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bathsnake
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 9, 2010 - 01:20am PT
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“Deviation from nature is deviation from happiness”
-Samuel Johnson
Contemporary scholars agree: 1) TM Herbert's initials stand for Tough Mutha, and 2) the experience of leading TM's deviation in 1968 without the benefit of modern climbing technology would make climbers nowadays physically sick. Even armed with some of Black Diamonds finest doesn't make it a pushover: Chris Mac described the experience as 'grueling' and that is appropriate terminology. He also gave it 4/5 stars, and that's also appropriate. The good news: The route protects well, and falling is unlikely (or sometimes impossible). Sometimes the hardest step is the first one. Let's get prepared, shall we?
Ideal preparation for TM's deviation begins in your youth: did you frequently get shut into dark, tightly enclosed places by a sadistic older sibling? Were you regularly spanked by judgmental parents? Did skateboarding accidents bestow kevlar-like skin on your elbows and knees? If so, you're an ideal candidate for TM's deviation. If not, you'll have to suffer through like the rest of us.
“Standard Deviation Not Enough For Perverted Statistician"
-The Onion
Start the route by starting up West chimney. Unlike most routes on the West face, this is a good route to do on a hot day, since even with afternoon sunshine you will spend most of your time in the shade. On the other hand, doing it on a cooler day will give you the excuse of wearing long sleeves and pants, in a futile effort to preserve your delicate skin.
The first pitch goes up a ways; don't take the first chimney-like exit you see on the right - keep going up over some large blocks. You don't set the anchor until you're above the 1st anchor of Pony Express.
You'll know when you arrive: there's a convenient alcove there and if you're quiet you might just be able to hear echos of the anguished cries of climbers that have come before you. You'll get to contribute to that symphony soon enough.
The second pitch is the business. Put a selection of mid-size cams on your right-side gear loops since your left hand is going to be otherwise occupied when you're climbing. This is a wide, off-vertical, flaring chimney that'll have you on your back with your feet in the air quicker than a Tijuana hooker. Good gear will present itself on your left and will protect your unseemly upwards scooting. Well, it'll protect your body; your dignity you should have left on the ground along with the bags.
Shortly after you become accustomed to the novelty of using footholds above your head, it'll be time to switch back to a more conventional climbing position, where you can use various protruding plates and knobs to escape the chimney and avoid further ridicule by your belayer. Presently the infamous squeeze chimney will loom into view.
“The deviation of man from the state in which he was originally placed by nature seems to have proved to him a prolific source of diseases”
-Edward Jenner
Now, "bomb bay chimney" is a phrase that's been bandied around a bit referring to sections of this pitch. I've heard it, unjustifiably, applied to the lower flaring chimney, but if you're going to use it at all, I think only the upper section deserves it. Sections of it do lean over and open up into a yawning overhanging space. But don't worry about that. After a conventional squeeze approach, your upward progress will be prevented by further narrowing. Don't think that I didn't try to continue slithering upwards - and I'm a pretty skinny fellow (Viz: my bouldering party-piece is birth canal at the Lovers Leap boulders). No, to continue upwards you're going to have to leave the relative security of this chimney. Place some gear as high as you can get it (realistically this is going to be at your feet) and behold that decent-looking knob just out of reach.
Trying to sling that knob before you step out into the void is an experience that puts into mind the greek legend of Tantalus; try as you might, the bloody sling will not stay put. Give up in frustration or half-assedly lasso it like I did, either way you have to tiptoe along an obscured rail using your toes to figure out the best spots, before you topple over onto the knob, quiet your distracting inner voices and mantle up onto it.
The remaining part of the climb rewards your earlier efforts, though there is a final sting in the tail as you struggle to surmount the final edge. Save a .4 (grey camelot) for the last move; though it might plug up a good handjam, I was happy to make that compromise, and unashamedly beach-whaled it over the top. The anchor takes practically anything you've got left over but #1's and #2's are the best. Extend your stance so you can peer over the edge and watch your second suffering - besides providing you with entertainment it's good for reducing the rope drag too.
Logistics: Focus on mid- to large-size cams (doubles from .4 - 2 and whatever large cams you can get your hands on. Well, don't go crazy - a #5 camalot would be nice, but you can adequately protect the difficult bit with a #4 (I did). Unless you're packing a valley giant ( http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=574177&tn=0&mr=0 ) then forget sliding a cam up along with you in the squeeze chimney. Funnily enough, the gear I was most grateful for was a doubled sling; just practice your one-handed lassoing first on the ground. Finally, just as important is what not to bring: a helmet, bulky shoes and any sense of entitlement: you're going to get worked so you might as well enjoy it. Thanks for the route, TM.
“Without deviation from the norm, progress is not possible."
-Frank Zappa
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Classic description!
Well crafted story of groveling.
Mucci
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Wonderful story, great writing.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Thanks bathsnake!
I love that route. Nice write up.
Z
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Great Great Great!!!
Thanks for the killer write up and pix.
I'm not sure I wanna go in there....
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Trad
Trad climber
northern CA
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Great report! I never get tired of that route.
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leonardo
climber
davis, CA
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May 12, 2010 - 01:20pm PT
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Excellent writing but I don't recognize you any more.
You spent way too much time climbing with the euros and here's the result:
climbing a chimney almost makes you cry....
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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May 12, 2010 - 06:37pm PT
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I-need-to-go-back-and-revisit-that-thing-BUMP!!!!!!
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Trad
Trad climber
northern CA
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May 12, 2010 - 09:31pm PT
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By the way, while the upper (squeeze) chimney might be considered as bomb bay/bombay too, I still maintain that the lower section of the route is a great example. (A difference is that you'll hit something sooner if your gear blows in the lower part.) In fact, I did a Google image search for "bombay chimney" and the lower chimney part of TMs Deviation came up in 50% of the initial results!
So what if those images happen to be the ones I posted on ST? If/when it's on the internet it must be true.
See also:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/general_climbing/whats_a_bombay_chimney/106578922
While searching for further truth and enlightenment I googled bathsnake and hit "I'm feeling lucky." The resulting video was unexpected.
http://www.youtube.com/user/bathsnake
(Video displays wanton violence, destruction, and laughing; if at work consider pre-reducing the volume.)
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franky
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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May 12, 2010 - 09:35pm PT
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I finally got around to sugarloafing again, but didn't do that route. I guess that is another reason to go back!
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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May 12, 2010 - 09:51pm PT
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Excellent! Thanks.
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eurotrash
climber
Denmark
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Nice TR, bathsnake! Way to share the love!!
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Feb 24, 2014 - 12:51am PT
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I liked this post. I'm bumping it.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Feb 24, 2014 - 09:11am PT
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the torture button needs gentle caress,
now and then,
here i am considering the anti-clit
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 24, 2014 - 10:51am PT
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Good climbing thread and I appreciate Ed's comments two posts up about the "5.7" hands pitch on the Yawn.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Jan 21, 2016 - 10:41pm PT
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bump
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Jan 21, 2016 - 11:21pm PT
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Ah yes, TM's. First lead that grunt 42 or 43 years ago when my partners and I were on a mission to climb every route in the hwy 50 - south Shore area in preperation of the first formal guidebook to the area. It was rated 5.9 at the time, but I can tell you I got more worked on it than the nearby Fat Merchants Crack. I think we added a + to the 5.9 rating.
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Jan 22, 2016 - 12:20pm PT
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It's embarrassing to admit, but this thing has spooked me off twice. Something about down and out flares over knobs below. Anyway, I think I just need to see it done, or maybe be in a more creative headspace. If anybody's ever looking for a partner on this, hit me up.
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