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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Thanks... Both have a 1965 copyright. My guess would be that the more elaborate cover is the first printing.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 6, 2010 - 11:20am PT
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Time for a reading of Fred's bunyans! LOL
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Was this the first guidebook that Fred wrote?
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Fred's first guide was "Climber's Guide to the Cascade and Olympic Mountains." Published 1949 by the American Alpine Club. This was reissued in 1953, with a supplement bound in (like Culbert's two Coast guides). He wasn't directly involved in the 1961 edition, "edited by George R. Sainsbury, based on a previous edition by Fred." This was also published by the AAC.
That was it for comprehensive guides to the Cascades, until Fred's "Alpine Guide" series started appearing in the 1970s; these were published by the Seattle Mountaineers. The Olympics weren't part of this series.
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Darryl Cramer
Social climber
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My guess would be the simpler cover came later. The simpler cover version was available in new condition at some sporting shops into the 80s. I am pretty sure I bought my first copy from an Eddie Bauer shop at the strip mall version of Bel Square on my first trip up from Ca (1978).
For those interested there is a list of WA guidebooks w/ sample pages here:http://www.rcnw.net/forums/index.php?autocom=ibwiki&cmd=article&id=2
It's six pages of guidebooks and needs to be updated.
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oldfrog
Social climber
Bordeaux France
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Apr 28, 2010 - 12:29pm PT
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I bought a copy of the Beckey/Bjornstad "Guide to Leavenworth rock-climbing areas" in 1968 or early 69 in Seattle. It has the Snow Creek Wall picture on the cover page.
Used it a lot, still have it with me, but (unfortunately) only now for remembering old days and friends (see picture of Niels Andersen who later died with Warren Blesser while climbing the North Face of the Matterhorn).
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Apr 28, 2010 - 12:34pm PT
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Oldfrog,
I totally forgot about Niels and Warren.
Liked 'em both but I thought that was an odd pairing, not that there is anything wrong with odd pairings.
a bittersweet thanks,
Reilly
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 30, 2010 - 02:55pm PT
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Time for the second installment covering the Snow Creek Wall.
By the ice in my toilet, the SCW may still be a bit wet for the upcoming event! Anyone been up there lately?
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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May 30, 2010 - 02:59pm PT
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Steve, are you and Mimi going to the "upcoming event"? It would be nice to see you two again.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 30, 2010 - 03:04pm PT
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We are planning on it! Can't let Perry go thirsty!!!
What have the voices been saying about a Foil Hat Party, lately?!? LOL
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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May 30, 2010 - 03:06pm PT
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Yeah, since he has to cross the border, he might need something to smoke also.
Edit--The voices started speaking a foreign language. I'm trying to learn Farsi.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 30, 2010 - 07:11pm PT
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Unfortunately, I have always found Becky's guides confusing to the point of being almost useless. Some descriptions are great but others have led me astray.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 30, 2010 - 08:15pm PT
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Jim,
It is called 'creative license'. Others might call it a 'license to kill'.
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semievolved
Trad climber
pojoaque, nm
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Jul 11, 2012 - 10:28am PT
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hi, just stumbled into this site. i have one of these guidebooks that i have no use for any more but hate to throw away. if anybody would like it, i can mail it to them, please contact me: dharry@q.com
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 11, 2012 - 10:30am PT
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Interesting to see all of those classics on Castle Rock that were originally aid.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jul 11, 2012 - 10:36am PT
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Yeah, like there are about three hard moves on Rainshadow and they are all
next to an A1 crack so where was the A4? And I don't remember a bolt on it.
But that doesn't mean anything. Don't think I'm dissing Bjornstad's judgement
of hard aid, mind you.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 11, 2012 - 10:39am PT
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Reilly, an interesting thing about the rating system- aid grades were softer than they are today while free grades were definetly stiffer.
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semievolved
Trad climber
pojoaque, nm
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Jul 11, 2012 - 11:59am PT
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hi, i just wanted to update this and tell you all that i got a lot of replies for the guidebook and am planning on sending it to the first responder. take care, dave
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 17, 2014 - 06:08pm PT
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Bump in memory of Eric Bjornstad and all of his fabulous guidebook work.
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