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Messages 1 - 246 of total 246 in this topic |
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 1, 2010 - 04:15pm PT
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In your opinion what are some of the hairiest, skinniest spires ever to be ascended? Here is a picture out of the guidebook of pinpoint pinnicle in the needles. This is way skinnier the the next closer spire that I have done which is Sandberg Peak put up by Robbins in '64. That thing is like an upside down club with a long bent shaft and about 100ft tall. Sorry no pictures yet but I will keep looking.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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though the pic doesn't show it, the left leg of this arch is made of highly questionable deteriorating material and whole thing is significantly skinnier than it looks in this photo.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Dang Munge- i've wondered about that stuff up there, whether it could clean up for bolted climbs or not. There sure is a lot of it.
Ever try that black cap peak, I think that's what it's called. You can see it through the trees from the highway west of Kennedy Meadow sort of near the rest area with the good cracks.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2010 - 04:32pm PT
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Now thats what I am talking about. The ones I have done like ancient art or Sandberg Peak are mere trade routes I am sure compared to what is out there. Things like the Totem Pole(AZ?) or even the Cobra that look like they sould not still be standing seem bad ass.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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The rock in the Needles is too good to get the precarious label, you have to go to sandstone for that.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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The Lightbulb in the Swell felt like it was moving when two of us were on it...yikes...
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rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
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not climbed, but it will take the trophy once climbed. Just west of Wapiti,WY (up river from Cody).
foul crumbling volcanic schmutz.
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Mees
climber
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There are many of those on the North Fork of the shoshone, more death towers than you can shake a stick at in all directions. A lot of good ones below Jim Mountain facing the road.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2010 - 06:02pm PT
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Here is some more good ones around Cody, but i am not sure they have been climbed. Even good rock if it is tall and skinny enough would be precarious, didn't the Totem Pole in Tazmania just fall down.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Well, Trigger Finger at Peshastin did fall down!
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rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
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and I forgot about the smaller tower above the main one. On NF land- I have slid up to the base of this one.
I'll go, who is up for adventure? (jeremy maybe?)
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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kobus managed to get pro in on tombstone, 5.8
now the south tower of mt fee, there's a dungheap.
or Perkins Pillar. Fred and Ivan climb it in 2003 and the whole thing falls over in 2005!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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I don't know about most precarious, but I always liked Turkey Monster!
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Ben Harland
Social climber
Baltimore, MD
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The Gendarme was pretty precarious.
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MisterE
Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
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Second on the Turkey monster in the Menagerie.
That thing is half as large? One third? in circumference at the base than it is at the biggest point...somewhere higher.
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H
Mountain climber
there and back again
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Ancient Art for sure. Sorry no pics.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2010 - 10:15pm PT
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Thirds on turkey monster that looks like a constipated anorexic version of Sandberg Peak. Has it been climbed?
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Didn't Greg Lowe climb a 45' high rock that fell over the next day?
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Hi Tami:
Do any of the Canadians have a shot of Tombstone tower - that tottering tower of dung inbetween Ledge & Ledgelette ? IIRC it's a no-pro 80' 5.9 death climb done by - who else - Dick Culbert ....around 1968.
Tomstone is not choss: it's actually pretty solid. FA was in 1958 by Culbert, John Owen, and Elfrida Pigou (a very strong part), by the overhanging S ridge (difficult shoulder stand or aid). Arnold Shives, Frand deBruyn and I repeated that route in early 1961, and I don't think it's been done since.
Bob Woodsworth (my brother), Peter Thompson, and I climbed it by the north edge, now the standard route. This is one lead ~00 feet with the hardest stuff (5.9 according to Kobas) at the top, with no or dubious pro. I think the route has been done a couple of times since.
Bob was one of the best of the young Vancouver free climbers in those days (before Smaill et al), certainly one of the boldest. The year after, Bob, with Peter Thompson and Mike Wisnicki did the first ascent of the main tower of Mt. Fee, mentioned by MH above. This was, according to Peter and Bob, highly terrifying. The peak had been attempted several times before by the likes of Dick Culbert and Jim Baldwin, with no luck.
Fee is the core of a young, eroded volcano. It won't be around for long. As Dick Culbert rhymed:
Why wait? Extrapolate!
Fee is scree to be
Glenn
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2010 - 10:36pm PT
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Picture of a picture. I knew I would find a use for that guidebook. It is a little top heavy and looking a little um...flacid.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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The Pillar by Falkland Lake in central B.C. Poorly consolidated gravel with a huge capstone held on by squat. FA 1962 by Dick Culbert (who else) and me. Frightening. I have a photo somewhere. Second ascent about 1966 by George "Gimicks" Headley a couple of years later. I think it's fallen apart now... I should go up and have a look.
Glenn
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Trigger Finger in Peshastin Pinnacles. It fell over the day after we climbed it. We had 10 guys hanging off the 2 bolts on its summit swinging around. It was 1978 and we were young and stupid.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Andy, that mud King Pin looks just about as sketchy as it can get.
JL
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Hi gf: Culbert, Bob, and I weren't on Pyroclastic. I might have pics from an attempt on the Vulcan's Thumb, though. Vulcan's Thumb: now that's REAL choss.
Glenn
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Pryoclastic's first ascent was in May 1971, by Ross Wyborn, Fred Douglas and Roger Chicoine. With a valiant assist by Ross' dog Buck.
There was a true winter ascent by Bob Milward, P. O'Reilly, Peter Rowat and Greg Shannan in 1982.
Like the Rockies, probably the best time of year for such climbs is in March/April, during cool clear weather.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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mike,
Yes, Turkey Monster has been climbed many times.
I have climbed a couple things up there, but not that.
It's supposed to have a good 10a route on it!
Some of the rock up there is actually a lot better than it looks.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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And here are photos of Tombstone Tower, shamelessly taken from A Climber's Guide to the Coastal Ranges of British Columbia, 1965. Photos probably taken on the ascents Tricouni refers to.
The tower is on the south side of Ledge Mountain, which is about 10 km southeast of Squamish, and part of the Sky Pilot/Habrich group, which are visible from Squamish and the Chief.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Minor correcton: the left photo was taken by Monty Lasserre. It's from the gap between the Ledgelette and Ledge that Tami mentioned. North edge route faces camera.
The right hand photo was taken on the 2nd (and last recorded) ascent of the south ridge, 1961. A very young Arnold Shives dangles on parachute-cord slings beneath the overhang. We had trouble with this overhang, our soft iron pitons, mostly the old "verticals," didn't take too well. All 3 of us had a go at it before Frank deBruyn, age 16, finally finished it off.
Tami, on that nauseating trip, didn't you continue up Ledge from the gap above Tombstone?
Glenn
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wbw
climber
'cross the great divide
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The spires upthread in Cody would certainly be precarious as the rock quality around there is crap!
While I wouldn't argue that AZ's Totem Pole is necessarily the most precarious, when I climbed it back in '87, I remember being shocked at looking into a horizontal crack that splits the formation, and seeing sky on the other side. This crack is roughly 2/3 of the way up a spire that is around 400+ feet tall. I remember that the tower is perhaps 15 ft. in diameter at that place, so I figured out that the Totem Pole is actually two distinct pieces of rock, one stacked on top of another. Yikes!
Bjornstad called it the skinniest, tallest spire in the world in his original guidebook, even though he did not reveal specific information about the tower due to its location on the Navajo Reservation.
If the Totem Pole were not composed of some of the finest quality Wingate, that bad boy would surely have tumbled by now.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Tombstone Tower looks precarious because of its cigar-like profile. This appearance might also be enhanced if the observer had been smoking something, but not a cigar.... I climbed the north edge in the mid 60s with a couple of lady friends, Sheila and Mave, and would give it a 5.6 max, with bomber rock and lots of gear where needed. Sheila was a complete novice, and she cruised it. Mave on the other hand was the best female climber in the province for years, until the arrival of.....drum roll please......wait for it.......you guessed it.......Tami Knight. None of us had brought a pencil, so we signed the summit register by pricking our names in the paper with a pin, or something similar. Unfortunately none of us had brought a watch either, but that's another story. There is an old adage which says that a route devolves from "The hardest climb in the range" to "An easy day for a lady". This route appears to be morphing in the opposite direction!
We took a look at the Falkland Lake Pillar in the early 70s, and it was pretty scarey. Definitely a contender for a podium finish in this contest. "We came, we shuddered, we left", as some Roman guy once said. I have photos of both these pillars, but have lost the programme which enables me to reduce the pixels enough to post them on ST.
Another area which has not been mentiond yet is the 'Touch and Go Towers', another Culbert destination, and another Culbert name. Who would have guessed it? I have never been there, nor do I plan to go. The name is enough to freeze the blood of any mere mortal, or anyone with a drop of common sense. It would appear that Utah and BC have a lock on all the crappy rock in North America. Is there ANY good rock in BC? Yes, of course, there's that big cliff near Squamish, or Whistler or somewhere. Or is that down in Washington?
SECRET TIP OF THE DAY
Upthread, about post #13 by Malemute, is a shot of a small tower in the Vowells. Behind the tower, in the immediate background is a line of smallish rock peaks. These peaks are collectively called 'Climbing Ridge', and only the summit on the far right, the north peak, has been climbed. The several prominent buttresses are also unclimbed [obviously], and are larger than they appear, as this photo was taken from approx 8km or 5 miles away. So if you're interested in first ascents and new routes, check it out. The trick will be in the approach.... Good luck, it will come in handy. Cheers, H.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Tombstone Tower looks precarious because of its cigar-like profile. This appearance might also be enhanced if the observer had been smoking something, but not a cigar.... I climbed the north edge in the mid 60s with a couple of lady friends, Sheila and Mave, and would give it a 5.6 max, with bomber rock and lots of gear where needed.
5.6? If you say so... the 5.9 call came from Kobas, who did it some years later. I agree that the rock is pretty darn good, but Bob did have trouble with pro. Rock is pretty good in the whole Sky Pilot area; a lot of people don't like it, though, becuase it's not Habrich. Such is life and geology.
I've been to the Touch-and-Go Towers many times, most recently 5 or 6 years ago. I've got some stories on those things. Later. Rock is choss.
Best.. Glenn
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Thanks, Glenn - proof that our towers are rottener and scarier than the ones in Utah, even if they're a bit harder to find. And a photo of you, maybe for the "Who the Hell are All You People" thread - though a bit dated. :-) I wonder if the thing is still there?
Touch and Go Tower stories would also be welcome - all the climbers at Squamish every sunny day, not imagining the exciting challenges just across the river. Although people have been doing stuff on the slabs and faces to the north, on the west side of the river.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Wow, that's some world-class choss for sure!
Good thing that thing has a sombrero to keep the
rain off! It should be called The Wicked Witch of the East.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Hi Glenn
Maybe all the cracks fell off before Kobas got there! The Pillar is way more repulsive than I remembered. Definitely top three. Congrats on a hideous ascent! Or is that heinous? You both had balls of steel for that one. Cheers H.
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p-owed
Social climber
Ramona ca
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Do they believe it?
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cintune
climber
the Moon and Antarctica
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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nice +½π pic, p-owed...
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brett
climber
oregon
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There was one of the horsemen at Smith. I remember thinking anyone who climbed it didn't have too much regard for the future. It's gone.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Childe Roland to the dark tower came....
The Siege Perilous...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 16, 2010 - 06:21pm PT
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The Bump Less Perilous!!!
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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May 16, 2010 - 09:39pm PT
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The gendarm was precarious enough that it fell down.. The top of Aincent Art is kind of short but the way it wiggles up there certainly makes it feel somwhat precarious...
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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May 16, 2010 - 10:45pm PT
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Can't speak to the skinniest out there, and certainly NOT the most precarious or hairiset. But my personal demon and personal hairiest, The Salathe Highway on The Old Witch pinnacle just saw a 2nd ascent, literally, yesterday. I asked the leader, who'd just returned from Yosemite, how hard he thought it was and he said something like it was easy on the Yosemite scale but at least a 7 (of 10) on the testicular shrinkage scale. Once enough folks do it and the knobs stop popping off or someone sticks a bolt or 2 in her: that will ease to about a 2 or 3 we both agreed.
Some pics. 1st is the profile that got her the name. The route, the first up her started from the notch and can be better seen on the distance pic taken of the other side. Essentially starting up the chimney then the left profile.
Nearing the top
On top leaving a rap sling on her hair bun. BTW, the little pinnacle isn't blowing the big one in this picture, that's a needless #5 big bro, so get yer mind our of the gutter.
This picture was taken from @ 200 feet off the deck. The rap point is over that overhang there.
Distance view with the top marked.
That's all I got. That and a personal shout out to my man Fish™. Big Big thanks to the Mussmaster himself. I ordered some 9/16" supertape from Fish Products and told him the story of my fixation (ie, dreaming of a solo, ground up, no bolts and hammerless ascent of a virgin pinnacle -but it wasn't this one as it turned out). I was later to be very grateful that my local boyz were out of that material, cause look at what Fish sewed up and sent me with the Supertape order too for no charge!! Fish Frikkan rules™!
Russ sent me like 6 of these sewn tie-offs. 3 small 3 large. The large worked, I didn't have the sac to use the small for pro on small knobs. I dubbed them Fish™ Magic Tie-offs™ ™ ™, and they are really sweet, as they stay cinched up much better, unlike just cinching a full length runner!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2011 - 11:37pm PT
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Bump for some crazy mo-fo's climbing scary spires!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2011 - 11:57pm PT
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I wonder if there are any rock spires unstable enough to sway in the wind. The leaning column on Devils Tower's Durrance route moves several inches by just standing on it.
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Bobert
Trad climber
boulder, Colorado
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In the early sixties, Layton Kor talked me into a climbing trip to Glenwood Canyon. He said it was just like the Dolomites. (Neither of us had been to the Dolomites but were intrigued with them). We did a number of climbs, each one with it's unique near-death experience.
Layton had spotted this very large flake with a pinnacle-like summit stuck onto one of the walls. He thought it looked challenging.
On the climb, I was belaying from a little ledge when I looked up and saw a large rock heading right for me. I instinctively rolled off the ledge and ended up hanging from my belay anchor. To my horror I saw the rock had cut both of our double-ropes completely in two. Luckily on the other side of the anchor. I told Kor he was off belay for a minute. Then he went merrily on his way.
When we sat on the summit and looked down, I remarked "Wouldn't it be ironic if this thing just toppled over?"
We looked at each other for a few seconds, then Kor started frantically drilling a rap bolt.
Every time I drive through the canyon I look up to see if the pinnacle is still there. So far it is.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Hank, that looks like a smokestack tower near Salida, Co.
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Sparky
Trad climber
vagabon movin on
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Petite Grepon in RMNP is fun to get the first winter ascent
http://www.math.usu.edu/~bryanb/photos/climbing/trad/trad5.html
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Hank, that looks like a smokestack tower near Salida, Co.
Front Range Freaks - see it! Cool video.
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Haggis
Trad climber
Scotland
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nah - what you need is a spire that requires a small rubber boat or a swim to get to the base.
its also an arch - very cool
Castle Yesnaby - Orkney - bonnie Scotland
not my image
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anees
climber
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I wonder if there are any rock spires unstable enough to sway in the wind.
My experience climbing Honeymoon Chimney on the Priest in Castle Valley UT leads me to say "Yes!" I climbed it on a day the wind was absolutely howling. Stemming up between the Priest and the Nuns (I think it's the Nuns?), trying to reach the 3rd pitch bolt ladder, it seemed very clear that one or both of the towers was swaying back and forth. There might have been some vertigo involved as well (it's EXPOSED), but it's a really wide stem and I could feel the distance between the two towers changing rhythmically, closer and farther, as they moved. Yikes!
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nutjob
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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There's a tower on Hawkman's Escape where Ramblin' Rose cuts left, thatI swear was shifting every time the deep bass moan of the wind came through. I was chimneying up between the pillar and the main wall, and felt it rock out a little and I abandoned that technique.
The second time we tried Hawkman's, I stayed away from that scary thing as much as I could:
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2011 - 02:19pm PT
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Skinny spire bump
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jack herer
Sport climber
Veneta, Oregon
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semi precarious
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jack herer
Sport climber
Veneta, Oregon
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next door to the turkey monster
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2011 - 03:12pm PT
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I think the spire in my post above, Freak's Fright, can't be more than 8-9 feet in diameter but around 90 feet tall, it is somewhat forshortened in this picture. I think a one to ten ratio will quallify a lot of spires in this catagory or at least start to make you think of the toppling factor at the bottom.
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johnboy
Trad climber
Can't get here from there
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Up by "The Window". I lassoed the top from the spire to the left so I'd have a tope rope getting up it.
I'll have to look for a couple of pics of some crumbling limestone towers up by Blackfox I got to the top of.
Edit. My wife took the pic a couple years ago, I didn't bag it till this spring.
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jack herer
Sport climber
Veneta, Oregon
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I finally go to have a pro photographer tag along on The Eagles Claw!!!!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Here's the most precarious made of rotten wood.
OK, it's really pretty solid.
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Chillax
Trad climber
Wexford
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This one off the west of Ireland is the victim of constant rumours that its fallen over. Still hanging in there though.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2012 - 04:26pm PT
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Anyone climbed some skinny ones lately?
Johnboy, I climbed a couple of spires by the other free campground by mystic a few years back.
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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May 17, 2012 - 04:42pm PT
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This is not the most precarious spire:
But it's a fun diversion on the way down from Via Aqua or anywhere near the top of Upper Yosemite Falls.
Homemade Da Brim bump.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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May 17, 2012 - 04:52pm PT
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Still patiently waiting for an update on Agassiz Column in the Valley.
I don't know about the peethure Reeotch provided of the "former" pinnacle in the sea, but it bears a remarkable resemblance to the base of the Gasmanian Totem Pole.
Pate, I got it on my wall and it's the Barbie of Seastackage.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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May 17, 2012 - 04:56pm PT
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Well, how many old-timers climbed the late, lamented, Sentinel Spire? A lot of work for a 5.5, but I never expected its demise quite so soon.
John
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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May 17, 2012 - 04:59pm PT
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@Tom Woods
"Dang Munge- i've wondered about that stuff up there, whether it could clean up for bolted climbs or not. There sure is a lot of it."
Tom,
There is all kinds of volcanic in that region. Some good tight matrix. Some really sharp. Some is bolted. Most hasn't been done. Fear of loose rock keeps the intelligent away.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 17, 2012 - 05:41pm PT
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That stuff around Caineville is NOT solid, ya big grinnin' sandbagger you!
YER GONNA DIE!!1!!
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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May 17, 2012 - 07:11pm PT
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Not a great pic. This is in the Apocalypse Needles near The Dalles Oregon. Only one recorded ascent. Stacked basalt blocks.
Looks really scary.
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jack herer
Big Wall climber
Veneta, Oregon
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May 17, 2012 - 11:35pm PT
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Horse C*#k Rock!
And from above...
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jack herer
Big Wall climber
Veneta, Oregon
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May 17, 2012 - 11:37pm PT
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jack herer
Big Wall climber
Veneta, Oregon
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May 17, 2012 - 11:37pm PT
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The Turkey Monster from a different angle.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2012 - 11:41pm PT
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Dee ee that thing looks pretty cool where is it. Can't get enough pictures of the Turkey Monster that thing looks seriously top heavy with a rotten base. That would be a great shot with someone standing on top of it.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 17, 2012 - 11:51pm PT
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This one will topple some day;...Chinle Spire, Az.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 17, 2012 - 11:53pm PT
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Mike M....here is Dee Eee on that Hanksville spire Long Dong Silver, in Utah........it was a funky one..Dee Eee did a masterful job on the led;.......we walked all around the spire a number of times until we finally figured out the line that had been climbed....
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 17, 2012 - 11:56pm PT
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Here's a cool one that Cam Burns snagged;.....he scored...
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 17, 2012 - 11:57pm PT
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A Roadside favorite..
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 17, 2012 - 11:58pm PT
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Another awesome spire;....Stein's Pillar, Or.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 17, 2012 - 11:58pm PT
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Chinle again..
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 12:00am PT
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The Pickle
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 12:00am PT
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One of the best summits on the planet..
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 12:01am PT
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The Bride
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 12:02am PT
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Lucky Strike Spire
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 12:02am PT
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Spider Rock
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 12:04am PT
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The Phallus
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 12:04am PT
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Venus
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 12:05am PT
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Here it is..
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 12:06am PT
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King on his Throne
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 12:08am PT
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this one is skinny;....6-10' thick for the last pitch...
Cleo
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 12:11am PT
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Monster from Washer Woman
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 12:11am PT
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Three sisters..
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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May 18, 2012 - 12:24am PT
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OK you win Todd! Holy SH#T
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jack herer
Big Wall climber
Veneta, Oregon
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May 18, 2012 - 12:47am PT
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Todd,
Any more pics of that Hanksville spire? Looks cool, whats the story behind it?
Cheers!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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May 18, 2012 - 12:54am PT
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Todd, how many desert spires have you summitted?
Gotta be a record of some sort.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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May 18, 2012 - 12:55am PT
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Hey, Jack & Plaid....Forget that Gordon guy.
I heard he's Toast.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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May 18, 2012 - 01:02am PT
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Beautiful Todd!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2012 - 01:05am PT
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Great pictures Todd. Anyone been on a spire that actually tipped over on the ascent? The leaning colomn on Devils Tower though actually not a spire any more now that it is leaning against the surrounding wall now moves signicantly. It is the easiest route to the top and will fall off some day. Here is a picture of my son stemming up it earlier this year.It is the column on his right.
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jack herer
Big Wall climber
Veneta, Oregon
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May 18, 2012 - 01:19am PT
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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May 18, 2012 - 01:45am PT
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Fritz,
"What is it about choss?"
See Rotten Monolith in the Thread just mentioned, "What is it..."
It's glued, dude.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 02:15am PT
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Vanishing Angel, Moab..
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 02:16am PT
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Something down Kain Springs Rd. in Moab.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 02:17am PT
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the Pope..
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 02:18am PT
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Standing Rock
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 02:22am PT
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Get a car jack and knock this one over...
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 02:23am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 02:23am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 02:25am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 02:27am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 02:30am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 02:31am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 02:33am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 02:34am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 02:34am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 02:35am PT
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Here's one in your neighborhood, Mike.......totem pole in So. Dak.
and one at Rushmore..
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 02:36am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 02:38am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 02:39am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 02:39am PT
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Dark Angel
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 02:41am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 02:41am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 02:42am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 02:42am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 02:43am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 02:44am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 02:45am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 02:47am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 02:48am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 02:49am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 02:49am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 02:50am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 02:52am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 02:53am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 02:55am PT
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Check out the wee spire on the right;..the Tuk-toolong;.....it has 2 routes on it...
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 09:35am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 09:39am PT
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Titan
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 09:40am PT
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The Sore Thumb
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 09:40am PT
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Take your pick...
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 09:41am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 09:42am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 09:43am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 18, 2012 - 09:49am PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2012 - 09:50am PT
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Todd Totem Pole is my cover picture. What a great spire. Here is one my son did earlier this year on the Colorado River. It is a little short but... We called it the mini Cobra
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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May 18, 2012 - 10:18am PT
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Bryceman, for the Gendarme, check yahoo images, search the gendarme seneca rocks. Most edifying, even though the edifice in question is no longer standing.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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May 18, 2012 - 10:39am PT
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TODD! YOU REALLY WIN!!!!! AHHHHHHHH!!! YOU'RE KILLING ME! I CAN'T BREATH. GET OFF.
No seriously, how many years of photos is that? I have now seen so many spires now, that I am sick................... with envy.
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Pcutler
climber
Iowa
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May 18, 2012 - 12:10pm PT
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certainly not the most precarious but the black hills in SD is loaded with awesome spires
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 19, 2012 - 12:31am PT
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Bill Willians Spire
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 19, 2012 - 12:32am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 19, 2012 - 12:40am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 19, 2012 - 12:41am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 19, 2012 - 12:54am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 19, 2012 - 12:58am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 19, 2012 - 09:52am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 19, 2012 - 10:06am PT
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 19, 2012 - 10:42am PT
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There are some petroglyphs, just visible, high on a spire in Utah so precarious no climbers dare breathe heavily next to it. I have no photos because I was concerned the shutter vibration would topple it. The Anasazi also need to be credited with America's first 5.10's.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 20, 2012 - 10:50pm PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 20, 2012 - 10:53pm PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 20, 2012 - 10:55pm PT
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Goliath
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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May 20, 2012 - 10:57pm PT
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So full of sh#t. In the way high up in the Castle Cliffs, beyond Tricky Dick and Bush W Ledge and Bill's Boner, there WAAS a large pinnacle, but it was falling apart so fast it was gone by the time I could set up a belay. I was standing on a pile of sand! Talking shop about choss.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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May 20, 2012 - 11:01pm PT
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Todd totally wins this one.
True style is to stand on the summit with one foot held high.
My balance isn't that good any more.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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May 21, 2012 - 01:02am PT
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Mr. Gordon (and friends) seems to be attracted to those units.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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May 21, 2012 - 01:38am PT
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"Yea, though I walk through the phalli of the shadow of death...", etc:
yet I am the most prolific, viagraphic, driven photographer of fragile pointy things in the valley.
Mr. Choad's Wild Ride.
Bravura display. Every right to be cocky, Todd.
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fsck
climber
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May 21, 2012 - 02:29am PT
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2013 - 10:40pm PT
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Anyone read about the Ice stalagmite called the Spruce Cone in Wrangle Saint Elias NP that apperently grows to 250ft at times in the newest issue of climbing. It apperently never has conected. It also apperently has been climbed when it was one pitch but not when it was around 80m. That may be the most precarious spire never climbed.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Finally, a thread I can get behind, er on top of...
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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I missed this first time around... nice pics. Fsck, pretty amazing looking! Jaybro, don't you have an interesting spire pic from recently?
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turd
climber
|
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Cool thread. I was happy to see Montezuma Tower in there.
Since when has the leaning column started moving?!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2013 - 12:18am PT
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Been moving for a few years now. I have even heard the the NP is talking about bolting it to the wall.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Jan 10, 2013 - 12:21am PT
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you people make me sick
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 10, 2013 - 12:34am PT
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Is that Elvis hammer Fsck I got to climb it with Cho and Fluoride and this fall. There was a breeze and I was sure I could feel it moving. Felt like tremors. I was glad to rap off!
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Woody the Beaver
Trad climber
Soldier, Idaho
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Jan 10, 2013 - 12:16pm PT
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Well, this is probably kind of feeble for this thread, but this is the best we've got here in our part of the Idaho desert. This is a 50' or 60' beauty called The Funnybone. Friable tuff or rhyolite or something. A creepy steepie.
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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Jan 10, 2013 - 12:55pm PT
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My good friend, John Ewbank bagged the 1st ascent of the Totem Pole, in Tasmania. I climbed with John last year in New Hampshire.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2013 - 07:49pm PT
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I heard that thing fell into the ocean steve
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jan 10, 2013 - 07:59pm PT
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I think that thing at Seneca qualifies ...
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Fossil climber
Trad climber
Atlin, B. C.
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Jan 11, 2013 - 01:56pm PT
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Climbed an obscure and precarious sea stack north of Bodega Bay back about 1957 with a college bio prof named Clark Nattkemper. Great guy. The top ten feet was just dirt. No rappel point. We tied the ropes together and rappelled off opposite sides, simultaneously.
Went back a few years later to look at it. It was gone.
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Snowmassguy
Trad climber
Calirado
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Jan 22, 2013 - 11:06am PT
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Not all that precarious but cool none the less
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2013 - 10:06pm PT
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Pin Point Pinnacle. Pretty skinny and only 5.6,m but with no anchor and a rather bulbous summit with no groove for a needles style rappel you apparently wrap the rope around the top a couple of times in the middle and then bring the two strands together to rap. You then unwind the rope by walking around it a couple of times. Scary.
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whitemeat
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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I dont know about precarious but iv baged 3 pretty cool ones!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 2, 2013 - 10:45pm PT
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Possibly the largest unclimbed spire in the Black Hills?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2014 - 01:34pm PT
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Anybody climbed some good ones lately?
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alxj
Trad climber
Calgary, AB
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This one gets climbed a couple times of year for those in and around Thunder Bay, Ontario.
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Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Menlo Park
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Arrowhead Arete route...
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2014 - 10:59pm PT
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Awesome crusher
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Oregon
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The Turkey monster is sketchy. stein's pillar is also precarious.
( did it a few years ago and it still had Roper's entry in the register)
But if your pillar hasn't fallen down since you did it, you got nothin'.
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speelyei
Trad climber
Mohave County Arizona
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The Poplar at Smith. From some angles, it looks like it's gonna fall over imminently. I got vertigo on top, couldn't wait to get down.
The Steeple in the Ochocos, not far from Stein's. I got about 1/2, maybe 2/3, broke off a piece the size of a cinder block, and my nerves were shot. My buddy declined to complete the lead. No summit.
Unclimbed, Golden Valley, AZ
Thumb Butte, Bullhead City, AZ
Others have climbed this. I'll be needing a partner.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Mike M. You and Jack should get after that unclimbed spire:)
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2014 - 11:15am PT
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Might have to, but it looks to be guitar chossy and currently buried in 3 feet of snow.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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what is guitar chossy? never heard of that? I do understand "it's a heap" and such but never heard of guitar chossy? you never know for sure though untill you lay hands on it....
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2014 - 09:02pm PT
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Smart phone aint so smart. But I do like guitar chossy. Meant super chossy. Looked at it this morning and it is definitely guitar chossy.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Is that a grunge choss or a heavy metal choss?
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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@mike m- That wind yer ropes around the top to get off of the Pin Point sounds awful! I've always down-climbed it. Probably not much better!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2014 - 09:12am PT
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Stolen from a Facebook friend. I think it is by Billings.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2014 - 12:24pm PT
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Did I hear the Cobra fell over?
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Aug 15, 2014 - 05:01pm PT
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Yes Cobra fell over, there were threads with photos here. Most precarious spire climbed may have been by the last person to tick the cobra. I wonder what the shortest time is between an ascent of a spire and it falling down? Days, hours?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2014 - 05:46pm PT
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Who got the last ascent?
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Aug 15, 2014 - 08:08pm PT
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Tony barns guided the Gendarm the day before it fell. Our Climb The Cleaver was not a spire but the roof fell either the night or next day after we did the 2nd ascent...... before after
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SethKane
Ice climber
Bozeman, MT
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mega choss pile. True summit was to small (or maybe our balls were) to stand on.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
|
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... the roof fell either the night or next day after we did the 2nd ascent. Probably cuz of that bolt right next to the perfectly place-able crack.
The feature had to commit hari kari, or be eternally insulted by his peers.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2015 - 07:43am PT
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Anyone done some skinny ones lately?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2015 - 08:30am PT
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I heard plad used something like 32 peckers on some NW scarefest.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Aug 19, 2015 - 06:54pm PT
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The Gendarme at Seneca Rocks. . . (is no more). . .
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crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
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Aug 19, 2015 - 08:16pm PT
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Cayesh qualifies.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2016 - 09:16am PT
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Saw off of Facebook that the left ear of the Rabbit Ears Spire has fallen off.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Sep 22, 2016 - 11:03am PT
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Possibly not the most precarious spire ever climbed, but for sure it's got the look...
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Sep 22, 2016 - 11:16am PT
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^^^Classic.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2016 - 01:28pm PT
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does anyone know about this one on the ridge between McHenrys and Chiefs Head in RNMP. Hard to see in the picture but it is fairly crooked.
Marlow that looks pretty precarious with bonus points for exposure factor.
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Sep 22, 2016 - 01:42pm PT
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Rebuffat was a nervy guy to perch upon that needle. Makes me queasy to imagine it.
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Dick Danger
Trad climber
Lakewood, Colorado
|
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Sep 22, 2016 - 02:10pm PT
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+1 for Ancient Art, Fisher Towers.
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BigB
Trad climber
Red Rock
|
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Sep 22, 2016 - 02:14pm PT
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cool pic^^^
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Sep 22, 2016 - 02:27pm PT
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The Gendarme was pretty precarious.
We had a tradition to do it first day each season. It only took a few minutes.
And every time, I walked around it and said " this thing is gonna fall".
The Turkey monster and Stein's pillar are pretty precarious.
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Wise Acres
|
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Sep 24, 2016 - 10:30am PT
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Sep 25, 2016 - 05:13am PT
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This thing looked pretty sketch
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LongAgo
Trad climber
|
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Sep 25, 2016 - 03:01pm PT
|
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Wise Acres
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Sep 25, 2016 - 03:09pm PT
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Tom that looks like a top!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 25, 2016 - 06:24pm PT
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Tradman. I've done that one. Great Robbins route on the other side.
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Gilroy
Social climber
Bolderado
|
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Sep 25, 2016 - 08:02pm PT
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Mine's bigger but not by much.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 4, 2016 - 11:35am PT
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That rabbit ear spire that is left looks fairly precarious judging from this photo I came across on the web by John Svenson. I saw some other pictures of this that did not convey the flag pole factor.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Climbed once
Fell over the next year
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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I feel like anything to have toppled in this lifetime makes the shortlist. The Cobra gets my vote. And those Swords of Damocles N of I-70 at Palisade, those things all.
Honorable mention:
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2016 - 04:10pm PT
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Nice one Adrian!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nice, cowboy!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2017 - 01:25pm PT
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http://www.supertopo.com/photos/37/0/491562_15043_XL.jpg
According to a thread on Paul's facebook page the top of this one fell off recently. Also he has loaded some great pictures on his ST page of spire ascents he felt were far scarier than this one. So take a look or if someone knows how to easily copy and paste here these climbs seem worthy and then some.
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Feb 28, 2017 - 01:41pm PT
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the top was on Damocles' Sword a week or two ago when I drove by.....
I don't do the FB but I trust that they know what they're looking at...
another one bites the dust, heh.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2017 - 01:53pm PT
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BC if you are on Paul's facebook page take a look. One of his friends lives close to the spire and said it fell off.
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hellroaring
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Feb 28, 2017 - 09:45pm PT
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Mike M - The Rabbit Ear Spire has fallen down. Last year if I remember right? That photo you posted makes the Taku Towers look good
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2018 - 01:59pm PT
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Was going to climb a very short mini-cobra-esque spire at a campsite above the willows in beef basin as we were going to set up camp. I just leaned on it and the whole thing started rocking. I just could stop thinking that I would tip it over and it would get filmed and I would be public media shamed. I left it as is but that thing is coming down soon. Hopefully not on an unsuspecting camper.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Apr 11, 2018 - 03:18pm PT
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Like this thread.
Was thinking of the Window Pain recently...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Apr 11, 2018 - 04:17pm PT
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