence to rolling... " and at this point the page would be torn out of said book and utilized as the ZigZags were nowhere to be found.

mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
Apr 21, 2012 - 11:59pm PT
It's okleedoklee if you get impatient with me and my rambles, Kemosob.
But do check out the final add-on to my previous post.
No starch in our shirts. Just crispy creases from ceaseless re-folding. Len Singer was the manager and his boss, Tom, was a Curry-favoring suck-butt.
Len sang our praises to Tom because he liked us.
Ashworth's known as "Seller Man?"
Dillis Millis was likely named by Mathis. It sure sounds silly enough and Jeff's clever enough to think of it. I'll ask him.
You say Farrel worked in the shop? It must have been after me. Apparently, the plan was to hire Stubbs after I got "terminated" by Curry in February of 1972 (terminated for the second time--hardly a record, but a source of pride nonetheless).
I never heard of Patterson.
White and Drone were not on the payroll because it was February when I got tanked, mid-March when we left for Snard, and they didn't need guides so early in the season, likely.
Who was Smooth-Trail? I knew Larry Jones, one of the original Flames from Merced was living in Degnan's with his block of black Primo hash.
We didn't have a bet on the El Cap photo. Sh#t, You send cash, too.
What was I thinkin'?
Does that thing block out the i in sh#t on its own? Let's just find out.
It do! F*#king technology.
tom Carter

Social climber
Apr 22, 2012 - 01:08am PT
No bet but you won! The Muir it is - but lower in the Grey Bands on a ledge used by the TM and somebody he refers to as "The Midget".
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
Apr 22, 2012 - 01:23am PT
TC, who the fluck is the TM and what does he have in common with little people?
I'm an honest broker, broke-dick, too. I confess to you and all the world that Tornado gave me the tiniest little hint about the Muir. That still doesn't excuse TM, whoever he is, for whatever it was he had goin' on with "The Midget." But we have an active imagination. Many "tools" on our climbing "racks" lead to various speculation: long dong, short thick, long thin, nuts in all shapes and sizes, your hammer. The list goes on. And so do I.
tom Carter

Social climber
Apr 23, 2012 - 11:46am PT
Mouse

Cat between Vern and Dave Altman with the binos is Billy Nickel

Bill was the first person I met who had climbed El Cap. I remember sitting beside his vw van that was parked so close to After 7 that you couldn't get to the opening moves!

He told us how it was up there...Liza and I were spellbound. It was during that story of his ascent that I knew I would do all I could to climb the Nose someday. I'd fallen in love.

Great friends in that Valley
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
Apr 23, 2012 - 01:21pm PT
I'm wondering if you have a real job. What's yr gig? cuz mine is Social Security. I appreciate the time you are taking with me. It is a man's most precious commodity. Did I answer your q. about the Millis, and how we met?
I've posted stories about that like on Largo's Led Zep topic.
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Apr 23, 2012 - 01:24pm PT
here's one of Werner in the valley in 1986 i think..

JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Apr 23, 2012 - 02:52pm PT
Bump for good memories.

Has anyone seen Oakeschott lately? I last climbed with him in the summer of 1976, when we got a couple of pitches up a new route on Drug Dome that, as far as I can tell, has never been finished.

I don't think I've seen Dave Altman since we graduated from Berkeley in 1973, though one of my clearer memories (during an era where clear memories -- and clear minds -- were a rarity) were of he and I trying to teach ourselves general category theory (better known as abstract nonsense) while we waited out a storm in the lounge at the Lodge.

John
tom Carter

Social climber
Apr 23, 2012 - 03:42pm PT
Dennis is great. Quite the organic farmer up in Swall Meadows - he has an amazing garden outside a beautiful home he build years ago.

Recently:

Funny, I tracked Altman down through Walter when I was looking at some math questions nearly 10 years ago. He sounded well, but I have not seen him in eons.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Apr 23, 2012 - 03:44pm PT
Thanks, Tom.

John
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
Apr 28, 2012 - 01:00pm PT
Wad a great shot of Oakschott!

I did not meet him but one or two times. He and Millis took to the Salathe in '74, just after Doug and I had bumbled our way up. The Millis told me that there was no confusion on route-finding with the excellent topo I had drawn up for him and it was good they had it because they were going with only nuts (no cams, Friends). I wonder what that was like for Oakschott?

I mean, two Dennises, a rack of nuts, and a nut for a partner? I believe it was DO's first wall climb.

Dennis, old boy, you look like you need a good feed at Cruz and Willie's...

Who remembers the Mexican food and BEER at the "end of the road" in, well, near Mariposa?

And where is Bruce Price from El Portal, the bus-driver with the '57 Chevy?
Sierra Ledge Rat

Social climber
Retired in Appalachia
Apr 29, 2012 - 03:41am PT
Here you go john hansen

tom Carter

Social climber
Apr 29, 2012 - 12:21pm PT
Mouse et al

The Story goes that Millis talked like Donald Duck the entire time on the wall driving DO crazy!!!

True story
Chris Brent

Sport climber
San Francisco
Apr 29, 2012 - 12:30pm PT
JEleazarian,
Dave Altman is still in Berkeley, teaching outdoor climbing classes and running the weight room at Iron Works Climbing gym. Did a great anchor class with him a few months ago, so many interesting stories.
chez

Social climber
chicago ill
Apr 29, 2012 - 03:31pm PT
Nice fness rat Steve S
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
Apr 30, 2012 - 04:08am PT
Tom, he could always have been worse! In so many ways, too. You never knew what was coming next. But he must've been in a fear state, compensating, eh?

I have the poetry well in hand. I rewrote the thing I mailed you. Burn what I sent. Oh, yeah, I keep forgetting; new century. Look at "Offwidth Help" for Peter Paan. It was myself and Jeff on 5.9 OW.

For my short version on Millis try the last posts on "A Letter from Mark Klemens."

I got a ride to YV for next weekend. Looking forward to LCR as a start. It depends on how I feel, of course, as to further goals. I hope I get some pics if I can afford a cheap camera. I'm looking better than DO but it is hard to tell in some pics.
Thanks for the brief on DM & DO.
Fuzzywuzzy

climber
suspendedhappynation
Apr 30, 2012 - 01:13pm PT
Glad to hear it. I will go look for those posts.

Get up there and enjoy.

DO said The quacking was funny for the first couple of pitches - but the duck-speak got to him eventually and I think I remember him telling me that he went through the full gamet of emotions before he resorted to begging Miller to cease and desist to no avail!

Do you remember when Millis took that nasty fall on the Salathe (an earlier attempt)? He caught the rope between his legs -turned his nuts black and blue. He would sit out on the rounds at Post Office at the Village snagging most anybody strolling by, "Was up on The Catain you know... took a whipper .... check out my nuts".

He was wearing shorts soooo big he had a knot tied in the waist. Hilarious!

All of a sudden I'm Fuzzywuzzy - anyway it's Carter.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
May 3, 2012 - 06:25pm PT
I remember blueballs. This sort of thing happens to one's nutsack. In HS I did it to Mathis with my foot (total mistake, we were horsing around) and his pair did the same thing. And our fellow Flame, Larry, was whipped around by an arm and hit a metal support for the breezeway roof with his crotch. Same thing.

Climbing harnesses can save you from this type of occurrence. Millis was not wearing one, I heard it so, I think. I wuz always fuzzy on the details, Wuzz. And I knew who you were. I have Breedlove's list of pseudonyms he gave me. You are on that list. Roger is a scholar. I bet he's a pack rat, too. I can't believe the story about the Bridwell shoes, though. He probably has the pair, just too funking cool to bring 'em out. Or saves them to play in.

:), Roger.
Shameless Yahoolihan

Trad climber
west malling, uk
May 8, 2012 - 05:45am PT
Throwpie -- It was Drone who got snakebit and it was on the search for Andy. Mathis, I believe, racked up his ankle. Everyone got poison oak. James Wright and George almost got busted. The Fresno County sherrifs were as#@&%es. Some things never change.

Tom and Mouse -- yes, Millis' nuts were enormous. And persisted through much of that season, or at least his behavior did.

and Tom -- those are great pics of Al. And of Billy.I'd never recognize Oakshott without his red and yellow rugby shirt.

Because of this thread and my vocal reminiscences about the early 70s in the Valley and Meadows I've been asked to present a talk about them to a local climbing club. For some strange reason, Spaniards are intrigued by stories of Franco-era decadence before there were Fires & Friends (unless you ckimbed with Jardine and signed the waver). Sad to say, all my slides and pics were lost in '76 in a flood in Colorado. Anyone who wants to send me pics is welcome. They'd be acknowledged. Or if YOU speak Spanish, were there and want to visit northern Spain you can give the talk.

Oh.. for any who might be interested and aren't armed: I have relocated to the Cordillera Cantabrica of northern Spain. Great limestone.

Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
May 8, 2012 - 01:23pm PT
David,

Just use picture from ST in your slide show. There are classic pictures in lots of old threads. Copy them onto a PC slide show, you'll be good to go.

Best,

Roger
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
Aug 25, 2012 - 03:10am PT
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
Aug 25, 2012 - 03:10am PT
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
Aug 25, 2012 - 03:11am PT
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
Aug 25, 2012 - 07:33am PT
"I remember Ike."--Throwpie

splitter

Trad climber
Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
Aug 25, 2012 - 07:48am PT
"I wonder what that was like for Oakshott"

Dennis O was a damn good freeclimber. So he must have enjoyed that aspect of it. Millis referred to the climb as "the generation gap climb" that is what he told me anyway. Millis never went into into great detail in regards to what he meant or whatever, he just left it at that. DO was prollie around 18-19 or so, Millis maybe 26 or so. Not that big a gap. So, i never quit understood what he was talking about.

Climbed with DO on the first 2-3 pitches of a new route he started in'74 on the Apron. Might have been called Tightrope. Way run out.Last time i saw DO, we were shoveling snow off of some home/log cabin for wages. Winter of 83/84. I would like to see a pic of his home in S. M.! That is great that he has a home of his own!!
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
Aug 25, 2012 - 01:23pm PT
Dillis was like as not seeing the difference between the amount of aid he had done using pins in comparison to DO. It was, I understood, Oakschnott's first attempt at a Grade VI.

Dillis took my topo, listing the aid rack we had used (heavy on iron), made substitutions, and carried no pins that I know of. They did it all clean. It sort of represents the difference between young climbers who were indoctrinated by the ablutomaniacal teachings of gurus Doug Robinson, RR and Chouinard, and the ones who had started out using pins, like Dillis and myself.

Technology gap is more like it.

Whippersnappers vs. Donald Duck-talkers.
throwpie

Trad climber
Berkeley
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2012 - 04:34pm PT
Mouse...that blond fellow with Mathis is Mike Dwyer, Merced boy and good friend of mine. I think. Many moons have passed.
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Aug 27, 2012 - 12:53am PT
Those Gypsy pics are so rad.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
Aug 27, 2012 - 01:38am PT

As you can tell, the comment I made is sort of true. This guy could be Randy. It could be Timmy. I liked the shot of Annie and Randy hamming it up.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Sep 9, 2012 - 09:46pm PT

Jeff Mathis, aka the Muskrat, aka the Reverend, aka Smooth-Trail, aka Jefe.

We have known each other since I moved here to Merced, 1961. He roped me into this climbing gig. Back when I got work in the Mtn. Shop ('71) he was still living in 4, later on in a cave over underneath the talus below Sentinel, then in Degnan's Dorms.

He kept a kitchen wherever he camped and was a credible camp cook then and has gotten more better with experience. The opening post by Throwpie loosened up Jeff's tongue as soon as he saw the photo. Throwpie's done a good thing. Thanks, dood. He's nosing the bait, but we'll have to practice patience. Mathis is a 'mossback' as he is not computer literate, hasn't the slightest bit of interest in getting a computer. I'm afraid it's gonna take a concerted effort and have little hope of its success. He's pretty set in his ways.

For what it's worth, I got him to tell me a few things. Last evening when he called and we decided to get together today he told me a Roy M. story. Roy has told me he knows Mathis, and the name he uses is the Reverend. Jeff is an officially sanctioned minister of Universal Life and so it responsible for marrying off Millis, which didn't take, and marrying off Bill Nickell (absolutely the correct spelling) and Lauren Nickell, which apparently has taken. gotta be 25+ yrs on the books now.

IIf you look at the OP the Rev has a digit taped up and Limber Linda H., in front of him, has a crutch. He got his finger crunched climbing The Yawn and pretty much that was enough to sour him on rock climbing. Fingers can't wear helmets, that's true. The 'bookshelf' is not that at all, it's Jeff's kitchen shelving. Yoho mooched and so did many others. He was a scratch pank maker, too. No Krusteaz.

He got on trails and got nick-named Smooth-Trail, but apparently it only was for Carter's use, according to the horse's mouth. Also, Jeff told me this about Tarbuster and Bruce Hawkins. They had stopped at the Iron Door in Groveland after voyaging to one of the first two Eastside reunions. Jeff's then-GF, Debbie-Debbie, was sitting near enough at the bar to overhear the climbing brags and she asked if the stories that Jeff had been filling her with were true, they were so bizzare. Roy was taken aback by this woman's effrontery. He gathered up his wounded Camp 4 pride and pronounced these immortal words,
The Reverend NEVER LIES!!! [Bitch!!!] That's loyalty!!!
Bump-de-bump-bump for Tarbuster Attitude!!!

mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Sep 9, 2012 - 10:48pm PT

At the softball game, Jeff told me this afternoon, that he had a sit-down somewhere down on the third base line, out of the shot that Gene Foley made. I foget who he was sitting with, even though he told me just ninety minutes ago, while he's 'membering things from 40 years ago. The tricks that memory plays are many. He and I are blessed with fairly accurate memories. But we always over-estimate our abilities and capacities. A case in point


The Dood asked (and I have questions for the Dood, but the account's de-activated---anyone know him? dare to fill me in on who why?) about how Dillis Millis was named.

It was I, said the Mouse from Merced, to the Little Red Dood. I named the Millis.
Jeff just reminded me, and I take his word for it, because everyone who knows him can tell you the Reverend NEVER LIES!!!
Jeff could not remember specifically where or exactly when this Baptism occurred; however, he assured me that I had, in a fit of literary fervor, written the fateful words,
Dinner Millis
. sown in my hard-cover notebook for literary fervor fits. (I am reporting problems with my writing system here, which is that when I try to fit in a "bold" or other formatting tag, I lose the ability to edit the content for typos. In a long post it is a real drag. Is it happening across the site or is it my system?) I am sorry for the interruption to our program. But I can't even back-scroll past the last parenthesis.
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
Sep 9, 2012 - 11:09pm PT
I enjoy the Bardini pics. When Carter and him got going it was a riot.

Those two should have gone into comedy. Get rich doing a show for a few months and then spend lavishly for the rest of the year.



BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
Sep 9, 2012 - 11:12pm PT
As for the Devil's Lake Fuc%ness Society, I didn't really know much about them. Every evening I would hear an occasional shout of:

"Puke With Force!!!"

Also, those guys ran around drawing on every bathroom wall in the valley these cryptic messages:

"Topper is real."

"Dino too."

I think that Dino was accompanied by a dinosaur drawing, but it has been a while. Swilliam later filled me in on a little, but nobody has ever divulged the meaning of the bathroom graffiti to me.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 9, 2012 - 11:15pm PT
God, all those years in Camp 4 in the 70's and nary a photo to show for it.....spilled acid on the lens.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Sep 9, 2012 - 11:20pm PT
Pressing on, here is the Rev's take on people in the Foley softball photo.
Starting on the left, he ID-ed Terry Pintola (not Pimental) as the catcher.
Paul Cowan is the pole leaner. Bruce Hawkins behind Paul. Kid Carrot with his back to us. Chris Wagner (?). Dick Ellsworth, bearded, glasse. Pettigrew beneath the swing of the bat by Mighty Cock. Beardo in the flat cap, ? Then the venerable, loveable Bobby Ashworth.

Chris van Diveer, in the bent posture characteristic of vD. :), Chris!
Got my Jumars?

Bruce Brossman. Steve Sutton.

Falkenstein and Kauk sitting (?).

Tim Harrison, So Cool in beach wear! Then Jeff skips to Werner, but I think he skipped--is that George Meyers?!

Tim Fitzgerald might be behind WB.

He didn't ID Mark Chapman, nor can I, never having met him.

So there is the latest on the shot heard round the Valley.

There's a Jeff Mathis on the Angels, but he's known for lying to the umps, and we all swear that our Jeff Mathis, the Reverend, never lies.

The Reverend reminds his acolytes please to keep sending your cash, checks, and money orders to him in Groveland, CA, and the Lord's blessings will flow, children, they will flow like the Mighty Merced into your homes and hearts.

Amen.
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Sep 13, 2012 - 09:23pm PT
It is Randy Hamm in the blue sweater and red hat in the above photo series--would recognize that sweater and hat anywhere. Randy and Tim did look similar and they always goofed on it. Randy got that hat when he lived in June Lake (just before I met him). The dogs brought it in and he wore it for years and years. I think the sweater was a Christmas present from his mom. I still have his EB's. I don't think I have ever seen these photos before though. Thanks. Wonderful to sit back and read all the posts and think about those days of cave-living and bandit camping. Mouse be sure to say hi to Jeff for me. These daze I spend my senility living in the Blue Ridge Mountains and hiking on the granite island of Corsica.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Sep 14, 2012 - 11:26pm PT
Solid, my sister!
That's good to know.
I want to compliment you on the lush photo on FB and I'm looking forward to listening in soon's I can.
Don't wander too, far, Gyp.

BTW, Mathis el Jefe was here last Sunday. Of course he's fine as frog hair. I'll send a pm soon. Ah, ther it is on Wednesdays. Musical Migrations. Looking vorvarts! Some oompah, yah? :)
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Sep 15, 2012 - 05:53pm PT
And Mouse do not forget that the fate of fingers is also fickle--as you should well know. Talk to you soon...off to a family dinner. Still trying to score those free meals, you know. "Dick Ellsworth leaning over in his very hairy way to some tourista in the Yosemite Lodge cafeteria, 'You plannin' on eatin' that?' he would (not so) innocently ask.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Sep 15, 2012 - 07:14pm PT
//Touche, Pussycat!!!

Hawn!!!

Bon spetit out...Italic Text//
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Oct 24, 2012 - 01:38pm PT
There is now an "official" flames hangout at thread topic "The Flames."

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1954729/The-Flames

If you are looking to sue, go here instead http://vvv.ducktallk.org
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Nov 11, 2012 - 11:06am PT
No Mouse if you are looking for Sue go here:

http://bw.org/end/
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Nov 11, 2012 - 12:07pm PT
http://www.wattpad.com/story/2094146-my-internet-best-friend

http://www.tumblr.com/tagged/justin-bieber?before=1343969633

The internet is just as addictive as climbing or sex or...

duck talking.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Donald_Duck_talk

According to Leonard Maltin in his introduction to The Chronological Donald - Volume 1, Donald was created by Walt Disney when he heard Clarence Nash doing his "duck" voice while reciting "Mary had a little lamb". Mickey Mouse had lost some of his edge since becoming a role model for children and Disney wanted a character that could portray some of the more negative character traits he could no longer bestow on Mickey.--Wiki on Donald Duck

[Click to View YouTube Video]
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Nov 11, 2012 - 09:03pm PT
hey there say, throwpie and all...

just taking a peek at the old pics here, as i had a bit more time...
thanks for sharing...
:)
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 16, 2013 - 08:16pm PT
Bump for the 300...
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
Mar 16, 2013 - 08:46pm PT
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 16, 2013 - 09:27pm PT
"Ned's real and so are his boots. Get Ned's moonboots, today!"
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Jan 31, 2014 - 03:07pm PT
This old thing needs a bump.Mark, Mouse, John, Jeff. Brother Sebastian, sit, stay. Taken by Millis. Sebastian was Mark's GS.

Woof.

"Nothing but wild oats in there, dude."

NOT Ansel's best work but accurate. It's suffered, this copy. But it's survived like you lucky punks who knew these icons.
throwpie

Trad climber
Berkeley
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2014 - 08:10pm PT
bump
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Mar 31, 2014 - 09:47pm PT
Ned's real and so are his boots. Get Ned's moonboots, today!

Ha ha, I had almost forgotten the graffiti in the Camp 4 restrooms regarding Moonboots Ned. Probably around '78-'79.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 1, 2014 - 12:25pm PT
Tough Mother Bump...
Mark Force

Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
Jun 8, 2014 - 09:37pm PT
Andrea Young

Mountain climber
Seattle
Aug 19, 2014 - 01:09pm PT
Ah, Slings..... always came by Oakhurst and would "throw in" for dinner at my house. Usually a single tortilla and a cube of cheese. Sometimes in Fish Camp at my parents for dinner.
I gave him clothes frequently.
Last time I saw him was mid-80's slumped in a doorway on Telegraph Ave, Berkeley.
I assume he is dead, does anyone know?

Andrea
zBrown

Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa
Aug 28, 2014 - 09:46pm PT
That's a sad note Andrea.

First thread I've read cover to cover in quite some time.

Good job Throwpie.

donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Aug 29, 2014 - 05:57am PT
Love the photo of YC and TM. When I arrived in Camp 4 in the spring of 1969 or 70 TM took me under his wing. The next thing I knew I was following Sacher Cracker with stiff, bulky Robbins Blue Boots.....they worked great in the upper wide section but the lower thin part was quite a struggle.
Andy Middleton

Trad climber
Cow Hampshire
Aug 29, 2014 - 06:00am PT
79?
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Aug 29, 2014 - 06:32am PT
Ooops....70.
or maybe 69.
zBrown

Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa
Aug 30, 2014 - 11:18am PT
In the time-space continuum discussion it should be noted that

The last umpire in the big leagues to wear an outside protector was Jerry Neudecker. He retired after the 1985 season.

Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Jan 24, 2015 - 07:34am PT
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Jan 24, 2015 - 06:42pm PT
hey there say, gypsy... wow, neat to hear from you again here... i been busy, so did not see any post on the flames, though...

lately, my computer stalls too much, over there, from the videos loading, leastwise, i think that is why...

THANK YOU for adding the picture here! i love looking back at all these, though i did not know anyone from back in the 'day' at all...

fun shares though and precious history... :)
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jan 24, 2015 - 10:20pm PT
Nice - a frame pack and swingin' a Terro and a MSR axe; badaxe!
perswig

climber
Jan 25, 2015 - 09:45am PT
For heaven's sake, I hope somebody's archiving this stuff off-site in case of a ST apocalypse/meltdown. Once gathered, it's WAY too good to lose.

Dale
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Jan 27, 2015 - 03:39pm PT
Yes, it was a dark and a stormy night and a cold and snowy day; so filling up the time with scanning old photographs and cleaning them up somewhat in photoshop.
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Jan 27, 2015 - 05:46pm PT
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Jan 27, 2015 - 06:01pm PT
Camp 6? Before my time; where was (is) it?
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Jan 27, 2015 - 08:15pm PT
Camp 6 was a camp for the employees of the park service. I cannot remember exactly where it was...
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Jan 27, 2015 - 08:16pm PT
nita

Social climber
chica de chico, I don't claim to be a daisy.
Jan 27, 2015 - 08:20pm PT
*
Camp 6 ..across from the turn off for Yosemite village...The big buses & car parking now...

Curry employees also lived in Camp 6..
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Jan 28, 2015 - 06:24am PT
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Jan 28, 2015 - 06:40am PT
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Jan 28, 2015 - 03:52pm PT
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Jan 29, 2015 - 05:50am PT
I might have one or two more of Dick Ellsworth climbing in the Palisades. I will have to search.
zBrown

Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa
Jan 29, 2015 - 06:45am PT
Rare fox sighted in Yosemite National Park - 1st confirmed sighting in nearly 100 years ...

Must be feeling his age by now, but still seems pretty spry.


Yosemite carnivore crew is going to continue to watch out for Sierra Nevada red fox using remote cameras 'in hopes of detecting additional individuals.'




http://www.usatoday.com/story/news/nation-now/2015/01/29/rare-fox-yosemite-national-park-sierra-nevada-red/22516389/
zBrown

Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa
Jan 29, 2015 - 07:26am PT
^If you see him again, ask to dip his paw in ink and "autograph" the photo for me please. :)
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Jan 29, 2015 - 09:29am PT
I used to see a lot of wildlife in Yosemite back in the 70's when I lived in a cave and slept either on the valley rim or in the meadows in the winter time. I never recall seeing a fox. I saw lots of bears, coyotes, ring-tailed cats, racoons, martens, deer, etc.
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Jan 29, 2015 - 01:13pm PT
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Jan 29, 2015 - 01:21pm PT
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Jan 29, 2015 - 01:22pm PT
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Jan 30, 2015 - 07:38am PT
zBrown

Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa
Jan 30, 2015 - 08:23am PT
eek a mouse :} Pretty sure he still has those shades.
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Jan 30, 2015 - 11:31am PT
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Jan 30, 2015 - 12:46pm PT
Life in the lodge lot, back when you could still stay there for months on end. Galen perched on his home for the summer. With passenger seat replaced with a locker, he could sleep in his VW Bug.



I preferred the more spacious VW Bus.




Recreation on the veranda



Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Jan 30, 2015 - 01:04pm PT
crunch

Social climber
CO
Jan 30, 2015 - 01:16pm PT
About 1983.


Back when the springtime could be wet:


Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Jan 30, 2015 - 05:20pm PT
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Jan 30, 2015 - 06:42pm PT
That picture of Jeff watching Malcolm working kinda doesn't do him justice.

He was a genuine woodchucker.

Very nice of you to pass all this good stuff along, Gypsy.
throwpie

Trad climber
Berkeley
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2015 - 06:42pm PT
I like the bear hang in the background, crunch. We had quite complex milk crate and jumar assemblies. Hard to beat the bear boxes.
throwpie

Trad climber
Berkeley
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2015 - 07:11pm PT
You should've seen what he had on under the parka.
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Jan 31, 2015 - 05:55am PT
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Jan 31, 2015 - 05:57am PT
What I like about this photo is the Kelty frame pack, the handmade leather sheath for Randy's Swiss army knife, and the Chouinard crampons by his bare feet.
dickcilley

Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
Jan 31, 2015 - 11:27am PT
Keep them coming, Gypsy.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Jan 31, 2015 - 01:33pm PT
Those sunglasses that I am modeling are a pair that Dolores used.
That down hood was not my head gear of choice.
I preferred the crocheted hat that Dolores made for me.
She sold these little hats for ten bucks at the TNF in Berkeley in the winter of '72...the line was called Aunt Ord's Hats.
And it was definitely NOT called a toque or a tewk, as our BC friend Sandra calls them.
But like her, I eventually lost the thing and replaced it with the balaclaca in my avatar.

Randy was the guy who explained the Kelty to me when I began at TNF.
His pack is the largest, the C model on a Mountaineer frame, I think it was called.
We never sold many, most smaller specialty shops would special order them, as they were overkill unless you were going...MOUNTAINEERING WITH A NEW BABY!
Reminds me of the Adventures of Alex Honnolove.

Toad Hall.Next to Badger's House.
Turd Hall, or Snow Creek Ski Cabin.

Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Jan 31, 2015 - 01:42pm PT
Wish I had photographs of the time I spent at the Snow Creek cabin. Lee Bibby (now Lee Lalone) and I used to go up there with our x-country skis and spend the night. One day we skied over to the Tioga Road from there the day before it opened. A ranger saw us as we were playing on the road and stopped and said "you know the road isn't open" and we said "yeah, we just came over from the valley on our skis". He was a little taken aback. (this was about 1972 mind you and before that cabin was well known and rediscovered, even before Hermit Jack lived there)...

I still have Randy's Kelty and mine too.
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Feb 1, 2015 - 06:19am PT
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Feb 1, 2015 - 01:56pm PT
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Feb 1, 2015 - 04:01pm PT
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Feb 2, 2015 - 05:53am PT
C4/1971

Trad climber
Depends on the day...
Feb 4, 2015 - 01:44pm PT
Gypsy,

I just discovered that you were posting here. I still remember the Guinness that you and Liza brought to Randy and myself as we came off Sentinel in 1972....we were so dehydrated....
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Feb 6, 2015 - 06:35am PT
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Feb 6, 2015 - 07:35pm PT
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Feb 7, 2015 - 06:11am PT
zBrown

Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa
Feb 7, 2015 - 07:32am PT
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Feb 11, 2015 - 02:44pm PT
I guess when we were living in Camp 4 in the early 70's we never thought it would be given a plaque for being a "historic place"...we just thought it was a place to live.
WBraun

climber
Feb 11, 2015 - 02:49pm PT
we just thought it was a place to live.


Are you dead when you step out of Camp 4 ??
John M

climber
Feb 11, 2015 - 02:54pm PT
come on Werner.. you know what she means.. haha.. a place to plop down and call home.

It must have been a magical time when camp 4 had no time limits.Thanks for sharing all the stories and pictures Gypsy.
WBraun

climber
Feb 11, 2015 - 03:00pm PT
Some people die within when they lose their free spirit.

Losing the days of ones youth thru faded memory can cause this ....
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Feb 11, 2015 - 03:21pm PT
Quote: "Gypsy has not left the building."

She has retained that same attitude of being a gypsy her whole adult life.
Home is where the heart is and mostly,
but for some of us, Camp 4 was the best home we ever knew.
I admit, Mr. Be the Duck,
That's sad-sounding
And it's past-pounding
On the old back
Of yesteryear.

But were'nt those some shinin' times?
Drinkin' free beer on Pete T.
throwpie

Trad climber
Berkeley
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2015 - 04:41pm PT
Werner to Jeff..."don't worry, that role in Quest for Fire is yours!
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Feb 11, 2015 - 05:44pm PT
Actually I would rather roam the maquis of Corsica and sleep under an ancient chestnut tree in the Castagniccia than go back to those ol' Camp 4 daze. They hold fond memories for me; but I prefer my present life that floats between Appalachia and Corsica

https://www.flickr.com/photos/gypsyflores/sets/72157626428029347/
WBraun

climber
Feb 11, 2015 - 05:49pm PT
but I prefer my present life that floats between Appalachia and Corsica


And thus you are very very ALIVE

Cheers ....
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, or In What Time Zone Am I?
Feb 11, 2015 - 07:06pm PT
And thus you are very very ALIVE

It's called "the present" because it's a gift.


Susan
zBrown

Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa
Feb 11, 2015 - 07:18pm PT
Who would have thought that a plaque on a rock could be that heavy.

Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Feb 12, 2015 - 12:54pm PT

Corsica is an island of beauty and mystery and granite.

Blakey

Trad climber
Sierra Vista
Feb 12, 2015 - 02:21pm PT
And it doesn't get much more mysterious than this.....

http://www.supertopo.com/tr/PUNTA-U-DIAMENTE-CORSICA-TICKETS-FOR-THE-2012-SHAGFEST-ON-SALE-NOW/t11426n.html

Steve
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Feb 12, 2015 - 03:54pm PT
Have you ever read any of Dorothy Carrington's books especially this one:

http://www.goodreads.com/book/show/967308.The_Dream_Hunters_Of_Corsica

Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Feb 12, 2015 - 03:59pm PT
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GP2z_QgY3Wo
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Feb 12, 2015 - 04:18pm PT
They came for her in late August, on the island of Corsica...

Beyond the village, the road was little more than a singe-lane track bordered on both sides by thick walls of macchia...

"I wish to see the don."

"The don is a very busy man. I'll see what I can do," said the guard in the Corsican dialect....

Most Corsican men were more than willing to do their killing themselves. But there were some who needed others to do their blood work for them....People like these relied on professional killers known as taddunagiu.

Early stages of The English Girl by Daniel Silva (Merced-born int'l novelist).

The populace of Corsica relies heavily on the mixture of brush known as macchia when they need to hide from the current plundering hordes--Viking, Saracen, the French, etc.

The true Corsican is able to smell the macchia from miles and miles out to sea, so Silva writes.

For Blakey...the horror of Hammer-less climbing!
[Click to View YouTube Video]Cheers to Bron and your good self!
throwpie

Trad climber
Berkeley
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2015 - 04:31pm PT
Not Corsica. This is an authentic accidental photo of the Camp 4 parking lot. Circa 1972
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Feb 13, 2015 - 09:30am PT

So all these memories of Camp 4 and Yosemite. Here I am today in "photobooth" on my mac.
Where are you today? :D
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Feb 13, 2015 - 09:38am PT
Where are you today?

That's a question for the Science and Religion thread I'm afraid. Or, at the least, one
to be answered by Gil Sott Heron, or Souris de Merced.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Feb 13, 2015 - 09:49am PT
Exactly, thank you. :-)

Or as my old friend Tony from Haines, Alaska was wont to say

"you won't even see me when I'm gone."

edit: Hey, Gypsy, you just hung me out to dry with yer delete! Bad form!
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Feb 13, 2015 - 09:53am PT
sorry, I was going to edit and I hit the wrong button.

what I had said was "How can you be in two places at once when you are nowhere at all".

I had wanted to find the original Firesign Theatre reference. duh on my part.

or bad form--whatever.

but it really is:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sCzgdF_WjOg

How can you be in two places at once when you are not anywhere at all?

throwpie

Trad climber
Berkeley
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2015 - 10:23am PT
surrounded by a thin thin thin sixteen millimeter shell.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 13, 2015 - 11:48am PT
"no anchovies? I spell my name, Danger!"
stunewberry

Trad climber
Spokane, WA
Feb 13, 2015 - 11:54am PT
No, the horizhon izh moving UP!
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Feb 13, 2015 - 12:20pm PT
but we need to weave all the threads together for clothes for good will

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sDW8cPiBe3U
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Feb 13, 2015 - 12:34pm PT
I've got dirt on my fingers
And dirt in my bags.
I live in a tent
And I dress up in rags.

I scarf at the caf
Over at the Yo Lodge
My best friend's a muskrat
Who drives an old Dodge.

Ironsides, shown here with Millis, was really not a Dodge, but a Chevy truck.
throwpie

Trad climber
Berkeley
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2015 - 12:29pm PT
Mathis, Nancy, Peggy and me with the bug that took us on our grand Teton etc adventure.
throwpie

Trad climber
Berkeley
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2015 - 12:31pm PT
Peggy Lou in action. I think that's a custom Mathis or Mouse swami belt...
throwpie

Trad climber
Berkeley
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2015 - 12:39pm PT
All legs, all the time
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Feb 15, 2015 - 03:28pm PT
Cowboy Larry's idea for the swami, Throwpie. He sewed one up and I had one sewn at TNF's repair shop (she whipped that sucker out in no time!).

We wore them on all our walls from about '73 on. I don't know how you got one for Peggy Leggy, but maybe Aisha sewed one up for you when you worked at the FO on Fifth.
Gypsy

Social climber
NC
Feb 16, 2015 - 07:21pm PT
My neighbor promises to loan me his scanner for slides and then I will have a few more photos of Camp 4 to post.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Feb 16, 2015 - 07:30pm PT
looking forward to it Gypsy!
C4/1971

Trad climber
Depends on the day...
Feb 17, 2015 - 08:43am PT


Roger Breedlove and Anne Marie Rizzi....
C4/1971

Trad climber
Depends on the day...
Feb 17, 2015 - 08:44am PT

Anne Marie Rizzi
C4/1971

Trad climber
Depends on the day...
Feb 17, 2015 - 08:45am PT

Dennis Miller (Millis)
C4/1971

Trad climber
Depends on the day...
Feb 17, 2015 - 08:45am PT

Millis
C4/1971

Trad climber
Depends on the day...
Feb 17, 2015 - 08:45am PT

Millis
C4/1971

Trad climber
Depends on the day...
Feb 17, 2015 - 08:46am PT

Millis
C4/1971

Trad climber
Depends on the day...
Feb 17, 2015 - 08:46am PT

Millis
C4/1971

Trad climber
Depends on the day...
Feb 17, 2015 - 08:46am PT

Me (Vincent Goetz)
C4/1971

Trad climber
Depends on the day...
Feb 17, 2015 - 08:47am PT

The best picture of Camp IV
paul roehl

Boulder climber
california
Feb 17, 2015 - 09:04am PT
Funny, forgot about those swami belts... bought one form some guy at Stoney point back in the early 70s I believe... never took a hard fall on it. The guy assured me that the stitching was stronger than the webbing.
WBraun

climber
Feb 17, 2015 - 09:05am PT
The best picture of Camp IV


Are you sure?

Look at all those long haired hippy derelicts.

They should have all been rounded up and thrown in prison before Americas future kids see them .....

:-)
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Feb 17, 2015 - 09:10am PT
C4/1971, please check your Rocket Mail.

C4/1971

Trad climber
Depends on the day...
Feb 17, 2015 - 09:10am PT
Werner,

That was a great day and a great game...and all the people in that picture, stunning....
WBraun

climber
Feb 17, 2015 - 09:13am PT
It was and glad you're still with us here.
C4/1971

Trad climber
Depends on the day...
Feb 17, 2015 - 10:21am PT
Do you remember in 1973 when Gene Foley became infatuated with rocketry and started shooting rockets at groups on the Nose. Funny times.....
WBraun

climber
Feb 17, 2015 - 10:57am PT
Never heard that story.

But!!!! Gene Foley is the original inventor of the Bird Beaks long before anyone ever even thought of it.

I remember seeing his first prototype .....
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Feb 17, 2015 - 02:47pm PT
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1750553&tn=100

JM -- "Just like in climbing, when two climbers discuss an idea for a first ascent and the idea develops in subsequent discussions, then one of them goes off and does it with someone else without letting the other know, ..."

Now ain't that the truth. It's happened to me. It happened to Charlie Porter and many others.

That is one of the hardest thing to swallow when someone does that.

Also if someone confides in a route to keep secret and that person spills it to someone else and that party runs out there and does it sucks too.

And as an example pertaining to the above "ball nut" ... The "Bird Beak" was an interesting observation.

Gene Foley came up with that idea originally even prior to the "crackin up".

He displayed his prototype in Camp 4 and there was not much interest at that time.

Years later after the invent of the "crackin up" they cut one end off and some how Bridwell becomes the father of the invention?
WBraun

climber
Feb 17, 2015 - 02:53pm PT
Bridwell remembered Gene Foley's original beak years before the crack n Up was made.

I was there with Bridwell when Gene revealed the original beak.

Bridwell didn't think much of it at that time.

But later with crack n up he got the idea to cut off one side remembering the original idea from Gene's invention.
Gypsy

Social climber
Usually behind the camera
Feb 19, 2015 - 09:45am PT

speaking of Gene Foley
Gypsy

Social climber
Usually behind the camera
Feb 19, 2015 - 07:18pm PT
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Feb 19, 2015 - 08:49pm PT
The pic of Foley's Ford...is it in reverse?

For that matter, is Randy looking the wrong way?

Scanning is great when you get it righ.

I'ts a big pain in the as s to go back and do it over. Son't bather.

Good stuff!
Gypsy

Social climber
Usually behind the camera
Feb 20, 2015 - 05:50am PT
I only worry about whether I put the slide in backwards if there is writing on it. Otherwise you will have to use your imagination, which you have plenty of Mr. Mouse.
Gypsy

Social climber
Usually behind the camera
Feb 20, 2015 - 05:53am PT
C4/1971

Trad climber
Depends on the day...
Feb 20, 2015 - 11:45am PT
I got to Chamonix much later, in the nineties, but boy did immediately feel at home. I could almost smell spring Yosemite......
Gypsy

Social climber
Usually behind the camera
Feb 20, 2015 - 01:39pm PT
When I was there with Walt and Duane Raleigh in 1984 it was a crowded slum. No toilets. So the surrounding woods were filled with turds.

It was like that in 1973 too. Pretty stinky on a hot day. We camped on the Plan de l'Aiguille for a few days and that was pretty smelly too.

My understanding about Snell's Field was that it was owned by Snell who had the sporting goods store in the town. He made it a free place to camp for climbers as long as they didn't steal from his store.

zBrown

Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa
Feb 20, 2015 - 05:54pm PT


Keeping like things linked together.




http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/845223/Yosemite-1967-Photo-Can-you-identify-these-climbers



http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/338799/Herding-Cats-post-your-group-climber-photos-here
throwpie

Trad climber
Berkeley
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2015 - 06:27pm PT
wow...full circle. First photo of this thread.
Gypsy

Social climber
Usually behind the camera
Feb 20, 2015 - 06:57pm PT
We were hitchhiking to Scotland and somewhere outside of Fort Williams, a car pulled over for us. As we were running to the car, I noticed climbing gear through the back window. I said to Randy, "cool, our driver is a climber". I got in the car and as I turned to the driver to thank him I said; "oh hello Bugs." It was Bugs McKeith whom we had met in Camp 4 the year before. So we spent a week or two with him traveling around Scotland. We stayed with his mother in Edinburg. She refused to call him "Bugs". He was Alistair.

After he picked us up we drove to Fort Williams and stayed with a friend of his who was the curator of the museum. The museum had just acquired a collection of pharmaceuticals from a doctor from the eighteenth century. In it was a bottle of tincture of cannabis. So we had a cup of tea (oh yeah) and then went to the pub and proceeded to drink a few pints of Guiness. I am surprised we made it back up the stairs to her apartment.

zBrown

Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa
Feb 20, 2015 - 07:00pm PT
That's confusing as hell mouse. Are we supposed to start reposting stuff now. Luckily, I only have a few ...

Charles D. taught me how to do this.

Gypsy

Social climber
Usually behind the camera
Feb 20, 2015 - 07:03pm PT
how in the hell did you manage to flip the slide? wow. cool. does look better that way. thanks

ah thanks. I figured it out in photoshop so now I can flip the rest of them.
zBrown

Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa
Feb 20, 2015 - 07:07pm PT
Gypsy. There are many software products that will allow you to flip an image. There are in fact programs that can modify photos and videos such that you literally cannot believe your own eyes.



mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Feb 20, 2015 - 07:19pm PT
Gypsy

Social climber
Usually behind the camera
Feb 20, 2015 - 07:41pm PT
I got it now. I use Photoshop CS3. Self-taught. Learn by trial and error--mostly error. Just like photography. Someday maybe I will take a class in photography.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Feb 20, 2015 - 07:50pm PT
And Gypsy....you don't have to go back to the Nineteenth Century (PS3?!!?!?!? when we are now at PS 15.2.2?!?!?!?) to flip photos. If you are a Mac user, go to Preview.app and use its simple tools.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Feb 20, 2015 - 11:33pm PT
that is an excellent story Tami
Gypsy

Social climber
Usually behind the camera
Feb 21, 2015 - 05:26am PT
I use CS3 because I have an old mac with an operating system that won't let me go any higher at this point A friend of my son's wants to upgrade my operating system for me so that I can then upgrade to CS6 in photoshop. I use photoshop not only to flip the slides but also to clean them up. They are smudged, dirty and faded. I have iphoto and preview but use them only once in a while.

Great story about Jean McKeith, Tami.

When Randy and I stayed with Bugs, he drove us all over the place. Although he was a very mild tempered person, when he was behind the car his personality did a 360. He gripped the steering wheel very tightly and cursed every car that came his way or was in front of him. He cursed and shouted such obscenities that I was worried for him.

About a year or two later I was back in Yosemite returning to Camp 4 from somewhere. Across the parking lot, I heard someone calling my name. I looked over and there was Jean sitting on the tailgate of a pickup truck with a camper shell over it. "Oh Gypsy, would you like a martini?" "Why sure".

She and "Alistair" had just driven down from Canada. "Bugs is not a happy driver." she said.
The art of the understatement.


In Edinburgh, Bugs let me read his journal from when he was with "The British" in Antartica. HIs job there was to climb and name mountains. Some days his only journal entry would be "Snow".

He also showed us a slide show of the Scottish ascent of the Eiger. He was disappointed that National Geographic wasn't interested in the story.

HIs daughter, Arran, lives in Canada. She is quite the adventurer too.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Feb 21, 2015 - 06:17am PT
It is a fact of living in cold climes
that snow will come and stay sometimes.
And overstay on occasion.

Flying Spur Ranch, where Shirley Sargent took up residence, is just next to Foresta, and both are around 4,300' to 4,600' elevation, plenty high for a good load of snow most years.

Without going into legal and access blather, it was a private residence of Theodore Solomons, the man whose work resulted in the John Muir Trail eventually.

He homesteaded a 21-acre site overlooking the McCauley Ranch and the Merced Canyon and it had its own source of water. It was remote,but meat and veggies and milk could be had from the two ranches, the McCauley and the one belonging to GEORGE MEYER, a German immigrant.

The place ended up as Miss Sargent's home. It had apples growing there, too.

[Yvonne was Mrs. Solomons.]

Gypsy

Social climber
Usually behind the camera
Feb 21, 2015 - 10:37am PT

Llamberis in North Wales about 1973
throwpie

Trad climber
Berkeley
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2015 - 12:39pm PT
As a young climber, I just wanted to be English. I studied all the ads in Mountain Magazine. I always made sure to light a cigarette before any lead, just like Joe Brown. No mountain parka for me...I wanted an anorak, whatever that was. Milar mits, knickers, damp wool sweaters....it's raining? perfect conditions!
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Feb 21, 2015 - 12:52pm PT
Kind of like this bloke? Pure bred Scot fully kitted out in wool and
doing the E Ridge of Bugaboo in boots, of course. But he didn't smoke.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Feb 21, 2015 - 03:23pm PT
For that matter, Throwpie, all English pommies, tommies, crumpet-suckers and lobsters are liars. They canna help it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ifHU9ZOq6RY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ga93ZmvXoPw
Gypsy

Social climber
Usually behind the camera
Feb 22, 2015 - 07:12am PT

Accidentally deleted this photo that I had posted earlier in this thread due to a senile brain fart
C4/1971

Trad climber
Depends on the day...
Feb 22, 2015 - 02:05pm PT
Love that image Gypsy!!!!
WBraun

climber
Mar 6, 2015 - 07:46am PT

The old camp 4 gas station is still there in the background of this photo.

It's now a parking lot for cars.

How did cars even get there without gas ..... ? :-)
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Mar 6, 2015 - 12:13pm PT
Tami, what a wonderful story. His mom was a gem. Bugs use to set up a screen tent for her on Lake Teneya to avoid the mossies and the two of them sitting there on a hot summer day was hilarious.

Gypsy

Social climber
Usually behind the camera
Mar 6, 2015 - 02:10pm PT
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Mar 6, 2015 - 02:30pm PT
Werner
Looks like a Pontiac LeMans
Mine was gold

Tobia

Social climber
Denial
Mar 6, 2015 - 02:34pm PT
We (my family), had a '66 Pontiac Tempest identical to yours, unless you had the hotter LeMans; which I believe you did seeing the trailer hitch (on Werner's).

Another one ↑, ours was maroon.
Flip Flop

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
Mar 7, 2015 - 07:59pm PT
Oh Tami !
I lived in Interlaken for two long climbing seasons. Time of my life. I just love the interconnections.
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Mar 8, 2015 - 07:42am PT
Werner yer quite the lucky guy having such a beautiful woman by yer side for all these years.
Peace
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Mar 12, 2015 - 05:24pm PT

What a great picture of you two Werner.
Poloman

Sport climber
Anna, Il
Mar 15, 2015 - 06:26pm PT
Really enjoyed all the photos! I was at camp 4 in the early 70's. Randy Hamm and I were on the triple direct route when Dennis Miller destroyed his crotch with the rope. They kindly left us a bunch of water and gorp, on a ledge, when they left. I went to the valley with Chris Reveley and was there for a couple of months. Great time!
Don't know if you remember me but I remember many of you...
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Mar 15, 2015 - 06:40pm PT
I remember not being able to meet you.
This would have been interesting.

The El Cap route you & Randy did, the 3D--in order to help you guys get down more easily, Throwpie & I went up Eagle Creek to seek you two out, but we couldn't find our butts let alone two guys in a big empty place, so we went back down the way we came up.

Mouse
throwpie

Trad climber
Berkeley
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2015 - 06:52pm PT
We also drank your beer and smoked your joint. Sorry.
Poloman

Sport climber
Anna, Il
Mar 15, 2015 - 07:40pm PT
Sorry...my last post was a bit cryptic. My name is Dave O'Melia.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Mar 15, 2015 - 07:46pm PT
That is an INCREDIBLE photo of Werner and Mary.
Poloman

Sport climber
Anna, Il
Mar 15, 2015 - 07:48pm PT
We had a hell of a time getting down. The snow was a real problem once the sun got up a bit. We followed a bear's tracks for a long ways to avoid post holing. About half way down the trail by the falls a girl met us and knew who we were...
throwpie

Trad climber
Berkeley
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2015 - 08:28pm PT
Mouse and I were in the Mountain Room bar ( The Mounting Room) the night before the "rescue" when Gypsy came in wet and worried....she had just come down from on top of the captain looking for you guys. She was freaking out that you were freezing to death up there. We got a bit of rest, then headed up Eagle Creek canyon at daybreak. We carried warm clothes and socks, as well as the aforementioned "medicine". The trek up the canyon was loose and steep to say the least, but we made it. We searched and hollered but to no avail. We headed back down to find Randy at Camp 4 looking quite whipped, smoking a corn cob pipe. Never dawned on us to call for a rescue...ah youth.

From what I remember hearing, your ascent (and descent) was quite wet and miserable.
Poloman

Trad climber
Anna, Il
Mar 15, 2015 - 09:15pm PT
Thank you guys for that. I lost some skin on my toes from the wet and the cold. The whole climb was "climb and shiver". When we got to the top we packed bark under a rock and climbed under there as best we could. By morning, feet were a bit numb but at first the snow was hard. I never thought we needed rescue but it wasn't any fun. I was wearing all wool. Probably doubled my weight but we were climbing in running water much of the time. The thing that really worried me was the falling ice but none of it nailed us.
Again, really appreciate your effort.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Mar 15, 2015 - 09:58pm PT
Thanks, Throwpie. I was hesitant to try to recall events so long ago because of developing brain farts.

Dave, nice to hear the story from your perspective, also.

I will back up all that Pie said as to our motive--Gypsy's concern--and the relief I felt when Randy had appeared not too worse for the wear.

Well, I certainly related to the weather conditions, as Doug Ross and I had to posthole out after the Salathe (March '74). We had bad weather, too, but I don't recall suffering like you two did. I stayed dry.

We were climbers once, and young, as my good friend Throwpie said.

I'm happy that those of us who are left alive are alive. What else is there?
Pele Juju/Happy To Be Alive
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_F1klCusVzo
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Gypsy

Social climber
Usually behind the camera
Mar 19, 2015 - 02:11pm PT
Hope you are feeling better, Mr. Mouse
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Mar 19, 2015 - 02:38pm PT
And thank you for the sentiment. I'll be better by and by.
throwpie

Trad climber
Berkeley
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2015 - 04:11pm PT
And how time flies.

or

Time flies like the wind and fruit flies like bananas
Gypsy

Social climber
Usually behind the camera
Mar 19, 2015 - 04:30pm PT
Only one thing wrong with Throwpie's story of the rescue. Randy NEVER smoked a corncob pipe. Only briar for that man...Comoy's and Dunhills. And his blend was either Rattrays #7 or Dunhill 965
throwpie

Trad climber
Berkeley
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2015 - 04:48pm PT
Sorry, I was confusing him with General Macarthur.
Poloman

Trad climber
Anna, Il
Mar 19, 2015 - 06:31pm PT
Randy was a great partner to have on that climb. Honestly, could not have done better. It saddens me that he is no longer here. I didn't know of his demise until this week.
rmuir

Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Apr 2, 2015 - 06:31am PT
Phound Photo from Camp Phour:
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Apr 2, 2015 - 09:02am PT
That is Rob's yellow MG.

What a fun car...when it ran.
C4/1971

Trad climber
Depends on the day...
May 10, 2015 - 10:52am PT
I liked climbing with Randy also.

And I remember Gypsy and Liza bringing Guinness to us after we climbed Sentinel with a liter of water apiece. We were so dehydrated, and those Guinness were exactly what we needed.

Life was (and is) good.
Pilar

Social climber
Westminster, CA
May 27, 2015 - 11:00am PT
In the pic posted by BASE104 the guy on the far left is Steve Rathbun
Stephen McCabe

Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
May 27, 2015 - 04:38pm PT
That looks like my blue VW. Correct time frame. It belonged to Mark Hopkins "Hoppy" before me. Yabo had scratched into the paint in the inside back of Mark's car the word degerent. I think he meant degenerate. I thought my car would be more likely to make it into this kind of thread than me.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
May 28, 2015 - 07:50am PT
Lives in Greeley Hill.
He was head over heels about Lynette, Gypsy's sister, like a lot of the women he knew.
Rollover

climber
Gross Vegas
Oct 8, 2015 - 06:26pm PT
BBST
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
Feb 16, 2016 - 09:09pm PT
c/o www.lotharklingel.de
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Feb 16, 2016 - 09:49pm PT
hey there, say... wow, just LOVE this thread...thanks guys!

thanks gypsy, ... thanks, all!
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Feb 17, 2016 - 08:07pm PT
Tobia

Social climber
Denial
Feb 20, 2016 - 03:32pm PT
Certainly should have belonged to Werner.
Bushman

Social climber
Elk Grove, California
Feb 20, 2016 - 04:18pm PT
That's so strange, I just had this memory of staying in Camp Four for the first time in the mid seventies and seeing Mead Hargis' tent cabin or some such contraption over above or near the rescue site on the northwest end of the campground. The 'Climbing Ranger' never bothered me any and I doubt that I registered or paid any fees when I was there. I was a peice of work back then and it's no wonder to me now why Largo gave me the nickname 'Debris.' Mead probably just didn't 'notice' me lurking about out of respect for Tobin. I think he was gone climbing or doing rescues during the short time I was there and only recall seeing him a few times though I was never introduced.

steveA

Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
Apr 11, 2016 - 04:12am PT
Gypsy

Social climber
Usually behind the camera
Jul 7, 2017 - 11:10am PT
This photo was deleted for some inexplicable reason and I cannot seem to add it back to the original post.

mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Jul 9, 2017 - 05:31am PT
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Oct 8, 2017 - 06:00am PT
Bump.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Dec 1, 2017 - 02:56pm PT
A Christmas hello to any Merced folks checking out this wondeful thread
From Brian Bermingham aka Mouse from Merced.

Repost of Jerry Anderson's photo in Roper's Camp 4.
Gary

Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
May 28, 2019 - 04:14pm PT
Of all the people who came thru this forum, Gypsy is the one I would have most like to have met. What she posted here was sad and magical all at the same time.
Fuzzywuzzy

climber
suspendedhappynation
May 28, 2019 - 11:13pm PT
Rik Reeder not Kevin Worral
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