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| Messages 1 - 20 of total 20 in this topic |
Buju
Trad climber
the range of light
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 31, 2010 - 02:36pm PT
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My cousin just told me about this thing. He spends a lot of time up there and has seen Moby Dick from a distance and thinks it looks fun. He says it is big and granite. Anyone know anything about it?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 31, 2010 - 04:17pm PT
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There is a report on the first ascent of the wall in the Canadian Alpine Journal, volume 56 (1973), at page 14. It was climbed in August 1972 by Dave Jones, John Markel, and Robbins Wallace. It's also in the Selkirks South guidebook, by Dave, at page 296.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Mar 31, 2010 - 04:31pm PT
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I think there is a reason it is called the "Oh-No! Wall"
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MrSelkirk
Mountain climber
Golden, BC
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Hello boys and girls:
I'm quite puzzled as to why the west face of Moby Dick, Southern Selkirks, has not seen another ascent since our original adventure back in 1972. Now to do it in the spirit of the original ascent, it is only 5 days walk south of the Rogers Pass. In 1972 it required 5 days to make the first ascent of Oh No wall (after walking in) but with better climbing techniques and gear, should be possible to halve our time.
The rock is generally very sound. Some loose rock and pebbles on the lower ledges (and lower angle) but very little in the top half. In my estimation there is room for several high quality new routes on the face, notably to the south (right) of our original ascent.
In 1972 the glacier at the foot of the wall was easy to travel but with continued glacial recession, an approach to the base of the face could pose some challenges.
David P. Jones
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Buju
Trad climber
the range of light
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2010 - 08:25pm PT
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Lets get some shots and hear some stories! I may be planning a trip out there this summer...
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Gvickowski
Mountain climber
Longmeadow, Ma
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The excellent trip report of the FA is available here, in the google books scan of the 1973 American Alpine Journal. Click next page/previous page if it doesn't show up at first.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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David P. Jones
And just what are you doing in this idiots' village? You used to have more sense than that. Have you become as senile as the rest of us?
David Harris
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Timmc
climber
BC
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I concur with David and Greg that there is much potential in the area.
When I get home in a month I will try and scan some shots of Yes Please Spire and figure out how to post them.
There was something in Gripped on our holiday there but I don't remember what issue.
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Gvickowski
Mountain climber
a flatter spot than I'd like
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I'm afraid the most relevant photo I have is only marginally relevant- the spire is visible but the wall is not.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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It should confuse them that many of us are named Dave. I'll ask Dave W, Dave N, Dave V, and other Daves to help with diversionary tactics.
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bmacd
Trad climber
Beautiful, BC
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It's all fiction till someone posts a picture .... what is the vertical relief of the route in question ?
Greetings Davey Jones !
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Gvickowski
Mountain climber
a flatter spot than I'd like
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There's a picture on the first page of the AAJ link above(Clint Cummins's link, not mine).
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Dave, I'm wondering if your FA partner, John Markel is an old friend of mine. Does he have an older brother Bruce, they were both kick-ass alpine skiers, and he is also an accomplished artist?
If so, do you have any idea where he is now? We went to high school and were ski instructors at Loveland Ski Area together. Around that time (of your FA), he used to date a girl named Carol that lived behind me.
If it's the same one, he and Bruce had a very harrowing adventure on a winter ascent of S. Maroon Peak.
Scott Mossman
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Gvickowski
Mountain climber
Flagstaff
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Jan 21, 2011 - 11:12pm PT
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Bump for pics. Timmc did you find yours?
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jonclimb
Trad climber
Bloomingdale
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Oct 30, 2013 - 09:02am PT
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I believe Mr. Markel is still climbing.
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Oct 30, 2013 - 09:07am PT
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^^ Gunks?
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jonclimb
Trad climber
Bloomingdale
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Oct 30, 2013 - 10:58am PT
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Sure thing.
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Oct 30, 2013 - 11:16am PT
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I'd love to see pics of Moby Dick and the Battle range and all those remote areas in the Selkirks.
Canada's mountains are awesome!
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Timmc
climber
BC
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Oct 30, 2013 - 11:41am PT
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Tami: sorry I missed the bumps- I hope things got sorted with Lila- My Bad.
Gvickowski: nice shot of Yes Please Spire. Still have yet to open that pandora's box of countless slides. In Co working right now but hopefully this winter I can scan some and post.
I believe there was an attempt on Ohno Wall last year.
Greg, is that the article you were referring to or the one you wrote for Gripped? Both should be scanned and posted
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