University Wall, second free ascent

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MH2

climber
May 4, 2010 - 04:11am PT
U Wall is THE LINE on the Chief, standing out as Perry says from the discontinuous features that compose most other routes*.

That story has the gut-level feel that good writing should have. Another vote of thanks for putting it here.

Another way to appreciate the route is to see the picture of Greg F on it that was a cover page of an MEC catalog. His eyes have a certain look.




* then there's the Black Dyke
gf

climber
May 4, 2010 - 04:48am PT
Chief,

That was a good article then and its stood the test of time. Speaking of ACC journal articles, be thankful that all David did was tweak the title.

Ghost-so let me get this straight -those articles by burton, sutton and gordy didn't count as being written by real climbers?

gf
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
May 4, 2010 - 01:19pm PT
Ghost-so let me get this straight -those articles by burton, sutton and gordy didn't count as being written by real climbers?

Of course they did.

And there were others. But they were becoming increasingly rare by the mid-80s, and the guys doing hard things in the Rockies and the interior ranges were hardly submitting at all. In fact, when I went out to Canmore and Calgary to talk to the Rockies crew and ask them to send stories to the CAJ their response was "Huh?" I can't now remember who it was -- Blanchard? or Jeff Marshall, maybe? -- who looked at me in confusion and said "Why would the Alpine Club want stories from us?" They'd pretty much given up on the CAJ as a place to record their stories.

I was hardly a climber on their level -- or yours or Perry's -- but at least I was a climber, and kind of a dirtbag, and cared about the same things they did. A major change from the previous fifteen years or so.

Cheers

D
klk

Trad climber
cali
May 4, 2010 - 01:26pm PT
great piece-- that 2nd pitch on u wall looks absolutely amazing-- like the 2nd pitch of good book, but bigger and left-facing.


never went up there, maybe my only regret from squamish days. i was actually in town and crashing at tim's place when he told me perry was looking for a partner. but i was up to my elbows in some stupid project.

you'd have to line up six deep to get on that rig if it was in the valley. it'd be worth doing even if you had to yard a bit of a0.
Chief

climber
Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2010 - 01:32pm PT
"Why would the Alpine Club want stories from us?" They'd pretty much given up on the CAJ as a place to record their stories.

Good point Dave.
There was a period where the CAJ's relevance to what we were doing or more importantly, our relevance to the CAJ was questionable. Periodicals like Mountain, Summit, North American Climber, Climbing and Rock and Ice became the natural venue for much of the writing at the time.
I can say that the CAJ was a formative publication for me as a young aspiring rock climber and mountaineer. That photo of the late great Lloyd McKay (on Les Courtes I think), Chick Scott's moody piece on Daulaghiri, Burton's account of Warrior, shaped my view and inspired me deeply.
Under your tenure the CAJ did undergo a "refreshing" of it's format and content and it remains as relevant and vital today as it ever was.
Thanks for a great effort on your part.

Perry

ps) probably some misspelled names, will correct.

you'd have to line up six deep to get on that rig if it was in the valley. it'd be worth doing even if you had to yard a bit of a0.


Couldn't agree more.
It's hard to imagine ever freeing it again in this lifetime.
I've been up a couple times as a one day fun aid route and plan to do that a few more times before I get the hook. How about the old light bulb in the bivi cedar? I have no idea who put it there but it was there when I first did it with Steve Loomer in 76 and still there a couple years ago.
Kind of like the old Uncle Ben's beer can skewered on a limb at the top of the route that bears it's name.

bmacd

Trad climber
Beautiful, BC
May 4, 2010 - 02:18pm PT
I dont remember any Light bulb .... ???

Seems like there is a lot of unwritten accounts of great adventures by a couple people on this thread, particularly GF and Chief. I'm pretty curious about what went down in the 90's while I was smoking pot, shredding powder, and drinking cappuccinos in Whistler for a decade and a half.

It seems the current generation of west coast climbers ala Stanhope, Kruk, Madolonini, et. al. - their adventures are putting everyone to shame, so modesty is no excuse to remain silent.

In other words pictures, stories and tall tales of adventure from the 80's and 90's crowd are long overdue from a few of you ....

Ross Nichol and Kevin Duck, 2nd pitch University Wall, Squamish Chief
Ross Nichol and Kevin Duck, 2nd pitch University Wall, Squamish Chief
Credit: bmacd

University Wall
University Wall
Credit: bmacd

Last Pitch of Univerity Wall.  Crazy Californian Kevin Duck
Last Pitch of Univerity Wall. Crazy Californian Kevin Duck
Credit: bmacd


Chief

climber
Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2010 - 02:24pm PT
Great photos Bruce!

It seems the current generation of west coast climbers ala Stanhope, Kruk, Madolonini, et. al. - their adventures are putting everyone to shame, so modesty is no excuse to remain silent.

I'd like to think that rather than putting us to shame, Sonnie, Will, Jason and the new generation are just stepping off our shoulders and pushing the standards the way we stepped off the shoulders of Burton, Sutton, Smaill, Piro, Weinstein and those who preceded us. I never intended for my efforts to put anybody to shame, don't feel the least bit diminished by what Will's doing and would be horrified if that's how someone felt about my climbing. Will, Jason, Sonnie and others are boldly pushing on into terrain we could imagine but not grasp and they couldn't have a bigger fan than me.
bmacd

Trad climber
Beautiful, BC
May 4, 2010 - 02:26pm PT
I didnt word that correctly and you beat me to an edit ...

My apologies, yes you laid the foundations
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
May 4, 2010 - 03:03pm PT
Just a small correction to the caption on Bruce's last photo above, which he describes as "the last pitch of University Wall". In fact the route continues for another 4 or 5 pitches up the Roman Chimneys, to the top of the Chief. As I was recently quoted in Gripped magazine, "If you bale at Dance, you have not done the U Wall. Rather, you have done the High School Wall". And that is the lesson for today!
Cheers H.
Chief

climber
Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2010 - 03:06pm PT
Hamie,

Exactly!
If you haven't climbed the "Foamin Rimneys" you haven't climbed the Grand or U Wall. Nuff said!
weschrist

Gym climber
left sac
May 4, 2010 - 03:09pm PT
U Wall is fuking amazing!
bmacd

Trad climber
Beautiful, BC
May 4, 2010 - 03:10pm PT
Roman Chimneys- Squamish Chief
Roman Chimneys- Squamish Chief
Credit: bmacd

Okay let me dig up the Roman Chimney photos now Hamish. Seems Uwall got separated from Roman chimneys a while back as a distinct route.
Chief

climber
Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2010 - 03:14pm PT
Kudos to Don McPherson for nabbing the "boot flake" Chimneys direct at 10d.
Insecure wriggle up bombay/pinch to steep thin hands and jugs.
The only way to do the Chimneys. And if that doesn't satisfy how about the direct finish, originally graded 11a by Peter and Hamish but now regarded by many as pushing 5.12 if your vertically challenged?
Splingus pitch!
bmacd

Trad climber
Beautiful, BC
May 4, 2010 - 03:22pm PT
Here is one shot of Dean Hart on the Boot Flake of the Roman Chimmenys. I beleive Scott Young was the 3rd man on this trip up the Foamin Romans. We were under the impression at the time the next pitch was .11c. Did we or did we not free it ? I do not recall glory here. I do recall trying to follow Deans lead of the crux pitch free and being absolutely terrified and pumped. As I recall Dean had to aid in slings on the lead. It was a serious spanking all round for all of us. If it is 5.12 then I must have hung and wimpered also which seems to be the accurate recollection.

Dean Hart - Roman Chimmenys - Squamish BC
Dean Hart - Roman Chimmenys - Squamish BC
Credit: bmacd

Note Whillans harness and EB's !!

I have more pictures somewhere ....
MMCC

climber
New Zealand
May 6, 2010 - 06:33pm PT
Another kick-ass thread getting lost in the static. Come back!
bmacd

Trad climber
Beautiful, BC
May 6, 2010 - 08:37pm PT
Bump for Foammin Rimeneys !
gf

climber
May 6, 2010 - 10:00pm PT
Bump for the foaming rimmnies is right -i belayed will stanhope when he fired that last steep pitch and bumped through that wet lock with nary a backward glance and his last piece oh, 20 odd feet below him. A nice piece of work.
gf
bmacd

Trad climber
Beautiful, BC
May 7, 2010 - 02:22am PT
Stanhope is da man ....

Will is gunning for freeing "Up from the Skies" this summer, but I wonder if the curtains pitch should be left alone, being it's likely the hardest aid pitch in Squamish.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
May 7, 2010 - 10:38am PT
gf mentioned on another thread that there's a pitch on Son of Pan where Daryl placed 22 rurps in a row, including some equalized. So that must be in the running for hardest aid pitch in Canada, not to take anything away from the very different expanding horrors of the Curtains pitch on UFTS.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
May 7, 2010 - 11:36am PT
University Wall might be said by many to be on the left side of the Grand Wall feature, and the routes of course intersect at the top. "Grand Wall" is often used to generally refer to the entire formation.

It's a bit like the Salathe Wall - there's both a feature (southwest face of El Capitan) and a route with that name. The meaning usually depends on the context.
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