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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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May 12, 2010 - 01:45am PT
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The first time that I was in the Chieftain, they still had separate entrances, and separate rooms. One side was for grubs like us, and the other was for guys with women. Les McDonald and I had just made the second ascent of the upper Angel's Crest. I was battered and bloody [long story]. I was also in dire need of a brew, and a year or two under age. Unfortunately all the mud and blood did not fool the beer-slinger for more than two seconds. Fortunately Big Jim, Tony Cousins and Les argued hard on my behalf, and the waiter relented somewhat. He agreed to serve me, but only allowed me to have two!! A good compromise.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 12, 2010 - 01:52am PT
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I was going to say I've got plenty of memories of The Chieftan, but on trying to dredge them up I mostly encounter fog. I wonder why? The beer was awful, but we sure did drink it.
One thing I do remember is a period in which Tuesdays (I think it was Tuesdays) were open mic nights. They weren't called "open mic night" back then, but anybody with a musical instrument and a desire to look and sound like a complete idiot was allowed on stage. Gaaaahhhhh! It was worse than the beer.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 12, 2010 - 02:09am PT
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I can't remember when I was last in the Chieftain. The "please check knives at the door" sign was also at the Cliffside, despite our fond belief that it was a more upscale operation.
My drinking stories aren't much to boast about. However, in autumn 1972 I went on a Varsity Outdoor Club trip to climb in the Okanagan. We climbed something near MacIntyre Bluffs (Skaha hadn't been discovered then), and then the next day near Hedley. Anyway, Saturday night we went to a bar in Okanagan Falls or something. I skulked in behind everyone else. As I was 15 at the time, the waiter wasn't fooled for a moment, but all I ordered was a coke so he said I could stay. I'd like to say that I then just drank others' beer, but I didn't - Daryl rightly pegged me as a lightweight in the drinking department.
Considering that it was a VOC trip, and half the people were probably under 19, I may have been a good decoy.
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bmacd
Social climber
100% Canadian
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Speaking of relics - hominoids - did you ever wonder about who the proginetor species were for Homo Sapiens Sapiens ?
http://rafonda.com/origin_of_humans.html
It gets disturbing if you are privy to the latest DNA studies as I am ....
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Thanks for the bump Jim and Tami!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Question of the hour: Who is Relic? Is he a beachcomber?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Grand Wall with Hamish was always a blast. We did the route often in the 80's, got it wired pretty good.
Rack:
1 x 1.5 friend
1 x #4 RP
3 X wired stoppers
6 x 1" nylon slings
20 x Carabiners
This is a freaking hilarious rack for the Grand Wall. Hamish has balls.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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going back to the original post:
Truly a spectacular predicament
is another great line.
"spectacular predicament" describes many a situation up on a wall.
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bmacd
Social climber
100% Canadian
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This is a freaking hilarious rack for the Grand Wall. Hamish has balls.
Hamish was on fire, for a long time ... he was Southern Bell material in '89 but never got on it, because I uhm err ... oh never mind
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bmacd
Social climber
100% Canadian
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3 pitches to the flats Tami, then 4th class to belay the last pitch with only the 1.5 friend for pro.
4 x 5th class pitches in total
move fast, climb high ...
;)
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Going to print this out and read it tomorrow. Looks to be a good read.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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You're right Tami, started climbing in the mid nineties in Squam. But I'm here for the legendary stories and awesome pictures, not to yak about myself. Keep 'em comin!
I think it should be called the Hamish Challenge. Take Hamish's rack as listed above and lead up the Grand Wall. Any takers?
eeeek is right!
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Timmc
climber
BC
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That's Hamish alright! That tiny rack looks like the one he took on the Rostrum when we climbed it in the late 80's. He also climbed it in Fire Fliers. Needless to say I don't think I led much if any on that day.I think gf and Jim B were right behind us.
I think we spent most of that trip chasing Hamish around in the crappy weather.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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The moves at the top of the B-C are perhaps easy 5.10, and only for a short bit. But they're fearsomely exposed, and on less than stellar rock.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 3, 2011 - 12:19pm PT
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Is this thread drift?
Does it matter?
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Cloudraker
Sport climber
San Diego, CA
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Wasn't it Hamish who rope soloed U-Wall at the age of 15?
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Peter says he really felt sick to his stomach watching Hamish c'os his toes were stickin' out of the fronts of his EBs and Peter had found the moves sketchy with a full rand on his boots. But Hamish was fine & off they scampered......... Gnar Buckets
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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As I climbed those last forty feet, I felt a mixture of emotions. Mostly there was the deep satisfaction of finally achieving a long sought after dream, but there was also a sense of sadness at the passing of a great adventure. As Phillip and I hiked down the summit slabs admiring the view down Howe Sound, I realized that for me, this had been in many ways, the ultimate climb.
Amazing ending to a truly great adventure. Way to go Perry!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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I agree with Relic and Tami that rack is scary. Especially the one cam belay :) I know good climbers who pare down their racks and I think they're small but that's just rediculous! :)
Chief- Yes but no, no one cares. This is what we came for!
Cloudraker- Wasn't it 14 and he got picked up by the cops??
Thanks for the bump Jim!
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 3, 2011 - 03:14pm PT
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There's probably more good stories out there about the perils of "Exacto Racks".
I certainly hornswoggled a few partners who placed gear out of prescribed sequence off the rack I provided.
I think it even became a precautionary standard to ignore my racking recommendation or bring gear to augment the rack I "took care of."
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