Discussion Topic |
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 9, 2010 - 08:58am PT
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I just spent over an hour on the phone with Ken Yager yesterday and wanted to announce our plans since they have firmed up finally and this has become an official Yosemite Climbing Association Event.
The Yosemite Park Service is granting permission with the understanding that the historical nature of the event will be emphasized, while YCA hopes that it will be the first in a series of life remembrances for some of the early pioneers of rock climbing in the Valley.
EVENTS SCHEDULE:
May 21 Friday evening
Indoor Auditorium
We will show Pat Ament’s new film on John Gill and the Early Boulderers. Exact time to be announced later.
$10 Donation requested.
May 22
Saturday Afternoon - Memorial and Get Together. Lower River Outdoor Amphitheater 1- 5 pm. Free.
Indoor Auditorium
6pm
Mexican Food and Drinks for the first 150 people
$15 Donation Requested which covers food and film.
8 pm
Second showing of Pat’s film
CAMPING:
May 21 Friday
HODGEDON
YOSEMITE PARK CAMPGROUND
GROUP CAMPSITE – D
This campsite can hold up to 30 people.
May 22 Saturday
WAWONA
YOSEMITE PARK CAMPGROUND
(Southern part of the Park)
Three single campsites have been reserved which can hold up to 2 cars and 6 people each.
GROVELAND
YOSEMITE PINES RV RESORT
PRIVATELY OWNED CAMPGROUND
(West/Northwest of Park)
Two Campsites for 6 people each have been reserved. More are available.
May 23 – 27 Sunday – Thursday morning
HODGEDON
YOSEMITE PARK CAMPGROUND
GROUP CAMPSITE – A
With any luck, another group will cancel and we will have a group campsite at Hodgedon for Saturday night also. Please send positive vibes in that direction!
Meanwhile, if you have special needs (elderly, infirm, traveling a long distance, maybe from out of state or out of country, EMAIL me about the reservations for any of the three nights.
For everyone else, the group reservations are on a first come, first served basis.
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hooblie
climber
from where the anecdotes roam
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very worthy what you've done here jan. a touching story of devotion, i'm moved even before the event by the back story...
for lack of a better word since it's an ongoing story with a generous sense of inclusion. a remembrance it will be
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elcap-pics
Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
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Sounds great... count me in... I will not need camping... good on you folks!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
Will know soon
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Jan, how do I sign up for a camping spot? So Glad it's all coming together. Peace, lynne
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Lynne, maybe we can all sleep in 510OW?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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510 OW will be there... and depending on how chummy everyone feels, there's plenty of room...
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Jan has done a magnificent job lining up adequate camping for all serious attendees! No one could have done more.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
Will know soon
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So Jaybro, where is this 510 OW site. zounds good to me. :D Yo gonna be there for the festivities ? lynnie
I'm pretty convenient sized,,,,,don't take up much space.
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Boulder Creek CA
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Apr 10, 2010 - 12:18am PT
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Tom and Chelsea planning to attend
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 10, 2010 - 12:49am PT
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lynne, ask Dr Ed.
I don't know yet, but there is a good chance...
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 10, 2010 - 12:56am PT
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Hopefully not-so-old timers can also attend. In fact, if word once gets around Camp 4, a lot of climbers may come, hoping at least for something to eat and drink, or a movie or a speaker. And wanting to honour Frank's memory. Something to think about, e.g. is there room at the various events, should they be publicized, and if so how and to who?
There can be up to 200 climbers staying just in Camp 4, not to mention other places in the Valley. Some at least will be interested.
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JesseM
Social climber
Yosemite
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Apr 10, 2010 - 01:12am PT
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Jan,
I look forward to meeting you, and I'm so glad that Ken has been able to help you so much. I'll definitely be there for at least some of the event. I'm going to have to go do a lap on Sacherer Cracker to get ready!
Jesse McGahey
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2010 - 05:10am PT
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Mighty Hiker-
One of the reasons we are showing Pat's film two nights in a row is in the hope that the folks at Camp 4 will see it on Friday and the folks for the memorial on Saturday.
Jesse-
Likewise, looking forward to meeting you and thank you for getting the initial ball rolling. You know it's interesting that the Sacherer Cracker is so well known as it was just one ascent among many to Frank. We still don't know for sure who named it, probably Bridwell, but the first Frank heard of it we were in Europe. While he was quite pleased with the name, but was certainly not the inventor of it.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Apr 10, 2010 - 09:45am PT
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I'd love to attend Jan, but it's the tail end of a climbing trip for an English friend and I'll be dropping him off at the airport in Denver- have fun!
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Slakkey
Big Wall climber
From Back to Big Wall Baby
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Apr 10, 2010 - 01:48pm PT
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From the Front Page of ST
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Apr 10, 2010 - 05:46pm PT
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Bump, for all Jan's efforts!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Apr 11, 2010 - 05:23am PT
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hey there say, jan... wow! bump for jan..
:)
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Apr 11, 2010 - 05:34am PT
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Yeah, what a cool sounding event!!!:)
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Apr 11, 2010 - 10:34am PT
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Congratulations Jan, on putting this all together.
I'm so happy for all of you that will get to be there.
It looks like it isn't in the cards for me.
There will be some extra special magic in the air for this event for sure.
Something that only a memorial for a great one, many pioneers, and the valley itself can bring together.
The riches of the world indeed.
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Park Rat
Social climber
CA, UT,CT,FL
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Apr 11, 2010 - 11:18am PT
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Jan,
I will be fashionably late to the party. Will fly in from Florida with a girl friend be there the 22nd to the 28th save some red wine for us?
I am looking forward to meeting everyone and swapping some Warren Harding stories and others of the good old days.
Susie
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2010 - 11:52am PT
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Susie-
On the 22nd we will be scattered all over the park but from the 23rd on we will have a group campsite in Hodgedon at Site A until the morning of the 27th. You can find us there and I'm sure there will be plenty of red wine and good stories.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 12, 2010 - 12:37am PT
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Well, I'm probably not an old timer, and for sure not a Yosemite old timer. But I'll be there anyway.
Those who attend and who knew Jim Baldwin, or have 1960s perspectives on climbing at Squamish and Canadian climbers, may expect a few polite questions.
Bump.
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Boulder Creek CA
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Apr 12, 2010 - 01:01am PT
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Thank you very much, Jan!
Those of you who knew me back then, please reintroduce your now-selves to me. I'll be hard to miss as the guy with the tall red-head girl at my elbow, Chelsea.
I expect to be very embarrassed in not recognizing people that I once knew well. And there are many others of you that I never met and hope to meet now.
I am still trying to piece together the timetrack of events when there was no calender nearby. So please let me know if you can shed some light.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Apr 12, 2010 - 10:44am PT
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Mighty Hiker and TomCochrane: I'm looking forward to meeting you at this event; I'll be hard to miss since I'm sharing a site with Jan and Hope. I'm actually a "Boulder old timer" who knew Jan from B4.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 12, 2010 - 12:17pm PT
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I just let Mark Powell know the details. Hopefully, he can make it along with Bonnie Kamps.
It should be a great gathering!
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2010 - 12:14am PT
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Mighty Hiker-
I hereby pronounce you old enough to attend! I worded it that way because that's how it was presented to the Park Service to get their approval. They are familiar now with the climber's historic reunion formats and approved that. Anyone of any age is welcome however.
Tom-
I suspect all of us will have problems remembering and recognizing each other but name tags are a little dorky. Steve Thompson wrote to say that he remembered you and he and Frank doing something on Reed's but can't remember the details.
Brokedownclimber-
Very diplomatic of you not to mention how many years ago but I'll say it out loud - 45 to be exact. Now how many people get to repeat their road trip of 45 years ago? One of many surprises this year!
Steve-
I would be really happy if both Mark and Bonnie can attend and if Mark can speak. I have just arrived in San Francisco and am in the middle of jet lag, culture shock, and temperature shock at the moment.I emailed Bonnie about the reunion plans but do not have Mark's number.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Apr 14, 2010 - 09:29am PT
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Steve Thompson!
If you make it to the reunion, we can reminisce doing Redguard in Eldorado 45 years ago, too! Didn't we also do the Bulge?
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2010 - 01:27pm PT
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I've just heard from him and unfortunately Steve Thompson will not be able to make it.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Apr 18, 2010 - 11:27am PT
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I'm bumping this thread as a reminder that the time is fast approaching....
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Park Rat
Social climber
CA, UT,CT,FL
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Apr 27, 2010 - 10:31am PT
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Only 26 days till Yosemite Remembrance & old timers reunion!
In my case I prefer the "Golden Girls" Reunion! Chuckle
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 27, 2010 - 11:49am PT
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This could be cool!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
Will know soon
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Apr 27, 2010 - 04:14pm PT
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Jaybro, tiny correction....this Will be cool :D
Looks like all systems are go for lynnie. It will be great to get to know more of the history of climbing and the people that have made this sport uniquely special. Looking forward to meeting you Jan. Smiles
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MisterE
Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
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Bump! Skip and I are going to attend this event, really looking forward to it.
Curious how the camping is shaping up - book us for a spot if there is one available...
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, jan, and all...
saym have FUN! you all, as i really need to say that... :O
god bless!
happy good cheer to you all...
enjoy and love ol' yosemite, too!...
:)
take some pics... :)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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name tags are a little dorky We had them at the BridwellFest, and it worked OK.
Eric: Some of us plan to stay at Hodgdon (off the 120, just inside the park) on the night of the 20th, then skedaddle into the Valley early on the morning of the 21st, and hope to find something there. It would be more central. The last I heard, Jan had some sort of camping arranged for everything but the night of the 22nd, but that may have changed.
I plan to bring something appropriate to the occasion, from Squamish.
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Park Rat
Social climber
CA, UT,CT,FL
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Only three weeks to go till the reunion!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Just another "bump" for this rapidly approaching event!
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Hello,
The official announced time for the movie on Friday the 21st at the East Auditorium is 7:00 pm. I hope to see you all there. Should be a lot of fun.
Ken
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MisterE
Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
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Great Ken! See you there!
Edit: I'll pm you Anders - thanks for the info!
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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I can't wait to see everyone!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
Will know soon
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Way behind on life due to hard drive crash. Where can we stay on the 21st ? Any ideas ?
lynnie
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Park Rat
Social climber
CA, UT,CT,FL
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Only two weeks to go,
FRANK SACHERER REMEMBRANCE & YOSEMITE OLD TIMERS REUNION
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2010 - 03:22pm PT
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I'm in Colorado currently and getting ready to head to California in a few days. I still have a lot of campsites available in Wawona and Groveland the night of Saturday 22 and the group campsite in Hodgedon on the 23rd.
If anyone wants to use these, please contact me.
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larabee
Trad climber
Cottonwood Arizona
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Tom Cochrane, Didn't i buy AC equipment from your dad 20 years ago. I met you in the Comfortmaker warehouse in Anaheim Ca...You had just got into climbing...I could be wrong....Could have been Tommy Thomson...
Larry
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Anastasia
Mountain climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
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Bump!
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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I just wander from room to room.
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Park Rat
Social climber
CA, UT,CT,FL
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Bump
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Boulder Creek CA
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Larry, I appreciate your reaching out; but I grew up in Boise Idaho where my dad worked for Idaho Power; and I started climbing in the 1950s.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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I am coming up probably Friday midday. Wouldn't want to miss the Central Oven, you know. Roger Breedlove is also coming; probably with me. I might stay around for a few days too, as there are some things to work on. I also have to speak Saturday night.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Rik Rieder confirmed today that he is attending--and bring a new pair of shoes!!!. For early 70s climbers, this is a special treat. Ed Hartouni is our rope gun (or maybe Alex Honnold--"Hey Alex, you forgot the rope forcryingoutloud.")
Steve Wunsch, in an e-mail told me, "...Sacherer was my most hero hero the whole time I climbed in Yosemite, I am truly sorry that I can't make it."
Another hopeful, Barry Bates is tied up, but I will get to see him, and climb a bit--5.7 c/d--in June.
Worrall, Graham, and Cosgrove are working in on it.
We'll get everyone together for a reunion eventually.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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I should have added that Higgins is thinking of coming. He needs encouragement though. He is afraid that the event is somehow going to be awkward. I will work on him some more. He, by his own account, is "strange". Love him though. We had dinner again a few weeks ago with Al Steck at Fred Long's gal, Nancy's place in Piedmont. V. fun. You know (g), Higgins isn't too bad once you get a couple of belts in him.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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I will really be disappointed if Tom cannot make it. It would be great to see him and he is in the thick of the 60s all-free climbing in the Valley. I also want to report that those of us who attended the Nose50 reunion were all a little worried about what to expect, with, I think, a fear that somehow we would just be hanging around with nothing to do and nothing to add. I was very surprised how easy it was to feel an easy connection and community with climbers whom I barely knew and climbers I had never met. We have such a strong, common connection.
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MisterE
Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
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Stoked! Skip and I will be up Thursday-Sunday. Thanks, Jan for the camping sites!
Really looking forward to this! What day to do Sacherer Crack is the next question...
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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NO question here, Roger.
Reunion. Those few seasons back in the sixties began a movement that has only grown more fiery and passionate by moment, lo now these 50 years!! It is not clear that we know fully why we are doing this, but we sure are still doing it and inside it, we get so terribly enriched and often pass it on to our closest.
Frank was one of just a couple few who took up the original conjecture, actually formed it, and then put themselves on this anvil. Can climbing justify its deaths there? If we count, there are very very few that have come from climbing at the top end. So the question is really a general question for all climbing and not pointed at or merely writ large for cutting edge players. Which returns us to the original point: What an ART.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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gee, I haven't been a rope gun in, let's see...... forever....
but I'll try, mostly it'll be an "off the couch rope gun" sort of outing. My new Acopa Legends worked well in the gym on Thursday... an appropriate shoe for this particular meeting.
But I'll have all the stuff needed to try anything. I can bring some hexes if anyone wants me to try "old style." Not many pitons left, and besides, people would object.
I'm going up early Friday morning, and I'm planning on being around until sometime on Monday... so lots of time to get together and play, "ride the stone" as we learned in the Yuji video. It would be great to talk to Tom Higgins, I only got to shake his hand at the Ament presentation a few weeks ago. But I can understand his reticence...
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2010 - 12:14pm PT
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Here's a Campsite update.
I have managed to reserve a group campsite which officially holds up to 30 in Hodgedon (Camp site D) for Thursday and Friday.
Saturday is still a scramble. There are sites at Wawona and Groveland (far away I know) for 36 people.More may be available at Groveland.
Sunday we have another group site for 30 at Hodgedon (Site A) which is good until Thursday morning.Other group sites are available if needed.
Everyone who has written me or posted here has a guaranteed place. I will check again in two days and then I'm on the road again. Will probably check one last time on May 15. If you don't post or make contact, then you take your chances and better arrive early.
:)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 10, 2010 - 12:22pm PT
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Jan, maybe you could post a list here of those you know are coming, at least those who're willing to have their names appear here. Maybe even say something about their situation, if known, e.g. "place at Hodgdon 21st, 23rd, 24th". Who knows, a list might encourage the lurkers and such to chime in?
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larabee
Trad climber
Cottonwood Arizona
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May 10, 2010 - 01:10pm PT
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Ok Tom, Thanks for the comback.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2010 - 06:37pm PT
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Here are the people who've contacted me that they're coming or other people have named(I hope I haven't forgotten anyone).There are doubtless others who have booked their own accomodations and not written.
Ourom-1
Stannard-1
Grossman & Mimi-2
Haan-1
Cochrane-2
Glen Denny-2
Beck-2
Dozzier-1
Erb-2
McKeown-2
D.Robinson-2 (if possible)
Colliver-2 (if possible)
Powell-1 (if possible)
Kamps-1 (if possible)
Hartouni-1
Breedlove-1
Steve & Zip-2
Worrall-1
Graham-1
Cosgrove-1
Leichtfus-1
Riley-1
Meek-1
Ament-1
Yaeger-1
Susie-1
Jaybro-1
(Not able to attend = Chris Jones & Steve Roper)
I too am hoping that Higgins can be persuaded. Perhaps it would be helpful to him to know that what the Park Service, Ken Yaeger and I have agreed on is a secular remembrance of both a person and a historical era, which Ken and I at least, hope will be the beginning of a series of such events.
The immediate reason is the extraordinary circumstances surrounding Frank's exhumation and repatriation, but we hope it will turn into something bigger than that.
I know that I have worked out all of my unresolved feelings already, mainly on Frank's biographical thread, and I hope that this will be a joyous celebration for everyone of Frank, climbing and the climbing community.
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Park Rat
Social climber
CA, UT,CT,FL
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May 10, 2010 - 07:31pm PT
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Hi Jan,
We plan to be driving into the Park on Sunday the 23rd in the early afternoon.
I will be staying at Camp Curry with a girl friend from the 23-28th.
We will look for you at Hodgdon as we drive enter the Park.
I will be bringing my Harding saga so anyone who wants can check it out. Maybe I can get some new stories to add to the script.
Looking forward to meeting everyone and trading stories.
We will be the two shivering blonds trying to stay warm, it’s near 90* here in Florida.
The Park may seem a little cool for us old warn bloods. Chuckle
Susie
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TomKimbrough
Social climber
Salt Lake City
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May 10, 2010 - 07:36pm PT
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Jan - I'll be doing my volunteer gig in the Tetons so I can't make it. Your guest list is awesome, I would love to be there.
Tom Kimbrough
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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May 10, 2010 - 11:15pm PT
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I will be there. I should say I am there. People are welcome to crash at my new pad I am building in Yosemite West if they would like. Its being sheetrocked as of now.
Chappy
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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May 10, 2010 - 11:20pm PT
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Mark Chapman will attend. Jan you may not know the names of climbers like Mark and Rik Rieder, but they were the generation that carried on the ideas of hard, long free climbing that Frank pioneered. Jay Anderson--Jaybro--is also working on attending.
PS: Well this was a stupid post. Just wait until someone posts something and then say the same thing, in the same words. Oh well...stupid is just as old a smart.
I really look forward to seeing Mark and everyone else.
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MisterE
Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
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May 10, 2010 - 11:23pm PT
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That's great news, Roger!
Skip and I just got a teardrop trailer that will be taking it's "maid"en voyage for this event. Really looking forward...
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Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
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May 11, 2010 - 11:42am PT
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My partner and I will be in Hodgdon on Saturday/Sunday/Monday nights. We'll have room for another car and 2 folks.
Larry
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Park Rat
Social climber
CA, UT,CT,FL
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May 12, 2010 - 10:11am PT
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Bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 12, 2010 - 10:28am PT
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Jan- I will be attending the event alone arriving Tuesday night 5/18 and leaving midday Wednesday 5/26. That may free up another spot perhaps.
This should be a grand event! I am psyched up for it!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 13, 2010 - 03:43pm PT
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I was thinking of maybe bringing some of these.
Would it be a good idea? (They're one litre bottles.)
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Anastasia
climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
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May 13, 2010 - 03:46pm PT
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Very nice!
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MisterE
Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
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May 13, 2010 - 06:03pm PT
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Riley - I'll do some Cookie stuff with you, for sure! Skip and I are arriving Wednesday Night and leaving Sunday morning.
Look for this:
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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May 13, 2010 - 06:10pm PT
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hey there jan, wow, say, i just stepped in to wish you best of fun, and sucess!! and wow, i see that my brother will BE THERE... ohmy, yes, of course, as he SAID he IS THERE NOW.... :))
wow, wish i could go see everyone, even though i sure dont fit in... :)
have a great time and special time, and may it be all you hoped for, jan, in so many ways (as i do not know all the history of frank)...
and, for all that my brother, chappy, give him my best, hugs, or a great handshake...
love to all, and love to chappy, most of all...
will be in your corner, jan, for this to be MOST SPECIAL TO YOU...
god bless...
:)
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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May 13, 2010 - 06:24pm PT
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i'm out--
i need to visit CU and the AAC, and that's the only week i can travel. so i'll be in the front range next week.
have fun
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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May 14, 2010 - 12:13am PT
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hey there, say,
didn't have time earlier, and not sure if you well step back in here, but, say roger, would have liked to met you, there, being that you are a good friend of mark (chappys)...
say, give him a "hey there" for me...
carry-on, all... :)
god bless!
:)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 14, 2010 - 10:44am PT
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Better make sure that torch isn't extinguished by the waves of Howe Sound seafoam!!! LOL I'd certainly raise a glass to Mr. Jim Baldwin! And of his very own brew, to boot!
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MHope
Big Wall climber
Scarsdale, New York
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May 14, 2010 - 02:09pm PT
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This is Jan Sacherer. I'm at the home of Hope Meek now, Jim Baldwin's girlfriend and former climbing partner, who is 82 years young.We are going to practice putting up her tent in the backyard this afternoon. We leave for the Valley on Sunday. A toast to Jim would make her very very happy! Let's do it.
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Park Rat
Social climber
CA, UT,CT,FL
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May 14, 2010 - 03:10pm PT
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Jan,
I Sent you an email.
SFS
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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May 14, 2010 - 05:55pm PT
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Bump
Looks like I'm around and free that weekend so I hope to see some of Ya'll at some of the events
Maybe I'll drop in on the folks camping in wawona as well!
Peace
Karl
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 14, 2010 - 06:14pm PT
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That may not be very difficult, Karl - some of us may need to camp in your backyard on Saturday night. :-)
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Slakkey
Big Wall climber
From Back to Big Wall Baby
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May 14, 2010 - 06:49pm PT
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We will be there all next week starting Mon. and should be able to make the show On Fri. night. Sadly we do have to leave on Sat. Maybe run into a few of you next week and Fri. night Always willing to support the YCA
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MisterE
Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
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May 14, 2010 - 07:24pm PT
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Hey, Jan? I didn't see Skip and I on your list. Hope we still have the reservations you e-mailed us.
Erik
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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May 14, 2010 - 08:46pm PT
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Hi there,
This should be fun and I am looking forward to seeing you all. NPS is doing a remodel in the East Auditorium right now and I could use some help straightening up the place on Friday at about 4:00pm. It would involve sweeping and putting chairs out for the 7:00 show. Any takers? If you show up either Ed Whittle or myself, perhaps both, will be around to help out.
Thank you,
Ken
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 14, 2010 - 09:31pm PT
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Ken, I can probably help with cleanup on Friday, John S also. We're in Hodgdon on Thursday night, then hoping to find space at Camp 4 Friday morning.
Howe Sound Inn & Brewing Company is donating a dozen one litre bottles of the Baldwin-Cooper Bitter, which I'll bring, with other things. In fact, the east auditorium may be just the place to keep it - it should be kept cool.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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May 14, 2010 - 09:32pm PT
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Thanks Anders,
That should cover us for the cleaning. On a related topic, Friday is BYO and Saturday I will have YEA serving beer and wine.
Ken
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JOEY.F
Social climber
sebastopol
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May 14, 2010 - 10:23pm PT
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Planning to be there Friday, would be happy to lend a hand. FL10 practice...
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 15, 2010 - 12:18am PT
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Ken, any chance of borrowing/renting a 'real' floor cleaning machine for the east auditorium? As of last autumn, it could have done with a serious cleaning. Perhaps even more so now, after the renovations. It might be a nice legacy to leave, too.
It will partly depend on what all else Jan has planned, and needs volunteers for.
FWIW, I hope to be in the Valley from the 21st - 28th or so, and would be most interested in some moderate climbing.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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May 15, 2010 - 12:31am PT
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Mighty,
I can arrange that and have checked into it. Might have to happen a day or two beforehand. Perhaps it might be better to save that hole card for the future when it will have more impact.
Ken
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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May 15, 2010 - 04:18am PT
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hey there say, chickenskinner, ol' ken...
oh my... i'd gladly help you with any need at all, 'cept i won't be there... :(
but, it's the thought that counts, here, being as to the family-links
and more... :)
send my loving regards to mark and even matt, as he may be there somewhere too, doing work... think even howard, may someday who up there...
(at mark's, not specifically the reunion, or remembrance)...
well, wish i could help, but can't
but--you never know, maybe some day...
:)
best wishes...
god bless...
:)
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MHope
Big Wall climber
Scarsdale, New York
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May 15, 2010 - 01:22pm PT
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This is Jan Sacherer again:
Neebee-
Thanks for the good wishes and am looking forward to meeting your brother for the first time.
Erik and Skip-
I got your email and you are on the list for Hodgedon Group Site D on Friday. You also got the last two places at Wawona!Sorry for the oversight.
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MHope
Big Wall climber
Scarsdale, New York
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May 15, 2010 - 01:45pm PT
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Jan Sacherer here:
CAMPING ARRANGEMENTS FINAL UPDATE:
MAY 16-17
1. THERE ARE FOUR PLACES LEFT WITH HOPE AND I AT HODGEDON. CAMPSITE NOT YET ASSIGNED.
MAY 18-19
1. THERE ARE THREE PLACES LEFT WITH HOPE AND I AT HODGEDON.
MAY 20
1. THE SINGLE CAMPGROUND WITH HOPE AND I IS FULL.
MAY 20 & 21
1. THE SINGLE CAMPGROUND WITH HOPE AND I IS FULL.
2.WE HAVE 2 PLACES LEFT AT HODGEDON AT ANOTHER SINGLE CAMPGROUND I HAVE RESERVED
3. WE HAVE 5 OPENINGS AT A GROUP CAMPGROUND AT HODGEDON, MAYBE 3-5 MORE.
MAY 22
1. THE SPACES RESERVED AT WAWONA ON SATURDAY MAY 22 ARE FULL!
THESE INCLUDE SITES 093,052,099.
2. THERE ARE 11 SPACES LEFT AT GROVELAND IN THE YOSEMITE PINES RV RESORT for the same date. They are reserved in my name.
MAY 23-27
1. THERE ARE PLENTY OF SPACES IN HODGEDON GROUP SITE A SUNDAY - THURSDAY MORNING, MAY 23-27. There are two other group sites available for overflow.
TONIGHT IS THE DEADLINE FOR ANY MORE SURE CAMPGROUND RESERVATIONS !!!
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MisterE
Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
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May 15, 2010 - 05:49pm PT
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Thanks Jan! See you all there on Friday!
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MHope
Big Wall climber
Scarsdale, New York
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May 16, 2010 - 12:02pm PT
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I'm leaving for Yosemite in 2 hours.
What's done is done and what's not done is left unfinished.
I'm still need Baroque and '60's music however if anyone can bring it with them.
Thanks!
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MisterE
Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
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May 16, 2010 - 01:57pm PT
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I am flat baroque!
..Oh wait...I got some Four Seasons here...and maybe a Brandenberg Concerto kicking around somewhere...where did I put that darn thing?
;^)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 16, 2010 - 05:41pm PT
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Sounds like we really need to gopher baroque. I'll bring my "Four Seasons" (Vivaldi) CD. Plus of course the donated beer.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 17, 2010 - 12:12am PT
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Baroque?
I can bring some music (in mp3 form) from these composers:
Claudio Monteverdi
Johann Pachelbel
Arcangelo Corelli
Henry Purcell
Antonia Vivaldi
George Frideric Handel
Domenico Scarlatti
Johann Sebastian Bach
Georg Philipp Telemann
What medium? (CD, data DVD, iPod...)
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
Will know soon
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May 17, 2010 - 12:27am PT
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Jan,
Lynne here. Just recently got a new computer as mine died about two weeks ago. I had early on touched base about a place at Hodgedon. Is it still available ? I can be there from either Thurs or Friday and leaving Monday for San Diego. Or can anyone put lynnie and her van up ..... I can live and sleep out of the van.
I can help also Ken. Looking forward to all. Sorry I have not been able to communicate....but happy to have a computer again. Love and Peace, lynnie
\
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 17, 2010 - 12:37am PT
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Lynnie, if you have a van then I can show you spots to camp... a la Yosemite dirtbags... nothing illegal about it...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 17, 2010 - 01:20am PT
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Early 60's (60 through 65) music can be pretty grim...
...any oldsters out there narrow it down a bit?
what were you listening to?
Adam Faith
Andrew Hill
Andy Stewart
The Animals
Antonio Carlos Jobim
Archie Shepp
Aretha Franklin
Art Blakey
B. B. King
Barbra Streisand
The Beach Boys
The Beatles
The Beau Brummels
Bert Jansch
Bill Evans Trio
Bill Haley & His Comets
Bill Henderson
Billy Eckstine
Bing Crosby
Bo Diddley
Bob Dylan
Bobby Vee and The Crickets
Booker T and the M.G.s
Brenda Lee
The Byrds
Capiba
Charles Mingus
Cher
Chubby Checker
Chuck Berry
Cilla Black
Cliff Adams Singers
Cliff Richard & The Shadows
Connie Francis
Count Basie
Dalida
The Dave Clark Five
Del Shannon
Dexter Gordon
Dick Morrissey
Dion
Dion DiMucci
Dion DiMucci & The Belmonts
Dionne Warwick
Dizzy Gillespie
Don Cherry
Donovan
Doris Day
Dorothy Provine
Duane Eddy
The Dubliners
Dusty Springfield
Ella Fitzgerald
Elvis Presley
Errol Garner
Everly Brothers
The Four Lads
The Four Seasons
Four Tops
Frank Sinatra
Fred Neil
The Fugs
Gary U.S. Bonds
Gene Ammons
Gene Pitney
George Mitchell Minstrels
Harry Secombe
Helen Shapiro
Herb Alpert and the Tijuana Brass
Herbie Hancock
Herman's Hermits
The Hi-Lo's
The Hollies
Howlin' Wolf
The Impressions
Jackson C. Frank
James Brown
Jan and Dean
Jerry Lee Lewis
Jo Stafford
Joan Baez
João Gilberto
Joe Brown
Joe Henderson
John Coltrane
Johnny Cash
Johnny Horton
Judy Carland
Judy Collins
Julie London
Junior Wells Chicago Blues Band
Kenny Ball, Chris Barber, Acker Bilk
The Kingston Trio
The Kinks
Larry Young
Lee Morgan
Lonnie Dnegan
Los Relámpagos del Norte
The Lovin' Spoonful
Manfred Mann
Maria Bethânia
Marianne Faithful
Marvin Gaye
Max Roach
The McCoys
Mel Tormé
Merle Haggard
Miles Davis
The Moody Blues
Muddy Waters
Nancy Wilson
Nat King Cole
Nina Simone
Odetta
Oliver Nelson
Ornette Coleman
Oscar Peterson
Otis Redding
Patrick Sky
Patsy Cline
Patti Page
The Paul Butterfield Blues Band
Paul Simon
Perry Como
Peter, Paul and Mary
Petula Clark
Phil Ochs
The Pretty Things
Rahsaan Roland Kirk
Ray Charles
Ray Conniff
Richard Farina and Mimi Farina
Ricky Nelson
The Rolling Stones
Rosemary Clooney
Roy Oberison
Sam Cooke
Sam the Sham and The Pharaohs
Sammy Davis, Jr.
The Seekers
The Shadows
Shirley Bassey
Simon & Garfunkel
The Simon Sisters
Skip James
Smokey Robinson and the Miracles
The Sonics
Sonny and Cher
Stan Getz
Stan Tracey
Sun Ra
The Supremes
Ted Curson
Ted Heath & His Music
The Temptations
Terry Gibbs
Them
Tom Jones
Tom Rush
Tony Bennett
Tony Hancock
Tupper Saussy
Vaughn Meader
Vince Guaraldi
The Vogues
The Wailing Wailers
The Walker Brothers
Wayne Shorter
The Who
Willie Nelson
Wynton Kelly and Wes Montgomery
The Yardbirds
The Zombies
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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May 17, 2010 - 03:21am PT
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But I'm an old timer and I'm into Buckethead, Orianthi Panageros, Rob Balducci and Tommy Emanuel. I just can't listen to that old sh_t anymore. Too much like listening to Central Valley rock station on the way back to the Bay from the Valley.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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May 17, 2010 - 08:18am PT
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hey there say, .... yeahhhhhhh, lynne.... she's back.... computer-wise, as otherwise, she'd never left.... :) ;)
hey there lynne... missed you!
god bless...
:)
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 17, 2010 - 11:43am PT
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I vote (as usual) for heavy on the Miles/'Trane...
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
Will know soon
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May 17, 2010 - 04:59pm PT
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Ed, have van ..... please, could use your help in finding a place to recon.... Thanks. Will you be there Friday as I will need a Friday to Sunday night place to live. Lynnie
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 17, 2010 - 06:57pm PT
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I'm planning on being there Friday morning through Monday...
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MisterE
Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
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May 17, 2010 - 09:00pm PT
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Meh. Sad to report we are not going to be able to make this event.
Jan, please make our reserved sites available for the next in line. Hope that is Lynnie!
So sorry we are missing this,
Skip and Erik
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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May 18, 2010 - 12:03pm PT
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Jan-
As you are already aware of my reasons for being unable to attend, I decided to reveal some of the problems here to those whom I planned to meet and climb with.
On 25 April I took a fall on a decent in Eldorado Canyon, managing to break several ribs in the process. I was initially encouraged by my Dr. of a fairly prompt and uneventful recovery. Complications of blood clots in the lungs required anti-coagulation which was overdone, and led to internal bleeding that nearly finished me. I'm now home from the hospital and wishing that I were in Yosemite with my climbing friends.
There will be another time for a Yosemite visit this fall or certainly next year.
I too, plan to lift a cold one this next weekend to "absent companions."
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 18, 2010 - 04:30pm PT
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hey BDC, give us a yell when your plans are solid and we'll make sure you have partners...
...heal well!
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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May 18, 2010 - 07:45pm PT
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May be able to make it up May 22nd, but the afternoon of the 21st am having an infected upper left molar yanked. Bet I don't want to travel right afterwards.
Looks as if it's gonna rain, but so what!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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May 18, 2010 - 11:09pm PT
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Thanks Ed! I'm mainly still very sore and very anemic from blood loss from internal bleeding. Did have a cold beer tonite, though.
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okie
Trad climber
San Leandro, Ca
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May 19, 2010 - 09:18am PT
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Will some of the Sacherer classics be revisited? Reeds Left...there's a vintage bolt on the 2nd pitch with a cool hangar made out of some sort of sawed-off horizontal piton- a Sacherer bolt?
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Park Rat
Social climber
CA, UT,CT,FL
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May 20, 2010 - 06:54am PT
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Bumb
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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May 20, 2010 - 05:44pm PT
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hey there say, jan... if you are around,.... make sure to check with ken... he should have a very small package for you...
if not, hopefully by friday or sat...
best wishes to all...
god bless...
:)
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 21, 2010 - 02:23am PT
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Rodger,
Sorry to hear about the injuries. Hopefully you'll be feeling better fairly soon.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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May 21, 2010 - 10:13am PT
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Clint-Many thanks!
Rodger
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
Will know soon
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May 21, 2010 - 01:15pm PT
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Blood Thinners are dangerous.....get better pronto :D
Hope to arrive at Hodgedon @ 2-4 and would like to stay in Eric and Skippies site if possible. Or anywhere :D
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 21, 2010 - 02:20pm PT
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They're out. Look for 510OW.
I'm leaving in a bit, trying to do car deal (green Saab Wagon) or I'll be in the grey (Rose quartz™) hatchback I had at your house, Lynn
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Pointman
Big Wall climber
Newark, California
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May 21, 2010 - 05:32pm PT
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Frank was the classiest climber I knew and was honored when he asked me to climb one day with him. He was scrapping the barrel for someone to belay him. : ) Did Moby Dick with him and later he confided he was perusing it for elimination of any aid,which he did at a later date. At the time I was rated pretty highly and upcoming in the ranks but, never really lost the title of one of Bridwells Boys. He was pretty happy with my belaying technique. We did agree to climb again soon but alas, I got my draft notice soon after, was off to swatting bugs in SE Asia and never got back to climbing. Guess the death wish got taken away from me. I stray...... Recently found my way to this site to look up old buds and was going to get down to Bridwellfest to say hello to a few old buds, mainly Jimmy, but a nasty infection set into my left knee and hospitalized me for a week after surgery, and have just finished rehab and a very hefty several rounds with anitbiotics to get it gone. Upon getting acquainted with this site.........heard of Frank's demise and can only say, glad he is getting plenty of attention with you all. He was ACES!!
For those taking notice of Mr. Baldwin? I got to know him pretty well over the unlit campfire at the Lodge for a couple days, and was awoken a gloomy morning, along with a couple other climbers, by rangers lead in by Wally Reed to help in getting him back for burial, down from a rumored ledge he ended up on in his fall from the Column. I also discovered him as we approached the wall, not up on ledges after all, but further down. Seemed as tho Evans, (can't remember his first name) was so in shock and out of sorts upon repelling down, that he was remiss in his directions. Not a great day at all for those of us climbers who went to get a brother down. Guess he had repelled off the end of a short rope in the dusk, as they were in decent.
Anyway..........with my limited knowledge of the two, past the mid sixties, but steadfast respect and brief friendship of Mr. Baldwin I will salute with a couple well picked brews to them. FRANK SACHERER was Da Man of Men.....
I also learned of Galen's accident as well. Attempted El Cap, with he and Tom Fender, only to drop the water on the free fall traverse as the hauler of that pitch, and caused us to repel down only to have a storm move in, and me having to get back for a important mid term so, they climbed it a week later without me to post the fastest time ever. 3 Days! LOL!! On my fortieth birthday I went up there, and showed my wife the climb only to discover 3 groups on it, all climbing it in one day. Damn!!!
Oh well....thanks for listening and allowing my rant. May Huey be with them all forever!!! Mike Kilmer.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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May 21, 2010 - 06:31pm PT
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Wow, Mike Kilmer. I remember you. We always wondered what happened to you. Thanks for sharing!
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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May 21, 2010 - 08:52pm PT
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I AM BUMMING in the biggest way! Can't make this weekend, got family events I'm attending to this weekend. My heart and soul are with all of you, have a blast and be safe. Wish I could be there!
Peace
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Mimi
climber
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May 21, 2010 - 10:02pm PT
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Thanks for posting, Mike. Good stuff.
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Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
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May 22, 2010 - 11:45am PT
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My partner and I have also canceled plans to be there. It'll be great. So sorry not to attend.
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hooblie
climber
from where the anecdotes roam
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May 22, 2010 - 01:20pm PT
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respect is something that travels across the ether,
a note that sustains independent of the passage of time.
while friends are gathering to honor the fallen,
many of us in the wings feel the tug of emotion
that bears witness to a man's great reach.
we're here, in another form of attendence
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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May 22, 2010 - 01:41pm PT
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Even tho' I'm physically absent the proceedings, my thoughts and best wishes are with you, Jan.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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May 23, 2010 - 02:54pm PT
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hey there say, cragman... wow, will be so interested in learning and hearing about all... and happy to hear of the good times, too...
take care... wondering how the leg is doing..
god bless...
:)
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 23, 2010 - 03:57pm PT
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Thanks, Dean.
and thanks for the spelling edits.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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May 23, 2010 - 04:48pm PT
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Thanks for posting the photos! I really didn't want to miss this event.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
Will know soon
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May 24, 2010 - 12:22am PT
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Just returned home. It was awesome. I was leaning on the side of not attending, but a friend encouraged me to make the event. Lesson learned: even if the weather and other details are not working, be involved and you will evolve.
The rich history shared by climbers that attended was superb. I wish I'd captured it better. I was pretty overwhelmed by the entire event. It was probably smaller than Jan had planned for but it was PURE GOLD.
I will share the few pics I took. Trying not to be to hard on meself for not taking more. Like I said, it was awesome. lynnie
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 24, 2010 - 01:36am PT
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I wish I could have been there, but it just wasn't in the stars.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 24, 2010 - 10:22am PT
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Breedlove, you dog! Aside from the grey hair, you haven't changed much from the mid-seventies.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
Will know soon
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May 24, 2010 - 11:53pm PT
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Awesome pics, Cragman! It was super great to meet you in person for the first time. Wish many more could have experienced this unique weekend.
Like climbing, even when circumstances aren't perfect sometimes ya gotta go for it....glad we did. What a great event. Thanks Jan, Ken and all who made it happen.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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May 25, 2010 - 12:27pm PT
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Nice set of photos! Sorry I missed the event. Too brokenup instead of merely "brokedown."
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Pointman
Big Wall climber
Newark, California
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May 25, 2010 - 06:15pm PT
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>>>Wow, Mike Kilmer. I remember you. We always wondered what happened to you. Thanks for sharing!<<<
Wow back at ya Mr. Haan. Surprised anyone remembers the likes of me. Your name is familiar to me as well. That aside, it is simply a super high to venture on here and visit the way back machine, to see so many names, blasts from the pasts if you will, that I either new, briefly new, worshiped, climbed with, or heard of their exploits, as history was being developed during those days. The photos alone provide solace to this here past climber who walked in the footsteps of greatness, in a valley of mesmerizing thought provoking beauty, and rubbed elbows with the likes of Sacherer, Robbins, Pratt, Beck, Kor, Baldwin, Little Joe, Galen, et al, as the then San Jose contingent of Bridwell, Bircheff and Bircheff, Kilmer and Kilmer entered the valley for the first time. Glad to know I got the Bircheffs climbing in the beginning and found them to have carried on to doing great things and partnered with Jim as well to do some good things before departing the seen, so to speak. Hail the likes of Frank Sacherer who pushed the envelope like no other in his time, with what he did best, eliminating direct aid wherever he could, whenever he could, for the betterment of the sport. I do think that the word sport does not apply when you think of it......as you all seem to have carried on the "LIFE". I salute you all!! take it light..... mike kilmer.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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May 26, 2010 - 04:13am PT
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Sick that I couldn't make it down there. Missed ya'll! Next time
Peace
Karl
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 26, 2010 - 01:07pm PT
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Jan and Steve went up to Yosemite Point on Friday to bury Frank's ashes, but weren't able to get photos. jstan tried on Monday, and found the general area, but not the exact location. There was a weather window on Tuesday, so with more detailed information from Steve, I went to Pointe Sacherer/Sacherer Point, and took some photos of the site where Frank's ashes were placed, and the surroundings and view. It's a lovely spot about 100 m northeast of the railing at Yosemite Point, and a bit higher.
I'll post the photos when I get home, together with detailed information on location. (I should have thought to borrow a GPS, to get exact location.) Tom Evans is going to take some high-resolution photos from below, from Ahwahnee Meadow, and we'll post them too.
Edit: I understand that it's OK with the NPS to discreetly spread ashes, and that any necessary permits etc were obtained.
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hollyclimber
Big Wall climber
Yosemite, CA
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May 26, 2010 - 01:36pm PT
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Might want to reconsider this detailed info on this forum. My understanding from my ranger sources is that "Memorializing" is illegal in the park, including spreading ashes.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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May 26, 2010 - 03:42pm PT
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I believe that this was all cleared way in advance for Jan! I don't believe there is any prohibition against the spreading of ashes in a discreet manner.
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WBraun
climber
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May 26, 2010 - 04:21pm PT
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Go up to Glacier Point at the railing some time.
Take a close look down and you'll see small bone remnants everywhere from past "Memorializing" ......
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Boulder Creek CA
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May 27, 2010 - 01:47am PT
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Thank you very much to everyone who helped make this event happen. It was a wonderful experience to meet with all of you.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 27, 2010 - 03:08am PT
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The Physics of Frank Sacherer
delivered by Ed Hartouni at the Frank Sacherer Remembrance, May 22, 2010, Yosemite Valley, CA.
Jan has asked me to explain to you the physics that Frank Sacherer did in his life and she has given me 15 minutes to do it in. Perhaps you can imagine the difficulty if you imagine trying to explain Frank's climbs to an audience of non-climbers. However, physicists believe that if you understand your physics you can explain it to a bar maid. I've actually attempted this several times, the results are always the same; the next morning when upon waking with a hangover you realize the bar maid was better at her job than you were at your's.
How Sacherer came to study the physics of particle accelerators is not known to me. I looked in his 1968 thesis and in his "Acknowledgement" chapter we find no clues. The only clue really is Jan's observation that Frank liked what we call "Classical Electrodynamics," and U.C. Berkeley, and the Lawrence Berkeley Laboratory, often referred to as the "Rad Lab," were the center of particle accelerators in the 60s, so maybe it is not too strange to think that Sacherer would pursue his physics interest in an exciting area like particle physics. But not the part about the particles, about the parts of how to get the particles to move.
I can't possibly describe in detail what particle physics is, what it tries to study. But the method that we use is age old, we bang two things together hard enough so that they brake apart. The component parts go spraying all over, we collect them and try to figure out how the things we broke are built. This involves relativistic quantum field theory, sophisticated experimental apparatus, and particle accelerators. And what we are braking apart will tell us how the universe is constructed, at least in terms of the material universe that is the object of a physicist's study.
One way we brake things, particles like protons and electrons, apart is to get them going at a high speed, close to the speed of light and then arrange to have them collide. The particle accelerator does the job of accelerating the particles to those speeds.
These accelerators work because the particles have electric charge, and we arrange a situation in which they are attracted to by opposite charges.
Climbers know about this, they have mass, the Earth has a bigger mass, gravity will accelerate the climber, attracting the climber towards it. This works fine until the surface of the Earth intervenes and stops the climber's motion.
So falling is one to accelerate, but the nature of falling from a cliff and hitting the ground isn't the best way to accelerate to high velocities. Perhaps if you drilled a hole through the center of the earth and jumped in... if you could neglect the drag due to the air it would take you 8 hours to return to where you dropped in, because the pull of gravity that accelerates you on the way to the center of the earth, de-accelerates you as you move away from the center of the earth... where you are moving at the brisk pace of roughly 4 times the speed of sound.
Surfers, skate boarders, skiers, skydivers have all figured out a way to fall but never hit the ground. The surfers are the most interesting case.
Surfers paddle their boards to get going about as fast as a wave is passing by and then drop down the front side of the wave. The surfer than matches the speed of the wave, falling as fast as the wave is moving, by maneuvering on the wave. The wave is moving, and so is the surfer. This is how a particular type of accelerator works. You may have seen such an accelerator if you drive on interstate-280 around Palo Alto you see the Stanford Linear Accelerator going by. There electrons surf the radio frequency electromagnetic waves, accelerating in a straight line.
If you can imagine a surfer catching a wave that travels around the world, then you can imagine the type of accelerator that Frank studied, one in which the particles, in his case protons, are turned in a circular path by a magnetic field. There are many magnets arranged around a circle to do this, and the magnets have different functions, some to turn the protons, some to focus them on their path. When there are only a few protons everything works out fine. But you run into problems when you have a lot of them, and you need a lot of protons to do the physics.
These protons travel in bunches just like surfers catching different waves in a set of waves, the surfers will be found on the leading edge of the waves, as the protons are found on the leading edge of the electromagnetic waves. Now if you try to squeeze the protons too close together they start to repel each other, same for the surfers. They spread out loosing their bunchieness.
That may work for surfers, but it isn't good for particle accelerators. We say the particle bunch becomes unstable.
Frank's work dealt with understanding the instability of particle beams as they circulated around the accelerator's circumference, his particular contribution was in the theory of longitudinal instability, like what happens if you have so many surfers on a wave that there are surfers in front of and behind each other. To make it even more challenging, as the particles go around the accelerator, the pass the same magnets over and over again, and if there are imperfections in the way the magnets are placed, the effect of the imperfection can build up over time, and eventually lead to the beam being lost. How this happens is like being on a swing. You start out just sitting there. If you kick your feet you start to swing a little. Then you kick your feet at just the right time, you can swing a bit more, you keep doing this until you are swinging a lot. Those kicks are timed to be in resonance with the particular swing you're on, and if you were a bunch of particles, you'd be all over the place.
The best bunch is something that has as many particles in it that you can manage, and the smallest cross sectional area you can achieve. In these conditions, the instabilities of the beam are the greatest.
After going to CERN, the European Center for Nuclear Research and currently the home of the largest accelerator that has been built, Frank worked on the basic theory of these instabilities. His work systematically categorized them, and became of great use to the accelerator physicists designing the next generation of machines for the next big physics experiments at the time. Even his getting a job at CERN was extraordinary, at the time American's did not have an easy time getting an appointment, CERN was created to rebuild European science after World War II with restrictions on the participation of physicists from the United States.
In his work at CERN he derived the fundamental formula describing these instabilities, now referred to as the "Sacherer Integral" which in some ways is like having a climb named after you, say the "Sacherer Cracker" or as we call it today "Sacherer Crack." These integrals were the result of his looking at the phenomena and extracting the essential physical characteristics, then deriving the mathematical descriptions governing the motion of these bunches of particles traveling in the accelerators.
In the late 70s he started to lay out the theory of a technique that an accelerator engineer, Simon van der Meer, devised to keep the protons in line. The idea was that you could measure the position of the protons at one point of the ring, and as they were spinning along the circumference of the accelerator, you could send that information to some actuators by a short cut, say along the diameter of the circle, in time to kick the protons back into the right distribution. We call it "cooling the beam" and it goes by the name of "stocastic cooling." This allowed the creation of beams with very large numbers of protons, and very small cross sectional areas. Frank worked out the theory for this idea, an important contributions since it was unknown whether or not the beams would be stable to the "kicking."
This lead to the creation of two very large accelerators, one at Fermilab and one at CERN that raced to find an important particle, found at CERN. The importance of this particle was recognized with a Nobel Prize, and very unusually, van der Meer, who thought up "stocastic cooling," was a co-recipient. In his Nobel address he recognizes Frank's contribution, this after Frank's death.
Frank's papers are still cited by accelerator physicists who are studying and designing accelerators. That is the best recognition that a physicist could have, that his work outlives himself. Just like in climbing, we can still climb Frank's climbs in Yosemite Valley, and get a sense of his climbing contribution, we actually measure our own abilities against his list of climbs here.
Frank's physics insights continue to contribute to our understanding of the universe, laying an important piece of the foundational knowledge required to build the accelerators we use to probe the universe.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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May 27, 2010 - 11:32am PT
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Thank you Ed for offering this simplification of a most complex topic that now even I can comprehend.
It was great to see old friends and meet new ones and share some stories of the past. Kudos to Jan, Ken and Steve for putting this together.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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May 29, 2010 - 11:57am PT
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Ed
The first photo is John with Steve Moyles.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 29, 2010 - 12:25pm PT
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Cragman, "Steve ?" is Steve Grossman in the photo above
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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May 31, 2010 - 09:41am PT
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Ed and company,
Thanks for your reports on this event. I wish that I could have been there to celebrate Sacherer and his contemporaries. The event looks like it was a fitting conclusion to Ed's original Sacherer thread, which is a marvel.
Rick
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 31, 2010 - 06:51pm PT
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Roger and John at our dinner at the Mountain Room, Monday evening. John apparently looking forward to a change from macaroni & cheese.
Did you know that Canadians eat the most Kraft dinner per capita of any nation?
Steve and ParkRat. Suzie provided a rather interesting perspective on Bridwell's sartorial tastes.
ParkRat's friend/neighbour Judy, with Rik. Judy may have found the weather, a tent cabin at Curry, and us climbers a bit much, but was game for an adventure. (I believe they later visited relatives on the coast, somewhere warm and sunny.)
Ed Whittle, doing what he does so well.
A word from one of the sponsors. One bottle was given to each person present who knew Frank Sacherer or Jim Baldwin (or both), with a few left over for special guests.
More photos later - waiting to hear from Steve if I went to the right place.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 31, 2010 - 07:49pm PT
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Thanks for the photos MH, wish I could have been there.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 1, 2010 - 06:21am PT
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I just got back to Okinawa.
Sorry we missed the get together in the Mountain Room. Hope and I finally found a motel room in Merced at 3 am after the memorial and then just drove on to the Bay Area the next day. After that I was incommunicado at a Buddhist retreat center.
More to be said after I recover from my 23 hour journey back to Japan!
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Jan,
Just received this picture of Frank today taken by Tony Qamar.
Ken
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
Will know soon
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Trekking to No Cal in May I met Phil Bone and his wife Constance. Phil is a bitd climber as well as a talented carpenter and wood worker ..... he's just started painting. I bought one of his first works. Hopefully he will have a piece to auction off at the YCA fund raiser in July. One very talented Dude.
Entered the Valley of Wow to Honor Frank Sacherer and the birth of spring in one of the most awe inspiring places on earth. ( At least for me.)
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
Will know soon
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Met many climbers from back in the day who were kind enough to share the richness of the communities history with me.
Pat Ament
Hope Meek signing my Yosemite Climber Book. Hope was one of the first women to climb in the Valley.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Roger at the east auditorium. He was saying "I'm Roger Breedlove, and I'm badass" to Ed and Steve. Hence their reaction.
In Roger's hands, the much-autographed copy of Yosemite Climber, eventually to be auctioned for a good cause.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Lynne,
I think you meant Hope was one of the relatively rare women climbers in Yosemite in the late 50s/early 60s. Not one of the very first ever.
Sarah Dutcher climbed Half Dome in 1875.
above photo is Sarah L. Dutcher.
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Egalic/history/halfdome/index.html
"Freddy" Hubbard did Washington Column Direct in 1947.
And several women climbed in Yosemite in the intervening time.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
Will know soon
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Jason Wilson from CO was a fun person to meet. He was kind enough to extend a climbing invitation to lynnie for a unique bouldering area. Thanks Jason ! :D
and it was cool to see " the Bridge Mon" there
as well as "history man" Steve Grossman....missed you big time Mimi !!!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
Will know soon
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Ja, Clint ..... Hope told me she was one of the first women in her generation to climb in Yo Valley. Good to know there were others before her and then with her. Not many tho. :D
Edit: Freddy Hubbard is bad a. If she can climb Washingtons Column and Half Dome in that Outfit......I have alot of Hope. :DD Seriously !!!!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Lynne,
Did Hope say which climbs she did?
P.S. That photo I posted was Sarah L. Dutcher, around 1875, not Freddy Hubbard in 1947. I relabelled it - maybe clearer now?
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
Will know soon
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Clint, let me reflect what she said...... It's late and I'll post rest of pics manana now that I have my new computer under pic posting control thanks to all yo out there.
Clint, I do know the one thing she emphasized was that she had to pretty much beg guys to let her go along on the climbs. I guess yo could be hard core and say why didn't she just do it herself, but cut the gal slack....she attempted a solo on the Golden Gate Bridge. :D
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JOEY.F
Social climber
sebastopol
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Nice to have been there for the Friday night showing of Deciples of Gill. Good to see you Lynne. Just barely crossed paths with Ed and Jo, Ed H., Anders...Not able to go the Memorial on Sat, oh well, good vibes, good times. Paths will cross again, no doubt.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
Will know soon
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Ja, hope so Joey. Are you able to be part of this years Facelift ?
Yo must be famous ...... everyone seems to know you. I thought you were Joey F. like I am Lynne L. Just a regular ST'er.
Is it the pickles you won't give out the receipe for ? Are they like Joey's famous pickles ? The number 1 Fortune 500 Dill. "Jess wonderin'" like Jingy would say. Kiddin' around and a little dopey cause it's past my legal bedtime.
Peace Dude and have a Gute Nacht. :D
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Hey Anders, I think the line is "I'm Mark Hudon and I'm badass," our mantra to get up the hard parts.
I was able to collect more signatures for Marty's signature book project-- Jan Sacherer (edited--see below) for Frank, John Stannard, Bonny Kamps for Bob, Gary and Reva Colliver, Eric Beck, Dick Erb, Jeff Dozier, Glen Denny, Joe McKeon, John Dill, Werner Braun, Mike Lichlinski, Dean Potter, Dean Fidelman. Steve Grossman had Tom Frost sign when he visited him after the weekend.
Alpinist will run a photo montage of the book in the up-coming issue on the Off Belay.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2010 - 07:29am PT
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Roger-
I signed for Frank using Jan Sacherer which is my legal name and the name I publish under.
I put both names on my email so old students who knew me from years ago can still find me.
: )
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Thanks for the clarification, Jan. Good to meet you. Thanks for signing the Yosemite Climber book.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2010 - 07:52am PT
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Roger-
It was a pleasure to contribute to a worthy cause.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2010 - 10:58am PT
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Miscellaneous Thoughts on the Memorial
Obstacles
It seemed that there were no end of obstacles placed in the way. The most nerve wracking was having my old friend Rodger Raubach end up in the hospital three times in the two weeks before I left for the Valley, since he was in charge of the camping gear and Frank’s remains, which were mailed from Japan. Thanks to his heroic efforts between hospital stints, I was able to fly out of Denver on schedule, but our carefully thought out camping gear remained in Colorado, leaving Hope Meek and I to regroup in Reno on the spur of the moment.
The weather was miserable for at least the week before and the week after, making the lack of down gear and other amenities even more noticeable. Hope and I ended up sleeping in the back of her car when the temps went down to the ‘30’s and we fled to a motel during the 24 hours pouring rain. We had hoped to stay in Camp 4 and meet more people (including Susie Fisk Stern) but had had enough by the time the memorial was over. Even so, we were stopped three times by the police between the memorial and Merced where we finally spent Saturday night. And we had to pay a big fine for rushing off and leaving food out the day before the memorial – to the “Central Violations Bureau” no less.
Hope and I had spent the week before the memorial familiarizing ourselves with everything and then got lost in a traffic jam the day of. Thanks forevermore to Glen Denny whom we picked up walking by the side of the road, who was able to call Ken for directions and then help us find the place.
Thanks also to Glen for his wonderful enlargement of the photo of Frank from his book on Yosemite in the ‘60’s. The fact that we had to move from the outdoor amphitheater to the auditorium shortly after the memorial began as sleet and then torrential rain fell, was totally in keeping with the whole scene and meant that Glen’s photo was never displayed as intended but did make it back to Okinawa with me where it is treasured and soon to be framed. Likewise the beautiful dream catcher that Neebee (Lizzy) sent which we tied to the microphone at the amphitheater before it started raining.
Highlights
The tremendous coming together of everyone involved to provide so many different kinds of support for the endeavor and to bring the whole exhumation and repatriation process to an honorable conclusion.
Special thanks to Steve Grossman who volunteered to take on the task of finding a final resting place for Frank’s remains, close to what was Frank and Chuck Pratt’s favorite climb. This involved two days of strenuous activity and a lot of discernment on his part.
Special thanks also to Hope Meek who provided her house as a staging area, her car and her driving, and her companionship through rain, snow, and sleet. We both came seeking resolution of relationships and tragedies of long ago and found friendship, laughter, and wonderful times along the way. We especially had a good time the two nights we camped with Steve Grossman.
Thanks also to Salvatore and Shea and their daughter of Sal’s Mexican Restaurant of Mariposa, for their excellent catering at the memorial and for going out of their way to serve the leftovers to climbers in Camp 4 afterwards. Also to Tom Cochrane who helped me walk through Camp 4 to announce the free food available in the parking lot. One of the comments Sal's family overheard was “Thank you so much, this is the first hot meal we’ve had in two months”. Of all the things said and done at the memorial, this is probably the one that would have pleased Frank the most.
Thanks Also Due
1. To everyone who persevered through snow, sleet, rain, and long drives to get there.
2. To everyone who spoke and in many cases, contributed anecdotes I had never heard before (Ed Hartouni, Tom Cochrane, Eric Beck, Dick Erb, Jeff Dozzier, Gary Colliver, Rodger Breedlove, and Dean Rosnau).
3. To Ed Hartouni who started the ST thread that began it all.
4. To all of the many contributors to the ST thread.
5. To Klara Weis, the widow of Joe, who helped me understand the accident and shared all the trials of the exhumation, becoming a new friend in the process but oneof several who couldn’t make it to the memorial.
6. To Jean-Claude Bourigault, Christine Petit-Jean-Genaz and Gottfried Schemel of Geneva for their emails and phone calls to various levels of the French bureaucracy.
7. To John Rander and his wife Brigitte for their many phone calls and their English translations of lengthy French legal documents.
8. To Ken Yaeger who organized the permit process after initial help from climbing ranger Jesse McGahey and Christina Thorpe of Special Park Uses. Thanks also to Ken for the backup alternatives when the weather fell through.
9. To the people who contributed their films to be shown (Tom Cochrane, Pat Ament, Hope Meek).
10. To John Stannard and Anders Ourom who cleaned up the auditorium before hand and the unknown people who cleaned up afterwards.
11. To Anders for bringing his Baldwin and Cooper heritage beer all the way from Canada along with his introduction of the Cooper and Baldwin film.
12. To the Yosemite non profit group who provided the other drinks.
My apologies to anyone I’ve left out. Feel free to note any errors and I will be sending out private emails to the many people involved as soon as I finish a professional article I’m editing against a deadline.
Jan
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Special thanks to Jan, Hope, Ed, and all the others who put in such an effort to make the event happen, and travel from great distances.
It was pretty poor weather for late May in Yosemite, and I was very impressed that Hope and Jan nonetheless mostly camped. The weather perhaps kept the attendance down, but everyone who was there contributed, and was moved. It really went very well.
I visited the area Jan mentions last Tuesday, and took photos which I've sent to her and Steve.
Yes, Roger actually recited the mantra "I'm Mark Hudon, and I'm badass" as his inspiration. But I thought a bit of poetic licence was in order.
Happy to have attended and helped a bit with the event, although in the end the auditorium was already tidy when I got there at noon Friday, ready to clean. There were enough other things to do anyway.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 6, 2010 - 06:36am PT
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Since the issue has come up, I wanted to verify that I did have permission to scatter the ashes and in fact it is perfectly legal within the park subject to certain constraints (see below).
http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/ashes.htm
Scattering Cremated Remains
The National Park Service normally grants permission to those wishing to scatter cremated remains within the borders of Yosemite National Park.
To receive permission, please send a letter to Special Park Uses, National Park Service, PO Box 700-W, El Portal, CA 95318. Include in your letter your name, address, and daytime phone number. Also include the name of the deceased and his/her relationship to you (e.g., sister, husband, mother, friend, etc.).
With a letter of permission, you may scatter cremated remains with the following conditions:
All such activity must be done out of sight of any public access, such as roads, trails, parking areas, etc.;
All such activity must be at least 100 yards from any watercourse;
Cremains must be spread over an area large enough that no single portion is accumulated in one place.
No markers of any kind may be left to commemorate the event. However, the Yosemite Chapel keeps a Book of Memories and the deceased's name could be entered in that book. Please call the chapel at 209/372-4831 for more information.
Yosemite National Park is under federal jurisdiction and is, therefore, sovereign in its lands and not subject to the limitations regarding land use by the State of California. Permission by the National Park Service to scatter cremated remains assumes that necessary permission from the state has been secured for the disposition of cremated remains.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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who is Aaron Fresh and why is he hosting my YouTube videos?
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Majid_S
Mountain climber
Bay Area , California
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sue him Ed
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2010 - 01:55pm PT
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I had the same question Ed.
At least he give you credit for them.
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