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Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 17, 2010 - 10:40am PT
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I know someone here has the answer.
Reason I ask...I first started climbing 8 yrs ago in 5.10 Spires. Beginner shoes. After about three months in got talked into LS Mythos. Then moved on to Evolvs when they started up. Then back around to Five Ten Anasazi lace ups which I wore from '04-07. Golden. Then they started mucking with the sizing and quality.
Long story short...I pulled out my first pair of climbing shoes - my 5.10 Spires - to climb in the Alabama Hills this past weekend (saving the new Mythos for Tuolumne/Portal granite). And they killed!! Perfect fit, great rubber. An 8 yr-old "starter" shoe did better than the last pair of Anasazi laceups I had in '07....where the sizing was off, the heel too big, and the quality worse than years past.
What went wrong with that company? Anyone have stories?
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Reeotch
Trad climber
Kayenta, AZ
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May 17, 2010 - 10:48am PT
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The only thing I ever liked about 5.10 shoes was their rubber. Their shoe designs usually suck. I only climbed in Sportiva or Boreal shoes for most of my climbing career (25 yrs.)
However, I do like my Mocasyms!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 17, 2010 - 10:58am PT
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What Reeotch said.
i have The Sportiva foot, however,
But quality control has always been an issue at 5.ten. Even fro those with wide feet.
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Chinchen
climber
Anacortes, wa
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May 17, 2010 - 11:03am PT
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I like my Jet 7's a lot....
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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May 17, 2010 - 11:21am PT
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It might have something to do with the company's management. I've had a number of different 5-ten shoe models over the years; every pair self destructed, and every time I returnd them I got additude from the boss.
The rubber is ok, but the quailty of the product negates any benefit the rubber might provide.
Scole
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Brian
climber
California
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May 17, 2010 - 11:31am PT
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When the Boreal Ace's were green and black, I didn't use anything else.
Messed with a few other things, but after several years I'm using 5.10 (which I once badmouthed loudly and frequently, after some Guide Tennies delaminated on my first wall and the rep [a friend, and in jest] said, "they made it out of the box without breaking. Wattya want?").
I tried to go to LS Miuras, but I can't get a good fit.
Now I'm in the new, white Anasazi lace-ups. They are brilliant shoes for vertical, just over vertical, and just under vertical climbing. Feels like cheating.
Moccasyms are also great all-arounders. I have a friend who is a committed LS customer and more or less a resident at the Creek. Even he says it's stupid to use anything other than Mocs there.
So, while I have had other problems with 5.10 over the years, I have to say my experience is the opposite of Flouride's. Seems to me and my feet that they have finally, *finally*, gotten their shite together.
(Maybe I've just had a lucky run with the quality control?)
Brian
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 17, 2010 - 11:32am PT
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the 5.10 shoe that I used, the Newton, was a nice shoe which got discontinued, and has recently been reintroduced. Liked that shoe, and the rubber....
I also use and like the Guide Tennie, the rubber on the sole is good for about 250 miles of walking on pavement, usually the uppers take a beating on approaches (but I haven't been approaching much lately). The laces have an annoying habit of breaking at the upper most eye, maybe the way the rivet gets placed... not sure why the lace material is breakable... replaced with nylon cord.
Not sure they went wrong, just a large variation in the quality of the product.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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May 17, 2010 - 11:38am PT
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Haven't gone back to 5.10 since they did away with the Ascent slippers. Simple and versatile. NOT a crack shoe for sure! But they performed well in all other conditions. Sadly, they are so blown out that a resole is out of the question. My all-around trad shoe to cover hard edging, friction and cracks is this beauty.......LOVE EM!!
Unless 5.10 gets their act together, I'm stuck on my Technos.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 17, 2010 - 11:42am PT
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My recollection is that 5.10s had a reputation for poor quality way before you started climbing 8 yrs. ago. I always found it odd that Charles put so much effort into producing a sticky rubber but then slapped it on poorly made boots.
Maybe because the market's so captive and the rubber's so sticky you don't have to make a good shoe. I never used 5.10s because they never really fit my foot well, so for me it's never been an issue. I just wish that the manufacturers would stop changing models so quickly. I find something I like (Mega SGs, Boreal Vectors, etc.) and it's only around for a year.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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May 17, 2010 - 11:51am PT
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I've had fine luck with several generations of 5.10, especially the old velcro Anasazi and its predecessor the UFO (wish they still made those). Right now I'm happy with the comfortable V-mile as my all-day shoe. I guess this means I like their velcro models.
I still have a pair of 1st-gen gray Five Tennies, they're falling apart but I hate to give them up. Several newer versions didn't last or fit as well.
I've tried out various other 5.10 shoes at the store and found they came nowhere near fitting my foot. Sportiva and Scarpa have often been better, but right now I'm hating a pair of Sportiva shoes that pinch my foot in just the wrong way, after two pitches.
So my own experiences have been all over the map. Still like C4 best, though.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 17, 2010 - 11:55am PT
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Maybe I'm paddling against the current, but I sure like my Moccasyms. They fit well from toe to heel and they are well made (in the sense that I wear out the rubber long before anything goes structurally wrong with the shoe).
And finding myself in sudden need of an approach shoe this spring, and being a thousand miles from my usual source of second-hand goods, I actually sprung for a pair at a climbing shop. Guide tennies. Which I'd heard bad things about, but they fit well so I took em anyway.
Since then I've been wearing them every weekend, not only for approaches, but spending the day in aiders scrubbing new routes. They're super comfortable, work far better than I expected in my aiders, and so far aren't showing any sign of falling apart.
Can't speak for any other models, but the slipper and the approach shoe have worked really well for me, and have stood up to abuse.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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May 17, 2010 - 11:59am PT
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I liked my newtons a lot but when i ordered a new pair in the same size they came at least a full size smaller?? WTF. I was informed by the sales person that 5.10 changed all their sizes. Seemed like a boneheadded move to me. These days my favorite shoe is the mad rock flash. Its the cheapest shoe on the market, fits my foot perfectly, climbs well and resoles well.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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May 17, 2010 - 12:01pm PT
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I agree with Ed Hartouni. LOVE my Newtons. best shoe for me ever, have had a pair for about 11 years now. I baby them. They fit like paint and are stiff enough--- so many aren't stiff enough. And they show absolutely no signs of delaminating, ripping, etc. They keep their shape like no other shoe I have had, and this would be 47 years worth of shoes. Meanwhile, I also climb in Acopa's JB and another model of theirs. Oh, and a pair of Kaukulators that have stealth put on them.
Still, for bigger climbers and climbers in bigger cracks, we still need a stiffer and higher shoe than any offered by any company that I know of. Doing offwidth in current-day shoes is very close to ridiculous compared to how it used to be. Way too flexible for big cracks (viz. 3">>) Kaukulators started going there, but still needed to be higher.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 17, 2010 - 12:08pm PT
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Shoes I'm using now:
La Sportiva: Kaukulators (from scuffy b's used shoe sales lot) for offwidth and crack climbing
Acopa: Aztec (2nd pair in the mail) for routes that need more sensitivity, and nuanced foot smearing, and are able to be all around all day shoes, Tuolumne Meadows shoes...
Acopa: Legends, just got these and I have to say I'm looking forward to using them outside, these are great edging and crack boots! stiffer midsole region and very plush... I suspect these will be my Valley shoes before too long, and for those edgier TM routes
Acopa: Chameleons, used to be outdoor, but these have sagged a bit in two years of hard use and are now relegated to the gym
Five-Ten: Guide Tennies for approach work well for me up to about 5.5 if you don't have to depend on the edging
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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May 17, 2010 - 12:18pm PT
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Selling shoes for a long time, I've found its more important to climb in shoes that fit your foot than ones that have "performance."
The design of the last of a performance shoe is built around getting your foot close to the edge and all buckled up; that will change from one person to another (i.e. from a man in a man's shoe to a woman in a man's shoe - ever wonder why women fit so well in mens shoes that are full to-the-toe lace ups?)
Find somethign that fits, regardless of brand/style/whatever, and you will probably climb well in it.
Thats what Acopa would always say, you will climb better if your shoes are more comfortable.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2010 - 12:19pm PT
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Before leaving JTree I went into Nomads and tried out shoes...the 5.10 Gambits were horribly sized. I ended up getting La Sportivas which I hadn't worn for years.
The Anasazi lace-ups that had done me so well for so long no longer fit, for a couple of years now. And they are really hard to find in stores. I order them online and they don't come close to the fit they had a few years back.
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MeatBomb
Gym climber
Boise, I dee Hoe
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May 17, 2010 - 12:24pm PT
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flouride What went wrong with that company? Anyone have stories?
The spire is still available AFAIK, and the rubber is still the best. Maybe your foot changed as you got older, in a "kankles" sort of way?
To add, unless you are climbing moderately hard routes and need the precision, any shoe that fits well will be the best shoe for you. Someone climbing 5.10 and under could probably do just fine in a tennis shoe resoles with C4 rubber.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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May 17, 2010 - 12:29pm PT
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The lilac Anasazi lace-ups are great, the greens ones a little less so. They seem to be a little baggy. Here's a video I saw recently of Steph Davis on Salathé, sporting the lilac Anasazis http://www.highinfatuation.com/salathe.html
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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May 17, 2010 - 12:30pm PT
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I understand your frustration.
I fell in love with Asolo run-outs and went rhgouh about 4 pair of those before they were unavailable.
Then I loved my 5.10 huecos. The first model improvement was ok. At one point, I resoled the same pair twice. Fit well, performed well. I was losing partners from the smell of these trusty old friends. Remembering that my previous favorites were discontinued, I bought two more pairs and put them in the closet. Apparently the size/shape isn't quite the same as the earlier shoe. I have tried to break them in, to no avail. They'll probably go on consignment.
So many boots have a downturned toe, and that just doesn't work for my wide feet with lots of character. I am currently collcting another array of shoes I hate.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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May 17, 2010 - 12:33pm PT
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Before leaving JTree I went into Nomads and tried out shoes...the 5.10 Gambits were horribly sized. I ended up getting La Sportivas which I hadn't worn for years.
This is a dead giveaway that your foot is more "Euro style", long and thin as opposed to short and stubby. The Gambits fit my foot very well and for the most part, I cannot wear Sportivas (although there have been exceptions... Tao, Mythos, TC Pro). Five Ten shoes are not generally a euro fit, although the VMile seemed to be more euro when I tried them.
Been through the whole gammut of Five Ten for the last twenty years. Verticals, Five Tennies, Razors, Huecos, Altia, Ascents, Coyote, Gambit, Guide Tennies, Camp Four...I'm a Five Ten guy through and through. As with everyone else, I had my favorite. I REALLY wish they still made the Hueco. That was a great shoe.
The only real problem I've had with shoes falling apart were the early to mid 90's five tennie models. I have a pair that I've had at work for over ten years. I only wear them when I bike to work in the summer, so limited wear and tear. I'm on my third tube of Barge cement to keep them glued together.
Edit: Check it... the Five Tennies that have been through two and a half tubes of Barge.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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May 17, 2010 - 12:37pm PT
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I don't climb in five ten anymore because they discontinued the ascent- the best shoe ever for lazy people like me. It was like climbing in bedroom slippers.
Those ones fit me, all the others I've gone through just didn't fit me right. The newton, and anasazis never worked.
I really liked the zlipper, though the zipper part was useless at best and really painful at worst.
All that said, I'm wearing five tens right now at work. The new camp four like shoe. I also wore a pair of camp 4's for two years straight everyday. They held up great.
So my take is some of their stuff works for me some doesn't. Find what works and use it.
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Mason
Trad climber
Yay Area
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May 17, 2010 - 12:50pm PT
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Hey Mooch,
Those were the first pair of shoes I bought, the yellow scarpas you have. But then someone told me to go with 5.10 so i exchanged them.
I need a new pair of good crack climbing shoes but not sure what to get.
Any suggestions from anyone?
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snaps10
Mountain climber
Visalia, CA
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May 17, 2010 - 12:51pm PT
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My favorites are an old pair of Assym's that I have. They just flat climb well. I just got a pair of Coyotes (I'm cheap) and while they are comfy in the garage, they just don't climb well. Sending the Assym's to Barry for a resole.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 17, 2010 - 12:54pm PT
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the problem was charles cole is a jerk. i bought one of his first pairs of verticals around 1985? the soles seperated from the last. i took them to his small warehouse in north hollywood pacoima area. when i showed him the shoe & why I thought they came apart. He told me that it had never happened before & that i needed to learn how to climb, that my lack of technic was at falt. i told him that i Know i'm not that good but i climb with bob kamps, the laegers, yabo & the one thing they tell me is how good my technic is. he then told me that they were all has bens & i should learn from the new generation. On my way out his father stopped me & said that he new they had a problem with the first run ( charles had just said he had NEVER SEEM THIS BEFORE) but they had fix it & offered me a pair at cost. they fell apart within days. I drove them to wheeler & wilson showed them the problem & what i thought was wrong. they made the changes i wanted & i still boulder with that same pair. they have been resoled at least 6 times.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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May 17, 2010 - 01:26pm PT
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Perfect Furmy! I had the same issue, was told to take a BRAND NEW pair of shoes to the cobbler to get em fixed. I continued to buy 510s for a while longer and had approach shoe fall apart on the second or third approach, finally learned my lesson and moved on! 5.10 farmed out to foriegn companies, didn't give a schit about customers and got greedy, uh that's my opinion. Move on Beth....get a shoe that gets backed up and a company that values its customers. ACOPA, ACOPA, ACOPA!
Peace
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Tattooed 1
Trad climber
Sebastopol, Ca
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May 17, 2010 - 01:39pm PT
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My favorite shoe hands down are the LS TC Pro's. I put them throught their paces this weekend on Marginal, Harry Daly, Apron Jamb, Mr Natural, Green Dragon and Cold Fusion. A pretty wide variety of climbing and they excelled everywhere. If only they weren't so expensive.
Tim
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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May 17, 2010 - 01:43pm PT
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Can't say enough about that TC Pro... man, that is a great shoe.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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May 17, 2010 - 01:57pm PT
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Boreals, never went back.
lots more to say on this subject, but think of 5.10 as the Nike.
The more shoes that fail in a reasonable time frame = more shoe sales.
If they fail less than reasonble time frame, which it sounds like the public is catching on, then the brand becomes associated with poor quality and users switch.
As for sizing, I've noticed my feet have changed over the years. Is that a possibility here Flouride?
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Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2010 - 02:06pm PT
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"you got older, in a "kankles" sort of way?"
Hahahaha.....but no.
I was a die-hard Anasazi laceup customer for years. But I noticed a difference. Especially between '04 and '08. I could order online and the perfect shoe would come. Then it stopped. The sizes changed, the toe and heel changed, it was no longer the same shoe. The heel in particular, way too loose. Very blister prone when in years past the shoe was perfect.
I'm happy that I fit perfectly into my olden times Spires :). But they were purchased in '02 when I think quality control was a bigger deal.
Kankles?? No. Not this person. I'm genetically blessed. :)
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Tradmedic
Ice climber
Thunder Bay, Ontario
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May 17, 2010 - 02:12pm PT
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I dunno, maybe I've had good luck.
I just bought my second pair of 'pitons' and intend to stay on top of getting them resoled before blowing through the leather. Great foot-jams!
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ryanb
climber
Seattle, WA
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May 17, 2010 - 02:13pm PT
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Am I the only one who has had sportive (miuras, katanas, tardmasters) fall apart way faster then five ten shoes? I switched from climbing exclusively in sportiva to climbing only in anasazi (pinks, whites, greens, vcs, mocs, and the new 5x) a few years ago and haven't looked back. Better fit for my (blunt) foot gives better edging power and no troublesome delaminating around the arch.
The new white anasazi fits 1/2 size down from the old pink and is still the ticket for thin face. The LV velcro will probably be my next pair of shoes...officially a women's shoe but i tried them at a demo and I like the tighter heel and c4 rubber.
The 5x is also an awesome shoe...it is basically a moc but with some zlipper style upgrades that give it reasonable edging.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2010 - 02:15pm PT
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"This is a dead giveaway that your foot is more "Euro style", long and thin as opposed to short and stubby. The Gambits fit my foot very well and for the most part"
Au contraire my friend (wait, that's French!)
My foot is long and wide.
When my Evolvs blew out and I went into Nomads I had them bring me Mythos and Gambits. The 8 1/2 Gambits were about the size of a 7. SO small. Given the Mythos have weird seizing, I'm and 8 1/2 street shoe and needed a 7 1/2 Mythos which I went with. Weird.
Evolvs fit my feet well but the rubber blows out faster. They're the closest street shoe fit. Just wish they lasted longer.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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May 17, 2010 - 02:15pm PT
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Newtons, my favorite all time shoe, edge on a dime, feel great in cracks, fit my wide foot well. Poor Berry is gona have to deal with these smelly things again. Worst smelling shoes I have ever had though.
Ed, how do the new ones compair?
I love Moccasyms, feels like cheating on Lunatic Fringe.
Pitons, wore out faster, by a long way, than any other shoe I ever had, both pair. What is up with the toe, right where the rand and sole join? Every pair I look at has this same weird contact point that rips apart.
All five ten approach shoes, why won't the rubber stay on? My last pair started to delamb after one week. My Evolves never peeled guiding in them all summer last season. To bad those Evolves were discontinued. The Five Ten Guide did climb great though. But can't use a shoe if it only lasts a few weeks. I also loved the Guide Almighty. For some reason the rubber did not peel to bad on those.
ALL FIVE TEN APPROACH SHOES SHOULD COME WITH A TUBE OF BARGE CEMENT.
Does Five Ten get a kickback from Barge?
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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May 17, 2010 - 02:33pm PT
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I love my Newtons, which are the only five tens I have ever worn just because Charles was always a jerk, but they also fell apart quickly where the rand meets the sole. Barry fixed them up nicely though. I do feel that five ten rubber is too soft for really hard thin edging though. I want Sportiva rubber when the edges get smaller than say 11c.
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Jobee
Social climber
El Portal Ca.
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May 17, 2010 - 03:09pm PT
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I've climbed in E.B's, Boreal, Sportiva, and many other climbing shoes.
Five Ten made the cut, are my first choice, and I'm sticking by them.
The fit, performance, and ever changing style has often exceeded my expectations. The rubber sticks, grips, smears, and edges on a dime. When they are beaten to a pulp or worn down to the stitching, off they go for another chance, and have held up well to resoling.
I covet The Newton, and bust them out for the wide or when digging deep into a crack sets the tone. I can heel toe to high heaven without a hitch; kicking invisible steps into slippery Yosemite granite as though climbing a sturdy ladder.
The first time I wore an Anasazi lace up I honestly screamed out loud "this is unbelievable" that's because I was sitting on top of the Blue Suede Shoes boulder problem behind Camp Four (about a hundred years ago) no crash pad, no spotter, brand new shoes out of the box, and the down climb looked sweet. The shoe was magic!
Yeah sure, I'm a rock guide so I live in my Guide Tennie's!
Ranger Rock a.k.a. Manure Pile Buttress is often the destination, the Tennie's are up and down that formation almost daily in the busy season, and you would be surprised what I've climbed when wearing them, I am grateful for the comfort, as well as the performance.
Squeezing feet into proper climbing shoes is no party when the temps. are in the high 90's, and the slabs are like a greasy frying pan.
I have had nothing but great experiences when ever I've had to contact Five Ten. The customer service is 5 star, the return policy outstanding.
I commend them for their great service, up to date knowledge of product, and for making me feel like a rock star when ever I've asked for assistance.
Yes, yes I do no Charles Cole personally and he is very good to me, but, the bottom line is I am a climber, I do demand quality, I do demand performance in a product, I do crank up some pretty cool climbs, "if the shoe didn't fit, I wouldn't wear it". ... period.
p.s.
If the Lynx ever has a come back I'll pay top dollar for at least 10 pair, we climbed all the classics together well over a decade ago, and I'm still pinning for a pair.
Cheers to Five Ten, you rock.
Jo Whitford
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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May 17, 2010 - 03:34pm PT
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Go wrong? Hardly.
As GDavis said, it's about fit. The anasazi last fits my foot. If the last doesn't fit, the brand hardly matters. Second, shoes are a wear item. You folks that "climb" in the same pair of shoes for 10 years and expect them to last 15 need to go climb more than 4 pitches a year. Ask a distance runner how often they replace shoes...they'll say months, not years. Third, you shouldn't expect to climb hard steep edges in the same shoe you climb difficult tight cracks in, anymore than you'd go on the golf course with a single club.
There are 9 pairs of climbing shoes in my rig right now, 8 of them are Five Ten...multiple pairs of mocs, verdes, laceups, velcros. The other pair are Acopas JBs, which also fit my feet well, but they suck ass by comparison...horrible rubber and apparently no Q.C.
The heel on the anasazi line was vastly improved several years ago. The only issues I've ever had with Five Ten was inconsistent sizing, which is remedied easily enough by trying them on first.
People wanted another high top, Five Ten gave it to us. They wanted the Newton back, and the Newton is back. They complained about baggy heels on anasazis, and the heel design was completely redone.
Friday I managed to pull off my hardest ever flash of a boulder problem...in Five Ten Anasazi velcros. They fit my foot, they peform better than anything I've worn. That's all I could ask for and more.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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May 17, 2010 - 04:03pm PT
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The only constant I've noticed in 43 of climbing in specialized shoes is that good climbing shoes seem to have variations typical of carefully hand-made items. I've found out that climbing shoes seem to vary subtly in size even for the same make. In the old days of Kronhofers and PA's, I could buy them small enough that I could barely stand the pain for a few minutes when they came out of the box, but they would stretch soon to fit my feet perfectly. In those days, the initial fit wasn't so critical.
Now, the initial fit matters a whole lot more because most shoes don't stretch as much. For that reason, I sometimes need to try on a few different pairs of the same size and model to get the one that fits the best. It's almost like buying a Steinway piano. You'd be foolish to try to do that by mail order.
As for 5.10, I have a 15-year-old pair of Huecos, resoled a few times, that I use for long climbs without much OW, and an old pair of Fires re-soled with C4 that works well for OW's. I found the Gambit fit me very well, too, and has held up much better than I expected. I suspect that it all comes down to idiosyncracies of the shoe and our feet.
John
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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May 17, 2010 - 04:12pm PT
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will said:
shoes are a wear item.
Amen to that brah.
Really, when I consider the grinder I put my shoes through nearly every weekend, it's a wonder they last more than a couple weeks. Five Ten has worked for me for 20 years. I'll stick with 'em.
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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May 17, 2010 - 04:16pm PT
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I know this isn't an issue as important as world peace but
Jobee and Elcap's posts are awesome.
Mocasym.
After a maiden voyage on the Vampire, years ago, when one of my asyms squirted off my foot at a belay and tradgedy was narrowly averted by pinning it to the wall with my big toe, I swore off those ruby slippers forever.
13 years later my feet are dyed red again, and I couldn't be happier.
They're kind like Levis~ stoked they still make em.
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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May 17, 2010 - 04:19pm PT
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but I would kill for some Vectors...
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Josh Nash
Social climber
riverbank ca
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May 17, 2010 - 04:24pm PT
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along cosmics line I have buddy who buys whatever shoe fits best and then gets them resoled with stealth c4 rubber. so you get the stickiness of five tens with shoes that fit.......btw I have the v mile and dig them. they are the only velcros that dont hurt my feet..
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FeelioBabar
Trad climber
One drink ahead of my past.
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May 17, 2010 - 04:39pm PT
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Acopa for life!! (resoled with stealth C4)
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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May 17, 2010 - 06:20pm PT
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Just got my old pair of EBs with home made leather tops resoled in Stealth. Killer dude!
(Ok, so they are a little old tech, but what the hey ;-))
Edit:
By the way, I resole everything. I've even been known to resole my all water Alp sandals in Stealth. Way cool.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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May 17, 2010 - 06:44pm PT
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I used to know a guy who resoled the toes of his cowboy boots with stealth rubber. He showed up at Gunsmoke (in Josh) dressed for rodeo, watched for a while, then said enthusiastically "That looks like fun, I gotta give it a try!"
He cruised across and walked away leaving the assembled climbers slackjawed.
On topic, I hate to see folks callin' Chas Cole names on an internet forum where you know he will not show in self defense. Shoes come and go. Chas reinvented climbing rubber and did some bad assed climbing too. I would think that if someone had a problem with him personally they would take it up with him personally.
Charles used to give me shoes. Back when that really made a difference to me. We didn't see eye to eye on everything, but who does?
Two words: Jolly Roger.
Ahoy Matey!
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Gene
Social climber
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May 17, 2010 - 06:59pm PT
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PAs with C4. Yee Haw!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 17, 2010 - 10:10pm PT
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I haven't tried a pair of new Newtons yet... but my pair of Aztecs just came in, special made to match the different size of my feet, size 10 on the left, 9.5 on the right, perfect fitting shoes.
No other company but Acopa, that I know about, makes shoes for you... that fit your feet.
I also agree with Elcapinyoazz and steelmnky shoes get worn and are replaced, companies come and go, shoe models too...
...not sure how it affects my climbing, not much I'm just not that good. But having shoes that fit really makes me feel good on a climb, not pain to deal with... And having them last, as the Newtons, Kaukulators, Aztecs, Chameleons, and I hope the Legends, have is important.
That said, 5.10 is an awesome company that has produced a good product for a long time... it's a tough business, climbing equipment... and we should be thankful that people are interested in actually producing the stuff we need to pursue our passion.
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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May 17, 2010 - 11:03pm PT
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I climbed in 5.10 shoes for years. The Friction Loafer, original Altia and the Newton were my favorite models. However, for the last several years, they haven't made any shoe that I like. So, these days its the TC Pro for me.
Curt
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AllezAllez510
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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May 17, 2010 - 11:27pm PT
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Does it matter? Find a shoe that works for you and keep buying 'em.
Five Ten is the SH!T No other shoe comes close for me.
For me, the Moccasym is the best crack climbing shoe ever made...well, for thin hands to fists anyway...
The Anasazi lace up is the best face climbing/edging shoe out there. FWIW, I find the current verde to be superior to the Blanco...but that's me.
Look at virtually all of the top end climbers. All of them with perhaps the exception of two or three climb in Five Tens...or Sportiva.
I'm sure they could all still climb 5.13 in Air Jordans, but that's not the point.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
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May 17, 2010 - 11:42pm PT
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Sliptiva?
no way
one drop of water and your toast.
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Oxymoron
Big Wall climber
total Disarray
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May 18, 2010 - 12:33am PT
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My Ballets feel good with Stealth on them.
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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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May 18, 2010 - 02:47am PT
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Charles Cole is a standup guy and a long time friend, Five Ten Rules. . .df
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Brian
climber
California
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May 18, 2010 - 02:49am PT
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Anyone here tried the Grandstones (5.10 high tops)? How about it all you OW types, any reviews?
Brian
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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May 18, 2010 - 03:32am PT
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I was a sponsored climber for 5.10 for perhaps decades now...Was pictured in the original five -tennies (Remember the old silver with the black X?)Soloing the Jaws at Woodson, (in matching silver lycra no less, gah!) For the first Five-Ten ad in Summit Mag. (Now defunct..) I've always preferred their rubber and to me Charles was and will always be a respected friend! I still have Ascents and Huecos that I'm still using to this day. Wouldn't use any other boot myself!:) When I wasn't climbing barefoot...
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Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2010 - 04:45am PT
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"The first time I wore an Anasazi lace up I honestly screamed out loud "this is unbelievable"
That was my reaction too Jo. I loved those shoes. I was a better clilmber with them. The rubber is perfection and the fit perfect. Then the sizing changed around '07 or so and I couldn't get the same fit.
"You'd be foolish to try to do that by mail order."
John, I hate having to order online but my local climbing store (A-16) and Nomads don't carry the Anasazi's. They're hard to find in stores (at least here).
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froodish
Social climber
Portland, Oregon
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May 18, 2010 - 05:14am PT
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Can't say I agree that anything went wrong. I've climbed in nothing but Five Tens since the green Vertical days
Currently running Prisms and V-Miles and love them both. My latest Guide Tennies have lasted through a hard 2+ years and are still going strong.
+1 to Charles being a standup guy too. I've had nothing but stellar service from Five Ten.
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chiindi
Big Wall climber
Lakeview, OR
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May 18, 2010 - 07:22am PT
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In 1974 EB's & PA's were the choices, and you wore them on the walkup. RB's worked better for me on hot rock of MARGINAL on glacer point apron.You guys have too many confusing choices now. Do you need a haberdasher to outfit you for a climb? I had bib overalls, a swami belt, a handfull of beaners, a wad of runners, 2 ea 11mm & 9mm haul rope, 6 rurps, a few pins & a hammer, a skyhook. No helmets, harnesses, or other 'safety' stuff. If you needed it, you made it. Chounard was the gear to have, because it was the only gear around good for Yosemite. Lowe was doing mostly ice gear. Chalk was a NO NO. It leaves greasy slimy crap on critical holds.
Who needs a guidebook? ...just follow the chalk smears.
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AllezAllez510
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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May 18, 2010 - 09:12am PT
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"In 1974 EB's & PA's were the choices, and you wore them on the walkup. RB's worked better for me on hot rock of MARGINAL on glacer point apron.You guys have too many confusing choices now. Do you need a haberdasher to outfit you for a climb? I had bib overalls, a swami belt, a handfull of beaners, a wad of runners, 2 ea 11mm & 9mm haul rope, 6 rurps, a few pins & a hammer, a skyhook. No helmets, harnesses, or other 'safety' stuff. If you needed it, you made it. Chounard was the gear to have, because it was the only gear around good for Yosemite. Lowe was doing mostly ice gear. Chalk was a NO NO. It leaves greasy slimy crap on critical holds.
Who needs a guidebook? ...just follow the chalk smears."
Recently, in the sport of surfing there has been a movement to rediscover older board designs. First, it was the 'retro' fish and bonzer, now we have people asking us to shell out $500 for koa wood boards that could easily be made by any woodworker. The fish is the one of the best board designs out there, the wooden alaia, like the ones Ancient Hawaiians rode...er, not so much.
My guess that this similar "back to basics" trend will never happen in climbing. And the "retro-trad" thing ain't trad. If you climb it on bolts or suss it out on TR first before leading on gear...that's not trad.
All things being equal though, I'll take my modern equipment choices and leave the retro tools to you.
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Hell A
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May 18, 2010 - 01:51pm PT
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always have liked the rubber, but not necessarily the shoe.
my two biggest complaints are the sizing, and the construction quality.
I use to love the Mountain Masters for approaches. However, the toe piece always delaminated. In fact, the toe piece delammed on the first day after climbing on a 5.3 route.
Right now I am using the Camp 4, and it seems to be better constructed.
I have switched over to the LS Miuras, and Katanas(a fantastic shoe).
Five Ten has gotten bigger. They are into water shoes, mtn biking, trail running. I think they are making mtn biking tires also, but not sure.
Maybe they have lost there way.
wanted to add the 5.10 Mojaves were one of the most comfortable shoes I've worn.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2010 - 02:28pm PT
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If you like the 5.10 Gambits, go to steepandcheap.com right now. They have them for $49.99. They've had them on sale there on and off for the past couple weeks, which means there's an overstock. 7 minutes left on the sale clock (if you know steepandcheap you know what I mean)
Their write up:
Five Ten Gambit Climbing Shoe - Men's:
Five Ten blends comfort and performance in the Gambit Climbing Shoes.
Five Ten Gambit Climbing Shoe - Men's
Five Ten created the Gambit Climbing Shoes to provide climbers with all-day comfort while maintaining the performance you need to take on technically demanding pitches. Slip into these lace-up shoes for a long gym session or multi-pitch trad route. The perforated synthetic upper keeps your foot cool while the sun beats down and heats up the rock. Of course, the Gambit Climbing Shoes use Five Ten's ultra-sticky and incredibly durable Stealth Onyxx rubber to keep you on dime edges.
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Euroford
Trad climber
Louisville, CO
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May 18, 2010 - 04:17pm PT
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yeah, i still like my spires as well. go figure.
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Clovis, CA
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May 18, 2010 - 04:26pm PT
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I've had the 5.10 Grandstones for about 2 months now and I LOVE them. I had the LS Mythos for a year and they stretched out a lot. I saw the TC Pros, but wasn't going to shell out the cash or them. I was able to get a pro deal on the Grandstones. The edge well and will hopefully stretch out a little more so my toes feel better.
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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May 18, 2010 - 06:24pm PT
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I have several 5.10 shoes and they're great. I wasn't aware that the build quality was going downhill. I even was able to get a split sized pair of gallieo's after asking for them from a local shop in Denver.
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
CA
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May 18, 2010 - 07:26pm PT
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Designing and manufacturing is not a simple process. Even if those who are your contractors are doing their level best to produce the best product possible.
Charles used to have his shoes made in Italy, the original Vertical, and then the Micro were made there. And, Charles knew a lot more back then about rubber than about shoe manufacture... but Charles is no slow learner,
there might be only a handfull his intellectual equal here.
but, there are a few variables..
leather comes off of cattle, they are variable, and the thickness and nature of the leather varies with which part of the cow the leather came from. Top grain? thick from the back, too thick for climbing shoes, great for mountaineering boots, so Galusser leather is a great tannery for mountaineering boots, but for climbing shoes? nah. simply too much money.
so.. goat leather?
or a panel of nylon trampoline?
and then you get those little old ladies who take cut parts home and come back with sewn uppers with eyelets, they did the labor carefully, maybe, but Maria sewed on the left of all the lines, so her 42s fit like 41 1/2s,
and her Mom sewed all on the right of all the lines so her 42s fit a bit big. and she was drinking a bit at home, so when she ran out of factory thread, she used what she had at home. AAAAHHHHH that's actually my experience with making climbing shoes in Spain. but.. In Spain, or Italy, they at least are trying to do it right... If you have products made in China, well...it's a nightmare if you care about quality.
Norbert Olberz the single owner of Sport Chalet had some "Climbing Shoes" made in China, he was careful to spec everything, rubber, leather, eyelets, sewing, last, everything, or so he thought... the rubber in the sample was allowed to cool slowly, but the production stuff was seemingly flash frozen, hard as nails and nowhere close to sticky. and, as the shoes were pulled out of the box and tried on, the first pair of laces broke! both of them! and all the rest, Norbert had forgotten to spec the strength of the laces. The Chinese, of course, had no fault, he had not made a specification about strength. horrible people to deal with, no ethic for function or implied strength, just what they can shelter the ego for, thats it.
edit: Sport Chalet eventually sold "Skateboarding Shoes.. for 9.88
I've made a lot of products in Europe and Asia over 30 years. In Europe you will hear from a manufacturer, we can make it easier, or better, or our QC could be better if we do this.. is that ok? but, you will never once hear that from China. Instead, all odf the sudden a new lot shows up, and the labels are delaminating in hot weather because the incentive of CHEAP has caused them to shave one fourth of one cent on production costs by substituting adhesives, contrary to spec, and they claim no knowledge of it, meanwhile the manufacturer of a medical product had to scrap over a thousand units at 90 dollars selling price.
Charles makes shoes in the Orient, not sure where right now, but it is nearly impossible to have consistent quality without an employee onsite at all times. they cheat, substitute, have no ethic for quality or function, and are generally frustrating to deal with.
so, after all that, buy the shoe that best fits your foot, and that varies model to model, not just brand to brand, try them on, each pair, for 20 minutes in the store or you will not know.
the best made shoe may not fit you best...
or some routes may require you to wear two different shoes...
and there are a lot of things to do to new and old shoes to help them best perform.
and own at least two pair if you climb often, just so your shoes are not a warm, moist, habitat.
so, cut Chales a little slack, that is of course unless you are smart enough to fabricate an incredibly long molecule that results in a rubber as sticky as stealth, or, tenacious enough that you could be poking aroud the specialty rubber warehouse and recognize something as good as C4,
Charles...is both, and a very nice guy as well.
Ed
edit: anybody have a pair of size 10.5 Micros? never should have sold'em
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Old5Ten
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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May 19, 2010 - 02:30am PT
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FiveTen Lynx, best all around shoe ever made. Desperately trying to keep mine alive after many (six +) resoles...
Old5Ten
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okie
Trad climber
San Leandro, Ca
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May 19, 2010 - 09:10am PT
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Moccasyms= best thin crack kicks ever. But not really made to withstand the abuse. And I did have a pair of their shoes fall apart when I pulled them out of the box!
QC is horrible at 5.10.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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May 19, 2010 - 02:02pm PT
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Do people really think that your feet do not change with age? That your foot is the same shape and size as it was 10 or 15 years ago?
Seems pretty well established that most peoples' feet get wider/longer and the arch flattens with age. So maybe it ain't the shoe, maybe it's YOU.
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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May 19, 2010 - 02:47pm PT
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Didn't 5.10 make the UFOs? Or do I have that wrong?
Weird man. 5.10 = UFO . There is a story there and a conspiracy.
I do want to say that 5.10 does indeed make the best rubber. Great stuff. I'm gonna resole my dress shoes that I wear with coat and tie, for impromptu buildering sessions. You never know when the mood is gonna hit you. Got to be ready at all times.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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May 19, 2010 - 11:32pm PT
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I worked for years at 5.10 and Boreal.
THATS ALL I'VE GOT TO SAY ABOUT THAT.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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May 19, 2010 - 11:32pm PT
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For now.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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May 21, 2010 - 12:38am PT
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Climbing shoes are like a box of chocolates.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2010 - 06:25am PT
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"Seems pretty well established that most peoples' feet get wider/longer and the arch flattens with age. So maybe it ain't the shoe, maybe it's YOU."
Oh Will.
Point I was trying to make was back in 2002 when I started climbing I bought a pair of 5.10 Spires. And hadn't used them until this last weekend. And they fit like a GLOVE. After 8 years. No changes in my feet, shoe, etc. Just perfection.
Yet over the years with 5.10 they changed up the sizing so much that the Anasazi's I loved no longer fit with that same precision. I used to be able to order Anasazi's online and know they'd fit perfectly. That stopped happening. The fit was completly off.
I might give the new white Anasazi's a try but I want to find them in a climbing store first to try them. And no one around here carries them. For $153 I want quality and can't risk it anymore ordering online and hoping they didn't change the sizing on me.
Still brilliant rubber, but sizing changes have made me use other brands. I still have a pair of Anasazi laceups from about 2008 and the fit is terrible. It's the right shoe size but the heel is too big.
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
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May 25, 2010 - 08:30pm PT
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Great rubber, shitty durability, I use to blow out my 5.10’s within a few months, eventually I ended up coating the inside and out with seam grip and now get about two seasons out of them before their trashed.
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maxdacat
Trad climber
Sydney, Australia
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May 28, 2010 - 09:07am PT
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I keep buying 'em so they must be doing something right. Never had an issue with durability (same with sportivas) so i do wonder about some people's footwork if they start blowin out shoes.
On a side note - bought my first pair of 5.10's in 1989 which had pink laces and a green rubber half sole - ring any bells?
Sideside note - i tried some evolves but the construction doesn't feel as good as 5.10 far too soft and flexible out of the box.
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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May 28, 2010 - 10:55am PT
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eventually I ended up coating the inside and out with seam grip and now get about two seasons out of them before their trashed.
I see you coated both the stitching and the fabric between the stitches. Which do you find abrades first ?
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
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May 28, 2010 - 06:48pm PT
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The fabric abraded first on my camp four’s.
Coating the fabric is a bit overkill but when
there is so much stitching coating everything seems the way to go.
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go-B
climber
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May 28, 2010 - 07:20pm PT
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Watusi, cool no laces or resoles need!
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Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
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Mar 12, 2014 - 09:15pm PT
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Years ago Five Ten gained a bad reputation, and deservedly so, for poor workmanship. But the shoes I'm looking at these days are much, much better. Still not like Scarpa, but enough of an improvement to check them out.
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ruppell
climber
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Mar 12, 2014 - 09:44pm PT
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Years ago I had a pair of Anasaazis that delammed in the first day I used them. So I asked my local rep if there was anything he could do. He brushed it off and said to take them back to the gear store. That kinda pissed me off.
So, the next Saturday, everyone is hanging out at the Deli getting breakfast before going to the cliff. There's a least 20 local climbers there. Who should pull up but the rep. In my deepest Look At Me voice I chime
"Hey, I figured out why there called 5.10"
"Why" the rep sheepishly replies.
"Because 5 of every 10 pairs go back to the factory."
About 2 minutes later a got a voucher for some new shoes. lol
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overwatch
climber
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Mar 13, 2014 - 01:13am PT
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Some guy sneaks in a footwork gaff and no one comments?
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Mar 13, 2014 - 09:30am PT
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That looks good, but the date on that PR release is Jan 2013 coveloco!! So well over a year back. They haven't released them yet? I'm gonna copy/paste so it has longevity:
"FIRST LOOK: adidas Terrex Solo Stealth Approach Shoe
posted by Gurvinder Singh Gandu | January 28, 2013 at 2:59 pm
adidas, adidas Terrex Solo Stealth, approach shoes, climbing shoes
[Pin It]
You may have seen the adidas Terrex Solo approach shoe in recent years, but never like this.
In Fall 2013, adidas is set to introduce an updated version of the lightweight shoe, including a top-of-the-line Steath Rubber outsole. With insight from its sister brand Five Ten, the Terrex Solo Stealth is the first adidas shoe with the heavy duty compound rubber sole.
For those of you wondering what an approach shoe is, it’s the footwear climbers and alpinists use to go from their vehicles to the primary ascend point—it’s not quite as technical as actual climbing shoes, but offers a better lightweight option than traditional footwear.
So what’s so special about the Stealth outsole? Well according to adidas: “it offers unbeatable grip by flowing into microscopic irregularities that can be detected on any surface (in this case rocks) to form a secure bond.”
Along with the Stealth outsole, the Terrex Solo comes with an upgraded EVA foam midsole, which has been reinforced with a TPU film. In the heel of the shoe you’ll find Adiprene foam for impact absorption and comfort on long approaches. The shoe also features strategically placed loops on the heel so it can be attached to the rest of your gear with a carabiner.
The price point for the Terrex Solo Stealth is at $120. We’ll have an exact release date for the shoe shortly."
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spectreman
Trad climber
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Mar 13, 2014 - 09:36am PT
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I switched to Tenya shoes a few years back. Best shoes ever!
I love my Ra's. I've had 4 pairs.
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
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Mar 13, 2014 - 10:18am PT
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The Gambits were my favorite shoe for quite a while until they discontinued them. TC Pros ftw now.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Mar 13, 2014 - 10:47am PT
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^^^^
That's kind of funny. A super soft shoe, the gambit, replaced by a super stiff shoe the TC.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Mar 13, 2014 - 10:49am PT
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I *heart* my 5 pairs of Grandstones.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 13, 2014 - 10:57am PT
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Adidas' sister company 5.10?!?!?!
That's all I needed to hear.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Mar 13, 2014 - 11:03am PT
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For a long time I was in love with Costco brand blue jeans. About $13 each, and way more durable than any wanker yoga-inspired wannabe organically fair traded canvas climber pants. Those wanker yoga pants ripped in the knees the first time I wore them at Zander's Narrows Simulator. Those cheap blue-jeans can take a beating on climb after climb, all-day squeezing and groveling affairs, before the knees start to blow out.
About a year ago Costco switched it up, must have finally pushed the other vendor out of business because the new jeans have suckier material, no coin pocket, and they fit like a tree trunk with a big wide waist compared to the hips and legs. I've still bought some when I was desperate, but I've fanned out to Rustler jeans from Walmart.
Things change, life moves on, we must let go of that which was awesome in favor of that which the vendor thinks will make them more money.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Mar 13, 2014 - 11:06am PT
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Love the rubber, I can look past the other imperfections.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Aug 30, 2015 - 07:42pm PT
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Bump for sad toes
Adding full foot orthotics to climbing shoes, hi-tops, that are a size up from my old, usual climbing shoe size.
Yikes I need Board lasted - Stiff - ? . .shoes Scarpa Techno x ?
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Aug 30, 2015 - 08:18pm PT
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How can Fluoride, report anything on shoes, She NEVER leads anything..
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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Aug 30, 2015 - 10:44pm PT
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Mar 13, 2014 - 09:30am PT
That looks good, but the date on that PR release is Jan 2013 coveloco!! So well over a year back. They haven't released them yet? I'm gonna copy/paste so it has longevity:
"FIRST LOOK: adidas Terrex Solo Stealth Approach Shoe
posted by Gurvinder Singh Gandu | January 28, 2013 at 2:59 pm
http://www.campsaver.com/terrex-solo-approach-shoe-men-s
Adidas Outdoor Terrex Solo Approach Shoe - Men's
$119.95/Now Only $95.96
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overwatch
climber
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Aug 30, 2015 - 10:46pm PT
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some great post on this thread especially from Jobee and pumpinleadinyurdumper
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Aug 31, 2015 - 05:53am PT
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This was my shoe, it's been La Sportiva ever since.
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Rolfr
Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Aug 31, 2015 - 10:25pm PT
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Anasazi Blanco lace up and velcro are the shitz for Joshua Tree. Yes they may only last 1 seasons but with one good Locker resole they last another 6 months. I buy them at the factory store for $65.00 plus the resole works out to $.75 per day, climbing three times a week.
For edging and smearing they can't be beat! For cracks TC Pro with stealth resole.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Look at this bullsh¡t
Ohana Kemp Surfboards
"Five and Dime" model.
Five Ten- still the best.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Is it just me, or are 5.10 shoes getting hard to find? Mountain Gear just lists a few closeouts now, and the local REI just carries Anasazi Moccasyms and Guide Tennies.
Someone please let me in on what's going on with them.
John
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Adidas Outdoor Terrex Solo Approach Shoe - Men's
These are the shidizzle for my skinny feet!! The last few times out I never bothered putting on my TC's they work so well.
As far as 5-10 is concerned, with big Walley Barker now at the helm I think they'll go GOLD!
They are trying to bridge into the mt. biker and skateboard world tho so climbing may be takin a back seat :(
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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I can't support your enthusiasm for Mr. Wally Barker at the helm of 5.10. I have heard other many inside comments and fear for the 5.10 company and it's imminent demise.
Addidas isn't necessarily a good thing for 5.10 or Wally for 5.10. Only time will tell.
Too bad Charles Cole (was that his name?) is gone.
Wally, you out there?
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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^^^ well I didn't know anything of that:(
My hope would be that he's paying more attention to his gorgeous family instead of biznuss:)
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Been a long-time supporter. They are the only shoes I climb in, and there are about 12 pairs in my closet right now.
I know and climb with several people who work there or have worked there in the past. Not seeing, nor hearing good things lately, from their focus, to community/athlete relations, to product. Maybe it will work itself out, maybe not. But the sounds I'm hearing from the inside are anything but reassuring at the moment.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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That's why I'm preppin'
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WBraun
climber
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What happened once Charles sold the company?
I'm alive because of those shoes.
I'd probably be dead if I would worn some other shoes rubber.
There was one Rescue where I was the only one going across wet slabs where everyone else wouldn't do it without me putting a tether line for them to clip in.
It's all about money now ain't it?
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LOWERme
Trad climber
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Still have 2 pair of 1st gen Verticals that could use another resole (my favorite shoe), and this pair of Micros' with original soles (from 86 ?).
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