Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 113 of total 113 in this topic |
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 26, 2010 - 02:52pm PT
|
The Last Gent Ampatheater. From left to right.
Way to the left you can see parts of Called on Accounts of Rain IV WI5+ Arora Direct 5+ and a bunch of other hard and mixed stuff. There is lots more good stuff left of that.
The promonant climb on the buttress just left of center is Stormy Monday III WI4+ Sand bag!
The Hanger over cave in the Middle is China Shop IV5+ when it touches down. The climb as pictured in hanger condition is Chop Shop and Machine Shop.
The long Skinny one just Right of center is Who's Who In Outer Space IV WI5
Then its The Last Gentleman IV WI5
Le Promanade IV WI5+
Then Reign of Terror, Bullwinkle etc.
Lots more good stuff to the right and all of it 30 min from the car :)
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2010 - 02:58pm PT
|
Myself on the last Gent 2008 Le PromenadeIV WI5+ is on the far right.
|
|
rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2010 - 05:02pm PT
|
Willoughby-
best place east of Denver/Billings
uh, what about Cody?
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2010 - 05:54pm PT
|
I don't know? that is why I put the question mark in the title. The cliff is about a mile long and sports about 36 multi pitch climbs most in the 4+ to 5+ range with a few 3's and 6's thrown in. Its reliable, Sunny and for the most part short approaches. 20 to 45 min. Avalance danger is a minimum and allmost never a real factor in closeing down any populer climbs.
Post up and prove me wrong or b etter yet post up your lake photos ;)
|
|
tradchick
Trad climber
Vermont
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2010 - 05:58pm PT
|
I agree with you Nick. I climbed with Will Mayo once and that was his exact quote, "the best ice in the lower 48". He should know.
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2010 - 06:03pm PT
|
Larry Gunning it on P2 of Glass Menagerie III WI5
Jan 2010
|
|
tradchick
Trad climber
Vermont
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2010 - 06:24pm PT
|
Nice pics and wish I had some to add to your thread. My sissy ass stays down on the Tablets.
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2010 - 10:09pm PT
|
Here is a good shot of China Shop.
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2010 - 10:14pm PT
|
Bob Brandt follows the rock traverse on The Last Gentleman. 2008
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2010 - 10:29pm PT
|
Nice photos, Nick.
It's a beautiful place to climb quality multipitch ice. I was fortunate to do a few FAs there in 1977-78 with my friends (until I broke my back trying to do an ice FA on Whitehorse in North Conway in January 1978; now retired from ice climbing!).
Al Rubin told us about Willoughby and encouraged us to check it out.
One of the factors which helped us do the FAs was that we had quite a large rack of MSR ice screws, which were vastly superior to the Chouinard screws made at that time. The MSRs could be placed with one hand, without a wrench, and they were full strength and fairly easy to remove as well.
I remember parking below Stormy Monday, packing our gear to attempt the FA. But a couple of our friends/rivals (Rainsford and Gustavo) showed up minutes later, jumped out of their car with their packs ready, and charged up the approach ahead of us! We tried to run after 'em, but realized we couldn't catch those guys! So John Imbrie and I went off to the left end of the cliff and made our first attempt on Called On Account of Rains (that's how it got its name).
|
|
HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2010 - 10:34pm PT
|
I have a good friend with a house on Willoughby. I guess maybe I should go there more often...
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2010 - 10:37pm PT
|
Wow! Cool stuff Clint. This is a shot of Matt cranking the 1st Pitch of Called in unusualy fat condition. This is an insanely long sustained pitch.
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2010 - 10:42pm PT
|
HighDesert
Ask your friend if he knows anything about Mt Wheeler. Pretty cool top secret 500ft granit dome with over 100rts about 15 min from the lake ;)
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2010 - 07:03am PT
|
Clint, that story is so funny! They ran up there and cut you off and you end up getting the much better known classic. Stormy does not get done all that much due to the sandbag factor and a bit obscure where Called is a huge classic and on most strong folks hit list.
Never even heard of MSR screws? We allways thought you guys were supermen for climbing that stuff with such crappy screws. I remember doing Renorm in the mid eightys and looking at Mindbender thinking it was super impossible. Did shaker heights back then as well and that was a super cool but scary day.
The new screws have completly changed the game far beyond anything I would ever have imagined back then.
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Mar 27, 2010 - 09:36am PT
|
Great climbing! But that New England damp cold...brrrrr!
|
|
slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
|
|
|
Mar 27, 2010 - 09:52am PT
|
Wow ! I haven't heard 'Rains mentioned in a while, a real ice legend. Like a lot of others, the stuff they did in the '70's was crazy.
|
|
Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
|
|
|
Mar 27, 2010 - 11:33am PT
|
Amazing place. Pretty high concentration of climbing.
Scoping...
Ahh...too warm!
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2010 - 04:17pm PT
|
Yea, the gent Ampatheater can turn into an oven when the sun is out. great spot for cold days.
Dave Powers cranking the 3rd pitch of Called. what an amazeing sustained climb.[photoid=151253]
|
|
Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
Mar 27, 2010 - 04:21pm PT
|
I can't speak to the ice climbing, but it sure does have a top-notch moniker.
|
|
Basilisk
Ice climber
New Hampshire
|
|
|
Mar 27, 2010 - 05:52pm PT
|
Dave is not human. For all the time I've spent in the NEK this winter, I never touched the ice.
I'll make up for it tomorrow with some early-season Wheeler action!
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2010 - 06:20pm PT
|
Sweet...
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2010 - 03:08pm PT
|
Starting up 20 below Zero Gully, WI4+
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2010 - 07:57am PT
|
Dave Powers near the top of Extensive Homology III WI5
Mark Synot once said that "there is more ice within 2 hrs of my house than in the whole state of colorado"
2hrs frm Jackson NH includes lake Willoughby so I have no doubt that he is correct.
|
|
Morgan
Trad climber
East Coast
|
|
|
Mar 29, 2010 - 09:00am PT
|
Guy Lacelle would agree. A while ago he ranked the top 100 ice climbs in the Canadian magazine GRIPPED. Called On Account of Rains was well up there on the list.
|
|
emac
climber
New Hampshire
|
|
|
Mar 29, 2010 - 09:10am PT
|
|
|
Tomcat
Trad climber
Chatham N.H.
|
|
|
Mar 29, 2010 - 10:11am PT
|
Heh,I have so few Willoughby pics...I'm either hanging on or changing my shorts all the time.
Here's Tradchick after I begged her to place a screw....
|
|
dustonian
climber
RRG
|
|
|
Mar 29, 2010 - 10:27am PT
|
Damn this place looks awesome
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2010 - 10:27am PT
|
You begged her for a what? ;) Oops, sorry. To many years working in restaruntes..
Nice shots everyone.
This is an overview from the parkinglot. You can't really see all the big stuff that is left of Stormy Monday. It does give you a nice feel for the place. The bit on the far right is the practice slabs. 300+ ft tall grade 3 to 4+ ;)
|
|
tradchick
Trad climber
Vermont
|
|
|
Mar 29, 2010 - 10:52am PT
|
Nice pics everyone!
Now that Tomcat and I have a house 20 minutes away, maybe I'll graduate from the Tablets (the practice slabs) to the big boy/girl climbs.
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2010 - 11:11am PT
|
Sweet, You have no excuses now..
Isa belaying. 20 below Zero Gully
|
|
divad
Trad climber
wmass
|
|
|
Mar 29, 2010 - 11:11am PT
|
it does give you a nice feel for the place
I'll second that...
|
|
Tomcat
Trad climber
Chatham N.H.
|
|
|
Mar 29, 2010 - 11:16am PT
|
Ha,I have a zillion excuses Nick !! LOL.
This is the throw away playground at Willoughby.They don't even name stuff over here.
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2010 - 11:31am PT
|
Ya, that's the Practice slabs where leaders routinely bomb their 2nds ;)
P 4 of the Gent. Many do it in 2 now with the longer ropes and stronger guns. Personaly I like the extra belays (rests;)both shots taken same climb. The 1st shot was overexposed so it looks all baked out when it was not. This was the first time I had lead the entire rout. Big day for me.
|
|
Edge
Trad climber
New Durham, NH
|
|
|
Mar 29, 2010 - 11:32am PT
|
I'll have to track down and scan in a bunch of old slides to post any pics of Willoughby.
Unfortunately I OD'd on vert ice after climbing there, but that was before the more recent mixed routes went up. I just didn't like the virtual repetition of moves on pure water ice, although I never had the stones to solo anything there either...
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2010 - 11:44am PT
|
Unfourtunatly I never got good enough to be bored with these climbs. Stll many I wish to do but have not been brave enough and strong enough.
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2010 - 01:24pm PT
|
Threadding off in the dark. An early season ritual at the Lake.
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2010 - 11:02am PT
|
Alden Pellet cranking the 3rd pitch of Le Promenade IV WI5+
|
|
CClarke
climber
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2010 - 11:21am PT
|
I think it is the best place in the lower 48 when it is in good form but that can change pretty rapidly.
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2010 - 11:26am PT
|
It's usually reliable from mid December through the 1st week of March.
|
|
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2010 - 12:28pm PT
|
Willoughby looks great, but that Yellowstone area has some good ones. I like this one in the Clark's Fork. With well over 600ft of ice.
|
|
adamiata
Ice climber
Candia, NH
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2010 - 12:31pm PT
|
Dying to do something at the Lake next season...
How does 20 Below Zero compare to something like Dracula?
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2010 - 12:41pm PT
|
Of course conditions mean everything in ice climbing but if you go all the way to the top of 20 below instead of the lower tree anchor on the left it's about like doing Dracula 4 times.
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2010 - 12:44pm PT
|
Mike, Whats the name of that climb?
|
|
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2010 - 01:11pm PT
|
Leaning Tree. There is so much from Cody to Bozeman that saying Willoughby is the best seems kind of strong. Willoghby deffinately seems to have a huge concentration of moderate to hard lines, but there is so much divesity on huge lonely mountains with very large flows that the Greater Yellowstone area could make the same claim. Manny of the bigger flows/pitches generally are given only one name even though many of them could have dozens of variations on a particular route/pitch so it kind of sounds like there is not that much ice out there when you look at the number of routes listed in the guide. Here is a picture of another good one from that area . I would like to think areas are just different not one better than the other. Sometimes a 3+ hour approach can be "fun" or what makes a climb more memorable. The vastness and aloneness that you feel in some of these places make the some of these climbs even that much more of a prize.
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2010 - 01:27pm PT
|
Mike, what was the name of the first climb you posted and where exactly is it? thanks, Nick
|
|
divad
Trad climber
wmass
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2010 - 01:40pm PT
|
geez, this looks like a pic up above.
Cody, I believe
|
|
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2010 - 02:21pm PT
|
Here are a few from just acroos the border in MT
|
|
rhyang
climber
SJC
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2010 - 02:33pm PT
|
Yum yum !
|
|
Bschmitz
Ice climber
mountain view
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2010 - 03:06pm PT
|
No way does Lake Willoughby beat out MT or WY. Glacier Park, Yellowstone, Cooke City, Hyalite, Cody, Clarks Fork, Rosebud all are stacked. Mike M...thats a bad shot of the dutch charlie I think I might have better one that will really make them grin floating around somewhere on my computer.
I mean we are talking about ice climbing right? Routes like Mean green, California Ice, Winter Dance, broken hearts, Ovissight, Synder lake anything, silver cord, dancing with the hippo and south of the summit are all world class. Just my two cents.
|
|
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2010 - 04:50pm PT
|
I would love to see it when it is fat. I took some shots from the other rim of the canyon while my brothers were climbing LT and and it is hard to Zoom in enough to get much detail with your standard digital.
|
|
Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2010 - 06:08pm PT
|
Routes like Mean green, California Ice, Winter Dance, broken hearts, Ovissight, Synder lake anything, silver cord, dancing with the hippo and south of the summit are all world class.
They are, for sure.
But, that list especially is a "best of" separated by a gob of miles and terrain. Where as, the Lake Willoughby stuff is stacked one right next to each other.
I mean, where can you get that kind of milage from the same car park?
Can't really see doing Broken Hearts and California Ice in the same day...! Well, maybe some folks could, but, probably not in daylight for many...(and not me, geez, Cali ice alone was 12 hours car-to-car for me, Broken Hearts quite a bit quicker).
Its all good. For shear volume and route density, the Northeast is hard to beat. For gettin' out there...well...I mean come on, Cody and/or the Beartooths? Pretty neat.
Brian in SLC
(who's climbed a few on that list, as well as at Lake Willoughby).
|
|
Decko
Trad climber
Colorado
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2010 - 06:09pm PT
|
SHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
Come on, let them muck about how great Willoby is, and I'm sure it is.
But I LOVE that there are no crowds in Cody, or no trail and not a soul around on Leaning Tree......
QUIET PLEASE........................
Don't want it looking like Ouray up there..........
|
|
Edge
Trad climber
New Durham, NH
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2010 - 06:50pm PT
|
I think, undoubtedly, that Willoughby has the highest concentration of high quality ice climbs anywhere. I personally don't know of anyplace else that has so many long routes in so confined an area. Frankenstein is similar, but not as long and sustained.
That fact, however, seals Willoughby's own fate. The place is easily accessible, and once someone has a route in mind, then they seem to develop blinders and line up like lemmings in reverse, ready to throw themselves up the cliff.
It wasn't always like that , nor was it always like that on the Black Dike, but if you want a route to yourself and a wilderness experience, then it is hard to beat some of the western areas mentioned up-thread. Nothing disperses the punters more than a 3 hour approach.
I find it hard to enjoy New England ice lately. If you are fortunate enough to climb mid-week, which is all I do now, then you may avoid the crowds but most routes are beat to death. Of course there are still instances when all the conditions are in alignment, but it rare.
|
|
pip the dog
Mountain climber
planet dogboy
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2010 - 07:58pm PT
|
i myself much agree with tradmanclimbs, mike m, and brian from slc -- even though at first read they all seem to disagree with one another.
tradmanclimbs is right: willoughby has an absolute sh!tload of fine, fat, and reliable ice -- most all within view of your ride. sweet.
mike m is right: MT has way more ice, and much of it on better and longer lines. but then, you gotta walk/ski some to get to the best of it. ok, often a lot -- a _whole_ lot.
brian from slc is most right: he quick saw both the up and down sides of both.
~~~
i really like tradmanclimbs' photo "Threading off the Last Gent" -- as it quick captures something close to the very heart of the game, yet never seen on magazine covers or posters. (not that i myself have ever had to rap off ice in the dark, or anything...)
i also much agree with Donini:
> Great climbing! But that New England damp cold... brrrrr!
yeah, all those excellent photos of willoughby looking all sunny (yet still fat and "in") seem kind of false advertising to me -- unless my youth up that way was a massive metrological aberration. (though i wouldn't be entirely surprised to learn it was, as i am a known storm attractor.) but i do visit up that way quite often and the weather there continues to seem almost always wet foggy tsunamis blowing directly up my skinny droopy butt.
OTOH, the chances of becoming quick extinct via an avi blowout are way less in _most_ of new england relative to _most_ all of her MT/WY alternatives.
~~~
so, all this considered... i simply dunno.
only took me 231 words to realize i simply dunno. holy sh!t -- i am becoming succinct! (nah, knott even remotely)
~~~
i myself have bet my remaining days on the MT variant. but then i accumulate more frequent flyer miles than the crew of the space shuttle trying to pay for my 'home' there - the one i can't afford to live in while working locally.
though with all those frequent crier miles, i do get to fall off of most anything i want. hell, i once did an ice FA in OHIO! 43 vertical feet of absolutely unrelenting, unprotected WI4 -- so there! (and quick got arrested for it; though soon released as the local stiffs couldn't figure out any local law that might apply.)
^,,^
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2010 - 09:46pm PT
|
Some cool stuff by everyone. I still have not had too many picked out experiences at the lake. Frankenstine is a zoo and everything is a peg board but with the exeption of Crazy diamond and renom I have never had a real picked out climb at the lake. Also only waited in line once there. lots of stuff to do. Also never been there on a weekend. Mt Hoar looks increadible as well on the other side of the lake. never been over there but looks like some long climbs. Must give it a try next year if the shoulder ever heals.....
|
|
Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
|
|
|
Mar 31, 2010 - 11:39pm PT
|
Lake Willoughby, The Tablets (I think) Feb. 2010
It is a great place, BUT I might put Cody above it given the long and varied routes.
IFMGA Guides, Art Mooney and Marc Chauvin on 20 below Zero Gully, WI 4
Dale Remsberg, Marc Chauvin, Art Mooney, Lake Willoughby, Feb, 2010
Doug
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2010 - 08:09am PT
|
If you want long and varried routs. Try Called on Account of Rains IV5+,
Le promanade IV5+, Pipe Dreams IV WI6X M6, Shaker Hiegts, Three Musketeers IV m6+ WI 5+ Etc. etc.etc...
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2010 - 08:39am PT
|
The rock is Choss and not many protection opertunitys.
|
|
Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
|
|
There is, however, very good rock just around the corner on Mt. Wheeler. It is hidden from view from the ice climbing venues (it is on the far side of Mt. Hor) and has a number of single and multi-pitch quality rock routes.
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2010 - 12:09pm PT
|
Shhhhh... Top Secret!
Actruall you can see Pisgha from the top of The Great Corner so you must be able to see wheeler from up high on the ice climbs.
|
|
slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
|
|
That's right- no rock climbing in VT. NONE.
|
|
Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
|
|
Tradman--Top secret, except for the fact that it is included in Stewart Greens New England guidebook!!!!
|
|
Mees
climber
|
|
Perhaps the best sport ice climbing area in the 48 I guess, you will have to see what Ouray has to say... I wouldn't even begin to compare Cody to this place, totally different deal.
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2010 - 05:37pm PT
|
Ya, he just put one route in there and graded it 11c instead of 10c so that keeps the rif raff away... actually I wish i could get my hands on the topo as i only know 10 or so routs out of over 100. I think you need to be a hot chick to get that topo..
|
|
Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
|
|
Tradman. Is the corner only 10c? When we did it eons ago (and never thought it was the FA--I don't know where Stewart got that one from)my free climbing efforts got totally shut-down in the upper section where the rock steepened, the crack thinned down drastically and footholds seemed to disappear on the right wall, so I resorted to a few pins of aid(yeah, pins--it was the '60s). For a long time I was talking to Webster about the climb and going back with him as rope gun to try to free it. We never got around to it and he eventually went over there with Sue and they did do it free , but I recall that he graded it 11b or c--which made me feel a bit better about my failure(though 10c was probably above my head at that time anyway--probably still is).I, too, would love to see the topo, I've never been up there since and I'd enjoy climbing there again--but, unfortunately, I'm definitely not a "hot chick".
|
|
slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
|
|
oh come one Al- your a kinda hot chick ! I actually did this route quite a while ago. For sure 10++ HA HA. Ed called great Corner route ?
|
|
Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
|
|
slabbo/John: You were able to cram your not so dainty digits into that upper seam---I'm impressed!!!! Alan
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2010 - 07:15pm PT
|
I think it may have gotten beat out a bit more by pins. It feels real hard thougho but i can't climb 5.11 and the boys up there call it 10c.
Huh???? Compared to the Lake Ourey is a mouse fart. I didn't get to climb ice there as it was too late in the season. I did get a decent look at it. The ice was still there but it was all rotten. Anyways it looked exactly like a single pitch sport park.
|
|
slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
|
|
Ya thats' me - dainty digits. A bit lumpy now though
|
|
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
|
Did you guys hear about that new Yellowstone Testpiece?
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2010 - 07:22am PT
|
Looks kind of short ;)
|
|
ExtraBlue
Ice climber
the ford VT
|
|
Got to say I am kind of disappointed with all the Western folks who jump to claim that no one anywhere East of them has better ice.
Those easy ice first "pitches" of cali ice are WI1, I know I hiked up them. Furthermore until two years ago Hyalite was climbable for only 2-3 months of the year. (THANK YOU JOJO AND SWMCC!!!!) Because you couldn't get up the road the rest of the time, Paradise valley climbs are just as bad to get too, and Cody while it has freaking amazing climbs is in the middle of no where. So yes there are amazing climbs out west but half the adventure of them is getting to the trail head. (Also lets face it, if all you want to judge an area on is difficulty of ice and length then nothing in the lower 48 holds a torch to Alaska.)
Guys, guess what there is amazing ice in the east. And you don't need to spend a day on the approach. Look at Alpinist's "Go East" Article, and stop the new jerk reactions that West is best.
|
|
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
|
Extrablue, I think that 38 of the first 40 posts on this site were about how Willoughby was the "best". I for one think it looks great, but there is good stuff is out west also and to say one is better than the other seems kind of trivial.
|
|
Mees
climber
|
|
Personally I don't care how much you wanna compare one area to the next it's pointless. I can assure you that if you enjoy ice climbing, and you find yourself in the Southfork valley you won't be thinking you are nowhere. You will probably wish you were somewhere else though considering the spanking it gives people who aren't ready for that type of experience.. I'll humor you though, nowhere means you are a few hours from the Beartooths range, the bighorn range, the tetons,the winds etc, devils' tower, fremont canyon all the sport areas etc.... Let's head to Vermont to go climbing so we can be "somewhere" whatever that means. That's some funny sh#t right there, thanks for the laughs dude.
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2010 - 08:00am PT
|
I agree that there is no Best area or best climb. There are however standouts that are well worth the airfare, travel time and climbing time. Lake Willoughby is without a doubt one of those and a few of the long climbs that you posted from Wyo also fit that catagory.
Initialy this thread was an attempt to keep a climbing thread on the front page hence the bait in the title ;) Still did not work. the Repug thread will most likly hit 20,000 posts before the end of the week...
Alan, I have an old 1981 Mountain Magazine with a photo of Ed on the great corner claiming the FFA @ 11a
So Ed thought it was midd 11 at the time but reported it at 11a to the raggs being the sandbag artists that he is ;) The locals fine sandbag artists as well downrated it to 10c. there you have it :)
|
|
slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
|
|
Exactly Trad- 10+ just like Airation !
|
|
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
|
Tradman, bump for a climbing thread. The best ice for me this week was right above town where there was still some pillars hanging around on Thursday that I got to play on after work. Not bad considering the nearly 80 degree temps of last week.
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2010 - 02:01pm PT
|
Sweet. nothing left here unless you go up to Mt washington. Rock climbing the last 2 days and plan on going again in a few min. ;)
|
|
Paulina
Trad climber
|
|
|
Oct 11, 2010 - 11:28am PT
|
Nice going!
As the winter approaches, I realize I will miss the NE ice badly. Where are the icy stomping grounds near(ish) Seattle?
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2010 - 03:58pm PT
|
Good, but not the best. Not enough variety and, by the way, it's cooooold!
|
|
divad
Trad climber
wmass
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2010 - 04:27pm PT
|
by the way, it's cooooold!
How the hell do you think the water turns to ice?
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2010 - 04:31pm PT
|
Gee....you're pretty smart, I'll have to remember that quaint little relationship between water and temperature. My point is that temperatures in the NE feel (to me) to be on the order of 20 degrees colder than in the West- humidity, cloudy skies, wind etc.
|
|
divad
Trad climber
wmass
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2010 - 04:36pm PT
|
That's why we're so much tougher here. :)
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2010 - 04:38pm PT
|
I'll be the last person to debate that point.
|
|
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2011 - 04:15am PT
|
Things are looking good in Yellowstone, how are things looking out east.
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2011 - 08:24am PT
|
We had an early tease in late Otober. The Dike on cannon went as well as a b unch of stuff up on Mt washington. Then we had a warm spell. Rock climbed yesterday and there was ice in the shade so i assume stuff up high on Washington is in again.
BTW one of the 2 pins in the great corner fell out a week or so ago. do not know if randy has had a chance to replace it yet?
|
|
JohnnyG
climber
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2013 - 10:20pm PT
|
Bump for Willougby...I got to go there for the first time this week. The place is stacked.
|
|
TREED
Trad climber
Gunks
|
|
|
Jan 24, 2013 - 11:12pm PT
|
Best in the east. Cody has it beat though.
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 08:08pm PT
|
last sunday....
|
|
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
|
|
May 28, 2014 - 12:28am PT
|
600 feet of ice still looking pretty fat on May 25th. Anything left out east? Probably saw about 15 flows still looking good this weekend.
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2014 - 06:57am PT
|
We are done. see that big crack accross the bottom of your photo....
|
|
anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
|
|
|
May 28, 2014 - 07:13am PT
|
is it too early to be thinking about ice?
it's so cold up here it might as well be november
|
|
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
|
|
May 28, 2014 - 09:42am PT
|
Trad I think there are two cracks in it, but doesn't look like it is going to fall off soon. Major water shooting out the side. Getting up there may be the major problem though. I did see quite a few flows that looked in good shape though.
|
|
Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
|
|
|
May 28, 2014 - 09:48am PT
|
Bump for ice!
|
|
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
|
|
May 28, 2014 - 10:09am PT
|
This flow in the West fork of Rock Creek looked to still be in good shape. Wishing I had brought the tools instead of just the boards. Definitely could have done some climbing.
|
|
fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
|
|
|
May 28, 2014 - 10:26am PT
|
Mike M, where is that first picture from?
|
|
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
|
|
May 28, 2014 - 11:38am PT
|
Beartooths in MT on Sunday
|
|
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
|
|
Sep 13, 2017 - 09:22pm PT
|
Little ice bump from back n the day. Things are starting to change.
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Sep 13, 2017 - 09:29pm PT
|
Yikes...it's not even Rocktober yet....winter will come soon enough. I'll keep track of it via the internet while enjoying the Patagonia summer.
|
|
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
|
|
Sep 14, 2017 - 02:52pm PT
|
Winter can never come soon enough.
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Sep 14, 2017 - 03:46pm PT
|
Mike...I am so over winter. Never liked the short days and looong nights. I've reached an age where I am trying to maximize daylight hours and the only way to do that is to cross the equator twice a year.
Willoughby is really cool....err, cold. Went there once, we were the only people there. Great, continuous climbing!
|
|
ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
|
|
|
Sep 14, 2017 - 04:13pm PT
|
Nipigon is better.
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2017 - 04:27pm PT
|
interesting 1st pitch of the Gent last winter. thin layer of ice with an inch of air behind it. I was way the eff out there before I finally got a brassie in. what you don't see in the pitch is that there is an 80ft cliff right before the start of the climb that you traverse out over. P 3 was fat though :)
Canadians on the variation to our right the skinny pillar right behind them is Le Promenade which is kind of scary and have only followed it. behind that is the mixed Reign Of Terror which in a moment of delusion I actually led once ;)
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Sep 14, 2017 - 10:26pm PT
|
to go with Clint's story posted above
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Sep 14, 2017 - 10:41pm PT
|
there are other places in the Northeast... I haven't heard much news about this area recently.
not in the Lower 48, however, and even colder than Vermont...
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 15, 2017 - 03:08am PT
|
the 1st pitch of Called last winter origionaly done in two pitches this is now done in one Loooong Steeep Pitch. There are 2 more long pitches above this photo that one can not see from this angle as they are in dihedrals
|
|
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
|
|
Sep 15, 2017 - 08:00am PT
|
Jim the cold is the only thing that gets the people out of the mountains in the front range. I do really like the solitude when it is cold. Or working so hard on a below zero day that you have stripped down to just a shirt with no gloves or hat. Sadly I don't have much to add to this thread living in the front range. I guess I am going to have to put on my big boy pants and go up and scratch around in the park this winter. Got some new 70m 6.9 mil double ropes that should make the trek in there a lot better. Definitely planning a trip to Cody for around a week somewhere around the 1st of the year. Anyone interested? Nick? I know Donini is going to want to fly back from Patagonia for that one. Hell well even camp.
|
|
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
|
|
Nov 22, 2017 - 09:34pm PT
|
|
|
| Messages 1 - 113 of total 113 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!