The Guide Book Problem

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Messages 1 - 7 of total 7 in this topic
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 24, 2005 - 02:56am PT
refered to in the "most influential articles" thread, Steelmnkey posted the text from Ascent, v2, n2, July 1974

http://www.usenews2.org/group/rec.climbing/article-415577.html

good reading.
wildone

climber
right near the beach, boyeee (lord have mercy)
Oct 24, 2005 - 03:23pm PT
A lot of good stuff there Ed. Thanks.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
Oct 24, 2005 - 03:47pm PT
captures the 'to and fro' of whether to publish (relate) new climbs or keep them to yourself.

thx for the link
Nate D

Trad climber
San Francisco
Oct 24, 2005 - 04:35pm PT
Thanks Ed. It's a fairly comprehensive article, and still very relevant.

The following, however, unfortunately no longer rings very true, IMHO:

"Today most people are climbing better and cleaner than they did a few years ago, with a finer appreciation of the nuances of style than anyone possessed in the pioneering periods of American mountaineering." (That was 1974.)


Interestingly, the article doesn't mention the motivation of some climbers to create guides or topos in order to document their lines so as to "protect" them from encroachment/bolting by other parties. I suppose this is a more contemporary matter.
Rhodo-Router

Trad climber
Otto, NC
Oct 25, 2005 - 03:58am PT
That's kind of a funny scenario. I climb a lot of obscure stuff around where I live, rarely drill, never 'report' routes, and it's not hard to imagine someone bosching their way up one of these things in the future. Paradoxically, it gives me the urge to at least leave something that indicates the line has been climbed, so it won't get fully desecrated later. But that makes me part of the problem too...
Nate D

Trad climber
San Francisco
Oct 25, 2005 - 02:08pm PT
Yes, obscure areas with little or no climbing community and lots of secrets typically make fine breeding grounds for this scenario.
Rhodo-Router

Trad climber
Otto, NC
Oct 25, 2005 - 03:43pm PT
To call them 'secrets' might exaggerate the intention...more like lack of interest.
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