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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 28, 2010 - 01:38pm PT
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Some of the most fun to be had climbing can be found on high exposure, low 5th class climbing. It can be fun at any age, and be shared with friends of all abilities.
My personal favorite - Wham Ridge on Vestal Peak, I'm thinking Mathes Crest ranks right up there too.
Show me your fav... (I have an ulterior motive, owing to my age and multiple infirmities, these are about at the limit of my fun factor nowadays, so I'm looking for a good to-do list)
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Prezwoodz
climber
Anchorage
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Apr 28, 2010 - 01:42pm PT
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This was one of my favorites, if you skip the first pitch I think its about 5.5, in Morocco.
Follows the Ridge
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Gene
Social climber
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Apr 28, 2010 - 01:47pm PT
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Tenaya Peak, any ridge on Conness, & Cathedral Peak are all superb. Pics to follow.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2010 - 01:47pm PT
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Morocco eh?, might be a while before I get to that one. I'll put it on my "bucket list"
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Apr 28, 2010 - 01:58pm PT
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Tenaya to Tresidder
Unicorn to Cockscomb to Echos
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cleo
Social climber
Berkeley, CA
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Apr 28, 2010 - 02:25pm PT
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Lone Pine Peak
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Hell A
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Apr 28, 2010 - 02:57pm PT
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NW buttress on Tenaya
NW ridge of North Peak
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kubok!3
climber
Austin, TX
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Apr 28, 2010 - 06:40pm PT
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Bowser
Trad climber
Red River NM
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Apr 28, 2010 - 08:50pm PT
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Little Bear - Blanca- Ellingwood, Sangre De Cristos! 14'er grand slam
George Woerndle in the bowling alley backside of Little Bear
Tyler and April on top of Little Bear
Contemplating the weather, and exposure for the mile long ridge to Blanca
Committing!
Lets Go!
Downclimbing off of Littlebear
Tyler, April and George on top of Blanca
Some Exposure on the way to Ellingwood
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Apr 28, 2010 - 08:52pm PT
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^^^^^^ Yeah, extra points for choss! :-)
Are you restricting your list to Californicate?
I could recommend some world class choss further north.
Tami would do a better job of it though.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2010 - 10:59am PT
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Yeah, I've done Capitol and the Blanca Little Bear traverse - walking on stacked dinner plates with 1,000's of feet of exposure on both sides.
I am living in California now, but I get back to Colorado every now and then to visit my daughter in Denver. I'd be interested also in what's up in RMNP. I've done most of this level stuff on Long's and Hallet, but nothing else. I'm sure there's a bunch up there.
I might make a trip North, I've got a neice in Washington and have climbed a little in the Cascades (Three Sisters and Three Finger Jack)
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Apr 29, 2010 - 11:13am PT
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W Ridge of Mt Stuart is a classic with a little 5.4 - best early in the season for more snow in the gullies. One loooong day or bivy on top. Sorry, no choss though, just good granite.
edit: Just saw that pics are required. Sorry, only pic I have is from winter:
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Apr 29, 2010 - 11:30am PT
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Concur with Mungie.
Also......
Huge props for Mt. Mendel's NE Ridge....stiffest 4th class scramble I've encountered in the Sierra so far.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2010 - 11:50am PT
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That Mendel looks like the ticket. Where is it, is it a long approach, is there an easier walk off the back or do you downclimb the same ridge?
Looks like the approach is "marmot protected" :-)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 29, 2010 - 11:51am PT
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Pigeon Spire, West Ridge 5.4 - The Bugaboos, Bugaboo Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada
entering the ridge
view from approach
classic views along the climb
iconic Bugaboo's weather summit shot
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Novak
Mountain climber
Den-verrr
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Apr 29, 2010 - 11:52am PT
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RMNP:
Spiral Route, Notchtop, 5.4
North Ridge, Spearhead, 5.6
Sunshine Ledges, Ptarmigan Towers, 5.4
Blitzen Ridge, Yipsoln, 5.5 (amazing)
Thatchtop/Powel Traverse 4th/low 5th
Arrowhead/Machenrys Traverse 4th/5.4
Flattop/Longs enchainment 4th/5.2
Sorry no pics on this work computer :(
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2010 - 11:56am PT
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Ah, the Bugaboos, love to get up there. Novak, I have been drooling at pics I've seen of Blitzen Ridge. I'm going to be in Denver late October, I guess it will just depend on the weather on whether that would be "epic time" up there.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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Apr 29, 2010 - 11:58am PT
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Reilly: I was thinking of W. Ridge Stuart too. First long rock climb I ever did in the Cascades (in 1973). We hiked in from the trailhead, climbed the route, and bivyed on top. Big damn mountain.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Apr 29, 2010 - 12:03pm PT
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I recall a runout lead, and muttering: "this is a helluva lot harder than 5.4". Must have been off-route.
Yes, Fritz, I suspect you were off route which isn't hard to do and you're in good company having done so.
If you are on route it really is only 5.4 or so. It is a damn fine route on one of my fav mountains.
Side note: I was on one of the biggest rescues in Cascade history for a W Ridge team in about '74. They were third classing with rope coiled when the 'oops' occurred. He dragged his wife off but she stopped them both when she 'body-jammed' in a chimney!
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Apr 29, 2010 - 12:21pm PT
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Mendel sits above Darwin Canyon, to the west (easy approach). Take trail from North Lake TH to Lamarck Col. At the top of the col, you'll easily spot Mendel (sits right of Mt. Darwin).
Said route intially climbs the NE Face (steep) to a notch on the NE Ridge. The route pretty much follows the ridge to the west and eventually to the summit. The best descent is to go down the East Face of Mendel (3rd class but loose!.....scene of a fatality 4 years ago). Return to Darwin Canyon then slog back up to Lamarck Col and back to the TH.
Done thisun twice.....once during the Sierra Challenge (car-to-car) and with Mrs. Mooch, who loved the steep exposure. Great solo scramble.
Route description on summitpost.org:
http://www.summitpost.org/route/166630/northeast-ridge.html
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Apr 29, 2010 - 01:20pm PT
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Noth Ridge of Spearhead in RMNP is super fun and seemed easier than the 5.6 rating. I also hear Blitzen ridge on Yipsilon is good.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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Apr 30, 2010 - 12:42am PT
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bump for classic and easy.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Apr 30, 2010 - 01:04am PT
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White Maiden's Walkway, 5.1, Tahquitz. It's quite a workout for 5.1. Beautiful climb. Pretty steep for that rating too. Lots of holds and ledges everywhere though.
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qigongclimber
climber
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Apr 30, 2010 - 01:04am PT
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ok. this isn't mountaineering and i only have slides, not a digitized image. However, i just have to say that one of the best climbs anywhere for sheer joy of climbing is Ellingwood in the Wind Rivers -- 17 pitches of 5.6.
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adam d
climber
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Apr 30, 2010 - 01:38am PT
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^^^^
Ellingwood Arete pics
A wonderful climb. the middle ~800 feet are very clean and enjoyable. Lots of other (harder) potential on that face.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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The very underappreciated classic of Cabezon Peak!!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Hey, where is that Cabezon Pk? Looks like AZ.
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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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Muir Route on Mt. Ritter. A fine day in the mountains.
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Up the U-notch and over to North Pal is fun and a mix bag of mountain travel.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Social climber
Retired to Appalachia
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Jan 23, 2012 - 10:04pm PT
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Hey survival
Regarding your first photo of Cabezon... We climbed the middle of that rock face that faces the camera back in 1993 or 1994.
The last pitch was sick. It is crumbling vertical volcanic ash with a peppering of volcanic rocks (like a conglomerate). You can see the ash band as reddish-brown stripe on top in your photo.
My brother led that pitch solo wthout a belay, since there wasn't any protection. He climbed a body crack/chimney, almost like climbing vertical dirt. We took cover below and hid out of the way, since he was sending down such a barrage of rocks.
Once he got to the top, he found just a steep slope of volcanic scree, so there was no belay on the summit, either. We didn't find out that there wasn't a below from up above until we reached the top ourselves. My brother was just sitting there on loose scree with the rope wrapped around his waist, a big sh#t-eating grin on his face. He had warned us not to fall, and we were too scared to even think about falling.
It was maybe 5.7 or 5.8 max.
Easy/fun mountaineering - West Ridge of Forbidden Peak
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sjellison
Mountain climber
Range of Light
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Jan 23, 2012 - 10:42pm PT
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Moved to Boulder 3 weeks ago and I'm still sh#tting my pants.
100's of 1000s of feet of easy scrambling!
Also, Picacho Peak near Tucson is super fun Via Ferrata too!
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Todd Townsend
Social climber
Bishop, CA
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Jan 23, 2012 - 11:35pm PT
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A local's favorite around Bishop is the Southeast Face Route on Mt Emerson, 5.4 with a lot of 3rd class and some exposure.
I personally had a lot of fun on Dragon Peak last year. Class 3, according to Secor. YMMV!
Just don't look down and you'll be fine!
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Todd Townsend
Social climber
Bishop, CA
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Jan 24, 2012 - 03:27pm PT
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Oh yeah, and I almost forgot. The best true Class 3 route that I've climbed: Middle Palisade. Cool approach, good rock, sweet summit, sustained fun!
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Social climber
Retired to Appalachia
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Jan 25, 2012 - 11:22pm PT
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I love the middle pal. I think I did a class 4 route, though.
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